Book Is Tribute To Mexican Cooking -- Family Style

CHICAGO — If you have a notion that all Mexican food is spicy, Aida Gabilondo would like to have a word with you. In fact, she would love to teach you about her personal style of Mexican cooking.

Gabilondo, the author of Mexican Family Cooking (Ballantine Books, $19.95), is a tiny, energetic woman, eager to teach but even more eager to inspire others to cook.

A Mexican family cook herself, she is unabashedly proud of her cooking: ''I think my food is the best food in the world, and I do love it. It's my soul food; it fills me up from the inside.

''When I cook I take very large tastes; no small teaspoons for me. Then I skip tortillas and other things so I can eat with my guests.

''I think Mexican food is getting better and better in the United States. I hope someday that the family style of cooking will show up in restaurants here.''

During an interview in Chicago, she was asked what was happening in the kitchens of Mexico. A slight frown crossed the perky face.

''In Mexico, many people are turning to fast food and American flavors. And the rate of inflation is so high that grocery prices go up constantly. Corn tortillas have seen a 100 percent price increase in the last few months. Housewives have to dole out the tortillas carefully, one at a time.

''A typical meal in a working class Mexican household consists of boiled beans flavored with a small bit of meat, garlic and spices. Wonderful, filling food, but on a very small budget.''

Gabilondo lives just outside of Mexico City with her husband. Their four daughters grew up eating her freshly canned apples, peaches and apricots, fresh cheeses and recipes such as squash and cheese casserole. Now, three of the daughters are professionals in the food business and the fourth is a homemaker and recipe scout for her mother.

New York Times food writer Craig Claiborne and Louisiana chef Paul Prudhomme encouraged Gabilondo to write this cookbook. ''When I started writing all the recipes down, I found out that I had more than 375 favorite recipes,'' she says. ''Some of the recipes I have prepared maybe 50 times, and others I have made weekly for most of my adulthood.''

Gabilondo has gathered more than 260 recipes in this volume. They are mostly from the regions of northern Mexico.

The recipes are relatively simple; techniques are not complicated, and ingredients are familiar. Most of the recipes have little or no spiciness from chilis. Gabilondo prefers the flavor of fresh garlic and bay leaf for many of the recipes. Serving suggestions are included as well as ingredient substitutes.

Mexican Family Cooking is not as scholarly as Diana Kennedy's classic Mexican cookbooks. It does not delve into the history of recipes or ingredients. And it does call for some frozen and canned ingredients. However, Gabilondo believes her book is more likely to be used by more people and more often.

''I'm not a purist like Diana Kennedy. But you can't say I'm modern either because I'm in my 60s. I do think Kennedy's books are great resources and valuable to all who enjoy Mexican cooking.''

What's next for the energetic Gabilondo? Another book on the regional specialties of Mexico and more of her personal style of cooking, she says.

This recipe is adapted from Mexican Family Cooking. Gabilondo says her daughters request this casserole when they are home.

SQUASH AND CHEESE CASSEROLE

2 pounds zucchini squash, about 6 medium

Salt to taste

3 tablespoons shortening or oil

1/4 cup diced white onion

1 ripe tomato, peeled, chopped

1 can (4 ounces) diced mild green chilies, well drained

2 cups white kernel corn, canned or frozen, well drained

Pepper to taste

1 cup evaporated milk or whipping cream

1 cup grated cheddar or monterey jack cheese

Heat oven to 375 degrees.

Wash and dry zucchini. Trim off ends but do not peel. Dice. Heat 1 quart water to boil. Add salt to taste and add zucchini. Cook until al dente, not mushy, about 3 minutes. Drain well, saving 1 cup of the liquid.