Ok, I know the rule; 33's or less - mini. 35's or larger - Saginaw. Now I know there are the few people that have ventured out and march to the beat of a different drummer and have done 60 PS in a 40.

Now I'm just spit balling here, but what about putting 80 PS in a 40? (I looked on the web and didn't find anything). I figure if I am going to do a PS conversion I should consider all possible options. Hell people are putting 45's on 80 frames, mixing and matching axles, and dropping 350's in Volvos. Don't even get me started on Red Chili.

I have not put a 60 and a 80 PS gearbox side by side (I have looked at various photos). Seems like the main differences would be the placement of the pitman arm, and the valve assembly. I assume the pitman could be clocked to a desired position. I figure the 80's PS gearbox would be stout in comparison to the 60's, as it is full time all wheel drive. 60 parts are getting harder to find and 80 parts are getting easier to find.

Again I'm just thinking out loud and wondering what people would see as possible barriers to a conversation of this nature, if any.

__________________
"Keep talking. I'll keep analyzing."
"Bad decisions make great stories."
"40's are only to be sold at estate sales." - Uncle Ben

I really like the end result of my FJ60 PS conversion, don't know really anything about the 80 series steering box, but I think there are a couple threads on MUD of people doing or at least thinking about that conversion as well...and the FJ60 box wasn't really hard to find. The steering column parts I got lucky with because timmbuck2 was parting out Uglibus, and the drag link stuff, if I were to do it again, would seriously consider getting a custom one made. I'm still thinking about getting an intermediate shaft custom made as well, with a better slip joint and smaller u-joints. And I would like to shorten my steering column (FJ55 steering column).

So what are all the pieces and parts (not just the steering box) that you are thinking of, and that might be hard to find?

60 and 80 are essentially the same. The 80 box might be slightly stouter but it's more about the style and removing the a linkage and the center arm with saginaw and 60/80/ scout boxes. I think it's more important to use strong pump like the saginaw vs toyota pump.

__________________See you on the trailWØREKCouple o' FJ40's, BJ70, UZJ100, TDI66FJ40,82FJ60,97FZJ80TLCA#4180

So what are all the pieces and parts (not just the steering box) that you are thinking of, and that might be hard to find?

Matt I have not really thought about the rest of the steering assembly. Here is a little more information.

9/72 FJ-40 Needs a Rag Joint -which I have a line on.

I plan on running 35's with a 4" OME system - I personally don't like the SOA conversation - It always seemed too involved and I have seen some done very poorly/unsafe.

I want to remove as many tie rods as I can from the 40. Way too many links and parts to fail.

I will use a Toyota PS Pump, as it will bolt straight to the engine block.

I think the hardest part would be piecing it together from the firewall to the Gearbox. Most likely will need to find a specialty shop to help fab up some linkage. 55's are too rare and I'm sure someone with a 55 is looking for the part.

Might end up replacing the knuckle housing to a 60 or a 6 shooter.

__________________
"Keep talking. I'll keep analyzing."
"Bad decisions make great stories."
"40's are only to be sold at estate sales." - Uncle Ben

You can go with 4" lift springs and you will hate yourself because of the lousy ride, both on and off road. If you do the SOA correctly (east to do it right) your rig will ride and handle better plus it will perform better off road.

If you do the SOA you should also do the front shackle reversal at the same time and flip your front & rear springs, this will give you 6" more wheel base. In the process you will also do U bolt flip and high steer, all things which will much improve your offroad capability.

Whether you do 4" lift or SOA you will have to rotate your rear pinion up due to the driveline angle and then have a dual cardan CV driveshaft built. Otherwise you will have vibration and be replacing rear U joints quite frequently. You will have to grind out the valleys on your front driveshaft yoke to keep it from binding and breaking at full droop unless you do a cut & turn on the front housing (the right way to do it).

IMHO either do a 2" lift and 33's or do a SOA if you want to go bigger.

As far as steering gears I'm sure you could mount one out of a Maserati with enough time, money and fabrication skills. The reason for the "tried & true" methods (mini truck & saginaw) are: They work well, are relatively easy modifications to perform, are relatively inexpensive and the parts are readily available almost any where.

If you get a 2F alternator bracket and move your alternator to the passenger side and get a Mark's Offroad PS pump bracket, you can also bolt a saginaw pump right up to the engine block. Whether you go mini truck, saginaw, 60/80 or whatever on the steering gear it's a good idea to go saginaw on the pump. They're inexpensive, they produce higher pressure (stronger power steering), are supposed to last much longer than the toyot units and they are readily available at any parts house/junk yard.

Whether you do 4" lift or SOA you will have to rotate your rear pinion up due to the driveline angle and then have a dual cardan CV driveshaft built. Otherwise you will have vibration and be replacing rear U joints quite frequently. You will have to grind out the valleys on your front driveshaft yoke to keep it from binding and breaking at full droop unless you do a cut & turn on the front housing (the right way to do it).

I didn't realize all that needed to be done for a 4" lift, but makes sense. I'm sure I have some of those issues already as the PO, just put extended shackles on it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Air Randy

As far as steering gears I'm sure you could mount one out of a Maserati with enough time, money and fabrication skills. The reason for the "tried & true" methods (mini truck & saginaw) are: They work well, are relatively easy modifications to perform, are relatively inexpensive and the parts are readily available almost any where.

I was wondering that I could do with a Lamborghini. I know the tried and true methods, just wondering if there was a better mouse trap. I did read the 60PS conversation in TT back in the day and thought that was a nice set up. Just figured an 80 might be similar, and stronger. Again I want to explore all options to get the best results. Nothing has been cut or modified yet, just want to do it "right" the first time.

__________________
"Keep talking. I'll keep analyzing."
"Bad decisions make great stories."
"40's are only to be sold at estate sales." - Uncle Ben

I really like the end result of my FJ60 PS conversion, don't know really anything about the 80 series steering box, but I think there are a couple threads on MUD of people doing or at least thinking about that conversion as well...and the FJ60 box wasn't really hard to find. The steering column parts I got lucky with because timmbuck2 was parting out Uglibus, and the drag link stuff, if I were to do it again, would seriously consider getting a custom one made. I'm still thinking about getting an intermediate shaft custom made as well, with a better slip joint and smaller u-joints. And I would like to shorten my steering column (FJ55 steering column).

So what are all the pieces and parts (not just the steering box) that you are thinking of, and that might be hard to find?

No need for custom drag link Matt, I found 70 series part #'s that work in the US for a very nice cost! Check my thread...

Matt and I are about the same height and I like the added length of the 55 column in my cab, gives me more leg room. The downside is it is harder to drive with my knee now...

You can go with 4" lift springs and you will hate yourself because of the lousy ride, both on and off road. If you do the SOA correctly (east to do it right) your rig will ride and handle better plus it will perform better off road.

Whether you do 4" lift or SOA you will have to rotate your rear pinion up due to the driveline angle and then have a dual cardan CV driveshaft built. Otherwise you will have vibration and be replacing rear U joints quite frequently. You will have to grind out the valleys on your front driveshaft yoke to keep it from binding and breaking at full droop unless you do a cut & turn on the front housing (the right way to do it).

IMHO either do a 2" lift and 33's or do a SOA if you want to go bigger.

Kevin, you should come drive my 40 for a day. Sprung under. 4" lift and 33" tires. Extended the back drive shaft but no double cardan CV needed. No grinding on the front shaft needed. Did not do a shackle reversal. Did put in some 4 degree shims in the front axle packs (cut and turn is better, as Randy says, but the shims work fine). Also, I have Saginaw PS, which is a great upgrade.