Has spring sprung where you live? It’s still winter in my neck of the woods, and I’m jonsing to get dirt under my fingernails and be back in my garden. Yes, flipping through seed catalogs helps, but nothing is better than actually doing something. So, I’ve been making DIY seed pots and upcycling found objects to make cheap (or, better yet, free) containers for my seedings to grow in.

I have two categories for my seed pots this year: upcycled from repurposed objects I have laying around and those that I make from recycled objects.

10 Upcycled/Repurposed Seed Pots:

1. Chipped China or ceramic cups and mugs. Have a favorite mug that is no longer useful for your morning coffee? That crack may actually be beneficial drainage for a seedling.

7. Stained or dented cake pan. A bundt pan that is dented in all the wrong places can find new life.

8. Muffin tins. Stained and dented? No worries!

9. Kiddie wading pool. Yes, it’s large, but if you have the space this can be a transitional garden. It’s especially useful for an early spring outdoor garden that may need to be covered due to the threat of frost.

10. Old wooden drawers. No, they’ll never hold your fine linens after being filled with potting soil, but they can serve a new purpose.

15 recycled seed pots:

1. TP or paper towel roll. Check out this tutorial to learn how to turn paper tubes into seed pots.

12. Hollowed out citrus peel. If you can use an avocado peel, you can use citrus peels.

13. K cups. Have eco-guilt from these environmentally unfriendly cups? Peel off the top, cut out the inside filter and plant.

14. Plastic drink bottles. You forgot your canteen for the picnic and had to buy a plastic water bottle. Don’t toss it in the recycling–reuse it as a seed pot.

15. Flat bottom ice cream cone. True confession: I have never tried this due to the fact that I don’t eat a lot of ice cream cones. Never the less, I’m intrigued by the idea of a garden beginning in ice cream cones.

For all of these options make sure that you drill drainage holes.

Notice anything missing? Those plastic seedling trays that the seedlings you buy at the nursery are planted in? Don’t reuse them. Often these can carry diseases such as tomato blight so don’t reuse them for seedling pots.

]]>Growing Blueberries: Don’t Be Blue, Learn How to Grow Your Ownhttp://www.organicauthority.com/growing-blueberries
Sat, 04 Jun 2016 08:00:10 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/?p=47232Blueberries are, you know, blue, and that fact sets them apart because there aren’t many blue fruits or veggies out there. Yes, there’s blue corn and blue potatoes. But ask a kindergartner to color an ear of corn or a potato and chances are they won’t reach for a blue crayon. And the best part: […]

Blueberries are, you know, blue, and that fact sets them apart because there aren’t many blue fruits or veggies out there. Yes, there’s blue corn and blue potatoes. But ask a kindergartner to color an ear of corn or a potato and chances are they won’t reach for a blue crayon. And the best part: you can have Mother Nature’s blue treat as close as your backyard. Growing blueberries is easy no matter the size of your garden.

Why grow your own?

You go to the grocery store. You see the beautiful blueberries in the clear plastic container. So, why not just buy those berries? Because even if you only have a small urban patio you have enough room to grow blueberries. Also, blueberries appear pretty high up on the Environmental Working Group’s list of produce most heavily treated with pesticides. Yuck. Not to mention those little plastic tubs can be pretty darn pricey.

Plus, imagine the satisfaction you’ll feel when you proudly drop a handful of your homegrown blueberries into pancakes at your next brunch.

Growing Blueberries in Containers in 5 Simple Steps

I have a large garden, but when it comes to blueberries I don’t use it. You see, a blueberry bush growing in my backyard is like a giant flashing golden arches sign for every woodland critter in my neighborhood. Even though I grew blueberries for years, I never ate a single one of those berries until I grew them in containers because rabbits, birds, and deer always found them first.

You’ll need a large (5 gallon) pot. The larger the pot, the bigger the bush’s root system will be and therefore you’ll have more berries. A clay pot works well because it breathes. Choose a pot that is any color other than black because a black pot will attract and trap heat.

Select a blueberry bush from your local nursery. You have a lot of choice when it comes to the variety of blueberry you choose. Choose a variety that is native to your area.

If your blueberry bush container will be on a patio then consider choosing a couple southern highbush varieties because this will encourage bees to cross pollinate for better flavor and higher yield harvests. Most blueberry varieties are self-pollinating so this isn’t a concern for other growing locations.

You can grow blueberries in either amended soil or a soil-less mixture. If you grow in soil, combine half peat moss and half high quality soil that contains compost. If you don’t have peat moss on hand then amend the soil-compost mix with sulfur. Blueberries need soil with a pH of 4.0-5.5.

Place a couple handfuls of golf ball to plum sized stones at the bottom of your pot to aid drainage and prevent root rot.

Fill the pot with your growing medium but leave room for the blueberry bush.

3. Place blueberry bush in pot

Remove the blueberry bush from its plastic nursery pot and pinch the soil at the bottom of the plant to loosen its roots.

Place the bush so that its crown (where the plant stem meets the roots) is not buried. Aim to have the crown a few centimeters above the soil line. Once you water, it will be flush with the soil line. If you bury the crown it will bring up too much water to the branches which prefer to be dry.

4. Continue care and pruning

Water the blueberry bush but avoid over watering because this will cause fungus and root rot. Stick your finger one inch deep in the soil. If it feels dry then it’s time to water.

Feed the blueberry bush with sulfur and compost four weeks after planting. Three weeks later feed with a quick release sulfur such as Miracid.

Once your blueberry bush is established, trim low, dried twigs but leave new growth. Pinch off the first year’s blossoms to encourage the plant’s energy to go into growing a larger, healthier plant for future harvests.

5. Prepare for winter

In the fall, dig a large hole in the ground and bury the whole blueberry container. The top of the pot should be level with the ground. This will insulate the roots through the cold winter.

If you are an apartment dweller who doesn’t have a patch of ground to bury the container in, then you’ll need a tomato cage, leaves and burlap to wrap the blueberry bush and insulate it through the winter. Learn more about how to do this here.

Planting blueberries in your garden

If you choose to plant blueberries directly in your garden then choose a location then gets 6-8 hours of sun each day. Amend your garden’s soil with the same amendments discussed in step 1 above.

How to grow blueberries? Drop some acid.

As you can see from this map, the US is a great producer of blueberries. Why? In my home state of Maine (where we proudly produce over 80 million pounds of wild blueberries each year) it’s because of our acidic soil.

So, if you want to have a successful blueberry harvest it’s worth investing in a soil test to ensure that the ph level is acidic enough.

Go away! Preventing large pests

Remember those woodland critters mentioned earlier? I chose to deal with these pests by growing blueberries in containers (no guns needed). If you want to grow blueberries in a garden that is frequented by critters, then you’ll need a few more tools.

Consider these options:

Cage your blueberry bushes by placing four vertical posts (i.e. wood or metal stakes) around the bush and then wrapping with a mesh cloth.

Build a fence that is at least 8 feet high. It needs to be this tall because a determined deer can jump 12 feet high.

Employ a natural repellent such as soap, human hair, or cat hair. You can also buy a natural repellent that contains eggs and garlic.

]]>A Gardener’s Secrets for Growing Basil Perfectly Every Timehttp://www.organicauthority.com/Gardener%27s-Secrets-for-Growing-Basil+
Sun, 24 Apr 2016 15:11:30 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/?p=44802 Name a food that’s good on pizza, pasta, panini, and toast points. If you guessed basil, then you’re correct. (Bonus points if you also guessed garlic.) As a fan of this wonderfully versatile herb, you know that having a homegrown supply of fresh basil is invaluable. Read on to learn tips for growing basil. More […]

Name a food that’s good on pizza, pasta, panini, and toast points. If you guessed basil, then you’re correct. (Bonus points if you also guessed garlic.) As a fan of this wonderfully versatile herb, you know that having a homegrown supply of fresh basil is invaluable. Read on to learn tips for growing basil.

More than 31 flavors of basil

Basil has more than 160 different cultivars (types). It seems that every time I flip through my favorite seed catalogs I discover a new basil variety that I’m dying to try.

Popular varieties have reached that designation because they are easy to grow and packed with sweet flavor. Tried and true varieties include sweet basil, lemon basil, dark opal basil, and Christmas basil.

Start seedlings inside or outside?

Your local nursery will likely have a selection of basil seedlings, but buying only from the nursery limits your options. Starting your own basil plants from seed gives you greater variety and complete control over growing practices.

If you live in a chillier climate, then you should start seedlings indoors because of the short outdoor growing season. Six to eight weeks before the last frost start seeds indoors. (If you’re not sure when your last frost date is, check out this site.) Basil likes heat so choose an especially sunny windowsill for growing basil.

If you don’t have a windowsill that gets at least six hours of sun per day, then use a UV grow lamp or heated pad for starting seedlings.

Gardeners in warmer climates can plant basil seeds directly outdoors. Sow basil seed thinly (8-10 seeds per inch) in a well-prepared garden bed. Basil does well in a raised bed because the soil heats up more quickly than the ground and because it has better drainage. Plants should emerge in 8-14 days.

Growing from basil cuttings

If you have a healthy basil plant, then you can use cuttings from that plant to start a new plant. How? Here are 3 easy steps:

Clip a stem off of the basil plant that is at least four inches long.

Place that cutting in water (cut end down). Change the water every few days.

In a few days you will see roots emerge from the cut end. Once these roots are 2-3 inches long plant the cutting in soil.

How to grow basil from seedlings in 3 easy steps

Now that you have basil seedlings (or you’re direct seeding in your garden) it’s time to plant! (I love this part–it’s when I get dirty!)

Plant basil in compost-rich well-drained soil. Not sure that your soil is well-drained enough? Here’s a way to test your soil from the knowledgeable folks at Cornell:

To test drainage, dig a hole about 1 foot deep. Fill with water and allow it to drain completely. Immediately refill the pit and measure the depth of the water with a ruler. 15 minutes later, measure the drop in water in inches, and multiply by 4 to calculate how much water drains in an hour.

Less than 1 inch per hour is poor drainage, indicating the site may stay wet for periods during the year. Plants that don’t tolerate poor drainage will suffer. One to 6 inches of drainage per hour is desirable.

Plant the seedling just deep enough to cover the roots. Each plant should be 10-12 inches apart.

Mulch around the plant. Place a 2 to 4 inch layer of some kind of organic mulch such as chopped leaves, straw, or hay under the plants when they get to be about 6 inches tall. As the mulch settles down in mid summer, you might want to add a bit more to get the plants through the fall season.

Basil plant care

Like all plants, basil appreciates the nutrients found in organic compost. However, there’s no need to go crazy with the fertilizer. Because basil is harvested continually for lots of leaves, it needs a little fertilizer.

When to pinch flowers: Leaf production slows or stops on any stem which flowers, so you should pinch off any flower stems to keep the plant in production.

Basil can be susceptible to whitefly, thrips, aphids, and Fusarium wilt.

Whitefly can usually be dealt with by blasting the nasty buggers with a garden hose. Some folks even use a vacuum to suck them off. Thrips can be controlled by using blue sticky traps. If that doesn’t work, then a natural insecticidal soap may do the trick.

Try attacking aphids with a solution of one quart of water, 1 tsp of liquid dish soap and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Do not dilute before spraying on plants.

Leaves affected by Fusarium wilt should be removed. If the wilt persists, use the organic fungicide Mycostop.

Secrets for planting basil

Basil benefits from companion planting.

Planted near tomatoes, peppers, oregano, asparagus, and petunias. Basil can help these plants repel or distract asparagus beetles, mosquitoes, thrips, and flies, and is said to make tomatoes taste better.

Planting chamomile or anise near basil is said to increase the essential oils in basil.

Growing basil indoors

If I want fresh basil through the winter, then I have to grow it indoors. Even when the temperatures are warmer and I can grow it outside, I often have some indoors as well. Why? It’s just easier to pinch a few leaves off a plant that’s a few feet from my kitchen counter than schlepping outside (yes, I’m that lazy sometimes).

Thankfully, growing in basil in pots is a great option for the lazy or apartment dwellers with limited outdoor space.

Harvest time!

Harvest basil leaves by pinching them from the stems any time after the young plants have reached a height of 6 to 8 inches. Pinch the leaves from the tips of the stems to encourage the plant to branch and make more leaves.

So. Much. Basil.

Congratulations! You successfully grew beautiful basil! And then there was more. And more. And even more. What to do with your great bounty?

Once you’ve shared with your friends, family, doggie daycare staff, random tween on a skateboard, and the bearded guy in line at the post office, consider dehydrating your leaves.

This can be done by purchasing a dehydrator (try it, you’ll like it) or using your oven. Simply set your oven to its lowest temperature, rinse any dirt off basil, remove basil leaves from the stem, lay the leaves in a single layer on a baking sheet, and put in oven until crispy (approx. 2-4 hours). Once dry store in an airtight container.

Alternatively, clean the basil leaves, chop, and freeze with a bit of water in ice cube trays.

If you just need to keep fresh basil hanging around for a few days, treat it like a cut flower; leave it in a glass of water in a cool spot in your kitchen and use it as you need it. Never store basil in the refrigerator because it wilts.

Organic?

As you probably know, some produce is more heavily treated with pesticides. Because of those nasty pests mentioned above, it is important to buy organic basil whenever possible. The same is true for home gardeners. Aim to employ the most natural growing practices when growing basil.

Making basil pesto for the family

Most recipes for basil pesto call for two cups of packed leaves. So, how much basil do you need to grow to make a batch of pesto to feed a family of four?

Generally speaking, a healthy basil plant that’s more than a foot tall (and wide) should give you the required amount. If pesto is a family meal staple, then you’ll want to grow multiple plants to keep up with your family’s demand.

My friend is south Florida has so much basil from a few outdoor plants that she can’t give it all away. In chillier New England I can’t keep up with my family’s pesto demands from only homegrown basil; I have to supplement with store-bought pesto.

Beautiful Basil Recipes

The best way to celebrate basil is to show it off in sumptuous recipes. Check out these for inspiration:

]]>Learn How to Grow Strawberries (It’s Easier than You Think)http://www.organicauthority.com/growing-strawberries
Sun, 27 Mar 2016 07:00:20 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/?p=43161Is there a food that epitomizes summer for you? For me, fresh picked strawberries are the exclamation point that declares, “Summer’s here!” I love how they practically melt on my tongue when they’re ripe and still warm from the field. Read on to learn how to grow strawberries. How to grow strawberries from seed When […]

Is there a food that epitomizes summer for you? For me, fresh picked strawberries are the exclamation point that declares, “Summer’s here!” I love how they practically melt on my tongue when they’re ripe and still warm from the field. Read on to learn how to grow strawberries.

How to grow strawberries from seed

When it comes to growing your own strawberries you have three choices: start from seed, buy plugs, or buy bare root plants. Here are the pros and cons of each option.

Perhaps the greatest benefit of growing from seed is the sense of accomplishment you’ll feel if successful. But that success is hard-earned as growing from seed can be tricky.

The greatest sacrifice you’ll make growing strawberries from seed is that you won’t have a harvest the first year. You’ll sacrifice this harvest in order to maintain the health of the plant and thereby ensure more productive harvests in years to come. Growing strawberries from seed requires a lot of patience as they can take a month to germinate and send up their first leaves.

Start strawberry seedlings indoors in early spring. Try Elvira variety for an earlier season harvest and Florence variety for a later season harvest. And here’s a nifty trick I learned from container-gardening-for-food.com: Put the seeds in the freezer for 1-2 weeks prior to sowing to help them germinate. Strawberries appreciate a slightly acidic soil so consider amending your soil-compost mix with ericaceous soil.

Once you see a third leaf on the seedling, then consider transplanting it outside. Strawberry plants can tolerate chillier temps, so plant outside once the ground can be worked in spring.

If seeds aren’t for you

If you’ve determined that starting strawberries from seed is not for you, then you have other, somewhat easier, options.

A plug is what most gardeners think of when they think of a seedling. It is a single plant that has been grown in a growing tray. When the seedling is taken out of the tray it is a plug that you can directly plant in the ground.

Another option is bare root plant. According to Pistels Nursery, “Bare root is an agricultural technique in which plants are removed from the soil while dormant. This allows them to readily adapt to new soil conditions. Although they require a season to get fully established, planting strawberries from bare root stock is not only extremely simple, it’s also very affordable (approx. $1 each).”

There are lots of choices

You have a lot of great choices when it comes to varieties of strawberries. All varieties fall into three categories: June-bearing, ever-bearing, and day-neutral. By far the most popular are June-bearing varieties.

Strawberryplants.org has an exhaustive list of varieties and great information about choosing the right variety for your growing conditions.

Let’s get growing!

In areas that experience winter, strawberry plugs or bare root stock can be transplanted outside once the ground has thawed. In warmer climates where strawberries can be outside all year, plant them in the fall.

Choose their growing location carefully. Strawberries require at least eight hours of sunlight each day, and they should be placed 18 inches apart. They will appreciate the well-drained soil that a raised bed offers. Also, don’t plant them in a bed that has grown tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant for the past three years as the bed may be hosting vertericilium wilt.

The growers at Bonnie Plants give this warning about transplanting strawberries, “Be sure to set the plants so that their roots are well covered with soil but the central growing bud, or crown, is exposed to light and fresh air. This is very important: If you bury the crown, the plant could easily rot.”

How to grow strawberries in containers

Strawberries are great candidates for container gardening. One big benefit of growing strawberries in containers is that you can move the container to take advantage of sun.

Containers allow urban dwellers to grow strawberries in small outdoor spaces such as a balcony. Also, strawberry plants can send out runners and then you may have strawberry plants growing where you don’t want them. Containers (obviously) contain those runners.

Another option for growing strawberries in containers is hanging baskets. Not only do they add visual interest to your garden, but the elevation prevents slugs from finding them.

How to Harvest Strawberries

Harvest strawberries when the berries are completely red. When you pluck them from the plant make sure to take their green stem (calyx) as well. Picking them in the morning is generally advised. But, I harvest mine at various times throughout the day.

When troubles strike

You may find slugs on your strawberry plants. If so, get rid of any straw mulch near the plants and consider replacing it with biodegradable plastic mulch.

Birds like strawberries as much as you do. So, to keep them away from your plants, cover plants with lightweight bird netting.

Fungal diseases can be a problem with strawberries. The folks at North Carolina Cooperative Extension Services have some great resources on their web site. Check it out here.

If aphids and mites are a problem, make an all-natural spray by mixing 1/2 teaspoon of dishwashing liquid and 1 teaspoon cooking oil with 1 quart of water. Only use dishwashing liquid that does not contain any bleach, fragrances or degreasers. When applying the spray, ensure the tops and underside of the strawberry leaves are thoroughly coated. (Thanks to SFGate.com for this tip.)

Storage tips:

Congratulations to you if you have a strawberry harvest that is bountiful enough to need to store them! (My strawberries never make it in from the garden before I eat them all.) The berries will fare well in a covered container in the refrigerator for about a day but not much longer. If your harvest is so plentiful that you’ve got more on your hands than you can eat in a day or two, consider canning, freezing or dehydrating them. Or give them to a lucky neighbor.

Why growing organic is (very!) important

Growing strawberries is a labor of love. They require patience, diligence, and more than a little luck. But once you sink your teeth into those juicy sun-kissed berries I think you’ll agree they’re worth the effort.

As you probably know, conventionally grown strawberries are on the Dirty Dozen list of fruits and veggies that contain the most pesticides. So there’s another reason why growing your own organic strawberries is important.

Have you grown strawberries? Share your tips and tricks on our Facebook page or Tweet at us @organicauthority.

]]>Gardening for Beginners: 10 Questions Every Beginner Hashttp://www.organicauthority.com/gardening-for-beginners-10-questions-every-beginner-has/
Tue, 08 Mar 2016 09:00:52 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/?p=42351This is it! This is the year that you start gardening! Maybe you’ve been dreaming about it for years, or maybe the inspiration just came to you this morning. Either way, you’re ready to garden, but you have some questions. Gardening for beginners doesn’t have to be overwhelming. Here are ten questions that every beginner […]

This is it! This is the year that you start gardening! Maybe you’ve been dreaming about it for years, or maybe the inspiration just came to you this morning. Either way, you’re ready to garden, but you have some questions. Gardening for beginners doesn’t have to be overwhelming. Here are ten questions that every beginner gardener has (and, of course, the answers):

1. What supplies do I need?

The minimum requirements for gardening for beginners are a place to garden (either a patch of land or a container), compost, seeds or seedlings, a watering can, and a small spade.

If you choose to garden in a container, then you’ll need potting soil to fill it. Whether gardening in the ground or in a container, you’ll need compost to provide your plants with vital nutrition. You can buy compost at the garden center or make your own.

2. What should I grow?

Salad greens are a great choice because they grow reliably and early. If you live in an area of the country that experiences winter, you can plant them as soon as the soil thaws in early spring.

Peas are another easy spring plant. The seeds can go directly in the ground (no need to start indoors) at the same time you plant the salad greens.

Later in the season, zucchini and other summer squash, green beans, and cucumbers are easy to grow and care for.

Tomatoes are always tempting to any gardener, but they can be a bit fussy. Even experienced gardeners sometimes struggle with tomatoes. If you want to give them a try as a beginner gardener, start small with just a few plants and buy seedlings at a nursery.

3. When should I start my garden?

Start any time after the ground is thaws. Some plants (i.e. Swiss chard, spinach) like chillier soil, and others (i.e. tomatoes, basil) need warmer temps. Check out this guide to know when to plant what.

4. Um, remind me again, what exactly’s going on here….

A refresher is always useful. So let’s review some basic plant biology.

Plant your seed in the ground and within about a week it will germinate. You will see a seedling sprout above ground, but underground the plant’s root system is as big as what you see above ground. It’s that root system that absorbs nutrition and moisture from the soil (and this is why compost is so important).

As a general rule, your garden needs an inch of water every week of the growing season. How will you know how much water it gets? A simple rain gauge will let you know.

Of course there are some plants–cucumbers, asparagus, celery–that will appreciate a bit more water.

6. What about weeds?

Weeds are bad because they steal valuable nutrients from the plants you’re trying to cultivate. However, very few weeds actually choke and kill the plant. So, that’s how I justify being a very lazy weeder. In truth, I only weed my garden about 3-4 times each growing season.

You will have to weed eventually. Use this guide to know how to identify a weed.

7. Ick! How do I get rid of bugs, slugs, and other creepy crawlies?

Gardening for beginners tip: Don’t panic! Many bugs in your garden are beneficial, so put down that pesticide. When you spot a bug check out this guide to tell whether its a true pest or a harmless interloper. If it is indeed a pest, remove it by hand or use an eco-friendly option for eradication.

8. Does it need more compost?

If you live in an area that has a specific growing season (i.e. spring through fall), then apply compost at the beginning of each growing season and again at the height of the season (i.e. late July-August).

If you live in an area that has a year round growing season, then apply compost each time you start new seeds/seedlings. Add more as the plants start producing veggies.

How much compost should you apply? As much as you have! A few (3-5) inches is a good rule of thumb. Bear this in mind: You run a greater risk of not applying enough compost versus applying too much.

9. When is it time to harvest?

Harvest when you have a mature plant. Your seed pack will tell you the size to expect (i.e. 6-10 inches for a mature zucchini). If it’s later in the season and temperatures are nearing freezing, then you may need to harvest some smaller sized veggies in order to keep them from being damaged by frost.

10. I think I like this, where do I go from here?

Congratulations you’re a gardener! Now aim to expand your growing options. Try some plants that are a bit more challenging or broaden your options by trying heirloom varieties. Gardening for beginners is just that–the beginning!

]]>3 Proven and Easy Straw Bale Gardening Stepshttp://www.organicauthority.com/3-proven-and-easy-straw-bale-gardening-steps/
Fri, 12 Feb 2016 10:00:09 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/?p=41066What do you think of when I say “container garden“? Perhaps a whiskey barrel with tomatoes in it or a decorative planter with marigolds come to mind. Straw bale gardening expands upon container gardening by allowing you to use the container itself as a garden. Mind blown? Read on to learn more. Straw bale gardening […]

What do you think of when I say “container garden“? Perhaps a whiskey barrel with tomatoes in it or a decorative planter with marigolds come to mind. Straw bale gardening expands upon container gardening by allowing you to use the container itself as a garden. Mind blown? Read on to learn more.

Straw bale gardening has many benefits:

It’s inexpensive–You can purchase a straw bale for less than the price of a large bag of potting soil.

It can go anywhere. Place the straw bale garden in a field, on your lawn, on a driveway, or on a deck. Simply place cardboard or a couple sheets of newspaper under it to prevent any weeds or grass from the field or lawn growing up through the bale. A sheet of plastic under the bale will protect your driveway or deck from excess moisture.

It’s high off the ground so that folks who have trouble bending over can easily access the garden.

It’s mobile. Maybe you determine in the middle of the growing season that the straw bale isn’t in a great location. No worries! Simply move it. This is made much easier by having a large piece of plastic under the straw bale so that you can drag it to its new location.

Straw bale gardening is green gardening at its best. The bale will eventually decompose and turn into a valuable addition to your compost.

It doesn’t take up a lot of space. Your straw bale garden can be as large or as small as you wish. Maybe it will only be as big as one bale.

Because the straw bales heat up, they’re a great option for gardeners who live in chillier climates. The bales are warmer than the ground and may allow you to extend your growing season.

You have options

When it comes to straw bale gardening you have three choices. One is to use straw bales to create the exterior of a raised bed. You arrange the straw bales to form the perimeter of the raised bed and fill it in with soil. If you choose this option, then you can start growing in the raised bed immediately.

A second choice is to plant directly into the straw bale. In other words, you don’t need a container because the straw bale is both the container and the growing medium. If you choose this option, you’re going to have to condition the straw bale; this is a process that takes about two weeks. Instructions for this are below.

A third option is a combination of the first two. In other words, create a raised bed using the straw bales and plant directly into those straw bales. It’s sort of like having two gardens in one. One nifty idea is to build the raised bed using straw bales one year, allow the bales to begin to decompose, and plant in them the following year.

Create a straw bale garden in 3 easy steps:

1. Get a straw bale and place it. Make sure that you buy a bale of straw–not hay. The latter has seeds in it and those seeds will turn into pesky weeds. You want the narrow side of the bale facing up. More specifically, you want the narrow side with the cut straw facing up. (The other narrow side will have folded straw.)

2. Allow 10-14 days to condition the straw bale. You can’t directly plant in the bale without conditioning it first because it will be too hot (above 125 degrees) for your plants.

On days 1-3 all you need to do is water the bale so that it’s damp throughout the day.

On days 4-9 add liquid fertilizer when you water the bale.

On days 10-14 water the bale without fertilizer.

You will know that your bale is properly conditioned when its internal temperature matches the ambient outdoor temperature. You can use a thermometer for this or your hand.

3. Plant the bale. Dig a hole in the top of the bale just as you would dig a hole in a garden. Place a seedling in the hole so that the top of the plant’s soil is even with the top of the bale. Fill in the sides of the plant with potting soil or compost.

Some straw bale gardeners suggest planting only plants that won’t be too tall or heavy in the straw bale garden. They worry that the bale will tip over or fall apart. If you decide to plant a tall plant such as tomatoes in the straw bale, consider placing the bale near a fence for support.

Routinely water and fertilize the straw bale throughout the growing season.

]]>5 Fall Container Gardening Ideas That Celebrate Autumnhttp://www.organicauthority.com/5-fall-container-gardening-ideas-that-celebrate-autumn/
Thu, 01 Oct 2015 09:00:51 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/?p=38333What images come to mind when you think of fall? The brilliant color of changing leaves? Pumpkins and gourds? A bit of Halloween whimsy? Fall container gardening allows you to show off the best of the season with color and texture. Learn how you can create a fall container gardens that will make your home shine. […]

What images come to mind when you think of fall? The brilliant color of changing leaves? Pumpkins and gourds? A bit of Halloween whimsy? Fall container gardening allows you to show off the best of the season with color and texture. Learn how you can create a fall container gardens that will make your home shine.

1. Choose your container

A great advantage of container gardening is that they are often smaller than summer gardens so they require less effort. When choosing your container you are only limited by your imagination. Consider a mobile planter such as a wheelbarrow or wagon that can be moved around to take advantage of sun on shorter fall days. An old birdbath that is cracked and no longer able to hold water can be re-purposed to hold a garden. A strawberry jar allows patches of color to pop out at different heights. A wine barrel has space for a larger garden. Of course, traditional window boxes and clay planters are always great options as well.

A hollowed out pumpkin makes a colorful and festive container. Choose both orange and white pumpkins for variety. Cut the top off of your pumpkin just as you would to create a jack-o-lantern. Scoop out the pulp and seeds from inside the pumpkin (be sure to save the seeds for roasting). Drill a few drainage holes in the bottom of the pumpkin, and it is ready for planting. Consider using a variety of pumpkin sizes to create visual interest.

Like the hollow pumpkin idea? Consider expanding your options by using the same techniques to create a planter out of squash such as an upright butternut squash.

Once you have your container you need to think about what to plant in it. The first rule is to choose plants that a tolerant of cooler temperatures.

2. Color!

Fall container gardening celebrates color. Make your garden light up with fiery red and orange marigolds. Yellow chrysanthemums shine when juxtaposed against purple kale. Green ferns and ivy add a hint of summery green. Pink and purple are often associated with spring or summer gardens, but by planting Pink Frost (a small anise tree) and Welch’s Pink (Callicarpa americana) they can find a home in a fall garden as well.

Adding texture to your container garden takes it from so-so to so fabulous. Consider purple fountain grass for a soft, airy texture. Dried hydrangeas add an interesting texture as well as a round shape.

Succulents are great additions to fall gardens because they add both texture and color. The aptly named “Autumn Joy” is a sedum with blue-green oblong leaves and a dusty pink flower. (As an added bonus, bees and butterflies love this plant.) Hens-and-chicks (Sempervivum) is a succulent that covers the ground with texture. The sedum “Frosty Morn” evokes a touch of frost on its grey-green leaves. Go bold with Opuntia compressa which offers a fun yellow flower.

Collards and kale aren’t only nutritious veggies, they’re also great additions to add texture to your garden. They come in both edible and decorative varieties, so choose an edible variety if you enjoy munching on them.

Fall container gardening isn’t limited to only plants. Add twigs for texture and height, and berries such as orange bittersweet for a bold color and smooth texture.

Don’t forget lower plants such as violas, pansies, and petunias that can be planted in front of taller plants for color at a lower level.

5. Less maintenance, but not no-maintenance

Fall container gardening is wonderful because it requires less weeding and pruning than larger gardens, but that doesn’t mean you can ignore it completely. Healthy soil grows healthy plants so amend the soil with compost. Container gardens–especially if they’re densely planted–dry out quickly so remember to water regularly.

]]>3 Easy Steps to Worm Composting Bins That Won’t Gross You Outhttp://www.organicauthority.com/3-easy-steps-to-worm-composting-bins-that-wont-gross-you-out/
Wed, 29 Jul 2015 09:00:13 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/?p=37049Harness the power of worms for bigger, healthier plants. Some may see worms as gross, but they’re lean, mean composting machines. Using worm composting bins can yield the same results as using other organic practices. Worm composting, also known as vermicomposting, uses worms in a bin to turn kitchen and garden scraps into nutrient rich […]

Harness the power of worms for bigger, healthier plants. Some may see worms as gross, but they’re lean, mean composting machines. Using worm composting bins can yield the same results as using other organic practices.

Worm composting, also known as vermicomposting, uses worms in a bin to turn kitchen and garden scraps into nutrient rich compost. The worms live in the bin, eat the scraps, and their castings (yes, worm poop!) become a nutritious organic soil amendment.

Worm composting is easy enough that children can manage their own bin, you know, in case you get squirmy around worms.

Benefits of worm composting:

* It is rich in slow-release nutrients.

* It is high in beneficial micro-organisms.

* It helps plants fight disease.

* It helps plants retain water.

How to create a worm composting bin

1. Gather your supplies

Worms can be purchased online or at most garden supply stores. An Internet search will lead you to worm farmers selling worms by the pound. Also, anyone who is currently composting with worms may offer to share a couple handfuls from their bin if you tell them about your endeavor. Check out your local farmers market or community garden for possible “friends with worm benefits.”

2. Place a few inches of shredded newspaper in the bottom of the bin.

Add a few inches of compost or organic soil on top of the newspaper. Feel the material in the bin. If the compost or soil is dry then moisten with a bit of water. Worms like a moderately damp habitat.

Now, put the worms in their new home along with two cups of food scraps. Worms like the food scraps that you usually put in a compost bin–fruits and vegetable peels and cores, pasta (without sauce), beans, and coffee grounds. Worms do not like onions, garlic, citrus fruits, meat, or oil.

Although raw scraps can go in the bin, freezing and then thawing helps to break them down faster.

After a few days it will be obvious how quickly the worms are processing the food. Use this to guide how often you feed them. If the bin does not have any visible food, add more. If there are still chunks of food laying around then check again in a few days.

Many guides to worm composting say that a lid on the bin is not necessary. But anecdotal information suggests that one is often helpful to keep rogue worms inside and also to keep other pests out of the bin. If using a lid, be sure that it has many holes to aid air circulation.

3. Keep the bin in an area where it will not freeze.

It can be outside in temperatures above 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit, but you will want to secure the top so that neighborhood cats or raccoons can’t get into it.

A basement, closet, or under the sink are also good places for the bin. It should not stink. Rather, it should have a pleasant, earthy smell.

A functioning worm bin requires little attention. Of course, kitchen scraps need to be added from time to time. Also, be aware of the moisture level in the bin. If it is too wet then add more shredded newspaper. If it is too dry then moisten with water.

Harvesting the compost is messy but richly rewarding. Take out as many worms as you can and set them aside in another container. Then scoop out the compost, which should look like wet coffee grounds, and place into your garden. The worms that were removed can be used to start a new bin.

Some gardeners harvest compost every few months and others only twice a year.

Troubleshooting tips

Worms aren’t the only critters who may live in your compost bin; fruit flies may hang around. Burying the food scraps deeper in the bin or adding a layer of shredded newspaper on top should discourage the flies. Placing a fly strip on top of the bin also helps eradicate them.

If the bin develops a foul odor then it is too wet, isn’t getting enough air circulation, or the food is not buried deep enough. Again, adding a layer of shredded newspaper should help absorb moisture. More holes in the lid will encourage air circulation and burying the food scraps deeper will also help reduce odor.

Bugs like spring-tails and isopods won’t harm the worm bin. Mold is a natural part of the decomposition process and is fine in the bin.
Trial and error is your best teacher for a thriving worm composting bin. If you aren’t successful then dump your bin and try again. If you are successful then your worm population will double in 90 days.

]]>5 (More) Kitchen Scraps for Regrowing Vegetables and Reducing Food Wastehttp://www.organicauthority.com/5-more-kitchen-scraps-for-regrowing-vegetables-and-reducing-food-waste/
Mon, 12 May 2014 07:00:26 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/?p=29279It’s a win-win. You don’t have to create food waste and throw away kitchen scraps when you can be regrowing vegetables for free. Composting is of course your best option when it comes to putting food waste to work in your garden. But in the short term, a number of scraps can be used in […]

It’s a win-win. You don’t have to create food waste and throw away kitchen scraps when you can be regrowing vegetables for free.

Composting is of course your best option when it comes to putting food waste to work in your garden. But in the short term, a number of scraps can be used in regrowing vegetables in a matter of weeks. In fact, this list includes vegetables that cultivate so well under these conditions, that you may never need to buy them again. It’s an easy way to reduce food waste and save money all at the same time.

1. Potatoes

You’ve seen them sprout, so you know there’s potential. Those mini plants that begin to grow out of your potatoes after about a week are called eyes and they’re the key to re-growing taters . Cut a square about two inches deep around two of the biggest eyes on your potato. Let them sit in the sunlight for a few days, until they really dry out. This prevents mold once you replant them. Plant 8 inches deep with the eye facing up and bam, kitchen scraps become garden bounty.

2. Garlic

You can see results just by planting a single clove root-end down. Plant in shallow ground in the sunniest part of your garden.

3. Onions

Onions are one of those plants that just by regrowing them, you can avoid ever having to buy them again. Cover with topsoil in a sunny position in your garden. You can keep doing this over and over again and save money on onions at the grocery store.

4. Leeks

Just take the base of a leek and cut straight across. Cover them in water and leave them on a sunny windowsill for a week or so. Once they start sprouting, you’ll have fresh leeks all over again.

5. Fennel

Take the leftover fennel roots and place them in a small container filled with water. Keep on a sunny windowsill just as you did the leeks. You can plant in the ground if you’d like, but you don’t need to for success. Just make sure that you change the water every week.

]]>8 Awesome Rooftop Gardens from Around the Worldhttp://www.organicauthority.com/8-awesome-rooftop-gardens-from-around-the-world/
Sat, 10 May 2014 07:00:32 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/?p=29057Check out these amazing and creative rooftop gardens from around the world for inspiration in your urban, container or concrete garden! 1. Brooklyn Grange in New York This amazing urban farm has two New York City locations that total 2.5 acres in cultivations space that produce more 50,000 pounds of organically-grown vegetables each year. The Brooklyn […]

Check out these amazing and creative rooftop gardens from around the world for inspiration in your urban, container or concrete garden!

1. Brooklyn Grange in New YorkThis amazing urban farm has two New York City locations that total 2.5 acres in cultivations space that produce more 50,000 pounds of organically-grown vegetables each year. The Brooklyn Grange also works with other urban farming projects and operates New York City’s largest apiary with its 30 naturally-managed honey bee hives.

2. Rooftop Garden on Chicago City HallThis work of botanical art was installed in 2000 as part of Chi-town’s initiative to test the benefits of green roofs and how they may affect temperature and air quality. The garden consists of more than 150 species of vines, shrubs and trees that are native to the Chicago region, and adapted to the high levels of wind and sun exposure they receive.

3. Foro Ciel in Mexico CityIn 2013, the helipad roof of an office tower in Mexico City was turned into an brilliant rooftop garden made from recycled materials. The green roof is planted with native species, contains and integrated solar system that generates electricity for the offices below, and even captures rainwater.

4. City Farm in TokyoThe City Farm in Tokyo allows local city dwellers to grow staple Japanese ingredients such as rice, eggplant, and soybeans with special irrigation and draining methods.

5. Lufa Farms in MontrealThis is essentially a rooftop farm encased in a 31,000 square foot greenhouse built atop a brick building in downtown Montreal. The farm produces around 40 different crops year round, offering fresh produce to Montreal residents even in the cold Canadian winters.

6. HK Farms in Hong KongHK Farms is a cooperative of urban farmers, artists and designers working together to spread the word on the benefits and possibilities within urban agriculture. The farms’ produce and art projects are available online and from the farm itself.

7. Dadakker in RotterdamDadakker was founded by an architecture collective that reclaimed an old building in the center of Rotterdam and built an urban farm on the roof. The farm grows vegetables, herbs and houses bees, with produce being sold to local restaurants and shops.

8. Waldspirale in Darmstadt, GermanyThe Waldspirale (which means wooden spiral in German) is a residential building containing 105 apartments and a cafe and bar. The top of the building is planted with native shrubs, grass, flowers and trees – we would love to live here!

]]>Laura’s Favs: Tweets and Comments (May 9, 2014)http://www.organicauthority.com/lauras-favs-tweets-and-comments-may-09-2014/
Fri, 09 May 2014 07:00:46 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/?p=29286Happy Friday, everyone! If you’re new to OA, we take time once a week to thank our fans for all the posts, comments, and tweets they leave us every week. If you have any thoughts or ideas about how we can improve, please share. Remember to follow us on Instagram, Pinterest, and Google+ to stay up to date on all our social networks! […]

Chef Todd Mohr Nice article! You cannot break food down into its parts, then concentrate on only one part. The best QUALITY food gives the best energy and nutrition. [5 Reasons You’ll Quit Counting Calories For Good http://bit.ly/1e9unsx]

Caroline Andrews I let some of my basil go to flower for the bees. They love it! I saw a hummingbird drinking from some yesterday, too. [12 Bee-Friendly Plants for an Awesome Herb Garden http://bit.ly/1rMaEFI]

Pam Shay I put mint in with my green peas. It looks funky after cooked just dig out. Tastes amazing. I cook both with onions and butter also added. I grow in a pot so it does not take over everything and it comes back up every year. [5 Reasons to Get Cooking with Mint (It’s Not Just Chewing Gum Flavor) http://bit.ly/1mhFN6G]

Denise Watters Thanks for the recipe. I also use coconut or almond milk. This will be a great addition. [Raw Chocolate Smoothie Recipe with Avocado, Almond Milk and Raw Honey http://bit.lu/R6ZAaG]

Julia Kharitonenko Awesome!! We’ve been eating it since I can remember!!! Yummy by itself or in any dish!!! It’s a staple in my family from toddlers to adults!! [Farmers Market Find: Green garlic. I love cooking with green garlic in the spring. Did you know you can just chop up the whole bulb and use it in cooking like you do with normal garlic? Simply remove the tough outer skin, stem and chop! You can even use the green parts too. Green garlic is much milder than regular garlic so you can use more. What’s your favorite Farmers Market Find?]

]]>What is Urban Gardening? The Hot Trend That’s Taking Over Citieshttp://www.organicauthority.com/what-is-urban-gardening-hot-trend/
Thu, 08 May 2014 07:00:46 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/?p=28941In the past, when thinking about gardening and farming, images of the countryside filled with rows of vegetables is what would come to mind. But the times are changing. More and more of our local food production is going on in our urban centers. In fact, according to the USDA about 15% of the world’s […]

In the past, when thinking about gardening and farming, images of the countryside filled with rows of vegetables is what would come to mind. But the times are changing. More and more of our local food production is going on in our urban centers. In fact, according to the USDA about 15% of the world’s food supply is now grown in urban centers. And this trend is forecasted to increase as the world’s population is expected to become even more of an urban dwelling one.

What is Urban Gardening?

Urban gardening and farming are mishmashes of techniques and approaches to growing and raising food in densely populated urban centers. Because of the very nature of cities, there’s not a one-size-fits-all approach, but rather a plethora of solutions and practices that are undertaken by individuals, communities, cooperatives and businesses alike. A restaurant may grow their own herbs in an indoor garden, a neighborhood may take over a vacant lot for a raised bed garden, a cooperative may keep bees for honey on the roof, or a family may plan a container garden for a patio–all are examples of urban gardening. Instead of the long-standing practice of trucking in the food to cities, city dwellers are taking matters into their own hands to produce local and sustainable food.

How to Get Involved with Urban Gardening

If you aren’t yet involved with urban farming, or are just starting out, here are some fantastic resources to get you started or to help you expand your urban garden.

What are the Main Benefits to Urban Gardening?

Freshness – As anyone who has ever eaten a tomato right off the vine, nothing beats eating ripe produce as soon as possible.

Sustainability – Eating local is one of the best things we can all do for the planet and avoiding transportation energy costs is one of the main reasons why.

Access to Quality Food – Some residents in cities do not have access to high quality, affordable fresh fruits and vegetables and a community garden can make all the difference in the world to them.

Quality of Life – Urban farming can help strengthen communities, give folks a sense of accomplishment, offer benefits of exercise, build on community and individual resourcefulness, take advantage of unused resources, add more green space and more.

]]>DIY Terrarium: When You Need More Plants in Your Lifehttp://www.organicauthority.com/sanctuary/diy-terrarium-when-you-need-more-plants-in-your-life.html
Sat, 10 Aug 2013 15:00:00 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/s2-sanctuary/c5-sanctuary/diy-terrarium-when-you-need-more-plants-in-your-life/If you don’t get out into nature as much as you’d like, you can always bring nature to you. Create a terrarium. Terrariums are glass-enclosed mini gardens, natural indoor décor that require minimal maintenance once planted. Whether you need some peaceful scenery for your work desk, a decorative planter for your home or a pick-me-up […]

If you don’t get out into nature as much as you’d like, you can always bring nature to you. Create a terrarium. Terrariums are glass-enclosed mini gardens, natural indoor décor that require minimal maintenance once planted. Whether you need some peaceful scenery for your work desk, a decorative planter for your home or a pick-me-up gift for a friend, terrariums are an easy way to bring fresh natural beauty inside.

First, you’ll need to decide whether you want an open or closed terrarium. This may depend on the kind of jar you have, but it will dictate the type of plants that you can grow inside. Buy your plants at a reputable shop that will give you a refund if they die within a year, and choose miniature varieties that won’t outgrow the terrarium.

OPEN terrariums require slightly more maintenance (water 1-2 times per week and mist once per day) and can stand up to brighter light. In open terrariums, use cacti and succulents such as aloe, jade, sedum (burro’s tail), hens and chicks, hawthoria or earth stars.

CLOSED terrariums just need to be misted daily and almost never need watering. Use moss to cover the ground in closed terrariums, and complement with ferns, schefflera, baby’s tears and other low-light plants.

1. Find a container. You’ll want to use a clear glass jar or container that has an opening big enough for your hand. It can be as small as an up-cycled spaghetti sauce jar, or as big as a large aquarium. Upright jars work well, and you can also look for oddball shapes of containers. You may be able to find a neat jar in your recycling bin, or hobby stores will sell a large variety. Be sure to wash your container out well before you begin.

2. Start solid. Fill the bottom of your container with about one inch of pebbles or small rocks. This helps the soil to drain, and also prevents stagnation in your terrarium. You can also use broken pottery pieces, seashells or marbles.

3. Charcoal first. Place a thin layer of activated (or crushed) charcoal on your rocks to help keep your terrarium fresh from mold.

4. Sand second. Although you can skip this step and go right to the dirt, a few thin layers of different colored sand below your potting soil creates a pretty striped effect.

5. Get dirty. Put a thicker layer of organic potting soil on top of your sand. Pat it down gently until your container is about 1/3 full.

6. Add your plants, starting with the largest first. Dig small holes where each plant will go, then nestle it gently into place. Pat down the soil around each plant, and don’t crowd things too tightly. You want to save room for décor.

7. Decorate! Let your style shine as you adorn your little green world with landscaping elements: crystals, toys, figurines, pinecones, seashells, pretty rocks, small pieces of driftwood, miniature gnomes or aquarium décor. You may find it helpful to use your chopsticks or a small funnel to position the pieces in place.

8. Maintain. Keep your terrarium out of direct sunlight and don’t place it next to the heater. Water regularly, remove any dead plants and your terrarium should bring you peace and beauty for many years to come.

]]>The Art Of Container Gardening: 13 Tips for a Happy Container Gardenhttp://www.organicauthority.com/organic-gardening/the-art-of-container-gardening-almost-anything-can-be-a-pot.html
Fri, 03 May 2013 15:00:00 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/s3-kitchen-garden/c6-organic-gardening/the-art-of-container-gardening-almost-anything-can-be-a-pot/For those of you DIY upcyclers out there who wish to avoid buying new pots and containers for your organic garden this spring, you’re in luck. Because almost anything you can put drainage holes in can become a practical artisan plant container. Now, lets look at what a typical container garden needs to thrive, before we […]

For those of you DIY upcyclers out there who wish to avoid buying new pots and containers for your organic garden this spring, you’re in luck. Because almost anything you can put drainage holes in can become a practical artisan plant container. Now, lets look at what a typical container garden needs to thrive, before we break out the old tool box.

Just like shopping for a new home or apartment, there are always drawbacks and advantages to consider. But fortunately for all of us, plants aren’t as picky when it comes to their temporary domicile. To effectively plant outside the norm this spring, it is recommended that you first understand the assets and limitations of your general garden containers.

Cocoa fiber- or moss-lined containers and clay pots are natural (which is a good thing), but because they are porous, they dry out quicker.

Plastic or glazed pottery, are easier to come by, but they dry out slower, because water cannot evaporate through their sides.

Wood has good water retention, but it is prone to rotting. (Use red cedar and black locust (10-12 years before it rots) or pine (2-4 years before it rots) whenever possible to avoid rot.)

Fiberglass and/or resin pots are lightweight, generally less expensive (when you can find them) and cold weather-resistant. They are both nonpourous (a pro and/or a con) and due to their weight, they are prone to tipping over.

Before we can get too crafty and address the diversity of pottery forms available for you to create, let me state the basic function of a container. The pot or container’s sole purpose in life is to contain: the soil, plant, nutrients, water, oxygen and diverse colonies of microorganisms. Pretty simple. Until that is we factor in YOU – the gardener.

To help you, the budding artisan gardener, with your purpose as caretaker of your contained plants, here are a few tips and guidelines to consider and use throughout your plants life cycle:

To make life easier on you and your plants, select a larger container. More soil allows your root system additional real estate to spread out in. This will provide your plants with a healthier and fruiter life.

Create drainage holes or use layers of gravel if you cannot make drainage holes.

Fill your container to as close to the top as you can get. Leaving a tiny lip to contain the water.

Smaller containers will need to be watered more often. If temperatures reach the high 90’s, you’ll likely need to water more than once a day.

Water when the top of the soil is dry. (See your plants specific water needs for more accuracy.)

Water until you see it flow out the drainage holes.

To help with drainage, set containers on wood blocks, upside down terra-cotta pots, or bricks.

Do not let your pot or plant sit in standing water.

Replace the soil every year or every other year at most. Add more soil to the top, if you notice it getting low.

If your plants had disease problems during the season, it’s best to change all of the soil and thoroughly clean the pot.

Take photos and post them online to plant digital seeds of inspiration in your social network gardens.

Now that you see the level of commitment and consideration a healthy container garden needs, stay tuned, as next week we’ll look at a few creative designs for DIY garden pots you can begin making in no time. All you need is: soil, a plant, and a light bulb. Until then, I’ll see you in the garden.

]]>A Garden Grows Down? Behold: the Hanging Baskethttp://www.organicauthority.com/organic-gardening/hanging-basket-container-garden.html
Thu, 04 Apr 2013 05:24:37 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/s3-kitchen-garden/c6-organic-gardening/hanging-basket-container-garden/Are you a crafty gardener? Working in small spaces, repurposing old anything into cute and functional planters? Perhaps you’re growing indoors and outdoors, and that little space in between. You’ve got food growing in pots, flowers in beds and are eying that space between the street and sidewalk….congratulations. But are you missing another golden gardening […]

Are you a crafty gardener? Working in small spaces, repurposing old anything into cute and functional planters? Perhaps you’re growing indoors and outdoors, and that little space in between. You’ve got food growing in pots, flowers in beds and are eying that space between the street and sidewalk….congratulations. But are you missing another golden gardening opportunity? What could that be, you ask? Why, the hanging basket, of course.

The suspended hanging basket is a natural extension of your container pots around the yard. They can even break up tall spaces that can feel too open and empty, adding depth to a yard or indoors.

Functionally, they work about just the same as garden pots, requiring the same filling of loam, dirt, etc. The real magic comes in where you hang them, of course.

Here are a few tips:

The container: You don’t need to go for an “official” hanging basket. Any basket with sufficient drainage should work. Fun shapes can make a really nice hanging basket such as cone or square. You DIY-ers can attach ropes, chains and hooks, easily instead of purchasing hanging baskets.

What to plant: Plants that grow straight up might be other than ideal for a hanging platform. Pothos might be a better choice, or a spider plant. Herbs can do well in a hanging pot as well. Flowers are good too like impatiens, dahlias, vine portulaca—but don’t hang those too high so you can see their bright colors!

Where to hang them: Hanging pots can decorate a porch, border windows, enhance drab wall space in the garden, and liven up any standing structures you can fashion a hanging pot onto…even a tree. Take into consideration sunlight and shade when hanging your baskets. Also consider if they’re at head-height and in danger of being bumped.

Indulge your green streak and green thumb at the same time and try your hand at creating unique repurposed container garden planters to give your yard, back porch or home a fresh piece of organic décor from upcycled materials. You can turn normal household items and thrift store scores into neat planters that charm with colorful flowers or fragrant herbs along with an element of surprise.

Use the following ideas, or scour your house and yard for hidden planters just waiting to happen. For best results, use organic potting soil for your plants. Line the bottom of each planter with enough medium-sized stones to cover it, and don’t forget to poke holes to allow for drainage.

1. Teapots – Has your teapot lost its whistle? Turn it into a pretty flowerpot for a couple of pretty blooms. Choose colors that contrast with the kettle.

2. Boots – Lovingly worn boots and shoes make beautiful planters, especially when arranged together in a line of mismatched flowers. In particular, bright colored galoshes, cowboy boots and children’s shoes make cute planters. Place in a row or hang several along a fence for maximum effect.

3. Barbeque Grill – Replacing your beloved backyard barbecue grill with a snazzy new model? Use your old grill as a unique planter. Remove the grill and top cover and you’ll have room for plenty of plants, or even a whole herb garden to season the food you’ll cook on your new grill!

4. Bed Frames – Plant your bed of roses (tulips, daffodils or irises) in an actual bed frame. Remove the legs of a child’s bed or a vintage bed frame and you have a clever garden keeper that can wrangle quite a few flowers.

5. Tires – Even the ugliest old tire can have new life as a hanging planter. After drilling a few holes, plant the bottom of the circle with soil and flowers, then hang your old tire on an outside fence, door or wall.

6. Coolers – An old, stained cooler can make a kitschy camping statement when turned into a planter and filled with bright blooms, reminiscent of colored bottles of soda, juice or beer.

7. Toilet – For a truly original garden statement, turn an old commode into a flower-filled planter. You’ll have the sweetest smelling toilet in the neighborhood as well as an instant backyard conversation piece.

8. Toys – As your children grow out of their toys, keep an eye out for kiddie kitchen items, trucks, dollhouses, kick balls and other items that could be turned into a container planter. Even better, use your new garden toys to inspire the kids to tend a section of flowers, herbs or plants on their own.

9. Expired Electronics – Don’t toss your giant old computer monitor or box TV set that doesn’t work. Instead, clean out the insides and use the antiquated hardware to create the hippest planter on the block.

10. Colander – Old metal colanders make ideal hanging planters, because their pre-existing holes makes it easy to hang and drain them. Be sure to pack your soil a little tighter than normal so it doesn’t fall out.

11. Desk – Take your work outside and turn an old desk into several shelves of flowers. Simple use each drawer to house your favorite plants, and pull them all out at different levels. Top the desk of with another planter made out of an old lamp, and gain a new perspective on your work.

]]>Tiny Plot, Big Bounty: 4 Small-Space Gardening Inspirationshttp://www.organicauthority.com/organic-gardening/small-space-urban-gardening-ideas.html
Fri, 23 Mar 2012 06:14:36 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/s3-kitchen-garden/c6-organic-gardening/small-space-urban-gardening-ideas/Life ain’t perfect, and many of us probably wish our living arrangements offered a little more space for wandering cucumber vines, rows of lettuce and towering tomato plants. But “no space” is no excuse. Unless you live in an actual shoebox, you do have space for a garden—even if it’s only one plant. Here are some tried-and-true […]

Life ain’t perfect, and many of us probably wish our living arrangements offered a little more space for wandering cucumber vines, rows of lettuce and towering tomato plants. But “no space” is no excuse. Unless you live in an actual shoebox, you do have space for a garden—even if it’s only one plant. Here are some tried-and-true techniques to get your imagination working and your new garden growing.

1. Container Gardening

The standby method for growing more food in less space (and with less weeds): Plant your garden in pots, buckets and other containers, and put them on your balcony, fire escape or porch. Or just keep them indoors. Container gardens let you control the quality and moisture of your soil, and you can extend your growing season by bringing plants in on cold nights.

Mike Lieberman’s self-watering container design is extremely useful whether you’re an experienced gardener or a newbie. While you’re at his site, stick around and read about his very successful fire escape container garden.

2. Vertical Gardening

A couple of years ago, a New York company made big waves in the gardening community with a simple DIY concept: window farming by hanging columns of plants in a window. That’s one way to garden vertically, but the fact is you can be pretty creative with the concept. The only rule: Expand vertically when you can’t go horizontally.

3. Succession Planting

Who ever said that two things can’t exist in the same location? That person never heard of succession planting. With a little planning, you can have multiple harvests in the same plot. For example, peas start and finish early—so follow them with sweet corn. When the corn’s done, throw in a winter green like kale.

Bonus: Try square foot gardening, a planning technique that allows you to have a series of small harvests from even a tiny plot.

4. Occupying Unused Spaces

So you really can’t cram another sprig of basil into your space… but what about the garden border in front of your apartment, or the ragged lawn behind it? There are lots of places to sneak in a couple of edible plants, in your yard or any place else. As long as you keep them from getting unruly, they probably won’t bother anyone. In fact, your landlord might think it’s a great idea. So ask! Or don’t ask. Just don’t let all that garden-able square footage go to waste.

]]>Get Your Container Garden Growing, Now!http://www.organicauthority.com/organic-gardening/how-to-start-and-maintain-a-container-garden-full-of-fresh-veggies-for-your-home-apartment.html
Mon, 12 Mar 2012 02:28:13 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/s3-kitchen-garden/c6-organic-gardening/how-to-start-and-maintain-a-container-garden-full-of-fresh-veggies-for-your-home-apartment/The sweet smell of spring is in the air. Spring’s the time when the faint smell of humidity elicits joy rather than annoyance. Everything’s green, starting to bud, and — oh, wait. A local meteorologist just said a mild freeze is going to hit next Thursday morning. Lovely. Just lovely. Spring comes with inherent temperature […]

The sweet smell of spring is in the air. Spring’s the time when the faint smell of humidity elicits joy rather than annoyance. Everything’s green, starting to bud, and — oh, wait. A local meteorologist just said a mild freeze is going to hit next Thursday morning. Lovely. Just lovely.

Spring comes with inherent temperature spikes and plunges that can make spring seedlings, well, dead-ish. A way to protect and preserve garden starts from unpredictable spring weather is to opt out of starting a traditional garden (for now), and start a container garden.

Containers of fresh veggies, and bright perennial and annual flowers can stay outside when weather complies. Simply haul plants inside when overnight weather gets iffy. As the season tumbles onward, apartment inhabitants can leave plants in the containers on a balcony. If you own a home, you can leave containers on your deck, or transplant plants to your garden.

Benefits of a Container Garden

You can move them around: move containers to suit your plants’ needs. Move containers to a sunny spot if your plants need additional light, to the shade if it gets too steamy, or inside if a cold front is forecasted to roll in overnight.

Protect your plants from the elements: If a bad storm is predicted, move plants out of harm’s way. Or, if you live in an area with lots of sneaky wild animals who enjoy prowling your garden for food at night, move goods indoors until morning.

What to Grow

You can grow everything from flowers to vegetables. Consider planting lettuce and kale in containers that will reside in the shade, and cultivate tomatoes in containers situated in the sun. Herbs do well in small containers too. Other veggies to consider growing include peppers, spinach, onions and carrots. Also, you can grow “trailing” vegetables (beans, peas, cucumbers) in containers if you provide vertical support for the growing plant.

Use any container that can hold soil and has holes that allow drainage (holes that are about 1/2 inch across). Also, line the pot’s base with newspaper to prevent soil loss. Here are a few container suggestions:

Planter boxes

Wooden barrels (check to see the kind of wood used and go for varieties that are rot resistant.)

Hanging baskets

Large flowerpots

Recycled or re-purpose items (discarded watering cans)

Opt for larger containers to allow growth, and if you grow rooted plants, buy deep containers.

Caring for Your Container Garden

Watering

What happens to most plants that reside in containers? People neglect to water them. Since you’ll harvest from these plants later, it may be easier to remember to keep them watered. Water according to weather and when dry. Mulch can maintain soil moisture too.

Organic fertilizers

Try fertilizers that are fish or compost-based. Also consider worm castings.

Healthy soil

Eliza Cross of GaiamLife has some great advice on buying or creating your own natural soil:

“You can buy special organic container mix at many garden centers, or you can make your own by amending dirt from your garden for container gardening; simply mix together one part garden soil, one part compost and one part sand. You may also want to add some peat moss, which will help the mixture hold water. To improve drainage you can also add organic perlite, which lightens the soil mixture and has a neutral pH.”

]]>5 Cold-Happy Foods to Grow This Fallhttp://www.organicauthority.com/organic-gardening/cold-happy-vegetables-to-grow-this-fall-winter.html
Wed, 28 Sep 2011 10:25:38 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/s3-kitchen-garden/c6-organic-gardening/cold-happy-vegetables-to-grow-this-fall-winter/Those bountiful summer harvests are long over… or so you thought. Just because the weather has turned cool doesn’t mean you can’t eat well. You can still get homegrown, nutritious veggies in the fall by planting a few varieties that love chilly temperatures. The first frosts are coming up, so get going! You can check […]

Those bountiful summer harvests are long over… or so you thought. Just because the weather has turned cool doesn’t mean you can’t eat well. You can still get homegrown, nutritious veggies in the fall by planting a few varieties that love chilly temperatures.

The first frosts are coming up, so get going! You can check your area’s first frost date on the National Climatic Data Center to see if you can start planting with seeds, or if the first frost is too soon and you’ll need transplants. (Chances are you’ll need transplants.)

So what can you plant this season? These five cold-weather veggies do well in most areas. And for us gardeners who like less labor, these babies also grow well in containers. Double score!

1. Lettuces

Lettuces aren’t picky growers. They’ll shoot up in warm, spring weather or during the brisk temperatures of fall. They grow best when temperatures range between 45 and 75 degrees.

You can sow lettuce seeds four to eight weeks before your area’s first frost. After that, cold-tolerant lettuce varieties, such as butterhead and romaine, grow best. Keep in mind lettuces are lushes; they like their water. Make sure the soil stays moist by watering once every one to two days.

2. Radishes

These babies were made for fall. Radishes actually grow best in cool weather. Get excited. These fast-growing plants are ready for you to chomp into in only one month!

Plant radishes at least eight weeks before the first fall frost in your area.

They grow best when temperatures range between 50 and 70 degrees. Keep their soil constantly moist; radishes like their environment cool and wet.

3. Cabbage

Crunchy, crinkly cabbage is so hardy it can withstand light frosts and freezes. Most of the areas in the U.S. can grow cabbage in spring and fall, but because it worships the cool weather, it’s considered a winter crop for Southern states.

Cabbage is kind of antisocial. It likes its space. Plant seeds in a large container that’s at least eight inches deep. They’re thirsty little plants, too, so make sure to water your cabbages regularly. If you don’t water them consistently their heads will split.

After the heads have formed, cabbages don’t need as much pampering. As they mature, simply cut back on watering to avoid cracking their heads.

4. Spinach

Lucky for us fall growers, spinach loves to bask in cool weather, not the summer sun. You need to plant spinach five to seven weeks before your area’s first frost. If it’s too late to start seeds in your area, plant transplants. Place them in a container that’s at least 10 inches deep.

This tough leafy green is quite independent. It requires only minimal coddling from you to grow. Give spinach regular watering and maintenance and it’ll be ready to harvest in four to six weeks.

Savoyed varieties grow especially well in cold weather. Their dark green leaves will crisp up in those chilly temperatures that have us a shiverin’.

If you’re already looking ahead to spring, you savvy gardener, you can also plant a winter crop of spinach that will show up in early spring. Just be sure to cover the seedlings during frigid weather.

5. Kale

Kale actually gets tastier in cool temperatures. No joke. It reacts to frost by increasing sugar production (the plant’s natural antifreeze), which makes the leaves taste sweeter.

Kale does well in temperatures as low as 20 degrees. Plant it in eight-inch deep containers. All it requires is regular watering and care.

]]>Meet Mike Lieberman: The Urban Organic Gardenerhttp://www.organicauthority.com/organic-gardening/meet-mike-lieberman-the-urban-organic-gardener.html
Tue, 05 Jul 2011 23:35:52 +0000http://www.organicauthority.com/s3-kitchen-garden/c6-organic-gardening/meet-mike-lieberman-the-urban-organic-gardener/When Mike Lieberman started growing his own food, he didn’t know what he was doing—he just went for it. In May 2009 the novice gardener started an urban garden on the 2×3 fire escape landing outside of his New York City apartment. Despite the teeny space (that he reached by hopping over a “mad” shaky […]

When Mike Lieberman started growing his own food, he didn’t know what he was doing—he just went for it.

In May 2009 the novice gardener started an urban garden on the 2×3 fire escape landing outside of his New York City apartment. Despite the teeny space (that he reached by hopping over a “mad” shaky radiator and crawling through his roommate’s window), he managed to grow lettuce, kale, red and chile peppers and cherry tomatoes using self-watering containers and hanging planters made from soda bottles.

At the same time, he experimented with a larger container garden in his grandmother’s backyard in Brooklyn. Throughout the seven-month urban gardening journey, he recorded the ups and downs of his experiences on his website, urbanorganicgardener.com.

Today Mike lives in Los Angeles, where he moved in April 2010. He can still claim the title “urban organic gardener,” as he traded in his fire escape garden for a 13×4 balcony.

Just as his garden space grew, his website has also expanded and evolved. “If I’m just writing about gardening four days a week, that would be ridiculously boring. Boring for me and for the people that I’m attempting to reach,” he says. Today, on top of writing about his urban garden, he also uses his website to provide information on the food world and eco-conscious living. “For me it’s become more about raising awareness and empowering people to get started growing their own food,” he says.

Organic Authority spoke with Mike about the journey of growing his own food, his website and where he’s at today. Whether you’re currently enjoying your organic garden or are looking forward to next year, check out his advice.

How’d you feel the first time you picked something from your garden?

We’re all very much used to going to the grocery store, getting food off the shelves and then, when we’re done, going back to the grocery store and getting food off the shelves. The first time I picked lettuce from my containers, I thought, “Okay, am I done?” I was confused for a week or so. It’s not like picking it off the shelf. As simple as it sounds, there was a learning curve there.

What’s the most rewarding part about growing your own food?

Reconnecting with the land, reconnecting and actually enjoying the fruits of your own labor. It’s something, as a society, that we’ve gotten away from and that shows in many ways, especially with our health.

If you had to give newbie gardeners one tip, what would it be?

Just get started. Do something. Don’t wait. Everyone’s waiting for the perfect time, the perfect conditions, the perfect apartment—and that just doesn’t exist. Get a container. Get some soil and seeds and just figure it out as you go. As long as you learn and keep on going, you’ll be fine.

What are your favorite foods to grow?

Greens. Lettuces, kale, spinach, chards. They’re what I eat a lot. They’re also pretty easy to grow—and we all know what to do with them.

How’s your garden doing right now?

Not much is doing that well right now. I think I know why. The soil that I bought is kind of crap. Swiss chard is doing really well, though. For the first time I attempted to grow miniature pumpkins. They’ve started to sprout up. Last year I made a lot of pumpkin muffins. Definitely a few months to go on them, though.

Any new plans for your garden in the future?

I have some projects that I’m excited about, that I’m hoping to finalize. One of them is getting more in-ground planting as opposed to having all container stuff.

What do you hope that your website does for people?

I like when people e-mail me or leave comments for me saying that they have a balcony or a fire escape garden, or a garden in their front yard. I like seeing that they’ve been inspired to do something on their own.

When I see my friends that I’ve known for 10, 15, 20 years start growing their own food, buying organic—when I see them doing that—I know that I’ve hit the right tone, the right message. They’re my audience, so when they started acting upon this, I knew I’d had an impact.

What’s one message you would like to give people?

We all have 24 hours in a day. It’s a matter of how you prioritize what you do with those 24 hours. For me, when you think about it that way, the most important thing you have to take care of is your health, whether that means exercising, spending time with loved ones or preparing your own meals. People say they’re working 12 to 13 hour days; they don’t have time to go grocery shopping. We all have 24 hours. It’s a matter of priorities.

When did you first become an environmentalist?

I’ve always been into the outdoors, nature, but I wouldn’t necessarily say I was an environmentalist or an activist. In the last three to five years I’ve had a transformation within myself in terms of thinking about things differently. You just see things about food and health and how it relates to the environment. There’s obesity, diabetes, cancer and sickness and the one common factor everyone has is food. Thinking about these things led me to this path.