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This is the 5th time i've used my brand new RT Pro, and for a while (about 1000 rounds a paint) it was working great, than after a game I hear it leaking. I check the tank and the O-ring on it, and it's fine. Than I notice that the leak is coming from down the barrel and the power feed. Lucky there was this kid there who knew a lot about mags. He took it apart,and saw that the spring on the bolt was bent, so that is what he thought was wrong with it. The bolt was factory installed and came with the X-valve. The kit came with two extra springs another silver one that is larger than the silver one that was already on the bolt, and one gold spring that was shorter than the one that was installed on it. So why is it leaking? Any input would be greatly apprieated b/c i'm going to skirmish this upcoming weekend, and my friend who is going has been having the same prob.

What i do is gas the gun up and it sounds fine. Then i pull the trigger, and the bolt doesn't even move forward, thats when it starts to leak out the power feed and barrel. Someone told me i should change the carrier 1/2 size down and leave the same O-ring that was in the old carrier and put it in the new one. Also i was using a medium size main spring, and i found that it was bent, compared to the other ones.

micromag + lvl 10 issues

So I just got my X-Valve from Action Village and worked on installing it Friday, Saturday, and Yesterday. After working out a lot of kinks (on/off pin replacement, constantly swapping carriers and shims, what is seemingly the usual deal w/ a lvl 10 install) I managed to get the gun to dry fire perfectly, vent correctly, and reset correctly. So I took it on to the field and got about 10 balls out of it before I ran into a final problem that I've yet to come up with a good solution for.

For those of you not familiar with the PTP Micromag bodies, basically the body of the gun is one piece of anodize aluminum that holds the sear and has the ball detent built in to the side of the body. The ball detent is a piece of plastic that is fixed to the outside of the micromag body in between to small holes by a metal pin. One tip of the ball detent rests inside the firing chamber just in front of where the balls feed, and the other side has a small hole drilled in it (but not all the way through) that sits on top of a spring and a ball bearing (about 3/4 the size of a BB). So, when you fire, the paintball pushes the ball detent out of the firing chamber and then the spring pushes it back, got it? Now that that's out of the way...

Basically my gun dry-fires fine, but when I try to shoot paint it seems as though the following happens:

1) A Paintball feeds in to the chamber.
2) When I pull the trigger, the bolt moves forward to fire, but apparently thinks that it is pinching a ball when really it is pushing the ball against the ball detent.
3) The LX vents and the bolt resets when I completely pull the trigger.
4) Go to step 1, repeat

Let it be known I have the one-line carrier in my X-Valve and two shims. I'm also using the smallest spring because I couldn't get my gun to fire with either of the other springs. I need to clip the mid-spring down but I lost my bolt cutters.

So I realize that I have to somehow reduce the amount of force the ball detent puts on the paintball so that the LX doesn't get confused anymore. Possibilities include removing the ball bearing and just using the spring, or clipping the spring. The problem with both is that I believe the spring is fully extended when the detent is in resting position, so I'm wondering if clipping it would do anything to make it softer...

no bounce

ok..
my level 10 works correctly in that it doesnt chop balls..but instead of stopping on balls and reseting itself it stops on balls and just sits there venting until I push the bolt back by hand.. ive experimented with spring sizes and shims but it does the same thing no matter what setup I have. anybody know what the problem could be?

Take a couple of steps up in the size of your carrier, put two shims in, and put middle (or smallest?) spring in and see what happens. Make sure you use the same carrier o-ring in the new setup as you are now. It sounds like there is too much resistance on the bolt. My marker was doing the same thing and I had to cut the middle spring down and go to a bigger carrier (I started at a 2 and it leaked, went to a 1.5).

I walk around collecting cans all day...hey, mind if I check your garbage?!?

Posts

284

Help!!!

I use my Lx with the smallest spring/stock spring and my mag works great. I've tried every carrier with the middle spring and can't get it to work properly; either it sticks or leaks if I go from the smallest to largest carrier!!! What am I doing wrong? The velocity is set at 250-260.

There should've been 3 springs in your LX kit, each of different length. I can't tell you which spring to use because it depends on the individual marker, there is no universal answer. All I can say is that if your LX is chopping paint (I'm guessing you're using the smallest spring) and you want it to stop, you can try going bigger. If you use a bigger spring, it puts more backward force on the bolt. That is, it's making the bolt move forward slower. So, switching out the spring you have in your lvl 10 to a longer one could move you more towards preventing chops because when it initially hits the ball and detects it, it will be moving at a slower speed, thus reducing the chance that it pinches it to death. If, however, you put a spring in that is too long, your gun won't fire.

If you switch to a smaller carrier there is more resistance in both the forward and backward cycle of the bolt, again making it move slower. If you put too small a carrier in, you'll get bolt stick.

Definately go shorter spring. Mine did the same thing and i figured out that the bolt didn't quit fit into my new armson barrel. So i went shorter spring and put a little oil on the inside of the barrel and played with it for about 4 entire days of paintball. Now the barrel and bolt match up fine and i went to a bigger spring.

NO! It goes plastic washer, carrier (o-ring first) then the shims(metal washers) then the power tube tip. Sometimes you don't even need the shims. Mine runs on 1.0 carrier with no shims and medium spring.

kinda new to fixing my automag and have never really touched one with a lvl10 until now.mine is double shooting.and it doenst seem like i can get the presure right.any idea's?anybody in jacksonville please e-mail me at tbrussell66@yahoo.com
thanks in advance.
travis

pretty sure. I went through all the carriers with one o-ring and they all leaked. Then i switched to one of the other carrier o-rings that came with the kit, started at 1.5, leaked a little, then went to 1.0 carrier, hasn't leaked since. i have 1.0 carrier, no shims and small spring. went through two cases of paint without one chop. and i use the cheap stuff, nelsplat, $30 a case.

on the air situation, get yourself a scuba tank with a fill station. can get a descent tank for about $100 on ebay. Fill station about $50. Then get the tank filled for $5 and it'll last a month, depending on how much you play. Worth it in the long run. charge your friends a couple bucks to fill their tanks! lol

remember, use the same carrier o-ring while tuning your level 10, only switch once you have used all the carriers and it leaks, like you have done.

Level 10 question

There is 4 springs in the level 10 kit,what is the longest
one, is it the one whit the cut of coil ?
What spring is most soft on paint?
What is the main purpose of the shims?

My setup at the moment is the #1 carrier , no shims and the longest visible spring.
I got no leaks,but im braking tons of paint on bolt and barrel,they always brake 1 cm in the barrel.
Chronoed at 280-290