i did this about 2 months ago as i had oil leaks from the front timing chain case & sump , its a pig of a job & i would'nt recommend anyone doing it unless they really want to or are good on the spanners , but heres the lowdown
take all the belts off, rad fan cowl & fan , air flow meter , trunking & rocker cover, dizzy cap & remove the crank sensor & drain the coolant .

top parts removed

undo the 8 bolts on the bottom pulley & the 4 bolts on the top one & they should pull off , now the hardest part , removing the bottom primary pulley , its held on the crank by a 36mm head bolt & its well tight about 300lbs ft , you need a special tool to hold the crank but i didnt have this so i took a 36mm socket on a long power bar locked the end of the bar on the floor on the LHside , flicked the engine over & prayed :? & low & behold it came undone ,once all the front ancillary parts were off i went on to remove the sump , you need to take off a semi circular shaped flywheel housing off first which is held on by 8 bolts , also the whole alternator & bracket needs to come off as its joined to the sump the p/s pump & brkt & the air con compressor brkt needs removing too but you dont need to disconnect the comp, then undo all the sump bolts & tap it with a mallet & it should break free but you need to undo the 2 engine mounting nuts & jack up the engine far enough for the sump to clear , then a bit of playing around you should have the sump clear

now you can loosen all the upper & lower timing case covers & they should just pull off

all parts i removed plus my M6 a/roll bar that was going on after

covers off

now i cleaned all mating surfaces of the block & covers applied black silicone sealant & fitted the gaskets , on the upper cover you need to take out the chain tensioner plunger to get the cover on watch out for the spring in the plunger, when the covers are bolted on refit the plunger & lower cover also on the lower cover i replaced the front crank seal too . Refit the sump & lower the engine back down on its mounts , then fit the primary bottom pulley , i jammed a prybar in the flywheel teeth & tightend the 36mm bolt up tight as i could as my t/wrench didnt go up high enough, i refitted all the other parts & then it was finnished , it took me about 15 hours off & on but important ly only cost me ?23 for parts

rmorin49 wrote:What would be the approximate cost of having this work completed by a competent indy mechanic?

The hard part is if the hub nut doesn't want to come off of the crank (it's torqued to 325 ft/lbs.), then it it becomes a real bear of a job. Make sure any shop you use has access to the tools needed to get the crank nut off, i.e. the hub holder, a machined 36mm socket and a torque multiplier and adapters. Not all shops are going to have them.