Random thoughts on food, cooking, restaurants, food products, food literature and kitchen equipment by Bobby Jay, a retired lawyer living in New York and Paris.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Paris - Suprêmes de Volaille

Last night I went to a simple but good restaurant in Paris and had the day's special (plat du jour): suprêmes de poulet aux morilles. It reminded me why the French think the breast is the best (hence suprême) part of the chicken: definitely not because it is lower in cholesterol than the dark meat but because, properly prepared, it is sublime.

I hunted for the recipe on the internet and in the Larousse Gastronomique, but what I was finding didn't seem right. Then I found what appears to be a perfect version in my old paperback copy of Julia Child's French Chef Cookbook, which features recipes made on her iconic TV show. The preparation is quick and easy, unlike many of Julia's: just (i) saute the mushrooms in a casserole in butter, (ii) add the chicken and poach in butter covered with parchment paper in a 400 degree oven for a few minutes, and put aside while keeping warm, (iii) add white wine to the sauce and reduce, then (iv) do the same with some cream. The key to success will be to start with really succulent tasty chicken breasts: while French quality chicken is hard to find in the US, we are far better off than when Julia wrote this in the '60s, and a really good farm-raised chicken should do nicely.

About This Blog

This blog records my thoughts and experiences relating to cooking, eating, restaurants, food products and ingredients, kitchen equipment and other matters relating to cuisine.
I do not offer reviews of New York restaurants; there are already enough reviewers and points of view. I will, however, discuss things that I discover at restaurants that may be of interest to others. I will offer brief reviews of selected Paris restaurants, as I am often asked for suggestions by people planning trips to that marvelous and beautiful city. In particular, I report from time to time on my ongoing quest for excellent, reasonably-priced restaurants in Paris; fortunately, there are many.