2006 Paolo Bea, Santa Chiara:A white wine blend that is fermented and aged on its lees; bronze color but not even a hint of oxidation; tannic, concentrated, textural wine with some naturally sweet fruit elements among a profile that is mostly earthy, peppery and mineral driven; intense, almost thick with a presence is arresting and an ethereal slant that is hard to describe. Fabulous with the gratin.

2003 Radikon, Ribolla Gialla (500 ml):The same color as the foregoing wine and another skin-contact white wine; aggressively dry in the mouth with high acidity and a thick, layered, deep series of flavors and textures that are as hard to describe as they are to isolate. Opens over the course of two hours and matches with the asparagus and salmon the best.

After dinner:1992 Belle, Hermitage:Showing very well with mostly game, decay and complex fruit notes on both the nose and palate with excellent balance, a precise structure and lots of length. A fine wine at its peak.