Porsche Boxster » Porsche Boxster Repairs

Porsche Boxster Repairs

Resolved Out-of-Warranty Issues

Problem: Foam blowing out the vents, temperature control of the heating/cooling air no longer works.Dealer: My garageDate: March-2017Description:
The flapper that diverts air through or around the heater core, and the flapper that switches between recirculated and outside air, are covered with foam. When the foam starts to dry-rot due to age, it falls off and starts blowing out of the vents. Even worse, the metal plate to which the foam attaches is not solid but rather has multiple large opening in it, meaning that air blows through the flaps and is no longer diverted. So hot and cold air are always mixed, and inside/outside air is always mixed, and the air temperature can no longer be adjusted. I used this method to repair/recover the flaps, which just required removing the radio and is much easier than removing the entire dash and HVAC unit.

Problem: Bolts that hold the convertible top receiver to the windshield header fell out. Cast brass nut inserts split and failed.Dealer: My garageDate: November-2016Description:
All of the bolts that go into the windshield header are likely to eventually fail. This is because the nuts inside the windshield are cast brass and don’t hold up over time. The only way to access the nuts is to remove the windshield. To permanently resolve the problem, drill-out and extract the brass nuts and then install M6x1.0 x 15mm long rivet nut inserts using a Rivet Nut installer tool. Full installation instructions here.

Problem: Windows would roll down about 3 inches while drivingDealer: My garageDate: June-2006Description:
The convertible top micro-switch was being tripped when driving over bumps. The switch inaccurately sensed that the convertible top latch was open. Replacing the micro-switch did not fix the problem. The micro-switch had to be modified to add extra padding (a piece of electrical tape) around switch button, making sure the top latch fully engaged the switch when it was closed.

Problem: Large amounts of white smoke out of the exhaust after hard, high engine speed acceleration followed by immediate closed throttle.Dealer: My garageDate: Aug-2005Description:
Engine oil level over filled. This caused the Closed Crankcase Ventilation system to deposit engine oil mist into the intake manifold when there were high levels of vacuum (closed throttle at high engine speeds). Solution: lower oil level, clean out intake manifold.

Problem: Ignition switch will not return to the Run position from the Start position, resulting in no accessory power.Dealer: My garageDate: June-2004Description:
Ordered a replacement for electrical portion of ignition switch from Autohaus, part number 4A0 905 849. Update: do not install this part – it will fail in a different way than the original part. See updated failure/replacement above for June-2016.

Problem: Convertible top not closing properlyDealer: Carlton’s GarageDate: Jan-2004Description:
The top seams would not line-up properly with the rails above the side windows, just as it was before. I tightened the tension cables for the top, located at the sides of the compartment below the back window. Also adjusted a small arm (held in place by two torx screws) located near the side window frame, accessible when the top is 70% open. Problem resolved.

Resolved Warranty Issues

Problem: Abnormal wear of the convertible top fabricDealer: Beechmont PorscheDate: Jun-03Description:
The top was experiencing abnormal wear in the fabric at the outer edges of where the wear window fold occurs. Top replaced under warranty.Problem: Convertible top not closing properlyDealer: Beechmont PorscheDate: Jan-00Description:
The top would not close properly above the drivers window. This problem occurred the first time I closed the top on the day I brought the car home.

Problem: Calibration Update (Vehicle Speed Correction)Dealer: Beechmont PorscheDate: Jan-00Description:
The indicated vehicle speed is approximately 5% higher than the actual vehicle speed. The odometer reading was approximately 5% higher than the actual miles traveled. Porsche released a new calibration that corrected the problem. Click here for more info on the problem from my fuel economy page.

Problem: Drivers window would roll-down on it’s own after parking the carDealer: Tom Wood PorscheDate: Jun-00Description:
Several time, I returned to my car to find the drivers window rolled down about 6 inches. The motor for the window was replaced and the problem has been resolved.Problem: Replaced seal on fuel filler capDealer: Tom Wood PorscheDate: Jun-00Description:
As part of a campaign from Porsche, the seal on the fuel filler cap was replaced during a warranty visit. I did not notice a problem with the filler cap.

Porsche 986 Boxster Idle Problem:

Engine surges and starts to die when returning to idle
Dealers: Beechmont Porsche, Tom Wood Porsche
Service Dates: 1/00, 6/00, 7/00, 5/01
Status: Still not fixedLink to PCA Question/Answer for similar problem

Idle Problem Update:

After 4 trips to 2 different dealers, the problem is still unresolved. Due to the extremely poor treatment I received at Tom Wood Porsche in Indianapolis, I decided to work exclusively with Beechmont Porsche in Cincinnati, OH.In June of 2000, I learned of a “DME upgrade” for the engine control software/calibration that would solve the problem. After 2 trips to Tom Wood, they finally tried to perform the update, realized that they didn’t know how to do a full DME recalibration, and called the regional service representative.

They were told by the regional service representative that it wasn’t new software, but rather a reinstallation of the same old software. It was previously believed that the initial software installation at the factory was incomplete and that reprogramming would correct the problem. This is no longer believed to be the case. According the the regional service rep, the “DME upgrade” didn’t solve the problem on the last 3 cars with which he had been involved. I’m still waiting to have this problem resolved.

The vehicle was since taken to Beechmont Porsche in Cincinnati, OH and extensive testing was performed and a factory representative was involved. The conclusion was that a new calibration needed to be developed for the engine computer. I have since been informed that a new calibration will not be made available and that there is no way to resolve this problem.

Idle Problem Description:

Click here for an MPEG movie showing the problem. (290 Kb)
The engine speed will droop well below the intended 800 RPM after depressing the clutch when returning to idle. The speed will droop as low as 600 RPM, at which point the engine starts to stumble and die before recovering and overshooting to 1000 RPM and then returning to the standard 800 RPM idle speed. This problem happens almost every time the car returns to idle, to varying degrees, when the air conditioner is activated by the climate control system.

Idle Problem Duplication:

The problem occurs under many different driving conditions but can be consistently duplicated using the following procedure:

Coolant temperature 170 degrees F or above.

Ambient temperature of approximately 80 degrees F or above

Air conditioner turned ON to lowest setting

Drive in second gear at about 2000 RPM

Lift foot from throttle and allow engine to motor (coast) down to about 1200 RPM.

Depress the clutch when engine speed reaches approximately 1200 RPM

Idle speed will drop to as low as 600 RPM, the engine will shake, stutter, and start to die

Engine will then recover by overshooting to 1000 RPM and then returning to 800 RPM (normal idle speed)

Picture From Step 7: Engine speed drops to 600 RPM and starts to shutter and die after depressing the clutch while driving. (Engine speed of just below 700 RPM shown in the picture – it was hard to capture 600 RPM with the digital camera.)

1. Make a sharp turn to either the left or the right with the clutch pedal depressed.

2. The power steering apparently adds excessive load to the engine, and engine speed droops to about 600 RPM, starts to die, then over-compensates to 1000 RPM, and recovers to the desired speed of 800 RPM.

Graph of Idle Problem:

Porsche has identified this problem to be engine computer calibration related. Here is a list of other possible causes I was told were ruled out by Porsche:

Technician knew next to nothing about the Porsche Electronic Service Tool

Did not fix all of my problems after the first visit but told me that they did

Did not fully investigate my complaints that they did not understand how to resolve

The service manager did not call me back after my second visit to let me know what he had found from the factory service representative in order to solve my problem.

The Dealership placed only one follow-up / survey phone call — but they left a message and never called back. They did not call me after my first visit at all. I was never able to give them my opinion of their service.

115 Comments

Thanks! The car is working again – just needed the new beru coil, but only thing is now the ignition / engine light is still on. Any ideas on how to fix that? Also either the roof light or boot light is always on. Maybe its just a faulty fuse?

Thanks! The fault code did go inactive on its own.
One more question and I’m done. Promise. The Porsche (1999 boxter) has water in front boot area, and also behind the drivers seat. Its been raining a bit lately and car was outside for a few days, but it is more than just a bit damp, its really quite wet.. in front boot – it was a puddle! Behind drivers seat is quite damp… Any ideas what this might be?

Hi, I need some input I love my 2000 Porsche Boxster but not sure what to do. I noticed I had some oil spots in my driveway so I brought it to the local import repair shop to be checked out before my extended warrenty expires and he told me I have a leak from my valve gasket seal, o-ring seal and oil net. Since I am a girl do you think he is feeding me a line? So I asked him how much to repair it and he said he does not fix leaks! I only have a few small oil spots and the car runs fine. Thoughts?

Oil leaks won’t cause any performance issues. The repair will mostly be labor taking the covers on and off to replace the gaskets. The gaskets themselves are relatively inexpensive. The rear main crankshaft seal is notorious for failure on these engines. They are a bit more labor intensive. Hopefully you don’t have that issue.

As far as the mechanic not fixing leaks, that’s idiotic. They should fix whatever they are paid to fix that is broken. Find a different mechanic.

I have a 1999 boxster. It periodically will not start and, at times, stall while driving. The car will turn over but no gas seems to be getting in. Recently, it has had new plugs and an oil change. The worst incident was when I accelerated at a green light and all the lights on the panel went on and the car died in the middle of intersection. Fortunately I had enough inertia to coast to side of road. I have taken it to one mechanic and I went out and bought a fuel pump relay but this did not correct it. What on earth is going on?

1998 Boxster with triptronic
Had the tranny rebuilt. It will upshift fine. Downshifts properly sometimes but most of the time it does not downshift till I come to a complete stop. If I switch to manual it would downshift properly. Sometimes it will downshift properly. Sometimes when I am coming to a stop I can see the shifting go from 5 to 4 then back to 5. Some reason it shifts back up. Any suggestions??

I have a 02 porsche boxster automatic 2.7, the car cranks (turn) but don’t start, I replaced the battery and check the starter (fine) the problem continue. Anybody have an idea that what could be the problem.

Hi, I just bought a 2000 Boxster and for two weeks, it was running beautifully. Last Friday, I took it to the car wash and the following morning it starting with a rough idle. The transmission is tentronic. I did not receive the cars owner manual with the car so I do not know what to do.

Hi there,
I have a 1999 Boxter Porsche, and it has just started making a loud whiring noise and feels a bit jumpy. About a week ago I topped up the oil with a 1 litre bottle, as the light came on after I put fuel in a few weeks before. Could I have put too much in? Its hard to read the dip-stick – Seems to cover all of the red.
It seemed to be a bit rough lately, thats why I though I should top up the oil – I know it also needs a service, but it costs so much I don’t think I can afford it right now.
I’m too scared to drive it now, if the engine blows up or something mad. Any ideas of what it might be?
Sarah.

If there is a check engine light, have it checked to see if that gives an indication as to the problem. If it was over-filled with oil, it will be easy for a mechanic to remove the rubber air intake hose to see if there is engine oil on the throttle assembly.

Several problems…2001 Porsche booster S…
CEL on.
Few oil spots on driveway each day.
High idle. When warm, it jumps to 1200 then down to 800rpm and does so over and over.
Seeks from riverside (left side) front end- any movement of the car when warm or after 30 minutes of driving causes squeaking. When going over bumps at a tangent there is also a clonk tak tak sound from that same side. When parked, I can reproduce the squeak by pressing or sitting on the front left fender. I had same exact problem with my previous boxster as well, but totalled it before I found the problem.
If anyone can help me with information on any of those issues, I’m forever humbled and grateful. Please gents, and ladies. I need you.

I had a really annoying squeak (creaking) from the front suspension on both sides of my boxster. I discovered that it came from the bottom swivel on the lower control arm. I cured the noise by making a tiny hole in the rubber boot covering the swivel and spraying a little wd40 inside. I learned of this trick from a video on you tube, type in “Why does my porsche boxster’s front suspension squeak, creak.

I have a 2000 Porsche Boxster S. This problem just started. There is no thortlle response for the first third of pedal movement, (and thus, the lack of power, as it seems as though there is now only 2/3 of thortlle left).

I think this would be described to a mechanic as hesitation. It’s most likely a bad mass air flow sensor causing under-fueling. This is somewhat common. It could also be oxygen sensors, but not as likely.

I replaced the engine in this car, after which I drove it and it ran excellent. the ignition switch failed and I had the mechanic replace it. In his wisdom the intake manifold was removed (not sure why). after which the car will start and idle perfectly. However, when you accelerate it, stopped or driving, it will not rev over 2000 rpm and will backfire, sputter when you do attempt more. I have had it checked (by another mechanic) and he advises the engine looses all vacuum pressure when accelerated. the engine is a 2.5l in a 99 Porsche Boxster

So my girlfriends 98 boxster started to do the idle issue not long ago. We took off the idle valve and took it apart. There is a pin that holds the two parts from spinning off. After spinning off the two halfs we cleaned them with maf cleaner. Dried it with compressed air and reassemble it. Idle is now rock steady at ~800 rpm I hope it helps someone, we where ready to buy a new one…

2004 boxster stalls at 179 degrees. restart rpm goes to 1000 rpm? Today it would not restart had to wait an hour until the engine cooled. the exhaust tone gets a bit deeper as well. however, the engine temp does not exceed about 185? Can this be a purge solenoid or another sensor?

I have an 03 base boxster and replaced the aos and drove the car about 50 miles and let it set,started it and still let out small amount of smoke and it smelled rich,other then that no codes and runs fine. Have any idea

Hi. I have a 1997 Boxster right Hand drive. But, I have had water coming under Drivers seat. Cant find Drainage To see if Blocked, Nothing in the Drivers Manual, Which is not very Good. Any Help would be Helpful

hello.my Boxster s 2001 has a very low battery it still go’s low on me, in just one night!..
My alternator works great! The car will run . I can tell there is an electrical drain on it, when I remove the positive cable while still on charge the chargers gauge moves higher, when cable is re-connected it drags it down a little.This drain is not something small, it is a very powerful drag like leaving headlights on.I don’t understand the test, because if you connect between the positive battery, and the positive battery cable with a voltmeter you will get 12.6, and that is what I get.Alternator works great, igition is not a problem, no lights left on

niki, I’m not sure what could be causing your problem. I’m experiencing a similar electrical issue, but only with the key switch on. The lights on the dash lights will flicker, the starter will sometimes not engage. It could be that it’s a bad alternator, or it could be something related to the vehicle control module going bad. Let me know if you figure out your issue and I’ll do the same.

I had similar issue. It may be related to old coolant. If it changes pH it can complete a circuit. Your water pump and radiator may be disintegrating if this is true. I killed 3 batteries in 5 years before my water pump failed and dumped all the coolant. No low batteries since then.

Carlton, got a question for you! I have a 99 Boxster 2.5 with 86K miles on it. My CEL popped on with the codes P1124 and P1126. No rough idle. No smoke. No stalling. Perfect acceleration, perfect shifting. Runs like when I bought it, which is awesome!! Nothing to indicate anything is wrong. I tried taking off the oil cap (thinking AOS) and was told that if the RPM’s dropped then that was ok. It dropped maybe to 750-700 (from a normal 800 range). Cannot hear any hissing or anything. I am totally perplexed at this. Thoughts on the matter?

Paul, those two fault codes are indicating that both exhaust oxygen sensors are reading out of specification. It could be that both are bad, but it’s more likely it’s something in the intake causing an issue that both sensors are detecting. The most likely cause is the intake mass air flow sensor. It could also be an air intake leak anywhere in the intake manifold (or air oil separator.) Less likely causes are the fuel system (fuel pump) not delivering enough fuel. I’d start with the mass air flow sensor, and be sure to use the genuine Porsche version as there are different versions that require different software versions in the computer; the Bosch aftermarket version is not compatible with all vehicles.

Ran across this thread below, which sounds almost exactly like the problem my 2000 Boxster S is having. A local Porsche speed shop tried unsuccessfully to install a Bosch aftermarket mass airflow sensor, along with all new O2 sensors. Surprise, surprise, the new Bosch MAF didn’t solve the uneven idle. But an older, faulty MAF installed as a control, cured the rough idle but threw trouble codes that were problematic for passing emissions.

Now, I have a new, overly-pricey Porsche OEM MAF sensor, a cleaned-up throttle body, both of which cleared the “check-engine” light but still left the car with that annoying up-and-down idle. I’m at wits end. Is the problem the replacement parts, the engine-management software, the service shop, or all three? Thanks. Greg

Reply
Carlton Bale
2015-July-13 at 9:51 pm
Paul, those two fault codes are indicating that both exhaust oxygen sensors are reading out of specification. It could be that both are bad, but it’s more likely it’s something in the intake causing an issue that both sensors are detecting. The most likely cause is the intake mass air flow sensor. It could also be an air intake leak anywhere in the intake manifold (or air oil separator.) Less likely causes are the fuel system (fuel pump) not delivering enough fuel. I’d start with the mass air flow sensor, and be sure to use the genuine Porsche version as there are different versions that require different software versions in the computer; the Bosch aftermarket version is not compatible with all vehicles.
Here’s a forum post that’s related: http://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/867915-1999-boxster-p1126-and-p1124.html

I have an 02 boxster S great fun car but I had the check engine light come on and took it to 2 shops and they said I needed to change the left and right catalytic converter to the tune of a total of $3700! How hard is it to change them out and are there any other alternatives? Putting $3700 in a car worth $9k is questionable. Suggestions?

Chuck, I haven’t heard of catalytic converters being a common problem, unless you have a failed air-oil separator and they get contaminated with oil residue. It’s much more likely that some or all of the oxygen sensors have failed, causing false reports of a bad catalytic converter. There is a set of pre-cat oxygen sensors (one on each left/right bank) that adjust air/fuel ratio of the engine. There are also two after-cat oxygen sensor that measure catalytic converter efficiency. Any of the pre-cat or after-cat sensors being bad can result in the “bad catalytic sensor” fault codes. The oxygen sensors aren’t cheap, but they are cheaper than new catalysts. I was able to replace them myself; you have to have access to the bottom of the car to get to them. Details here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/19-FUEL-02_Sensor/19-FUEL-02_Sensor.htm

I have a 1997 Porshe Boxster that recently bought. Poor preventive maintenance from the previous owner has lead into the following problem. The car idle is excellent, it starts excelent, but when you suddenly press the accelerator and it reaches 3,000 rpm the engine starts to die because fuel starving and progressively it starts to catch up again and accelerates fine. It happens in all conditions. I have done the following preventive maintenance to the car:
1- Change fuel filter (was very dirty, lots of sediment)
2- Clean fuel pump inlet screen (Fuel pump press is 47-55 psi) and repair fuel level indicator and tank seal.
3- service and clean all six fuel injectors
4- Change Spark Plugs
5- Change all 4 O2 Sensors
6- Clean and test MAF sensor
7- Test TPS

Have you checked to crankcase breather tube? That is prone to fail on that vintage and can cause symptoms similar to what you describe. I can’t remember the specifics, but I think unscrewing the oil filler cap at idle should cause a change in engine speed at idle. If the breather is failed, there will be no change.

My other thought would be the MAF. It causes that problem. Cleaning doesn’t help. Make sure you get the correct replacement part number as there were supersessions to new designs.

After inspecting the AOS system we found oil in the tube. Also there is a hard vaccum in the crancase that makes the oil cap been dificult to open. All these leads to a bad AOS. Just ordered it and waiting, soon as i install it I let you know the results. But after doing some research there is other thing that could cause this condition, a leak in the fuel pressure regulator. Do you agree? Any way I will wait for the AOS first and get back to you, thanks.

I think it’s the Air Oil Separator. I haven’t heard of issues with the fuel pressure regulator, but I suppose that might limit fuel flow and cause the problem you described. That would be the next thing to try if the AOS doesn’t fix the issue.

I just Receive the new AOS and still the same problem. After installing it I disconected tha MAF sensor and the engine die. Also when accelerating the engine you can smell something like rotten eggs while missfiring. I do have a video where you can look at the problem. Perform a Fuel pressure test on all conditions and the only thing is that when accelerating the presure goes up to 55 psi before normalizing in the 47 psi.

1- A bad MAF can be tested by disconecting it and you should have a better engine performance.

Why the engine is shutting down when you disconect the MAF? Why that rotten egg smell when accelerating?

Other tip is that when you spray starting fluid in the throttle the engine runs smooth. I read some where else that the egg rotten smell is the produce by the chemical reaction of the catalyc as a result of a rich mixture. Also in that specificc case it was that the Crank Pos sensor was bad as it was missing sending the signal every 3erd or four rev. I m going to check the CPS and get back to you..

Can you lead me to solution of Boxster Abnormal wear of the convertible top fabric? I saw this problem has been posted here for no solution.

Problem: Abnormal wear of the convertible top fabric
Dealer: Beechmont Porsche
Date: Jun-03
Description:
The top was experiencing abnormal wear in the fabric at the outer edges of where the wear window fold occurs. Top replaced under warranty.
Problem: Convertible top not closing properly
Dealer: Beechmont Porsche
Date: Jan-00
Description:
The top would not close properly above the

Got a 1997 Base model boxster, first i had a cooling fan problem so i switched the relays to see if that was the problem. It started to cool but the convertible top stopped working so I bought a new relay and now the a/c and heating system no longer works (no power to display or anything). I have already changed out the ignition switch (myself, but I am mechanically inclined). But I am human, so I may have messed up without knowing. Could you steer me in the right direction or off a cliff? Thanking you in advance!

Did you just replace the electrical portion of the switch, or the entire assembly including the new casting that attaches to the steering column (that’s required to use the new larger-diameter electrical switch?) If you didn’t upgrade to the new assembly, then the replaced electrical portion is probably going bad again.