looks good, but for safety issues,I’d like to have the area in front of the blade as large as possible. you can also use a sheet of masonite (hardboard) and rip it until it covers the table while the fence is positioned for your additional rip cuts – install the splitter, and you have a full sleek surface to rip on top of.

Good point, Sharon. Covering the full depth of the table is advisable.

Masonite (hardboard) is generally only available in 3mm (1/8”) sheets in the UK (far too thin to attach a riving knife or splitter into and expect it to stand upright for long), hence the reference to using, thicker, MDF.

I cut various table inserts for my saw out of MDF. I have a zero clearance, dado, etc. I cut them to fit into the hole of the stock insert with a scroll saw. Just trace the stock insert onto the wood and cut. Sand as needed to fit. Then I planed it down to be flush with the table. Another issue is lowering the insert over the blade to cut the slot for said blade. I use to do it this way. Then I had a very close call and was scared to do it that way. It takes a lot to rattle me, but this scared the snot out of me. Now, I let my blade all the way down into the table. Put the insert in place. Turn the saw on. Use a scrap piece of wood to hold the insert down so it doesn’t try to rise upwards. Then turn the saw on and slowly raise it up though the insert. I’ve never had any problems doing it this way and feel it is much safer.

William – I agree with you on making ZCI for western saws – but if you’ll notice, Martyns saw doesn’t have a factory insert that can be replaced, which is why he suggested the topper-zero clearance concept.

I forgot to mention the riving knife. This may not work on all saws. Mine is a Rigid 3650. Making the insert the way I do on my saw, it is still thick enough (about 1/2”) to put in a riving knife the way you showed. I also have one made that way. I have one thin blade I use when very seldom, but when I do, I had to make a riving knife like you because my stock knife was too thick. Actually, the thickness of my riving knife is exactly why I don’t care for thin blades much. I like my stock knife with the anti-kickback pawls on it. Also, my safety sheild is attached to the stock riving knife.

I’m sorry. I thought that round piece lifted out like my factory insert. If it doesn’t, then I can see why you’d do it as he’s described. If possible, I’d still suggest raising the running blade up instead of lowering the wood over a moving blades for safery reasons, if this is possible.

I’ll second the raising of the blade as well. although since you are partially ripping the (somewhat) thick MDF, and wedging a splitter behind the blade – I don’t even see a need to lower the panel ,nor raise the blade. Just set the blade to rip through the MDF but instead of a full through rip, stop in the middle. stop saw, wedge splitter. done deal.