Oregon Coast Guide: X Marks the Spot for Foodies

Port of Call: Manzanita

THEINN AT MANZANITAinnatmanzanita.com; from $179 Don’t look for coastal kitsch at this perfectly situated inn, tucked inside a lush patch of property abutting Manzanita’s main drag. Split among four buildings, many of the inn’s 14 modern, tastefully appointed rooms boast colossal hot tubs, and second-floor units serve up peeks of the sun as it plunges into the Pacific.

OLDWHEELERHOTELoldwheelerhotel.com; from $99 Built in 1920, when Wheeler’s lumber industry flourished, the Old Wheeler Hotel has become the historic heart of this tiny rail town, minutes southeast of Manzanita. A stay here feels like a step back in time, into a world of antique furniture, hardwood floors, and ornate décor. Overlooking Nehalem Bay, the hotel’s eight elegantly dressed rooms come with water views that treat guests to an endless show of swooping eagles and herons.

EAT

NEHALEMRIVERINNnehalemriverinn.com Rising from the banks of the Nehalem River, this namesake inn is a bastion of white tablecloths, fine wines, and unforgettable food in a land of paper napkins and fried fish. Chef-owner Ryan Hamic dreams up inventive dishes like crispy roasted quail with lentils, chard, chorizo, and cherry syrup, while his wife, Nicole, plies guests with worldly wines, her homemade desserts, and plenty of charm.

RISINGSTAR CAFÉrisingstarcafe.com With just 40 seats in one tiny house, Rising Star feels more like someone’s dining room than a restaurant. Nina Simone croons through the speakers, and proprietors Pepi Gabor and Ron Allen welcome you like a long-lost friend. And they serve you like one, too: you’ll need a second stomach to polish off the plates of seared tuna and richly spiced shrimp pasta that parade out of their kitchen.

SLEEPYMONKCOFFEEROASTERSsleepymonkcoffee.com For us spoiled city folk, coastal coffee is nothing to write home about. But Sleepy Monk presents a welcome exception, with 21 beautifully roasted organic coffees, such as the robust Monastery blend, all available at the cozy tasting room and roastery on Cannon Beach’s main drag.

GREATNORTHERNGARLICCOMPANYLaneda Avenue and Highway 101, Manzanita; 503-368-7700 Don’t be fooled: this isn’t a mere garlic lover’s paradise. It’s a picnic promised land packed with a local jams, Blue Heron cheese, handmade chocolates, Northwest wines and microbrews, and anything else you fancy for lunch on the sand. And if you show up on the right day, the beach just might come to you—in the form of fresh crabs cooking on the patio.

EVOOCANNONBEACHCOOKINGSCHOOLevoo.biz True foodies know the satisfaction quotient of any meal skyrockets when you’ve cooked it yourself. Evoo owners Bob Neroni and Lenore Emery are well attuned to this formula after seven years of teaching casual, hands-on classes. Even better, at Evoo (named after extra-virgin olive oil), you’ll enjoy the satisfaction—and delicious results—of the whole cooking process, minus the cleanup.

Foodie Treasures

North to South

KARLA’S SMOKEHOUSE(Rockaway Beach)2010 Hwy 101 N; 503-355-2362Claiming “the best smoked fish in the United States of America,” Karla’s Smokehouse has been attracting an exuberant congregation of believers to Rockaway Beach for 46 years. Each day, Karla Steinhauser posts a sign on her teal door announcing the fresh catch and when you can get it. If you see black cod posted, run—don’t walk—to the nearest store to buy an extra cooler. This favorite sells out fast, and you’ll want as much as you can carry.

JETTYFISHERYMARINE RV & PARK(Rockaway Beach) jettyfishery.comThis weathered Rockaway Beach marina and RV park near Nehalem Bay is an ideal place to catch your own snack: crabbing, clamming, and fishing abound. Then again, so do the giant silver pans of just-shucked clams, oysters, and steamed Dungeness crab that have been caught and prepared for you.

TIDALRAVESSEAFOODGRILL(Depoe Bay) tidalraves.comIt’s little wonder that this upscale restaurant starred as Charlize Theron’s place of work in the 2008 movie The Burning Plain: with fairyland vistas over Depoe Bay’s dramatic cliffs and frothy waves, every seat at Tidal Raves is a treat. If you can peel your eyes away from the ocean, you’ll find that the menu of expertly prepared halibut tacos, smoked salmon chowder, and a daily cheesecake option is a worthy distraction. (Just ask Charlize.)

THEGREENSALMON COFFEE CO(Yachats) thegreensalmon.comThe only thing more mouthwatering than this convivial gathering spot’s house-roasted coffee—available brewed, pulled, or in signature drinks like the café Hawaiian (coconut milk latte with organic sugar and whipped cream)—are the grilled sandwiches you’ll be pairing with it. Our pick: the Nu-Yorka, an apt ode to the Big Apple stacked with turkey pastrami, swiss, and sauerkraut.

WATERFRONTDEPOT(Florence)thewaterfrontdepot.comMaking reservations is a must at this not-so-secret Florence gem. Housed in a 1913 train station on the Siuslaw River, the cozy, dimly lit Waterfront Depot marries the flavors of Indonesia, San Francisco, and the Pacific Northwest, with highlights like crab-encrusted halibut, Portuguese fish stew, and braised lamb shank—all for less than $15 each.

BRANDYPEAKDISTILLERY(Brookings) brandypeak.comAfter helping yourself to sun-ripened blackberries from brambly bushes up and down the coast, it’s only appropriate that you sample the liquid version: Brandy Peak Distillery’s blackberry liqueur. Made from fresh fruit picked within miles of the distillery, the liqueur can be enjoyed alongside eight other fruit brandies and grappas in Brandy Peak’s rustic tasting room, nestled in a coastal forest outside Brookings.