adjust text size:

Service Slants

Time-saving solutions to service issues on domestic and imported cars, light trucks and vans, based on information contained in OE and aftermarket service bulletins.

Honda

Long crank times, hard starting. Some 2003-04 Honda Accords with the V6 engine may experience excessively long crank times before the engine will finally start. Honda attributes the condition to one of two scenarios—a stuck fuel pressure regulator, which causes a delay in fuel pressure buildup at start-up, or exhaust gas backflow into the intake manifold at the previous engine shutdown, which results in a bad air/fuel mix in the cylinders on the next crank cycle. Honda’s recommended fix: replacing the pressure regulator with an improved unit (Part No. 16015-SDB-A00) and/or reprogramming the PCM with new software.

Before you do anything, look up the year and VIN of the car in your stall. If it’s a 2004 model and its VIN range is either 1HGCM8…4A018621 through 1HGCM8…4A024092 or 1HGCM6…4A068600 through 1HGCM6…4A100943, the updated pressure regulator has already been installed. So just flash the PCM with a new calibration using an HDS operating at software level 2.004.004 or later. After the reprogramming job, you’ll have to perform an idle relearn, a low-rpm CKP pattern relearn and a high-rpm CKP pattern relearn to complete the fix.

If the car you’re working on isn’t in the year and VIN ranges noted above, there’s a good chance that the fuel pressure regulator is loaded with crud and sticking, or sticking intermittently. To make that determination, hook up a fuel pressure gauge, start the engine, let it run for a few minutes, then shut the engine down and look at the pressure gauge. Fuel pressure should be 55 to 63 psi and should hold for a good, long period of time. If the pressure bleeds off substantially over a couple of minutes or so, install the improved fuel pressure regulator as follows:

Start by relieving the residual pressure from the fuel system. Next, remove the locknut, followed by the fuel pump module from the tank. Now disconnect the fuel sending unit connector, release the three clips, then separate the pump module from the lower case to expose the pressure regulator. Using the illustration above as reference, spread the mount clips and remove the pressure regulator together with its mount from the pump module. Remove the large circlip, then disengage the regulator from its mount. Reverse the procedure to install the new regulator using three new O-rings, as shown.

Continue the job by assembling the pump module to the lower case, then reconnect the sending unit connector. Install the pump module back into the tank using a new gasket (Part No. 17046-SDA-A30), then tighten the locknut to 69 ft.-lbs. To complete the fix, reprogram the PCM with updated software as outlined above, perform the three relearn procedures, then start the vehicle several times to verify that the starting difficulties have been resolved.

Toyota

Intermittent starting troubles with possible MIL illumination. Owners of some 2005-06 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia and Tundra trucks (all with the 2UZ-FE engine) may come into your shop with an intermittent no-start complaint. According to Toyota, the starting difficulties almost always occur after a hot soak and may be accompanied by an illuminated MIL with codes P0335 and/or P01340 stored in PCM memory. An intermittent cam sensor signal is the most likely cause of the trouble. Installing an upgraded cam sensor (Part No. 19300-50030) should put the starting issues permanently to bed.

Chevrolet

MIL illuminated, evap code logged. Some 2011-13 Volt models may turn on the MIL and log evap DTC P0497 in PCM memory. One possible cause of the evap woes, says Chevy, is the customer overfilling the gas tank coupled with a 20°F or greater ambient temperature swing over a two-day period.

Start your diagnosis by questioning the customer about his refueling habits. If he admits to going three clicks or more past the initial click of the fuel nozzle at a station and the ambient temperature varied by greater than 20°, chances are good that an evap component (canister, vacuum pump, solenoids, etc.) is saturated with fuel. Check all the components and replace as necessary. It’s also vitally important that you thoroughly blow out all the evap lines with compressed air. Even a little liquid fuel in the lines can cause the DTC to reset, says Chevy, so be extra diligent here.

If you do everything by the book and the evap code stores hard again, remove the fuel sender from the tank and check for a disconnected evap line to the sender. If the line is disconnected, simply reconnect it. If the line is connected, you’ll have to dig further into the evap system to root out the reason for the code.

Chrysler

Whistling or hissing noise from power steering system. Some 2003-04 PT Cruisers may produce a whistling or hissing sound from the power steering system when the steering wheel is turned. According to Chrysler, the noise usually increases in intensity the slower the vehicle is moving, and it attributes the condition to design flaws in the power steering hoses. Installing a new power steering hose assembly that includes new-design pressure and return hoses (Part No. 05272319AJ) should eliminate the annoyance in short order.

Dodge Truck

Water leak at passenger-side footwell. Some 2001-03 Durango and 2001-04 Dakota trucks may accumulate water in the passenger-side footwell area whenever the air conditioning system is turned on. One likely reason for the leak, says Dodge, is a small gap in the foam gasket that’s used to seal the HVAC case to the bulkhead. The gap allows condensation from the evaporator to run along the outside of the drain tube and into the interior. Sealing the evaporator hose and drain tube opening at the bulkhead at the rear of the engine compartment with a bead of RTV sealant (Part No. 04467708 or equivalent) should stop the leak immediately.

Chevrolet

Difficulty filling gas tank, MIL on, evap DTC logged. Some owners of 2004-07 Malibu Maxx models may complain that a gas pump nozzle continually clicks off when they’re trying to fill the fuel tank. They may also comment that the MIL is on when the fueling difficulty occurs. If you hook up your scanner you’ll likely find DTC P0446 logged in computer memory. Chevy says all of these troubles are likely caused by the evap canister vent valve solenoid being clogged with insect nests, dirt or other debris. Cleaning the solenoid and air chamber and installing a fine screen over the fresh air inlet tube should eliminate the trouble.

Begin the job by raising the car on a lift. Now remove the evap canister vent solenoid from the vehicle. Pry up on the lock tab, rotate the solenoid clockwise and pull it out of the air chamber. Now inspect both the air chamber and solenoid. If you see an insect nest or debris, remove it with a soft brush. Now go down to your local hardware store and purchase a piece of fiberglass screening. Cut it to 4x4 in., then center it over the inlet tube opening and fold it toward the air chamber. Using a tie strap, secure the screen to the tube. Attach the solenoid to the air chamber by rotating it counterclockwise until the lock tab latches. To complete the repair, reinstall the canister vent solenoid into the vehicle.

GM

Brake noise, pedal pulsation, uneven brake pad wear. A 2005-08 Chevy Cobalt, 2006-08 Chevy HHR or 2007-08 Pontiac G5 model may come into your shop with front brake noise and a pedal pulsation complaint from the owner. When it does, examine the thickness of the front pads, says GM. If the inner pad is worn much more than the outer, dirt, small stones or other debris are getting between the inner pad and rotor, leading to the symptoms noted. Installing a new-design shield in place of the spacer between the hub/bearing and steering knuckle should eliminate the brake concerns immediately. Here are the part numbers for the new shield:

GM Truck

Blower motor inoperative. The blower motor on some 2007-08 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra extended cab and crew cab trucks built before 4/1/08 may not respond when the switch is turned on. If the wiring up to the motor has power, says GM, the motor has probably fried, and water intrusion is the likely culprit. Installing a new-design blower motor with an integral moisture shield (Part No. 25973845) should eliminate further trouble.

Jeep

Cruise control operates erratically. Drivers of some 2011 3.7L Liberty trucks with the 42RLE automatic transmission built before 5/31/11 may comment that their cruise control system doesn’t activate or activates, then inadvertently turns off for no apparent reason. They may also tell you that the system runs perfectly after the engine is shut down and restarted.

According to Jeep, the MIL won’t illuminate when the cruise system troubles start, but DTC P0591 may be logged in computer memory. Software gremlins in the PCM are the cause of the erratic behavior. Reprogramming the module with updated calibration files is the only sure-fire remedy. To do the flash, you’ll need a wiTECH scanner operating at software release 12.01 or higher.

Mazda

Front tires spin and/or warning lamp flashes on dash. Drivers of some 2007-12 CX-9 SUV models with the 4WD system may complain that the front tires spin when they drive uphill or accelerate briskly from a stop. They may also comment that the 4WD/DSC warning light on the dash flashes with or without the tire-spinning episode. On investigation, you’ll probably find that the MIL isn’t illuminated and that there are no DTCs stored in computer memory. One likely cause of the trouble, reports Mazda, is a damaged transfer unit.

To make a definitive diagnosis, you’re going to need two fellow techs. Start things off by having one of your buddies get in the vehicle, then raise the SUV on a lift. Next, have him set the parking brake (to lock the rear wheels), turn the ignition switch to On and place the shift lever into Drive. Now tell him to depress and hold the accelerator pedal down to engage the electronic control coupling while you and the other tech spin the front tires in the same direction. Does the rear propeller shaft turn? If it does, this information doesn’t apply; continue troubleshooting until the cause of the trouble is found. If the rear prop shaft doesn’t turn, that means that the transfer unit is smoked. Replacing the unit with an improved version (Part No. AW21-27-500H-9U) should eliminate the tire spinning and the flashing dash light.

Chrysler

Long crank times, MIL illuminated, thermostat DTC set. Some 2011 Dodge Journeys, Avengers and Caravans, as well as Chrysler 200 and Town & Country models (all with the 3.6L engine and 62TE automatic transmission), may exhibit overly long crank times when the coolant temperature is below 131°F, the ambient temperature is below 50°F and the engine has been shut down for 7 minutes or less. When you get the vehicle in your shop, there’s a good chance you’ll find the MIL on and DTC P0128 (thermostat rationality) stored hard or pending in the PCM.

One likely cause of the trouble, says Chrysler, is a significant difference between the predicted and actual coolant temperatures during engine warm-up. Software gremlins in the PCM, ultimately, are the culprits. Reprogramming the module with an updated calibration is the only reliable fix. To do the flash, you’ll need a wiTECH scanner operating at software release 11.02 or higher.

Toyota

Dome light gremlins. Drivers of some 2001-02 Sequoia SUVs may complain that the truck’s rear dome light flickers or stays on continuously. According to Toyota, the problem always occurs when the switch is set to the Door position and is caused by a short circuit in the dome lamp assembly. Installing a redesigned dome light (Part No. 81240-0C030) should eliminate the problem in short order. Trucks built on or after VIN 5TD#T##A92S090584 already have the updated dome light installed.

Nissan

Transmission doesn’t upshift when cruise control is engaged. Nissan reports that the transmissions on some 2000-01 Sentra models may not upshift when the cruise control system is switched on. According to the Japanese carmaker, the problem usually occurs just after cresting a hill, can last for several minutes and is due to a misadjusted cruise control cable. Readjusting the cable is the simple remedy.

Start the job by loosening the cruise control cable’s adjusting nut and locknut. Next, check the throttle cable and adjust it, if necessary. Now lift the throttle drum and gently pull the cruise cable toward the passenger side of the vehicle until all slack is removed. Tighten the cable’s adjusting nut fully, back off the nut a half to a full turn, then tighten the locknut. When properly adjusted, the cruise control cable shouldn’t be under any tension and the rubber grommet on the locknut side of the cable should be positioned on the outer portion of the threaded rod.

Sentras that are prone to the upshift difficulties include all models with the SR20 engine, as well as cars with the QG18 engine that were built before 8/7/01.

Acura

Rearview mirror shakes or vibrates. Acura reports that the rearview mirrors on some of its 1999-2008 cars and SUVs may vibrate or shake at the windshield. The luxury carmaker attributes the problem to a deformed mounting spring at the base of the mirror bracket. Installing a new-design spring (Part No. 76419-SZ3-J05) into the bracket should eliminate the condition in short order.

Start the job by removing the rearview mirror from the windshield. Now turn the mirror over and remove the spring retaining screw, then the old spring from the mounting bracket. Install the new spring into the bracket, making sure the wiring harness isn’t pinched. Reinstall the screw and tighten it, making sure the spring is fully bottomed in the bracket. To complete the repair, reinstall the mirror to the windshield.

Vehicles that are susceptible to the mirror issue and can benefit from the upgraded mounting spring are 1999-2003 3.2 TLs, 2001-03 CLs & MDX SUVs and 2004-08 TL sedans.

To determine which part to replace, hook up your scanner and a manual fuel pressure gauge, get to the datastream on the scan tool and compare the fuel pressure readings on the gauge with those on the tool. If the readings differ by more than 73 psi, check the integrity of the wiring to the fuel pressure sensor. If the wiring is bad, fix it; if the wiring is okay, replace the fuel pressure sensor. If the pressure differential between the scanner and the gauge is less than 73 psi, go ahead and replace the high-pressure pump.

Ford

Front suspension noise while turning. Owners of some 2005-07 Ford Five Hundred, Freestyle or Mercury Montego models may complain of a scraping or screeching sound from the front end while turning the steering wheel at speeds below 10 mph. One likely cause of the noise, says Ford, is a defect in one or both strut mounts. Replacing the mount on both sides of the car with an improved unit (Part No. 5F9Z-18183-B) should eliminate the condition immediately.

Note: When removing the old mounts, note the position of the notches and arrows, then install the new mounts in the same orientation. Ford recommends replacing all of the fasteners that were removed when the front struts came out.

Toyota

Squeak from brake pedal. Some 2004-07 Prius hybrids may produce a squeaking sound when the brake pedal is applied or released. Toyota reports that the noise is most obvious when the key is in the Ready mode and the vehicle is not moving, and is due to a defective ABS brake actuator. An upgraded actuator is available to address the noise issue.

Before ordering the new actuator, however, bleed the braking system. If the noise goes away, you’ve fixed the problem. If the noise remains after the bleeding procedure, go ahead and replace the actuator with the new-design unit. Order Part No. 44500-47090 for 2004-05 models, 44500-47140 for 2006-07 vehicles.

Honda

Front end noise over bumps or rough roads. Some 2003-08 Element crossover models may emit a clanking or knocking sound from the front suspension while going over bumps or rough road surfaces. The likely cause, says Honda, is cracks or deterioration in the lower control arm bushings. Installing beefier, more durable bushings from a service kit (Part No. 04513-SCV-000, includes left and right bushings) on both sides of the vehicle should eliminate the noise issue. In addition to the new bushings, Honda recommends replacing both upper arm clips (Part No. 90701-SX0-003), and on 2007-08 vehicles only, the four lower control arm flange bolts and nuts (Part Nos. 90118-SCV-A00 and 9002-S10-000, respectively).

Elements that can benefit from the new suspension parts are all 2003-07 models; 2008 2WD models built from VIN 5J6YH1…8L000001 through 5J6YH1…8L017044; and 2008 4WD models built from VIN break-point 5J6YH2…8L000001 through 5J6YH2…8L019754.

Kia

Power steering system varies assist. Drivers of 2005 Sorento models with electronic power steering (EPS) may complain of intermittent hard steering during parking or while driving. According to Kia, the problem affects only vehicles built before 10/6/04 and may be accompanied by DTC C1012 in the EPS control module. A faulty vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is the most likely cause of the trouble.

Installing an improved VSS (Part No. 96420 4A600) along with an extension harness (Part No. 91400 3E999) should eradicate the steering trouble. After the new parts are installed, secure the extension harness with a nylon tie to prevent interference with moving parts.

Jeep

Insufficient or no a/c cooling. Owners of 2011 Grand Cherokees built before 7/3/10 may complain that their air conditioning system doesn’t blow cold enough or doesn’t work at all. One likely cause of the condition, reports Jeep, is a low refrigerant charge. A weld deformity inside the liquid line that results in a leak at the service port is the probable reason for the low refrigerant.

To check things out, start the engine and turn on the a/c system. If the compressor clutch won’t engage, add enough refrigerant until it does. Now remove the cap from the liquid line’s service port. Using a bubble solution or an electronic detector, check for a leak at the service port. If there’s no leakage, this info doesn’t apply, and you should continue searching for the cause of the low refrigerant charge. If the service port is leaking, replace the liquid line and O-ring seal with updated units (Part Nos. 55038059AF and 68086125AA, respectively).

Acura

Clicking noise when turning steering wheel. Some 2010-13 TSX models may produce an irritating clicking sound from the upper steering column when the steering wheel is turned left or right. One likely cause of the noise, says Acura, is burrs on the steering angle sensor cancel cam spring. The burrs cause the spring to intermittently bind against the combination switch body, and that’s what causes the annoying click. The spring isn’t available separately, so you’ll have to replace the complete steering angle sensor assembly (Part No. 35251-TA0-B11) to eliminate the condition. Acura recommends also replacing the two Torx bolts (Part No. 90134-S6A-A80) that hold the sensor in place.

TSX vehicles that are prone to the clicking noise include all 2010-12 models, 2013 inline Four models built from VIN JH4CU2…DC000001 through JH4CU2…DC005211, 2013 V6 models built from VIN JH4CU4…DC000001 through JH4CU4…DC000063 and 2013 Sport Wagons built from VIN JH4CW2…DC000001 through JH4CW2…DC000007.

Nissan

Front suspension noise. Some 2004-10 Nissan trucks (full vehicle list below) may emit a clunk, squeak or pop from the front end while turning, being driven over rough roads or accelerating or decelerating. One likely cause of the noise, reports Nissan, is a prematurely worn front stabilizer bar bushing. The problem can occur on one or both sides of the vehicle. Replacing both bushings with an updated design should eliminate the ruckus.

Vehicles that are susceptible to the condition are 2004-10 Armada SUVs and Titan pickups, and 2005-10 Frontier pickups and Pathfinder & Xterra SUVs. Here are the parts specifics for the upgraded stabilizer bar bushings:

Toyota

Noise from front brakes. Drivers of some 2003-07 Corolla and Matrix models may complain that the front brakes squeak or squeal when they hit the pedal while traveling slowly in Reverse. One probable cause of the noise, says Toyota, is the brake pads vibrating in the caliper mounts. Installing upgraded mounts, brake pad support plates and bushing dust boots should vanquish the noise. Order Part Nos. 47721-02141 for the new caliper mounts, 04947-02120 for the support plates and 47775-02090 for the new dust boots.