Vanessa Bruno

One of the pleasures of Resort is that it's a low-concept season. Designers don't feel too much pressure to come up with a big, overarching theme; something like, "the way girls would throw a jacket over a bias-cut dress in the nineties" is concept enough. And that, indeed, was the guiding image for Vanessa Bruno this season. The standout look was simplicity itself—a raw-hemmed tank dress in tangerine silk crepe de chine, abbreviated in length and cut on the (yes) bias. That dress will serve many a girl as a wardrobe workhorse, for sure. Elsewhere, Bruno emphasized the graphic, playing with contrasting abstract and floral prints, all in bolder colors than is typical for the brand. She was also rather playful with her materials, executing custom embroideries and hand-knit crochets, and adding close-up touches to her clothes, like the bit of organza overlaid on a tweed jacket. Nothing was overworked, however, and the whole collection was imbued with the label's signature sense of ease.