Description

The Watchtower is a large imposing tooth-like formation with North-West exposure. As of the present, April 2001, this formation appears to be closed to climbing having been purchased by a private party a year ago. The Watchtower does hold a few routes including an excellent 2 pitch sport route called Highway Robbery (5.12b). The rock is overall very good, although not the cleanest in the canyon. Climbing on the large North face is largely on fine sharp edges, while the trad corner contains a decent crack system.

Getting There

From the intersection in Lyons, head up the SSV canyon along highway 7 for 10.4 miles. The Watchtower is across the river, and a private bridge can (in principle) take you across. The approach is trivial, and parking is near by. Presently, it is advisable to get permission from the land owner to climb here.

This route is one of only two on the West face. Dan Hare confirmed that (from Gillett's book there was some speculation) the upper corner has been climbed at 5.10+P1: 5.6, head straight up cracks and jugs for 60 feet to fixed pro. It is surprisingly exposed.P2: 5.6, head straight up the same crack system with a little laybacking. Step onto the slab and follow a thinnish crack directly through a small bulge staying left of a prominent tree. Then gain a ledge with fixed pro. 80 feet.P3: 5.7...[more]Browse More Classics in CO

Well done, goatboy - thanks for the effort. The northern triangle of land (between tower and river), is privately owned. However, the bridge is public, as are the parking areas just adjacent to it. Crossing the river or the bridge (basically anywhere directly west of the formation) should be fully legal.