Been a while since I have been on other than lurking at work and thought I would update my progress and seek more wisdom from the board.* After a short TDY I took a couple weeks of leave. The generator is now running fine, I did have to cut an access door behind the fwd head, nothing wrong with the starter other than neglect, ran new wires, cleaned er up, bench tested, and put*er back on worked fine.**Raw water pump wasnt working, again neglect, *had my girls rebuild it,*pumps great.*Built and installed new cabinets in the galley, then started removing the teak deck.* Man what a pain in the ***, about 1/3 or so done with it; which brings me to my question(s).*The deck core seems to be in good shape, havent found any noticable soft spots, did find a couple of places with water under the teak,*should I lay down a layer of glass anyway, or just fill screw holes and apply whatever I choose to cover decks with? *Anyone have experience with Decko Dot for a deck covering, made by Nautolex, wondering how it performs, how it holds up, do the little dots get torn off by foot rotation, etc, etc.* What does the learned group think of this type of deck covering? Better to just paint with no skid?* Well there you have it not as many questions as before, but I am still just as long winded.

You should attempt to find out how the deck was constructed. A few boats actually have GRP (fiberglass ) decks , unfortunatly most seem to be plywood with a layer or two slathered on.

IF your decks are GRP , no harm will come from leaving the teak to die a slow death.

If the decks are "composite" and NOT SOFT and PUNKY , you have great luck .

IF The hundreds of screw holes thru the glass haven't rotted the core you can do a major rebuild to keep the teak "look."

Or if cruising is more important than a few hundred hours of scut work (that will need to be redone , when this application of sealant dies in 7 -10 years) , shovel it off and put on a layer of glass (if needed) and a good no skid system.