DOES THE ENGINE TURN OVER(CRANK)? IF IT CRANKS BUT NO START THE TWO WHITE WIRES FROM THE IGNITION CYLINDER IN THE STEERING COLLUMN ARE PROBABLY BROKEN AND WILL NOT SEND THE RESISTANCE FROM THE KEY TO THE SECURITY MODULE. IF THIS IS THE PROBLEM YOU NEED TO CHENGE THE IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER OR INSTALL A RESISTOR UNDER THE DASH THAT IS THE SAME RESISTANCE AS THE KEY ON THOSE TWO WHITE WIRES. SORRY BUT SOUNDS LIKE YOU NEED A MECHANIC/TECH WITH KNOWLEDGE OF THIS PROBLEM TO HELP YOU.

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Are you certain the security has not immobilized the car? If it isn't a security issue, there is probably a problem in the start circuit.
If you check for power on the small starter solenoid wire, with the key held in crank, and no power is on that wire-the start circuit from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid has a problem. If the wire does have power with key in cranking position, probably a bad connection from battery to starter, since you have a new starter.
To be certain the engine is not locked up, put a socket and wrench on the crankshaft pulley center bolt and turn the engine over by hand a revolution or so.

I would check the ignition switch. With a test light, check the small wire going to the solenoid for power when someone turns the key to the starting position. If you aren't getting power to that terminal on the starter, the ignition switch is not sending power to the solenoid.

to correctly solve your problem you need to regretfully take the vehicle to dealership and have the computer re-promed for aftermarket ignition, ignition security not only cut off coil ignition but also fuel consumption

If I understand you right, the problem is the engine will not crank, that is turn over when you turn they
ignition key to START. Having said
that, might it be that the issue is with the starter system. The
starter system is initiated at the ignition switch when the key is
turned to start. At this point, the ignition switch then provides
+12VDC to a starter relay (if the vehicle has got one) or direct to the starting solenoid. The relay is but a remote switch with
slightly higher amperage capacity. The starter relay then engages and
supplies +12VDC to the staring solenoid. The starting solenoid then
performs two (2) functions. It provides the switching action (hundreds
amps) from the battery heavy cable to the actual starter motor. The
solenoid likewise pushes a small pinion gear along the shaft of the
starter motor to engage the ring gear. The ring gear is of course on
the edge of the flywheel which in turn is attached to the crankshaft.

Starter system problems could be corrected by:1. check battery, battery cables and connections;2. charge the battery if required;3. clean brushes and guides of brush holders of the starter motor;4. clean the commutator and commutator segments;5. check/replace the armature or field coils if determined to be defective;6. in some extreme cases it could be the drive pinion or the flywheel gear ring is defective. 7. often it is the big switch that the solenoid activates that looses contacts causing no +12V internally to the motor.8.
Most likely would be a defective starter relay or the IGN switch
itself. Relative to this, you might try and check the
connectors/terminals and electrical joints.

In the picture below, the upper portion is the starter solenoid while the one below it is the actual starter.Given the amount of work to overhaul a starter, you might consider just replacing it.

So recommended course of action is determine if there is +12VDC at the starter solenoid when IGN switch is turned to START.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.