Screwing down the deck is dumb unless you're going to carriage bolt it. A good flexing of the trailer is going to pop drywall/deck screws like buttons on a fat man's shirt.

I couldn't have built my trailer for what I paid for it... so I can tolerate the crappy paint, the bad wiring/lighting (which I replaced all of it anyway), and brakes on only one axle.

Drive over fenders, a toolbox in front of the deck that also goes under the deck a little (big enough to fit 4 binders and 6 8' 3/8" chains), a toolbox behind the axles to fit things like blocks of wood, ramps behind the axles, taillight housings that are indestructable, lots of side marker lights including ones out on the fenders that you can see in your rearview, stake pockets that are welded on both sides, 2" receiver in the front, adjustable legs for the back of the trailer so you don't ruin the coupler, et cetera would all be nice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kane

Not a problem I have, but a problem I see all the time:

Trailers set up for a 2" ball!

2" balls are rated for 6000 pounds AT BEST. For a trailer rated for 7000 pounds or higher??? Need a 2 5/16" setup.

My trailer has a 10,000lb 2" coupler and I run a 10,000lb 2" ball. My trailer is only good for 7,000lbs according to the registration... even though it's made of 5" channel. I have three different ballmounts (for 3 different heights of tires/trailer combination... I'd hate to have to buy 3 more for 2 5/16" stuff.