How do I change the firing mode for JT excellerator 5.0????
I just bought it off craigslist (along with a tippmann for $70) and I have no f'ing clue where to find the owners manual (I LOOKED ALL OVER, and this forums search engine aint workin)
If someone could let me know what I gotta do to shoot full auto (if it can even, not sure tho) LET ME KNOW ASAP!

I am getting a JT Excellerator 6.0 and I was wondering can you run CO2 through this gun without it messing anything up? And what do you recommend besides a new barrel and hopper, that I should get upgraded on it?

I am getting a JT Excellerator 6.0 and I was wondering can you run CO2 through this gun without it messing anything up? And what do you recommend besides a new barrel and hopper, that I should get upgraded on it?

6.0s come with a foregrip regulator, which I find doesn't handle co2 very well. You would be much better off picking up a gas-thru or expansion chamber foregrip. The stock regulator just doesn't cut it in my opinion. After that, it should operate on co2 with few problems.

Besides a barrel and hopper I suggest a Spyder/Piranha Spring kit. Use a weaker spring to drop the velocity a bit.

Ok, what would be a good gas-thru or expansion chamber to get? And would the Maddman Spyder spring kit be a good choice?

32 Degrees and CP make decent gas-thrus and expansion chambers. As for spring kits just about any kind will do. I've heard good things about Maddman kits. I personally use 32 Degrees and PMI kits. Shouldn't have to spend more than 10-12 bucks on a kit.

ok migght sound like a stupid question but i have a jt excellerator 3.o/5 whatever....HOW THE HECK DO YOU TUN THE FPS DOWN?????I can not for the life of me find it anywhere.....here's a link to mu gun to show what i have http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...&id=1388283431

You turn it down at the rear of the marker. You'll find a hex screw in the cap in the lower tube. Turn it out to decrease velocity/in to increase. If that doesn't get it low enough look at Piranha/older Spyder spring kits for a weaker mainspring or cut a little off the factory mainspring with a wirecutter (half a loop or so at a time, be careful not to take too much off).

My basic problem now is Im trying to figure out if this 6.0 (may want to check the pictures Im not 100% sure its a 6.0) needs a spring guide. I would not see how it wouldnt but Im just trying to make sure. Also once you read through could you try and make a diagnosis? I would have PMed you all of this but I just registered and I cannot send PMs. Also once you read all the way through would it be a good idea to get a spring kit and new orings anyway? I appreciate your help in advance. Really want to get this gun running since I dont really have the cash to get a new one at the moment.

My basic problem now is Im trying to figure out if this 6.0 (may want to check the pictures Im not 100% sure its a 6.0) needs a spring guide. I would not see how it wouldnt but Im just trying to make sure. Also once you read through could you try and make a diagnosis? I would have PMed you all of this but I just registered and I cannot send PMs. Also once you read all the way through would it be a good idea to get a spring kit and new orings anyway? I appreciate your help in advance. Really want to get this gun running since I dont really have the cash to get a new one at the moment.

My basic problem now is Im trying to figure out if this 6.0 (may want to check the pictures Im not 100% sure its a 6.0) needs a spring guide. I would not see how it wouldnt but Im just trying to make sure. Also once you read through could you try and make a diagnosis? I would have PMed you all of this but I just registered and I cannot send PMs. Also once you read all the way through would it be a good idea to get a spring kit and new orings anyway? I appreciate your help in advance. Really want to get this gun running since I dont really have the cash to get a new one at the moment.

If the PM doesn't reach you...

OK, sounds like your 6.0 needs a rubber bumper/spring guide. I don't know where to get those from unfortunately. Try calling the JT factory number?

As for a spring kit and o-rings, look at Spyder spring kits and Spyder hammer o-rings (red in color). I've set my 6.0 with a Spyder hammer o-ring, weak hammer spring (blue spring with the PMI kits) and straight co2 and have shot 265 FPS pretty consistently.

Sounds like all you need is the bumper. Try calling the factory. If that doesn't work, let me know.

Yea, I didnt get the PM but nonetheless I guess my first venture would be to try and find a spring guide (Im obviously assuming there should be one since there isnt) and then if that doesnt work I will go with the spring kit and orings. Do you have a certain site you purchase these items from regularly? I dont really know where to go for that kind of stuff. If you could link it that would be fantastic.

Yea, I didnt get the PM but nonetheless I guess my first venture would be to try and find a spring guide (Im obviously assuming there should be one since there isnt) and then if that doesnt work I will go with the spring kit and orings. Do you have a certain site you purchase these items from regularly? I dont really know where to go for that kind of stuff. If you could link it that would be fantastic.

I buy the majority of my stuff through a local proshop. I only buy online if my dealer can't get it.
Viewloaderparts is an OK site for getting older BE/VL/JT parts, though shipping can be kind of a killer with them. I've ordered from there a couple times with no issues.

In my experience, you should have a Spyder/PMI spring kit anyway to deal with velocity fluctuations, especially when using co2. For this, refer to this post:

Quote:

Originally Posted by glaman5266

32 Degrees and CP make decent gas-thrus and expansion chambers. As for spring kits just about any kind will do. I've heard good things about Maddman kits. I personally use 32 Degrees and PMI kits. Shouldn't have to spend more than 10-12 bucks on a kit.

Also, I myself find that the regulator foregrip can hurt the marker's performance. Excellerators are high-pressure blowbacks, so they need the high pressure to operate. Why regulate it down? Not to mention the stock reg is pretty much junk and the gauge on the front block is as well. I noticed you said the gauge read 1000 psi. No tank can push out that sort of pressure unless it has an adjustable regulator (on the tank itself) or if you're playing on a hot and sunny day with co2.

Hmm so its reading the wrong PSI then because I dont think co2 tanks come with regs. On a side note I really dont want to use co2. Im planning on getting HPA tank soon I just want to fix the gun first before I put some decent money into it. As far as the foregrip what do you mean? I should take it off? Im not sure where your going with what your saying on that one.

Well, high pressure markers can have massive shootdown or not recock if the pressure/flow to the gun is insufficient. Since I had recocking issues with my 6.0 with the regulator on it, I simply swapped out the regulator for a gas-thru or expansion chamber so the marker can use the full tank output pressure to operate.
I will say this is not always the case though.

Standard co2 bottles have an output of about 750-850 psi under ideal conditions. Most HPA tanks are around there, though some can be slightly lower (650-700psi range).

The marker can work with the regulator, it may just need some tweaking and/or a different mainspring. I find the gauge to be a bit off though.
Another thing to try: Use a weaker mainspring. If the current mainspring is too strong it may be keeping the hammer from coming back all the way to recock.

For reference, I run mine with co2, an expansion chamber or gas-thru (so it takes full bottle pressure), and a weaker mainspring. Shoots about 270 FPS and recocks without the hand-over-barrel trick.