Darren Fawr

Crag features

A long escarpment above the A470 3 miles north of Merthyr. There are some older routes of dubious quality and considerable scope for new routing. Checked in February 2008, the crag suffers from extensive ivy growth at the top of the cliff as well as being loose in places. It is advised that any prospective new routes be thoroughly cleaned before their first attempt!

Note, watch yourself on the top outs as it is a scree bank up there that hurtles debris down on your seconder!

Approach notes

Follow the A470 past the a470/A465 interchange for about 1 1/2 miles. The crag is clearly visible escarpment up on the right. Park appropriately and scramble (it's a long scramble!) up to the base of the crag.

When travelling from Brecon to Merthyr the crag is visible on the left above a large scree. Take a left turn signposted Cefn Coed and park in a pull in on the left, by a gated track. This track leads to an old quarry, walk up this track to the first bend just before the track passes under an old quarry building. Walk up the steep bank straight up the hill to a very small quarried section of rock with a wire fence on its right hand side (when facing up hill). Keep going up the hill taking the easiest path through the quarried rock until reaching the fence line at top of the hill. Once over fence walk left through bracken towards cliffs on sky line ( below fence line). Walk along top of hillside passing a large fenced off gully until a tree is visible on the cliff top. Just before tree there is a double stainless steel staple lower of on cliff edge. A 30 metre (60 metre rope) abseil leads to the base. Pull rope. This section of cliff has a hidden quarry below ,near the bottom of the scree , which should theoretically catch any rocks knocked down from above. But be Very, Very careful as a road runs under the crag.

Access Advice

Follow the A470 past the a470/A465 interchange for about 1 1/2 miles. The crag is clearly visible escarpment up on the right. Park appropriately and scramble (it's a long scramble!) up to the base of the crag.