I think I might like a bigger target for my thumbs ... what about the following option:

1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 2.75 - 2.75 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25

Also, I like how the right side of row 3 ends in 1u - 1.25u, rather than the 1.25u - 1u of the JD40. I'm trying to concoct some method in my head where I can reverse those 2 keys on my SmallFry by doing some surgery on the keycap mounts

I think I might like a bigger target for my thumbs ... what about the following option:

1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 2.75 - 2.75 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25

Also, I like how the right side of row 3 ends in 1u - 1.25u, rather than the 1.25u - 1u of the JD40. I'm trying to concoct some method in my head where I can reverse those 2 keys on my SmallFry by doing some surgery on the keycap mounts

I could include that, theoretically, but I was trying to keep it stabilizer-free.

I think I might like a bigger target for my thumbs ... what about the following option:

1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 2.75 - 2.75 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25

Also, I like how the right side of row 3 ends in 1u - 1.25u, rather than the 1.25u - 1u of the JD40. I'm trying to concoct some method in my head where I can reverse those 2 keys on my SmallFry by doing some surgery on the keycap mounts

I could include that, theoretically, but I was trying to keep it stabilizer-free.

I guess if I were paying more attention I would have seen that's what you were going for. Ignore me

So, JD & I have PM'd about this, since I occasionally deal with a shop with a giant laser ... My own self, I'd like to see a "GON Skinny" case made of the plate. Its small enough to extend to the left/right, bend twice, and you've got 'feet' to hold it up. 304 stainless would be strong enough but if you wanted aluminum, you might extend the top and bottom...More 'foot' to solder around when it gets that far but so long as you have the cutouts you probably only have to deal with it once.

How tall are those "legs" ... one inch? That'd be enough to clear the PCB and teensy-with-pin-plastics, right?

No way. I love the split spacebar. No stabs to deal with and this gives us an extra modifier key we can program to whatever we want/need. I'm honestly hoping more boards go down this route in the future. Most of us only hit the spacebar in a fairly controlled space/area, anyways.

No way. I love the split spacebar. No stabs to deal with and this gives us an extra modifier key we can program to whatever we want/need. I'm honestly hoping more boards go down this route in the future. Most of us only hit the spacebar in a fairly controlled space/area, anyways.

Yeah, spacebar is staying split on this one. If you want a long spacebar, there's always the JD40.

If you want, you can configure the bottom row as 1-1.25-1.25-1.25-[space]-[space]-1.25-1.25-1.25-1, so you have 3.5-unit for your spacebar(s), and plenty of symmetry to work with on both sides.

I'm very interested in this. For the same reason we don't include the F# (function row) on 60% keyboards I also prefer not to use the number row on keyboards when I can have a virtual numpad on a function layer.

The only comment I would have is that my thumb usually rests on the spacebar between where the third and fourth keys on the homerow would be (D and F) so on your layout my thumb wouldn't reach the 1.75 keys, but the keys one spot outwards towards the edges of the board from them.

If you could have a variation of the bottom row where the 1.75 keys could be moved slightly outwards it would be wonderful. If not I could just use the 1.25 keys as spacebar/backspace though so it certainly wouldn't be the end of the world.

I'll try to knock out an MX/Alps PCB later today. May I add an optional spacebar position?

Where should CAPS, NUM and FN be?

- Ron | samwisekoiSig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.

Awesome, thanks, Ron! You can add whatever spacebar positions you feel would be useful. I usually assign Caps Lock to a function layer on the 1.25 key on the second row. Fn I usually put on the bottom row somewhere, and Num Lock as a fn layer on Esc.

Further work on the bottom row has occurred. I can make everything work EXCEPT bi-lateral symmetry for Alps. There is no combination of switch positions that enable Alps switches to be mirrored on the bottom row without impacting the 4-way MX options.

I can do non-mirrored symmetry for Alps switches, e.g.

1 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1.75 - 1.75 - 1 - 1.25 - 1.25 - 1.25.

Should I make using Alps switches possible, but not optimal?

JD's or Alps-fan's input would be helpful here.

- Ron | samwisekoiSig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.

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I like keyboards and case modding. Everything about a computer should be silent -- except the KEYBOARD!

Looks real good Ron. Some pointers on how you go about deciding the position fro the Teensy and then running those tracks would be immensely helpful.

Thanks.

Ok; I'll try. This is not completely set in stone, but here are the steps I used to get to the incomplete layout attached. (OBTW, The latest layout is attached.)PHASE ONE: THE SWITCH LAYOUT:

1. Start with a switch footprint in a .75x.75" outer boundary, and an inner .55x.55' boundary marked as well.2. Place a diode and a resistor between the inner and outer perimeter.3. Add row and column traces (and LED signal and ground traces, if applicable), and run them to the edge of the outer boundary.4. Replicate the initial cell into a short row to see how it fits together. Return to Step 2 until they fit together properly.5. Take another switch foot print (as used in Step 1) and place it anywhere in the test row to find problems. Return to Step 2 until there are no problems.6. Take PCB-mount stabilizer patterns and place them in the test row to find problems. Return to Step 2 until there are no problems.7. Take the resulting product of the iteration process, and use it as a base cell for PCB layout. NOTE: Sometimes the resulting base cell contains two switches. This is typically the case when there are multiple places with optional 2x switch positions, like a numpad area.

8. Carefully lay out the first row of switch positions. Check for problems, and probably go all the way back to Step 2.9. Lay out the rest of the rows EXCEPT THE BOTTOM ROW. Check for problems, and possibly go all the way back to Step 2.10. Lay out the bottom row. Check carefully for shorts and pads inside of holes. Avoid stabilizer keep-away zones.11. Publish the draft layout to get member feedback. Iterate Steps 8-11 as needed until consensus or approval is obtained.12. Publish the "final" switch layout and announce that no more input will be welcomed EXCEPT problems identified with the layout.

Now you have the board, populated by switch cells and extra mounting positions.PHASE TWO: BASELINE TRACES AND CONTROLLER:

1. Connect the row, column, and LED traces where stagger has left gaps. Do this carefully to avoid shorts and gaps.2. Identify any peculiarities with the matrix, and adjust the rows and columns to fix this problem.EXAMPLE: On the JD45, the upper-right switch is physically in Row 1, Column 13. But it would be the only switch in Column 13, which would be a waste of a pin. So, In this case, I ended Row 1 with Column 12, and re-assigned physical R1C13 to electrical Row 4, Column 12. This is a slight hassle in layout and firmware, but it means that the PCB remains electrically a 12x4 grid, which will reduce pin count and possibly allow re-use of the JD40 firmware.

3. Find a place where the Teensy will fit around the switch positions. Avoid as many passives as possible, as they will be buried. Also, take care to avoid blocking traces from switch pads that can't be moved. On this layout, that meant ensuring that Teensy pins B3, B7, and D0 are offset to allow the LED leads for switch 2,12 to escape between the Teensy's pads.

NOTE: Don't forget to mirror the Teensy so it is in the proper orientation on the opposite side of the PCB from the switches!

This step requires trial and error, and typically I get it wrong for the first few passes. Also, it may need to be moved once I try to connect row, column, and LED traces.

I try to keep the Teensy as far up the PCB as I can, to go with the natural slope of the keyboard. A surface-mount controller can fit under the spacebar or over the arrow-cluster, but not so much the Teensy, unless you are willing to have a very tall keyboard. For the JD45, I placed it over switch 2,12 because that position had the fewest components in the way.

Thanks Ron, I'm well-versed with everything that has been mentioned thus far (Thanks to regack <3), but in all my attempts, I get stuck after placing the Teensy or the controller circuit under the spacebar, then routing the signal traces, specially with the SMT controller and it's associated components.

Thanks Ron, I'm well-versed with everything that has been mentioned thus far (Thanks to regack <3), but in all my attempts, I get stuck after placing the Teensy or the controller circuit under the spacebar, then routing the signal traces, specially with the SMT controller and it's associated components.

I think I just need to practice more :/

I'll finish the process flow as I finish the layout. Next up will be the steps you wonder about.

And for me, practicing at increasing scale is key. First I did the GH LED strip PCB. Then came the GH36. Now the JD45 just for practice. Soon the GH-122/153, which will be the ultimate keyboard PCB.

I do a lot of exercises as well. PCB layouts that never go anywhere. Experiments with controller traces. Sometimes I just take a controller and make traces from the controller out to stub traces. This lets me try different paths and combinations.

Anyhow, yes. Practice layouts, and try to get some of them printed so you get real-world experience with how your designs turn out when you try to solder them up.

- Ron | samwisekoi

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I like keyboards and case modding. Everything about a computer should be silent -- except the KEYBOARD!