Hi Bigbob! Maybe not the right thread to ask this but I don't want to lose the moment since we are there. At what point do the elevated zinc levels start to plug the catalytic converters? I run Amsoil Z-Rod in all my Chevys but with no converters.

Hi Bigbob! Maybe not the right thread to ask this but I don't want to lose the moment since we are there. At what point do the elevated zinc levels start to plug the catalytic converters? I run Amsoil Z-Rod in all my Chevys but with no converters.

Bad rings/mechanical failure mostly. The 2 systems are separate from each other. Oil usage would be a good sign of that.

I turned the engine, with a wrench, and lined the holes like you guys have said. I then placed an allen wrench into the holes and removed the camshaft synchronizer.

I place the new one in the same position the old one was in, and aligned the oil pump shaft. It all fell into place like it should. I bolted the clamp back on and put everything back together.

When I went to start the Jeep it would not start. Any idea why? Remember it just shut down when I was driving at 50MPH. It was making the Laughing Monkey sound before, and that is why I replaced the synchronizer. Could it be out of time? If it is, how did it just get out of time when I was driving the jeep?

I should take a picture of the synchronizer. There is some burn marks on it but, the gears all look ok to me.

Hi Bigbob! Maybe not the right thread to ask this but I don't want to lose the moment since we are there. At what point do the elevated zinc levels start to plug the catalytic converters? I run Amsoil Z-Rod in all my Chevys but with no converters.

On the rubicon forum they ran this subject to the point of insanity. it was determined the best oil is a oil you can get that meets the proper weight and the ACEA A1-A3 or what ever it is that you can actually go to a store and buy. M1 High Mileage meets that criteria.

And if you got a "stock" type OPDA you got screwed. You can get a Dorman with the proper bushings delivered for about $85

I haven't been following the topic as regularly since I had WillyDigger add the oil cup to my OPDA. Has the Dorman been determined to be a permanent fix? I thought I'd read some issues with the Dormans sensor being bad and people using the stock sensor on the Dorman OPDA. If my modded Chrysler OPDA is doing okay should I even consider switching to the Dorman? I have 19,000 miles on the modded OPDA now.

I haven't been following the topic as regularly since I had WillyDigger add the oil cup to my OPDA. Has the Dorman been determined to be a permanent fix? I thought I'd read some issues with the Dormans sensor being bad and people using the stock sensor on the Dorman OPDA. If my modded Chrysler OPDA is doing okay should I even consider switching to the Dorman? I have 19,000 miles on the modded OPDA now.

Use what you have if it's working, but for $85 it may be good insurance to go to Rockauto and get one before they are no longer available. The steel bushing stock unit is junk. The bronze bushing Dorman has to be better. I am testing one now to see how much oil gets to the top bushing. I used the old CPS as I have also heard of failures with the dorman unit. When I said he was screwed I meant he paid too much.

OK, I have got the Jeep running. Let me tell you what has happen and, ask questions that maybe you guys can answer.

1. The Jeep is making the Laughing Monkey sounds.

2. Driving down the road at about 50 to 55 mph and the Jeep shuts down after a little spitting and sputtering.

3. I order and replace, the OPDA exactly the way it is said to do in the thread and on the videos.

4. Jeep will not start after the OPDA is replaced. The only way I could get it to run, at this point, is to spray starting fluid in the throttle body. It started and ran very very fast and then, bang, Backfired out of the throttle body. At this point, we all thought it was out of time but, I replaced the OPDA the way I was told to. Even after I wrenched the engine to aline the holes in the OPDA before removal.

5. I take the Jeep to a mechanic and, after he gets it to run, he calls me to tell me the Jeep is running. I asked what he did to it. He says it was out of time.

How did my Jeep get out of time if all I was doing was driving down the road at 50 or 55 mph? I pulled the OPDA out and replaced it with a new one in the exact same position. What happen???

OK, I have got the Jeep running. Let me tell you what has happen and, ask questions that maybe you guys can answer.

1. The Jeep is making the Laughing Monkey sounds.

2. Driving down the road at about 50 to 55 mph and the Jeep shuts down after a little spitting and sputtering.

3. I order and replace, the OPDA exactly the way it is said to do in the thread and on the videos.

4. Jeep will not start after the OPDA is replaced. The only way I could get it to run, at this point, is to spray starting fluid in the throttle body. It started and ran very very fast and then, bang, Backfired out of the throttle body. At this point, we all thought it was out of time but, I replaced the OPDA the way I was told to. Even after I wrenched the engine to aline the holes in the OPDA before removal.

5. I take the Jeep to a mechanic and, after he gets it to run, he calls me to tell me the Jeep is running. I asked what he did to it. He says it was out of time.

How did my Jeep get out of time if all I was doing was driving down the road at 50 or 55 mph? I pulled the OPDA out and replaced it with a new one in the exact same position. What happen???

How bad did the gear look?

There is a slight possibility the target wheel slipped. On one of the units I rebuilt I discovered the target wheel could actually be moved by had. It was hard to move, but I could rotate it. The target wheel is just pressed on.

Glad to hear you got it figured out. BTW, if you would of set the crank to TDC you could of timed it.

And as far as the OPDA causing misfires that just sounds weird. The firing order ETC is controlled by the computer. The CPS/OPDA just sends a signal to the computer at start up to say everything is lined up. Once the engine is running I think you can disconnect the CPS and it will stay running. But I guess if the CPS is off it throws the computer off. You should have thrown a code.