100 'whacky ways' that work. Maybe only 10... Wrapped in plastic wrap [garbage bag], duct taped, embedded in hotglue, hotglued, thick clear theft prevention plastic [like the soldering iron might have come packaged in] trimmed to fit the box's ID's [or anywhere I want insulation, electrical tape [though this can be punched through by a point of solder], a screw with a section of inkpen shell as the 'riser/spacer', 1 screw pins the board between the top of the cylinder of plastic and the bottom of the screwhead..they even make perfboard clip buttons with superstik adhesive pads...I just don't trust 1 part adhesives for long term use though....even without the adhesive the board wouldn't touch bottom, usually it's the electrolytics that are the tallest [lol] first thing to touch something above the board [they seem to be insulated too].

I use 3m double sided tape. Its thin but strong, solder wont punch through. I usually leave the backing on, i just cover the back of the board with the tape to prevent shorts, but you can stick it down as well.

Some people use screws and metal standoffs with JB weld or some other epoxy to affix them to the enclosure.

Having built pedals and modded pedals for a living for about a year, I have done all of the above. I don't like the plastic stand-offs too much because once your PCB is on there, it's almost impossible to get the PCB off the thing. Free floating for my own personal builds is OK, but I wouldn't do that for any pedal meant for someone else's use.

My favorite method is using PCB mounted pots/switches soldered to the PCB and having them hold the PCB to the enclosure. Works great.

What I meant was that I used metal standoffs attached to the board with screws and attached to the enclosure with JB weld. I don't trust the plastic standoffs because the adhesive backing seems like something that will dry out over time. But JB welding the plastic standoffs is something that never occurred to me.

It's actually done the very way you describe but i show a nylon screw into the aluminum standoff. When i glue the standoffs in i use the nylon screws with the hope that if JB Weld does get onto the threads i'll still be able to easily back the screw out after things have set up. I just use a bit of JB at first, let it set up, take the board out and reinforce the standoff with some more of the JB Weld with no worry of contaminating the threads.

dave

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"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown

i use teflon wire, which is VERY firm (it almost feels like a thick solid core). by the time there are a few hookup wires it just stays in place. then i make sure that if it was ever pushed it wouldn't short by putting a plastic sheet on the bottom panel, and in this case a rubber cover on the pot: