sure, that would work perfect. All I really need to do is get it into CAD.

Was going to donate mine, but looks like KM has it handled.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KookieMonster

When I ship ya my shocker for milling, I'll toss my nerve in there for you to do your CAD thing with then also. All I ask in return is that any nerve parts be named after me then. Like the KMRam, or the Monster Bolt... that would be awsome. I really can't bear to part with my nerve permanently. LOL

Thanks.

I like Monster Bolt.

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Assumption is the mother of all **** ups. "Thats a lot of Romans over there." "Yes but not one of them is Gisgo." Hannibal Barca and general Gisgo before the battle of Cannae in 216 BC.

Make valve poppits. Easy to make and youll prolly be able to sell a lot of them. Cant get them. If a valve starts leaking you either start re-finishing the surface or just dont use it anymore. I re-finished a few but it would be nice if one could be purchased.

i dont know what it is i was taught pro e in tech school i taught my self solidworks. i "aquired" inventor 10 and tried to teach myself how to use it but it seams i always ended up beating my head off the keyboard. i figured 2 outta 3 main engineering softwares aint bad so i just quit using it as much as i can. I still have to use inventor 9 at work sometimes with legacy files but if at all possible i try not to even open it. honestly sometimes its easier for me to make changes with photo shop on the old drawings rather than try to do it with inventor.

A lighter spring in the LPR could actually be counter productive to what you are trying to achieve. The LPR controls the pressure used to cycle the rammer, and will have an effect on the rammers speed. Speed is obviously a component of the energy that the rammer has to open the valve. One way of approaching your wish to lower the pressure used to fire the ball would be to open the valve further, and/or for longer. That will mean more air released, and to a degree (there comes a point where there is no reason to release any more, as irrespective of the volume of air or the pressure of that air, the ball has already left the barrel and cannot accelerate anymore, and so any additional air released at this stage is just being wasted), releasing more air will allow you to get up to velocity at a lower pressure.

So, if we want to get the pressure down, we want to ensure that the valve opens wide as possible, and stays open for a (relatively, but not excessively) long time. That means keeping the LPR pressure up (not turning it down) and increasing the dwell.

Other things may also assist, such as barrel design, good paint to barrel fit (or maybe a slight underbore), a high flowing bolt, etc.

What would it take to lower the pressure, I'm trying to do some work with a nerve I just picked up. I was thinking to just switch to lighter springs in the lpr and valve..

Honestly, if you balance the regs correctly and set your dwell right, your gun will be quieter and have less kick than if you drop your hpr + lpr and up your dwell.

Every gun is slightly different of course. But I used to run my nerve at 170 psi(hpr) with a dwell of around 10 (parker). The kick and sound was fairly low for a poppet, but efficiency was bad. I dropped the dwell to 7 or 8 (can't remember off hand). Upped the hpr to around 210ish and set the lpr as low as possible while maintaining consistency. The kick is roughly the same while the sound is quieter (more of a snap). Efficiency is much better. It really all comes down to how much energy you use and how you use it.

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Assumption is the mother of all **** ups. "Thats a lot of Romans over there." "Yes but not one of them is Gisgo." Hannibal Barca and general Gisgo before the battle of Cannae in 216 BC.

Honestly, if you balance the regs correctly and set your dwell right, your gun will be quieter and have less kick than if you drop your hpr + lpr and up your dwell.

Every gun is slightly different of course. But I used to run my nerve at 170 psi(hpr) with a dwell of around 10 (parker). The kick and sound was fairly low for a poppet, but efficiency was bad. I dropped the dwell to 7 or 8 (can't remember off hand). Upped the hpr to around 210ish and set the lpr as low as possible while maintaining consistency. The kick is roughly the same while the sound is quieter (more of a snap). Efficiency is much better. It really all comes down to how much energy you use and how you use it.

I have mine turned for consistency as of now. I'm just thinking there has to be a way to drop the pressure from ~ 230.

Aah, fair enough, I thought you were wanting to get the operating pressure down, not the cycling pressure. Though having said that, getting the OP down would help (though not necessarily forcing it down as low as possible as I was describing) as high operating pressures act to hold the valve closed, which would require higher LPR pressures. Between dwell, HPR and LPR (even before you get to changing springs if you take that route), getting the exact performance you are after - or at least the best possible compromise - without negatively impacting on another aspect of the markers performance, can be a bit of a balancing act (I've used that phrase a few times today, in Etek tuning threads.....).