The cheerful animated backdrop at Vivienne Tam’s Spring 2018 show featured dancing Wuba, four-armed creatures the rough color and shape of a daikon radish from the film Monster Hunt. The Chinese blockbuster was this season’s focal point, a collaborative effort that Tam has wanted to execute since she saw it two years ago. “I loved the message—bringing hope, love, friendship, and family all together,” she said backstage before the show. “I want to bring that message to the world; that’s why the clothes are joyful.”

She kept it light and loose, her way of honoring the traveler’s narrative. There were many ruffled silk georgette gowns in baby pinks and pale blues to evoke a trickling mountain stream. A separate nod to the explorer came in subtle fabrications—a diaphanous tulle that was, in fact, a tactile mesh, and braided nylon cords slipped around waists. Tam included patched denim (“She’s traveling!”) as high-rise, wide-leg pants belted at the ankles—a rather nomadic shape—and several bohemian touches, like colorful woven straps and skinny mock scarves.

Someone on the team has clearly been taking note of salable trends; there were fanny packs and a single slogan tee, plus a logo strap in Ikea’s unmistakable blue and yellow. The collection excelled when Tam focused on what she does best: interpreting traditional Chinese motifs for an international audience. “There’s an element of mysticism to it,” she said, and Tam wove her culture directly into the clothes. There were swirling clouds and mountains picked out in blue silk threads, and two-headed cranes soaring across a tea-length dress. An ethereal landscape on a blouse chest pocket matched a mesh skirt, shirred and tucked to create asymmetrical waterfalls. “You know the nine-tailed fox?” she asked, pointing to a hand-painted one darting across a shirt. “I hand-drew it.” Then there were the cherubic Wuba, done as a showy print. It was best done subtly: a dimensional jacquard miniskirt sliced diagonally in a fun, wearable way and a heartfelt tribute to Tam’s home.