We did the same.....I had my friend helping us with his pickup truck carrying extra things...but we had to drive our rally car. RALLY = Get Together Again....we needed to get to the finish. We carried all tools and parts in rally car. That is the reason why 4-door was popular in rally back then. Yes, we learned a lot.....a mechanic of Team Datsun told me to use Latex glove to protect distributor from water. We put steel wire cable on to keep front tires in place in case tention-rod is "lost". I made my son's 240SX driveable again in 20 minutes when he damaged the front suspension and called me for a help. He was amazed but had no clue how I learned that survival skill.
That's right....nobody was taking picktures back then...we never thought about it....no wonder I only have few pictures.

Installed engine and other parts. Still looking for a side draft carb but I need to do test run so I used stock Hitachi carb and stock fuel pump. It is getting colder here and I cannot do much in my garage.

Has anyone used a radiator of automatic trans for engine oil cooler? Just a thought.....

I am going to Japan next week so, I am going to pick up some 510 parts (plastic/alminum/rubber) I ordered with Nissan. My brother told me that they located fenders in stock somewhere in Eastern Japan so, I hope I can carry them back too.

[quote="PMCS Rally"
Has anyone used a radiator of automatic trans for engine oil cooler? Just a thought.....
[/quote]

Too small and not designed for any internal pressure. If you ever get a chance to cut one open you'll laugh at what you find. Basically it's just a pipe connecting the inlet to the outlet. How can a foot of pipe cool anything? If I had an auto the first thing I would put on is an external trailer towing auto tranny cooler.

Do like Keith and use a condenser from a GM air conditioner. They are built to take the pressure and are huge enough to shed heat even without a fan. (for average use)

"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs

If you have a little time while you are in Japan, give me a call, I would be happy to talk shop a little....080-3579-1051, I am in Atsugi, close to Yokohama.....hopefully be registering the coupe sometime next week....later, Rich

Thanks for info on oil cooler. I did not know it was just a pipe inside the radiator.

Rich,

I will be in Yokohama/Machida/Hamamatsu area during my week staty so I will be sure to give you a ring (I may have to reschedule it to12/12)....my cell will not work there so I have to come up with something....by the way how did you get your coupe windsheild gaskets? A friend of mine is working on his second coupe project but it is on hold due to lack of those gaskets....even aftermarket parts. Good luck in your registration....I heard that the process has been "simplified" these days but still a lot of paperworks.

Cool! just use a green phone! coupe window gaskets are very very rare....I have only seen them on yahoo japan once, and they sold for over 50,000 yen each!! I stopped bidding at 50,000!!!! I will keep a look out though....I just ran across a set of door seals and trunk seal, I will hang on to them.....I only know of a few places to check for parts, and they are really expensive.....but i am meeting more and more 510 guys so I will keep my eyes open....talk later, Rich

Finally the temperature went up above 50 F this weekend so I started wokring on mine.

All original wirings tested and installed and most electric parts were replaced to new ones. Without gas line connected, I tried "dry run" but (as expected) starter does not start. And lower beams stay on. I need to go over the wiring again.

Is there anything electrical I should check when 3-spd column auto is replaced to stock 4-spd trans? All three terminals (+, -, Ign, with wires removed) on starter solenoid have continuity to ground. Is this normal?

NO, there's definitely a problem.
The auto harness has a switch that interrupts the starter lead when not in P or N. So this line needs to be connected permanently, or better yet interrupt the ignition wires in the harness as it goes above the motor, beside the wiper motor, and solder the wires together.
Byron

The switch was on the transmission. You'll need a second person to turn the key to the start position and find the wire that energizes. I believe that once you have found it, there will be an identically colour coded wire in the same harness - connect these two, and you should have power at the starter for the solenoid.

But better yet, remove the whole automatic harness from under the car except the back up switch wires (unless you are putting these on a manual switch anyways) just to remove clutter under the car and in the harness itself – just remember to connect these two wires at some point in order to make the starter solenoid connection.

Three switches (Neutral, 3rd, and Reverse I assume) are on manual trans but only one two pairs of wires (solid black and b/y) and one "kick down" coming from auto trans wire harness. I went through the factory wiring diagram of auto trans but this part was not shown in schematic. I am assuming these wires are for 3rd and Reverse. I need to trace the wiring.

My apologies to fellow Dimers for not responding to PM's for a long time.

I had a heart issue and had a surgery a year ago and finally last week my doctor allowed me to lift more than 3 lbs weight.
I am now free from medication and ready to go back to my 510 project (life is short). Glad to be back....really.