3X00-Modified wrote:The PCM outputs a voltage signal... The fact that your gauge displays an Analog RPM does not mean you can't feed that signal into the tach. The only thing you will have to do is verify the "cylinder" setting on the tach results in the proper RPM output. A V6 setting may not work if the tach is expecting to see a specific voltage range... but I believe the PCM output should be correct.

The PCM has a different wave length pulse then what my tach can read, My tach reads from 4 to 6 to 8 cyl engines but since there is no converter for the pulse rate, i need to get a tach adapter; http://www.autozone.com/gauges-and-gaug ... 373324_0_0 ; but in simple terms, i need to get the tach signal directly from the coil packs.

The 1996 ICM has 3 coils, each coil fires 2 times per revolution as each coil fires for two cylinders at once (waste spark).I don't believe the ICM has an output tach signal like the older style distributors do for 4-6-8 cylinder, but if the tach you purchased supports GM vehicles 4-6-8, it should still function if you connect the input wire to the correct tach signal wire on the vehicle, the tach should also have its own power and ground that needs connected as well. There might also be a switch for 4-6-8 on or in the tach to select which one you have.

What is the Model Number or part number to the Tach you bought?

The easiest way would be to buy a 96 Beretta OBD2 factory tach cluster and swap it into your vehicle, then buy the Oil pressure sensor for the gauge (not the light) and swap that in, the odometers are swappable too however the speedometer dial needs to be removed to get the odometer out of the tach cluster. 99% plug and play.Just make sure it is a 1996 OBD2 3100 v6 auto cluster, if its the 4 cylinder or 95 and older it will not work.

I talked with someone when I went to a classic car show and he told me that the most accurate and easiest way is using the adapter, at this point I'm just waiting for having the money to buy the tach adapter. Recently had to repair my parking brake line.

I think your wasting your money, but I already said that when I stated exactly what GT_Indy did above telling you to just do the factory cluster since it would be way cheaper and plug and play. But whatever, hopefully it works for your sake but I do not have a "tach adapter" between the ECU signal and my progressive controller so I'm not sure why that guy you spoke to thinks you need it.