Passenger side window goes down and not up, another electrical nightmare from Volvo. Cannot determine if theissue is in the master switch cluster or the passenger side switch assembly. Have two Volvos, both are Frankenstein electrical monsters. Drive train will never die, but the lousy cheap plastic pieces and the electrics are right out of hell.

My drivers side window got stuck down when i first got the car. I took it to the shop and got it fixed. A year later it got stuck again this time it got stuck up in 90 degree whether. I just said forget it. On top of the the defroster stopped working.

The "master window switch" on the drivers-side door is failing. Right now it won't operate the right-rear window. (But the switch in the right-rear door can still operate this window.) Plus this master switch may be "shorting out" as it emits the ozone smell sometimes when I operate the drivers door window. My LT Volvo mechanic wants $300 to replace it. But specifies he will only use a Volvo OEM part. He says aftermarket switches fail. Is this a fair price?

When the main window switch went out on my driver side I repeatedly would get my Sunroof and Windows stuck open then it would randomly work again. The solution I took as replacing it. I think it cost around $170. But its been almost 2 years ans they work just fine now.

Driver's side window wouldn't go down after having trouble initially with it, over a few weeks. One day I smelled something burning, and the window refused to go down. I figured it was a the driver's switch after googling this issue. Then after unlocking the car with key fob, the window just went down, but not back up. I found a used switch for $50, new is $150, and driver and front passenger windows work for now, but now the rear passenger window, which was working this morning, will not go back up. The junk yard says it's my car and not the used switch. Passenger switches don't work either in the back..This is an insane issue..

To the “Visitor” person with " ... 1998 Volvo S70 120,000 mi where the 'master window switch' on the drivers-side door is failing ... and the mechanic wants $300."

I think that's (unfortunately) $300 is probably a fair price. I have the same problem with my driver-door master switch. In my case the rear-passenger door can no longer be controlled from the driver-door master switch. (But the switch located in the right-rear door does still work for this window.) My mechanic won’t consider anything but an OEM part --- which is very expensive and constitutes the bulk of the repair price. I don’t love my mechanic but he’s competent and I trust him. I haven’t done this repair yet --- but I probably will. The car is in great shape and has no hidden mechanical issues. But its “blue book” is about zero. Except that it’s reliable and safe and good for many more years. And I only use it “around town” so I really can’t justify strapping myself onto an asset investment for new car for $35,000+ or for buying a “new” Volvo. (Or for buying some used Volvo or BMW which might have some hidden mechanical issues.) So I will probably have to bite the bullet and invest about $1750 in normal maintenance (with this replacement master window switch) to keep the old beast running properly even though it will still be worth “zero” when I get through with this exercise. (This “normal maintenance “ includes tires, battery, the “major” service”, wheel alignment, etc.) Please give me your thoughts on this conundrum.

Master switch has been replaced three times -- first two with volvo parts (the second under warranty which was nice), third time with switch doctor after market (Chesapeake but w/ridiculously bright neon green lights!!) Now passenger rear is shot - window won't come back up. Going to try replacing just the rear switch and hope it's not the master again.

The window assembly stopped working window went down and didn't go back up just as a rain storm was coming thru. I was smelling a burning smell coming from somewhere couldn't pinpoint location till windows stopped working. Thinking it was a fuse looked under hood in fuse box and found out where burning smell was coming from.malfunctioning driver side window switch was causing my fuse panel to overheat and was starting to melt.long story short...took out fuse ordered another switch from switch doctor replaced it and problem was gone.

The master power- window switch unit in the driver's door has the following problems --- it won't raise/lower the rear passenger-side windows. (But the switch in the rear passenger side door still works.) This has not been fixed. The whole unit needs replacement. Please advise me of the reported charges for parts and labor.