Cape Lookout, NC (7-6-13)

The Cape Lookout lighthouse has a long and varied history. Sitting on a wide spit of land at the southeastern tip of the outermost Outer Banks the coastline it overlooks has long been known for its dangerous currents and hidden shoals. Thus, it didn't take long for the U.S. Government to realize the pressing need for a light station to oversee the passage of ships in this area. In 1805 Congress authorized the construction of a light at Cape Lookout with the first tower being completed and lit in 1812. Standing 96 feet tall the structure was almost immediately recognized as inadequate, its light only shining a maximum of 11 miles rather than the necessary 18 miles. Painted a unique red and white, the light shone for 47 years regardless of its inadequacies before the present light was built nearby and began operation in 1859. The 1st Order Fresnel lens was brought over from the olf lighthouse where, now standing 169 feet above the waves, it was able to shine a more effective 19 miles out to sea.

Unfortunately for the new light, the winds of war began blowing through the country shortly after it began service. Nearby Bodie Island Light was dynamited and, it seemed, the same fate was soon in store for Cape Lookout. The attempt to blow up the lighthouse failed, however, though minor damage was done. The light remained shining and in Union hands when, in 1863, Confederates again attempted to destroy the light. Their attempts once again failed, though this second explosion destroyed a portion of the stairway and the oil supply. The light was repaired soon after the war and events at the light settled down to more mundane levels. The current keepers dwelling was completed in 1873 and housed both the head and assistant light keepers until 1907 when a separate dwelling was constructed so each could have their own space. 1873 also saw the lighthouse painted for the first time in its distinguishing black-and-white diamond pattern. Then came the two World Wars, which brought excitement of a different type. Offshore, German U-boats hunted for Allied shipping along the U.S. coast. Hundreds of ships were lost, many within sight of Cape Lookout (one tanker was sunk in Lookout Bight, only a mile or two from the light!). Soon after the war, in 1950, the light was automated and the 1907 dwelling was sold and moved away. In 1975 the lighthouse's historic, beating heart was removed as the old Fresnel Lens was replaced in favor of more modern beacons. In 2003 the National Park Service took possession of the light as a unit of the Cape Lookout National Seashore and set about restoring it and opening it to the public for tours.

Cape Lookout has been on my radar as a Class A lighthouse to tour but the difficulty (read here, 'expense') of visiting had thus far kept me away. Until the end of 2013, to get to the light, you must utilize one of the many private ferry operators in the area. After 2013, the NPS is consolidating ferry services and from all initial reports, the price is likely to jump once this happens. So, we thought, there was no time like the present to go...besides, it was my birthday, and I couldn't think of a better way to spend the day than touring one of the Outer Banks grandest old lighthouses...

We intended to make a stop at the Cape Lookout National Seashore Visitor Center on Harker's Island, which I had heard was quite nice. Unfortunately, it was closed when we arrived so I really can't comment on it aside from that it looks nice...

For now (2013) access to the lightouse is possible through the use of local ferry operators, such as Calico Jack's which we used. However, starting in 2014, the National Park Service will be regulating a smaller number of ferry service operators which could raise rates...thus, our decision to visit this year...

We boarded a zippy little skiff for the short trip across Back Sound and our guide was nice enough to take us close by the shore of the barrier island where there were a number of wild horses grazing along the beach...

I initially thought that these adjacent ruins might be the remnants of the original lighthouse, completed in 1812 and in service until 1859. I found out, surprisingly, that no one at the park really knows what these ruins are from. Fascinating...

Splotches of orange and red were scattered all over the dunes, marking the locations of the fiery Blanket Flower (also known as Indian Blanket). Originally from the west the plants were long ago brought east where they've thrived on the barrier island dunes...

1873 Keepers Dwelling - The existing keepers dwelling was the first of two constructed at the lighthouse. Built in 1873, it housed both the Head and Assistant Keepers until a separate home for the Head Keeper was completed in 1907. The 1907 structure was sold off to a private party after the light was automated in the 1950's, at which point it was moved to a new location on the island. The current, 1873 structure, was abandoned at that point until the National Park Service took ownership in 2003. It's now been completely restored and serves to give visitors a glimpse into the lives of the keepers at Cape Lookout as well as a nice shady spot to sit and enjoy the sea breeze...

The tour followed the Park Guide up the tower and, as I was in the midst of a small crowd, I couldn't stop for many pics on the ascent. A couple open windows allowed us to gauge how far we'd climbed and offered some welcome breezes inside the otherwise muggy tower...

Looking northeast from the catwalk atop Cape Lookout. The visitor center and ferry docks lie 163' below while the empty strip of sand and grass known as the South Core Banks stretches away into the distance...

Looking north (and a bit west) from the catwalk atop Cape Lookout. Across Barden Inlet is the south end of the Shackleford Banks beyond which lies the Back Sound and Harker's Island where we had sailed from that morning...

The 180-degree panorama, north, from the catwalk atop Cape Lookout. The Shackleford Banks are to the left, with the South Core Banks stretching away to the middle, and the Atlantic Ocean extends off to the right...

Looking south from the catwalk atop Cape Lookout is Cape Lookout itself. The buildings you see along the cove in the distance belong to a now abandoned U.S. Coast Guard Station which can only be reached from the lighthouse by a 5-mile round trip hike...

A warm July sun shines down on the waters of Barden Inlet (right) and Lookout Bight (left)...nothing is finer to me than a mountain-top vista but soaking up birds-eye coastal views from an old light has to come in a (very) close second...

I know, not the most stunning picture...this low mound freckled with scattered pieces of old brick is the location of the original lighthouse at Cape Lookout. Completed in 1812, it stood some 96 feet tall and painted with horizontal red and white stripes. Almost immediately it was realized that the light was inadequate to the task it was built for though it served for 47 years until the new, present, light was built. Used as a residence for a number of years, the old tower eventually crumbled away...

The open dunes invited exploration but, as with any dune environment, cross country travel can be extremely damaging to the dunes...besides, it was about 90' so wandering to far from the water wasn't really all that appealing anyway...