I saw this on the California trailer site. Not sure if this is the same pivot mounting that MC uses but it might be a better option as you would have to reuse any of the plates. If it doesn't match up all you would need to have done would be to cut off the main tube bracket and weld on the new one.

Apparently, the bolt pattern of the UFP hinge is not the same as the Reliable, that's why the easiest fix seems to be to cut the Reliable actuator away from the hinge assembly and weld in a UFP outer member (this way you only have to take the actuator section to your local trailer shop to be painted). Alternatively, as stated above, cut away the entire thing, including hinge assembly, and weld on the UFP assembly from caltrailerworks (then drag the entire boat down to the shop to get the new parts painted). Also, I think the one from caltrailerworks is longer which could potentially cause a problem if your safety cables aren't long enough - or maybe they will fabricate it to what ever length you need to match your original?
Again, be sure to get the correct inner member for your particular set-up.

Yes, they will custom make it any length you want for the same price. I chose 20" from center of ball to hitch pivot point.

An update on the brake overhaul on my trailer. I just put in an order for the items listed below from CalTrailer. If I'm going to replace the actuator and the calipers, I might as well go ahead and replace the lines to ensure there's no corrosion material left to foul up the brakes in the future. I'm going to turn the rotors. As soon as these parts come in I'm going to have my local weld shop fab the new housing to the existing hinge-piece.

Something else I decided to do while I'm working on the trailer is to replace the trailer pads located on the fenders. One had fallen off and the others were cracking badly. I decided to replace them with what Sk8solomon had done, all-brite aluminum diamond plate. I took the old pads in and they're cutting them using a flowjet. Material and labor is going to run me about $150. I intend to pop-rivit them to the fenders rather than glue them on.

Well today I was able to install the Kodiak 225 calipers, new brake hoses, and run and bend the new steel brake lines. I do not have the actuator housing back from the weld shop to finish up, but it's getting closer.

Finally was able to finish the brake overhaul last night. I received the new outer housing and had a weld shop fabricate this old swing points to the housing. I put a fresh coat of paint on it and while it was drying I secured the new brake lines to the frame with rubber line fasteners. Everything fit together as if it were a new Reliable replacement. Filled chamber with DOT3 fluid and going to let gravity do its thing over the weekend. Will finish bleeding the lines Sunday night and my plan is to take it out Monday evening for the 2013 maiden voyage.

Spent about $600 total on the trailer over winter; including new diamond plate skid pads, brake job, new bunks and carpet. Put a fresh coat of wax on the boat and trailer and ready to go.