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the instructions for making a rolled hem.) Does it give ideas for decorative effects that you might want to try? Can you override the knives? Is it easy to do? This is not as important as some dealers claim. On models that have stationary knives, it's easy to guide the fabric inside the edge, avoiding the knife, when you don't want to trim an edge. Does the machine come with a guaran- tee? Overlock machines have been used by professional sewers for years. They are almost overbuilt for home use, having been designed originally for eight-hours-a-day, seven-days-a-week use. A machine bought before 1985 probably didn't need a guarantee. But with the flood of new machines and the anticipation of cheap look-alikes, you shouldn't buy a machine that does not have a guarantee. The guarantee should be for at least 90 days to minimize the possibility of a lemon; the optimal guarantee is a year or more. What and where to buy Since most overlock machines are made by a few companies in Hong Kong and Taiwan, no matter what brand name is slapped on them, they are all similar. You can't go wrong with the major brands: Baby Lock, White Superlock, Bemina Bemette, Viking Huskylock, Singer Professional, Juki Lock, Riccarlock, Pfaff Hobby Lock, Brother Lock, NecchiLock. With the expansion of the fad, you'll see more brands, but many, such as the Simplicity, are Baby Locks in disguise. In fact, one dealer told me, "If you're willing to buy one hundred units, you, too, can have your own name on the machine." At the moment, there are three alterna- tives to buying a new domestic overlock machine. You can buy a used machine, the New Home Combi 10, or the Bemina Cut 'n' Sew attachment. The market for used dome'Stic overlocks should pick up as home sewers replace their machines with newer, easier-to-use models. Watch the want ads, and expect to see ads for Jukis and Baby Locks, the two machines that have been available longest. If you live near a city, check the Yellow Pages under Sewing Machines-Industrial. You may be able to buy a used industrial overlock machine, which is sturdier and faster than a domestic one, but naturally more expensive. Used industrial machines start at about $700. They are also less versatile for the home sewer. In general, a three-thread industrial is for knits; a fourthread, for wovens; and a five-thread, for heavy wovens like denims. (The fifth thread provides additional strength.) Another alternative is the New Home Combi 10, which is a regular sewing machine on one side and a two-thread overlock on the other. This gimmick sews about half as fast as a true overlock. The last alternative is the Bernina Cut 'n' Sew, an $80 blade attachment that trims the fabric before it passes under the needle for regular zigzag stitching. If you have a Bernina and do not sew a lot, this is a reasonable alternative. You can also check out some recently published books on sergeI's. The two I recommend are Ann Person's Serge and Sew: Time-Saving Serger Tips, 1984, available for $5.95 from Stretch & Robbie Fanning is a contributing editor oj Threads magazine. After researching this article, she bought a three/jour thread over[ock machine. She wishes to thank The F[ace That Sells Sewing Machines, Daly City, CA, and Douglas Fabrics, Pa[o Alto, CA, jor their help. a, A comparison of top-of-the-line three-thread overlock machines Baby Bemina Brother Pfaff Husky Juki BL3-418 Thread capability Colors or symbols to facilitate threading Handles knit weights: L (light), M (medium), H (heavy) Handles woven weights: L (light), M (medium), H (heavy) Needles: I (industrial), R (regular) Threads: C (cone), S (spool), H (heavyweight) Built-in light Rolled edge capability Stitch-width range (in mm) Stitch length changed with: B (button), D (dial), 2/3 Yes L,M,H L,M,H I C,S,H Yes Inc!. 1.5-5.3 D L (lever), S (screwdriver) Location of stitch-length indicator Inside Knife can be overriden Tension dials are numbered Color of machine: Bed Head Length of manufacturer's guarantee Manufacturer's suggested retail price Febmary/March 1986 Yes No Blue Lock Bernette Lock Hobby Lock 525 234 3/4 Yes L,M,H L,M,H R C,S,H Yes Extra 4-6 S Inside Yes Yes Gray Yes L,M L,M I C,S,H Yes Inc!. 1-5 D 2/3 Yes Yes L,M,H L,M,H L,M,H L,M,H I C,S,H Yes Inc!. 1.5-3.5 S I C,S,H Yes Inc!. 2-5 S Inside Inside Inside Yes Yes No Yes Yes Yes Yes L,M,H L,M,H I C,S,H No Inc!. 3.5-4 S,D Inside Yes Yes White White White White White White White Brown Black Brown 5 yr. 90 days 90 days None $599 $549 $355 $549 None $549 None $549 Lock 603A 3 3 Lock .3 Lock 2/3 Yes L,M,H L,M,H I C,S,H Yes Inc!. 430 MO-103N Pro. Lock 343 3/4 Yes M M I C,S Yes N/A 1.5-5 2.5-4.5 L D Inside Inside Yes Yes Yes Yes N/A 2 yr. $479 White 1 Red Burgundy Blue 5 yr. $250 yr. $599 SL800 2/3 Yes L,M,H L,M,H I C,S,H No Inc!. 1.5-5.3 B Inside Yes No White Pro. 3 Yes L,M,H L,M,H I C,S,H No Extra 3.5-5 D 14U12 White Super[ock 534, Sew, Box 185, Eu- gene, OR 97440; and Pati Palmer and Gail Brown's Sewing with Sergers, 1985, available for $6.95 from Palmer/Pietsch, Box 12046, Portland, OR 97212. 0 Necchi RiccaI' Simplicity Singer White Super Lock 534 Yes 3/4 L,M,H L,M,H R C,S,H Yes Inc!. 2.8-5 D Outside Inside No Yes No Yes White White Blue 90 days 90 days $489 $599 45