North Pond

Caviar, once upon a holiday past, meant a tin of Caspian sturgeon roe nestled in ice with a mother-of-pearl spoon, accompanied by Champagne. Today, concerns about the environmental impact of those fabled Caspian fisheries — and one's budget — call for greener (and more affordable) roe options from other types of fish that can still pack a decadent party punch. "It wakes your mouth up. It's a slap on your palate in a positive way," says Rick Moonen of RM Seafood restaurant in Las Vegas, on the enduring appeal of fish roe. "It's a pop and a burst of ocean flavor … I think it's just fun." Fun, yes, but roes of all sorts — from...

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Caviar, once upon a holiday past, meant a tin of Caspian sturgeon roe nestled in ice with a mother-of-pearl spoon, accompanied by Champagne. Today, concerns about the environmental impact of those fabled Caspian fisheries — and one's budget — call for...