The hub of the Aichi region, Nagoya is Japan's fourth-largest city after Tokyo, Yokohama and Osaka and one of the nation's major economic centers. In terms of manufacturing, as home to automaking giants Toyota, Honda, Mitsubishi Motors, Nagoya is to Japan what Detroit is to the United States — which, along with having been completely flattened during World War II, also explains why it's not one of Japan's top tourist draws and most tourists just zip through on the bullet train on their way between Tokyo and Kyoto. But if you do decide to stick around, there are plenty of car-related attractions, a restored castle, an ancient shrine and surprisingly happening nightlife.

Now a modern metropolis, Nagoya gets its name from an old manor called Nagono which was built in the area in the 12th century. The manor prospered for two hundred years, and people began to refer to the area by the manor's name. Over time, the pronunciation of the Chinese characters in the name "Nagono" shifted to "Nagoya", by which the city is now known.

Three famous local figures later helped to put Nagoya firmly on the map of Japan. Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu all hailed from around Nagoya, and all shared the ambitious goal of unifying Japan under one government. Tokugawa finally succeeded in 1603 after winning in the Battle of Sekigahara, and established the Tokugawa Shogunate, which would rule Japan for the next 250 years.

Soon after uniting the country, Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered the construction of Nagoya Castle for his son. He then ordered the people of nearby Kiyosu (on the outskirts of Nagoya) to move to the area around the castle, and a town soon came into being. Cotton, ceramics and lumber were the main industries sustaining the town as it grew into a small city.

Following Japan's opening to the world during the Meiji era, Nagoya rapidly industrialized and established transportation links with the rest of Japan that would allow it to easily export its goods. During World War I, Nagoya became known for its foundries as well as its machinery and heavy industry exports, which would continue to grow throughout the 1930s.

The 1920s marked the beginnings of the automotive industry in Nagoya, which continues in importance to the current day. At the heart of the industry is the Toyota Motor Corporation. Starting from humble beginnings as a loom-making company, Toyota entered into the automobile business in the 1930s. It now stands as the world's largest automaker, and continues to dominate the local economy along with the car-making giants Honda and Mitsubishi.

During World War II, much of Nagoya's manufacturing infrastructure turned to the production of military goods, making it a prime target for bombing raids. Almost 25% of the city was destroyed during the war, with almost half the population fleeing to the countryside to avoid the attacks.

The end of the war marked a new start for Nagoya. Car-friendly wide streets and boulevards were bulldozed through the rubble of war, making for the city of today.

Nagoya now ranks as one of the nation's economic powerhouses, and is home to the head offices of Toyota Motor Corporation, Brother Industries, Daido Steel, Makita, Denso Corporation, INAX, Suzuki Motor, Honda Motor, Noritake, NGK Insulators, Olympus Optical, Yamaha and many others. Unlike other parts of Japan, which borrowed heavily for elaborate and expensive public works projects in the bubble years of the 1980s, ketchi (cheap) Nagoya held to a pay-as-you-go philosophy, and has not been as adversely affected by the post-bubble recession as other major centres.

The booming economy has also brought many foreigners to the area, and the region now hosts a thriving community of Japanese-descent Brazilian immigrants, who help to keep the wheels of the local economy spinning. With its strong economy and growing population, Nagoya is a city to watch in the coming years.

Nagoya's climate varies greatly throughout the year, with average temperatures ranging from a low of 4°C (39.2°F) in January to a high of 27°C (80.6°F) in August. The city is known for its incredibly hot and humid summers like many cities in Japan, with high temperatures routinely surpassing 30°C (86°F)in August, so those with an aversion to heat would be better off visiting in the milder temperatures of the spring or autumn.

If you happen to arrive in Japan at Osaka's Kansai International Airport, Nagoya can be reached in no less than two hours by taking the Haruka limited express train to Shin-Osaka station, then changing to the Tokaido Shinkansen.

A small number of air flights operate daily from Tokyo's Narita Airport to Centrair Airport, for the benefit of international passengers. Otherwise, Nagoya is no less than three hours away by taking the Narita Express limited express train to Tokyo's Shinagawa station, then changing to the Tokaido Shinkansen.

Chubu Centrair International Airport (中部国際空港 Chūbu Kokusai Kūkō), Japan's third major international gateway, is on an artificial island 30 minutes south from the center of town. Facilities include two hotels, restaurants, a shopping concourse, and an onsen spa with views of the runways. Centrair opened in 2005, and this airport replaced the preexisting Nagoya airport, also taking over its IATA code NGO.

The best way of connecting between Centrair Airport and central Nagoya is the Meitetsu Airport Line. The fastest trains are called "μSKY" (myuu-sukai) and depart for Nagoya every 30 minutes. The journey takes 28 minutes at a cost of ¥1200: the ¥850 regular fare plus the mandatory ¥350 first class charge, also called the μticket (ミューチケット myuu-chiketto). Only first class cars are available on "μSKY" trains. Slower Limited Express trains, also operating every 30 minutes, offer both first class (reserved) and ordinary class (non-reserved) seating and take 37 minutes for the run to Nagoya. Note that Meitetsu trains are not free for JR Railpass riders.

Buses run from Centrair Airport and several destinations within Nagoya: the Nagoya Tokyu Hotel (5 minute walk from Sakae subway station), Nagoya Kanko Hotel (2 minute walk from Fushimi subway station) and the intersection between Nishiki Dori and Hommachi Dori, near the Circle K convenience store (also a 2 minute walk from the Fushimi subway station). The trip takes approximately one hour and costs ¥1000. Note that there are only eight round-trip buses per day, and the buses do not serve the main Nagoya train station.

Tsubame Airport Limousine offers private van service between Nagoya and Centrair Airport. The one-way cost is about ¥13,400 per vehicle. Vans can seat up to seven passengers, so a party of seven would pay ¥1,910 per person.

Slightly more expensive than the van is a taxi... one hailed directly by yourself is extremely expensive. As a rule of thumb, a trip to Nagoya station will run approximately ¥15,000-16,000.

If you wish to sacrifice travel speed for savings, you can take advantage of the Puratto Kodama Ticket (ぷらっとこだまエコノミープラン Puratto Kodama Economi Puran) (in Japanese), which offers a discount for Kodama services if you purchase at least one day in advance. You get a reserved seat and a coupon for a free drink (including beer) which can be redeemed at a "Kiosk" convenience counter inside the station. With this ticket a trip to Nagoya costs ¥7900 from Tokyo (3 hours; 2 trains per hour), ¥4100 from Kyoto (1 hour; 1 train per hour) and ¥4200 from Shin-Osaka (1 1/4 hours; 1 train per hour). A few early-morning Kodama trains cannot be used with this ticket.

Nagoya also serves as the terminal point for the hourly Wide View Shinano, a limited express train that runs from the mountain resort towns of Nagano and Matsumoto. Nagoya is reached in 3 hours and 2 hours, respectively.

Local trains from Tokyo take about 6 hours at a cost of ¥6090, requiring several train changes along the way. However, trips on local trains are more valuable if you purchase and use a Seishun 18 Ticket during the valid time period: as low as ¥2300 per person if five people travel together. Otherwise, consider using a bus starting from ¥5000, or step up to the bullet train for ¥7900 using the Puratto Kodama Ticket.

Remember that the Japan Rail Pass covers all journeys described above, EXCEPT for Nozomi trains.

Nagoya is also served by the Meitetsu (名鉄） and Kintetsu (近鉄） private railways. If coming to Nagoya from Osaka, a travel option that comes cheaper than the Shinkansen is a Kintetsu limited express service called the Urban Liner (アーバンライナー), which runs out of Namba station. The Urban Liner departs at 0 and 30 minutes past the hour, covering the journey in as little as two hours, but at a cost of ¥4150 each way. (The shinkansen, by comparison, makes the run from Shin-Osaka to Nagoya in under an hour for ¥5670). Japan Rail Passes are not valid for the Urban Liner.

As Nagoya is a major city, there are many day and overnight buses which run between Nagoya and other locations throughout Japan, which can be a cheaper alternative than the shinkansen or local trains.

From Tokyo, bus runs to Nagoya are frequent, using the Tomei Expressway along the southern coast or the Chuo Expressway through the central part of the country. Trips take anywhere from 5 to 9 hours depending on the route and stops. Some of the faster, nonstop daytime runs utilize the Shin-Tomei Expressway, a new highway that runs parallel to the existing Tomei Expressway.

The following are among the major bus services available between Tokyo and Nagoya: (Current as of September, 2012)

Discount bus operator Willer Express runs daytime and overnight buses with a variety of seating options. Bus journeys can be booked online in English, and Willer's Japan Bus Pass is valid on all of their routes with some exceptions.

Buses from Tokyo leave from Willer's own bus terminal, located west of Shinjuku Station in the Sumitomo Building. Some buses also leave directly from Shinjuku Station's West exit, Tokyo Station - Yaesu-Chuo Exit, Tokyo Disneyland - Goofy Car Park, Hamamatsucho Station and Yokohama Station. Buses discharge in Nagoya at the Taiko exit in front of the BIC Camera store.

Willer's overnight one-way fares to/from Tokyo start from approximately ¥3000 for overnight trips in standard seats up to ¥5300 in canopy seats with advanced purchase. Daytime bus fares start from ¥3000. Fares are typically higher on weekends and holidays.

JR Bus(Japanese Website) is also a major operator on the Tokyo-Nagoya route. The drawback is that you cannot make online reservations in English, but you can make reservations in train stations at the same "Midori-no-Madoguchi" ticket windows used to reserve seats on trains.

JR Buses depart from Tokyo Station - Yaesu Exit (八重洲口) and the JR Highway Bus Terminal (JR高速バスターミナル) located adjacent to Yoyogi Station on the Yamanote Line (one stop south of Shinjuku).

JR Bus offers, in order of comfort and price, Seishun (youth) buses with 2x2 seating configurations and Standard buses with individual seats arranged 1x1x1. Some buses offer more spacious Super Seats and Premium Seats which incur an additional surcharge of ¥600 and ¥1200, respectively.

JR Bus' overnight one-way fares to/from Tokyo start from approximately ¥2350 for overnight trips in Seishun buses up to ¥3900 for standard buses with advanced purchase. Daytime bus fares start from ¥2280. Fares are typically higher on weekends and holidays.

Japan Rail Passes (for trains) used to be valid on this and other JR highway bus routes, but as of April 2013 this has been discontinued.

Meitetsu is a major transit operator located in Nagoya, operating long distance buses throughout Japan's major cities. Meitetsu runs daytime and overnight buses between Shinjuku and Nagoya's Meitetsu Bus Center in conjunction with Keio Bus. Fares start from ¥3500 one way.

The ferry terminal is located south of Noseki stn (野跡駅) on the JR Aonami line (あおなみ線 Aonami-sen）. Get off at the station and board a city bus bound for Feri futo (フェリーふ頭) bus stop (takes 7 to 10 mins). Shuttle bus also available from the downtown Meitetsu Bus Center (名鉄バスセンター） next to Nagoya Station. Bus departs from 4F, platform 2 at 5:20PM and arrives at the ferry terminal at around 5:55PM. For further details, check out the ferry's website.

Nagoya is a big automotive industry center, and it shows. The street network is extensive and even downtown locations can be easily reached by car. On the downside, trains and subways are less convenient than in Tokyo or Kansai, and more expensive. For those travelling with a JR Rail Pass, note that the train network doesn't have many stations in the city and you'll probably find yourself using the bus or subway a lot, something your pass won't cover.

The blue Tsurumai Line (鶴舞線) connects Fushimi and Osu Kannon, then goes south.

Subways run every several minutes between about 5:30AM until about 12:30AM. Fares range from ¥200 to ¥320. One day passes can be bought for ¥600 (bus), ¥740 (subway), and ¥850 (bus & subway).

On Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays you can also take advantage of the cheaper Donichi-Eco-Kippu (ドニチエコきっぷ） one-day subway ticket which offers unlimited subway travel for ¥600. Please note that this pass is often not available from subway ticket machines and may have to be purchased in person from a station employee at the ticket gate.

City transportation one day passes also offer discounted entry at various attractions in Nagoya, including Nagoya Castle and the Toyota Museum.

Wifi access is available in most subway stations. More information about public transportation in Nagoya can be found on the official website of the Nagoya Transportation Bureau.

Taxis are a viable option in this car city, especially as the basic fee is only ¥480 (compared to ¥710 in Tokyo or Yokohama). The catch is that the basic fee only takes you 1.3 km compared to 2 km in most other parts of Japan. But for shorter distances within the city, a taxi is not only much more convenient than descending to those dark unappealing subway stations, but (from 2 persons) also as cheap as the subway.

Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology (トヨタ産業技術記念館 Toyota-sangyō-gijutsu-kinenkan), 4-1-35 Noritake Shinmachi, Nishi-ku (3 minute walk from Meitetsu Sako Stn (Nagoya line), 10-minute walk from exit 2, Subway: Kamejima Station (Higashiyama Line)), ☎+81-52-551-6115. Tu-Su 9:30AM-5PM (Last admission 4:30PM), (restaurant open until 9PM), Closed M, (T if M is a holiday), New Years' holidays. Built on the site of one of Toyota's original loom factories, this museum tells the story of the Toyota corporation, from its beginnings as an industrial loom manufacturer to its transformation into one of the world's largest car manufacturers. Includes large loom machinery and car display halls as well as a hands-on "Technoland" with interactive science exhibits. Museum also includes a library, video library with personal viewing booths, restaurant, cafe, and gift shop. Displays, brochures, and audioguides available in English and several other languages. Barrier-free access for disabled visitors. FREESPOT Wi-Fi access available.Adults ¥500, Jr. & Sr. high school students: ¥300, Elem. School Students: ¥200.

Nagoya Castle (名古屋城 Nagoya-jō) (Subway: Shiyakusho Stn (Meijo line). 5 min. walk from exit 7.), ☎+81-52-231-1700. Open daily 9:00-4:30PM. Closed Dec 29-Jan 1. Trumpeted as a famous landmark, particularly the two golden carp (金の鯱 kin-no-shachi) on the roof. The original castle was home to Oda Nobunaga, one of Japan's famous warlords. Largely destroyed during the war, the current castle is a concrete replica of the original, and was completed in 1959. The Castle houses an interesting museum (no flash photography on 1st floor), observation deck, and surrounding gardens. Free English tours with volunteer English speaking Japanese guides are sometimes available.Adults: ¥500, Jr. high school students and younger: free.

Atsuta Shrine (熱田神宮 Atsuta Jingū) (Jingūmae station). This shrine houses the sacred Kusanagi no mitsurugi (草薙神剣) sword, one of the three Imperial regalia of Japan — but unfortunately nobody but the emperor and a few high priests get to see it. There are some 4,400 other artifacts on the grounds though and the shrine hosts some 70 festivals every year.

Shirotori Garden (白鳥庭園, Shirotori Teien) (Jingūnishi station, located relatively near Atsuta Shrine). In this Japanese garden you can see and feed koi fish in large ponds, take a look at the tea ceremony house, and also view the beautiful waterfall. On spring the plum trees bloom beautifully and on autumn you can enjoy the night illumination.¥300, middle-schoolers and younger: free.

Toyota Automobile Museum (トヨタ博物館 Toyota Hakubutsukan) (Take the Higashiyama subway line to Fujigaoka, then take the Linimo line to Geidei-dori), ☎+81-56-163-5155. 9:30-5PM, closed M and holidays. Large collection of cars from many countries and manufacturers, up until about 1980. About 1/4 of the collection is dedicated to post-war Japanese cars. Restaurant on-site.¥1000.

Nagoya/Boston Museum of Fine Arts (名古屋ボストン美術館 Nagoya-bosuton-bijutsukan), 1-1-1 Kanayama-cho, Naka-ku (next to Kanayama station), ☎+81-52-684-0786. Tu-F 10AM-7PM, Sa, Sun, Hols 10AM-5PM Closed M. Like any world-class art museum, the MFA in Boston, USA has far more in its archives than it can reasonably display. This sister institution is one way to make the most of the extensive collection.Student / Adult admission: ¥300/400 for the general collection, ¥900/1200 for special exhibits.

Nittai-ji Temple (覚王山日泰寺, kakuōzan nittai-ji), nittai-ji, 1-1 Hōhōchō, Chikusa-ku, ☎+81-52-751-2121. Among the 165,000 square meters of temple grounds is the 15 meter Gandhara-style Taian Pagoda, which houses relics of the Buddha that were presented to Japan by the king of Thailand.

Tōgan-ji Temple (桃巌寺) (Motoyama stn. (Higashiyama, Meijo lines)). Dating back to the 16th century, this temple features a statue of the seated Buddha and has many ties to Hindu religion, particularly a temple honoring the Goddess Saraswati, who is honored in a Benzaiten Festival every May 7–8. Toganji also contains a huge wood block said to purge past sins if touched with one hand.

Arako Kannon Temple (荒子観音), Arako-cho, Nakagawa-ku (SE of Takabata subway station (Higashiyama line). Walk S from the major crossroads with Yagumo-dori. Follow the sign to reach the temple, which is a few hundred meters down the street, on the S side.), ☎+81-52-361-1778. This small temple is the oldest building in Nagoya, with original construction on the site dating from the Heian Period (8th century). Despite several fires which destroyed older portions of the temple, the Tahoto pagoda on site remains intact after 472 years.

Ōsu Kannon Temple (大須観音), 21-47 Osu 2-chome, Naka-ku (S of Osu Kannon subway stn. (Tsurumai line), exit 2), ☎+81-52-231-6525. Founded in the Kamakura era (1192-1333), this temple was moved to its current location by Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1612. The present main temple on the site was reconstructed in 1970. Check out the main hall or buy an お守り (omamori) charm in the gift shop for good luck. The grounds in front of the temple are host to a small flea market twice every month.

Nagoya TV Tower (名古屋テレビ塔 Nagoya-terebi-tō), Hisaya-ōdōri kōen, Naka-ku (Subway: Hisaya Odori Station (Meijo line/Sakura-dori line)), ☎+81-52-971-8546, fax: +81-52-961-0561. Daily 10:00-9PM. Standing 180 meters tall, the Nagoya TV Tower is Japan's oldest - predating even the Tokyo Tower. Take an elevator to the 100m-high sky balcony for great views of Hisaya-odori park and Sakae. Under the tower is a small terrace with tables and a number of small food stands.Adults: ¥500, Children ¥250.

Hisaya-Odori Park (久屋大通公園, hisaya-ōdōri kōen) (Sakae or Hisaya-Odori subway exits.). Nice trees and fountains, Nagoya TV Tower observation deck. On weekend afternoons and evenings, local musicians set up in and around the park and strut their stuff for the passers-by.

Ride the gold and white Nagoya Sightseeing Bus Me-Guru past many of the city's main attractions. Operates T-Su. Offers hop-on-hop-off hourly service from 9:30AM-5:30PM T-F, and every half hour on Sa-Su. Closed M, year-end holidays. Daypass: Adults ¥500, Children ¥250. (includes discount on featured attractions). Single ride: adults ¥200, children ¥100. Daypasses may be purchased getting on the bus. 1-day transport passes also accepted.

Catch a traditional Japanese Noh play at the Nagoya Noh Theatre. (Subway: Shiyakusho stn.)

Go for a jog (or a walk) around beautiful Meijo Park (名城公園 Meijo Koen), one of Nagoya's largest green spaces, and take in the great view of Nagoya Castle (Subway: Meijo-Koen station, Meijo line). Showers and lockers available.

Higashiyama Park (東山公園 Higashiyama-koen). (Higashiyama-koen station). Features a zoo, conservatory, monorail, roller coasters, "sky tower" and a great deal of open space.

Nagoya Sumo Tournament (大相撲名古屋場所 Oo-sumou-Nagoya-bashou), Aichi Prefectural Gymnasium, 1-1 Ninomaru, Naka-ku (A short walk from Shiyakusho stn. (Meijo Line)), ☎+81-52-221-0737, fax: +81-52-221-0739. 15 days mid-July. Watch the big boys of Japanese sumo battle it out in Nagoya. An annual tradition. Tickets are generally available at the counter unless it is the first or last day. Ticket prices start at ¥3,200 and up. The cheapest seats are fine for first-time sumo watchers and are not much worse than the ¥4,700 seats.

World Cosplay Summit (世界コスプレサミット Sekai-kosupure-samitto (World Cosplay Summit)) (Parade: Osu Kannon (Tsurumai line) exit 1, World Cosplay Championship: Oasis 21, Sakae stn. exit 4A.). An otaku's dream come true. Watch as fans of Japanese animation from around the world dress up as their favorite anime characters and parade around the streets of Nagoya. The Summit culminates with the World Cosplay Championship (世界コスプレチャンピオンシップ Sekai-kosupure-championshippu) pitting teams from a number of countries as they show off their costumes and perform stage shows in tribute to their favorite Japanimation characters. Cheer on your nation's entry or just stare in wonderment at the strangeness of it all.

Nagoya Cinémathèque (名古屋シネマテーク), Imaike Star Bldg. 2F, Imaike 1 chome 6-13, Chikusa-ku (Located W of Imaike subway station (Subway: Higashiyama, Sakura-dori lines). Exit via subway exit 9 and turn 180 degrees to face the Nakaya bakery （中屋パン）. Walk towards the bakery and turn left onto the side street running in front of it. Continue down the side street for two blocks. The Imaike Star building is on the corner of the second block. Climb the stairs to the second floor.), ☎+81-52-733-3959, e-mail: nagoya@cineaste.jp. One of Nagoya's smallest theatres (with only 40 seats), the Cinémathèque shows a mix of foreign and art films (Japanese subtitles only), and contains a small cinema shop.

The Chūnichi Dragons (中日ドラゴンズ Chūnichi-doragonzu) , winners of the 2007 Japan Series, play in the Central League of Japanese Professional Baseball. Check out one of their games at the Nagoya Dome (Japanese) in Ōzone, northeast of downtown. (15 min walk E of JR Ōzone stn. (Chūō line) via S exit, Subway: Nagoya-dome-mae-yada (Meijō line))

Ōsu Shopping Arcade, subway Ōsu Kannon exit 2 (straight ahead one block, turn left into the temple grounds and go straight on through the gravelled temple area). A series of old style shopping arcades packed with mom-and-pop stores, ¥100 shops, traditional crafts, used computers and a fantastic range of clothing stores. There is a little bit of everything. Ōsu is the shopping area and Osu Kannon the temple just to the west side. In fact, the shopping area extends from Ōsu Kannon temple in the west to Banshō-ji (万松寺) temple and Ōtsu-dōri street (大津通り) in the east. Outside of the main shopping arcade, there are also a number of streets with a wide array of different specialty shops.

Akamon-dōri (赤門通り） is known for the bright red banners hung along the street, and hosts a variety of stereo and electronics stores as well as used record shops. On the 28th of every month, Daikō-in temple (大光院) hosts a small temple festival（縁日 ennichi) on Akamon-dori with traditional street food stalls and lots of burning incense.

Ōtsu-dōri (大津通り） marks the eastern boundary of the Ōsu shopping area. On the lively stretch of Otsu-dori north of Kamimaezu subway station you will find the Ōsu 301 Building (大須301). The building is known for its small dragon sculpture and Chinese theme, and contains a number of small shops. Continuing north on Ōtsu-dōri, you will also find the small but funky Gatten-shōchi （合点承知） building, a mini-mall featuring fashion accessories, food stands, and various fortune tellers.

Ferris Wheel at Sakae

Sakae offers good department store shopping, restaurants and night-life. Take a walk atop the rooftop promenade of the Oasis 21 shopping arcade and get a nice view of the TV Tower.

Maruzen (丸善) (Subway: Sakae stn. (Higashiyama, Meijo Lines). Next to the Maruei department store). M-F 9:00-8PM Sa-Su 9:00-7PM. Offers a reasonable selection of English books, magazines, and newspapers on the 3rd floor, including travel guidebooks, maps, a wide array of books on Japan, and Japanese language study materials.

Sanseido Books, 11F, JR Central Towers above JR Nagoya Station (Subway: Nagoya stn (Sakura-dori, Higashiyama, Tsurumai lines). From inside the station, walk towards the Sakura-dori exit and turn right before the exit. You will see a bank of express elevators. Board an express elevator to the 12th floor. Exit the elevator and head towards the open area with windows overlooking Nagoya. You will notice an escalator descending to Sanseido Books on the 11th floor.). Offers a corner with English books, magazines and newspapers. Features books on Japan plus a decent selection of current nonfiction titles and business books. A small selection of guidebooks are also available.

The Mondo Lounge (問答ラウンジ), Ishou Mansion Bldg. 2F, Kamimaezu 2-4-6, Naka-ku (Located on Osu Dori （大須道）east of Kamimaezu exit 3 and before the river. Subway: Kamimaezu stn. (Meijo, Tsurumai lines) Exit 3. Exit the subway and immediately turn left at the top of the stairs. You will see a small restaurant in front of you with awnings and shutters on the windows. Turn left again and continue to the street corner. You will see a small Japanese used bookstore Tsutaya Shouten (つたや書店) immediately on your right. Turn right and continue down the street. You will pass by a restaurant with a stainless steel statue of a chef. Continue straight across a small side street. The Mondo Lounge entrance is located just after the brown Bank of Nagoya (名古屋銀行）building.), ☎+81-52-331-3799, e-mail: info@mondo-books.com. M-Su 10AM-10PM. Formerly Mondo Books, this English second-hand bookstore and cafe lounge is run by two friendly and knowledgeable local expats and a fluently bilingual Japanese woman. Features a selection of affordable books on a variety of subjects and a cafe and event space. Offering service in English, Spanish and French.

Best bets for cameras and electronics include Bic Camera, a massive 5 story camera and electronics megastore across the street from Nagoya station (on the Taikō-dōri side). Ōsu Market also has a number of large and small electronics shops, including Goodwill (computers and peripherals - otaku culture fans will also want to check out the maid cafe in the basement), DOS Para and others. Unfortunately, some of the electronics shops in Osu (such as Goodwill) are not located on the main shopping streets, and you may have to ask around to find them. There are also two Eiden electronics superstores located in Fushimi and near JR Ōzone stn on the JR Chūō Line.

Nagoya is big on miso, a sauce made from fermented soybeans and grain. You should not leave the city without trying misokatsu (味噌カツ), fried pork cutlet with a rich, red miso sauce on it.

The other Nagoya classic is shrimp tempura, particularly when wrapped up in rice and dried seaweed and turned into a handy portable package known as a tenmusu (天むす).

The city is also known for uirō (外郎), a confectionery made out of rice flour and sugar; a little firmer than gelatin but not as sticky as mochi. Many different flavors are available, including red bean (小豆 azuki） and green tea (抹茶 matcha）.

Nagoya's noodle specialty is kishimen (きしめん), a flat, broad noodle often served in a miso or soy sauce broth. Available in most restaurant-gai in shopping centres or close to major railway stations.

Hitsumabushi (ひつまぶし) is an eel dish. Hitsumabushi is served with rice in a small box, and can be eaten three ways. First, just the eel and rice; second, with green onions and nori, and third, with tea or soup stock poured over it.

Café de Metro, 1F Kanayama station (North Exit). Serves up basic curry and donburi dishes, including a decent misokatsu, for ¥480 with coffee/tea, or ¥680 with miso soup and pickles.

Jerry's UNO, Located near Fureai Plaza in the Osu shopping district, to the giant manekineko statue's left (your right if you are facing the statue). It's a nice little taco shop that will run you about 500 yen per taco. They also have a nice selection of international beers.

Kanran aka Marche du Soleil. European style restaurant, near Osu Kannon subway station. Plenty of vegetarian options on the (available in English) menu - the organic vegetable sticks and vegetable pizza are good choices. Staff are friendly and speak a usable amount of English.

Yamamotoya Sōhonke (山本屋総本家), 25-9 Meieki, B1F Horinouchi Bldg (on Sakura-dori not far from Exit 6 of the Nagoya subway station). The home of the classic Nagoya miso dish nikomi udon, consisting of thick, chewy, handmade udon noodles served in boiling hot miso sauce/stock. Fairly pricy at ¥1200 for a basic bowl and rather difficult to eat — diners are provided with bibs to protect themselves from soup spray — but the effort is worth it.

Nagoya's nouveaux riche are catered for by several luxury department stores and many first-class restaurants, which are sometimes difficult find for auto-less tourists.

Arena Venini, ☎+81-52-757-5100. Chikusa-ku, Kiribayashi 1-4-1 Ikeshita Hills 1F. An outstanding yet small Italian restaurant in a very small on the street behind the Chikusa Ward office across the street from Ikeshita station.

Antica Roma, Daikancho 39-18, Higashi-ku (Subway: Kurumamichi Stn. (Sakura-dori line). 5 minute walk west of Exit 1 (towards Sakae) on N side of Sakura Dori street), ☎+81-52-930-2770, fax: +81-52-930-2771, e-mail: info@anticaroma.jp. Cafe 14:00-17:00 (Terrazza, Pizzeria). Dinner 17:30-23:30 (last order 22:30). Excellent high-class Italian food (like seafood risotto, broccoli pasta or herb-stuffed pork rolls), but also delicious oven-baked pizzas. All this in three superbly furnished rooms. The main room is baroque-style with chandeliers and has not only a live pianist, but also a live opera singer every night (dress code for this room).The course menus start at ¥4,000, the pizzas at ¥1,500, a half-bottle of house wine is ¥2,500..

Around Nagoya station, there are a lot of places for cheap drinking. Sakae is the big nightlife district, in a loose triangle formed by the Sakae, Yaba-cho and Osu Kannon stations. Sakae has a large red light district as well, but as with most of Japan, there's no sense of danger so don't worry about drifting around. There are countless izakayas around Kanayama station, both cheap chains and more upscale places.

If the bar and club scene is not for you, try Nagoya Friends and their bimonthly international parties. Always a dynamic mix of foreigners and Japanese. At the party it's all you can drink and eat (~¥3000).

Yama-chan (山ちゃん) (35 locations in and around Nagoya). (Japanese) Known for its tebasaki (手羽先) fried chicken wings (one of Nagoya's specialties), this seemingly ubiquitous chain of izakayas is one of Nagoya's favorites. English menu available.

Cigar Club Kanou, Montesharine Bldg. 1F, Sakae 1 chome 10-30, Naka-ku (Located near Fushimi Stn. (Higashiyama, Tsurumai Lines). Exit via exit 7 and continue W to the Hilton Hotel. Turn left in front of the Hilton and continue S. The bar is on the left side of the street.), ☎+81-52-231-5534, fax: +81-52-231-5534. 4:30PM-1AM Tu-Sa. Located near the Hilton hotel, Cigar Club Kanou offers food, drink and a wide array of cigars (with a walk-in humidor.)

The Hub. This nationwide chain of affordable British-style pubs has three locations across the city, offering cocktails, bar food/pub grub, an English menu and some basic service in English.

Nagoya has some good clubs. A lot of the DJs who play Tokyo also pass through Nagoya. Many of the most popular clubs are located in Sakae and Shin-sakae-machi (just east of Sakae and south of the Naka ward office).

Be aware that even on week-ends, on less popular nights, clubs empty or even close early (around 2-3AM) in Nagoya. This is a sharp contrast to Tokyo, where most people come by train and have to stick around for good or for bad until the first train in the morning. In auto-city Toyota, however, many people come by car; they can and will go home early if they are bored.

Gay and Lesbian dance events are held monthly by the Nagoya Metro Club at LOVER: z across from the CBC-TV building in Shinsakae-machi.

Club Daughter. Has something happening almost every night, so you'll never be stuck for something to do. It's a small place though. To western clubbers, it may seem more like a basement party than a club, and if you're going out on a Monday or a Tuesday, you may find it pretty empty. Fridays and Saturdays, though, the place is normally packed. Drinks are about ¥600 each, entry varies, check on the site.

Club JB's. Is another good Nagoya club. Right around the corner from Club Daughter.

Club Quattro Nagoya (クラブクアトロ Kurabu-kuatoro), Nagoya Parco Department Store East Building (東館 Higashi-kan), 8F, 3-29-1 Sakae, Naka-ku (Subway: Yaba-cho stn. (Meijo line). Located in the east building of the Parco Department Store), ☎+81-52-264-8211. Concerts in early evening (5:30-8PM start). One of Nagoya's main live houses, featuring a wide array of Japanese and international rock and pop music acts.Ticket price varies per artist.

Kyoya Ryokan (京屋旅館), 2-11-4 Habashita (Located near Meido-cho, where the North-South freeway joins with the East-West counterpart. English directions supplied by the hostel are unclear; best advice is to grab a map from the tourist center. Kyoya is labelled. About 15 minute walk from JR Nagoya station), ☎+81 52-571-2588, fax: 052-571-2580. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 10:00. Awesome ryokan-style hostel with a great vibe. Offers internet access, air conditioning, and security lockers. The hostel has a nice garden in the background and an onsen-style bath.Dorm beds from ¥2500.

Capsule Inn Nagoya (カプセルイン名古屋), 7F Kanayama 4-1-20 (on Ōtsu-dōri near Kanayama stn. Left of the McDonald's), ☎+81-52-331-3278. Showing its age, but kept clean and still a perfectly functional capsule hotel. Reservations accepted and you're free to come and go, payment on arrival by cash or credit card. Hotel is men only.¥2800 gets you a capsule for night, plus ¥800 if you want to sample the sauna/spa downstairs (there are no bathing facilities in the capsule levels) and ¥500 extra if you check-in after midnight..

Hostel Ann Backpacker Inn, 2-4-2 Kanayama, Naka-ku (Located north of Kanayama station (JR Chuo, Meitetsu, Meijo/Meiko subway lines). Walk out the north exit of Kanayama station and turn right. Cross Otsu street, and turn left at the McDonald's. Continue along Otsu street for 1-2 mins. Take a right at the Chukyo-bunka-shimin-kaikan-mae (中京文化市民会館前) intersection. Go straight and turn left at the park. Take a right at the second corner and you will see the sign on your right), ☎+81 52 253 7710. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 21:00. Small hostel in central Nagoya. Offers parking, internet access, luggage storage, air conditioning and security lockers.Dorm beds from ¥2500, private twin room for ¥6000 yen.

Toyoko Inn (東横イン). Check-in: 16:00, check-out: 10:00. The popular no-frills Toyoko Inn chain operates six hotels in Nagoya. Toyoko Inn Club members can check in from 15:00.

Sauna and Capsule Fuji Sakae, 3-22-31, Nishiki, Naka-Ku Nagoya-Shi (very close to Sakae station), ☎052-962-5711NOCC. Huge capsule hotel right in the middle of Sakae. Excellent SPA facilities, clean and cheap. Booking online might be a problem; look it up on a map and just show up. Credit cards accepted. Very limited English understood. Larger hand luggage can be kept by the hotel staff. Fridays and Saturdays might mean no vacancies and a higher price. If you want to experience a real capsule hotel not targeted to foreign tourists this is a very good one to try. Only males allowed, no tattoos. If you are body conscious and fear being naked around other people including some female staff, then you should avoid the SPA/onsen. Later checkout than usual at capsules (1PM). Wi-Fi everywhere. No electrical sockets in capsule.¥3200.

Daiichi Fuji Hotel, 13-17 Tsubaki-cho, Naka-ku (Nagoya train station, Shinkansen side, cross street 1 block south of Bic Camera, pass one alley, then turn left), ☎+81-52-452-1111, fax: +81-52-452-1762. This business hotel is just a few blocks from train station on a street lined with business hotels. The rooms are very small; internet access is included if you have an Ethernet cable. ¥6200/single, ¥9450/twin.

Meitetsu Inn Nagoya Kanayama (名鉄イン名古屋金山). 1-11-7 Kanayama, Naka-ku (Kanayama subway station, exit 6. Turn right at Daiei, left at Coco, look for the blue-and-white Japanese sign), +81-52-324-3434, fax +81-52-324-3435. This business hotel was built in February 2005 and has very clean rooms; in-room internet access and breakfast is included. The staff has some limited English ability. ¥6800/10,800/13,000 for single/small double/double.

Mielparque-Nagoya, 3-16-16 Aoi, Higashi-ku (Chikusa subway station, exit 1, right across the street), ☎+81-52-937-3535, fax: +81-52-937-3673. This hotel is optimized for business and weddings, with in-room internet access and rooftop wedding chapel. The staff has some limited English ability. Large breakfast buffet, Western & Japanese, ¥1,000/adult, ¥800/child, 7:00-9:30AM. Rooms: ¥6,300 single, ¥12,390/15,540 twin for two/three, ¥23,520/29,400 Japanese-style for three/five.

Marriott Associa Hotel. Nagoya Station (directly above Takashimaya Department Store). A three minute walk from a Nozomi Shinkansen train to a well-marked elevator portal takes you to the 15th floor check-in level. This often-full five star hotel (¥20,000-70,000/night) is equipped with ten good restaurants, which tend to be jammed, but the adjacent office tower also has more than 20 restaurants on two levels ranging from inexpensive noodle eateries to high-end sushi places. Note that if you have a concierge room reservation, you need to go to the concierge level (35th floor) to check in. Rooms are extremely clean and comfortable.

Freebell Apartments, ☎+81-52-571-5055. (Exit Nagoya Station Sakura-dori side entrance and turn left. Continue past the post office. The building will be on your left.) Provides monthly furnished and non-furnished apartments for a range of budgets. Popular with longer-term visitors seeking to avoid the hefty deposits required by traditional Japanese landlords.

Nagoya International Center (名古屋国際センター Nagoya kokusai sentaa), 1-47-1 Nagono, Nakamura-ku (Subway: Sakura-dori line, Kokusai Center stn.), ☎+81-52-581-0100, e-mail: info@nic-nagoya.or.jp. Tu-Su, 9:00-7PM. Closed M, Dec 29-Jan 3, 2nd Su of Aug and Feb. This city-run center for newcomers to Nagoya provides useful information about upcoming local events through their free monthly publication The Nagoya Calendar (available at numerous locations around the city) and offers various multilingual services for foreigners on longer stays or taking up residence in the city. Their headquarters near Nagoya Station also includes a lending library with books on numerous topics in English and other languages.free.

Avenues: Voices of Central Japan Quarterly magazine featuring articles on local history and culture, reviews of attractions, events, restaurants and bars. Available free at International Center and for a fee at Maruzen Bookstore in Sakae.

Japanzine Monthly tabloid-style magazine published in Nagoya featuring a section on local events, concerts, job listings, and a restaurant/bar map and guide. Available free at numerous businesses catering to foreign residents, and at Maruzen bookstore in Sakae.

RAN Magazine A new magazine focused on life in Nagoya and the city's culture and arts scene. Features articles on a wide array of topics. Available online and for free at businesses catering to foreigners around the Nagoya area.

Nagoya Calendar Monthly magazine featuring event information, daily-living advice, movie & TV listings, and a community bulletin board. Available free at International Center, the Maruzen Bookstore in Sakae, and several subway stations.

ET People Small monthly magazine aimed at English learners. Offers restaurant/bar map and listings in English. Available free at numerous bars and restaurants around the city.

Like other major cities in Japan, you can also pick up the (Tokyo-centric) English dailies The Japan Times and Japan News (by the Yomiuri Shimbun) at selected bookstores and convenience stores around the city (or read them for free at the International Center library).

Inuyama, with its picturesque castle, kinky fertility shrines, and nearby Meiji Village, is a short day trip from the city. From Meitetsu Nagoya station located next to Nagoya station, there are express trains (around a 30 minute ride) to Inuyama station or Inuyamayuen station. From either station, Inuyama castle is about a 20 minute walk to the west and is on the south side of the river. The entrance is on the south side of the castle grounds.

Gifu - Visit Gifu castle (take a bus from the train station). Ride the cable car up the mountain (or hike), feed the squirrels (they jump on your arm and eat from your hand), visit the museum, enjoy the amazing view from the top of the castle. See the Nagaragawa fireworks display during the summer festival.

Tokoname, on the first express train stop from Nagoya airport, is a ceramic centre dating back from the 9th-century Heian period. The old town by the hill next to the train station features streets decorated with industrial ceramic pieces and pottery shops with pottery displays inside old brick furnaces.

Okazaki - Take in the castle, tour the miso factory and enjoy the fresh suburban air.

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