I recently watched a course on SkillShare called The Art of Subtraction. It teaches people how to draw background patterns and textures for their art, then give shape to their creation by erasing portions of it.

I've already used a similar method for pieces like "Chaotic Hearts", but the class gave me ideas for how to expand on the technique, so I decided to complete the class project - which is, create 3-5 pieces of artwork by subtracting from a drawing.

The result was this 3-part art series, "Subtracting Night from Rainbows".

Maid of Stars and Rainbows

Forest of Weeping Jewels

Butterflies and SnowFlowers

Full Collection + Drawing Process

To create these pictures, I started by making a black layer. Then I added a layer of color on top of it, then another black layer.

After that, I used the eraser to remove parts of the upper black layer, thus revealing the colors beneath in my chosen shapes.

In response to the course's recommendation, I also added layers, colors and shapes on top of the black layer, to add variety and interest. For example, the picture at the top of this post, "Maid of Stars and Rainbows", has stars added on top of her partly-erased black layer.

Because it was a quick experiment for an art class, I didn't draw it at full 8,000 by 8,000 resolution like I usually do for my print-on-demand pieces, so it isn't available on the full range of products, but you can get it on coffee mugs, journals, shower curtains and more in my Society6 and RedBubble stores.

In this case, I'd recommend RedBubble over S6, because it let me tile the image and thus add it to a wider variety of products and make it look better on them.

I was listening to Celestial Garden by one of my favorite composers on YouTube, and it made me want to draw some flowers. Almost everything in this picture was drawn with the same brush I use for my snowflakes, except for a few spots where I used a different, soft-edged brush to adjust the shading.

It was a bit of a challenge coming up with enough different shapes to keep any of the large flowers from being repeats of the others, but thankfully Google was there with lists of different types of flowers. :)

If you want to learn how to use the brush I drew this with, as well as the technique I used to create the symmetrical flowers, check out my tutorial here.

The tutorial is geared toward drawing snowflakes, but the same brush/technique combo can be used to draw flowers, too. You can actually use it to create a fully shaded flower petal with a single stroke, once you've mastered it.

It's available on coffee mugs, tapestries, pillows and more in my Society6 store, and most of them are 25% off today (June 9, 2019).

​Here are some examples of products adorned with Flying Above the Garden:

​For the last few months, I’ve been sharing symmetrical snowflake patterns with you. This hobby has turned out to be so relaxing, fun, and surprisingly easy that I wanted to give you the chance to learn how to do it, too.

So I took all the tools, tips and steps I use to create these patterns, and I put them together in a series of bite-size video tutorials and published them on SkillShare.

On top of learning how to create symmetrical snowflakes, you’ll also discover how to sell these patterns as prints and physical merchandise like coffee cups, so you can turn this hobby into an income source if you want to.

I can’t wait to hear what you think of this class, and to see what kind of art you use it to create!

Also, if you know someone who you think would enjoy drawing symmetrical patterns, please share this link with them. I really appreciate it!

It's a lot simpler than most of her designs, and a bit rough in a couple places, but I'm fairly happy with how it turned out. I think I'll be making more of these in the future, on the days when I feel like drawing something other than Just Cause.

WHEN in the future, I'm not sure; I've learned to be cautious about making commitments to side projects, haha. But it was nice to draw something a bit less mentally demanding than a webcomic, and to just draw whatever looks nice and let it evolve as I went.

Special thanks to my Patrons, Mica and Trish, for helping to make art like this possible.

I recently saw a picture in which the artist was trying to use glow effects, but ran into a problem because the shining soul that was casting the light was darker than the shirt it was casting that light on.

I gave them a couple tips, and decided to share those tips here, too.

1. When a dark-colored light source is casting light on a non-black object, especially one with a lighter shade than the light source, make the color of the glow slightly lighter than the color of its source.

​When the light source's color is darker than the object on which it's casting light (like the soul compared to the shirt), it makes it look like the soul is casting pure color or even darkness on the object it's glowing on.

2. Add a lighter shade of the base color to the center of the soul, so it looks more like a light source.

Here's a quick demo of what the abovementioned glow effects look like in total darkness and on clothing the color of the shirt they drew, so you can see the difference.​

The two souls on the top are both casting light the same shade as their base color, albeit not at full opacity. Notice how the shirt seems darkened.

The souls on the bottom are glowing their base color in the dark, but on the shirt, the glow is lighter than the base color, so they aren't darkening the shirt.

If you're an artist who uses Photoshop 7.0, and you want the size of your brush stroke to exactly match the size of your brush, you probably know the struggle.

You carefully glide the brush or eraser in the exact place where you want it to take effect, grazing the edge of the patch of color that you want to enlarge or shave down... and nothing happens.

The outer edge of your brush has no effect, Captain, and your perfect brushstroke was wasted.

If you've been finding that only the very center of your brush will draw, there's a good chance that a feature called "Shape Dynamics" is activated.

Shape Dynamics is supposed to allow you to control the shape of your brush by the way you angle and press down with your pen, and it actually has a positive effect on some brushes.

But when you're trying to do precision work by barely grazing something with the edge of your brush, and you just want your brush to stay predictably at the same size, it becomes a huge hindrance.

To make matters worse, there's no simple way to permanently turn it off in Photoshop 7.0. No matter how many times you turn it off, every time you switch to a brush that has it active by default, it will turn back on.

I've heard tell of some legendary button that looks like a pen inside a circle, and supposedly it's supposed to solve this problem, but if it's lurking somewhere in my interface, I haven't been able to find it.

If you don't have this button in your Photoshop, you have three options:

1. Resign yourself to using brushes with Shape Dynamics active.

2. Turn off Shape Dynamics every time you switch to a brush whose default settings include that feature being turned on.

3. The solution I found: create a new set of brushes with Shape Dynamics inactive. It's a bit tedious, but it's easier than you probably think it will be, and it permanently solves the problem of Shape Dynamics turning itself back on.

NOTE: If you like Shape Dynamics in some scenarios, you can always turn it back on, or keep/create brush presets that include it. This process simply stops it from turning on by itself after you've turned it off.

How to create new brushes without shape dynamics:

Step 1: Select the brush you want to use without shape dynamics.

For best results, start with the brush you want to have displayed at the beginning of your brush menu.

Photoshop 7.0 doesn't allow you to change the order in which your brushes are displayed after they're created, so I suggest creating the brushes in the order in which you want them to appear.

The new brushes will appear at the bottom of the selection, so if you want them to be at the front of the list, you'll have to create copies of ALL the brushes you want to keep in the order in which you want them to appear, and then delete the originals.

This is the main reason why the process is so tedious, but it also gives you the chance to explore, modify and create some brushes that you might never have noticed or discovered otherwise.

Step 2: Open the "brushes" tab.

This tab is in the top navigation bar, just to the right of "File Browser".​

Step 3: Deselect "Shape Dynamics".

As you'll see in the picture below, deactivating this feature means the brushstroke is always the same size as the brush, rather than shrinking at the ends or in response to brush pressure.

As noted above, you can turn it back on anytime you want, but the next step will prevent it from turning back on spontaneously after you turn it off.​

Step 4: While "Shape Dynamics" is inactive, create a new brush.

At the bottom right of the "brushes" tab menu, click the icon that looks like a box with a smaller, bisected box inside it. You can see it circled in the image below.

Once you've clicked this, a pop-up will appear, prompting you to name your new brush. After you click "OK", this new Shape Dynamics-free brush will be added at the bottom of your list of brushes.​

Repeat this process for every brush for which you want to have a version that has Shape Dynamics turned off by default.

As previously noted, you should create the brushes in the order in which you want them to appear, since you can't rearrange existing brushes.

If you want your new brushes to be displayed at the top of the brush list, you'll have to use this method to create copies of all the brushes you want to keep, then delete the originals.

While you're doing this, you might as well arrange the brushes in the order in which you use them most, put ones you frequently use together close to each other, or otherwise organize your brushes in a way that suits you.

I also encourage you to play around with the other brush effects while you're deactivating Shape Dynamics. You might find a new appearance for a brush that you didn't realize was available.

Here are some examples of how brush effects change a leaf brush's stroke:

I ended up saving several different versions of some of the brushes, each with a different effect or set of effects active.

​While you're changing the Shape Dynamics and otherwise altering the brush before saving your new version of it, you should also set each brush to the size at which you're most likely to use it.

I hope you found this article helpful. If you did, please share it with anyone else you know who's been cussing at Photoshop and unhelpful how-to articles for this issue, and check out my other art advice articles.

And if you want to support me as an artist, storyteller, and provider of art and writing tips, please consider becoming a patron on my Patreon:​

Starting a long-running webcomic is a big undertaking. There are a lot of things to keep track of, skills to hone, and tips and tricks that can make the process easier, as I've discovered over the year and a half that's passed since I first started working on my Undertale webcomic, Just Cause.

A fellow artist recently expressed interest in picking my brain, so I thought, "Hey, why not turn this into a blog post, so everyone can benefit from all this experience and brain-picking?"

And so, here we are, taking a look at the seven things I wish I'd known when I started out.

​Some of these tips are specific to digital artists in general and Photoshop users in particular, but if your image editor includes layers, most of what I say will work for you.​Webcomic Lesson 1: Start with a template.

One of the best decisions I made when I first started to draw Just Cause was to make a template I could use for each page.

This template consists of several layers:

1. The outline text

This is the first layer above the background, where I write my notes about what goes in each panel. The characters' names, poses, facial expressions, backgrounds, items, or anything else I need to know in order to draw that panel go into the outline text.

This helps me to figure out the layout of the comic, and to know what goes where, before I even start to draw.

I recommend keeping the outline text layer separate from the background layer, so if you want to move a piece around, you can do so easily without leaving a blank space where the section of text used to be.

I usually use a pale grey shade for my outline text, so it isn't too obtrusive or distracting.

I've also found that, in Photoshop 7.0 at least, it's good to have a single pixel on the outline text layer, so it doesn't turn into a text layer when I start to write on it. This way, starting to write creates a new layer, which can be merged into the outline layer when it's done.

2. The text for the dialogue

Back when I was mostly drawing my comics on paper, I had a chronic problem where I'd draw the panel, then realize I had no room for the word bubbles.

Now, I add the dialogue text during the planning phase, so I know exactly where it goes and how much room it takes up before I draw anything.

This is especially important for a webcomic that I'm trying to make mobile-friendly. When you're making the dialogue text big enough to (hopefully) be readable on a smartphone, you end up with some pretty big word balloons!

I try to make my dialogue paragraphs as circular or ovular as I can - narrow at the top and bottom, wider in the middle - so they fit neatly into rounded word balloons.

I also use a color other than black and white, so the text is visible against both the white background and the black word balloons I'll later add. I'll turn it white after I add the word balloons, but in the planning stages, it needs to stand out against both.

3. The layout lines

Once I've used the outline text to determine where each panel goes, I use the layout line layer to create lines between the panels. This layer stays near the top of the Photoshop file, and the panels are drawn beneath it.

That way, I don't have to worry about accidentally coloring on the lines that separate the panels, since those lines are in a layer above the panel layers.

I recommend NOT using anti-aliased lines for your layout lines, except for the diagonal ones. It gives the lines a sharper, cleaner appearance, and makes it more obvious if you've made a line crooked and need to fix it.

4. The panel number

This is one of the more unusual elements of my process, because it actually has nothing to do with drawing the comic.

I'd noticed that some artists who had a variable release schedule were plagued by people demanding to know when the next page would be available - which, while flattering, can also create a lot of pressure for the artist, and it can become annoying if too many people are doing it.

Every time I finish drawing a couple panels, I update the progress bar. Trouble is, that means I have to keep counting how many panels I've drawn - which, in the longer pages, can get tedious.

So I created a text layer that indicates how many panels I've drawn and how many are in the page overall. Every time I finish a panel, I simply change the number in the "panel number" layer.

5. The color palette

Because I use soft shading, as opposed to cel shading, it's sometimes hard to tell where the base color ends and the light and shadow begin. This can cause me to lose track of which shade I'm supposed to start out with when drawing the characters.

I eventually got sick of repeatedly having to look up sprites or open separate files with unshaded versions of the characters, so I included a color palette layer.

This layer basically consists of the characters' names, with the letters written in their various colors.

6. The word balloons

In Photoshop, when you write a bit of text, it creates a new layer. On the layer directly below these new text layers, I have a dedicated layer for word balloons, labeled "Dialogue".

Once I've got the comic's layout fully figured out, I create the word balloons below their respective bits of text, then merge the text down into the word balloons.

While you're doing this, double-check to make sure the text is the way you want it before merging; once it's merged, you can no longer type in that paragraph, backspace, italicize, or anything like that. Basically, it stops being text, and becomes a picture of text.

7. The chapter number

This, along with the chapter name being visible at the top of the template, is an element I added in response to a specific frustration I experienced as a reader.

Sometimes, when I'm scrolling through Tumblr, I see a comic and start to read it... only to realize that it's a later chapter in a comic I'm reading but haven't caught up with yet, and I just gave myself spoilers.

To avoid doing the same thing to my readers, I have the comic title embedded as a permanent feature in the layout lines, and an editable text layer with the chapter number in the template. No spoilers for the unprepared!

8. A horizontal line

Have you ever had a time when you tried to use the line tool to make a perfectly straight line, only to find that the very act of clicking nudged the mouse or touchpad enough to make it crooked? I have. SO MANY TIMES.

So rather than deal with that frustration every time I want to make a line to separate one row of panels from another, I just have a separate layer with a horizontal line that I can copy, paste, move, and then merge down into the layout line layer.

Here's an example of a page template, with all the elements labeled by number.

The number labels are in bright pink, to differentiate them from the other numbers in the template.

​I forgot to add a separate layer for the dialogue text in the screenshot before editing, and I was almost done by the time I realized, so... just pretend it's there, OK?

1. The outline text2. The text for the dialogue3. The layout lines4. The panel number5. The color palette6. The word balloons (not yet added in this stage of planning out the comic)7. The chapter number8. The horizontal line

Webcomic Lesson 2: Use what feels natural.

When I first started drawing my webcomic, I wanted to keep it simple and fast, so I decided to use cel shading.

I told myself, "I'll just do one layer of shading, AND NO MORE!"

As you can see, that commitment didn't last.

Even in the first page of the comic, when I was still trying to restrict myself to simple shading, I found that the TV was easier to draw with soft and complex shading to define its various planes and slopes.

After a few chapters, I concluded that I was spending more time trying to figure out how to make things look good with hard shading than I'd spend just doing the soft shading that came more naturally to me.

So I went with my natural tendencies, and started creating better art in less time as a result.

Even before I start to shade, my overall process for drawing things tends to differ from most of the processes and advice I've seen.

I usually see people recommending that you do a sketch layer first, then a lineart layer, then fill in the lines with color.

Personally, after making a rough sketch to get an idea of where all the body parts go, I find it easier to start with the color, sculpt it until it's the shape I want, then draw lines around that.

It's less effort to shave a couple millimeters off of a blob of color than it is to change the position and shape of a line, at least for me.

As a result, my drawing process after the sketch phase tends to look like this:​

And that brings me to the next thing I REALLY wish I'd known earlier...

Coloring within the lines is SO much easier when those lines aren't on the same layer as the color.

When the outlines are in a layer above the color, it doesn't matter if the color brush overlaps with the lines a bit; the lines are hovering above the color, so they won't be affected.

That way, your nice, smooth lines stay nice and smooth, and you can color more quickly because you don't have to be as careful.

The same goes for the shading. If you realize you've put some shading where you don't want it, it's nice to be able to just erase it without accidentally erasing the base color beneath it in the process.

This separation of layers also facilitates another trick I've learned, which is...

Webcomic Lesson4: Cheat your butt off.

Here's the part where I reveal my dirty little secret: I cheat.

By "cheat", I mean I follow in the footsteps of Andrew Hussie and several other webcomic artists whose stories I enjoyed, and use copying and pasting to make my work go faster.

If I have two panels with the same character in the same pose, instead of drawing the second panel from scratch, I'll simply copy the character from the first panel, paste them into the second panel, then change details like shading and the facial expression if need be.

I've even gone so far as to keep a folder full of stock poses for various characters, and some mix-and-match items like certain hair positions for Frisk that I can paste onto their head.

This folder is sorted by character, and each character's file includes accessories like their magic attacks as well as the poses.

By keeping the base color, outline and shade layers separate, I'm able to re-shade the images easily, which helps to keep the pictures from looking recycled and repetitive.

It also helps with situations where the light direction is different in the new panel than it was in the panel in which the pose was first drawn.

One note of caution when using this art hack: if you take a stock pose and increase its size, it can get noticeably blurry.

If you expect to use a pose a lot, I recommend making a big version first and putting it in your stockpile, then shrinking it to fit the panel.

Or, if you started out with a small version and then needed a big one, you can delete the now-blurry outline and redo it, while keeping the base color intact. Isn't layer separation great?

Is this trick a bit lazy? Maybe.

But when the text file for your comic is 181 pages long, and it isn't even finished yet, you either find ways to make the process go faster, or accept that you're probably going to be doing this for the next decade.

Webcomic Lesson5: Keep track of the characters' locations.

One of my biggest challenges has been keeping track of where the characters are relative to each other and their surroundings, and where the light is hitting them from, in scenarios where they move around a lot.

Fight scenes are a HUGE pain in the butt that way.

I've found that it helps to have a model of the area you're drawing, and icons that indicate where the characters are.

Even if it's just a bird's-eye view of the ground, and text layers with the characters' names that you can move around, this will help you to keep track of where everyone is in any given panel, so you don't have people or light sources teleporting around.

Webcomic Lesson6: Let it go.​

When you start a webcomic, there are several things you have to let go of.

First, let go of the need to be perfect before you start, because your art style will inevitably evolve, and your best work now will look like crap to you later.

Case in point: Sans before, and Sans now:​

I mean, just look at the awful, lumpy marshmallow potato he used to be.​And yet, no one complained about the quality of the art. That brings me to the second thing you have to let go of: being perfect AT ALL.

Webcomic panels don't have to be art-critique-ready levels of flawless; they just have to effectively convey the scene, actions and emotions in them.

People want to see the next chapter in the story more than they want the art to be perfect, and good dialogue and plotlines are more important than impeccable drawing.

Yes, if a picture looks wrong to you, it's probably a sign that something needs to be adjusted. And for me, there are few feelings more satisfying than finally figuring out what was making the picture look off, and watching it become awesome - often with a relatively minor tweak.

But bear in mind, you'll spend a lot more time drawing each panel and getting acquainted with its flaws than your readers spend will looking at it.

And if you do get critics who are just looking for something to complain about?

Evaluate their criticism carefully, use the accurate observations to improve, offer courteous correction to the accidentally inaccurate assessments, and ignore, block, or have some mischievous fun with the ones who are just throwing insults without providing any useful information.

Whatever helps you keep up your confidence and motivation to keep drawing.

Webcomic Lesson 7: DON'T let it go.

There are some things you SHOULD let go of.

Your passion for your story, your enjoyment of the process of creating great art, and your determination to see the project through are not among them.

When you're starting to feel discouraged, pause. Look at the number of views and favorites you've gotten on DeviantArt, think about the scenes you look forward to drawing, and remember that even the most popular artists started out obscure.

They didn't hone their craft, enjoy their own art, complete their stories, or get a raving fan base by giving up.

They kept creating great content, gathering followers as they went, and building up - sometimes gradually - to where they are today.

I'm not a wildly popular storyteller yet. Someday, I want to be.

More importantly, I PLAN to be, no matter how long it takes.

I have stories I want to share with the world, lives I want to touch, people I want to make happy, deep contemplations and discussions I want to inspire, and wounds I want to heal in my readers by helping them to understand themselves better through watching my characters evolve.

I have fan art of my stuff that I want to see, even though it hasn't been drawn yet, and fanfiction I want to read.

I'm not going to stop before that dream becomes reality. And neither should you, whatever your dream happens to be.

Now take these tips, or whichever of them sound useful to you, get out there, and tell your story. Your readers are waiting for you.

If you're interested in character design, you've probably seen your share of tips. Some are good advice that should be followed, some are absurd, and some are misguided and pretentious attempts to apply blanket rules to a field with lots of variables.

But there are a few rules that I believe are universal, and that far too many character designers seem to blatantly disregard.

Here are some practical, commonsensical tips you can use to make your characters' appearances feel more real and fit the characters better, without restricting your creative freedom to "their outfit must have X number of colors!" in the process.

Character design tip #1: The character's outfit should fit the situation.

This especially goes for people who design female characters.

OK, it goes for all genders, but fictional women seem to be the most frequent victims of character designers who pretend their creations are smart, strategic people, and then send them into battle moronically and suicidally underdressed.

If your badass supersoldier spy is going undercover at a cocktail party, sure, you can put her in a flattering dress.

But if she's going into battle with her cleavage bared, against opponents who won't be distracted by that sort of thing, you're ignoring the basic storytelling principles of keeping characters in-character and making their decisions plausible just to shoehorn in a bit of extra boobage.

Granted, there are exceptions to every rule. Having a fancy battle dress is practically a requirement for being a magical girl, and their magic powers tend to make up for the disadvantages their wardrobes present, so there is some leeway there.

(Though, come to think of it, I'd love to see a magical girl series where their transformation resulted in armor instead of dresses. That would be a smart, interesting twist.)

So while you don't want a stealth-based character who needs to sneak around, slip through small spaces, or blend into crowds clanking around in full plate armor, a character on the battlefield needs a better reason than "I need flexibility" to go unprotected.

Also, if your knight with girl parts is wearing boobplate (a 'breastplate' that cups and emphasizes her boobs separately, as opposed to covering the whole chest in one smooth curve), her blacksmith needs to be fired for being bad at their job and recklessly endangering their customers.

Here are some practical questions you can ask yourself to determine what outfit is appropriate for the character's situation:

1. What is the goal of their outfit?

Are they trying to blend in? Look sexy (for a good in-story reason, NOT a meta-story "sex sells" reason)? Protect themselves in battle? Carry every high-tech spy gadget invented by every sapient species at once, just in case?

Their outfit should reflect this goal.

2. What resources are available to them?

If your character is dirt poor and unwilling to steal, they might not be able to acquire armor or fancy clothing. Unless, of course, they have a benefactor who's willing to help them, whether out of altruism or because it's required for the mission for which they're being hired.

Your character's clothes should reflect their era, their geographical area and its culture and available clothes, and their current and past financial situation.

I mention 'past financial situation' because they might, for example, still have nice clothes that they bought before their finances crashed. Their whole life needs to be taken into account, to the same degree to which their past influences their present.

3. What is the weather like?

Unless they ended up in a location they didn't expect to visit, or the weather changed suddenly, your character should be dressed for it.

Unless their wardrobe comes with built-in thermal regulation, they're innately temperature-resistant, or they need their suit of armor regardless of the climate, it makes no sense for them to have the same type of outfit in a tropical or temperate location and a snow-covered forest. (CoughBlackWidowCough)

When taking the weather into account, be sure to consider how much time the character has to prepare and acquire/pack clothes, whether or not they would see this kind of weather coming, and whether they'd have the resources to get appropriate clothing with the amount of notice they had.

Character design tip #2: The outfit should reflect their personality and abilities.

This is closely related to tip #1, but is distinct enough to warrant its own section.

If a character is cocky, unwise, rebellious, or wants to mentally throw the people around them for a loop, they might deliberately choose to dress in a way that's inappropriate to the situation.

But if a character is very serious and practical and has no superpowers, they should dress accordingly, especially when going into battle.

If a character is very comfortable with her body and sexuality, is too innocent to think much of showing skin, or simply doesn't give a crap what other people think of her, then it makes sense to have her show up in a crop top or revealing dress.

But if she's very shy or modest, or has openly expressed disdain for women who use their sexuality to get ahead in life, then showing her cleavage off will probably be out of character in most situations.

(CoughAerynSunCoughCleavageInBattleCoughWTFCough)

Their past, and the beliefs and coping mechanisms they developed as a result of it, should also play a role in your outfit decisions.

A character who's been sexually abused or assaulted might try to hide their body and attractiveness for fear of getting the wrong kind of attention. Or they might deliberately dress sexy in an attempt to reassert control over their sexuality.

Or they might just continue dressing the way they did before, whatever that way might be.

Once again, it depends on their personality and decisions.

Whatever clothing choices your character makes, the basic rule holds true: it should be in-character, and should fit their beliefs, personality, ability and situation.

Character design tip # 3: The character's body should fit their lifestyle and profession.

Can we talk about Lara Croft's arms? Her skinny little arms, with which she supposedly pulls herself up ledges? This woman should have some serious upper body muscle tone... but in some iterations, she doesn't.

This is an example of what NOT to do when designing a character, and it isn't just the ladies who get hit with it.

If they frequently get into fights that involve cuts and/or burns, are not perfect at dodging, and don't have the medical technology or superpowers required to swiftly and flawlessly heal wounds, having some scars would be more realistic than their skin being smooth from head to toe.

If they live in a hot climate and are outdoors frequently, they should probably have a tan, unless they have a skin condition or wear clothing that prevents tanning.

For that matter, they should probably also have body parts that aren't tanned, unless they were out there nude.

If they use crutches or a manual wheelchair a lot, their arms should show the effects of the muscles being frequently exercised.

When you're designing your character's body, consider where they live, what experiences they've had, and what kind of activities they frequently do.

And for the love of all things holy (or at least, for the sake of plausibility, good-quality storytelling, and not making me roll my eyes at you), don't just design them for sex appeal in a way that makes no sense in light of their lifestyle or their past.

Please. Just don't.

Character design tip #4: Their voices should fit their background.

While watching Tangled and How to Train Your Dragon, I noticed a weird pattern:

The adults spoke with an accent that their children didn't share.

Rapunzel had never heard any voice other than Gothel's since she was a baby, yet for some reason, she never picked up her "mother"s accent.

And while the adult vikings all spoke with a Scottish accent, their children didn't.

This seemed weird and unrealistic enough to break immersion a bit, even in stories where hair glows, horses act like hyper-intelligent dogs, and dragons exist.

TL;DR: Keep your character designs plausible and in-character.

Sure, there are other, more nuanced and advanced facets of character design that someone who's studied the field in more depth could get into.

And even then, there would probably be exceptions to most of the rules they laid out, or rebellious try-hards who would take their "don't do this" as a challenge and find a way to make a maligned design practice work. (CoughProbablyMeCough)

But at the core of the process of designing your character, a simple, universal principle holds true:

Their appearance and wardrobe should make sense in light of their personality, environment and activities.

A little while ago, I stumbled upon a great way to get more comments and exposure for your pictures in DeviantArt. Or perhaps I should say, it stumbled upon me.

I'd left a detailed critique on another artist's picture, commenting on what she'd done well and what could have been done better, and suggesting some photoshop techniques that would help her achieve the effects she seemed to be going for.

Shortly afterward, I was contacted by the admin of Project Comment: a group on DeviantArt that was founded for the purpose of helping artists to get more comments, especially constructive and well-thought-out ones.

She said she'd noticed that I was interested in helping other artists to improve, and invited me to participate in Project Comment.

I was happy to accept the invitation, and after leaving constructive, detailed comments on several other members' pictures, I submitted a couple of my own to be featured in the group.

Sure enough, the comments started coming in, and several people added me to their DeviantWatch.

Now, don't get me wrong - I draw because I love drawing, not just for the attention - but it's so much better when people can see and enjoy my artwork. ^_^

If you want to get more well-thought-out comments on your artwork, and you're interested in helping other artists to improve their skills, I invite you to check out the group, and to join it if it looks like something you'll enjoy.