2. Heat a 10- to 12-inch skillet over medium heat. When it is hot, add the sausage. Cook, breaking up the sausage into small pieces with a wooden spoon, until the fat is rendered and the sausage has lost its pink color. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat. Add the radicchio, stir well, and cook, stirring until it is soft and well blended with the sausage, about 4 minutes. Season with salt to taste, and transfer to a large mixing bowl.

3. Meanwhile, fill a 10-quart stockpot with 7 quarts of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the 2 tablespoons salt. Add the pasta, stir, and cook until al dente. Drain the pasta and add to the bowl with the sausage. Add the milk and eggs and mix well. Pour into the prepared dish and sprinkle the top with the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

4. Transfer to the oven and bake until the top looks a bit crunchy and golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Let rest for 15 minutes before serving.

Wine: A rich dish with bitterness from the radicchio, this requires a full and intense red like Brunello di Montalcino. Two of my favorite estates are Argiano and Colombini Barbi. If you choose a different estate, make sure that the wine is at least 5 or 6 years old.

There's a time and a place for thin crust. But when you're craving something extra, super gooey, cheesy, doughy, and just plain hearty, there's nothing more satisfying than one of these deep dish pizzas.