Remove the handlebar weight. (If you have hand protectors, then remove them also)

Open the multifunction switch cover by removing the 2 small screws on the back.

Disconnect both plugs from inside the multifunction switch and then move them out of the way so you are then able to remove the 2 small screws that attaches the plastic attachment of the grip to the inside of the multifunction switch.

Remove the multifunction switch.

Remove the screw/s that attaches the grip to the handlebar, and then just slide the grip off.

You now need to get to the root of the problem inside the grip. Normally it is one of the 2 wires that break off where they are attached to the element inside the sealed grip.

Before going any further, I would suggest testing the wiring in the grip with a multimeter to see if electricity can flow from one pin, through the element inside, and out the other pin. If not, then proceed as follows.

Use a sharp carpet razor blade to VERY carefully & slowly separate the rubber from the plastic all the way around the grip. The rubber is only molded onto the plastic for a short distance (only along the edge), so be slow and carefully cut a small bit at a time while you try to roll the rubber back onto itself to expose the element.

NOTE - Some guys blow high pressure compressed air inbetween the rubber and plastic to blow the whole thing up like a balloon and thus force the rubber off the plastic, but this will basically stretch and ruin the whole rubber part of the grip. You DON'T have to do it this way, just carefully cut it open a little bit, and then you can simply roll it back to expose the element.

Your problem is very likely now exposed, and is probably the wire soldering that broke where it attaches to the element. You can see in my photo below that my black/yellow wire has come loose.

Simply solder the wire carefully back onto the element where it broke off, and you're all set!

Roll the rubber back, and re-install everything, making sure that the markings on the handlebars, the clamps, the plastic guides etc. all line up nicely before tightening everything again. Don't over-torque!

You've just saved yourself a couple hundred bucks.

(Note - For the RIGHT grip, you will also have to remove the throttle cable & cover)

Thanks for the information and write up. I havenít had a problem with my grips but you never know. :wink:

leadingedge

03-07-2012 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudcat
(Post 18158353)

Thanks for the information and write up. I havenít had a problem with my grips but you never know. :wink:

No probs, hopefully you never have problems with it.

It seems that a lot of guys have them fail on them, and always end up being told that you have to replace the grip because it is a sealed unit...

Actually a pretty easy fix, but don't tell BMW! :evil

EJ_92606

03-07-2012 01:41 PM

Excellent DIY, thanks for posting!

L.B.S.

03-08-2012 01:22 AM

Awesome!

Thank you very much for your DIY post, very helpful and appreciated! :clap :D

mcmarcia

03-08-2012 02:58 AM

good fix for a common problem

awesome, I vote this goes to the hall of wisdom. :deal These grips eventually all break and it looks so easy to fix. I bet a small exacto knife might work good cutting around the grip end? :clap

John Smallberries

03-08-2012 03:17 AM

thanks! The RH grip on my '05 stopped heating a few weeks back. I think I will be following your tracks very soon.

I am worried that I F'd something up when I dug into the RH harness to tap into the turn-signal-cancel wire for my Autoswitch. The heated grip worked for months after my surgery, so I thought I was ok.

leadingedge

03-08-2012 03:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcmarcia
(Post 18164835)

I bet a small exacto knife might work good cutting around the grip end?

I'm guessing it will do the trick just fine, as long as you do it slowly & carefully.

leadingedge

03-08-2012 03:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Smallberries
(Post 18164879)

thanks! The RH grip on my '05 stopped heating a few weeks back. I think I will be following your tracks very soon.

I am worried that I F'd something up when I dug into the RH harness to tap into the turn-signal-cancel wire for my Autoswitch. The heated grip worked for months after my surgery, so I thought I was ok.

I'm sure it is nothing that you did wrong, just a bad design and flimsy heating element solder join that BMW punched out.

Keep us posted with pics of your own, and your result when you're done!

Max Wedge

03-29-2012 08:17 PM

My left grip died this morning. Still under warantee, but if it wasn't, or when it isn't I'll be doing this. Thanks for posting it.

leadingedge

03-29-2012 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Wedge
(Post 18336690)

My left grip died this morning. Still under warantee, but if it wasn't, or when it isn't I'll be doing this. Thanks for posting it.

No Problem!

See if they let you keep the old one, and fix it up for a spare in the future.

vhugoabreu

02-08-2013 07:09 AM

Heated grip

Hi, I have a 2008 gsa 1200 and I did is as you commended. It was the left grip and one of the wires was not proper soldered. Now everything is ok.

Thx for the tips :D

motorcy

02-08-2013 11:36 PM

same for 1150...2002?

hey, do you know if it's the same for a 2002 1150 ?

rdcyclist

02-09-2013 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Smallberries
(Post 18164879)

thanks! The RH grip on my '05 stopped heating a few weeks back...

I believe the older R12GS's used nichrome wire for the heating element under the grip and it's not easily soldered. I don't know when they went to the flexible printed circuit elements but the 05 grips I disassembled had wire.

leadingedge

02-09-2013 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by motorcy
(Post 20683923)

hey, do you know if it's the same for a 2002 1150 ?

As far as I am aware, the boxer grips were only changed in 2005 to the current type of grip, so your 2002 will have the old ones.