Justin,
1. Sounds like your compression is fine. If you are not running
valve cover breathers (instead of PCV) you will notice smoke coming
from the breathers. On warm days the smoke is visible from the
cab while sitting at a traffic light. However, if you're pushing
oil out from the breathers, you have an oil-control problem (but,
your compression check looked OK, so I doubt that's a problem).

2. Gas on plugs four and eight? Take the truck for a run, let it
sit for a while (to cool. Warm plugs burn fingers), and pull each
plug. What do they look like? If they look good, I wouldn't
worry. If they're gassy, you're carb may be leaking down when it
sits. Let us know.

3. Oil pressure? Well, I have a mechanical gauge too, and I rarely
see oil in the little plastic tube. Don't worry about that, as long
as the gauge is working. The general rule is that you want 10 PSI for every
1,000 RPMs when the engine is warm (e.g., at 2,000 RPMs would want at
least 20 PSI, etc.). Of course, oil pressure is higher when colder.
When the engine is warm, what is your pressure at idle? If you hold it at
1,000 RPM? Hold it at 2,000? 3,000? Let us know and we'll get a better
picture of your possible problem.
Hmmm. You wrote:
>When I rev it up to about 3000 rpm's the pressure went up to around
>50 psi and then right back down to 25 or below. It idles below 25
>psi. If I rev it up after that point I will barely get above 25 psi.
Well, if you're revving the engine up to (say) 3,000 RPM, and the oil pressure
is "slow" getting to 30 PSI (or, doesn't even get there), my advice is
to not rev up to 3,000 RPM (I know, I sound like a wise-guy). Let me fire
a bunch of suggestions at ya.
1. Change the oil and filer. I get better pressure with fresh oil.
2. Check your oil level. Low oil level affects oil pressure and sometimes
leads to oil starvation problems (don't ask how I know).
3. Is your engine clean inside? If you have a lot of gunk inside, maybe
one of your oil drain holes (on top of the head) is plugged, and oil is
pooling in the head (thus leading to oil starvation when running at higher
RPMS, but after a while the oil drains back down and makes you think you
have enough oil).
4. Maybe the oil pump pick-up screen is clogged w/ gunk.
5. Maybe oil pump and/or main bearings are shot (thus, low oil pressure).

Before you have a coronary, check you oil level, and let me know what your
pressure looks like at various RPMs. We'll see what we can figure out.

Your right. I have the same plastic housing and in fact after your emails
on the subject I went out an wiggled my steering shaft (4wd) and noticed
that the bearing and ujoints are all loose. So it looks like I need to do
the column rebuild and steering linkage rebuilt that has been mentioned
earlier.

Also certain broncos have that plastic housing at the end of the column with
the bearing. I believe that piece is in the wildhorses catalog if you need
it. I think Tony gave an alternative to the plastic housing. It is pretty
hoky.

>So how do you know what your vehicle originally had? Unless you happen to
>have the original spec sheet pasted on the bottom of the original seat, how
>are you to know if you are supposed to have cats or not? Does it simply go
>by what that truck was originally registered and what kind of motor was in
>it?

It is probably based on the manufacturers specs as to what emissions the
vehicle originally came equipped with. So I doubt that they would be able
to say .."Oh your truck was originally equipped with CA emissions controls,
so you'll have to have more cats and such than your buddy with the same
truck that was sold in GA originally" They probably have certain years
written down in the book, so that before a certain year you only need A ...
before this other year you need A and B ... etc. For instance seat belts
aren't required on vehicles built before '62. Why ? because 90% of cars
built before that didn't have em.

>What is the limit on modifications you can make to a vehicle before it's no
>longer considered what the registration says it is?
>
When the guy put my truck together, he had to re-register the truck as a 73
because that was what year the cab was. So I have to follow 73 emissions
(which here is a PCV valve and exhaust ending at the rear axle I think).
Even though its a 74 motor and such with an EGR system originally.

Anyway that's how things look on this side of the fence. No one's ever
stopped me to check it in the 5 years I've owned it, so I'm not real
worried about it. But its an interesting discussion. I think the eventual
answer is going to be that you need to check with the local DMV (or DOT I
guess, depends on the state what they call it), and find out what the rules
in your area are, then just factor in some laziness on the inspectors part
and you should have a good idea what you can "get by with"

>I'm wondering how many on the list think that warming the truck up before
>driving it is essential to the longevity of the engine? I believe this
>myself, and I'm wondering who else does or doesn't. I try to warm mine up
>for 10 minutes or so before driving it, even in summer.
>
As soon as it idles on its own (sometimes before), its rolling. Had a
professor who taught Tractor Power (don't laugh CJ) tell us the best thing
for an engine is once it will idle on its own to get it under a light load
so it will stabilize. I'll have to dig up the P-V (that's pressure-volume)
diagrams that we took of a motor, it is really much cleaner running with a
light load on it. In the winter I usually let it run for an extra minute
or two, just to be sure all the fluids are flowing in the tranny too
(automatic). Seems like everyone around here likes to let them warm up, I
guess I'm just too impatient when I hear that V8 rumble I have to get going
... :)

Hey guys,
I just subscribed and thought I'd introduce myself. I live in
Denton, just north of Dallas. I drive a 1979 F100 Custom LWB(anyone know
what Custom denotes?) with a 351M/3speed auto. The truck is 2wd but is
used like a 4wd. It sits on 31x10.5 ATs right now. It shows 73k miles
but it could be 173 or 273 for all I know. The drivetrain is totally
stock and original. It runs like a top and I commute 400 miles a week at
70-75mph with it. To my knowledge it has never had a rebuild. The only
problems I have with the truck right now are in the front end. There is
some major steering slop in the truck. A friend says on his 76 F250 that
was always caused by the steering box. But another friend of mine had
the truck on a lift a while back and said that the bushings in the
steering assy (drag ling etc) were fried. Any suggestions on where to
start? This and the bad front shocks make for a scarry combo on the
highways!

My other question is concerning lift. How hard (read expensive) is it to
lift the front end of these trucks? I would like mine to sit level like
a 250 or a 4x4. This is mainly so that I can put a 33" tire under it.
The truck does very well off road for having an open diff and I often
have to pull out other trucks. I tell them I have Ford-Wheel-Drive.
Really pisses 'em off. Thanks in advance.

>>Someone's in a real good mood,
What did you do John, whip a few of those "other brand trucks"? I guess that
fancy lazer eye gives you an edge in seeing that green light before the
competition.

My guess is you've been running the motor with the garage door closed again.
Bryan Kirking

Even better. I got to drive my truck all of the way to Austin and back (180
miles round trip for you non-Texans) last Tuesday. I don't get him on the
road for that type of trip very often. I got to talk to John Strauss on the
phone. We wanted to meet, but Austin is a big place compared to Killeen.
The weather is beautiful, the truck is running good, SWMBO is smiling at
me................

>> late model Grand Am or Grand Prix that has
>some pretty neat looking lights in the rear plastic bumper in addition to
>the backup lights.
Really ? I've seen these but always thought they were backup lamps ...
when do they come on ? Being clear they can only come on when the vehicle
is moving backwards though right ?

I am pretty sure that they are additional backup lights. With today's
design of a low pointy nose and big tall rear on a lot of cars it is almost
impossible to see out the back. We truck folks are used to this, but car
folk, especially short ones, have a real hard time not running over and
into things when going backwards. Several of these type cars have unusual
backup light configurations. Corvettes have the same lamp assembly used in
cornering lights in the front fenders mounted in the rear fenders as backup
lights.

In Texas (and I assume everywhere else) you can only show a white light to
the rear when the vehicle is moving backwards. The license plate light is
supposed to be shielded so that it does noy show rearward. Technichally,
people who turn on their dome light which turns on their cargo light while
going down the road forward are breaking the law. Some cops will nail you
if your taillight lense is cracked and showing just a wee bit of white.
Yes, Ox, we have ## %$# (substitute your favorite descriptive expletive
here) down here, too.

>>What is the limit on modifications you can make to a vehicle before it's no
longer considered what the registration says it is?

David,

My theory is if you can buy insurance and license plates, it will pass
inspection, and you don't get stopped or when you do get stopped the
registration papers don't raise an eyebrow, then anything goes. In Texas
you take all of the papers to the tax office when you apply for a title. If
something is unacceptable, DPS will let you know and give you opportunity
to remedy the deficiency. I once got a clear title on a 67 Caddy
convertible that everyone said I would never be able to title. It took
about 18 months to do all of the paper work and it was about 50 pages, but
it worked for DPS without a hitch.

I have wanted to swap my York compressor on my 79 to an A6 compressor. The
problem I have run into is brackets and hose fittings. Both can be
overcome. I still have not convinced myself that the waterpump casting is
the same. In your case, you need to examine the cooling capabilty of your
later model compressor. Examine the condensor and evaporator to see if they
are similar between both trucks. Next, examine the cooling unit and its
hoses for similarities. The later model air conditioning systems tend to
have smaller pumps (more energy efficient, use less gas, blah blah). The 78
system may overwork the smaller 84 compressor. OTOH, it may work very well.

>>I'm wondering how many on the list think that warming the truck up before
driving it is essential to the longevity of the engine? I believe this
myself, and I'm wondering who else does or doesn't. I try to warm mine up
for 10 minutes or so before driving it, even in summer.

Just wondering.

Drew Beatty

Sounds like Thom is on the right track. IM not so HO, warmup should vary
with the outside air temp. A lot of it depends on whether you are running
the proper oil for the season. My uncle the mechanic always said it was
more important to warmup an auto tranny than an engine. In my climate, I
warmup a minimum amount before I drive off. Usually this is about as long
as it takes me to hook the seatbelt and adjust the radio. If the temp is
near or below freezing, I usually warmup until the engine begins to rev to
about 2.5K. My neighbor warms his VWs up for what seems like an eternity
every morning regardless, then starts his 60 mile commute. I think he over
does it. In the past ten years he has had no more and no less problems than
me when mileage driven is taken into account. After you start moving, you
should not do any hard take offs etc. until the diff, transfer case, etc.
get circulating. How do you know you didn't warmup enough? When you start
too early and break something.

> The only piece that didn't come off my '78 F100 was the cab - I could
> easily buy a beater '71 with a good cab, drop the cab and
VIN number onto
> my 78 and register it as the 71. Heck, it wouldn't have
to be an
> F100...didn't the F150's have looser emission regulations
when they first
> came out?

Here in Canada emissions testing isnt required :-)

I cant figure out how they decided which trucks were exempt and which
were'nt. I have an '85 f-150 supercab GVW 6250 lbs 300/6cyl.. it has no
emissions controls at all. It even has the large filler pipe so you
could put leaded fuel in it. i think they quit selling leaded gas here
in 1984 though :-) OTOH, my buddy had an '85 4wd, GVW 6250lbs same
engine, but that truck had the whole 9 yards of emissions junk..

A few years ago there was a quite a trade in selling canadian VIN's from
junked or wrecked vehicles, although i don't think they do it to get
around emissions regulations.......

>I have wanted to swap my York compressor on my 79 to an A6 compressor. The
>problem I have run into is brackets and hose fittings. Both can be
>overcome. I still have not convinced myself that the waterpump casting is
>the same. In your case, you need to examine the cooling capabilty of your
>later model compressor. Examine the condensor and evaporator to see if they
>are similar between both trucks. Next, examine the cooling unit and its
>hoses for similarities. The later model air conditioning systems tend to
>have smaller pumps (more energy efficient, use less gas, blah blah). The 78
>system may overwork the smaller 84 compressor. OTOH, it may work very well.
>
Guess I was always under the impression that the newer pumps were just more
efficient, that's why they were all switched ... love those axial pumps
... anyone use an A9 on their system's that might be the way to go ?

lift the front end of these trucks? I would like mine to sit level like
a 250 or a 4x4 >>

We lifted my brothers 84 F-150 by using 80 E-250 springs, sat the truck right
up, nice and level. Dont get carried away with lift, cuz you will throw the
camber to far out of alignment, and require you bend your I-Beams to fix it.

Well I decided to retrieve Tweety last night. Got dads 4x4, a chian, and a
few "volunteers" and went. Get this, tranny decided to work! Drove it the
rest of the way into town without a problem. Now not listening to my dad I
decided to continue with the swap anyways, figuring that the trucks desire to
completely resist rolling when in drive wasnt in my head. Talk about fun,
took me 4 hours to get it out. Items removed to get it out include the
following:Linkage, starter, speedo cable, coolant lines, 2 cross members,
exhaust, drive shafts, and a few others. Now aside from the fluid in the
tranny coming out like a beautiful Metallic Maroon like youd find on a town
car, everything seemed normal. Then I yanked on the torque converter, and the
small input shaft came with it.

Do you think my Torque Converter is ok? I used the broken input shaft as a
handle and spun everything, no wobble, no grinding or anything.

Well I had run out of daylight, but my next question is, How do I flush the
cooling side of the garbage? I used an air compressor and blew out all the
old fluid, is there anything else I should do?

Confession time - until last weekend, I'd never changed the oil on my '69 F250
w/ 360 myself. I found that both the oil pan drain plug and the oil filter,
while easily accessible, were located over a frame cross member. It was nearly
impossible to keep the oil from flowing onto the frame.

Ugh. Not exactly good for keeping the frame clean.

Has anyone installed a oil pan drain valve w/ a hose connection on it? I was
thinking that a hose running from the valve would easily clear the cross
member, resulting in clearer oil changes. What about oil filter relocation
kits? Leakage nightmares?

Shane
Start with the known. Replace the shocks and drag link. Then try to adjust
the gear box using the screw adjustment on top of the gear box.

Larry

At 07:06 AM 2/23/99 PST, you wrote:
>Hey guys,
> I just subscribed and thought I'd introduce myself. I live in
>Denton, just north of Dallas. I drive a 1979 F100 Custom LWB(anyone know
>what Custom denotes?) with a 351M/3speed auto. The truck is 2wd but is
>used like a 4wd. It sits on 31x10.5 ATs right now. It shows 73k miles
>but it could be 173 or 273 for all I know. The drivetrain is totally
>stock and original. It runs like a top and I commute 400 miles a week at
>70-75mph with it. To my knowledge it has never had a rebuild. The only
>problems I have with the truck right now are in the front end. There is
>some major steering slop in the truck. A friend says on his 76 F250 that
>was always caused by the steering box. But another friend of mine had
>the truck on a lift a while back and said that the bushings in the
>steering assy (drag ling etc) were fried. Any suggestions on where to
>start? This and the bad front shocks make for a scarry combo on the
>highways!
>
>My other question is concerning lift. How hard (read expensive) is it to
>lift the front end of these trucks? I would like mine to sit level like
>a 250 or a 4x4. This is mainly so that I can put a 33" tire under it.
>The truck does very well off road for having an open diff and I often
>have to pull out other trucks. I tell them I have Ford-Wheel-Drive.
>Really pisses 'em off. Thanks in advance.
>
>Later,
>Shane
>
>
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

If anyone knows of a source for OEM replacement sending units to fit a
74 F-350 Super Camper Special please e-mail me at dacoady hotmail.com.
I need the unit for the rear tank and would like to find one that is
calibrated to the original guage, as opposed to an aftermarket generic
unit.

JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 2/23/99 7:20:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> cb1_400 hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> lift the front end of these trucks? I would like mine to sit level like
> a 250 or a 4x4 >>
>
> We lifted my brothers 84 F-150 by using 80 E-250 springs, sat the truck right
> up, nice and level. Dont get carried away with lift, cuz you will throw the
> camber to far out of alignment, and require you bend your I-Beams to fix it.

You don't have to bend anything to align TTB for small lifts. You can
use upper ball joint camber/caster bushings, up to 3 degrees and/or
spindle plates up to 2 degrees.

>Fellow listoids,
>
>Confession time - until last weekend, I'd never changed the oil on my '69
F250
>w/ 360 myself. I found that both the oil pan drain plug and the oil
filter,
>while easily accessible, were located over a frame cross member. It was
nearly
>impossible to keep the oil from flowing onto the frame.

I have a similar problem. GO-JO & Paper Towels works for me }:) Try cutting
the side off an empty oil container and sliding under the filter to catch
spills.
Smeck
>

If anyone knows of a source for OEM replacement sending units to fit a
74 F-350 Super Camper Special please e-mail me at dacoady hotmail.com.
I need the unit for the rear tank and would like to find one that is
calibrated to the original guage, as opposed to an aftermarket generic
unit.

>If anyone knows of a source for OEM replacement sending units to fit a
>74 F-350 Super Camper Special please e-mail me at dacoady hotmail.com.
>I need the unit for the rear tank and would like to find one that is
>calibrated to the original guage, as opposed to an aftermarket generic
>unit.
I just replaced (behind the axle tank) the one in my 79 F100. The Ford P/N
was D7TZ-9275-D. It cost about $80.
Smeck
P.S. You can probably fix the one you have. Check the element with an
ohmmeter first and see if it's ok. If the float has sprung a leak, that can
be repaired easily. A really small hole needs to be enlarged slightly so you
can shake the gas out. Anyway, let it dry overnite and patch with J-B Weld
or solder. Buy something else with the money u saved ;^))

>
> lift the front end of these trucks? I would like mine to sit level like
> a 250 or a 4x4 >>
>
Funny how someone mentions something, then not too long after it you run
into a similar topic. For lifting a 2wd check out :

They claim they only go back to 80, but they should have the same
principles for the pre 80 since they're all twin I beam ... I could be
off, but I bet they'll at least know who to talk to if they can't help you
out directly.

>I found that both the oil pan drain plug and the oil filter,
>while easily accessible, were located over a frame cross member. It was
>nearly
>impossible to keep the oil from flowing onto the frame.

I learned this trick from this list. Use an old piece of cardboard and shape it into
a V. Place it under your drain plug and let it funnel the old oil into the appropriate
place. Also works for the filter.

Another thing you can try although I don't have as good a luck, is use a plastic
bread bag/newspaper bag and fit it over the filter. Then as the filter unscrews,
just let it fall into the bag.

This is one of those heads ups. I made a dumb mistake, and thought I would
bring it up, even if it makes me look like an idiot.
I had the rear drive shaft in my 1979 Bronco rebuilt about 10 years ago for
a drive shaft prob, and back then I didnt know anything, and now, I know
more, but apparently not enough. I never greased the dang thing in 10
years, and it ripped the side out of the velocity joint and almost dropped
the drive shaft on the highway at 70mph. SCARY. So, everybody go out,
grease your driveshafts while you are thinking about it.

"Will all tanks, '73-'79, fit? I deal mostly
with the '67-'72 and am not that familiar with the other years."
No. the frame rails are closer together on the 73-76 frame rails.
The large 78-9 Bronco gas tank won't fit a 73-6 either.
JCW has tanks for about $150,don't know if they are any good
tho.
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

Racer Walsh carries .030 pistons and 400 rods for the 351W $280 for the
KB hyperneumatics(sp) or $540 TRWs and $260 for the rods! All you need
is a bored 351!
Chris
94 Lightning #351
NLOC#238
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

Check out this link maybe save someone some money or heartaches
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.alternativeauto.com/351w_svo_block.html
The 302 block flexes when you start stroking them as you will see at the
website. The blocks are weak...more so for late model blocks!
This alone we persuade me away from a 302 if I was debating which way to
go.
Just thought someone may be interested
Chris
94 Lightning #381
NLOC #238
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

>The 302 block flexes when you start stroking them as you will see at the
>website. The blocks are weak...more so for late model blocks!
>This alone we persuade me away from a 302 if I was debating which way to
>go.
>Just thought someone may be interested

Thanks for reminding me, it seems like this was the whole reason Ford did a
different block for the 351W in 69. Can't remember where I read that, but
it seems like I saw it somewhere.

Miska, Richard L (Rick) wrote:
>
> Ladies and Gentlemen,
>
> This is one of those heads ups. I made a dumb mistake, and thought I would
> bring it up, even if it makes me look like an idiot.
> I had the rear drive shaft in my 1979 Bronco rebuilt about 10 years ago for
> a drive shaft prob, and back then I didnt know anything, and now, I know
> more, but apparently not enough. I never greased the dang thing in 10
> years, and it ripped the side out of the velocity joint and almost dropped
> the drive shaft on the highway at 70mph. SCARY. So, everybody go out,
> grease your driveshafts while you are thinking about it.
>
> This has been a public service message from Rick at Idiot INC.
>

Drew wrote:
>I'm wondering how many on the list think that warming the truck up before
>driving it is essential to the longevity of the engine? I believe this
>myself, and I'm wondering who else does or doesn't. I try to warm mine up
>for 10 minutes or so before driving it, even in summer.

I used to be one of the "long warmup" crowd, but my mind was changed
long ago by an old ex-railroad mechanic I worked with. He claimed
that to minimize wear, you wanted to warm it up as quickly as possible,
and it will warm up much faster under moderate load. He even let me look
thru some copies of railroad studies on "Gas engine longevity" and
one of the recomendations was for quick warmup under moderate loads
for equipment when possible.

It can take a long time for an FE to come up to temperature just sitting
idling on a cold day, and if you've got the heater cranked up with the
blower on high, you're pulling enough heat out of the cooling system
that it could take a very long time indeed...

My technique for warmup is to start it and let it run at a fast idle
(~1200RPM) for about a minute or two. That should be plenty of time to get
oil circulated to all the moving parts. A nice fast idle helps make
sure enough oil gets to the cam/lifters right away.
after it's run for a minute or so I get it in gear and drive *gently*
away... Keep the RPM's moderate, and don't open the secondaries on the
4-bbl. Be nice to it for 5 minutes or so until the temp gauge get's into
the lower end of the normal range. On a chilly morning, my FE takes about
5-7 minutes to get to "normal" temps if I drive it. If it sit's idling
in the driveway warming up it takes at least 2-3 times that long to get
up to temp. I think letting it have a minute or 2 to get oil circulated,
then putting it under light/moderate load is the best way to go to minimize
startup wear.

>From: "Michael Masse"
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351c heads on 351w
>
>Other then the compression ratio on the very
>early 70's Cleveland heads, is there any
>difference between Cleveland 2V and M block
>heads? I guess what I'm asking, is can you use
>M block heads for this swap?

Yo Mike:

The 351C 2V heads and M-block heads are virtually identical. According to
some references, the 351C 2V heads have slightly smaller combustion
chambers, but the purported difference is so small it is w/in the variation
caused by manufacturing tolerances.

Isn't Metaphorisis kind of like Analogitis, an English teacher's disease?
I once knew a philosopher w/ a bad case of syllogism, but he was a logical
positivist anyway and besides, in some circles, philosophy itself is
considered a mental illness.

BTW, working on Ford trucks is a cure for all these conditions (FTE
content?)

I opened up that plastic housing and inside is the exact same bearing
as the upper, problem is, once you open that plastic thing, you can not
close it back up. You have to ruin it so open it. I think most of my
play was coming from the plastic housing moving aorund in the tube. A
horrible desgn :-(

I ordered a bearing that I hope will fit in the end and eliminate the
lower plastic setup. I'll have it tomorrow, so I'll know then.

Thanks for the info! I'm scavanging a few bone yards and have found a '78
or '79 but didn't know what the little nuances are between them and didn't
want to buy the wrong tank to find out it wouldn't fit.

>"Will all tanks, '73-'79, fit? I deal mostly
>with the '67-'72 and am not that familiar with the other years."
> No. the frame rails are closer together on the 73-76 frame rails.
>The large 78-9 Bronco gas tank won't fit a 73-6 either.
>JCW has tanks for about $150,don't know if they are any good
>tho.
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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