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Tuesday, July 5, 2011

(Wo)man Vs. Machine

A good friend of mine is a sample maker for some big-name designers. As such, he is a firm believer in efficiency in garment-making and everything he makes is done pretty much exclusively by machine. He always seems flummoxed by my insistence on extensive hand sewing. I try to defend my ways, but he has a machine solution for every hand-sewing merit I can think of. Even basting underlining! He says that if you decrease your upper thread tension you can avoid puckers.

I love hearing his tips, but I'm not really budging much from my prior beliefs. After all, if hand sewing and tailoring was good enough for Dior and Balenciaga, it's good enough for me. But this pro-machine attitude must be rubbing off on me a bit because the last dress I made I sewed entirely by machine--not a single hand stitch went into it! I even sewed the buttons on by machine. (Tip from my sample-maker friend: secure the buttons in place with Scotch tape and then zig zag them onto the garment. It works well, I admit.)

It was a good solution for this particular garment, which needed to be made quickly since it was a practice-run of a design that's going in my book. But for the "real" dress, I'm taking my time a bit more: making bound buttonholes and sewing the buttons on by hand with waxed silk thread, for starters.

I know that my penchant for hand sewing wouldn't fly in a sample workroom, and that's fine with me. There are reasons beyond speed and efficiency that people sew for themselves: to enjoy the process of making something by hand, to learn the craft of fine couture garments, and sometimes just to slow down and do something tactile. When I get preoccupied by speed, I tend to lose some of the pleasure of sewing.

But then it's also nice to have the ability to whip up a dress that's sturdy enough to throw in the wash once a week. Like most things, the solution is probably in the balance: using a melange of hand and machine techniques for each project and assessing each technique as you go along. To be a versatile seamstress, you really do need to have an arsenal of skills ready to go at any given moment.

But I would bet that most people lean one way or another--towards hand sewing or toward doing everything by machine. What do you think? Do you have a preference--or do you swing both ways?

I used a combo of both. I hem by hand for the most part, and I've never sewn on a button by machine. I know it's technically possible, because I've seen how to do it in my manual, but I've never even tried.

Mostly machine. I used to do a lot more by hand, but last year I was selling garments and trying to get as much made as possible. And when I looked at the hatchet job some of my cohorts were doing, anchoring waistband facings to zippers by machine, it was hard to resist lowering my own standards to get more made. I'm sorry.

I use a combination of both, but I am leaning more toward hand stitching these days. I ordered a book from Amazon just over the weekend that teaches couture sewing techniques. I LOVE the look of hand stitching on just about anything. And I love to feel the fabric in my hands.

Mostly by machine: if I'm making something, I want to be able to throw it in the machine with all my other clothes. It has to be sturdy enough to get through that wash 'n' spin! I do a bit of hand tacking, and sew my buttons on by hand, but that's about it. I have however made a sample quilt (150cm x 150 cm) by hand however. Yes, all of it. I'm stll actually quilting the sucker though! I button quilted it however, so I can use it!

I'm very much like you: I tend to blend both hand sewing and machine techniques. It depends largely on the project; for items that are for a special occasion or will be sent to the dry cleaners (like some of my wool pencil skirts), I put a lot more time and effort into hand sewn techniques and finishes. Those are my "couture" garments, and the softness and precision I can attain while hand sewing is well worth the extra time and effort it takes.

For everyday garments, I have no problems taking the machine route! Although nine times out of ten I'll still use some hand sewing (like hems... But I always save my garments that need to be hemmed for doing in the evenings while I'm relaxing. :). I think for me, sewing starts to loose it's pleasure if I skip a process that I enjoy (hand sewing) when I don't need to for time's sake. I think too it largely relies on what sort of machine you have. For instance my older Singers would balk at sewing a button on by machine (if they even could... I'm not sure even the newer "vintage" on can!). While my Kenmore wouldn't have a problem (however it does need to be serviced and is sitting in "time out" until I drop it off at the repair place! :p).

Overall, I think for the home sewist an ability to draw from a variety of techniques is really useful. For some people having the ability to whip out sturdy garments quickly (sewing for children springs to mind) is a must. But it's still worth cultivating some of hand sewing skills as well.

Hi Gertie!,Last July for my birthday, I bought a new sewing machine, an Elna 6200. It was a huge upgrade from my Singer I had since 1983. With the new machine, I am definitely doing less hand sewing. New machines have such flexibility with the stitches. But 2 things I always do by hand. Hand picked dress zippers and enclosed linings where you don't want the stitch to show through the front. For me, stitching by hand is a relaxing chill time in the sewing process. So I would never give up hand sewing. on the other hand I'm so astonished of all the feet you can use to achieve a look I can't help ape ing more time on the machine. Shirring is my new kick!

I don't get why hand-sewing and machine-washing should exclude each other. I throw everything into the washing machine, with the exception of steel-boned corsets, which I handwash. Silk, wool, whatever. But I line-dry, I don't even own a dryer. Silk and wool go into the gentle or handwashing cycle with a special laundry agent, no or just a little tumbling (max 500rpm), and then hanged to dry dripping wet. Yes, that also goes for my (hand-hemmed) silk satin ball gown, my silk taffetta evening skirt, my sheep fleece-interlined wool coat and my bras. I haven't ever suffered any losses that way.

That being said, I use hand-sewing where neccessary, but I do as much as I can by machine, lazy as I am. Neccessity is relative - if a garment includes no topstitching, for example, I will attach the lining by hand, if it has one, and definitely hand-hem to avoid visible stitching. If there is tpstitching, however I'll use the machine for everything. I always hand-baste zippers, too. I feel much safer that way.I admire your dedication to couture techniques, though, and sometimes wish I could muster quite as much patience. I would also like to read a guest column by your friend. I bet she could provide a lot of interesting and valuable insight and tips!

I can't stand hand sewing! I do as little of it as possible. It's just far too time consuming. I'm with your sample-room friend - efficiency is everything!p.s. I am so glad I now know how to sew buttons on by machine!

I love that you hand sew a lot. And since reading your blog I've picked up more hand sewing. I used to never hand sew, I was taught to do everything by machine. My Grandmother taught me and she worked in a factory sewing so she did everything by machine.

I love curling up in the sofa beside my man and do some hand stitching for the final finishing of a garment. However, I love, and are always surprised by, the efficiency of the sewing machine. I could never skip one of the two. I've tried doing it all by machine, but sometimes you just want to give more care to the garment. My last zipper was hand stitched, but the hem was not. That might have had something to do with meeting a deadline, though...

I don't really enjoy hand-sewing, partially because it hurts (I have carpal tunnel) and partially because it is so slow. I prefer having a new garment to wear over knowing that I used couture techniques. That being said, there are times that I don't mind hand sewing because it gives me more control. I have to admit that hand-basting the silk organza around the neckline of the Crepe (at your suggestion) was quite satisfying. But I still prefer the machine. I admire all of the hand-sewing that you do, Gertie! I am just too impatient, I guess :)

There's a wonderful movie about Valentino (Valentino: The Last Emperor, 2008); in it, his partner Giancarlo talks about having bought a sewing machine for their sample makers. He says they never used it. Not once. Eventually, they just got rid of it. I think that's beautiful. The quality and fluidity of his designs is incontrovertible.

I am a dedicated machine seamstress because, yes, I machine-wash pretty much everything. I even machine-stitch hems.

I do, however, baste a lot (always by hand, for better control), sew buttons by hand, and finish some seams by hand (turned in and whipstitched). I've done buttonholes by hand but was recently given a newer machine that, hopefully, will do buttonholes better than my old machine. I hate hand-sewing buttonholes.

As a kid, I hand-sewed EVERYTHING, including an entire dress I designed and made when I was 11-- I even set the zipper in by hand.

As an adult, however, I always hated having to slow down to do the hand-sewing bits (particularly necessary when sewing with vintage patterns) because I was always "stealing" time out of my busy schedule to sew. As a result, I did not have time to do the hand-sewing well, if at all.

This year, I have been on sabbatical and have taken up millinery. Hat-making requires oodles of hand-sewing. To do it, I had to learn lots of couture techniques. And I LOVED it! It is so lovely to be able to take the time to sew something really, really well and have it look great. And so, given the luxury of TIME, I find that I am a convert: I love hand-sewing! It makes me feel connected to the heritage of couture, though I am in now way ready to get a job in an atelier! :)

It really depends. I haven't found a way to sew seed beads on to a belly dance costume by machine(and I can't see how they'd be more secure). But then again, if I need a costume in a hurry the machine is your friend.

i don't mind combining machine & hand-sewing. i think there are certain tasks that require certain techniques - for example, i won't sew a "blind hem" using a machine because it always looks awful, and definitely not blind. hand-sewing is better for that. but as far as sewing the structural seams in a garment, i see no reason why i can't use the machine. of course, i do enjoy hand-sewing... i find it very relaxing & satisfying.

Generally, I prefer to do the bulk of my sewing on the machine, but it is nice sometimes to sit and watch tv and hand sew. I'm also self-taught and sew on a hand-me down machine with one foot so I don't really know how to do lots of things on my machine. And it sews crap button holes so I do a lot of bound ones.

I truly suck at handsewing & my sewing & knitting projects always languish in that almost-done state for ages until I bite the bullet & do the handsewing parts. I'm not sure why I'm so resistant, because once I get started, I don't mind it so much. The getting started is a major chore for me, though.

Yeah... I'm with ParisGrrl on the call for a guest column by that friend of yours. I would love to save time on handstitching! (Though I would still do it on those certain garments where you just want that couture finnish!)

I think hand sewing and machine sewing should go hand in hand together.. not go against each other. I will stitch all the seams/zips ect by machine but i do enjoy finishing off projects by hand for example an invisible hem or closing up the lining along the zip so you can't see the stitches from outside.

I hate to sew by hand! I am too impatient and my stitches are always crooked and uneven. I use my machine whenever possible, and tend to use the serger for everything unless I'm topstitching or something that requires the regular sewing machine. But, if I am to finish any sewing project, I can't dawdle because I have 3 kids ages 4, 2, and 2, so my sewing time is limited. As such, I don't really tackle anything that is terribly involved like you do. Simple, quick, and easy, or I buy ready-made. Maybe someday I'll be on that level, but I'm definitely not there yet.

Prior to the Lady Grey sew along, I hated/dreaded hand sewing. But I think that was mostly because I wasn't all that practiced and felt like I was not very good at it. I wonder if that is true for others, too. But now that my skills have improved, I like sitting on the couch next to hubby with a project when I would otherwise just be sitting in front of the tube.

That said, I love my SM and am always interested in new tips/techniques. So, I second the idea of a guest post.

I like sewing by hand for some things, like sewing facings down on a cuff where I can do a totally invisible stitch. I also like the pretty tacking stitch on the pleat in a lining in contrasting thread. I've never been successful with hand done buttonholes and also sew all of my buttons on by machine. I love my computer sewing machine and my serger and my many feet which simplify many jobs and end up looking more professional then I could ever do by hand. Some things I start out wanting to sew by hand like omayage.

I too am a sample sewer, and it's all about speed and efficiency. On the other hand, I am also a professional tutu maker, which is about hand work and machine work. Tutus take hours to make and are very gratifying when complete, for me it's all about the process.I guess I do swing both ways :)

I'm a machine girl all the way. While I'd love to sew by hand, I am SOOOO bad at it. Plus, I think I don't quite have the patience for it. I'd love to her more "tricks of the trade" - the scotch tape over buttons is brilliant!!

When hand sewing, I feel a connection to the past, which I don't when sewing with my machine. I get all nostalgic and feel like I'm on Little House on the Prairie, but I'm sure those women would have given anything to have the speed and ease that a sewing machine affords. I do a lot with both and could not give up either.

10 years ago I was a firm fan of hand-stitching, I even constructed an evening gown entirely by hand, no machine work (the only machine I had access to I didn't like and it didn't like me!).

I was used to hand-sewing so my stitches were neat and petite. Now I am far too out of practice to consider it and I get a confidence from the machine that my seams are stronger for using it although I sometimes reinforce those by hand too!

But I still hand-finish a lot of my work: hems (except narrow-rolled, if the hem in miles long, I do that on the machine!), slipstitching facing and bias-tape, attaching ribbons, lace and trim, sewing on buttons, sometimes zippers. I now deliberate between hand or machine sewing button holes, my old machine was better at them than I am, my new machine is not!

And I enjoy the change in pace, you are right that there is a tactile pleasure to hand-sewing plus it can be done anywhere!

I work the same way when making and repairing costumes. The machine is necessary for speed but it is just as quick and perhaps sturdier, to do some sections (usually the internal construction, external trimmings and repairs) by hand.

I do seams by machine but the rest feels more "special" to me if I do it by hand. When you turn the hem you can do embroidery stitches instead of straight ones & that NEVER looks the same done by machine

I try to do as much as possible by machine. I like the speedy aspect of it. However, if I were going to tailor a coat or make some special details, hand would be my choice. It's funny when I bought my sewing machine, a Baby Lock Decorators Choice, the woman selling it to me told me that "hand" was a 4-letter word... Since I can apply cording, blind hem, sew a button etc with all the foot attachments.

I use both; I prefer machine, but there are many times that I just can't get the look I want by machine a lot of the time, so I do it by hand. Sure it takes more time, but I'm also someone who knits her own socks, so I'm willing to spend the extra time to make it look like I want it.

I really enjoy time in my LazyBoy recliner with a sewing project in my lap, an old movie on Netflix and a refreshing beverage. Anytime I reach a fork in the road, if hand-sewing might give better results, I am on that LazyBoy in a heartbeat. BTW, Claire Schaffer says NOT to sew on your lap (in her Couture sewing DVD). But I don't follow her advice on that one :)

I tend towards machine sewing, if only to avoid the aches and pains in my hands that hand sewing induces. But much like driving in traffic, I prefer to know as many alternate routes as possible. There are times when hand sewing really is the faster, less fiddly way to sew, rather than trying to get just the right angle in the sewing machine. There are times when hand finishing an edge will make all the difference between "home made" and "custom made". But there are also times when using the machine to attach a button and bind the button hole can be the difference between being able to button said button later with arthritic hands. Or when machine sewing a hem is the difference between sleeping tonight and wearing it tomorrow, or staying up all night hand sewing.

There's a time and place for all sewing techniques, hand and machine, carefully finished and quick and dirty. I love picking up couture techniques just as much as I love picking up sample making techniques, as both get me to my desired destination -- a garment I can be proud of -- via different routes at different times.

Machine all the way until I get to the buttons and then I hand sew because handsewn button stay on better. Yep, everything has to go through that machine. And I haven't bought any clothes in a few years now so I sew fast. If I want to hand sew I embroider something. I absolutely loathe machine embroidery.

I hate hand sewing because it irritates my RSI. Having said that, I do buttons and hems by hand. Everything else? Machine. No hand-worked buttonholes or hand picked zippers here! I also wash everything in the machine, and hand sewing doesn't hold up that way.

I try to find the best of both worlds. I find that hand sewing gives me greater control in some applications. Also, the process. The handling of the fabric and watching the piece come together, by hand.

I fully agree with your comment. "To be a versatile seamstress, you really do need to have an arsenal of skills ready to go at any given moment." That is the "school of sewing" philosophy that I was taught in and continue to learn in! I feel that once you put that philosophy into place in the foundation of your sewing skills, it only makes you FREE to be more creative IN sewing. It then goes away from "(Wo)man vs. machine" to "Woman uses machine as one of the tools of her aresenal of versatile AND varied sewing skills to sew whatever she wants, and express her full creative style in the clothing she sews. It won't matter what the garment is and sometimes does not matter how longs or short a time it takes to make it, the versatile seamstress is the woman who wins the victory in THAT battle- ALL THE TIME! THANKS Gertie for the comment! Be well!

I fully agree with your comment. "To be a versatile seamstress, you really do need to have an arsenal of skills ready to go at any given moment." That is the "school of sewing" philosophy that I was taught in and continue to learn in! I feel that once you put that philosophy into place in the foundation of your sewing skills, it only makes you FREE to be more creative IN sewing. It then goes away from "(Wo)man vs. machine" to "Woman uses machine as one of the tools of her aresenal of versatile AND varied sewing skills to sew whatever she wants, and express her full creative style in the clothing she sews. It won't matter what the garment is and sometimes does not matter how longs or short a time it takes to make it, the versatile seamstress is the woman who wins the victory in THAT battle- ALL THE TIME! THANKS Gertie for the comment! Be well!

Anything I can sew by machine, I will gladly do so. My only limit is my kinda not great machine (tho' for the past month, I've been borrowing my mom's newer, fancier machine, which is amazing & does things my junker can't! love this).

For me, sewing isn't about the process, it's about the end result. I love to design new outfits & envision what they'll turn out like & how I'll wear them. Sewing is a means to an end. The machine is the fastest route to my goal. If there are things the machine can't do, I'll sew by hand, but I don't really get off on the physical act of sewing. It's merely a necessary task to me.

I've done both, will do both, but if a machine will do it nicely, I give permission. Hemming and mending...to be honest, sometimes it's just easier to hand sew. For instance, I just altered hemlines on 5 pair of my husband's slacks, sewed on 5 assorted buttons, and resewed a ripped soccer jersey seam. These were all quicker to do by hand; just filling the bobbins would take time.

I do both. I cannot get the hang of the blind hem foot on either of my machines, but I can do a pretty mean blind hem by hand. Because of my blog reading, I've actually taken up sewing in zippers by hand once in a while, though I've also fallen in love with the invisible zipper.

I hand sew on ALL buttons, but that is because nothing cheeses me off more than a button that is sewn on by machine. One little loose thread and there you are, in a rush, with mismatched thread, trying to tack it back on so you can get to work and not flash anyone.

I'm a cross sticher and bead freak too, so I guess that goes into my enjoyment of handsewing.

As a bad girl sewer, I have my machine set up in the living room because my sewing room is too lonely. I watch a lot of movies and tv shows while I sew, so most of my garments have memories attached to them. For instance, the dress I'm wearing today was nearly finished while I watched "Pirhana" last weekend. I keep seeing people getting their face eaten off, but that's the memory attached to this dress now.

BTW - my word verification for this was "sperm". Who thinks of this stuff?

I hand-sew all of my projects. Because I travel a lot and cannot take a machine wherever I go. But it also became a little passion of mine. My last big project was a coat, which I love. The fact that it's completly handsewn feels like a little hidden luxurious extra to me.I wash these garments like all other clothes, depending on the fabric, not the seams and I've never had any problems. Also, I can't say that hand sewn garments are less sturdy, it depends on the technique that is used. People often ask me how long it takes to hand-sew something. But actually now, with practice, I don't need much more time compared to when I was using a machine.A personal benefit is that I am forced to sew more thoughtful and I can't rush my work, like I sometimes did when I was machine sewing. I am rather impatient at times and this paces and relaxes me.

I agree with Threadless 27: why can't you machine wash handsewn items? If it's a decent backstitch or other sturdy stitch, I don't see how it's any less strong than what a machine could do. John Henry FTW!

And Deborah Raymond, it's interesting that you mention Little House on the Prairie because I just re-read These Happy Golden Years, the second to last book in the series, in which Ma gets a sewing machine in time to help Laura make her trousseau (there's a lot of sewing in this book). The machine was indeed a godsend for making sheets and other things with mile-long seams. When Laura proposes the idea, Ma says," Our grandmothers would turn in their graves, but after all, these are modern times." (Of course she also says"...such beautiful stitching. The best of seamstresses could not possibly equal it by hand." Which distressed me a little, but then mew technologies always prompt fevered rhetoric.)

I prefer to combine hand sewing and machine stitching, with an emphasis on hand work. I don't do it because I want to be slow for the sake of being slow, but because I have more control and get better results.

I'm not surprised that a sample maker would use a machine for virtually everything. The garment ultimately will be made by sewers in a factory using machines. Hand sewing would drive up the price.

I tend to sew the long seams by machine and save the handwork for the finishing details. Not only do I enjoy sewing by hand, but there really are some techniques that can only be accomplished by hand. I've hemmed the armhole openings of dresses for my baby girl, and I use straight bands of fabric to face round neck openings.

Hand sewing is my meditation...machine my thrill! I much prefer hand sewing for its therapeutic qualities but mainly because I can and am good at it. Saying that though, my Xmas present was a brand new Bernina which is slowly taking over the banal jobs that are usually put to the bottom of the sewing pile.

I am a teacher of machine sewing.I am also a designer of children's clothing - those are all made by hand.Hand sewing gives you total control - no mistakes! It is relaxing, and really does not take more time.

When I first started sewing, I did everything by hand because I didn't have access to a machine. Hours and hours of backstitching later, I bought the absolute cheapest machine I could find and have been using it happily for the last seven years. I try to avoid hand sewing now, but mostly because the lighting in my apartment is terrible. I save it for princess seams and sleeves, mostly.

I find hand sewing relaxing and you can do it while watching TV. It kind of annoys my family if I try to sew on my machine while they are watching something ;) I feel like I have better control for some things too. For example, I have never had any luck catching the facing of a waistband with top-stitching on the waistband. Many patterns ask for it and it always looks horrible when I attempt it. So I usually sew the facing down by hand. I use to sew the facing to the zipper by hand until I saw three tutorials in a row on how to do it by machine and I must say it gives a professional result -- though a little dismayed at a previous poster calling it a hatchet job method :-/

It really depends on the project. The last dress I worked on was a made with heavily sequined & embroidered tuelle so I spent ages basting it to organza & the dress lining. All the hems were hand-picked & I really only used the machine for the side seams & for putting a casing on the seam allowances (those sequins are itchy!). But one of my next projects will be a simple sateen sundress & I expect that I will use my machine every step of the way.

Mostly machine for me with some hand sewing. I prefer the way jacket and coat linings sit when I sew them in by hand. I do my hems by hand and I secure facings by hand. How ever, I do believe I would enjoy doing special little extra things by hand if I knew how.

I think there's a zen to hand sewing. When I have time, I love to sit in front of my television and hem a nice big circle skirt (until I'm about 10 feet in I guess). I feel more pride in my work when I do hand sewing. Of course there are instances where everything on a garment is machine sewn because that's what time allows. (Like for my 5 year old, who's so rough on her clothes, it's not worth my effort to hand sew parts of it.)

I'm a machine person except when I have one of those very special projects that I really want to do slowly and enjoy the process. The main reason I go the machine route started from wanting to discover the "secret sewing techniques". You know, the techniques that the pattern companies would never tell us about and just told us to sew by hand instead. I knew that the RTW factories were not sitting around have their workers doing hand sewing. Now, I get so excited when I find a new machine technique :)