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4 wires goes as such with the red wire going on the right side,the black wire going on the left,the white wire goes on the center terminal. Now what exactly do you do with the green wires is what your asking yourself. It goes onto the cabinet after removing that little link that went from the center terminal that was beweeen the cabinet and and the white wire terminal.Yes remove that link and install the green wire where that link was just attached to a minute ago.

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then: Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back of the machine and try tolocate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will findthe heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape. If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could causea fire, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then: Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back of the machine and try tolocate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will findthe heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape. If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could causea fire, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. I will include these two websites for parts and further help: http://www.partselect.com/http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspxBoth also have chat assistance 24/7. Good Luck, Hope this helps Please rate me, Thank you

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.#2-Canister for the heater element.#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode. You
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil.Remove the back of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor.Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.If the heating coil is ok, then:You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape. If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a fire, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.I will include these two websites for parts and further help:http://www.partselect.com/http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspxBoth also have chat assistance 24/7.Good Luck,Hope this helpsPlease rate me,Thank you

All the heating and temperature control components are located in the back of the dryer. To access, unplug the dryer and remove the exhaust vent hose. Turn the the dryer around so you can view the back and remove the back panel. With the panel removed, the component locations are as follows:

Right-Hand Side:

1. Heating element - located inside the heater box. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is about 9 to 13 ohms.

2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

3. Hi-Limit Thermostat - located on the outside of the heater box adjacent to the heating element terminals. It works in conjunction with the TCO to help regulate the drum internal temperature. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, it is recommended that you replace BOTH components to prevent premature failure. These two components are commonly sold as a set.

Left-Hand Side:

1. Thermal Fuse - located on the blower fan housing. It is a small white plastic looking component with two wires attached. If defective, the dryer will not run at all. If the component is good it should read a short (0 ohms).

2. Internal Bias Thermostat - located on the blower fan housing adjacent to the Thermal Fuse. It has four wires attached to it.

NOTE: All resistance checks should be performed with the component terminal wires disconnected to prevent false readings.

If you have any questions, you can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you. The components I mention are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as follows:

On a/c voltage , if you have 2 terminals on a part , it won't matter which terminal the wire goes on . There are several red wires in that area ,so if it goes to the thermostat , it doesn't matter which terminal on the thermostat it goes on .

Hi, if you are talking about thewire on element and thermal stat, the element terminals are usually wider then the thermal stat. Does this help? Please let me know. I cam try and get a wiring diagram with a model #.