Estancia Las Viboras

A working estancia in the heart of Argentina’s southern pampas that’s open to the public but avoids touristy gimmicks. Lavish barbecues, amazing horserides, acres of open space and good birdlife – and charming hosts – make any stay memorable. The cosy countrified bedrooms are in keeping with the authentic experience.

Location

8/10

Las Viboras is the head-house for almost 25,000 acres of prime cattle-rearing land stretching from the No. 11 coastal highway all the way to the Atlantic coast. There’s not much else to do once you get here (it's a three-hour drive from Buenos Aires and its airport) but that’s the point, really. A perfect patch of grassy pampas for anyone who loves to ride horses, birdwatch (approx. 200 species) or take slow, meditative walks.

Style & character

8/10

With sections built as early as 1820, the estancia evolved during the heyday of Argentine cattle-rearing. Surrounded by old old poplar trees, the house is in classic Rio de la Plata style – a melding of understated Spanish exterior, Italianate mouldings and touches of country-house cosiness. Outhouses serve as a saddlery and stables, and there are areas of lawn close to the estancia.

Service & facilities

7/10

Owned by the polo-playing Dodero family (three daughters and their mum), who made their fortune through shipping, Las Viboras is opened to the public without any fanfare. Where some estancias put on shows or fancy food, the service and experience here is unfussy: sisters Sandy and Guiga are genial hosts and they chat with guests as friends might, and will join keen guests on hacks and invite more able riders to help with rounding up the 9,000 Angus cattle. Sheep and 300 horses grace, and deer also roam the pampas.

The ranch has four vintage carriages, canoes to use on the nearby Viboras river, a tennis court and saltwater pool; rides and other activities are included in the room-rate. Inside there’s a living room, games room with pool table, TV room and a library. There’s some Wi-Fi access and a landline to use, as mobile phone coverage is very poor.

Bar

Fitness centre

Laundry

Parking

Pool

Restaurant

Room service

Tennis court

Wi-Fi

Rooms

8/10

There are nine doubles, two of which have double beds, the rest using singles – a common feature of estancia accommodation. Décor and furnishings are cosy, old-fashioned, rustic but solid, with vintage prints and mirrors, small dressers, open fires in some rooms and fresh flowers in vases. Bathrooms have wooden floors, marble sinks, hot showers and bidets.

Food & drink

8/10

All stays are full-board. As well as wonderful outdoor asados (barbecues, with beef, lamb, chicken and offal), the restaurant does veggie soups, gazpacho, chard gratin, Patagonian shrimp salad, local fish and classic Argentine desserts such as dulce de leche ice-cream. Good wines are available, and a decent bottle is included as part of the room rate for lunch/dinner. Vegetarians and coeliacs are catered for. This is not a gourmet experience, but the food is classic pampas grub and rather delicious.

Eggs, bread rolls, homemade jams, organic honey, and coffee or mate tea are served at breakfast.