Kgale Hill is in Gaborone [[Botswana]].The best climbing area faces the Game City shopping complex (with it’s own defunct climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the base of the cliffs. There are three main areas. There is easy access to the base and the top of these cliffs if you want to set up a top rope. You may need a rigging rope as the nearest suitable anchor points are sometimes a little way back from the top of the cliffs. There are several anchors and bolted routes.

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Kgale Hill is in Gaborone [[Botswana]].The best climbing area faces the Game City shopping complex (with it’s own defunct climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the base of the cliffs. There are three main areas and several anchors and bolted routes. There is easy access to the base and the top of these cliffs if you want to set up a top rope, though you may need a rigging rope as the nearest suitable anchor points are sometimes a little way back from the top of the cliffs. In over ten years of climbing, we have had one incident of a non-violent mugging of two climbers (2011 - no climbing equipment taken) - please don't take valuables when climbing. The rocks are sometimes used by traditional churches, please act respectfully.

THE BLACK ROCKS. A lower dark band of cliffs which contains the longer climbs and can be seen in the photo to the left.

THE BLACK ROCKS. A lower dark band of cliffs which contains the longer climbs and can be seen in the photo to the left.

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== Getting There ==

== Getting There ==

Kgale Hill is on the southern end of Gaborone and is hard to miss.

Kgale Hill is on the southern end of Gaborone and is hard to miss.

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{{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300|Kgale+Hill}}

== The Black Rocks ==

== The Black Rocks ==

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[[Image:Blacktc.jpg]]

[[Image:Blacktc.jpg]]

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1. GRUFFALO GULLEY 13 (N,A) 20m

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1. GRUFFALO GULLEY 12 (N,A) 20m

To the left of the triple chin area there is a deep recess. There are chains at the top on the right hand side. A more interesting variation is to climb the face to the left to the underside of the overhang before moving into the back of the recess.

To the left of the triple chin area there is a deep recess. There are chains at the top on the right hand side. A more interesting variation is to climb the face to the left to the underside of the overhang before moving into the back of the recess.

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First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

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3. BATHTUB BRIM 20 (7B,A) 17m

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3. BATHTUB BRIM 21 (7B,A) 17m

3m to the right of Croissant Bleu and similar to it with the crux on the bulge again.

3m to the right of Croissant Bleu and similar to it with the crux on the bulge again.

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4. PEG ON THE NOSE 18 (N, A) 22m

4. PEG ON THE NOSE 18 (N, A) 22m

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To the right hand of Bathtub Brim the route goes up the first obvious large crack with a lot of baboon droppings at the base. The crux is at the top of the first crack made harder by the copious amounts of baboon urine covering the rock. After this there are two alternative cracks to the top, both about the same level of difficulty.

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To the right hand of Bathtub Brim the route goes up the first obvious large crack with a lot of baboon droppings at the base. The crux is at the top of the first crack made harder by the copious amounts of baboon urine covering the rock. After this there are two alternative cracks to the top. The left is the standard route and has the chains at the top. The right hand variation has a slightly harder step across move onto a sloping shelf.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho May 2003.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho May 2003.

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5. FROTTIOR 23 (9B,A) 24m

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5. FROTTIOR 24 (9B,A) 24m

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To the right of the crack of Peg on the nose. This is one of the longest climbs on Kgale with two crux bulges to get over. Sustained face climbing

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To the right of the crack of Peg on the nose. This is one of the longest climbs on Kgale with two crux bulges to get over. Sustained climbing.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

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6. BLACK PUDDING 22 (9B,A) 22m

6. BLACK PUDDING 22 (9B,A) 22m

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To the right of Frottior and similar to it.

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To the right of Frottior and similar to it but easier on the overhanging bulges.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

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To the right of Black Pudding. Follow the crack up from the base. Near the top trend left under the bulge until you can reach out over the top of it to the chains which remain hidden until you step out.

To the right of Black Pudding. Follow the crack up from the base. Near the top trend left under the bulge until you can reach out over the top of it to the chains which remain hidden until you step out.

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First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

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First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005. Also lead on trad Carl Bauer 2009.

8. MICHELIN MAN 17 (N,A) 20m

8. MICHELIN MAN 17 (N,A) 20m

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To the right of Triple Chin straight up the face on the first section aiming for the crack up the second section to the overhang on the third section.

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To the right of Triple Chin straight up the face on the first section aiming for the crack up the second section to the overhang on the third section. Very dodgy gear for the face on the first section.

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Climbed on top rope only.

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First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2009.

9. BUOY BELLY 15 (N,A) 20m

9. BUOY BELLY 15 (N,A) 20m

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First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

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5. UNNAMED 23 (TR) 19m

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5. MAPALASTINA 23 (TR) 19m

The route starts 2m to the left of Kwela. Climb up the first block and from here keep to the face without using the blocks to the left crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on very thin face holds.

The route starts 2m to the left of Kwela. Climb up the first block and from here keep to the face without using the blocks to the left crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on very thin face holds.

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Climbed on top rope

Climbed on top rope

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7. UNNAMED 20 (TR) 19m

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7. KWANTLE 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts as for Kwela up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here move out onto the slab to the right and keep to the middle of the slab crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on thin face holds.

The route starts as for Kwela up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here move out onto the slab to the right and keep to the middle of the slab crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on thin face holds.

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First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005. Now also led on trad gear by Robert Daffe 2005.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005. Now also led on trad gear by Robert Daffe 2005.

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12. UNNAMED 25 (7B,A) 18m

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12. ITEKA 25 (7B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the face with the crux near the bottom.

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the face with the crux near the bottom.

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Climbed on top rope only

Climbed on top rope only

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14. UNNAMED 23 (TR,A) 16m

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14. SEKOPO 23 (TR,A) 16m

Facing scrape there is a face with a blank start up to a ledge. Start round to the left and hand traverse onto the ledge to gain the crack. Then straight up the crack to the chains at the top.

Facing scrape there is a face with a blank start up to a ledge. Start round to the left and hand traverse onto the ledge to gain the crack. Then straight up the crack to the chains at the top.

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Climbed on top rope only

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First Ascent: Falco Filotto 2010

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15. UNNAMED 17 (N,A) 14m

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15. BEIBELE 17 (N,A) 14m

At the far right hand side of the red rocks the route goes up the first obvious crack at the back of a shallow open book to chains at the top

At the far right hand side of the red rocks the route goes up the first obvious crack at the back of a shallow open book to chains at the top

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[[Image:uppertier.jpg]]

[[Image:uppertier.jpg]]

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UNNAMED 22 (TR) 18m

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MOLORA 22 (TR) 18m

Just around the corner from Rotisserie is a flared crack leading up to a cubby hole under a block. Start by traversing into the crack on the ledge from the left by balancy moves. From here go up the crack to the cubby hole.

Just around the corner from Rotisserie is a flared crack leading up to a cubby hole under a block. Start by traversing into the crack on the ledge from the left by balancy moves. From here go up the crack to the cubby hole.

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At the far left hand side of the top area is a buttress facing West with a short leaning offwidth crack in it and a couple of horizontal cracks. From the large blocks at the base of the offwidth do a hand traverse left to the smaller vertical crack. Climb this to another horizontal ledge and then to the top strenusously.

At the far left hand side of the top area is a buttress facing West with a short leaning offwidth crack in it and a couple of horizontal cracks. From the large blocks at the base of the offwidth do a hand traverse left to the smaller vertical crack. Climb this to another horizontal ledge and then to the top strenusously.

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First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

HOT DOG 18 (TR) 10m

HOT DOG 18 (TR) 10m

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First Ascent: Robert Daffe April 2005.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe April 2005.

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UNNAMED 22 (TR) 21m

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MENO 22 (TR) 21m

Around the corner from Colgate is a face with a crack on the right near a vertical block. Take the crack up to the blank face. The slightly sloping face is difficult.

Around the corner from Colgate is a face with a crack on the right near a vertical block. Take the crack up to the blank face. The slightly sloping face is difficult.

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Climbed on top rope only.

Climbed on top rope only.

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UNNAMED 20 (TR) 18m

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MARININI 20 (TR) 18m

The next buttress has a prominent ridge which can be climbed to the top.

The next buttress has a prominent ridge which can be climbed to the top.

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>> Back to [[Botswana]] page

Latest revision as of 09:08, 9 November 2012

Kgale Hill is in Gaborone Botswana.The best climbing area faces the Game City shopping complex (with it’s own defunct climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the base of the cliffs. There are three main areas and several anchors and bolted routes. There is easy access to the base and the top of these cliffs if you want to set up a top rope, though you may need a rigging rope as the nearest suitable anchor points are sometimes a little way back from the top of the cliffs. In over ten years of climbing, we have had one incident of a non-violent mugging of two climbers (2011 - no climbing equipment taken) - please don't take valuables when climbing. The rocks are sometimes used by traditional churches, please act respectfully.

THE BLACK ROCKS. A lower dark band of cliffs which contains the longer climbs and can be seen in the photo to the left.

THE RED ROCKS. a wedge shaped band of red rock above and to the left of the black rocks that can be seen in the photo here.

THE UPPER TIER. This is higher up and to the right of the red and black areas and is the longest walk in.

There is a nesting black eagle on the top of Kgale hill under the mast. These rocks are a long walk in and there is no decent climbing there anyway. So let's leave the eagle in peace.

Getting There

The Black Rocks

This area is the first reached from the base and has the longest climbs. There is a distinctive triple chin on the righthand buttress. Further right is a gulley with a path up to the red rocks and further right still is another tower of similar coloured rock with more climbing.

1. GRUFFALO GULLEY 12 (N,A) 20m

To the left of the triple chin area there is a deep recess. There are chains at the top on the right hand side. A more interesting variation is to climb the face to the left to the underside of the overhang before moving into the back of the recess.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2003.

TRIPLE CHIN AREA

2. CROISSANT BLEU 20 (6B,A) 17m

To the right of the break this is the first line of bolts on the left hand side of the distinctive double chin (it becomes triple further to the right). A slightly sloping start getting steeper with the crux on the distinctive bulge.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

3. BATHTUB BRIM 21 (7B,A) 17m

3m to the right of Croissant Bleu and similar to it with the crux on the bulge again.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

4. PEG ON THE NOSE 18 (N, A) 22m

To the right hand of Bathtub Brim the route goes up the first obvious large crack with a lot of baboon droppings at the base. The crux is at the top of the first crack made harder by the copious amounts of baboon urine covering the rock. After this there are two alternative cracks to the top. The left is the standard route and has the chains at the top. The right hand variation has a slightly harder step across move onto a sloping shelf.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho May 2003.

5. FROTTIOR 24 (9B,A) 24m

To the right of the crack of Peg on the nose. This is one of the longest climbs on Kgale with two crux bulges to get over. Sustained climbing.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

6. BLACK PUDDING 22 (9B,A) 22m

To the right of Frottior and similar to it but easier on the overhanging bulges.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

7. TRIPLE CHIN 18 (7B,A) 22m

To the right of Black Pudding. Follow the crack up from the base. Near the top trend left under the bulge until you can reach out over the top of it to the chains which remain hidden until you step out.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005. Also lead on trad Carl Bauer 2009.

8. MICHELIN MAN 17 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Triple Chin straight up the face on the first section aiming for the crack up the second section to the overhang on the third section. Very dodgy gear for the face on the first section.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2009.

9. BUOY BELLY 15 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Michelin Man round the corner in the dead end and the last climb before the gulley with the path up. Straight up the end of the gulley onto a ledge to your right and up sloping rocks to the chains.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP GULLEY 11 (N,A) 12m

Halfway up the ascent gulley on the left hand side there is a smaller gulley in the rock which may be ascended to chains at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP SLAB 12 (N,A) 12m

To the right of warm up gulley the sloping slab is a good beginners climb with chains on the block at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

CUBICLE AREA

7. DIPILO TSA PELA 21 (TR) 19m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the front of the buttress is a small crack. This climbs straight up the crack. After the initial crack it is easy climbing to the top.

First Ascent: Climbed on top rope only.

PET HEAVEN 21 (N) 19m

On the face to the left of Pet Cemetery the initial climb to the ledge is fairly easy. The face climbing above is strenuous with the crux on leaving the ledge.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer May 2009.

8. PET CEMETERY 17 (N, A) 20m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the right hand side of this buttress is a crack all the way to the top going over a ledge midway.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Robert Daffe 2002.

9. THE CUBICLE 23 (7B, A) 20m

To the right of Pet Cemetery is a deep recess. The right face of this recess is slightly overhanging and can be climbed without using the face behind as a chimney. Watch the fall onto the face behind in the first half of the climb.

Climbed on top rope only.

THE CAVE 17 (N, A) 20m

Further into the deep recess there is a cave. This can be climbed to the top where it comes out above the surrounding climbs through a hole in the rock.

Climbed on top rope only.

10. HANNIBALS LOBOTOMY 23 (7B, A) 22m

Coming out of the recess on the right side this climb follows the corner over a nose with the crux getting up onto and over the overhanging nose.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005.

11. PELA PAPA 23 (TR) 22m

To the right of the arete is an overhanging dish. Starting on the block at the right climb the right side of the dish and then continue to the top.

Climbed on top rope only.

12. PELA KWA PELE 16 (N) 18m

Around the corner to the right of the previous route is a slab with a layback corner at the right edge. Go up the layback and then traverse left 2m and follow the fault up to the chains for Hannibal's Lobotomy

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2009.

THE RED ROCKS

This area is above and to the left of the black rocks and the climbs are longest at the left hand side facing the rock and shortest at the right as the height tapers to nothing.

1a. THOKO VARIATION 15 (N,A) 24m

The route starts and ends as for Thoko but avoids the crux block by going round the left of it.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

1. THOKO 20 (TR,A) 24m

The route starts on the left of the red area. Climb up the first block and from here move up to a small alcove under a right leaning crack. Climb this crack with difficulty (crux) to get on top of the second set of blocks. From here climb to the steep granulated ramp and traverse this to the right.

Climbed on top rope only

2. MORUBISI 16 (N,A) 23m

The route starts to the right of Thoko. Climb up the first block and from here move up the crack filled with chockstones with a face to your right to finish at the same place as Thoko. Slings round chockstones make good pro.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

3. PHATLA 19 (N) 22m

The route starts to the right of Morubisi. Climb up the first block and from here climb the thin crack in the large boulder to get onto this boulder. From here climb the overhanging layback crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

4. LATLHA 15 (N) 20m

The route starts to the right of Phatla. Climb up the gulley between boulder and face to a ledge and then up the jumbled rocks in the gulley.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

5. MAPALASTINA 23 (TR) 19m

The route starts 2m to the left of Kwela. Climb up the first block and from here keep to the face without using the blocks to the left crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on very thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

6. KWELA 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts right under the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. Climb up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here climb to the left of the tree between the rock and a branch. Without using the tree this is the crux. Continue up the left hand side of the crack on the arete. The variation to this is to climb using the crack after getting above the tree.

Climbed on top rope

7. KWANTLE 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts as for Kwela up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here move out onto the slab to the right and keep to the middle of the slab crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

8. KO GAE 17 (N) 19m

The route can be easily found by locating the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. To the right of this there is a large downward pointing flake on the side of a crack. Climb up the crack and over the flake. Follow the crack straight up to the higher shepherd’s tree growing from the rock face at the top of the cliff.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho. May 2003.

9. NEXT DOOR 15 (N,A) 20m

This route starts about 4m to the right of Ko Gae and goes up some blocks to the right of a slightly projecting nose. Step round or climb up over the nose. From here head for the finish of Ko Gae. The crux is at the start where some jamming in the crack is required. A more interesting alternative near the top is to make the airy step left around the nose and then climb back right over the top of it.

First Ascent: Anton Makgetho and Carl Bauer. May 2003.

10. PLUMBLINE 22 (6B,A) 18m

The route goes up the middle of the face to the right of Next Door starting up the thin crack. The route goes directly up using a combination of thin face holds and holds in the crack surmounting a small overhanging lip near the top.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

11. RUSTY HINGE 20 (6B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from plumbline. It moves up the wide open book and over the block in the middle by the use of sideways and undercut holds.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005. Now also led on trad gear by Robert Daffe 2005.

12. ITEKA 25 (7B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the face with the crux near the bottom.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

13. SCRAPE 20 (TR) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the obvious off width crack. An infuriating crack bound to take some skin off.

Climbed on top rope only

14. SEKOPO 23 (TR,A) 16m

Facing scrape there is a face with a blank start up to a ledge. Start round to the left and hand traverse onto the ledge to gain the crack. Then straight up the crack to the chains at the top.

First Ascent: Falco Filotto 2010

15. BEIBELE 17 (N,A) 14m

At the far right hand side of the red rocks the route goes up the first obvious crack at the back of a shallow open book to chains at the top

First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

THE UPPER TIER

There are a number of interesting climbs in this area but it gets very hot on a summer afternoon.

MOLORA 22 (TR) 18m

Just around the corner from Rotisserie is a flared crack leading up to a cubby hole under a block. Start by traversing into the crack on the ledge from the left by balancy moves. From here go up the crack to the cubby hole.

ROTISSERIE 21 (N) 13m

At the far left hand side of the top area is a buttress facing West with a short leaning offwidth crack in it and a couple of horizontal cracks. From the large blocks at the base of the offwidth do a hand traverse left to the smaller vertical crack. Climb this to another horizontal ledge and then to the top strenusously.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

HOT DOG 18 (TR) 10m

Take the offwidth crack directly to the top

PIZZA 21 (TR) 13m

To the right of Hot dog there is a slab which can be taken directly to the top with a difficult start on thin holds.

TSELA 18 (N) 22m

To the left of aperture there is a small finger crack up to a ledge followed by a larger crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2004.

APERTURE 19 (N) 22m

At the left side of the upper tier there is a splayed recess under a roof. The climb goes up to the roof and then out under the roof to the right. Requires a couple of big friends for protection of the roof.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe and Carl Bauer April 2005.

MACLEANS 20 (N,A) 25m

This is a trad climb variation to colgate which requires you to go up the crack at the left to place pro before exiting at the same flake as colgate.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe May 2005.

COLGATE 21 (7B,A) 25m

There is a buttress in the middle of the upper tier with a very large projecting block on the top and a flake on it's left side. This sports climb starts directly under the flake and has an interesting ending squeezing out between the flake and the block.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe April 2005.

MENO 22 (TR) 21m

Around the corner from Colgate is a face with a crack on the right near a vertical block. Take the crack up to the blank face. The slightly sloping face is difficult.

Climbed on top rope only.

MARININI 20 (TR) 18m

The next buttress has a prominent ridge which can be climbed to the top.