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Sounds like you might have a major vacuum leak, now does you truck have a power brake booster or is it hydraulic system. If booster you have an eternal leak a bad one. Now on idle, hand brake on, if you set it in nuetral does it idle nice now when you put in gear like drive does it start missing like it wants to die if so you have a bad brake booster. Let me know what you have. Good luck.

ok , i guess you are saying the engine stalls when I use heavy electrical loads (like head lamps or brakes or even blinkers)
and when you shift from park to drive.
ok , if the engine RPM is 800 before the stall, then that is a total loss
of engine power with lost of idle controls.

The big load is in DRIVE on automatics huge going to DRIVE.

if battery voltage (yes, a 10 buck walfart meter works) can see 13.3 to 15vdc idling at 800 or more RPm.
the Alternator does not work below 800 so , dont expect it to.

so, if rpm in park is below 800 then we fix that first, see why?
if idle drops below 800 this is caused buy many things.
one vital fact missing is you didnt say, if I drive it like a stole it.
that is aggressive right foot. , do you have full engine power, now?
ignoring stalls. (see my drift there, "is engine power good;?)

Normally if an engine is not running as it should the vehicle will slow down a bit but normally it would not feel like the brakes are being applied. This almost sounds like the transmission is shifting down to a lower gear. The big danger is, with no brake lights coming on, someone could hit you from the rear. This could be life threatening and is much too hard to analyze from afar. I suggest you get it to a reputable shop that has electronic analyzer. That should get this problem figured out before you get injured. Best of luck.

Most throttle bodies have an idle adjustment screw that controls how fast the engine runs at idle. All you should have to do is set the idle a little faster and that should fix your problem. I would also recommend getting the Hane's or Chilton's repair manual that is specific to your car. It'll cost you about 25$ but it will cover every aspect of fixing your car, so instead of guessing, you can find out exactly what you want to know. Including where the fast idle adjustment is. Good luck!

the rool back is down to slack in the drive line,
ie prop and back lash in the diff, there will also be some back lash in the gear box as well, this is completly normal so dont worry about it,, however you should all ways keep the foot drake on till you have put the habd brake on then and only them slip it into park as if you keep letting it rool back and stoping in park you could snap of the park claw inside the auto gear box, that a pricy repair, so please hold the brakes on before you go into park,,,
as for the stalling part,,, how fast is the tick over when warm and in gear (in drive with foot brake on)
if its less that 850 rpm thats the problem,,, auto's realy dont like a slow tick over, there is a lot of drag on an auto box, at tick over it should hold your car from rolling back on a slight hill or even drive up it with out you putting any power on to make it pull away, they also creep forwards in gear by them selfs, thats normal too,,safe,happy driving!!!!!!!

Assuming that the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, it looks like the torque converter lock-up system doesn't release as fast as it should, so if you brake hard, the converter is still locked up and your wheel brakes stall your engine (just like pressing ******* the brakes with the clutch pedal released on a manual transmission vehicle). Normally, when you brake hard, the lock-up should release and prevent the stall from happening. Might be a bad torque converter, or a bad lock up solenoid in the transmission... Before jumping to anything else, i'd try checking the fluid level in the transmission and an oil/filter change in the transmission. Lots of times one or the other can cure the problem.