Welcome to NikonForums.com
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!

Javascript Disabled Detected

You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality.

The 18-140 is pretty much designed to be a DX version of an all around lens that is easy to leave on the body unless you are looking to do some more specialized shooting.

Action is very generic, however you also mentioned kids with the action. That can be rather specialized shooting that requires different glass. With that my mind goes to kids playing sports. If so, indoor or outdoor? The 70-300 or an 80-400 would work reasonably well for daytime outdoor sports. For night sports or indoor sports, you would probably need (or want) the more expensive 70-200 due to the 2.8 aperture which will allow you to shoot in lower light. Typically here in the US, as kids reach high school, they end up playing more games on lighted fields where the 70-200 is almost a requirement. Of course, that is pretty much true for indoor sports at any age due to the less than perfect lighting you encounter...As Peter calls it, "available dark"...

I believe there are a variety of video modes you can select that allow different frame rates, but it would be through selecting that mode and not through using shutter priority. It is likely somewhere in your menu system under Video - the manual should tell you how to set / select your desired option.

Agree. There are those who can hand hold at slower speeds than others. The old rule was to use the size of the lens (or the longest # on a zoom) as a reference so that with a 70-200, 1/200 would be the recommended slowest shutter speed. But with the TC2.0 it would be 1/400. It is simply a guideline. I know people who can hand hold at significantly slower speeds and I know those who struggle to get tack sharp images with those #s. As I've gotten older, I know I can't shoot at the slower speeds in some cases.