Pages

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

The Jack Rose Cocktail

Drinks authority David Embury called this one of his “six basic cocktails”

So who is this David Embury? And what is a “basic cocktail,” anyway?

Patience—all will be revealed in time. But first, we need to introduce this tasty delight.

The Jack Rose is made with applejack, a variety of apple brandy. Applejack goes back a long way—it was extremely popular in North America during colonial times, and was the first spirit to be licensed for commercial production in the United States.

This drink is simplicity itself to make. Pour a slug of applejack, add freshly squeezed lime juice (or lemon—your choice), splash in some grenadine (the real stuff, please), and mix with ice. The result? An appealingly tart drink with just the right balance of sweetness. Not to mention gorgeous color.

The Jack Rose is perfect for sharpening appetites before an autumn dinner. Especially that big dinner you may be planning for the 4th Thursday of November (you know, the one they call Thanksgiving).

Recipe: The Jack Rose Cocktail

Most brandies and cognacs are made from grapes. Applejack brandy is made from apples (or cider)—originally by a process called freeze distillation.

The only brand of applejack you’re likely to find in your liquor store these days is one made by Laird & Company, which is the oldest licensed distillery in the US (having obtained License No. 1 from the US Treasury Department in 1780). What you’ll probably see on the shelf is their 80-proof applejack; it includes some neutral grain spirits, which (alas) dilute the flavor somewhat. Laird also makes a bonded (100 proof) version, but it’s hard to find. You can substitute a French calvados for applejack if you like, though that’s a pricey (albeit excellent!) substitution.

Grenadine provides essential flavor in this drink. Which means you definitely need to use real (i.e., pomegranate) grenadine. The brand of grenadine you’re most likely to find in your liquor store (Rose’s) contains no pomegranate, just artificial flavors and coloring. But worry not. It’s quite easy to make your own grenadine; for complete instructions, see our post on Homemade Grenadine.

Originally, this drink was made with lemon juice. Then, somewhere along the way, lime became the citrus of choice. It’s good with either juice, though I prefer lime—so that’s what I’ve included in my version.

Most recipes for the Jack Rose are similar. I’m using the one from David Wondrich’s Imbibe!

lime wedge or slice for garnish (optional; use lemon wedge/slice if you substitute lemon juice)

Procedure

Place all ingredients (except for garnish) in a cocktail shaker half-filled with ice. Shake vigorously until the shaker is frosted and the drink is thoroughly chilled (about 20 seconds).

Strain the contents of the shaker into a cocktail glass, preferably one that’s been chilled. Garnish with a lime slice or wedge if you wish, and serve.

Notes

A common variation on this recipe uses 1½ ounces applejack, ½ ounce juice (lime or lemon), and ½ ounce grenadine. This produces a sweeter drink than the formula I prefer, but you might find it ideal.

How did the Jack Rose get its name? As usual with cocktails, there are competing theories. One says it’s named after the Jacquemot (Jacque) rose, which has a color similar to this drink.

A more exciting story says it was named after Bald Jack Rose, a notorious early 20th century gambler and gangland figure. He became famous for (among other things) serving as a star witness at a lurid underworld murder trial.

In truth, the origins of this drink are likely more prosaic. David Wondrich says it probably was invented by a bartender named Frank J. May—who also went by the pseudonym Jack Rose.

Rose (or May) tended bar in New Jersey, so that’s where he probably developed this drink. Coincidentally, Laird & Company was founded in New Jersey. And a slang term for applejack is “Jersey Lightning.”

David Embury (1886-1960) was an American attorney who became a well-known cocktail authority. He wrote The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks, a comprehensive, authoritative (and witty) guide to mixology. Embury was quite opinionated, and he preferred his drinks dry (i.e., not sweet)—drier, in fact, than many people can tolerate.

Want an example? Well, our recipe for the Jack Rose has a ratio of 4:2:1 (4 parts applejack to 2 parts lime juice to 1 part grenadine). The alternate formula that I give in the first note above is 3:1:1. Embury’s preference is 8:2:1. Now that’s a dry drink!

In his book, Embury includes a chapter titled “Six Basic Cocktails.” These are the drinks that Embury declared to be the best known and most popular—so they were the ones that readers were advised to learn first. The Jack Rose was among them. You can read about the other five in some of our prior posts: the Martini, the Manhattan, the Old-Fashioned, the Classic Daiquiri, and the Sidecar.

Embury’s list is still a good guide to essential cocktails. The Jack Rose is the only one that sounds obscure today—and we’re doing our best to change that.

The Jack Rose seems to have reached peak popularity during the first half of the 20th century (Embury’s heyday). Ernest Hemingway has Jake Barnes down one (or maybe two) in The Sun Also Rises (published 1926).

Hi Barb, doesn't applejack have such great flavor? I love it. And I'm so with you on the lime. And grenadine is so easy - and inexpensive - to make at home (and so good!) it seems criminal to buy it. Thanks for the comment.

I can't say that I've had applejack before but the 4th Thursday of November is a big day this year. It is the first day of Hanukkah, which like has never happened in my life time on Thanksgiving, and apparently won't for another 70,000 years, AND it is our 32nd wedding anniversary, and my kids will be home! I'm ready to dig in the liquor cabinet, like now! Great sounding drink!

Hi Abbe, I had read that Hanukkah is the same day as Thanksgiving this year! So unusual. With those two holidays, your kids home, AND your wedding anniversary? Mucho celebration time! This drink would be nice, but maybe a champagne cocktail would be better? ;-) Thanks for your comment.

I haven't thought of Apple Jack since my Great Aunt Leena died. She always had a bottle within reach, but I never actually saw her drink it. I know she did though because the levels kept changing. I was always curious what it tasted like and finally got to taste it when my dad bought a bottle for her funeral. She lived 98 years, so it certainly didn't hurt her. :) Looks like I need to make this Jack Rose Cocktail in her memory. What a beautiful drink! Thanks for the memories John!

It's always fun to learn about cocktails here (and I can't drink much - how ironic!). This is such a pretty drink! I introduced your blog to a couple of my friends who enjoy making cocktails at home (they love having home parties). I met one of them the other day and she told me she's been testing your recipes! :D I think I now have a personal bartender who makes your drinks. Very smart move, I thought!!! ;)

Grenadine takes me back to my early childhood when they gave us kids glasses of cold syrup with water instead of soft drinks. To this day I haven't used it again! I must try to find the real thing, though I don't know how that will go. Anyway, the color is amazing ! This is a perfect party drink, it has all the right attributes: easy to make and gorgeous.

Hi Paula, finding real grenadine can be a bit of a challenge. But it takes only a few minutes to make it yourself if you use bottled pomegranate juice. And you're right that this would make a great party drink! Thanks for the comment.

The Jack Rose brings back fond memories of my Aunt Nancy who lived in Brooklyn. Each and every night she would begin her evening with a Jack Rose Cocktail. I remember how pretty I thought it was but I was too young to ever have a sip. (I was "allowed: to have wine though:) When I got older, I indulged myself with a Jack Rose in her honor.

It's been way to long since I've enjoyed another. Aunt Nancy had "rules" when it came to The Jack Rose, must use Laird's, always lime:)

Beautiful drink. I do like Brandy in food, although I haven't had it straight up. I may have to give this a try. I do have some on the shelf, maybe I'll make some and surprise my hubby with it. He'd definitely be shocked that I put it together.

Hi Nazneen, long before I started drinking cocktails, I enjoyed reading about their history in a weekly drinks column in the Wall Street Journal. It's actually their history that got me interested in trying them. Thanks for the comment.

Such a pretty color. I did not know about Applejack before...now I know! Knowledge is power :) We are planning to stop by the liquor store this afternoon (you know, usual Saturday errands!), so I will look for this to see if they sell.

Hi Gintare, isn't this a pretty drink? And it tastes even better than it looks. Glad you enjoyed the braised beef with sweet potatoes. Such a nice dish, isn't it? Thanks for letting me know you liked it, and for commenting.

First, you know I love learning about booze....ummm, I mean cocktails! AND second, you know I enjoy brandy. So now that you have introduced me to apple brandy, well I must buy some soon! This cocktail has beautiful Fall flavors combined, and would be gorgeous with Thanksgiving dinner:-) Take care, Terra

This is interesting- we made a chicken dish at the Cordon Bleu School in Paris using Calvados - an apple brandy from Normandy, France. I love anything with apples in it, so I took a swig directly from the bottle- UGH! Tasted alright in the chicken dish, though!

Hi Fran, a lot of Calvados can taste a bit astringent - it's the rawness of the alcohol. Cooking certainly masks that because the alcohol evaporates. And in cocktails, other flavors enhance the apple notes, and mask the rawness of the alcohol. Thanks for the comment.