88 ranger 2.9L manual. Wont go into gear when running.brand new flywheel,clutch,slave cylinder,mastercylinder,clutch line,throwout bearing.everything is brand new and there is no air in the line when I put it into.a clear bottle.I have gravity bleed it tjru 4 or 5 resi full and bleed it by pumping the pedal.I have good clutch pedal just wont go into gear when running.I can put it in gear when not running and try to start it and it try to drive

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A mechanical 'breaking noise' doesn't sound good. It's hard to diagnose a problem online without being there to see/hear the vehicle. But .. it may be that your clutch pressure plate has broken/ release/throwout bearing has broken?

It's difficult to see why the master cylinder should leak - unless it was incorrectly fitted in the first place?

Just to check ... The master cylinder is in the engine bay/compartment and is where you top up with clutch fluid. When a master cylinder fails it usually results in no pressure at the clutch pedal, not a leak.

The clutch slave cylinder is the one that does all the work. When you press the pedal hydraulic pressure is sent from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder - which then pushes the release/throwout bearing against the clutch pressure plate and 'disconnects' the driven plate .. allowing you to change gear.

The slave cylinder is the one that does all the hard work - it is located somewhere where engine and gearbox mate together, usually at the bottom right/left. It's usually the one that fails/leaks. It's quite easy to replace..

I don't think it is anything to do with reverse gear. It's more to do with the clutch pedal being depressed - and, I would suspect - something has failed.

Basically, a clutch is 3 parts. There's the 'pressure plate' which bolts onto your flywheel. The pressure plate is a 'spring'. You depress the clutch pedal and the release/throwout bearing presses onto the centre of the pressure plate causing the 'fingers' - the springs - to bend back and take pressure off the driven plate - which is the link - the drive - between engine and gearbox.

If you have a leak your clutch will not work. This causes a 'grinding/crashing' noise when you try to change gear. The first thing you should do is check where the leak is coming from and do something about it.

The 'noise' that you mention may be due to the fact that the gears are 'grinding' as they try to mesh together without the use of the clutch.

The first thing you should do is check why there's a leak. It's difficult to see why a new master cylinder is leaking unless it was incorrectly fitted and damaged (pipes incorrectly connected..).

If it's the slave cylinder that is leaking - replace it. Easy job.

If Master cylinder and slave cylinder are ok - you have to look at your clutch unit. A clutch is always replaced with 3 parts ... throwout bearing/pressure plate and driven disk.

First of all I think I should say that clutches do not make grinding noises - but transmission gears do.However, a clutch that is not disengaging properly can make the gears grind when trying to shift from one gear to the next. Also a common source of noise is the clutch throwout bearing. This will make a "grinding" or "growling" noise any time the clutch pedal is depressed. In either of these cases, the only solution is to replace the clutch, throwout bearing, pressure plate and pilot bushing. These all usually come in a clutch kit. If you have an hydraulic clutch with an internal slave cylinder it is recommended to replace the slave cylinder as well and also the flywheel on on vehicles. I'm sorry I cannot be more specific because you did not mention what type of vehicle we are talking about here.

the most likely reason is either the clutch master cyl. needs to be replaced.or the.slave cyl. its mounted down on the transmation under the hood find the resivore for the clutch. check the fluid level.if its low , fill it back up , and look for signs of a leakyou will probally have to bleed out all of the air from the system.its done almost the same way as bleeding the brakes. Good Luck.

did you bleed the slave cylinder? On the slave cylinder there should be a bleeder screw just like a brake caliper, perform the bleed procedure just like a brake, pump clutch and open slave bleeder, repeat untill all air is no longer noticed. keep master filled with fluid and top off when completed

fill the reservoir for the clutch slave cylinder. No with the engine OFF pump the clutch 25 times. Yes 25 times. Now start the engine and see if it shifts. If it does you need a new slave cylinder, clutch, pressure plate, & throwout bearing as well. Everything is replaced upon dismantling for you do now want to do it again within a few months later. Also have the flywheel machined smooth if its still any good

Manual transmissions do not slip ie. when the gears mesh, there is no slip unless they strip out and make an awful noise and will not pull henceforth.

You probably still have a slipping clutch plate against the flywheel. You need to adjust the clutch petal linkage shaft to allow the pressure plate to be release from the thrust bearing, ie shorten the shaft length.. If you and most likely you do just have the clutch release slave cylinder that releases the clutch when you apply the petal. You need to bleed the slave cylinder of any excess fluid or air that may have entered the line if you opened it at any point. You need to bleed it as you would a break cylinder and this should fix ya.good luck.good luck