Only valid for active forum users. Active means at least 30 postings within the last 30 days (no spam postings). This will automatically being checked at www.starbike.com shopping basket so make sure that you are logged in at the WW board!If there does not appear a WW discount position when you check out you do not have enough postings!

Christmas came early and I just received my long awaited set of Lightweight Obermayers. Just a quick question regarding the built-in magnet...has anyone had success using it with the Garmin Cadence/Speed sensor mounted on the non-drive side chain stay? Would very much prefer to use this versus a spoke-mounted magnet.

Well, the magnet is located in the rim, not on one of the spokes. Alignment with the cadence magnet mounted on the non-drive crank arm is the issue since there is only one sensor for both speed and cadence.

Did you read the instructions that came with your Garmin unit? It's as simple as aligning the appropriate sides of the Speed/Cadence sensor with your wheel and crank arm magnets. If you can, all is good. If you can't, you'll have to get a different ANT+ sensor (like this one or this one) or use a spoke magnet.

You don't need to be an 'experienced Lightweight user' to know that, just a bit of common sense.

Geoff wrote:I have always glued a magnet to the spoke on my LWs, as I don't want to mess-around with the sensor when I change to deep wheels. If all the magnets are in the same place, it is easier.

Agreed -- that's probably the only option I have as well since the built-in magnet is too close to the BB. Just wondering if any of the Lightweight users have successfully utilized the built-in magnet as designed. With the Ventoux, built-in magnet is installed in the spoke, making it much more versatile. What kind of magnet did you use?

nismosr wrote:congrats Tim ! when are we going to see the new wheels

Thanks Edwin. Maybe this weekend?

Northoceanbeach wrote:The magnets in the from right? How do you use it for a Cateye strada where the sensor mounts to the chainstay?

even with good signal quality, gps speed/distance accuracy can be mediocre on fast twisty or hilly routes when using a basic gps or smartphone

it's better with devices that have doppler speed estimation, but small gps units usually don't have this, afaik none of the cycling-oriented gps units have doppler, nor any smartphone, instead they rely on a periodic join-the-dots approach, curves become a series of straight lines, i.e. shortened, accuracy gets worse as speed/curvature increase

typically the calculation is done in 2d, so gradient also affects accuracy, again the gps will read too low, even for movement in a straight line, it gets worse as gradient increases

if you want accurate speed (and distance), a device using wheel revolutions vs. time is best, as long as you do a rollout and calibrate to circumference