How to Fight Acne and Dry Skin in Winter

If you have naturally dry skin, winter can feel like a curse. Sure, summertime humidity can feel like you're swimming through the air, but have you ever felt like your chapped, raw skin was fighting a losing battle against cold temperatures and biting wind? I thought so. See? Winter is the w-o-r-s-t. And if you're anything like me, your skin likely responds in a myriad of ways: dry, flaky patches; inexplicable acne clusters; and generally just angry. Can you blame it?

Unfortunately, things are only going to get tougher before they get better. So how do you combat Mother Nature and all of her tricks? By stocking up your medicine cabinet and asking the pros, of course.

Why does my skin hate the cold?

"Cold temperatures, low humidity, and wind all put a stress on the outer skin layer," Joshua Zeichner, MD, a dermatologist in New York City, tells Teen Vogue. That combination, he explains, "can strip the skin of essential oils, cause tiny cracks in the outer skin layer, and ultimately lead to dryness and inflammation." Basically, your skin is fighting an uphill battle, and something will eventually give way.

So what should you look out for? Beata Chyla, a lead aesthetician at Bliss Spa, notes that "the most noticeable symptoms of dryness includes surface roughness and scaly patches. In more severe cases skin can be red, itchy, and even cracked." (If things turn into a rash, Dr. Zeichner adds, that's a possible sign of eczema; book a session with a derm if things seem severe.)

How could I be — gulp — making things worse?

While you might have the best intentions to warm up after a long day with a nice, hot bath, that's a recipe for disaster, Dr. Zeichner explains. "Excessive exposure to hot water can strip the skin of essential oils," he notes. Instead, he recommends keeping showers to no longer than 10 minutes and keeping the temperature down if you can. Chyla also notes that exposing your skin to wildly different temperatures can dilate the skin's blood vessels and exacerbate rosacea.

Though you might be tempted to start sloughing off extra skin cells at the first sign of flaking, Dr. Zeichner urges against it. "Many people initially react [to flaky skin] by exfoliating. This can make matters worse," he warns. A better option? "Listen to what your skin needs and apply a moisturizer. If there still are flakes, then you can consider exfoliating."

Chyla agrees. "People tend to use harsh exfoliating products, like synthetic scrubs and harsh chemical exfoliants," she explains. "These will undoubtedly leave the skin dry and irritated, in particular when we forget to moisturize adequately. The winter months generally require us to practice a slightly different skin-care regimen than during other times of the year. In colder, drier months, we should use moisturizers that provide all-day hydration, and seal all of it in with face oils for extra protection and nourishment."

How exactly should your skin-care routine change from season to season? It's always best to consult a pro for your specific needs, but generally, Chyla recommends hydration-packed potions. "During the winter, we should focus on moisturizing, using creams and masks with antioxidants and electrolytes to restore skin’s moisture barrier, and facial oils to keep our skin well protected from the cold." (Her go-tos? Bliss’s Drench & Quench Cream-To-Water Hydrator and What a Melon Reviving & De-stressing Overnight Mask, which are both available at Target.) But if your skin responds well to the hydrators, don't pack them away the minute the temperatures rise in springtime. "Particularly dry skin may require you to use these during the summer and winter months," she urges. Just lay off the retinols and other chemical exfoliants when you start going back outside, OK?

Your other skin-care products matter, too.

"Stick to gentle, soap-free cleansers," Dr. Zeichner says. While that might seem like a paradox — how can a cleanser not contain soap? — there are a few reasons behind the methodology. "True soaps contain harsh cleansing ingredients that can disrupt the outer skin layer," he explains. "Hydrating cleansers can remove dirt, oil, and sweat without disrupting the skin barrier." He taps Dove Deep Moisture Body Wash as a drugstore-friendly option.

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Another ingredient to look out for? Hyaluronic acid. The wonder ingredient has been cropping up in a number of products lately, and with good reason. "It's like a sponge that pulls in hydration to the outer skin layer, and binds up to 1,000 times its weight in water," Dr. Zeichner explains. Brands ranging from Neutrogena to GlamGlow offer potent formulas, so whatever your price range, you're sure to find something you love — and it's crucial to use the moisturizer at least once in the morning and once at night.

Dr. Z also recommends investing in a humidifier — but make sure you're picking up one that has a cool mist setting. "A cool mist humidifier is as effective as a hot steam option, but it’s safer and will not burn the skin if you get too close," he says.

So, that cold-weather acne flare-up. What gives?

"When your skin is dry, this generally means that it has been stripped of its natural oils," Chyla explains. "The weakening of the skin’s defensive barriers allows bacteria and chemicals to penetrate deeper into the skin, so your skin becomes more vulnerable to infections and breakouts."

Rather than fighting your zitty new friends, Chyla recommends you take a deep breath — and treat the area with a little hydrating TLC. "People often make the mistake of using harsh cleansers which can only make the skin more dry, and more prone to bacteria and infection," she explains. It's a never-ending cycle of dry skin and acne and dry skin and... you get the idea. Instead, she suggests cleansing twice a day with a gentle cleanser (she likes Bliss's Makeup Melt Dry/Wet Jelly Cleanser, and limiting exfoliation to no more than three times a week. Of course, you should always finish with a light moisturizer that’s rich in antioxidant properties — and if you want to fight your acne with a facial oil, remember that oils attract other oils, and can help draw even the worst whiteheads out of your skin more quickly.

If you're still looking to speed the zit-healing process, Dr. Zeichner says you can reach for the products that contain benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid — just be strategic about how you apply them. He suggests reversing your product order: Moisturize first, spot-treat second. "Applying your moisturizer to your face first acts like a primer, helping to minimize the risk of skin irritation from the acne creams," he explains. If you're still wary about applying oil to your zits, he suggests you try Clean & Clear Morning Burst Hydrating Gel Moisturizer for a light formula that doesn't block pores. All that's left to do is book a vacation and dream about spring break... Warmer weather can't come soon enough.

A trip to a tropical island is expensive. These products will hydrate even my ultra-parched skin for way less.