All JetForce Avalanche Airbag Packs sold between November 15, 2014 and July 7, 2015 should be returned to one of our global service centers. These units can be identified by a manufacturing date code printed on a label located inside the front pocket. Units bearing date codes from 4275 to 5077 are subject to this recall.

All of us know how long it takes, to the minute, to reach our local crag. We’ve slept in the dirt at J-Tree, in gîtes in Argentière and on the couches of countless climbing partners in between. When we look at a doorjamb, we see a pull-up bar. We know how to tape our hands and fingers in the morning, and how to repair the damage with superglue at night. We’ve run out of water, watched the sun set from the top of a spire, hiked out in the dark and never felt happier.

We know these things because we’re climbers, and being a climber is about more than just climbing. Beyond crimps and laybacks and hand jams, climbing is a passion that shapes the bodies, minds and lives of an entire community. Driven by something far deeper than simply making the crux move, the climbing life encompasses everything that happens before tying in and after topping out. It is training, travel and the kind of friendships forged over unplanned bivys and campfire beers.

At Black Diamond, we believe our gear can be a catalyst for this global culture of climbing, from working 5.14 moves on the Dawn Wall in Yosemite to the thousands of new climbers experiencing the sport for the first time in a gym. It’s this dedication that will continue to fuel our approach to creating Black Diamond gear: using, designing, engineering and building equipment and apparel for the climbing life.

“Black Diamond will be there from April 3-6, 2015, with a team of athletes and employees to draw visitors’ attention to a more responsible approach to the outdoors and rock. Even though climbing in Fontainebleau became popular way back at the end of the 19th century, there are still an unfathomable number of boulders to be discovered. The forest offers lots of room and rock to climb. Our goal is to preserve this playground for future generations.

The BD Team and athletes Nalle Hukkataival, Nico Favresse, Fred Nicole, and Dorothea Karalus seek to explain responsible behavior to visitors and climbers through talks and flip charts. For example, to climb only with clean climbing shoes (sand on the soles polishes rock), to use as little chalk as possible, to not leave tick marks behind, to stay on marked trails (to avoid the risk of erosion), to pick up one’s rubbish (especially toilet paper), and not to make campfires.

Black Diamond will organize this Clean Climbing Event for the fourth time. Just like in Fontainbleau, there will also be climbers gathering in the Italian Val di Mello for Melloblocco from April 30 to May 3.”

After years of dominating the competition circuit, Ines Papert now dedicates her time to exploring new locations and putting up first ascents of cutting-edge ice and mixed climbs all over the world.

“Climbing is the best way to focus on only one thing,” Black Diamond Athlete Ines Papert says of the sport that is her profession. A world-class athlete and four-time World Champion in the Ice Climbing Difficulty competition, Ines says that her success in sanctioned competitions was “a good start.” In 2003, with her ascent of Mission Impossible, she became the first woman to climb M11. And after years of competitions, Ines now focuses her attention on exploring new locations and establishing hard ice and mixed routes. For her, style is everything. “Small teams, climbing light and fast…. That makes sense to me. As long as the rock offers possibilities to protect yourself.”

“Dust is an international open boulder competition, held once a year. Anyone born in of before 2001 can take part. 90 boulders will be set, ranging from 5 to 8B. Each contender can try all boulders. You will be given a score sheet to keep a record of the boulders you have completed. Your eight most difficult completed boulders will count for the end score (each boulder has a fixed amount of points). You can also try to climb as many boulders as possible (all you can boulder). Prizes can be won in multiple categories!”

“How could we describe the feeling of taking our first shower in over two months? Mmmm… Well yes … We have just hit civilization in Greenland. These last 3 weeks has been very exciting in many ways! Adventurous climbing, a close polar bear encounter (without anything to defend ourselves) and a very scary crossing back to Greenland, which included a strong storm with snow and huge waves! On this kind of trip the adventure never seems to end until you are back under that hot shower. It does make the shower so much better!

Gibbs Fjord (photo: archive Nicolas Favresse)

So three weeks ago we sailed away from Sam Ford Fjord to explore Gibbs Fjord. Finally the intense weather conditions in Sam Ford Fjord, eased off allowing us to see some blue in the sky. It was very enjoyable sun bathing on the deck while sailing around enjoying the magical scenery of mountains, big walls, glaciers and Icebergs floating around the Fjords. However, it being early September, the temperature was decreasing day by day proportionally to the area of our bodies on which we would apply sunscreen. It feels amazing how you can sail for days in these waters and see absolutely no sign of humans. At this stage we had to be careful to spare the use of the motor in order not to run out of fuel. So we sailed even when there was not much wind; slicing the water slowly but smoothly as we were scoping around. Finally we found the business: Gibbs Fjord is full of impressive walls mostly untouched. Quickly our attention was caught by a steep and long aesthetical North-facing arête. There were lots of south facing walls but for some reason the most appealing objective for us was a North face which we knew would be cold to free climb at this time of the year.

Nico offwidthing his way up the first ascent of "Walking the plank" at Gibbs Fjord (photo: archive Nicolas Favresse)

Gibbs Fjord (photo: archive Nicolas Favresse)

Nico and Ollie (photo: archive Nicolas Favresse)

The next day Sean and I set off for it while Ben and Oli decided to trade the committing adventurous climbing for a nice hike to the top of some mountains. The blue sky turned grey again with a big band of mist, which quickly spiced up the climbing as snowflakes were flying around. In a couple hours the wall was covered with a very thin but rather sticking layer of the white stuff. Fortunately the climbing was steep, so on the bottom section of the wall it hadn’t accumulated too much and we enjoyed some of the best rock quality we encountered on this trip. But as we went higher things got more interesting. The rock was completely plastered! It reminded us the famous Scottish mixed climbing mecca Ben Nevis except we were free climbing. Fingers were jamming in snowy crack and our numb feet constantly slipping away. I never thought it would be possible to free climb in these condition! Everywhere we could rest we had to stop to warm up our numb fingers and even for the easiest move it was a challenge not to slip and fall off. It was tough but the atmosphere so magical we kept going. Thankfully the sky cleared up and, since the last 300m had been above the mist, it was a relief to finish the climb finally in descent condition. As it was getting dark, we reached the top again of a beautiful virgin feature and enjoyed the satisfaction and the unique scenery of Gibbs Fjord. If I could chose, I would never free climb again in these conditions but at the same time it was such a unique experience that I will never forget it.

Never thought it possible to free climb in these conditions! Everything slips off while your fingers and the feet get totally numb… Sean on the first ascent of "Walking the plank" Gibbs Fjord (photo: archive Nicolas Favresse)

While Sean and I were struggling with cold and snow Ben and Oli were strolling in the sun enjoying what they thought to be a safe way up a mountain. For the past month we hadn’t seen any more polar bears so slowly we started leaving the gun behind when we went on land. Ben and Oli thought a mountain made of rock and glacier is no place for polar bears to hang out. On the summit they enjoyed the view for a while and then started heading back down. 30m down from the summit all of a sudden a polar bear showed up from behind a boulder only 15m away! It was a massive beast and lucky for them they were talking loud and that somehow scared the bear, which quickly ran away. When back on the boat, they wondered: Why was this polar bear up there in the middle of nowhere where there is absolutely no food? Then they realized that the bear must have followed them on the 3h walk to the top of the mountain. It was there only because he had smelled a nice meal. Ben and Oli were very lucky! The bear was surprised when they were walking straight towards it. From then on we were a little more cautious again.

Gibbs Fjord (photo: archive Nicolas Favresse)

Our last days on Baffin island we could feel winter arriving with the sea starting to freeze along the coast and the snow line dropping all the way down to sea level. Although there was so much more to do, it was time for us to make our way back to Greenland. With the perspective of rough sailing conditions, we knew the adventure wasn’t over. Indeed the crossing was tough because it was cold and snowy but the worst happened as we came in sight of Greenland. A big storm surprised us on the most tricky part of the crossing only 6 miles away from our destination! We had to weave through lots of rocks and low depth while the waves suddenly became huge. The boat was crashing in the waves and we were all wet and cold but thankfully we found shelter behind a little island and eventually reached the harbor of Sisimiut… That was the end of the adventure. Again, sailing and climbing proved to be a perfect combination.

In total we opened 10 new routes from 400 to 1000 meter and climbed in alpine style. We used the boat as a base camp and way of transportation to the base of each climb. We placed no bolts or pitons.

– Nico -”

Summary of climbs (coordinates are taken from the sea opposite to the start of routes):

Uummannaq Area (Greenland)

Ikerasak Peak:– Married Mens’ Way E3, 5.10, 400 meters
Takes the left ridge of this peak. FA (free): Oli Favresse and Ben Ditto on the 13th of July 2014
Descend: Walking on the back side

– Crockodiles Have Teeth E5, 5.11b/c, 400 meters
The right hand edge of the main face, moving right at the top to finish by an overhanging crack. FA (free): Nico Favresse and Sean Villaneuva on the 13th of July 2014
Descend: Walking on the back side

Qaqugdlugssuit:
– First ascent of Goliath Buttress (700 41N 510 13W)Standard Deviation E4, 5.11, 500 meters
Followed lines on left of this buttress, some loose rock especially in the basalt band. FA (free): Nico Favresse and Ben Ditto on the 17th of July 2014
Descend: Walking on the back side

– Slingshot E3, 5.10, 500 meters
Followed lines on right side of buttress. FA (free) Oli Favresse and Sean Villaneuva Sean on the 17th of July 2014
Descend: Walking on the back side

Drygalskis Halvo:
– First ascent of the Funky Tower (70035N 510 16W)No Place for People, a.k.a.Sunshine and Roses E6, 5.12a, 500 meters
A steep, varied, technical line towards the left side of this face. Reports of much loose rock, especially on the sloping terrace leading to the summit ridge. FA (free) Sean Villaneuva and Ben Ditto
Descend: Walking on the back side

Sam Ford Fjord (Baffin East coast)

Lurking Tower (Mike Libecki’s name – 700 35N 710 17W)– Up the Creek without a Paddle E5 6a, 5.11+, 500 meters
Starts up the dihedral on the right and follows crack lines, turning a roof, to the top. Libecki’s aid route was followed after 7 pitches but without using any of the aid nor bolts. First Free Ascent: Sean
Villaneuva and Ben Ditto, 12 hours on the 15th/16th of August 2014
Descend: Walking on the back side

Super Unknown Tower:– Imaginary Line E3 5c, 5.10+, 1000 meters
Takes the obvious red groove and crack on the right of the Tower leading almost to the top. The hardest pitches were after the groove at the top, especially as it was wet and snowy. This was the second ascent of the Super Unknown Tower. First Free Ascent: Sean Villaneuva and Ben Ditto on the 21st/22nd of August 2014
Descend: A rappel to remember straight down the original sheer aid route.

Walker Citadel:
– First ascent of the South East Pillar (Drunken Pillar) (700 50N 710 43W)Shepton’s Shove E6 6b, 5.12a, 1000 meters
The obvious arête starting all the way down and leading to the top of the Pillar. The hardest pitches were at the top. FA (free): Nico and Oli Favresse on the 23rd/24th August 2014
Descend: Walk south to another summit and down into a gulley leading to a lake.

The Turret:
– First ascent of the East face of the TurretLife on the Kedge E6 6b, sustain in the 5.11/5.12 range, 900 meters
Start on the buttress just to the right of the iconic chimney crack splitting the Turret from top to bottom, and takes the obvious orange pillar. Mid ways up, the lines goes on the left hand side where the cracks just kept coming out of nowhere! FA Nico and Oli Favresse on the 28th/29th of August 2014
Descend: 10 raps down the Swiss route straight from the top

Gibbs Fjord (Baffin Island):

Plank Wall:
– First ascent of the Plank Wall (700 50N 710 43W)Walking the Plank E4 6a, 5.11+, 900 meters
Keeps mostly slightly left of the arête. Another quality climb with lot’s of steep cracks and excellent rock! But north facing, little sun. Sections were climbed covered in snow. FA Nico Favresse and Sean Villaneuva on the 4th/5th of September 2014
Descend: Rapping the route

Black Diamond stands for the clean climbing revolution through its world’s most trusted mobile protection gear. We are proud that our athlete’s are carrying the clean climbing approach to the most spectacular rock faces in this world by pushing themselves to their limits. More info about mobile protection gear.

Roland is popular for his true commitment to the clean climbing approach! For Zarathustra (Kufstein, Austria), a superhard unclimbed project since 1996, he even used no bolts for his ascent – trusting birdpeaks, stoppers and camalots from BD. By working on his project on a fixed rope, he realized that it could be done by trad and decided to leave the bolts aside.

However, while projecting the route, Roland decided to pre-place the gear, as the moves were to unstable to climb and place the gear at the same time.

“It took me another two years to finally see the solution, and during this time I realized that I would be able to climb the route in a cleaner style. On the fixed rope I removed the bolts and replaced them with birdpeaks, stoppers, camalots and pitons, gear I’m used to during my Alpine climbing. And the cool thing on this project is, that the route is literally next to my house.

“For 15 years ice climbers from around the world have met on the first weekend of January in Kandersteg to take part in the largest and most important Ice climbing event in the Alps. Kandersteg kicks off the ice climbing season each year and attracts over 600 Ice climbing professionals, hobby ice climbers, beginners to the sport of ice climbing and spectators from all over Europe.

Professional ice climbers together with experienced mountain guides will run ice climbing workshops for beginners to advanced climbers; you will hear of stories of adventures and gain valuable tips and tricks from your guides.”

Door het gebruik van Gore-Tex is de schoen volledig waterdicht en ventilerend. De jury van de OutDoor Industry Awards liet er geen misverstand over bestaan:“The Trango Cube Gore-Tex mountaineering shoe is convincing thanks to its light weight along with the material used and the outstanding comfort fit. This shoe is way out front in terms of design as well – and really deserves a GOLD award!”