Moving on with the walkthroughs for the BWOF cape, today I'll try to explain how I made the lining and the collar. Next picture shows the lining detail on the finished cape where you can easily tell apart the front facing because it's cut on the plaid fabric. The first thing to do is sewing the lining, joining all seams except the side seams (this includes the mid side, the front facing and the shoulder seams – the front side darts should be stitched first, of course). Note that there is no back collar facing (the upper collar is stitched directly to the lining), this is why the front facing is cut using the center front panel pattern instead of the front facing pattern used for view A. If you do things this way, don't forget to reinforce the lining by fusing interfacing strips at the collar and armhole seams (I also stay stitched them).

The lining is stitched to the outer shell ONLY where indicated by the red lines in my drawing (excuse me the bad drawing, but I couldn't get clear pictures of this). The shadowed areas indicate where the seams are opened. At this point we get a sort of a "sandwich" with the cape in the inside:

Agora vamos ver como se faz a gola. Os moldes da gola e do pé da cola são os seguintes (sem valores de costura incluídos):Now let's address the collar. The collar & collar stand patterns are the following (SAs are not included):Primeiro cose-se cada parte da gola ao pé da gola (tenham em atenção que a parte de cima da gola deve ser ligeiramente maior para acomodar a dobra do tecido depois da gola estar pronta), golpeiam-se os valores de costura e abrem-se a ferro. Em seguida cosem-se as duas folhas da gola direito contra direito mas terminando a costura como indicado (isto é importante pois facilita imenso a aplicação da gola depois) – no desenho os valores de costura estão incluídos, ao contrário do que acontece na foto dos moldes:First you must join each collar stand to each collar piece (don't forget to mind the turn of the cloth here: the upper collar should be slightly larger than the undercollar); clip/notch as necessary, press the seams open. Stitch the upper collar to the under collar (both with the collar stands attached now); note where the stitching line must end observing the next drawing very carefully (here SAs are included). This is very important because it will facilitate the collar setting in process later.Depois de virar a gola para o lado direito (aparar os valores de costura, abri-los com o ferro e golpeá-los onde necessário), enfia-se a gola na abertura do decote e prende-se com alfinetes. Cose-se a parte de baixo da gola à parte em tecido e a parte de cima da gola à parte em forro, golpeando e abrindo os valores de costura a ferro (podem enfiar o presunto de alfaiate por dentro através de uma das costuras laterais abertas para facilitar a passagem a ferro):Clip, grade, notch, press SAs open and turn the collar to the right side. Now stick the collar inside the "sandwich" through the collar opening and pin it in place along the neckline. Sticth the under collar to the fabric shell (together with the cape) and the upper collar to the lining shell. Clip/notch and press seams open (insert the tailor ham inside through one of the side seams and you can do this easily!)

Next I will explain how to turn the vest/cape right side out and secure the collar seams together! In the meanwhile I finished sewing my first Vogue pattern and I'm VERY pleased with it! I will review it as soon as I can! Here's a sneak peek (guesses anyone??):

EN Summary: After cleaning up the lining on the sleeves and sleeve vent, I couldn’t help myself and finished the cuffs. I recorded a short movie on Instagram which will give you an idea of how it looks :). Then I proceeded with setting in the sleeves by hand. Keep reading to find out about my progress so far!
--- PT Sumário: Depois de fazer o acabamento do forro nas mangas e na abertura dos punhos, não resisti a terminar o acabamento dos punhos. Gravei um vídeo no instagram que vos dará uma ideia de como fica. Depois passei à parte de coser as mangas à jaqueta à mão. Continuem a ler para verem o meu progresso até ao momento!