Dyno Tuning Information

The following are certain procedures and guidelines for knowing what to expect when having your vehicle dyno tuned. It is critical to know the following so you are prepared for your appointment.

Getting ready for your dyno appointment is extremely important for you, your vehicle and us. By bringing us a vehicle we have never worked on or built in-house we have implemented a mandatory pre-inspection to the dyno tune. This is super critical for vehicles that are forced inducted as leaks in any area will alter the tune and cause headaches for the tuner. Newer naturally aspirated vehicles can typically forgo the inspection but ANY vehicle forced inducted will require a pre-inspection. We assume you are bringing us a sound and healthy engine with the appropriate QUALITY parts (fuel pump(s), wiring, spark plugs, fuel injectors, etc…). If you have any questions as to your specific setup please call us in advance. If the vehicle has any known issues please be courteous enough to tell us so we can advise you properly and not waste your time or ours. You accept responsibility if you need to come back for another appointment because you have failed to bring in a “proper” vehicle. Pre-inspection cost is $125 and includes a general look over and smoke test.

If your vehicle requires any addressing, you will be charged accordingly for labor costs and parts. If the issues are serious enough that they cannot be addressed in a timely fashion, be prepared to come back as mentioned above. If any issues arise while on the dyno and the tune cannot be completed, you are responsible for any completion costs of the tune.

For standalone tuning we typically require you to leave us the vehicle to ensure cold and hot temperature tuning is performed. Make plans accordingly.

Below are some things to check if you are capable of doing:

Ensure the vehicle has the same type of fuel you will be running, and that the vehicle has at least a half-tank. Any additional fuels be sure you bring with you or contact us in advance as we maybe able to supply you.

Ensure all fluids are at the correct level (engine oil, coolant, gear lubricants)

Ensure there are NO fluid leaks of any kind. This includes exhaust leaks!!!!

Ensure the coolant is entirely bled and cooling fan(s) are working.

Ensure the drivetrain is in good condition, including wheel bearings, suspension and related components.

If any sensors are faulty or not working, repair or replace them prior to your appointment.

Ensure you have the correct spark plugs and appropriate heat range.

Perform a boost leak test and fix all leaks prior to your appointment. Boost control tuning and fuel tuning will NOTbe accurate if performed with a boost leak. No one thinks they have a boost leak, 80+% typically do!!

Ensure fuel pressure is set, locked and recorded. Fuel pressure should be referenced with the engine off, fuel pump running continuously, and again at idle. If you have a fixed regulator please ensure it is not original from the 1990s

All vacuum and boost hoses must be ziptied or secured at their ends. Any hoses that are suspect to chafing or wear should be re-routed or replaced prior to the appointment

Ensure boost control and wastegate are correctly plumbed.

Ensure turbo and exhaust components are tight and properly fastened. Exhaust leaks can alter the tune especially those near the O2 sensors!!!

If the vehicle has been previously tuned by someone else, ensure that you have a copy of the map that is in the ECU and that the computer is not locked. Re-mapping the entire engine from scratch will be more expensive than repairing or editing an existing map (usually). Z32s need not apply. Most of the time we have to start from scratch anyway.

Ensure all wiring is neat, tidy, properly grounded and protected from heat.There is an extremely distinguishable correlation between vehicle reliability and electrical cleanliness. Maybe it’s an insight to the workmanship of the entire vehicle!

Remember, we are here to help. Please ensure the vehicle is 100% complete and ready before your appointment. Bringing a rushed vehicle will be a waste of your time and money, and we can almost guarantee a re-tune will be required. These vehicles also do not help our reputation, as some customers have a funny way of blaming others when things go wrong. Although some shops would gladly take your money twice, We want you (the customer) to be happy. Tuning your car twice won’t make you happy. So for that reason we won’t tune your car unless we are confident it will be problem free.

Current tuning rates:

1990-1996 300ZX(TT) Factory ECU Tuning $550.

Other Nissan tuning prior to 2003 year models is also $550 and you are required to have the appropriate hardware (Nistune board) in your ECU. We can supply\install if necessary in advance.

UpRev tuning for NA vehicles is $600 which includes licensing. Re-tuning an existing license holder is a flat $400.

UpRev tuning for forced induction vehicles is $750 and includes licensing. Re-tuning an existing license holder is $550.

EcuTek tuning for NA vehicles is $800 which includes licensing. Re-tuning an existing license is $450.

EcuTek tuning for forced inducted vehicles (GTR not included) is $1000 which includes licensing. Re-tuning an existing license is $550.

I have a 2010 370z, and am planning on going FI with the Boosted Performance Twin-scroll Turbo, and would like to tune EcuTek with you guys. What are your thoughts on achieving 500whp on a stock block? Ultimately that’s my goal, but would like to hear what you guys think.

Not a problem making 500 whp on a Dyno Jet Dyno. We’ve made close to 700 whp on a Dyno Jet Dyno and a stock block. Ultimately we like to leave them around 600 whp for the street. On 91 octane you’ll make right around 450-480 whp safely.

I have a 2013 370Z with a K&N short cold air intakes and an ARK cat back grip exhaust. Can I get a quote on the cost of a dyno tune. I just started researching and I am extremely interested in dyno tuning my Z to maximize my mods.

Hello guys, I recently got a new motor on my 1993 300zx NA 2+2.I also made it from auto to manual. The engine and tranny I got came from japan. The previous owner had installed a python ECU and im not sure if it had a tune. I personally installed AEM fuel pump, OBX headers and a K&N cold air intake. I am currently experiencing hot start up issues and once in a while, small idle issues. What would you guys recommend. I have not done any tune to the car and there are no check engine lights.

Hi I was interested in tuning my 2008 G37 coupe 6MT; currently running on a straight pipe/muffler delete, Stillen Ultra long tube intakes, PPE long tube headers. I was wondering around how much HP would I be looking at? And should I wait to tune it with a cat-back exhaust system(Meisterschaft)

Hello I was interested in getting a tune for my Nissan 300ZX TT, made some mods to the car. 555 CCC injectors, aluminum drive pulley, single air intake, 2.5 down pipes 2.5 cat test pipes, HKS exhaust, 2.5 intercooler pipes 2.5 charge pipes 2.5 planner pipes, upgraded intercoolers, RPS five segment flywheel, signal driveshaft, Gsp t28 600 Turbos, Z1 EEPROM upgrade, waiting for you guys to come back to Delaware next year so I can get it soon what are my realistic expectations as far as horsepower is concerned I’m not a racer I don’t do off Roeding just a regular guy that wants a nice car with a little speed

Hey, I’m looking to get my 370z tuned. It has an invidia catback, motordyne art pipes, and I’m still not sure what intakes to go with. Any recommendations? Anything else I should get before an NA tune? Also, why is is Ecutek more expensive than Uprev. Which is better to go with? Thanks.