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Table Saw Decision

08-14-2002, 05:06 PM

I am considering buying a Ridgid Contractor Saw but I have a couple of questions. Since I found out the hard way that no other companies make accessories that are compatable with the Ryobi BT3000 I thought I should find out about the Ridgid before I buy it.

Do Biesmeyer and/or inca make a fence that will fit the Ridgid if I don't care for the one that comes with it?

Do standard tenonning jigs (ie: Delta) fit the Ridgid.

What about optional accessories like the inca miter fence?

Does Ridgid offer a router table attachment?

Thanks in advance for your prompt response. I need to make this decision pretty quickly since my Ryobi just dropped ANOTHER set of shims and is currently useless.

Both Biesemeyer and Incra make fences that will fit the Ridgid saw. The Delta tenoning jig will work with the saw. The Incra miter gauges will work just fine. Ridgid does not offer a router table attachment, however Bench Dog makes one that will bolt right to the saw.

Gregg

Comment

Having just gotten a 3612 I don't think you will need to get another fence system for the 3612. There is a hell of an improvement with this model.
I have used the Ryobi saw u have, i was very disappointed with it, glad i didn't buy it, alignment problems were unsolvable. I think you will be VERY happy if you decide on the 3612.

Comment

After using a Radial Arm Saw for the last 30 years (Craftsman, built by the same folks as Ridgid), I took the leap and just bought the Ridgid TS3612. I have a lot of years of woodworking, but little table saw experience to compare it with, but I have one thing to say - WOW! It is great. The current project will be a little smaller because I recut everything to get the straighter edges and smoother cuts.

The only problem I have found is the motor location - I forgot to allow for it in the plans, and my shop gets pushed to the garage wall each evening so the cars come back in. The motor sticking out the back makes for some really odd logistics with cars and space. In fact, I am sort of glad I forgot to consider the motor because I might not have bought the saw, and I'm very glad I have it!

Jake, when will you have a model that is just as smooth and accurate, but with the motor hidden?

Comment

CHARLIE P
I AM IN THE MARKET TO BUY A SAW. I AM BETWEEN A RADIAL ARM AND A TABLE SAW. WHAT DO YOU THINK IS THE BEST SAW BETWEEN THE TWO. I ONLY PLAN ON BUYING ONE. WHAT WILL BE THE BEST ALL AROUND SAW. FOR THE LAST 30 YEARS ALL I HAVE USED WAS A POWER HAND SAW, A DRILL AND A ROUTER. I JUST BOUGHT A CUT OFF SAW. THANKS

Comment

Probably the best answer is that I haven't made a single cut with my radial arm saw since I got the table saw.

Comparing the RAS to the table saw, I find that the rip cuts are FAR superior (straighter, smoother, more accurate) on the table saw, and most cross cuts on the table saw are very good. Personally, if I were starting over with the "ideal" shop I would get a table saw like the 3612 and a miter/chop/cutoff saw for those long thin boards that are a little hard to cut on a table saw.

Two other factors to consider:

1. The motor of the RAS is on top, blocking your view of the work, limiting your control of the piece, and blasting sawdust into the air rather than under the table. I never felt unsafe around the RAS despite the reputation as a hazard. But I think that reputation may have come from the motor on top. (How many times have I had to loosen my grip on the workpiece because the hand holding the work didn't fit under the motor as the other hand moved the motor/blade.)

2. Blades tend to pull the work into the blade. If you don't believe this, try a RAS without holding the work firmly, either Rip or Crosscut. If you want to see the really big projectile effect try it with a dado blade. Thus an imperfect grip lifts the work, and makes a cut too deep. On a table saw, the imperfect grip is less common (two hands available, no motor in the way), but it becomes a shallower rather than a deeper cut.

If your workshop is you garage, there is one downside to the table saw. I measured, and the 3612 didn't appear to take that much more space than my RAS - but I forgot to consider the motor sticking out the back. So each evening I have to turn the table saw to the wall, in the back left corner of the garage, with the motor sticking out 2/3 of the way down the saw. I pull the car in along side the 36 inch part of the table, up to the motor. Actually I back the car into that space, so the driver door opens in the center of the garage, with just a few inches clearance from the saw. Blocks of wood on the floor along the workbench and back allow parking by braille without hitting the saw. I am glad I have the new table saw, and will certainly keep it, but I might not have bought it if I had thought about the space problem.

Comment

DAVEM AND CHARLIE P
THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT. I AM SOLD ON THE TABLE SAW. THE PROBLEM NOW IS TO FIND A STORE THAT SELLS A 3612. I JUST GOT BACK FROM HD. THERE WAS A SAW ON DISPLAY WITH A STICKER, NOT A TAG, ON IT FOR $597.00 AND HAD THE MODEL # AS 3612. ON THE TABLE BASE OF THE SAME SAW WAS A DECAL THAT LISTED ALL OF THE SAW'S FEATURES BUT HAD A MODEL # 2424. ON THE BACK OF THE SAME SAW WAS A CARDBOARD DISPLAY PROMOTING $70.00 WORTH OF FREE ATTACHMENTS WHEN YOU BOUGHT THE 2424. I ASKED SEVERAL OF THE EMPLOYEES IF THIS WAS A 3612 OR A 2424. NO ONE KNEW THE ANSWER. THEY FINALLY GOT THE IMA (I GUESS HE IS THE MAIN BUYER). HE SAID THAT THE SAW IS A 3612 BUT IT IS REFERRED TO AS A 2424 BECAUSE OF THE FREE PROMOTIONAL ATTACHMENTS. HE SAID THAT RIDGID DOES STRANGE THINGS LIKE THIS. I THINK IT IS STARTING TO SNOW IN MICHIGAN IN AUGUST; BUT NOT FROM THE SKY.

Comment

Go back quick and buy it! The 3612 has the same Home Depot stock number as the 2424, so they tend to be clueless and confused. The 2424 had a bunch of free accessories (apparently to promote the old model) that are not included with the 3612. Since the price is always $597 for either saw, buy quick while you get the free goodies.

Comment

CHARLEY P
HOW CAN I TELL IF IT IS A 3612 OR A 2424. LIKE YOU SAID HD APPEARS TO BE USING THE SAME STOCK NUMBER FOR BOTH SAWS. FROM WHAT I HAVE READ ON THIS SITE THE 3612 IS A BETTER SAW. WHY? I DON'T KNOW. HD DOES NOT HAVE BOTH SAWS DISPLAYED TO COMPARE. IS THE 3612 REALLY MORE USER FRIENDLIER THAN THE 2424? DOES IT HAVE BETTER FEATURES THAT WOULD WARRANT THE COST DIFFERENTIAL IF ANY AND WOULD LATER MAKE ME WISH THAT I HAD SPRUNG THE EXTRA DOLLARS FOR THE 3612? LIKE I STATED BEFORE I GOT ALONG WITH A DRILL MOTOR, ROUTER AND A POWER HAND SAW; BUT NOW I WANT TO MAKE WOOD WORKING AND LIFE A LITTLE EASIER. I ALSO LIKE TO MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE IN EVERYTHING I BUY.

Comment

The box shows a TS3612 or TS2424 designation. The 3612 comes in 2 boxes; I don't know about the 2424.

The 3612 supports the rip fence 36 inches out on the right, and 12 inches out on the left, which is a lot more versatile than being able to cut 24 inch rips on either side of the blade, even though the blade only tips one way. (There apparently was a way to modify the 2424, but that wasn't the factory configuration). There are several other improvements in the 3612 that are getting good reviews, but I am not an expert on table saws so I just accepted the discussion that the 3612 was significantly better, and waited for the availability of the 3612. I like the saw very much.