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This challenging mountain bike ride will take you through the dramatic, volcano-strewn (14 active) island of Flores in Eastern Indonesia.

It is a trip I have wanted to do for a long time - ever since I visited in the late 90's and was awed by the rugged beauty of the island and the fascinating peoples who have largely been left behind by the developing world - and finally I managed to arrange it for a Swedish couple in December 07 who raved about it.

The trip starts in the eastern city of Maumere, located in a large bay on the northern coast - site of a devastating tsunami in 1992 that wiped out the entire population of an island just offshore, Pulau Babi. Before that event, the coral gardens and reefs offshore were regarded as the most beautiful marine garden in Indonesia. Fifteen years later it is showing miraculous signs of recovery and scuba divers have returned to set up shop here.

The roads that will take you west to the fishing village of Labuanbajo on the westernmost tip of Flores will be rugged and challenging, climbing over the cordillera of volcanoes to the south coast and back into the mountains again before descending to the west. En route you will be able to explore several volcanoes, including the famous Kelimutu with its three different coloured crater lakes, ancient traditional villages and extraordinary and unique rice terrace formations that look like spiders' webs. You may have a chance to witness a caci - a ceremonial whipfight - and visit a village famous for its exquisite ikat weavings.

On arrival in Labuanbajo, you can, of course, then take a boat out into the stunning Komodo National Marine Park that lies between Flores and Sumbawa islands to look for Komodo Dragons, the world's largest living lizard, a true hangover from prehistoric times.

THIS IS A TRIP FOR ADVENTURERS ONLY! YOU WILL BE AMONGST A VERY FEW TO HAVE CYCLED THROUGH THIS ISLAND.

Cyclists will be backed up by 4WD support vehicles - number depend on how many of you decide to join us. If you are bringing your won bikes, make sure you also carry essential spare parts - we will be far from modern civilisation.

See a some more pics on the Symbiosis blog, courtesy of Tim Peterson and Louise Neilson who completed this trip in Sept 09.

Notes

This cycle ride can be incorporated into a Symbiosis tailor made holiday to Indonesia that can be adapted and tailored to meet your dates, preferences and passions. Please contact one of our bespoke holiday planners to create the ideal itinerary for you.

Trans Flores

Overview

Cycling distance: 670km

Ascent: 10,184m

Descent: 9,675m

No of days: 16 days

No of cycle days: 11 days

Day 1: Maumere ~ LarantukaAs we fly into Maumere on Flores’ north coast the rugged topography of the island is quickly apparent. The jagged islands of Teluk Maumere bay plunge into crystal clear waters famous with divers. Aquamarine gives way to black sand beaches backed by coconut palms ‐ all under the towering gaze of mountains dominated by active Gunung Egon volcano (1,703m).

We will be picked up at Frans Seda Airport and taken to the small East Flores district capital of Larantuka, a most scenic journey of approx. 3 hours. We’ll use two vehicles, an air‐conditioned van for riders and a truck for the bikes and gear, which will be tarpaulined in the unlikely case of rain. We’ll have a tangy fish soup (kuah ikan) for dinner in Larantuka and get to bed early in preparation for the morrow’s start. Trip staff will assemble the bikes either on this night or early the next morning.

Day 2: Cycle day 1
Distance 53km, Ascent 707m, Descent 481mLarantuka ~ HokengAfter an early nasi goreng (fried rice) breakfast, the assembled bikes can be trialled and you will have time to go to an ATM and purchase Indonesian mobile phone SIM cards should you want. Before departure we will spend some time on group riding protocols and Indonesian road rules.

The route begins and leads us through Larantuka following the coast southwestwards, affording fabulous views of white sand beaches and the blue‐hued Adonara and Solor islands across the incredibly narrow straits. The islands of the Solor Archipelago are so close, in fact, it’s as if you could reach out and touch them as they swell from the sea skywards. We casually make our way up and past the mountains of Lewotobi Perempuan / Female and Lewotobi Laki‐laki / Male (1,703m and 1,584m respectively) to the first night’s stay in Hokeng convent, near the small hill town of Boru. Depending upon the time, we may be able to drop in to the village Lewokluok where shells are interestingly woven into their ikat (traditionally‐woven fabrics) made only for local use and not for export to other parts of the island. With two substantial ascents and a total ascent of approx. 700m it could be classed as an appropriate introductory day.

Day 3: Cycle day 2
Distance 71km, Ascent 451m, Descent 696mHokeng ~ Soa
The route veers slightly westward now to Flores’ north coast. Our day begins with a graceful descent past Boru before we climb around the flank Mt. Isle Wukoh. There should be ample time to enjoy the views through the old growth forest and, depending on water levels, the opportunity to take a quick dunk in a river pool along the way. After a nice 17km descent, the road leisurely follows the coast to our beach side accommodation at Soa, 10km east of Maumere on the north coast. The beauty of this area is breath taking. The bungalow style resort is a kilometre from the road and set a little back from the beach in tropical forest and coconut palms. With 45km of flat riding and only one ascent 10km/486m and a descent of 17km/481m it should be a relaxing day.

Day 4: Soa
Our luxurious beach resort accommodation will provide excellent opportunities for ocean swimming, reef snorkelling, exploring the traditional village of Sikka (previous capital, site of what is said to be Flores’ oldest church, and some world famous ikat textiles), nearby hot springs, and rest after two days in the saddle. It is also possible to go shopping in Maumere.

Day 5: Cycle day 3
Distance 54km, Ascent 631m, Descent 600mSoa ~ Paga
We continue southwest through forest with lontar palms and bamboo groves, over the central mountain range, past the largest seminary on Flores and in Indonesia, and we’ll drop into the well kept Bikon Blewut Museum (opened 1965) and enjoy the first of two trip descents to the coastal village of Paga on beautiful Koka Beach. After an optional dip, it’s on to our accommodation at the Retreat Seminary of Elija The Prophet among beautiful mountainside gardens near the town of Wolowiru.

Day 6: Cycle day 4
Distance 48km, Ascent 1,251m, Descent 629mPaga ~ Moni
This day takes us westwards near the coast along flat terrain for 10km, and then turns northwestwards into the mountains to the resort and trekkers’ village of Moni. The route from the coast to Moni includes two ascents for a total of 26km/946m and is broken by one descent of 9km. The ride up to Moni is as scenically spectacular as it is physically challenging, with jungle, terraced rice fields, and enormous panoramic views of the famed rugged coast of Flores from high above. At 715m Moni enjoys a pleasantly cool climate.

Day 7: Moni
Moni sits in a picturesque valley below Gunung Kelimutu mountain (1,639m) surrounded by steep mountain sides and terraced rice fields. At the summit of Kelimutu there are tricolour crater lakes. The steep cliffs that plunge into the technicolor water of these lakes is one of Indonesia’s scenic icons. Pre dawn, in one of our vehicles, we’ll head up to the summit where we can view the lakes and Flores’ narrowest point far below (only 12km from the northern Flores Sea and the southern Savu Sea). On the way back we’ll drop in at the botanical gardens.

Day 8: Cycle day 5
Distance 54km, Ascent 609m, Descent 1,174mMoni ~ Ende
After a climb of 11km/445m through Moni village and past Wologai village above, we will enjoy a downhill run of 39km/1044m to Ende, Flores’ biggest city. Words do no justice to the beauty of this descent. We glide past green mountain valleys cloaked in cloud and dotted with rice terraces reminiscent of Bali before plunging into a steep canyon. Here, as we ride along the cliffside road under the intermittent shade of old growth teaks and mahogany. We may be privy to an astonishing sight if the rains are good to us the night before ‐ dozens upon dozens of silver cascades glistening down the rock faces throughout the canyon. As we near Ende, the canyon opens again to reveal a valley flanked by steep mountains that could easily be mistaken for the kind of terrain one would expect in Vietnam or Laos!

The Flores Timur option finishes in Ende and those of you who’ve taken this option can take Garuda flight out of Ende on day 9. The Flores Barat option starts in Ende on day 8 and finishes in Labuan on day 16.

Day 9: Cycle day 6
Distance 74km, Ascent 1,180m, Descent 567mEnde ~ Boawae
The route, heading west, hugs the cliff faces of spectacular Teluk Ende Bay for a flat 41 km interrupted by 10 abrupt hillocks. We than head inland and begin to climb a testing 600 m in 13 km. The views of mountain ravines and valleys on this climb are outstanding and some warungs perched precariously on cliff edges provide some respite and a well deserved lunch. The route then undulates for 20 km its way down through padi fields and commanding views of Gunung Ebulobo Mountain (2,124m) and distant
Gunung Inerie Mountain as they pierce the sky dramatically. We pass the impressive St Yohanes Berkhmans (built in 1929, is the second oldest seminary in Indonesia) before heading into the pretty village of Boawae dominated by the majestic Gunung Ebulobo volcano.

Our accommodation in Boawae is simple, rustic but comfortable.

Day 10: Cycle day 7
Distance 43km, Ascent 1,030m, Descent 319mBoawae ~ Bajawa
Just as our breathtaking views of Ebulobo are gradually shrouded behind forested hills, the road gives way to mighty Inerie volcano (2,245m). We climb westwards, 35km/866m up through its northern foothills and then descends 7km/158m to the town of Bajawa. Our accommodation here is with a Dutch couple who run a guesthouse. The climb in not a cakewalk, but this is a short day on the saddle.

Day 11: Bajawa
Bajawa is one of the main draws to Flores in addition to Komodo National Park and the lakes of Kelimutu. Here there is a multitude of activities densely packed into a manageable area. It is the perfect place to hop of the bike for a day and really soak up the riches that Flores has to offer.

And/or Sunset viewing. Descend 35km leisurely to the coast, down the west side of Gunung Inerie mountain (3 to 7pm). This “zero effort” ride is a photographer’s dream in the changing afternoon hues. A vehicle will be ready at the coast to take riders and their bikes back to Bajawa

Or simply resting.

Day 12: Cycle day 8
Distance 81km, Ascent 680m, Descent 1,760mBajawa ~ Borong
The route, first thing, descends a leisurely 37km/1,170m to Aimere on the coast. Much like the descent from Moni to Ende earlier in the trip, this is an absolute gem of a downhill with huge views of the coast and Gunung Inerie. The road is flat along the coast for 7km, followed by a fairly tame 19km/444m ascent, some of which is through shady old growth rainforest. A final descent of 21km/432 m to the blink ‘n’ you miss it village of Borong and we are done for the day.

Our hotel for this evening was still under construction as of January. It is scheduled to be completed and fully operational by April before our trip begins.

Day 13: Cycle day 9
Distance 55km, Ascent 1,550m, Descent 451mBorong ~ Ruteng
This is likely the ride you’ll be bragging about to all your cycle mates when you get back home. The day begins on the south coast among lontar palms and savannah grasses. The parched coastal landscape gives way to dry forests and ever more lush surroundings while we cycle north for 35km up and over Gunung Ranaka mountain. Towards the top of this awesome 1,252m ascent, having crossed many bridges and switchbacks, the road begins to meander its way through thick rainforest and cloud forest. This gorgeous area gives us a chance to cool down, take a quick stroll into the forest to do some river sitting, and check out the beautiful little Ranamese crater lake. After this break, it’s a 19km gradual descent into the lovely, often cloudy mountain city of Ruteng. Our accommodation is in a modern comfortable upmarket hotel.

Day 14: Cycle day 10
Distance 73km, Ascent 895m, Descent 1,798mRuteng ~ Lembor
Today’s route, southwest towards the western end of Flores, begins with a decent into a narrow canyon past a waterfall. We are met at the end of the falls with a very sharp climb of roughly half a km and a gain of 200 meters. From the top of this climb, we enjoy impressive views of the Gunung Rank mountain as we make another gradual climb out of the valley. This is followed by an 18km/364m descent past the Cancar Spider Web rice paddies. The second and true ascent of the day 11km/270m passes traditional villages, offering good views of surrounding mountains. After topping out at the 1,140m summit, the route descends 23km/880m through lush pine forests before entering the Lembor area.

Day 15: Cycle day 11
Distance 64km, Ascent approx. 1,200m, Descent approx. 1,200mLembor ~ Labuan Bajo
On the last cycle day from Lembor to Labuan we will be challenged by a 1,000 m ascent up Gunung Ambeliling mountain (1,300m) which includes the steepest gradients of the trip. Near the summit, we will be rewarded with vast, sweeping views of Flores' largest protected forest ‐ a home for myriad bird species. There is one slight uphill pitch in a descent reminiscent of the
descent down from Kelimutu and Bajawa before a series of hillocks for the last 20 km into Labuan Bajo. Congratulations! You've just become a member of an elite group to ever cycle the length of Flores! Hats off, kudos, and major bragging rights to you for accomplishing this amazing feat!!

Our accommodation in Labuan Bajo will be luxurious resort style by the beach.

Day 16: Labuan Bajo
Last day of trip and airport transfers for those who don’t stay on.

Suggested extension - visit the Komodo National Park, see the extraordinary “dragons”, scuba dive or snorkel some of the richest coral reefs in the world (experienced divers only). Stunning!

Photos

Hi Christopher, Indonesia was fantastic. Thanks for all you did. The trip went off without a hitch. The people, the cycling, the diving, the boat, all perfect! We would be more than happy to recommend you in your venture to attract more cyclist. For us, this year looks like Eastern Europe, Slovenia and Croatia but Northern Vietnam to Northern Laos is on our short list! Unless you come up with a different adventure? Would also like to do a cycle tour in Thailand sometime soon, let me know your thoughts.

8 Days Flores Biking

Day 1: Arrival in Maumere (-/-/D)
Arrive at Frans Seda Airport, Maumere. Our English-speaking guide will pick you up at the airport and take you directly to your hotel. The afternoon is free at your leisure. Dinner and overnight at Sea World Club Hotel.

Day 2: Maumere – Moni (B/L/D)
Start cycling from your hotel to Sikka village with coffee stop in Nita, cycling to Sikka passed southen coastal, Sikka Village, a very famous district for its traditional weaving using organic dyes. From Sikka, you take the bicycle instead of the car and ride down to Paga (approx. 2 hours). Then continue by car to Paga beach. Enjoy the serenity and the white sandy beach of Paga Beach during lunch, then continue to Moni. Dinner and overnight at the Kelimutu Eco Lodge in Moni.

Cycling time from hotel to Sikka village: 3 hours, 35 km

Day 3: Moni – Kelimutu – Ende (B/L/D)
In the early morning at 04.00 am by car to the three colored lakes of Kelimutu, one of the most spectacular and mysterious sights in Indonesia. You will witness a beautiful sunrise. After that, return cycling to your hotel starting from the parking area of Kelimutu. After having breakfast at your hotel, continue the trip by car to Nduaria, then biking to Ende.

In the afternoon in Ende, cycling to the harbor where you can catch the sunset. Dinner and overnight at Grand Wisata Hotel Ende.

Day 4: Ende – Bajawa (B/L/D)
Start cycling from your hotel to Nangapanda, you can make a stop at Penggajawa and take a swim from the beach. You'll notice the white sand beach is covered by unique beautiful blue pebble stones. Continued by car to Boawae, take a lunch at local restaurant, by car again to Rowa, and cycling to the Hot Spring in Soa. From Soa drive to Bajawa, dinner at local restaurant before check in at hotel. Overnight at Sanian Hotel Bajawa.

Day 5: Bajawa – Ruteng, (B/L/D)
Morning biking from your Hotel to Bena Village and continue to Waebelah, Bena is the most famous and also most visited village in the Ngada district. With its impressive stone formations and ancestral shrines, as well as traditional houses, Bena has turned into a signpost for Ngada culture. Then continue to Aimere with its “Arak” distillation and palm wine fresh used tapp. Lunch in Borong or Aimere, on the way to Ruteng, you can visit Ranamese lake in the cloud forest. Dinner and Overnight at Susteran MBC, Ruteng.

Cycling time:Bajawa – Waebelah: 2.5 hours, 35 km

Day 6: Ruteng and surrounding (B/L/D)
4 hours cycling from Ruteng to Kenda, continue to Ting village and Watu alo, on the way can see the beautiful rice field terraces, afternoon biking to visit Ruteng pu’u traditional houses. Dinner at Spring hill restaurant and Overnight at Susteran MBC, Ruteng.

Cycling time in the morning: 2.5 hoursIn the afternoon: 1 hours

Day 7: Ruteng – Labuan Bajo (B/L/D)
Departure from your hotel, drive to Cancar to see the unique Lingko ricefield, circular terraces arranged like a spider web. Cycling around the rice field and villages in Cancar for 1 hour, continue to Labuanbajo. Down hill cycling from Roe to Labuanbajo for 1.5 hour. Dinner and overnight at Puri sari Beach Hotel.

Cycling time arround Cancar : 1.5 hoursRoe – Labuanbajo : 1.5 hours

Day 8: Labuan Bajo – Denpasar (B/-/-)
After breakfast, a morning visit to the Batu Cermin cave before transferring you to the airport for flight to Denpasar.

* NOTE. Prices indicated on this website are shown as a guideline only and may be subject to currency fluctuations, banking fees and other changes outside our control. Pricing information is available in other currencies.