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Clutch wheelies are better than power/bounce wheelies because you can do them without accelerating (much); in tight areas, at very low speed, and they are much smoother than power wheelies both on the way up and down. You can also ride them out much longer and shift into higher gears.

Steps

1

You don't need a very powerful bike. You can definitely clutch wheelie a 500 cc sport bike, it just takes higher revs.

Stock gearing is fine, however, with this setup it can't clutch up in 2nd. You'll need a 520 kit for that. (To clutch up in second with less bouncing, try going -1 on the front sprocket, and +2 on the rear.

If you buy these sprockets in 525 pitch, you will be able to change them and use the stock chain).

(Edit: The chain length will be correct, but you cannot use a 520 chain on 525 sprockets, or vice versa.)

2

Sit comfortably, upright on the bike. You don't have to slide back for this trick. "It is possible to pull a wheelie at 70 mph (110 km/h) in 3rd gear on a gsxr-600." This will take more practice, but it is very possible.

3

Drive at a steady pace around 1500-2000rpm. (Should be about 10-20mph).

4

When you are ready for liftoff, quickly open up the throttle and accelerate. This is VERY important because it compresses your rear suspension. It's very difficult to clutch a wheelie without compressing rear suspension first. You're not trying to build up speed! Starting at low RPMs is very important. If you start a clutch wheelie at 5000RPM, it will be very difficult and you'll red line long before you go vertical. Power comes from low RPM.

5

Almost immediately after accelerating, pull clutch in enough to disengage and let the engine rev to about 6000RPM. You can do this slow at first, eventually it becomes an instantaneous motion.

6

Quickly release the clutch at about 80%. This is the hardest part. You HAVE to release fast. You'll know you released too fast when your RPM drops down to 2000 - this means you released too fast. Practice, practice, practice. When you get it right it will feel like you have hydraulics on your front wheel and pop right up (much quicker and smoother than a power-bounce wheelie).

7

Once you master this, your bike should be popping up a little bit. The next step is throttle control.

While releasing the clutch, add throttle. If you want to go big - vertical - and stay there - the big thing to learn is that you can not let go of the throttle OR the clutch. You will control height of the wheelie with your clutch at this point.

8

So once again.. once comfortable with the clutch release motion, start giving it lots of throttle. You should be able to keep it up in 1st gear for a few seconds without any problems. The higher you go the longer you stay up.

9

Once you get good, you won't have to rev before you clutch. Do them at the same time.

Apart from the torque reaction, no. Although, you might want to think about the weight of your bike. If it's a biggie, it is critical to wind the throttle on (and have revs left to do so) as the front comes down. You do not want to be dropping something like an FJR repeatedly on its head bearings!

A 373 cc engine, two-stroke or four-, has way more than enough power. I've seen people doing wheelies with scooters and Vespas. A smaller bike is easier and safer to learn on, then you can move up to bigger bikes.

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Tips

Only put one finger for the clutch; it only needs a tiny bit of pressure. Once you're up, apply the rear brake to find the balance then fan out between throttle and brake to ride it out.

If you feel the bike going a little too far back, try tapping the back brake a little instead of chopping the throttle, this will let you keep your rpms up so you don't slam the front end and blow a fork seal.

Releasing clutch too slow or not enough. You have to let it out in one quick motion, just a flick. Think of the clutch as your foot kicking the back tire. If you kick it your foot will bounce off...if you just push your foot into, even with a lot of force, it won't bounce back.

Practice giving it lots of throttle and more clutch. Just don't loop it!

520, 525, 530 chain sizing makes no difference at all. 520 is mostly utilized in racing to reduce mass from the rotating chain.

Warnings

It's best to learn wheelies on a small dirt bike. Street bikes are heavier and more powerful; they can hurt you more easily and are a lot more expensive to fix when you fall.

Riders of above-average skill frequently fall (crash) when stunt riding. You don't have to flip the bike to hurt yourself badly. Trust your instincts and don't let others pressure you into wheelies or other stunts.

Using the clutch to wheelie will eventually destroy your clutch, chain, and sprockets, so make sure to check them for damage before and after each practice session.

Most insurance companies WILL NOT cover damage done while "riding unsafely", which does include stunting, so be prepared to pay for everything you break.

Wheelies are REALLY dangerous. Doing them on public roads is irresponsible and can easily cost you your license, or even your life. Proceed with care!

When practicing wheelies, assume whatever object is, or will be within 500 feet (152.4 m) of your direction of travel, you WILL hit. Remember, you have no steering and no front brakes whatsoever when on one wheel. Even when your front wheel comes down, your shocks are compressed, therefore no brakes until they decompress.(Edit:The position of the suspension has no bearing on the operation of the brakes.) (Edit: The front brake will work just fine with the front suspension compressed. The problem is inertia. If you slam on the front brakes the back will start to come up. This effect is increased with the suspension compressed and you wind up in the "endo" stunt position. If you are meaning to do this and can control it, fine. If not, you just wrecked your bike and possibly injured yourself.) This could take 100 feet (30.5 m) depending on speed! Make sure the path is clear at all times!!

Things You'll Need

Helmet, gloves, protective pants and jacket. You probably won't loop your bike but be ready for the worst. Frame sliders are also recommended.

A special "stunt cage" is available for many bikes. It's an external frame that protects the bike from hitting pavement.

A special bar can also be installed on the rear. Also known as a 12-bar. This prevents the bike from going beyond vertical.

Stunt riding should be practiced only on a closed course with proper preparation (gear, insurance, and someone to provide first aid and call paramedics if needed).

Article Info

wikiHow is a “wiki,” similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are co-written by multiple authors. To create this article, 25 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time.