I know a lot of people already have their favorite way of transfering patterns to the pumpkins. Some people use Saral paper, other use adhesive-backed paper, and I'm sure there are other methods as well.

So, I'm just going to throw my method out there http://www.micromark.com/3-piece-pounce ... ,6668.html. I use the pounce wheel (the large one, in this set). There are places that sell the tools individually, but I need to show the 3-piece set, so you know which one is the larger one. The tool usually goes for around $8. It's made for transfering paper plans to other mediums, and works very well on pumpkins, both foam and real. Tape your pattern to the pumpkin, then trace over the lines with the pounce wheel. When you're done, you'll see a perfect transfer of the pattern, on the pumpkin, in a "connect the dots" fashion.

I then use a grease pencil (now known as a china ink pencil or marker - Sharpie sells them as "China Marker") to connect all the dots, to reduce the eye fatigue. You can easily see the pattern after the pounce wheel, but the china marker just makes it easier to follow. I've also used crayons in the past, because the China marker was hard to track down. Only one store in town, actually had it in stock.

Now this may seem like extra work, but the money you save in the long run, is indespensible. Comapred to standard 8 1/2 x 11 printer paper, Saral is fairly expensive, and usually a one, maybe two, time use product. Adhesive backed paper, is also expensive. For $8, you have a tool that will last a lifetime. You don't have to worry about running out, like you do with Saral, or having to get the left over adhesive paper off the pumpkin. Once the pattern is transfered, that's all there is to it.

And if you're wondering if it really works, all of these, plus others, were carved with that method

Just thought I'd put this out there.

-Fred

User mini profile

Since most of my carves are on foam, I just use white glue and glue my pattern to the pumpkin. However, when I used to use the poke method, I would take a little flour and rub it over the pumpkin. The flour would fill the holes, making it easy to follow the pattern and it's faster than going back over with a marker. Good tip with the large wheel though. I used to use the small one PM included in their sets.

The thought of using a pounce wheel had crossed my mind but ive never got round to trying it. I might give it a go next year or in the off season on a watermelon, I'm sure ive got one somewhere. And you're quite right, it would save money and probably time.

I've never had great luck with a pounce wheel personally. Maybe the ones I've tried didn't have a small enough disc on the end to navigate details. But with sharp curves, I feel like I'm more accurate with a tool that has a single point for tracing (like a pen on transfer paper).

Zombie Pumpkins! wrote:I've never had great luck with a pounce wheel personally. Maybe the ones I've tried didn't have a small enough disc on the end to navigate details. But with sharp curves, I feel like I'm more accurate with a tool that has a single point for tracing (like a pen on transfer paper).

I'm with you, I've used them, but never had any luck with the technique. I need to buy more Saral this off season. I might run out THIS season.

Zombie Pumpkins! wrote:I've never had great luck with a pounce wheel personally. Maybe the ones I've tried didn't have a small enough disc on the end to navigate details. But with sharp curves, I feel like I'm more accurate with a tool that has a single point for tracing (like a pen on transfer paper).

With more intricate details, the small wheel, does offer better handling - especially around curves. But don't forget, you don't have to trace the pattern in a single pass. If a curve is too sharp, just rotate the pumpkin, and come at the curve from the other side.

I remember working on some other projects and using carbon papaer, and the headache of trying to keep both pages aligned, once everything was started. Because a slight shift, threw everything out of whack.

That's the nice part of the wheel - the only paper you need to be concerned about, is the pattern.

User mini profile

Ive tried this technique too. Really struggled with it. Even went as far as getting some tracing paper and tried "pouncing" through it. Results - meh. Went back to adhesive backed paper.

This year i snagged some adhesive backed vinyl inkjet media from work, cut it down to regular sheet size and tried it out. The advantage was that it stretched around the kin - no wrinkles. The downside - the pattern warped too. Boo.

Saral, have a part roll. Was a pain to get here. Wasnt overwhelmed with reults. Saving it or "another day"

Hottie McNaughty wrote:I used to use one of these guys but I'm pretty addicted to the transfer paper at this point. I just get five or six rolls at a time and can find it pretty cheap.

Where do you normally find yours at? Because like you, I've become addicted to the paper too. But I never seem to find it cheap anywhere.

I find mine at A.C. moore stores, I just use the coupon that comes in the sunday paper that gives you 40% off any 1 reg. priced item. stuff like tht never goes on "sale" so you can always use the coupon on it

I might try this out. I have used the plastic PM ones in the past but did not like it AT ALL. But I imagine a metal one would work quite well given the right weight and technique. I am going to scour my hardware stores.