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On a different rail I tried at one point I had drilled and tapped a shallow hole in the reg end of the valve. Just enough to get 3 turns of a bolt. When I bolted on the frame, the bolt went thru the frame and rail and grabbed on the valve to tighten down. It is unnecessary on the rail pictured above. The body bolts to the rail and the fitting goes thru the rail and hold everything in place.

I like what you have going on here. I am still trying to figure out why this specific rail is more desirable for this mod?

The out of the box projects that are going on these days are pretty cool. Glad to see some offbeat ideas coming to fruition.

The big reason for me in choosing this rail is that its Emag length and I can get the front grip away from the frame further. And also a huge reason is that when I bolted the frame back further on the rail, the rail is still flush with the frame. Most of the longer rails are cut sloping upwards from the trigger frame to the valve which leaves the gap you see on alot of ego-mags. With this rail I could move the frame all the way to the back and keep it flush without any gaps. I hope I am explaining this properly.

Well I have been out of town working for a few weeks and havent had much time to work on this project. I did decide to go with a pnuemag setup and got the parts in for that. My spare time has been dedicated to finishing up that fish tank I started recently. Once I got going I had to stick to a timeline in order for everything to work properly. I now have some fish, snails, and crabs in there and more on the way later this week. Heres some pics:

Thats exactly how it all stays together. I did tap a hole in the bottom of the valve in the regulator portion to be able to bolt it down but it was unnecessary. The valve goes into the body quite a bit and the body is bolted to the rail so it all stays put quite well.

The big reason for me in choosing this rail is that its Emag length and I can get the front grip away from the frame further. And also a huge reason is that when I bolted the frame back further on the rail, the rail is still flush with the frame. Most of the longer rails are cut sloping upwards from the trigger frame to the valve which leaves the gap you see on alot of ego-mags. With this rail I could move the frame all the way to the back and keep it flush without any gaps. I hope I am explaining this properly.

awe man ii thought the big reason you got this rail was cause of tha smoking deal i gave ya...haha! looking good man and yeah it does look way better using a rail that wasn't cut at a slant in back!

I love FEP Quests so this project is saahweet IMO! Also, aesthetically it is about as clean as you can get layout wise (i.e. the way you decided to run the air). Bummer you couldn't keep the stock Quest trigger, that geometry and trigger is spot on.

Sort of OT but a while back a buddy of mine started but never finished an idea we thought up for an all mech/pnuematic FEP Quest, because you can't shower with an electro ;-) Now that I'm seeing this build it makes we want to pick up where he left off or start over. I can't for the life of me hack up my desert-digi-cam Quest... she's too pretty. Donor Quest time :-D

Great project and I love the melding of oldschool and new school. That body really pops and the barrel choice is another classic that has me I've always wanted one of those End Game barrels...

Thanks alot for the compliments. I have actually switched back to the stock trigger as I have another project in mind for the Maghog trigger. I got a set of pnuematics and have the MSV2 mounted but not the ram yet. On a side note I did get a few more fish in the tank.

This project sort of made it to the bottom of the list. I used it for a while in mech mode but that was it. I sold the body but have the rest of it. I have other builds right now I am sort of focused on. Like most of us, I will get back to it and finish it eventually.