You are unfortunately right. The AE 2000u only has a Horizontal "Stretch Mode" to allow accommodating a Anamorphic Lens, and it has no masking feature. (...you can set your screen within extra wide Black Velvet Top/Bottom Boarders...)

It was a superior PJ upon release, comparing favorably to the likes of the JVC DLA-RS-1, a PJ costing 2x as much.

But is a 7 year old Model...so ya gotta accept that you will be limited somewhat.

But take heart in knowing that you can get "Brand Nerw Performance" by purchasing a Replacement Lamp for only $149.99 ..............almost $260.00 less than it originally cost.

So I've recently upgraded from the ae2000u to the ae4000u so I could get the masking feature. And I've recently built a 2.35:1 screen as well.

My question for you MM (my favorite AVSF guru) is this, I setup what I think is the correct way to handle 2.35:1 masking on my ae4000u and I'm still getting a very faint light bleed around my screen.

I haven't calibrated my picture, it may be I just have it set too bright, but in dark scenes I can still see a small amount of light above and below my screen. It's definitely black, but there'd definitely light if I hold my hand up there I can see a my shadow. If I move the masks it waaaay brighter. But I guess what I'm saying is does the internal masking of this project just block out 95% of the light?

Yes...it is to be considered a partial masking, and if the surrounding wall area is in the lest reflective, in a total darkness situation you will be able to discern a very faint area.

Perfect I was thinking the same thing last night. It's on my light gray concrete walls now, but once I get the surrounding wall done I doubt I'll be able to see much! Thank you I knew you would know.

Next on my list is figuring the correct steps to setting the masking. Right now I have it ceiling mounted and the projector's height is parallel with the top of my screen. Not down in the middle of my screen. So I need to figure out how to make it so I can switch back and forth from 2.35 to 16:9. I have the settings now, but I didn't do it correctly because I have to manually drop the 16:9 back into frame using the controls on the top of the projector. I know there's a way to do this so that I don't need those manual adjustments. Just haven't figured out the sequence and the manual isn't very helpful.

Also a tiny detail in the manual could have saved me hours. If you keystone correct at all. The masking goes away. I lowered my projector a bit so I don't need the keystone. Now I have masking.

OK got it figured out. I aligned it all to the top so that when it scales to 2.35:1 it scales down into position. This works beautifully! Anyway back to making my new masking panels for left and right when watching a 16:9... this new PJ and screen are gonna keep me up for days...

Is it not necessary to paint or cover the wood before covering with the spandex? I would think with all of the light getting through the fabric it would bounce back off of the light wood creating hotspots where the wooden frame is or the frame would just show as if it were a different screen material. I have seen others cover or paint the wood frame first.

Is it not necessary to paint or cover the wood before covering with the spandex? I would think with all of the light getting through the fabric it would bounce back off of the light wood creating hotspots where the wooden frame is or the frame would just show as if it were a different screen material. I have seen others cover or paint the wood frame first.

Are you looking to create a Zero Edge, frame-less screen?

Only if the area covered is to be projected upon could there be sibilance of a issue, and even then, with two layers (...the usual recommendation...) it has never been much of an issue anyway.

The overriding concern rests with the central supports showing because of contact with the the overlying layers. That is why such bracing is offset at least 1/4" back.

All that said, I myself usually prime wood to prevent potential warp-age, and when doing so it does wind up being "White".

With Proper Bracing at the Corners and Center, yes. Outside Frame should be set so the depth is the 2" value. Braces set so the 1" value prevents those braces from touching the Fabric*. Pick some straight pieces too.

Do you have access to a Table saw?
*if so rip the 1x2 s so that you can provide a 1.25" depth to the Bracing

Ok so I'm about to pull the trigger on my white milliskin. I'm doing a 120" wide screen so I calculate I need 7 yards for two layers of white. If I pay for the 2 day air is there any chance I get it by Saturday? If not I'll just go ground.

Ok so I'm about to pull the trigger on my white milliskin. I'm doing a 120" wide screen so I calculate I need 7 yards for two layers of white. If I pay for the 2 day air is there any chance I get it by Saturday? If not I'll just go ground.

Problematical at best.

Like many Suppliers, unless you physically call them to confirm same day order processing and shipping, even "Overnight" can mean that when they do ship it...when they ship it, then it will go "Overnight".

Your best chance lies in making the order very early, after calling to confirm the above. Otherwise, I would still order 2-Day because if not, it will come fairly slowly...as evidenced by many who have placed orders from Spandex World.

Like many Suppliers, unless you physically call them to confirm same day order processing and shipping, even "Overnight" can mean that when they do ship it...when they ship it, then it will go "Overnight".

Your best chance lies in making the order very early, after calling to confirm the above. Otherwise, I would still order 2-Day because if not, it will come fairly slowly...as evidenced by many who have placed orders from Spandex World.

I paid for the 2 day air with SpandexHouse and it will get here on Friday. They shipped it 30 mins after my order. The only part that was a little wonky was that they had to call me to run the credit card. I might be building a screen this weekend!

Yeah, but if one employs BOC, first it will require 10x the effort to stretch it across a frame. After that, it's easy enough to spray on a coating that would trounce anything Spandex can offer.

However if painting is not an option, then Spandex offers up one of the most finest surface you can find in any cloth....including coated BOC. AT properties notwithstanding. Given the choice between BOC and Spandex as a surface, what with BOC being .85 gain, about identical to White Spandex, the latter would be IMOHO the "go to" choice if backed with Silver Spandex..

First off....if you are to consider a fabric screen, BOC would not be the first choice to make. Carls has a material called Flexi-White t Hat is superior to BOC in surface and installation. It also accepts painted coating better.

But it, surface is also a very bright white, smooth surface that can stand alone against many fine Mfg Screens.

It has found a lot of favor for both reasons, being easy to mount and paint upon, as well as used "as is".

I have always stated that the AT properties of Spandex combined with it's visual attributes made it a excellent for AT use. But one cannot preclude it is a means to all ends.

Any further improvement via a coating would entail using an advanced DIY paint that is spray applied. Your needs might not require such unless a distinct need gor ambient light watch-ability is desired.

First off....if you are to consider a fabric screen, BOC would not be the first choice to make. Carls has a material called Flexi-White t Hat is superior to BOC in surface and installation. It also accepts painted coating better.

But it, surface is also a very bright white, smooth surface that can stand alone against many fine Mfg Screens.

It has found a lot of favor for both reasons, being easy to mount and paint upon, as well as used "as is".

I have always stated that the AT properties of Spandex combined with it's visual attributes made it a excellent for AT use. But one cannot preclude it is a means to all ends.

Any further improvement via a coating would entail using an advanced DIY paint that is spray applied. Your needs might not require such unless a distinct need gor ambient light watch-ability is desired.

Ok, yea I see the flex-white on Amazon. Another few bucks...Just curious from your experience of research...Obviously rolled would be better but surely they wouldn't ship the folded version if it made any kind of permanent creases or tears right? I would go for the 71x126 for a 16:9 screen ratio and about 90ish diagonal length. THX recommended settings are 85 inches for my 9.5ft viewing distance. I was thinking just a tad bigger for the what if's

Ok, yea I see the flex-white on Amazon. Another few bucks...Just curious from your experience of research...Obviously rolled would be better but surely they wouldn't ship the folded version if it made any kind of permanent creases or tears right? I would go for the 71x126 for a 16:9 screen ratio and about 90ish diagonal length. THX recommended settings are 85 inches for my 9.5ft viewing distance. I was thinking just a tad bigger for the what if's

THX knows nothing when it comes to seating. Those are commercial theater recommendations. 4K requires by Sony 0.8x width. Much closer than THX.

My recommendation is go as big as your throw allows up to 128" diagonal. You'll get well over 16 ft lumen even on eco lamp with a spandex.

THX knows nothing when it comes to seating. Those are commercial theater recommendations. 4K requires by Sony 0.8x width. Much closer than THX.

My recommendation is go as big as your throw allows up to 128" diagonal. You'll get well over 16 ft lumen even on eco lamp with a spandex.

What he said.....about seating distance. 1:1 is fine these days for almost any 1080p content on a truly smooth surface. That applies to resolution and visible artifacts. As far as dealing with brightness and any seeming predisposition toward not liking an image to get close to the edges of your peripheral vision, that is a personal choice.

And....ALWAYS order Flexi-White "Rolled". Whay even chance it? I've spoken to Carls about it and basically it's a case where some for some people even a dime more might sway them against ordering.

Yet a wrinkle is a wrinkle, and is always to be avoided if it is within one's power to do so.

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