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Splits, Need to do 35

I need to do 35 splits to increase my number of hives. I have 35 queens coming and I plan to simply go through each box, these are Double Deep, and when I find the queen I will then requeen the other box. Problem is, this seems like a lot of work, finding the queen and all, any suggestions.

Re: Splits, Need to do 35

Gently shake off enough bees from the brood to ensure you don't get the queen and put the brood in box off to the side. When you have your brood for the split, put a queen excluder over donor colony and set the bee less brood on top and put on cover. Nurse bees will come up thru to cover the brood. While you are waiting, be going down the line repeating action. By the end of the line, your first splits should be populated with bees that are not prone to drift back and are likely to easily accept new queen. I do this because I am too slow at finding queens in a boomer hive.

Re: Splits, Need to do 35

Both Vance and JD have suggested commonly done and very workable solutions. We do many such doubles each spring and my suggestion is a bit of a variation. Go through your hive with the intention of dividing the brood up into 2 properly sized units, you may well be pleasantly surprised how often you find your queen without too much effort. With those that you miss just slip an excluder between the two and separate them 4 to 5 days later when you can see where your queen has been laying. Sure you can just put excluders in to start with but to get the right amount of brood and honey in each unit you still need to go through your frames to get the proper amount of brood and honey in each unit.

"People will generally accept facts as truth only if the facts agree with what they already believe."- Andy Rooney

Re: Splits, Need to do 35

I have a little different take on this … I agree with all ,this is how I do it and seems to work well, 1st I go through both boxes and equalize brood so if there 10 frames in a 2 story box I put 5 up and 5 down with eggs in center. Leave then them sit 2/3 days then split them off to another yard, have your queen cells handy and cell everything don’t worry about the queen they can figure that out

Re: Splits, Need to do 35

Originally Posted by GageFamilyBeekeeping

One question, does anyone use 9 frames in their 10 frame brood chambers? If so, where do you leave the extra space or do you evenly space the frames.

Running nine frames in a well built up brood box works nicely. Makes it so much easier to get that first frame out and you roll a lot less bees. For spacing just a tad of extra space between all the frames and a slightly larger gap on both sides against the wall seems to work just fine. If they build a bit of burr comb on the side walls it is an easy scrape if it is getting in the way with a long tool.

Re: Splits, Need to do 35

Hey Craig the way i would do it is pull three frames of brood form the bottom box and shake the bees off put excluder on and then put the three frames of brood in top box in the center. fill the box with six more frames and put the lid on. come back the next day pull top box off and put a bottom on it and move it to another location. Nine frames work better for me if they are drawn comb. if it is foundation use ten until they get it drawn out and then you can pull one out.

Re: Splits, Need to do 35

The longest it has ever taken me to find the queen when I set out to find her has been 5 minutes or so. I have also noticed that you can sort faster by knowing where she is not. I have never found the queen on a frame that was not loaded with bees. wave your hand over the fame as well or poke your finger at it. often the bees near the queen will react far more than any other bees in the hive. basically observe carefully for additional clues as to where the queen is. there is more to see than just a long bodied bee. of course they an like to run away from you and stay on t he under side or back side of things. I have never had the queen not know where I was and not try to avid being in my direct line of sight. they are always trying to dart to the other side of the frame. look through frames fast the first time. if you do not see her that way then go back more slowly. it may be a waste of time but it may save you a lot of time in some hives. the net should be a savings in time overall. have someone help you so both sides of a frame are being watched at the same time. great way to prevent hiding from working.

shake all the bees onto the ground and then catch the ball of bees. Okay I am just kidding on that one but wouldn't it be great to make it that easy.

one final not so sure idea. assume all queens where int eh lower deep. add caged queens to all upper deep splits. remove any queens that the bees act aggressive toward assuming that they do still have a queen. place caged queen int eh lower deep from the same hive and see if the bees act more accepting toward the new queen. In short this is an attempt to let the bees tell you if they have a queen or not . I am not sure how inclined bees are to lie to you though. try that one at your own peril.

Re: Splits, Need to do 35

I think the key to commercial beekeeping is no matter the method, employ one and then do it. No sense over analysing things, just do the job and then guess what, then it's done. Not to worry there are at least 4 or 5 other ones to do and by the time those are done there will be another 4 or 5. That's the beauty of this profession, there is always work and if you run out of work, just make another 100-200 splits. Then you are busy again. If another family member wants in, as long as he/she brings some cash, then you can make 500 or so increases for them and they are in, just like that.