child of god, lover of sharon, father of 5, future farmer...oh, and i play a little guitar too.

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

surf report: pleasure point

ok....surf report.....we went to pleasure point this morning....the bigger surf spot i told you about last time. i still had a little trepidation about the cliff and the rocks and stuff...but i braved it anyways. it was a lot easier today. i didn't fall...and i didn't feel like i was going to fall either. ace! the sky's were clear and blue...sun was out. and yours truly caught two waves, full on. all i wanted was to NOT get skunked today...and i did better then that! awesome. it was practically a scene from endless summer (thanks bob). so i feel good. more confident about going back there next time. i guess it did help that i reviewed my 'how to surf pleasure point' article in surfing magazine. ha! i know...i'm a dill. but seriously...it was a great morning. i had my pico pica with my homemade burritos. all is well with the world....less of me...more of you!