Zenbu Blog

Narisawa

About a year and a half ago I was honoured assist the Tokyo Metropolitan Government and Tokyo Convention and Visitors Bureau in promoting Tokyo Travel and Food to media and travel folk. Proceedings lasted about a week and concluded with a “stage performance” at Darling Harbour during Japan Expo. I had to ask whether I was required to sing or dance but it turns out it was more of a Q&A together with my mate Shaun Presland from Sake Restaurant. Turns out there were THOUSANDS of people – no pressure.

In my chats with tourism and media peeps I gave a brief overview of the Tokyo food world offerings from high end down to the most affordable and quick dining options – basically something to suit every taste and budget. What to expect, where to find it etc.

One of the wonderfully fancy places I mentioned was Les Creations de Narisawa – more affectionately known as “Narisawa” – (the chef’s surname) at the time No.1 on the San Pellegrino Top 50 Asian Restaurants.

If you are in Tokyo and looking to splash out on what will be an incredible demonstration of service and hospitality (or Omotenashi) alongside spectacular food – go here! A visual and sensory extravaganza. I highly recommend it. Do be prepared – It’s like going to a show and takes a commitment of around 4 hours.

Please find below a few snaps and captions which should put you in the picture.

The catwalk to Narisawa – enter on the right hand side past the pylons.

This will be on your left – what an awesome foyer!?

But I digress.. ( just loved it , had to share – Tokyo design/architecture – always stunning)

Place setting to remind you where you are eating..

Great view from my perch

Oshiboshi – a damp cloth to wipe your hands clean before eating. A very civilised Japanese custom.

Menu – Autumn Collective – Evolve with the Forest.

Chestnut Bread proving at my table

one half of Narisawa….

slowly, slowly….

Essence of cedar and pine in a log cup. Drink it first to set the scene. And Satoyama scenery. The tree bark is fried burdock skin, the leaves – okara (ground soybeans leftover after soy milk is made) with sorrel and matcha and bamboo charcoal. Wild herbs – raw and tempura. Soy yoghurt lies underneath.

Sumi. (charcoal) – a thick petal of sweet onion cooked in dashi wrapped inside a small soft bun made with leek charcoal and fried.

Bread ready to go, the hot bowl gets wheeled over.

Bread is scooped in and chestnut powder and yuzu is added.

On goes the lid and the bread is left on your table to cook

Bread of the Forest and Moss. The butter is house made and coated in olive and dried spinach to form a mossy look

Okinawa. Broth of sea snake from Okinawa – apparently in court times the original source of seafood in dashi (ie pre katsuo) was sea snake. According to Okinawans at least!

Who’s a pretty snake then? The broth also contained pork meat, winter melon and a young potato fritter. The dried snake is cooked down with soy and mirin then cooked with the pork in the broth. The bitterness of the melon cuts nicely through the rich porky broth. Obvious Chinese influence.

More bread is brought was also brought out – made with Hokkaido flour – the green version contains yomogi ( mugwort)

Eggplant, fried and pureed, Shiitake, flowers, tomato jelly.

Above – preparations for the next dish.

Ash 2009. Scenes of the sea shore.

Squid with paprika ash. A vinaigrette turned to “ash” in liquid nitrogen. Wonderful grilled squid with a dressing that had the aroma of bbq’s paprika peppers. The ash melting into liquid.

Next course. Hagi (autumn garment). A big chunk of fugu (blowfish) with sansho pepper and sudachi lime zest over the top. I was requested to eat with my fingers.

Followed closely by Langoustine from Odawara – gently pan fried but still rare “almost sashimi” with tomato vinaigrette and a touch of yuzu

Jane Lawson is the author of Zenbu Zen, finding food, culture and balance in Kyoto; Yoshoku; A little taste of Japan; and the recently released Tokyo Style Guide. Her articles on Japanese cuisine, culture and travel are widely published.

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