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Trip and Surf Journal: Thu 4.4 (day 20ish?)

So, this is a surfy post. Trying to heal this rib muscle/cart something or other going on. Super focused on not modeling complaining or whining behavior related to physical distress in the environment, own the actions, the reactions of the body, no blame, no whine, etc. All good. Until I CANT SURF WHEN I AM IN THE SWEET SPOT INTERMEDIATE ZONE WHERE ALL I DREAM ABOUT IS THE RUSH OF THE DROP AND THE SWEET FEEL OF THE CARVE/TURN IN GREEN WATER AND JUST WANT MORE!. Sigh, another lesson . . . whatever here is a guy selling stuff. He doesn’t give a crap, nor should he.

So I hit it today tides are all whack and swell pretty low but fun to hit the local “lowest tide spot” of Dreamland — local beach break not reef. I have the back door entry dialed from the Villa, walk a dirt path and dodge cow dung and scamper down a cliff and end up on the same beach that has been developed into a nightmare zone all around. Still beautiful, but was probably once like Padang or Bingin or something and now, is not. Oh well. If you go dawn patrol and have a coffee at a warung with a local and try to speak Indo and they try to speak English and then you smile and end up on a dirt path and then there is beach and ocean who cares what beast of a hotel is behind you . . . and then when you finish you go up there and poach the shower, ahhh . . . you can take the dirtbag out of cali or the U.S. or skiing/climbing/biking . .. but you can’t take the dirtbag out of the dirtbag, errrr, or something like that. Dirtbag instincts run high and crossover. I love that I rock a 75 cent plastic bucket in the Avanza (car) now — that is a “porta-shower”. NO I WILL NOT PAY 3000 RUPIAH (30 CENT) FOR A SHOWER, I WILL FILL MY BUCKET FOR FREE AND DUMP IT ON MY HEAD AND FEET!.

Family was toast, and did a villa day. All good. I got a fantastic Padang afternoon session in, except that I ripped so hard that I re-whacked my RIB, damn. More to come on that.

The pics in this post have nothing to do w/ the post for the most part, just random pic shares :)