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BE CAREFUL WITH FLAT-HEAD SCREWDRIVER! Alternatively open it bare handed.

DO NOT SEPARATE THE TWO HALVES TOO WIDE YET AS THERE ARE DELICATE RIBBON CABLES CONNECTING THE TWO HALVES!

Push down where I am pointing out here. It should come apart fairly easily.

To open it bare handed, hold M65 with USB cord running straight downwards and force top surface of M65 upwards with your palm then pull M65's rear edge upwardly with your "hooked" fingers of the same hand.

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If you wish to go any further, please do so at your own risk. I have not gone further than this.

There are two screws that hold the PCB in place. One is longer than the other. The SHORT one goes to where I am pointing. The long screw holds down a grounding wire. Move the wire out of the way as you take out the board.

There is a ribbon cable that I am pointing at which you can pull out. There are some multi-colored wires that are plugged into the board. Wiggle it out. Move it to the side when you take the board out.

Now lift the PCB out along with the scroll wheel. There should be some more screws which hold the metal to the plastic. Undo those if you want to.

The sides come apart. You must take the mainboard out in order to take the sides off. There are two latches for the left side and four on the right side. The left side also has two screws securing it to the rest of the body.

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Dude, thank you so much for posting this. I broke the scroll wheel and I used this to disassemble the body to get it. If you could post a guid in how to actually fix the scroll wheel for anyone else that would be awesome.

Great guide! I only had a little bit of trouble reassembling it. The top part is hard to "click back" into the rest of the body. I finally did it, but couldn't notice what made them snap together.

I'd note something else too: I detached the TOP of the ribbon cable and it was a pain to attach it back, as you have to hold the 'lid' too and holding everything is awkward. What made it easier was to remove the PCB fixed by 2 screws in the 'lid', then attach the ribbon cable and then screw the PCB back into place.

Cheers!

P.S.: Xe Roy, you might have to unscrew the body PCB to lift it from the rest of the body. Else the scroll wheel is stuck and impossible to remove.

It's at the front, in-front of the left and right clicks, 1 latch in-front of each mouse buttons, like the ones on the side panels. Sliding the top part forward in place and then snapping on the back kinda helped.

Can't believe that this $70 "premium" gaming mouse uses an el-cheapo tact switch for the middle button. Looks like their casing design meant they couldn't cram another microswitch in there.

No wonder I keep seeing reviews and comments that the middle button click is failing.

Since I use middle-click near constantly, I've switched back to my $9 MS Wheelmouse Optical from 2008... I've had to turn the mouse acceleration up somewhat, it only does 800 dpi. But the middle button is at least a proper microswitch. Say what you like about their software, MS know how to commission good peripherals.