We are so lucky that New Zealand cheesemakers are constantly producing new tastebud temptations, many of them Kiwi variations on European recipes dating back hundreds of years.

Six thousand years ago it was discovered that if milk was combined with acid, rennet or plant extracts, it coagulated. The ancient Greeks regarded cheese as the food of the gods, and one of the earliest references to sheep's and goats' milk cheeses (feta) was made by Homer around 700BC.

Gorgonzola, the famous Italian blue cheese, was first produced before 879. The earliest recorded French cheese is Roquefort, a blue cheese prepared from sheep's milk.

The annual national cheese awards showcase the varieties of New Zealand cheese now readily available. This year there were over 430 entries. One of my favourites, Kapiti Kikorangi, was once again the public's favourite, winning the New World Champion Favourite Cheese title.

It was one of the first blues to receive a medal, over 18 years ago, and its enduring popularity is testament to its consistency. It's perfect served with watermelon, or crumble it into mini tart shells and top with chutney and chopped fresh herbs.

If you find this blue a little too upfront, try another winner, Kahurangi Creamy Blue, a softer, more creamy cheese that is marvellous served with sliced feijoas.

Emmental - a traditional Swiss-style cheese - is another variety I love to have in the fridge. It has marble-sized holes, a pale yellow interior with a mild, nutty, sweet flavour, and a firm, silky texture.

It's a cheese you can serve to anyone and expect positive comments. Serve it on cheeseboards or add it to souffles or quiche (it melts readily).

For beer drinkers who enjoy a good sharp beer plus a bite of cheese, an aged cheddar such as Tuteremoana is the perfect match. My son professes to be a beer connoisseur, and when he's drinking stout it's his cheese of choice, served on his homemade crusty bread.

SMOKED HAVARTI, MUSHROOM & BACON PROFITEROLES

Havarti is a mild, semi-soft cheese that is excellent on cheeseboards or grilled or melted.

Preheat the oven to 220C. Brush the potatoes with oil and place on a baking tray. Bake, turning once, until tender (about 45 minutes). Cool slightly.

Halve the potatoes lengthwise and scoop out the flesh with a spoon into a bowl. Leave a 5mm thick shell of skin and flesh.

Combine the scooped potato flesh with cup of the Tuteremoana, cup of the emmental, the sour cream, butter, chives, Tabasco, salt and pepper. Spoon the mixture into the potato halves and sprinkle with remaining cheese.

Bake until the cheese is browned and bubbly (about 10 minutes). Serves 4.