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Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Pattern Changes for the Pinkie Pie Dress

Hello, readers! As promised, I wanted to walk you through the bodice pattern changes I made to turn the Wiggle Dress pattern from my book into the Pinkie Pie dress. Here's the original in wool tweed:

And then here's the Pinkie Pie version:

Here's an overall map of the bodice pattern changes.

Here's how I did it:

1. Underarm. The pattern, as published, has gussets under the arms for a close fit. They look like this when sewn.

I eliminated the gussets to form a dolman sleeve, which is similar to a kimono sleeve. This is a great option if you're feeling a little intimidated by sewing gussets or if you're using a fray-prone or delicate fabric (these fabrics may tear at the stress points of the gussets during wear).

It's helpful to use a French Curve ruler for this. Here's what mine looks like. (You can most likely find a household item to substitute, like a saucer or other small round object.)

Start with the bodice side front. Place the French curve under the arm, connecting the side seam to the underarm seam. Draw a new line, as indicated in red below. You're adding a little triangle that extends down about 1.5" from the original underarm point.

2. Trace this underarm curve onto your back bodice pattern piece, so that the underarm seams match up perfectly.

3. When sewing, eliminate the gussets. Stitch the front bodice to the back bodice at the overarm seam, and then stitch the underarm seam. Reinforce at the curviest part of the underarm seam by stitching again 1/8" away from your original seam line (in the seam allowance) and then trim close to the second line of stitching. Clip and then press the underarm seam open above and below the underarm curve.

4. Waistline pattern changes. Draw a new seamline at the waistline curve on the dress front, side front, and back pattern pieces. Give yourself a 1" seam allowance (indicated by the dotted purple line) so that you can adjust the waistline if needed during fitting. Cut off the pattern below the 1" seam allowance.

5. You can add any skirt you like to the new bodice. Check out pages 98-103 in my book for full directions on making dirndl and circle skirt patterns. What I did for the Pinkie Pie dress was essentially a dirndl skirt, but with side pleats rather than gathers. Baste the new skirt to the dress bodice and then try on to make sure you're happy with the waistline placement.

Yes, you're definitely giving up some overarm mobility in this design. If that's important (like for an everyday/work dress), I would stick with the gussets or use a true kimono sleeve, which sticks straight out from the bodice, rather than angling downwards. I hope to do a tutorial for that soon!

I really do like it when you empower people to use the pattern as a creative springboard, and not simply a formula to follow. I've always felt that so many "here's the pattern I used" posts eliminate the info people need to really translate it for themselves. Good work!

Hi Gertie, thank you for this post, I figure that's how its done, but nice to get specific instructions. I have a question about the original pattern (and how cool is the fact that I can ask the author herself:))Did you line/ underline the gusseted versions of the dress? And is you lined it, what did you do with the gussets? Same story, silk organza patches and all? I made this version http://thehomeblues.blogspot.co.il/2012/12/the-red-wiggle-dress-gerties-book-for.html and and haven't lined the arms, and have just the lining part left to finish for my second one. (Thank you!:)

Hi Gertie, I have stumbled on your blog a while back and keep coming back for the wonderful things you make. I also follow your tutorials on Creativebug. I am new to sewing (has been only a little more than a year). I want to make your wiggle dress for a friend. Do you think it is going to be too difficult for a beginner? Thank you!!!! Sohini

Seeing how the skirt looked on your pinkie dress...helped me to finally decide to go with that style on my dress.http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/candy-wrapper-dress.htmlTotally loving your book BTW. I keep using the portrait blouse as my 'sloper' to base dresses off.