I think you both used Shockli batteries, though I’m not sure which models or if that matters.

SKV89, did the lumens hold up well after 30 seconds or did it drop a noticeable amount?

I took a measurement at 30s. Surprisingly this time turn on lumen was about 20 lumens higher (I’m guessing due to a cold battery vs warm battery fresh off charger). After 30s with a stopwath, it dropped to the same 3,530 lumens applying the 0.68 calibration factor.

So it works okay with 65mm long flat unprotected 26650 cells? They’re not too short to maintain good contact? They don’t suffer from momentary circuit disconnections if you shake the light or jar it when it’s on?

But mine is a TC20vn with a Mouser ordered XHP70.2 4000k 80CRI M4 bin. Though the vn version is just a tiny bit brighter than the stock because I’m guessing the stock is on a higher emitter bin. I sold my stock one to a friend. Maybe I can get him to bring it over for testing one day.

Edit: oh I just remembered my stock is NW and yours is probably CW so it’s not a direct comparison too. I have some lights being modded by TA right now so I’ll ask him to give me lumen readings on the lower modes for calibration. You might want to do the same to get the best calibration.

My TC20vn measures about 2% brighter than my stock TC20 (which I just sold to a friend) using the same fully charged battery on the TA lumen tube. My TC20vn uses the 4000k XHP70.2 M4 bin from Mouser. It’s not the same batch as the one used by TA for his MT09R mods. The Mouser one is an ugly yellow.

2 step 440H same as the one TA used but the tint is ugly yellow in the Mouser version. Far more yellow than the one used in the MT09RTA

IIRC, I tried those at one point and noticed the same thing. I purchased a dozen different XHP70.2’s when I was searching for a good combo of tint and output before settling on the 440H I have been using.

I received my “neutral white” TC20 yesterday. I ordered from the Thrunite website with the 20% off coupon and it shipped to me from Amazon with Sunday delivery.

It’s not very neutral IMHO. It’s definitely on the very cool end of neutral. It’s not as cold as a CW light, but it’s noticeably cooler in tint than all my other neutral lights. If it were any cooler I’d be returning it. The “neutral white” Catapult V6 I received from them yesterday is similarly cool.

The whole NW thing, Neutral means it doesn’t have a tint lean one way or another, or that’s what Neutral means to me. There’s a lot of folks calling warm white neutral these days, with a yellow to orange tint, sometimes even almost incandescent, still being called neutral. I call that warm. And those get pulled immediately on any light I get. 3A tint is about as warm as I care to deal with. 3D in a particular instance, but I don’t even use those much.

The whole NW thing, Neutral means it doesn’t have a tint lean one way or another, or that’s what Neutral means to me. There’s a lot of folks calling warm white neutral these days, with a yellow to orange tint, sometimes even almost incandescent, still being called neutral. I call that warm. And those get pulled immediately on any light I get. 3A tint is about as warm as I care to deal with. 3D in a particular instance, but I don’t even use those much.

I wouldn’t say it’s necessarily tinted. I’d say definitely say it has a higher than desired CCT for a neutral light.

The protection circuit is easily removed from the cell that comes with the TC20. Just grab it on the edges of the circuit board itself with some pliers and pull upward while putting pressure to one side , kind of an angle and the circuit board will pop right up. Then sand the little sharp edges smooth and the cell works fine in the light.

I do suggest if you do this be sure to have an extra battery wrap handy and an insulator . as the whole positive end is exposed after you do this , so the negative part is also exposed on the same end and a possible short is likely if not properly insulated.

Here are the cells from my V6 and the TC20 both that I took the circuits off of and both work fine without solder blobs or anything.

Well, not exactly 6V, more like 6.3 or so, it will vary as the driver tries to keep up with the thermal demands on the emitter and such. Changing the load on the driver may well end up with different results (different requirements from the new emitters)

I think SKV89 asked about 6V or 12V and not about exact values. I changed the emitter on MT-G2 myself and checked it from this angle. It is known that the exact voltage value will depend on the emitter parameters.