I'm replacing my center section of my Dana 44. I know I have to unbolt the half shafts and drive shaft. My question is, Do I have to remove the whole assembly ie, bat wings, or can I just remove the center section?

working on and cleaning up the one I just bought, I would say remove it with the batwing as be easier to handle. the heavy part is the center/gear section of course and it is harder to handle move around. if you take it out with the batwing, you should be able to rig up a jack underneath it, or one of the low HF trans jacks and simply lower it out.

plus, it is probably silicon sealed to the batwing, due to the internal support blocks needing to be up against the bearing caps as opposed to having a gasket in between the 2 pieces

Housing can be removed without batwing.
It depends on where you are doing it. If you have a overhead lift removing housing would be easier. In the driveway or on a kwik lift ; housing with batwing is the better route. Either way you need to support engine and transmission. A helper is highly recommended; d44 is heavy and awkward. There is a paper gasket available, if you choose to do housing alone.

Housing can be removed without batwing.
It depends on where you are doing it. If you have a overhead lift removing housing would be easier. In the driveway or on a kwik lift ; housing with batwing is the better route. Either way you need to support engine and transmission. A helper is highly recommended; d44 is heavy and awkward. There is a paper gasket available, if you choose to do housing alone.

Thanks for the replies. I will be doing this on my 2 post lift.
Dumb question but, why would I need to support engine and transmission?

You're using another to replace yours? If yes I'd think it important to confirm the thread condition/quality in the one you intend to use. I'm quite sure you'd find the thread to be M10X1.5 and the original assembly is done using a 'self-threading' fastener. I wouldn't reuse the 'self-threaders'. You can feel the the 'self-threading' feature of the old originals. The holes are also not threaded to the end so I'd suggest you measure and chase the existing ones and buy appropriate new fasteners.

User 'vetteoz' used studs to replace his. When you remove one of your originals I'd be interested in the length of the threads on the 'self-threader'. I have NOS housing and the holes are 27/29mm deep I believe and NOS rear cover I have is 14/16mm thick at the 5 points where the 'self-threaders' are used.

If there's a D44 there 'now' I'd think the 'in car' without removing the rear cover would be preferred.

WVZR-1, over the weekend I will measure the bolts I was shipped with the D44/batwing that I bought and get you a thread length. I assume you are referring to the bolts that go through the batwing to fasten it to the carrier ?

WVZR-1, over the weekend I will measure the bolts I was shipped with the D44/batwing that I bought and get you a thread length. I assume you are referring to the bolts that go through the batwing to fasten it to the carrier ?

i would replace with delrin or del-alum

polyurethane is gonna have some give in it still. You want the c beam and everything tight for handling improvements

polyurethane is gonna have some give in it still. You want the c beam and everything tight for handling improvements

I have not found anyone that makes delrin or del-alum bushings for the batwing. Global West does not, nor can I find anything out on the web. The original bushings had compliance in the black rubber. The poly ones can crack as we all know. There is/was a current thread where one of the members was having issues putting in poly bushings into the front end. Having to force them in is not good, as it starts setting up fracture lines.

Seeing as how I cannot find any to match the Del-alum's from Global West that I have for the front, I will take a little give over what I have learned about poly.

The little deflection in the poly bushings won't be noticed. Poly and solid bushings will increase driveline noise in passenger compartment. Loud exhaust or a good stereo will reduce or eliminate it.

To machine solid bushings is pretty simple. You would want a poly bushing for a pattern. A brake lathe with a chuck a Shop Smith maybe to try to DIY. IDK what machine shop would charge. It should take about 2 hours or less to manually machine them. If you could provide the pattern and the material a tech school could be a low cost resource.

The flex in the chassis wil stilll move the batwing and flex the c beam something to consider

As long as the batwing or the camber adjustment at cover.weren't disturbed probably not. Techinically if only the non adjustable ends were disconnected for knuckle the alignment should not have changed. At the same time,; if it has been a while, it's not a bad idea.

As long as the batwing or the camber adjustment at cover.weren't disturbed probably not. Techinically if only the non adjustable ends were disconnected for knuckle the alignment should not have changed. At the same time,; if it has been a while, it's not a bad idea.

I do not believe the car has had an alignment in 20 years!lol
When I let off the gas, the car wiggles a little bit. Iím wondering if itís a combination of worn out shocks with the need of an alignment.

I do not believe the car has had an alignment in 20 years!lol
When I let off the gas, the car wiggles a little bit. Iím wondering if itís a combination of worn out shocks with the need of an alignment.

Alignment won't cause that. The shocks might. But check your halfshaft u-joints carefully. When one of those goes out it makes the rear alignment change with throttle application, and you tend to get that effect where it pulls a bit one way on the gas and then pulls the other when you left off the gas. Also make sure your trailing arms (dogbones) are in properly, including the frame brackets to which they bolt.