Marni

CRAFT CONSCIOUSMilan: Although she opened with clean, mod shift dresses, it wasn’t long before Marni’s Consuelo Castiglione returned to her beloved geometric prints, using stamped, interlocking circles, stripes and chevrons to extend the collection’s retro theme. Flirtatious but conservative, skirt and short suits recalled an era of demure femininity, even when embellished with artsy mesh patchwork, layered paillettes, glass discs, plastic floral appliqués, intricate beadwork and macramé panels. Earthy browns, deep greens and refreshing white accentuated these details and patterns, but vibrant, acidic florals were less successful, straying into territory well covered by other designers and out of step with Marni’s grounded craftiness. Accessories were both ladylike and eccentric, including spectator pumps, color-blocked enamel bangles, sheer ankle socks and rigid frame clutches — an expressive amalgam of Castiglione’s kooky, creative woman.—Nina Stotler