Long, skinny Tonolo is the stuff of local legend, a fact confirmed by the never-ending queue of customers. Ditch packaged B&B crossiants for flaky apfelstrudel (apple pastry), velvety bignè al zabaione (marsala cream pastry) and oozing pain au chocolat (chocolate croissants). Devour one at the bar with a bracing espresso, then bag another for the road.