Nothing wrong with this kit. It absolutely must have a tune for it but, it's barbaric simple, dry shot, on or off, either through a mometary switch or a wot switch. You are paying a fair bit for one solenoid, some plastic line and a bottle, though, especially if you don't have a tune for the shot, because any shot on a Coyote needs a tune.

Nothing wrong with this kit. It absolutely must have a tune for it but, it's barbaric simple, dry shot, on or off, either through a mometary switch or a wot switch. You are paying a fair bit for one solenoid, some plastic line and a bottle, though, especially if you don't have a tune for the shot, because any shot on a Coyote needs a tune.

Yea a tune is a MUST of course!! So would it be a better investment to just go with a bigger kit? Even if u don't plan on running more than a 100 shot?

NOTHING wrong with dry but, like most things, you outgrow it. You start wanting the progressive controller, bottle heater, gauges, multiple stages, etc. and pretty soon you are into it for the price of a more complete kit.

NOTHING wrong with dry but, like most things, you outgrow it. You start wanting the progressive controller, bottle heater, gauges, multiple stages, etc. and pretty soon you are into it for the price of a more complete kit. This thing is really a sneaky pete kind of setup.

The problem I have with nitrous on these cars is because there is no map switchability on the fly, you're stuck running around on a flat nitrous tune off the jug too. This makes it useless on the road.

Depends on the shot size. You'll need to pull more than a few degrees on anything over 75 and this engine becomes real doggy if you don't keep the timing up in the low to mid 20s all in, n/a.

Plus, it's dry so, fuel needs to be accommodated through the tune. Older dry kits just deadhead the pressure up for shots under 125and this worked fine but, there is no compensation like that with this kit so, you need to dump fuel in through the tune, all the time, which won't help driveability and power off the jug.

Probably be ok up to the 100-125 shot level. Beyond that, the tune would start to really move away from what would work N/A.

Here is a possible solution to the problem of running a non-nitrous tune and then switching to a nitrous tune, without having to stop, plug in a tuner, and 5 minutes later you are ready to spray. The AIW Mycal split personality tuner is switch operated.
I'm considering either a blower or nitrous but if I spray the Mustang, being a manual and street driven, I want to be able to activate and spray at a moments notice if I want to as well as prevent notrous backfire when shifting, with a window switch...
Let me know what you thing of this guys:AIW MyCal Split Personality Tuner - Livernois Motorsports