Saturday, December 31, 2016

On the 21 December the weather was chilly, there no way we were making it far enough south for a crossing to the Bahamas, so we decided to spend Christmas exploring St Augustine. We have had brief visits before, a night in the mooring field, meeting friends at A1A1 micro brewery, exploring the sailors exchange or west marine, but this time we decided to be tourists.

St Augustine has a festival of lights that runs from Nov 19 to Jan 3, they hang over three million lights, so if all you wanted to do was sit on a balcony at the pub or stroll and enjoy the lights its pretty spectacular. They have an abundance of trolly trains shuttling the hoards of tourist around, all singing different off key Christmas songs, it cant help but make you smile and cant help but get you into the Christmas spirit.

There is just so much to see and do I just wanted to tell you about three stops we made

Because of the generosity of boater friends we got hooked onto the pirate series Black Sail a fictional pirate adventure about the Golden Age of pirates and the survival of New Providence. Island -- a debauched paradise teeming with pirates, prostitutes, thieves and fortune seekers. So I cover my head at the violence and leaning in closer every time Long John Silver hits the screen, I am hooked. So hitting up the St Augustine Pirate & Treasure museum was a must. It was exceptionally well done and though there was nothing linking the Bahamas reading about Calico Jack, Anne Bonnie, Long, John Silver was a hoot.

Secondly, we visited the Government House Museum Dugout Canoe exhibit. #1 it was free, every sailors dream, but it was also interesting. In 2000 there was a drought causing Newnans Lake near Gainesville Florida to drop. A science teacher was out with his class when they came upon 101 prehistoric canoes which had been hidden for centuries. Before the drought ended and the rising lake waters covered the canoes again it was revealed that the canoes aged from 500 to 5000 years old. Happily, there was also a Canadian link to the Haida people and their seaman ship connection and famous big red cedar canoes.

Lastly we explored Flagler College or the Ponce de Leon Hotel built in 1885 by Henry M Flagler a millionaire developer. It is said that his first wife was sick and on the advice of doctors they should winter south, so the Flagler’s did, but sadly his wife passed. Henry was hooked on the area and became a key figure in the development of the Florida east coast.

Interesting fact: When electricity was first installed at the Ponce de Leon by Thomas Edison Henry’s buddy, Flagler had to hire staff to turn the lights on and off because the guest were afraid to touch the switches.

As a closing note we enjoyed our time in St Augustine very much, the mooring balls were solid, the marina facilities were clean, and theres a great Wednesday night gathering at Anna O Malley's but, we pulled anchor early on Christmas morning, no water stagnates under this captains keel

Thursday, December 29, 2016

We woke this morning before the sun came up to geese honking and herons squawking, I was pretty excited. We are anchored on Broward Creek just west of the ICW, about four miles north of Sisters Creek. I love it here, this beautiful salt marsh area is so full of life. When the six foot tide recedes it leaves large stinky areas of exposed muck with more water life that I cant begin to imagine and greenery that becomes a complete breakfast table for the pelicans, terns, cranes, herons, egrets, cormorants, and ducks that inhabit the area. Coffee in hand we watch the sun come up.

Our mission for today was to visit the Kingsley plantation, located on Fort George Island a quick dingy ride from our anchorage. We weren’t disappointed, both Marc and I thought it was one of the most interesting tours we have ever taken. We used the GPS guided system that talked you in the historic voices of those that lived there, through the 15 points of interest. Word of warning though, you needed patience it was long and detailed.

OK, so I’m not going to bore you with the whole story but interest you with the juicy bits:

In 1814 Zephaniah Kingsley, his wife and three children bought this plantation, accessible only by boat, to produce prized sea island cotton.

Zephaniah Kingsley’s wife Anna was a slave from Senegal West Africa that he had purchased in 1806 in Havana Cuba at the age of 13. Zephaniah freed Anna in 1811 were she was able to have her own plantation and slaves also becoming her husbands business partner.

Under Spanish control Florida had fairly radical liberal ideas for the era, there were three levels of society; whites, freed Blacks, and slaves. Slaves worked under the task system, a task was a specific amount of work expected daily, such as house work, carpentry or in the fields and when their task was completed the remainder of their day was theirs to tend to their own families needs such as gardening or making money through their skills, enabling them to buy their freedom.

Now they don’t say that Zephaniah never beat a slave, but it is implied that he and Anna believed in reaping the benefits of hope rather than the whip, after all Anna, a black woman was a slave master. Oh and another juicy tidbit Zephaniah was a palligamist, Anna was the first of four sister wives.

Added benefits of the stop Peacocks wandering the plantation and my heart just about stopped from excitement when we spotted an armadillo

And as if our day hadn’t been perfect enough, we were eating dinner in the cock pit when three dolphins swam beside the boat. I think of dolphins as special good luck, and this trip seems to be filled with lots of luck

Saturday, December 24, 2016

Other than Marc and I being completely thrilled that we are off the dock, in the warmth, sailing south for the winter, I was thinking, what could I possibly have to blog about? Then we arrived in Jacksonville Landing, again…

Though Jacksonville Landing is only 24-25 miles north of Green Coves Springs, it is a really nice way to start our trip south, often when we talk to other cruisers and ask if they stop, they say they bypass Jacksonville Landing. For the life of me, I don’t know why. It is an awesome over night stop to start your journey. When we were here on the 28 Dec 2014 we tied to the wall just south of the landing, enjoyed the view, people watched, ran the Jacksonville bridge, enjoyed a free concert, drank a cold margarita. This year though, Hurricane Mathew has damaged the docks making over nighting directly at the festival type landing a no go. Thankfully the public docking north of the Fuller Warren Bridge was empty. Jacksonville Landing has a lovely walkway that runs along the river, so we walked from the bridge to the landing to enjoy the tall, beautiful 50+ foot Christmas tree that dominates the square and responds to the tempo of the Christmas music being played. Other than the spiritual significance of Christmas, I don’t feel very Christmasy down here without family, snow, and constant carols in stores. But this one night, filled with music, people dancing, little girls playing, is as close as I can get to home.

Morning Fuller Warren Bridge

The walk back to the boat was a different walk, than the walk to the landing. The shiny buildings were dark and the homeless were huddled on benches and tucked under bushes as out of sight as much as possible. Guiltily,I felt nervous, but I shouldn’t have, they were just looking for a warm place to sleep. We had an uneventful night, other than a gentleman standing on the dock, grading our boat, who shared with his female friend much to my captains ire, that size matters. When we woke the next morning the fog was thick and ominous, but as it cleared that same walk way was filled with hundreds of runners and walkers and just south of us under the bridge was a fantastic market with potters, fresh veggies, baking and crafts. The market didn’t open until ten, but we poked around for an hour before it opened and came away with fresh tomatoes, grapefruit and cinnamon buns.

He uses natural elements such as leaves and incorporates them into his work

Same stop, same time of year, one mile difference in docking made two completely different experiences.

Fun Jacksonville fact: In the early 1900’s Jacksonville boasted mild temperatures, low cost labour, and easy rail access to become the “ Winter Film Capital of the World” with more than 30 studios. In the 1920’s, local politicians forced the studios to go elsewhere, and Hollywood was born.

Thursday, December 1, 2016

Its hard to believe, that its been over a month since we left home, so much has happened and yet so little.

When I wrote the first draft of this note I was this sitting cuddled up in the V berth, under a thick comforter, because its was to darn cold to get up. The temperature was dropping to the low 50sF during the nights and highs of 70s when the sun warmed things up in the afternoons. Now a week later we’ve been sleeping with minimal coverings, hatch open, fan on. It is unseasonably warm for this time of year in Florida and from the pictures we see posted, much of Canada is also enjoying unseasonably warm weather with a snow storm tossed in every so often just to remind you where you live.

See I Told You We Were Cold

Staying in the B&B for two weeks was definitely the best decision we made, then getting DevOcean into the water as fast as possible was the second best. Green Cove Springs Marina is a working marina, and as I’ve said before its hard being on the hard. It’s dirty, the fresh water hoses can sometimes trickle, electrical breakers have been known to blow, but, it’s relatively cheap, there is good access to parts at reasonable prices with often with next day delivery, if you have a car, replenishing is fairly easy. Best of all the work yard is always full of a great cruising community willing to lend a hand, or share a sun downer and the staff is second to none.

Don't Judge, The Sun Shade Protects The Inside of the Boat But Causes...

No Matter Which Way I Turn

Can You See DevOcean?

Marc Hunting for Boat Parts No Matter Where We Explore

Hurricane Mathew Damaged The Aging WW2 Pier

Hurricane Mathew damaged the aging WW2 pier that was already falling to pieces so when we launched there was no room on the pier to wait out our stay. We actually got evicted… Our intent was to book a slip at Reynolds Park Marina for the month, but it seems their policies have changed, and space is not available for month long dockage and it appears even more limited if you use long term store at Green Cove Springs Marina. I think a little business some’n, some’n is going on between the two marinas, so this is why we are waiting out our time in a pretty little anchorage about two miles across from GCSM. No biggie, Marc and I prefer the hook other than the connivence of a dock.

At Anchor

The night after we anchored, just before dinner we were settling in the cock pit ,when I looked across the river and saw a large plume of smoke and flames at GCSM. Marc and I watched in horror and hoped for the best. It seems that the owner from Monkey Fist Chandlery and two of his employees were transferring fuel, the bilge pump came on and ignited the fuels fumes, causing an explosion. The three guys jumped over board to escape the flames. Sadly Steve and Randy had first and second degree burns and were transferred to the burn unit. Four boats were destroyed from the fire. Our thoughts and prayers go out to these guy and the others that lost thier boats