When installing the PIAA LED unit that replaces the OEM incandescent unit that illuminates the "angel eyes" or "corona rings," you will notice that the OEM bolts are about 1/4" too long for the PIAA unit. If you overtighten the bolts, which are now too long, you might either strip the thread on the headlight plastic, or crack the plastic.

You can easily remedy this problem by either:

(a) cutting the bolts shorter, or
(b) purchasing 4 nylon spacers (two for each side) from your local hardware store:

In this last photo, the PIAA LED unit is on the left, and the OEM unit on the right. You can now compare the length of the protruding bolts as shown by the yellow arrows:

LEDs or Light Emitting Diodes are directional. This means that they will not work unless the +/- electrodes (wires) are connected to their corresponding terminals.

When you look at the face of the PIAA unit, the very surface that makes contact with the headlight, you will see the PIAA logo engraved on it. The terminal on the side of the "P" in the logo "PIAA" attaches to the brown wire, and the terminal on the side of the "A" in "PIAA" attaches to the green wire. This, of course, is true for both driver and passenger side units.

Here's a little mnemonic to help you remember this: P=Brown, and PB=Peanut Butter or Pb=Lead. A=Green, and Ag=the chemistry symbol for silver.

One last note: when installing the PIAA units, the opening that envelops the two ends of the angel eye rings is very small and narrow. You will have to be careful about orienting the PIAA slots with those ends. This is because you may inadvertently push one of those ring ends downward and/or forward, which will make the angel eyes illuminate less bright than they should.

I have just installed my PIAA I notice that when I turn on my engine my markers blink for a few seconds then it shuts off. Didi i make any wrong connections?

No, this happens because LEDs require less current to light up, compared with the incandescent bulbs in which a wire filament must first heat up. Our cars run a diagnostic check by sending pulses of microcurrent to the bulbs. These pulses translate into blinking LEDs.

Right. When I initially installed those PIAAs on my first set of Xenons, I did not strip the plastic. However, the bolts were noticeably long enough that I am certain the ends burrowed into the virgin plastic (approx 1/4") they mount to. The key is knowing when to stop as this requires extra torque while tightening, which could result in stripping of the existing threads (on the plastic part). These headlights are simply too expensive to take chances with.

No, this happens because LEDs require less current to light up, compared with the incandescent bulbs in which a wire filament must first heat up. Our cars run a diagnostic check by sending pulses of microcurrent to the bulbs. These pulses translate into blinking LEDs.

The install took me about two hours, most of that time was spent on the first one. It took a solid 45 minutes to figure out how to open the top clip for me, so here is what I did for everyone else. Note I did not take the rim off, so it was extremely difficult to see the top clip.

The second unit from start to finish took 10 minutes

To open the angel eye housing:
take a flashlight, try and get a view of the top clip. Its very hard, but you can make out a small notch in it.

take a medium sized (regular household) flathead screwdriver and shove it into the notch on the clip. Now Twist it 90 degrees. This should release the clip.

Now grab the housing with your free hand and angle it forward.

Now release the bottom clip while making sure you hold the housing forward so the top clip doesn't re-engage.

The Torx inside is in fact a T-15. When inserting the new light housing (LED or otherwise) you must push the screws all the way down and align them to their respective holes as best as you can before pushing the unit in. This will prevent you from disrupting the light receptacles and having to re-align them 3 times like I did

The install took me about two hours, most of that time was spent on the first one. It took a solid 45 minutes to figure out how to open the top clip for me, so here is what I did for everyone else. Note I did not take the rim off, so it was extremely difficult to see the top clip.

The second unit from start to finish took 10 minutes

To open the angel eye housing:
take a flashlight, try and get a view of the top clip. Its very hard, but you can make out a small notch in it.

take a medium sized (regular household) flathead screwdriver and shove it into the notch on the clip. Now Twist it 90 degrees. This should release the clip.

Now grab the housing with your free hand and angle it forward.

Now release the bottom clip while making sure you hold the housing forward so the top clip doesn't re-engage.

The Torx inside is in fact a T-15. When inserting the new light housing (LED or otherwise) you must push the screws all the way down and align them to their respective holes as best as you can before pushing the unit in. This will prevent you from disrupting the light receptacles and having to re-align them 3 times like I did

Which side are you referring to as the "first one"?

Were you able to replace the passenger side bulb from under the hood? I took a look and can't see how it could be replaced like the DIY says.

the first one meaning the first side of the car that i did (passenger).

I do not see how anyone could possibly do the PASSENGER side through the top without opening the wheel well mud guard. Even if you could get the unit open, you could never see where the lighting unit plugged into to make sure that you didnt disrupt the two tubes that carry the light to the angel eyes.

Best way to do it is to prop it up on jackstands, take off the rims and the mud guards