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I have read alot and watched alot and then read even more. I only wish I had read a post like yours when I was first starting Mig. In a few short lines you made it easy to understand and why it is like it is.

Im not dismissing anything!! Believe me if I ask for advise Im going to take it.

As far as my drag goes theres no undercut of the bead and full penetration is there. I do the typical destructive test with a hammer and a vice and the metal failed before the weld . With that said Im not anywhere pro so please dont construe what I said in my past post as some kind of snotty remark.

As far as gun angle is concerned I think Im keeping a 15 deg angle or so. I keep the gun just back enough to see the pool.

Well this morning I made up some sample joints and tried out pushing the weld.

All I have to say is WOW!! I could never figure out what was wrong with what I was doing and I found it. The welds are nice and even without the heavy lumps I had before. It took me 2 times before I got the technique down and every one after was great.

Other guys in the shop said theyd trust themselves in a car with welds like I did.

All I can say is thank you very much for the recommendation as it opened me up to being able to build much more than I could before. I would only use square stock because of my horrible technique with tubing but now I wont be scared at all to use it whenever possible.

I'm in the process of building a chassis with a lot of tubing in it. The tubing is about the same size as you are inquiring about. I TIG welded it all for the very reasons people have mentioned (quality of penetration and being able to better see what I was doing). HOWEVER, it took a very long time. Also, I was watching the 24/7 on HBO that showed them building the NASCAR chassis. I saw they seemed to be MIG welding everything. Next time I build a chassis I would love to MIG in an effort to move a little faster. I'm only a hobbiest, but it sometimes gets hard to stay motivated when you have hours and hours of just welding after everything is tacked up.

I'd love to see some video of someone welding. I can read all I want to, but I find (especially in welding type applications) seeing someone do it correctly is of much more benefit.

nhra...mild steel can be migged or tigged and 4130 moly must be tigged...i can tell you from my own personal experience i use an .030 er70s2 in my mig for welding cages if the money isnt right...if the money is right or its for a friend even the mild steel gets tig welded...the advice some of these guys are giving you is dead on the money...i used to pull with half moons myself but after doing destruction tests myself (i was a lab rat at a steel tubing mill for 3yrs) on my own welds lets just say i switched to pushing...you can get real nice looking welds even pushing if you practice enough...i just had an nhra inspector here at my house yesterday to do a 25.5 cert (good to 7.50 in the quarter mile) for me on my buddies proe85 car we just finished...i also use er70s2 for the tig when doing cages with 2% reds...

Mig Chassis Welding

Originally Posted by jpmachado

I'm in the process of building a chassis with a lot of tubing in it. The tubing is about the same size as you are inquiring about. I TIG welded it all for the very reasons people have mentioned (quality of penetration and being able to better see what I was doing). HOWEVER, it took a very long time. Also, I was watching the 24/7 on HBO that showed them building the NASCAR chassis. I saw they seemed to be MIG welding everything. Next time I build a chassis I would love to MIG in an effort to move a little faster. I'm only a hobbiest, but it sometimes gets hard to stay motivated when you have hours and hours of just welding after everything is tacked up.

I'd love to see some video of someone welding. I can read all I want to, but I find (especially in welding type applications) seeing someone do it correctly is of much more benefit.

Thanks
JP

MIG welding works great when you're building a chassis such as a stock car,which is truly "over built" and have a ton of tubing. We've built a few where we TIG welded the entire chassis~it saved just over six pounds -just from the smaller TIG beads-but it simply takes too much time considering the life of one of these race cars. We've sent both chassis (TIG and MIG) to testing facilities which perform torsional stiffness and rigidity tests on them, and they get virtually the same numbers.