I don't know anything about omni pro wires other than that I wouldn't use them. you need to use AC Delco wires. If you can't find them, you can use Borg Warner (BWD) wires. I have had good luck with those. Get a good set of wires and go from there. I can't begin to tell you how many times I replaced plug wires with something other than AC Delco or BWD and the problem didn't go away. The guys at Advanced O'Reilly Zone stores don't have a clue! You'd be better off buying the OPPOSITE of what they tell you most of the time!

PS: cam retart at 0

Click to expand...

What do you mean by that? Did you adjust the timing? After 1996 you can't adjust timing without a scantool... Just so we are both on the same page... Input from the knock sensor (among other things) tells the ECM how much to advance or retard the timing. Yes, base timing is 0*, but you can't set the base timing with a timing light. you have to use a scan tool.

I don't know anything about omni pro wires other than that I wouldn't use them. you need to use AC Delco wires. If you can't find them, you can use Borg Warner (BWD) wires. I have had good luck with those. Get a good set of wires and go from there. I can't begin to tell you how many times I replaced plug wires with something other than AC Delco or BWD and the problem didn't go away. The guys at Advanced O'Reilly Zone stores don't have a clue! You'd be better off buying the OPPOSITE of what they tell you most of the time!

What do you mean by that? Did you adjust the timing? After 1996 you can't adjust timing without a scantool... Just so we are both on the same page... Input from the knock sensor (among other things) tells the ECM how much to advance or retard the timing. Yes, base timing is 0*, but you can't set the base timing with a timing light. you have to use a scan tool.

Click to expand...

I have a snapon ethos scan tool on it....from what I have read (I am no expert) when you change the distributor these are the steps:
1. cylinder 1 TDC
2. rotor to spark wire 1
3. bring to operating temp
4. bring engine to >1000 rpm
5. read cam retard position and turn cap until within +/-2 degrees of 0

- - - Updated - - -

I pulled both battery terminal wires and wire brushed them.

This in turn reset the PCM, I drove very easy until operating temperature then I did 5-6 crank and turn offs. I received a P0304 code.

I changed the Camshaft Position Sensor reset PCM and still has code.

The miss is not "as" bad as it was however it is still there.....does not show up on the live data scan tool now. And it seems like it does not have all of the power....well I know it doesn't it bogs down during a power brake instead of turning the tires over.

I let it idle 5 minutes, then cut it off and cranked it a few times then backed out of the garage and drove to the end of the driveway.....where it started missing and the clock flickered a couple of times and reset to 1:00...then the engine sputtered and cut off.

It started right back up but now it idles horribly and I have a couple of codes.....
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor High Input (scan tool reports the engine temp at -40 F)
P0304 Camsahft Position Sensor Problem
P1115 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage

I am headed to pick up a temp sensor now.

- - - Updated - - -

Could it be the PCM?

The PCM in this truck (1996 k1500) has no tags but I have researched out that it should have a PCM with service # 16244210
I have a great running 1997 c3500 with 454 with PCM with service # 16229684

I traced the temp sensor wire and found the PO had either broke the wire or something so he had put in 2 butt connectors....I pulled the pin out of the connector and removed the butt connectors and connected the wire back to the OE connector.