Do i HAVE to drain my differential before taking out the drivetrain rod that connects to the U joint in order to change it? (I dont exactly know what it's called but its the universal joints that connects to the left and right wheel bearings)

No the inner tube seals keep the fluid inside the housing. And go with a spicer brand sold at Napa or online which is what came in your jeep from factory. As far as greaseable or non greaseable thats your call. I run greaseable because i wheel in a lot of mud and dirt.

You'd be better off changing the fluid when you do it. I did mine without and because the diffs had fluid up to/past the seals, when the axles were pulled it poured over and its been leaking out the tubes for months now!

Just be careful removing and inserting the shafts as to not damage the seals. If your differential is filled to the proper amount, very little to no oil should spill out of the tubes. Go with non greaseable because they are stronger.

Just be careful removing and inserting the shafts as to not damage the seals. If your differential is filled to the proper amount, very little to no oil should spill out of the tubes. Go with non greaseable because they are stronger.

X2, especially on the sealed non-greasable u-joint recommendation which is significantly stronger than a greasable u-joint is. Go with the Spicer 5-760x u-joint which is a stronger and more durable upgrade. Don't use a cheap store brand u-joint.

If you have any drivetrain shops in area they usually carry Spicers. If you need one in a pinch the Napa Precision joints are good too. I don't see too many auto store actually carry Spicer but you can try.

If your replacing one U-Joint, might as well replace the other side, so you know that's there two good joints up there. Especially if you don't know how long the joints have been in or mileage on them.

X2, especially on the sealed non-greasable u-joint recommendation which is significantly stronger than a greasable u-joint is. Go with the Spicer 5-760x u-joint which is a stronger and more durable upgrade. Don't use a cheap store brand u-joint.

No Needs to drain the diff, just remove the caliper and rotors, then unbolt the three 1/2 inch 12 pt nuts and pull the shaft out. I replaced mine with greaseable just because I was in a rush to fix it and it was available. Spicer is the way to go though. Good luck

i did mine the other day. used non greaseable spicers because it is my dd and i don't wheel nearly as much as id like. pblaster on those three 12 point 1/2 inch nuts holding wheel bearing on. May need new cotter pins too if those are old.

Question: did mine tuesday- noticed today that some front diff fluid was leaking out of pass side at yoke. First time noticed on driveway, and not a ton (after three mile drive). Unplugged diff and seems still full. could it be from getting some in the tube while pulling? not making any noises and full diff, so not broken seals right?

When I changed out my front axle u joint's I used the Spicer 5-760x u joint in the right front axle but one would not install in the left side as the trunnion or spider of the u joint would not fit into the yoke in order to press in the caps. I had to grab a joint off the shelf at O'Reillys I seem to remember it was a 371 joint, which what was installed in the Jeep when I took it apart. Must be the Yoke on the left side axle shaft that fits the unit bearing is bent.