Mary and I climbed this awesome route from a camp at Saddleback Lake. We took the boat across Redfish Lake and hiked to the camp in about 2 hours. Night temperatures were in the 30's, so we got a comfortably late start and were on route at around 10AM. The topo we had was very easy to follow and we made excellent progress, climbing the route in 8 pitches. We screwed up on the descent and ended up having to make many rappels, but we still made it back to camp with daylight to spare. After spending another night, we woke up late and hiked back to the shuttle boat for lunch in Stanley. A great climb in a really beautiful area.

Came at it from the east in a bunch of snow with Sam and Barak. The last leg towards the summit was somewhat tricky with all the snow, but made the climb from Saddleback to summit in just under an hour. Great climb!

I seconded as my friend Tony led the Mountaineer's route. It was a blast - Being from PA, we don't get many chances to climb cracks. Of all things, we got cocky at the top and took a class 3 gully towards the summit, feeling there was no need to consult our route descriptions anymore. Well, our gully ended in a 5.10 no-hands traverse. Instead of retreating, we placed some gear and trusted our feet, making it through fine and not needing any caffeine to wake up for the hike and paddle back to our camp.

The Mountaineer's was a great intro to the perch. The Astroelephant might be my favourite climb of all time. Varied climbing. Great position. Route finding challenges. It had it all. The sunrise book had been described early to me as a full on fist fight. Well I got my ass kicked but good. Thank God for AJones. It was an amazing line in a great position. The route really doesn't let up from the first crux on pitch 1 until you top out.

Climbed this very fun route with Jim on the last day of our four day trip into the Sawtooths in Idaho. The route, the rock, the climbing, the scenery were awesome. Must come back for more. Jim has written a great trip report with the details and lot's of great pictures. Awesome times!

There were two other parties on the route so it was crowded by Idaho standards. The climbing is clean and great. There are many other climbs of this quality and length in the Sawtooths yet very few no about them- Baron Spire , for example, has an 18 pitch 5.10.

Sunrise Book August 27, 2005. Sustained and kinda hard. Perfect rock. Took us much longer than we expected. It was a pleasure running into some famous OR climbers at the base camp (much thanks to them for beta).

Was pleasantly surprised that the green Alien placed in a flaring pod held my 15-footer :)

Mountaineers Route July 4, 2004. All in all, the route is very nice and the rock is gorgeous! I thought that Warbonnet had a more alpine feel and the final pitch of Warbonnet was more unforgettable than anything on this route. The lack of crowds and the alpine vistas made us forget that we're only 2-3 hours from trailhead. Not very challenging for a 5.9 leader but quite nice for a 5.8 leader.

This is a fantastic route. I, too thought that it made a soft 5.9, but the rock quality and fun exposure was a blast. We did three extra pitches at the end, traversing across snow covered slabs and gullies connected by rock pro, to reach the saddle and the descent gully. We were suprised to see the gully dry so early. Very little snow on the approach. After we got down, got water, made dinner and sat down it rained. And rained. The log crossing was under water when we got to it, so we whacked the bush for a half mile before crossing Redfish Lake Creek. Adventurous hiking. We saw not another soul in the Saddleback Lakes drainage. First time in the Sawtooth's was a success.