You know that a culinary trend is reaching tipping point when the savviest restaurateurs in town start getting in on the act. Just take a look at One Sixty. It’s a neighbourhood joint created by David Moore, the brains behind some of the most accomplished French cooking in the capital (at Pied à Terre and L’Autre Pied). But this latest venture is star-spangled, US-style smokehouse cooking. Tania Ballantine

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