I have the perfect concept for a Palo Alto burger joint. It would serve Domaine Chandon sparkling wine from Napa Valley and pinot noir from France, plus a wicked cappuccino in addition to the usual sodas and milkshakes, and all of its burgers would be made from hormone- and antibiotic-free meat, Niman Ranch of course.

Oh, wait, the place already exists on a prime stretch of University Avenue: the SliderBar Cafe. D’oh!

SliderBar’s ambience is all about dark wood paneling, high ceilings, large banners on the wall that promote the natural ingredients and flat-screen TVs behind the bar tuned to both ESPN and CNBC. Welcome to Palo Alto.

If you’re going to have a successful burger joint, you’d better make a good burger, and SliderBar’s American Classic ($2.99 for one, $33 for a dozen) is a solid two bite mini-burger on a soft white bun — correction, a soft ARTISAN white bun — with a thick slice of very red, very juicy Roma tomato, a single slice of lettuce (I’m not sure if it was Romaine or an artisan baby lettuce, but it definitely wasn’t iceberg), a pickle slice and just the right amount of mayo.

For all of my gentle mocking, the cooks at SliderBar know how to grill a burger. It was a perfect medium: light pink on the inside and juicy, but not so juicy as to make those who like their meat well-cooked queasy. It was seasoned just right: You could taste the salt and pepper, but it didn’t overwhelm the beef flavor.

Their chicken sliders come in three varieties: Classic Chicken ($3.29 for one), California Chicken ($3.29 for one) and Serrano Chili Southwestern ($3.99 for one). I tried the California Chicken and loved the multigrain bun it came on. It was super soft, not the hard tack that some multigrain breads taste like. The advertised garlic and ginger flavors didn’t come out in the ground chicken patty; instead it was the chipotle sauce that dominated, but it was a nice sauce with just the right amount of lingering heat.

I also had a very tasty Italian Sausage Slider Dog ($4.99), which was noticeably bigger than slider size, with a satisfying crunch to its skin and a mild Italian spice that left me wanting to order a second round.

My companion tried the Classic American Breakfast Slider ($2.49), which you can get all day. She said it was tasty overall, but she was a little disappointed that there were only three tiny pieces of bacon on it.

SliderBar’s side orders really shined.

The fries are winners. They have traditional fries, of the matchstick variety ($1.99), and garlic or sweet potato fries (both $2.89). The traditional fries were perfectly cooked, crispy on the outside and pillowy inside with a smooth potato flavor. The sweet potato fries came with a chili ranch sauce that was good in that “I just kept putting one fry after another in my mouth and before I knew it, the whole order was gone” kind of way.

The Caesar salad ($4.49 for a side, $7.99 entree) had a great garlicky dressing, some of the best looking romaine lettuce I’ve ever seen, plenty of Parmesan cheese on top (shaved, not grated, of course) and a good amount of crunchy, toasty croutons.

The downside to SliderBar is their milkshakes. They don’t have them. They’re on the menu, but every time I went, I was told the freezer was broken and they didn’t have shakes or anything that needed ice cream. Even in Palo Alto, a burger joint needs to be serving milkshakes.

That won’t keep me from going back, though. The restaurant has good sliders and good fries, and I can always order a beer or some of that French pinot noir.

Hours: 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday, closing at 11 p.m. Thursday through SaturdayTypes of food: Sliders, soups and saladsAverage meal price: $10 to $12 a person, more if you get beer or wineGood choices: The American Classic slider, Caesar salad, both kinds of friesNot recommended: Trying to get a milkshake or anything with ice creamAttitude: Friendly but hurried at dinner, a little distracted at lunchAmenities: Multiple TVs tuned to sports, a beer and wine barVegetarian options: MultipleDrinks: The usual, plus beer, wine, coffee drinks and Italian sodasEat in car: PossiblyNext-day edibility: Not so muchWho goes there: A cross-section of Palo Alto’s populationCredit cards: All major onesParking: There are public lots scattered throughout downtown Palo AltoRestaurant reviews are conducted anonymously. The Mercury News pays for all meals.