Between Sea & Sky – Picos De Europa – Asturias

One final Asturias post. I have OCD about completing and publishing every single half written post in my drafts you understand…

Whilst a lot of us head down to Southern Spain in the summer, most of Southern Spain heads North to the cooler climes of Asturias, where there is still the choice to beach worship if you still need a bit of a sun fix, or you could head straight to the mountain range a little over 2.5 hours drive from Oviedo for a spot of climbing, hiking, or some cave exploration maybe (the Picos de Europa may not be huge at 249sq miles, but they spread across three provinces – Cantabria, Asturias and Leon – and also boast some of the deepest caves in the world!), or you could simply take time out to relax in the cool and shady beauty of these magnificent rocks…

The Picos de Europa (The Peaks of Europe) might have a pretty grand name – but to ancient sailors arriving from the Americas, this mountain range must have seemed so vast and visible far from land, and it was reportedly the first sighting they had of Europe. Whether that’s actually true or not, the grand name has stuck, and I am glad, because having recently lived besides mountains for many years, it takes a very special range to completely take my breath away as they did when we rounded a corner to first see them…

A first glimpse of the Picos De Europa, taken from a moving car window (if you can’t tell by the terrible quality!).

Not that we headed straight to the mountains on that particular day, we had a couple of detours along the way, first stop Covadonga – a small town high up in the foothills famous for both historical (many believe to be the birth place of Spain – this article explains its history perfectly) and religious reasons. It has a beautiful Basilica, a holy cave that still attracts pilgrims to this day (also a final resting place for a couple of Kings no less), and various impressive buildings and statues dotted about the town square.

Fried Chorizo baguette with a glass of local cider? Oh go on then, twist my arm…

There’s also a museum focusing on everything Covadonga, a monastery, an overly stocked religious souvenir shop, some glorious lakes nearby that I am now kicking myself for not visiting, and a tiny little snack shop up a flight of steps behind the tourist office. It serves the best fried chorizo baguettes that go perfectly with a glass or two of Asturian cider… Do NOT miss that part at least!

Pleasantly stuffed, our next stop was the colourfully named Rincon Del Poo, a stop off point chosen by the Small People in our time honoured family tradition of letting them choose various things to see on a trip. This place was picked out purely thanks to the name. Obviously, if you are ten years old this kind of thing is always hilarious and bound to be picked out first on the map…

Anyway, on this occasion it turned out to be a very happy visit, as this tiny sleepy little place is really picturesque and reminded me so much of our other home, with the cows and their clonking bells in the surrounding pastures, and the backdrop of the Picos De Europa behind… Rincon del Poo also turned out to be a great place to buy a big chunk of the local blue Cabralles from a tiny dairy at the side of the road – a cheese that strangely we were first introduced to in our little local cheese shop in Denmark bizarrely…

Ancient Eco Roof?…

Out to pasture…

And, perhaps saving the best to last, it was time to finally head to the Peaks of Europe themselves…

After gradually making our way up a perilously windy and ever narrowing road, we found somewhere safe to park, and were immediately greeted by some of the many guardians of this stunning place… The majority of which decided to join us for the majority of our time here (thankfully only the goat guardians joined us, there are also wild boar, wolves and a few brown bears are residents apparently too!), making us jealous that we couldn’t just jump up a tree or a sheer rock face when we felt like it to admire the view…

Exploring new mountains…

And, as I am currently really missing having the Bavarian Alps on our doorstep (as are my little ski demons!), this place was a real tonic for the soul, and parts of it definitely reminded me of the various Gorges there, with their ice blue water roaring below…

Although, we only scratched the tip of the iceberg here really, and we’ve already spoken about going back to do a proper hiking trip at some point in the future, staying at the little mountain huts you can book along the way. Asturias, you really do have the lot. We will be back.

A Few Tips:

If you are thinking of exploring properly, do invest in a decent guide book, and/or consider booking a guide to show you the best hiking routes. Do look at booking accommodation (how cute is this place?) beforehand if you are thinking of making it a two-three day trek…

Given the proximity to the sea, the weather in this area can change dramatically so be prepared for all eventualities;

The Picos De Europa is a protected park, so don’t take anything home with you (we did think about taking a tiny little goat home that looked lost and stuck in a tree, he wasn’t lost, and he wasn’t stuck!), and don’t leave anything behind;

The climbing here is obviously world class, but don’t take any huge risks, and again, invest in a decent book/look at booking a professional guide to take you out;

Roads are open all year around to various Picos sites, but bear in mind that national holidays can get very busy!

What a beautiful part of Spain – one that you don’t hear much about. It sounds like a wonderful area to go hiking in. Your photos are beautiful – especially like the goat. And Rincon del Poo surely appeals to everyone? My husband would think that was the funniest place ever…

I havent heard of this part of spain before but it looks beautiful. I love the mountains and its where I feel at home and that range looks amazing. There looks to be a lot to do in the area so hopefully I can get to visit there.

Your photographs make the mountains look equally as brilliant as Bavaria – who would guess these are virtually on our doorstep – if you live near Stansted that is! Lovely post opening our eyes to a part of Spain that is often overlooked. x

Really enjoyed reading about your travels in the Asturias, looks fabulous Emma, and sounds like it was one of those great family holidays that gives you a lovely lift. Think I’m craving a bit of adventure at the moment, preferably with sunshine and tasty food like the delicious looking chorizo baguettes (+ the cider). Roll on Easter … :) x