What do you mean by "Im going to experiment with double rear towers next" ?????

The owner of the track I run at, his son won the 17.5 ROAR national SC class. They ran double rear shock towers in the rear. There is a lot of flex with the stock rear tower (Twisting). You have to change a few parts in order to run it but they said it makes a big noticeable difference.

Maybe I missed it if you said so, but are you still running 30weight oil up front? If so, bump up to 35 or even 37.5

Yes I still have the 30/30 like the manual said. My actual build is per the manual 100% with the rear shocks to the front of the tower, the Grey front springs and sway bar, rear springs are from the kit. I have my ESC and receiver on center and set as far back as I could allowing the battery to go full forward if needed (which I am running as far back as I can) I am running a Fantom 13.5 on Raw speed tires. My first time out I did not have the Brass C block and only added 14g of stick on weight and it seemed to help how it jumped. So now the only thing I changed is remove the stick on weights and added the brass 23g weight. I was running without a chassis protector and after looking at the chassis there was no evidence of excessive tail slap on the jumps. the chassis was really clean I was surprised. I only had a couple practice times, 2 heats and the main so not a lot of time on it so far and I really liked it the more I drove it steering was amazing in and out and like I said other than the jumping nose down thing I was really happy. SO I might go ahead and change the oils as suggested what would be good for the rears?

Yes I still have the 30/30 like the manual said. My actual build is per the manual 100% with the rear shocks to the front of the tower, the Grey front springs and sway bar, rear springs are from the kit. I have my ESC and receiver on center and set as far back as I could allowing the battery to go full forward if needed (which I am running as far back as I can) I am running a Fantom 13.5 on Raw speed tires. My first time out I did not have the Brass C block and only added 14g of stick on weight and it seemed to help how it jumped. So now the only thing I changed is remove the stick on weights and added the brass 23g weight. I was running without a chassis protector and after looking at the chassis there was no evidence of excessive tail slap on the jumps. the chassis was really clean I was surprised. I only had a couple practice times, 2 heats and the main so not a lot of time on it so far and I really liked it the more I drove it steering was amazing in and out and like I said other than the jumping nose down thing I was really happy. SO I might go ahead and change the oils as suggested what would be good for the rears?

Ok try running 1.6 piston up front with 35 or 37.5 oil and the shock on the outer hole on the arm. Run 1.7 piston and 30 weight oil in the rear with the stock location. This should help with your issues. Im not running any added weight to my truck, except for the 36gr electronics tray weight and I have zero nose diving issues in the air. Kind of sounds like the front shocks are too light and is blowing through the stroke on the face of the jumps cause it to nose dive.

FYI - The front bumper holds up incredibly better if you utilize two longer screws in the front loading position. 10mm screws leave way too much flex in that piece and it ultimately crushes downward and sags, which in turn causes the lower part of the front bumper to bow. I had some 16mm screws around and they are about the perfect length; you could maybe even go 18mm... a 20mm screw might be too long but I haven't tried that size. The longer screws leave just a touch of give but the piece won't crush in and down any longer.

I'm pretty new to SC still and with little tweaking, I've got my SC6.1 in a great starting point that is easy to drive, turns and jumps well. Box setup with gray front springs, white rear springs, and front sway bar.

FYI - The front bumper holds up incredibly better if you utilize two longer screws in the front loading position. 10mm screws leave way too much flex in that piece and it ultimately crushes downward and sags, which in turn causes the lower part of the front bumper to bow. I had some 16mm screws around and they are about the perfect length; you could maybe even go 18mm... a 20mm screw might be too long but I haven't tried that size. The longer screws leave just a touch of give but the piece won't crush in and down any longer.

I'm pretty new to SC still and with little tweaking, I've got my SC6.1 in a great starting point that is easy to drive, turns and jumps well. Box setup with gray front springs, white rear springs, and front sway bar.

Very nice find...

Yeah those connecting points do buckle right where the short screw ends it's support.

The owner of the track I run at, his son won the 17.5 ROAR national SC class. They ran double rear shock towers in the rear. There is a lot of flex with the stock rear tower (Twisting). You have to change a few parts in order to run it but they said it makes a big noticeable difference.