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Can vanilla ice cream still be considered vanilla ice cream if it contains no milk, no cream - and no vanilla?

A recent investigation by consumer advisor Which? revealed that one in five of the 24 ice creams sampled contained none of the three ingredients shoppers might expect in their tub of ice cream.

“Shoppers may be surprised to find out that the vanilla ice creams available to buy in supermarkets can vary wildly in terms of the ingredients they contain” a spokesperson for Which? said.

Only half of the ice creams sampled contained all three of the traditional ingredients used to make ice cream, with the remaining products containing only some or one of the ingredients.

A classic vanilla ice cream might be expected to be made from a custard of egg yolks, milk, cream, vanilla and sugar, which is then aerated and frozen. Italian gelato simplifies this recipe even further by using only fresh milk rather than the mixture of cream and milk, yielding a smoother, softer ice cream.

One in five ice creams surveyed had none of the traditional ingredients expected in a vanilla ice creamCredit:
Jack Sullivan / Alamy Stock Photo

The worst offenders in the ice cream debacle, containing none of the key ingredients that constitute an ice cream, were Soft Scoop Vanilla Ice Cream by Asda, Morrisons, Tesco, Wall’s and Ms Molly’s - a brand sold exclusively at Tesco.

So what on earth do these ice cream impersonators have in them? Unsurprisingly, manufacturers have cut costs by substituting cream and milk for dried skimmed milk or whey protein. Vanilla was often replaced by flavouring, and in some cases palm oil, coconut oil and palm kernel oil.

Before 2015, these frozen frauds would not have classified as the real deal, owing to regulations stating that any product labelled ‘ice cream’ in the UK had to contain at least 5 per cent dairy fat and 2.5 per cent milk protein.

However, after the Food Information Regulations were reformed, this rule no longer applies. This change has allowed vegan alternatives such as Halo Top and Ben & Jerry’s vegan range of ice creams to be classed as just that, but at the peril of the dairy-loving population’s favourite frozen food.

The best way to ensure you’re getting the real deal? Stick to ice creams labelled ‘dairy ice cream’ for a dessert that hits the pre-2015 dairy targets - Asda Extra Special, Jude’s Clotted Cream Vanilla, Kelly’s of Cornwall and Waitrose Dairy Cream Vanilla are all certified dairy ice creams. Even better - make it yourself. Prior to popular belief, you don’t need any fancy gadgets or churners to make a lusciously smooth vanilla ice cream. Here are some of our favourite homemade ice cream recipes.