And the vivid recipes not only conjure the lands that inspired them, but make the familiar intriguing again.

Haines' Mid-week Falafel is rolled in sesame seeds, baked not fried, and served with a date and lemon chutney instead of the usual tahini dressing. Chicken Livers with Szechwan Peppercorns and Pears points to richness, heat and sweetness all at once. And the book's many Spanish recipes (think Seville Duck with Oranges and Olives) suggest fishermen and tumbling bougainvillea.

The book is arranged into categories that reflect mood, eating style or time commitment, such as "Mid-week Speed" and "Luxury Sundays," and offers to sate the experienced cook's hunger for something extraordinary any day of the week, for any occasion. But the key word is "experienced."

This is not a book for beginners and even old hands must be ready to commit. The budget busting list of spices that Haines calls "essential" include amchur, allspice berries, cassia bark, cardamom (which comes in green and brown), kokum, juniper berries and four different types of peppercorns and paprika. The book's comprehensive glossary describes each spice, how to choose it, use it and store it, but not where to find it.

Haines also assumes a great deal of culinary knowledge. Istanbul Street Mussels requires soaking currants and grinding fennel seeds but skips directions on removing the mussels' tough beards. She asks cooks to toast and crush "two blades of mace," to cook chicken livers "to your liking," and encourages them to create personal spice blends by thinking "about the flavor combinations and how they might work with the other ingredients you have in mind."

All very sophisticated stuff.

That said, this marvelous book offers a user-friendly education on spices that will not only improve your culinary game show prospects but promises some very fine eating in the meantime.

BOOK: Michal Haines' "The Spice Kitchen," Interlink Books, 2009.

Eggplant Rolls with

Honey, Mint, Sesame Seeds

This easy eggplant dish is great as a summer appetizer or as part of a mezze platter.

Start to finish: 25 minutes

Servings: 4

2 large eggplants, tops trimmed, cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips

Vegetable or grapeseed oil

FIRST GRAPH MISSING. USE DROP CAP STYLE SHEET. tsp. salt

6 tbsp. honey

6 tbsp. finely chopped fresh mint

6 tsp. sesame seeds, toasted in a dry pan until brown

Juice of 1 lemon

Heat the oven to 350 F

On a rimmed baking sheet, arrange the eggplant strips leaving a little space between each. Moisten each with vegetable oil, then sprinkle them with the salt.

Bake for 15 minutes, or until brown and soft. Remove from the oven and cool, patting them with paper towels to remove excess oil.

Drizzle eggplant strips with honey, then sprinkle them with some of the mint and some of the sesame seeds. Roll up each slice and arrange on a serving plate. Sprinkle the lemon juice over rolls, then scatter the remaining mint and sesame seeds over the top.