tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2035345515567609442014-10-06T20:22:49.736-07:00How To Grow TomatoesStep-by-step advice and tips on how to grow tomatoes you can use to help you substantially increase your crop's health and yield. Not only that - your tomatoes will have more flavour and be a lot sweeter than you've tasted from a store bought variety.BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.comBlogger27125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-20038008833812341632009-03-28T06:00:00.000-07:002009-06-30T07:39:35.916-07:00How to Plant TomatoesIn this instructional video Dave talks with Teri Volante about how to give your tomatoes the best possible start in life.<br /><object classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" id="howcastplayer" width="425" height="272"><param name="movie" value="http://www.howcast.com/flash/howcast_player.swf?file=165299"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.howcast.com/flash/howcast_player.swf?file=165299" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="425" height="272"></embed></object><br /><br /><a href="http://www.podcastalley.com/"> My Podcast Alley feed!</a> {pca-1b148f5688c726a68cad5b82a8d4ae3f}<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/Yse2VwqOE3M" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com2http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2009/03/how-to-plant-tomatoes.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-47379932930485826692009-03-27T04:52:00.000-07:002009-03-27T06:16:11.580-07:00Growing Tomatoes - Heirloom Vs Hybrid Varieties<div id="body"><p>Tomatoes from the grocery store shelves taste like-NOTHING! Why? Most of the tomatoes purchased from grocery stores have been harvested days before they reach the grocery, treated to turn red, and bred to stay firm and not bruise on the shelves. Plant breeding for the last fifty years has concentrated on producing a tomato that can survive anything-except for a taste test.</p><p>Gardeners and tomato aficionados alike have given up on the produce aisle for anything other than garnish. Instead, they turn to seed and plant catalogues to find tasty varieties to grow. When viewing a plant catalogue of tomato seed sources, you will be confronted with hundreds of varieties. Huge and tiny, purple, red, yellow and orange tomatoes. Perfectly round, almost flat, and lemon-shaped tomatoes. Seed catalogues highlight another variable to understand regarding tomato growing: heirloom versus hybrid tomatoes.</p><p><b>Heirloom Tomatoes</b></p><p>Tasty and unique, heirloom varieties are endless. This category of plant is where you will find purple, orange and yellow tomatoes sharing catalogue space with red ones. Heirloom varieties are "open pollinated" plants, which means that if you harvest seeds from a plant, prepare them, save them, and plant them next year, you will grow the same plant. Heirloom varieties were developed over time, in isolated gardens and communities, thus developing unique characteristics.</p><p>Heirlooms require particular growing conditions, and each variety is different. The key to success with heirlooms is choosing a variety that is well suited to your growing conditions. Because heirloom tomatoes have not been bred for generations to promote vigor and disease resistance, these varieties need a little bit of extra care. They are, however, worth the extra work. Heirlooms will produce lush, flavorful tomatoes of every shape, size and hue, for every culinary taste or need.</p><p><b>Hybrid Tomatoes</b></p><p>These tomatoes are the result of two different tomato varieties being "crossed" or joined, and the seeds harvested from the resulting plants. Hybrid tomato seeds will produce the tomato with hybrid characteristics for only one plant generation. If you harvest your tomatoes from the hybrid plant and plant those seeds next year, you will not have the same plant.</p><p>Hybrid tomatoes have been bred for disease resistance, uniformity, and ability to withstand mechanical harvesting, packing and shipping. Little time has been spent in enhancing flavor in hybrid tomatoes. Much like hybrid tea roses, hybrid tomatoes may be nice to look at, but they have few other desirable attributes.</p><p>For large-scale commercial tomato growers, hybrid tomatoes are a great help. For consumers expecting bright red tomatoes in the middle of winter, hybrids are a way to consume. For home gardeners, Heirloom varieties produce yields as large, and much more flavorful. Home gardeners have enough time an attention to successfully grow heirloom tomatoes and bring out their best qualities.</p><p><b>Choosing the Right Variety</b></p><p>Whether Heirlooms or Hybrids are your tomato of choice, you much choose tomato varieties that are well suited to your growing environment. Climates with high heat and humidity will help certain varieties flourish, while colder climates with shorter growing seasons require cultivation of plants that set fruit and mature faster.</p><p>For a comprehensive resource on tomato varieties, both heirloom and hybrid, consult <i>How To Grow Juicy Tasty Tomatoes</i> available from <a id="link_83" style="background-color: rgb(255, 204, 255);" linkindex="78" target="_new" rel="nofollow" href="http://lynx92.tomato1.hop.clickbank.net">www.bestjuicytomatoes.com</a></p><div id="sig" class="sig"><p>If you want more detailed tomato garden advice and tips from a world horticultural expert, visit</p><p><a id="link_84" linkindex="79" target="_new" href="http://lynx92.tomato1.hop.clickbank.net">http://www.bestjuicytomatoes.com</a></p><div><p>Article Source: <a id="link_85" linkindex="80" href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Annette_Welsford">http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Annette_Welsford</a></p></div></div></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/HIZGn2ud3ZQ" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com2http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2009/03/growing-tomatoes-heirloom-vs-hybrid.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-22278900951092975992008-10-10T02:18:00.000-07:002008-10-10T02:32:18.382-07:00Growing Tomatoes in Containers and Pots - 4 Top Tips<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_xxMPNY9e0JY/SO8g_9LZOII/AAAAAAAAAJ4/6mA8pyTu5rE/s1600-h/tomato-container-garden.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_xxMPNY9e0JY/SO8g_9LZOII/AAAAAAAAAJ4/6mA8pyTu5rE/s320/tomato-container-garden.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255455573290858626" border="0" /></a><br /><div class="article_text">I have been growing tomatoes in patio containers and pots this year with some success. I also have my beloved plot with tomatoes growing in the ground. I know the ones in the ground will work fine - they have done for thirty years. But growing my tomatoes in containers is anew departure for me.<p> The comparison between the pot grown tomato and those in the ground.</p><p> I grew 2 varieties this year moneymaker and an Italian cherry tomato variety. I cannot remember the name but they came free with a magazine. I sowed the seeds in March 2008 and grew them on in my conservatory in 6 inch pots. As Always I grew too many tomato plants and gave 20 away. I planted them out as 2 - 3 foot high plants in early June and a month later picked the first tomatoes. As I speak in late august I still have many fruits to pick so it has been a good year. The plants grown in containers have had similar results but I have noticed 2 differences.</p><p> Firstly the moneymaker tomatoes were slightly smaller than the ones grown on my plot.</p><p> Secondly there were not quite as many cherry tomatoes in the containers.</p><p> Other than that the results were very similar. The taste is uniformly excellent and the texture and colour very appetizing. For the container grown tomatoes I did treat them differently and with a bit more care.</p><p> 1. Make sure you put tomato plants in a really big pot.</p><p> I like the root systems to have plenty of room and not become pot bound. You also need a big container to have enough depth for the support canes. I use standard clay terracotta pots but any wide and deep container will work fine.</p><p> 2. Water your tomatoes even if it rains.</p><p> We have had a dreadful summer in the UK this year and it has rained constantly. I still found that the pot grown tomato plants were wilting a bit if I didn't check them for watering. The plants in the veg plot did not need this. The reason for this is that the leaves of the tomato plants deflect much of the water away from the pot. Very little water gets to the root of the plants. This is why I check them daily.</p><p> 3. Be ruthless with pinching out side shoots on the tomato plants.</p><p> I only pinch out once or twice a season when growing tomatoes in the ground because they seem to do fine. I have learned this through trial and error. The moneymaker plants in pots were pinched out once a week to ensure that the fruits I did get were big enough and juicy enough. I never bother pinching out cherry tomatoes. They take care of themselves and always give plenty of harvest.</p><p> 4. Remove excess foliage once you have the tomato fruits.</p><p> I have always done this to tomatoes and do not know where I picked this tip up. Once you have all the tomatoes set on the plant remove any leaves that are hiding the fruit from the sun. I prefer the tomatoes to ripen on the plant and this helps speed up the ripening process. Removing the leaves also gives you slightly bigger tomatoes.</p><p> If you have missed this tomato season then I encourage you to plan ahead for your tomato growing in 2009. Grow some in pots and containers as well as in the ground. They are a lot of fun and be grown on any sunny spot you have.</p></div> by Kenh Jones<br /> <h1>About the Author</h1> <p>You can grow plants in containers very easily and without a large garden. Tomatoes are particularly suitable for growing in containers. For more <a href="http://your-gardening-tips.com/category/gardening-tips/">gardening tips</a> you can visit <a href="http://your-gardening-tips.com/category/gardening-tips/">www.your-gardening-tips.com</a></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/-c0XKMzCHO0" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com1http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/10/growing-tomatoes-in-containers-and-pots.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-78332633671619962832008-09-26T11:59:00.000-07:002008-09-26T12:07:47.260-07:00Tomato Pest And Disease Problems - Preventing, Diagnosing And Treating<div id="body"><p>Tomatoes are notoriously picky plants. Tomatoes are in the potato family, which makes them susceptible to tens, if not hundreds of pest and disease problems; however, that should not stop any tomato loving gardener from harvesting buckets of healthy tomatoes. The key is to learn how to prevent, diagnose and treat tomato problems.</p><p><b>Tomato Disease Prevention</b></p><p>Disease prevention in tomato plants starts with healthy growing practices. Preparing the soil, watering properly, and feeding appropriately are all keys to tomato disease prevention. Tomatoes like a well draining soil filled with lots of organic matter. Tomato roots penetrate deeply into the soil, helping to stabilize plants and take up water. With well-prepared soil, watering deeply and infrequently-every 4-6 days, will allow the tomato plant to have enough water, without putting the plant at risk of problems of overly "wet feet." Always water in the morning, so plant leaves have time to dry during the day. Leaves are a perfect spot for disease incubation, and water ripens those conditions even more. Prune your plants to provide air flow through the leaves and branches, which will also aid drying time. Ensure that your tomato plants receive proper nutrition by conducting a soil test, and treating the soil according to the results. All of these practices will give your plants a good start fighting off diseases and pests.</p><p><b>Diagnosing Tomato Pests and Diseases</b></p><p>If all of your well-intentioned cultivation practices have not stopped your plants from succumbing to a problem, then you must diagnose the problem. Tomatoes can suffer from pest problems, nutrition problems, viral, bacterial and fungal problems.</p><p>Pest damage to tomato plants causes visible physical changes. Cutworms actually cut off the plant from its root system, causing the plant to wilt and die. Aphid damage results in sticky residue on the plant. Aside from the damage they inflict, you can often see the pest itself on the plant. Caterpillars bury into fruit and eat it, causing fruit to rot. Whiteflies and spider mites are visible on the leaves. Diagnosing pest problems is easier than other problems because most pests can be observed on the plant.</p><p>Nutrition problems in tomato plants manifest in several areas of the plant. Tomatoes absorb a wide variety of nutrients, minerals and trace elements from garden soil. Deficiencies in each nutrient result in specific symptoms in the plant. Excess nitrogen causes deep green, lush, leafy plants with little fruit. Nitrogen deficiency causes yellowing of lower leaves. Calcium deficiency causes blossom end rot, a common problem on tomato fruit characterized by yellow, leathery spots that spread into black, rotting patches on the blossom end of the fruit. (The end away from the stem.) Nutrition problems can be seasonal, or soil related. A soil test helps determine what nutrients are lacking in the soil. If all nutrients are in the soil, factors such as overly wet or cold soil can make it more difficult for plants to absorb nutrients.</p><p>Viruses, bacteria and fungus all cause tomato diseases and problems. Wilts, damping off, leaf spots, mildew, fruit rot, cankers, and leaf mosaic problems are all common tomato problems caused by a cocktail of tiny organisms. Each problem shows in the tomato in different ways. Leaf mosaic viruses show up in leaves, causing mosaic-like patterns. Cankers are growths on stems, leaves or fruit. Root rot often shows up in the leaves of the plant, as they shrivel and die from not having enough water. For a comprehensive, pictorial guide on diagnosing tomato plant pests and diseases, consult <i>How to Grow Tasty Juicy Tomatoes </i>(available from <a id="link_88" target="_new" href="http://locatereviews.com/1385095010">www.bestjuicytomatoes.com</a>).</p><p><b>Treating Tomato Pest and Disease Problems</b></p><p>The phrase: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure definitely applies to tomato growing. As earlier related, properly caring for tomato plants and their soil prevents many problems. However, should your plants fall prey to a problem, there are many ways to treat.</p><p>First, correctly diagnose the problem. Once diagnosis is certain, follow procedures related to the particular problem. Many plant problems can be alleviated by changing gardening techniques. Plants that are stressed are more susceptible to pest and disease problems. Examine watering, mulching, and feeding practices. If those techniques are in balance, many pest and disease problems will go away. Nutrition deficiencies may be corrected by adding correct nutrients to the soil in easily accessible forms. Some nutrients are best delivered as leaf or soil drenches, while others work well in time-release granular applications. Pest problems can be corrected with beneficial insects, changes in gardening techniques, and insecticides-both synthetic and organic. Viral, bacterial and fungal problems can also be treated with a combination of gardening techniques and soil and plant drenches and sprays. Safety is an important consideration when applying any sort of pesticide. Read the label carefully and follow all directions. More is not better when pesticides are concerned.</p><p>While all of this information can seem daunting, tomato growing is a rewarding hobby. Keep a good reference on hand, and whenever your plants are under the weather, open the book and identify the problem. <i>How to Grow Juicy Tasty Tomatoes</i> contains over 260 colored photos of diseases, pests and common nutrition deficiencies and is a must-have for any top-notch tomato grower!</p></div><div id="sig" class="sig"><p>If you want more detailed tomato garden advice and tips from a world horticultural expert, visit</p><p><a id="link_89" target="_new" href="http://locatereviews.com/1385095010">http://www.bestjuicytomatoes.com</a></p><div><p>Article Source: <a id="link_90" href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Annette_Welsford">http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Annette_Welsford</a></p></div></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/_Ly-isWk52Q" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com1http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/09/tomato-pest-and-disease-problems.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-9996154542639669362008-09-18T12:31:00.000-07:002008-09-18T12:34:00.578-07:00The Art of Growing and Showing Tomato - by Trevor Dalley<div class="article_text">Shop Bought Tomatoes Can Not Compare With The Old Fashioned Tomato Grown In Your Own Garden.<p> One hundred and fifty years ago the tomato (or, as it was then called, the Love Apple) was little known and less cared for. It was grown by a few only, and merely for the decorative value of the fruit. During the last one hundred it has grown rapidly in public favour. </p><p> With the aid of heated greenhouses it is possible and comparatively easy to have fresh Tomatoes all year round, though to provide a supply throughout the winter is an expensive matter. </p><p> Tomatoes may be grown in any sort of greenhouse, so long as there is means for ample ventilation and sufficient heat to extrude frost. But if the most is to be made of the plants, then a light sunny, polytunnel that can be heated is necessary. </p><p> Peat based growing medium is very good for the purpose, but Tomato plants are gross feeders so if an amount of loam can be acquired to mix with the base compost this will be very helpful. The mixing of the growing medium should be very precise, with equal parts of peat, pea gravel and loam, with a base dressing of Tomato fertilizer. </p><p> It is possible to acquire what are called Tomato grow bags, these are fine to start with but the feed in these bags does run out very quickly and supplement feeding is needed. Over the past twenty years we have done many tomato growing trials, and have concluded that the old ring culture is still the best way to grow and fruit tomatoes.</p><p> Outdoor Tomato culture:- </p><p> During the summer months Tomatoes are usually planted out in a prepared border, cultivation in pots being preferred for early crops. The border needs to be well drained and made suitable by deep digging and have plenty of home made compost incorporated into it, (home made compost making is dealt with in our article GARDEN COMPOST MAKING WORLD at <a href="http://www.gardencomposthelp.blogspot.com/">http://www.gardencomposthelp.blogspot.com</a></p><p> also if it is possible to obtain some well rotted farmyard manure this can be incorporated into the top 9inchs (23cm) also bonemeal is very beneficial, always use rubber gloves when handling bonemeal. From eight to ten week should be allowed from the time of sowing the seed until the plants are wanted for planting out, this time can be cut to six weeks if the more expensive F1 Hybrid seed is used. If a large amount of plants are required it is better to use the cheaper open pollinated seed. </p><p> Sow the seeds into seed trays of good quality seed and potting compost, specially prepare for this purpose. The seeds should be sown thinly as possible to stop damping of when they emerge in about ten days, hybrid seed will germinate much faster and have less failures. </p><p> When the seedlings have reached about one inch in height they are lifted and transplanted at about 2 inches apart into seed trays or single pots, they should stay in the greenhouse and be shaded from direct sunlight for a few days, then expose them to the light and give free ventilation. </p><p> In about three weeks the plants will be ready to pot into 5inch (13cm) pots, in which they will remain until planted out in pots or borders. </p><p> When nicely rooted in 5-inch pots, and from 8 to 10 inches in height they are ready for the final planting. If to be fruited in flower pots, choose a pot which is 8 inches wide; always plant the Tomato deep in the pot this will allow for top dressing of new compost, plus the stem of the plants will root into the new compost giving the plant more anchorage as it grows taller. </p><p> Press the compost firmly round and over the roots, stake the plants and move to the place where they are due to fruit. If planting in borders, let them be in rows and 15 inches apart in each direction. At every fifth row let the distance be 18 inches in order to allow room for the grower to get amongst the plants. Press the soil firmly round the roots in planting. </p><p> When growing in pots in the greenhouse the best way to train the shoots is to run a wire at roof height from one end of the house to the other, place a cane in the pot with the plant and run a string from the base of the cane and tie it to the wire at roof height, as the shoots grow on the plant twist them around the string. </p><p> Unlike, the cucumber and melon, the Tomato cannot be grown successfully without a certain amount of fresh air, which must be regulated carefully, so that the temperature is not lowered unduly, on cold days only a small vent should be left open, but not to cause a draft, when the days are sunny and the temperature is raised greatly both end doors can be opened if growing in a tunnel, in greenhouse all vents should be opened. </p><p> When Tomatoes are grown in pots the labour of watering is great, it is advisable to purchase an automatic watering system, the best system is a drip feed type, not a spray system these can scorch the foliage on the plants very easily on hot sunny days. </p><p> With most of the drip feed systems a bottle is supplied that can be filled with liquid feed, the system will dilute the feed as the water passes through the container and deliver it to the plant roots. With regular feeding the fruits will swell very fast so constant picking of the crop is needed, we have found over the last 20 years with the introduction of the new hybrid seeds that it is advisable to collect the fruit when changing from green to orange, these fruits can be stored in a box placed on the potting bench and they will ripen nicely there, the removal of the fruit allows more feed to go to the smaller fruits at the top of the shoots. </p><p> If you wish to read more please go to <a href="http://dalley-nurseries-onlinehome.org/">http://dalley-nurseries-onlinehome.org</a> its all free, we have a Guest Book if you would like to leave any comments.</p><p> </p></div><br /> <h1>About the Author</h1> <p>Trevor Dalley has been growing Fuchsias and Chrysanthemums for sale to the gardening public commercially for the last 40 years and is now ready to pass on money making knowledge to you the reader for free. <a href="http://gardendesignhelp.blogspot.com/">http://gardendesignhelp.blogspot.com</a></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/zqs-2p31k8Q" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/09/art-of-growing-and-showing-tomato-by.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-72706877050155039302008-09-01T04:45:00.000-07:002008-09-01T04:47:33.207-07:00What to do About Tomato Black Spot or Tomato Blight - by J Hfield<div class="article_text">Have your tomatoes been struck by black spot? Are the fruits rotting and the leaves turning black? You may have what's called Tomato Blight.<p> </p><p> Tomato blight is more common when the weather is cool and damp. It also occurs more if you keep planting your tomatoes/peppers/potatoes in the same place every year. They are truly a crop that needs to be rotated! </p><p> If your plant has fallen to the tomato black spot you need to act fast. Get rid of the plant, its roots and all leaves, burn it or put it in the garbage. Don't compost any of the waste or you can reinfect your plants next year. </p><p> It is also important to always water the plants down low, and don't sprinkle from overhead. Tomatoes just hate that. </p><p> Try to give your tomatoes enough space and good air circulation. </p><p> plant your tomatoes at the proper time for your area to ensure they are strongest during the best part of the growing season! </p><p> Good luck gardening! check out this website for more tomato tips www.LitteGardenPatch.com For more Tomato tips, garden pictures and raised bed gardening check out www.LittleGardenPatch.com</p><p> </p></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/EYuc36I1Tus" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/09/what-to-do-about-tomato-black-spot-or.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-30168749520786031262008-08-15T06:16:00.000-07:002008-08-15T06:19:22.179-07:00Growing Heirloom TomatoesOnce you have had a taste of a home grown heirloom tomato you will never eat a store bought one again! Growing Heirloom Tomatoes can be tricky to grow so here are some tips. <p>I have found that starting them from seed indoors and then planting them outside at the proper time ensures the greatest success and volume of tomatoes. I've grown identical plants, but one from seed and one from a store bought plant. There was no comparison, the one grown from seed was stronger, healthier, produced more fruit and had less growing problems. Even though the store/nursery ones may look good, you never know how much stress they have been through. Stick with seeds if you can! </p><p> Even bugs know which tomatoes taste better. I have found that most tomato pests love heirlooms. Sure the hybrid plants may not suffer from some of the problems heirlooms do, but they don't have the taste or vigor either. Most heirloom tomato pests can be easily taken care of with a few simple steps.<br /> Keep your plants clean, no loose fruits on the ground. <br /> Make sure you stake your plants and tie them up well.<br /> Pinch off any extra suckers, don't go overboard though.<br />Pick off any bugs, like tomato horn worm. If you see a huge weird moth around your plants get rid of that too, because most likely it is laying horn worm eggs. YUCK! </p><p> Heirlooms need consistant watering. If they go through too many periods of drought or overwatering they may crack. A good deep soaking is all that is necessary. Mulch your plants to keep the soil temperature more even and extend the growing season. </p><p> Plant marigolds and basil around your Heirlooms, they will ward off pests. Marigolds look adorable planted around tomatoes, and basil is a delicious companion plant for tomatoes.<br /></p><p>Check out this website for free info on growing tomatoes and other veggies and tons of pictures! www.littlegardenpatch.com</p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/Z-pT1vASoGk" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com1http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/08/growing-heirloom-tomatoes.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-79934689321641963672008-08-11T07:07:00.000-07:002008-10-06T15:30:27.268-07:00How to Save Tomato SeedsOne of the best ways to save money on gardening is to use seeds instead of buying plants. You can save the most money by saving your own seeds. Here are steps on how to save your tomato seeds. This is a really wonderful way to save Heirloom seeds! <p> Step 1. Scoop the seed out of the tomato, be sure to pick good looking healthy ones from your garden.<br />Step 2. Put the pulp and seeds into a glass jar, you may need to add some water. Let this mixture rot for a couple of days. It may take up to four days. Be sure to put this somewhere discreet as this mixture really smells bad!<br />Step 3. A mold will develop on the top and the seeds should be able to be seen on the bottom.<br />Step 4. Remove the moldy top add water and rinse through a strainer. Try to remove all the bits and pieces to just leave the seeds.<br />Step 5. Now you can dry your seeds, a paper plate or glass plate works well. Don't use towels or paper towels they will stick and you will have a mess on your hands. Just let them air dry, don't use the oven or bake them in the sun. Make sure the seeds are completely dry before you store them.<br />Step 6. Take all the dry seeds and store in a cool dry place. An envelope works well. Label everything.<br />Step 7. Did you know that seeds make excellent gifts to tuck inside a card? You can also sell your excess seeds. Good Luck and have fun gardening! </p>by J Hfield<p>Check out this website for free info on growing tomatoes and other veggies and tons of pictures! </p><p> www.littlegardenpatch.com </p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/lgxWg2gFsU4" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/08/how-to-save-tomato-seeds.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-41499303265406011602008-08-11T07:03:00.000-07:002008-08-11T07:06:21.367-07:00How to Grow the Perfect Tomatoes<div id="body"><p>Of all of the different vegetables that are typically grown in the garden, the tomato is by far the favorite. As a matter of fact, people have bragging rights in accordance with the size of the tomatoes that they grow in some areas. That is why it is important to make sure that you are growing the perfect tomato in every season. Even though a lot of people think that is has to do with the variety of tomato that you grow, it actually has a lot more to do with how you grow them.</p><p>Of course, you need to start with strong, healthy plants and then you need to add them to the garden properly. Many people will leave a lot of the plant sticking out of the ground in order to get a head start on the growing season but if you do, you may be hurting the plant more than helping it. A tomato plant has an amazing ability to produce roots from any part of the plant that is put underground. Whenever I first plant my tomatoes, I only leave a little bit sticking out of the ground and the rest I allow to go to root. This gives it the opportunity to pull as many nutrients out of the soil as possible.</p><p>Something else that you should start doing as soon as the tomato plant starts to grow is to pull the suckers off of the plant. These are the odd stems that seem to appear between the main stalk and any branches that are growing. Even though these will produce tomatoes on their own, they tend to draw a lot of the energy out of the plant and hurt its overall production. If you pull these as soon as they appear, you will be able to keep the plant healthy and producing large tomatoes throughout the growing season.</p><p>Finally, you need to make sure that you are treating your tomato plants organically. The last thing that you would want to do is to grow the perfect looking tomato but have it be poison on the inside because you were adding chemicals to the garden. Yes, it does take a little bit more work in order to have an organic garden but the fresh, clean vegetables that it will produce are a much better addition to your table than those with pesticides on the inside.</p></div><div id="sig" class="sig"><p>If you want to make your thumb greener, visit <a id="link_79" target="_new" href="http://www.gardeningabcs.blogspot.com/">http://www.gardeningabcs.blogspot.com</a> for more gardening tips and information.</p><div><p>Article Source: <a id="link_80" href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Marilyn_Roberts">http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marilyn_Roberts</a></p></div></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/B2K1bI1CAVQ" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com2http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/08/how-to-grow-perfect-tomatoes.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-65334426516557981602008-08-01T09:27:00.000-07:002008-08-01T09:30:10.361-07:00Growing Tomatoes - How to Avoid Common Problems<div id="body"><p><b>Flower Set and Blossom Drop</b></p><p>One of the most exciting moments in tomato growing is when flowers begin to fade and the first little pea-like fruits appear. Each day they grow a little bigger until they reach their mature size when they start to change colour and become ripe tomatoes. They look almost too good to eat!</p><p>However, temperatures and humidity have to be right for flowers to set fruit. If flowers fail to set, blossom drop is the result and those pretty little blooms wither and break off at the knuckle. To avoid blossom drop, mist and tap plants daily to help release pollen. If the weather is particularly hot and dry, also water around the base of plants to increase humidity.</p><p><b>Watering and Blossom End Rot</b></p><p>Watering can be a tricky business when it comes to tomatoes especially if they are grown in containers. However, correct watering can help avoid blossom end rot, which is caused by a lack of calcium when the fruits are swelling and leaves a dark leathery patch on the underside of the tomatoes.</p><p>The first aim should be to keep the entire root area moist by giving them a thorough watering once a week (especially when the fruits are swelling) and water moderately in between. The reason is that roots are only able to feed and absorb nutrients (including calcium) from areas of soil that are moist. If half of the soil that your plant is growing in is dry, calcium uptake may also be reduced by half.</p><p><b>Increase Aeration and Disease Control</b></p><p>One way to keep tomato plants healthy, especially when grown in a confined space such as a greenhouse or where they may be planted close together, is to increase aeration. This may be done by removing old, lower leaves below the first truss to improve air circulation.</p><p><b>Deleafing</b></p><p>Opinion about deleafing varies considerably. Some gardeners will leave most leaves on their plants which helps shield tomatoes from direct sunlight. Too much direct sunlight and heat can cause sun scald, greenback and blotchy ripening. Some growers, especially those who grow in greenhouses, remove all leaves below the truss that is producing ripe fruit. This enables plants resourses to be directed into the fruit rather than having to support lots of leaves. Plants grown in greenhouses do not usually have their fruit in direct sunlight for long periods, so avoid the problems of sun scald etc.</p><p><b>Watering and Disease</b></p><p>When watering, avoid splashing soil up onto the lowest leaves which may transfer soil infections into a plant through the leaves. Splashing water up onto growing fruit may also create ghost spot which is caused by grey mould soil spores and displays small transparent water-like rings.</p><p>It's also a good idea to pull off suckers, side shoots and leaf branches by hand rather than cut them because the blades of knives and scissors can spread disease from one plant to another.</p></div><div id="sig" class="sig"><p>Nick Chenhall has been a keen tomato grower for many years and runs his own <a id="link_76" target="_NEW" href="http://www.tomatogrowing.co.uk/">tomato growing</a> website. If you would like to find out more about growing tomatoes, please visit: <a id="link_77" target="_new" href="http://www.tomatogrowing.co.uk/">http://www.tomatogrowing.co.uk</a></p><div><p>Article Source: <a id="link_78" href="http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Nick_Chenhall">http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Nick_Chenhall</a></p></div></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/vNhFZ2x8cf4" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/08/growing-tomatoes-how-to-avoid-common.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-65060220130961691542008-06-18T05:37:00.000-07:002008-06-18T08:58:44.803-07:00Tomato Plant VarietiesTomato fruits come in a very wide range of sizes, shapes and colours. The largest are the American "beefsteak" and the roughly shaped European "Marmande" types - both considered well flavoured. Some exceptionally thick walled American types which are easily hollowed out are ideal for stuffing. Smaller tomatoes include "cherry" tomatoes, up to 2.5cm (1in) in diameter, and the tiny thumbnail sized "currant" tomatoes. Italian "plum" tomatoes, widely used for canning, are elongated; so is "Britain's Breakfast", a solid fleshed cultivar which freezes well. There are also pear shaped types. Tomatoes can be striped, red, pink, orange or yellow.<br /><br />Opinions vary widely about the comparative flavour of different cultivars. Flavour is determined by both acidity and sweetness; these characters may be inherent in the cultivar, but are also influenced by watering, feeding, sunshine, growing methods and the stage when picked. The first fruits on a truss are normally the best flavoured. Over watering and over feeding probably lead to diminished flavour.<br /><br />There are several types of tomato plant. The tall types are "indeterminate", in that a main shoot will grow indefinitely, given warm conditions; eventually it will reach a height of several metres (yards). This type is grown as "cordons", by removing the side shoots and tying the plants to some kind of support. Most greenhouse tomatoes belong to this group.<br /><br />In the "bush" type there is rarely a main shoot but a number of side branches develop, which more or less stop themselves, to produce a somewhat sprawling, bushy plant. These can be grown without supports and are therefore useful under cloches or floating mulches. Generally, they have a shorter productive season than tall types. Many of the cultivars grown outdoors are of this type.<br /><br />The "dwarf" types form miniature, very compact plants, sometimes no more than 20cm (8in) high, with only a few short side branches. They are generally low yielding, and mainly used for growing in pots, or on window sills.<br /><br />Tomato cultivars are divided roughly into greenhouse and outdoor types, but in practice outdoor tomatoes can be grown indoors, and most greenhouse cultivars outdoors, except those bred specifically for heated greenhouses. Some modern greenhouse cultivars have resistance to the wide range of diseases encountered in greenhouse conditions but generally avoided outdoors.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/8I4ZlKcWr-4" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com1http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/06/tomato-plant-varieties.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-2766838442965066852008-03-30T15:31:00.000-07:002008-04-10T03:50:11.237-07:00Time is running out to plant tomato seedsThere's still time to grow your own tomatoes from seed, as long as you start soon. It's fun to grow your own; plus you can grow rare varieties that you are unlikely to come across at your local nursery. Plant the seeds in containers that are at least 3 inches deep, with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom. Half-gallon milk cartons cut down to size work well. Buy seed-starter mix at your nursery and plant the seeds 1 inch apart in slightly moistened soil, 1/4 inch deep. Use a spray bottle to water the soil with a fine mist. Tomato seeds need warm roots to germinate, but prefer cool air between 60 and 70 degrees. Keep the container on a warm surface in a bright spot or 2 inches under a fluorescent light fixture. Keep misting the soil enough so it remains slightly moist. As soon as the second set of leaves appears, repot each seedling in a 4-inch pot. Fertilize with quarter-strength soluble house plant fertilizer every seven days, and gradually acclimate your baby tomato plants to the weather until you plant them out around Mother's Day.<br /><br /><script language="JavaScript" src="http://lapi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?EKServer&ai=mragj%7D*%23%2B&bdrcolor=666666&cid=0&eksize=1&encode=UTF-8&endcolor=FF0000&endtime=y&fbgcolor=EFEFEF&fntcolor=000000&fs=0&hdrcolor=FFFFCC&hdrimage=7&hdrsrch=y&img=y&lnkcolor=0000FF&logo=9&num=10&numbid=n&paypal=n&popup=n&prvd=9&query=tomato+seeds&r0=3&shipcost=n&sid=April08&siteid=0&sort=MetaEndSort&sortby=endtime&sortdir=asc&srchdesc=n&tbgcolor=FFFFFF&title=Tomato+Seeds&tlecolor=990000&tlefs=0&tlfcolor=FFFFFF&toolid=10004&track=5335848385&width=460"></script><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/WqlYtZKSq3o" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/03/time-is-running-out-to-plant-tomato.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-44701543179230694972008-03-15T06:44:00.000-07:002008-04-10T03:47:58.963-07:00Time To Choose Your Tomato Seeds<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_xxMPNY9e0JY/R9vehg4FjkI/AAAAAAAAAEc/F_v8V3Wrko4/s1600-h/LS3192D_l.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_xxMPNY9e0JY/R9vehg4FjkI/AAAAAAAAAEc/F_v8V3Wrko4/s320/LS3192D_l.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5177976863934746178" border="0" /></a><br />For everyone in the Northern Hemisphere who would like to grow tomatoes, now is the time to choose your tomato seeds. Here are a few of the great deals for tomato seeds available on eBay. Many different varieties are available, if you cannot see your preferred choice just click through to eBay and use the search box.<br /><br /><script language="JavaScript" src="http://lapi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?EKServer&ai=mragj%7D*%23%2B&bdrcolor=666666&cid=0&eksize=1&encode=UTF-8&endcolor=FF0000&endtime=y&fbgcolor=EFEFEF&fntcolor=000000&fs=0&hdrcolor=FFFFCC&hdrimage=7&hdrsrch=y&img=y&lnkcolor=0000FF&logo=9&num=10&numbid=n&paypal=n&popup=n&prvd=9&query=tomato+seeds&r0=3&shipcost=n&sid=April08&siteid=0&sort=MetaEndSort&sortby=endtime&sortdir=asc&srchdesc=n&tbgcolor=FFFFFF&title=Tomato+Seeds&tlecolor=990000&tlefs=0&tlfcolor=FFFFFF&toolid=10004&track=5335848385&width=460"></script><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/_-SU3yIf86s" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/03/time-to-choose-your-tomato-seeds.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-406645102735809542008-03-14T09:51:00.000-07:002008-03-14T09:56:40.781-07:00Grow Healthier Tomatoes with Super-Oxygenated Water<p><i>Studies show increased levels of vitamin A/beta carotene and trans-lycopene from plants watered with oxygenated water.</i></p> <p>Minneapolis (PRWEB) March 13, 2008 -- We all know tomatoes are among the top food source for vitamin A and the powerful antioxidant lycopene. Now, studies have shown it's possible to grow tomatoes that provide even more of these beneficial nutrients by simply adding oxygen to the water you provide them. </p> <p>In studies conducted by Dr. Albert H. (Bud) Markhart, a member of the Department of Horticultural Science at the University of Minnesota, super-oxygenated irrigation enhanced productivity, improved overall fruit size, and increased levels of vitamin A/beta carotene and the antioxidant lycopene in tomatoes. </p> <p> The tomatoes tested were from two growing locations and analyzed at two independent laboratories. Plants at one location were greenhouse grown and hand watered. Plants at the second location were grown outdoors in a high tunnel and watered through drip irrigation. One set of plants at each location were watered with super-oxygenated water. The hand watered trial used water produced by the Enki™ Watering Device. The drip irrigation location used a flow-through Enki™ System. The control groups were watered from a municipal tap water source at the greenhouse location and from a rural well water source at the outdoor trial. </p> <p> Fruit grown with super-oxygenated water at both locations analyzed by either laboratory had higher levels of vitamin A/beta carotene. Pooling all data, the super-oxygenated grown plants produced fruit with about a 25 percent greater concentration of vitamin A/beta carotene than plants irrigated with control water. </p> <p> Lycopene was analyzed from fruit from the final harvest. Care was taken to select a minimum of three fruit of equal ripeness from both treatments. The tomato fruit from the super-oxygenated irrigated plants had 63 percent more trans-lycopene than fruit from the control plants. </p> <p> Why is this important? </p> <p> Tomatoes are an important source of vitamin A/beta carotene and lycopene in a balanced diet. In addition to the general anti-oxidant activity, vitamin A plans a vital role in eye health maintaining a clear cornea and sensitive retina. Low vitamin A results in night blindness. Severe deficiency is one of the principle causes of childhood blindness in developing countries. Vitamin A also plays important roles in the immune system. </p> <p> Beta-carotene is important because it is a precursor to vitamin A. The body rapidly converts beta-carotene to vitamin A. </p> <p>Lycopene is one of the most powerful anti-oxidants in our diet. In fact, some researchers believe lycopene may be valuable in preventing and slowing the growth of cancers of the prostate, lung and stomach. These scientists describe lycopene as a powerful antioxidant, a compound that blocks the action of activated oxygen molecules - known as free radicals - that can damage cells. The antioxidant activity of lycopene is at least twice as great as beta carotene, another carotenoid that is also thought to be an effective cancer-preventing nutrient. </p> <p> About the Enki™ Super-oxygenating Watering Device<br />This astonishing watering device delivers super-oxygenated water to plant roots - naturally. The patented water-electrolysis technology supplies up to 50 percent more oxygen than rainwater in just 30 minutes. More oxygen means healthier roots, resulting in improved plant strength and health, as well as an increase in the number of flowers and the yield of your fruit and vegetables. The Enki is available at independent garden centers nationwide or at <a set="yes" linkindex="16" href="http://www.myenki.com/" onclick="linkClick( this.href );" target="_blank">www.MyEnki.com</a>. </p> <p> About Ovation Science<br />The Enki is developed by Chanhassen, Minn.-based Ovation Science, Inc. (<a set="yes" linkindex="17" href="http://www.ovationscience.com/" onclick="linkClick( this.href );" target="_blank">www.ovationscience.com</a>), which seeks to provide innovative, green-focused gardening solutions worldwide. The Enki™ watering device is the company's first consumer product offering, but its patented super-oxygenating technology will be the basis of a variety of other consumer, commercial and industrial gardening products in the months and years to come. </p> <p> For more information contact:<br />Suzanne Duecker<br />Ovation Science<br />608-216-6324<br />suzanne.duecker @ ovationscience.com </p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/Psc6Jr0Ejd0" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/03/grow-healthier-tomatoes-with-super.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-69284467986031027032008-03-02T14:41:00.001-08:002008-03-02T15:17:15.677-08:00Home Grown Tomatoes<div xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">Having an abundance of seasonal, fresh vegetables changes the way you use them. Their seductive flavour frequently means they become a far more important part of a meal.<br /><br />Growing them can be hugely satisfying and there is one vegetable you can never have too many of: home grown tomatoes. They are bursting with goodness, sunshine and anti-ageing properties.<br /><br />Choose your varieties now, ready for sowing in a couple of weeks (for indoor tomatoes) to get a bumper crop.<br /><br /><b>How do you train and "stop" the plants, and why?<br /><br /></b>The simplest method to train the taller varieties is to suspend one vertical piece of string from the ceiling per plant and tie it loosely just below the lowest leaves.<br /><br />Then, as it grows, twist the top of the plant around the string. I use an individual cane per plant outdoors but you could use a system of vertical posts and horizontal wires.<br /><br />Remove the side shoots with your fingertips as soon as they appear so that all the energy goes into producing fruit from the truss. And when three to eight trusses have set fruit, "stop" the plant by pinching out the main shoot two leaves above the top flowering.<br /><br />Exactly at which point you stop (or perhaps in sunny warm places do not stop at all) depends on whether the plants are indoors or outside. Trials have been carried out using both methods and it was discovered that the non-stopped plants produced many more fruit but very few of them ripened, whereas the stopped plants bore more ripe fruit. In a good summer, outside, you can ripen four to five trusses.<br /><br />Joy Larkcom, a vegetable expert and author, lets some of her indoor plants grow unstopped and she is still picking a few now. Some years she picks her last ones as she sows her next crop. In sunny Japan, a gardener grew one tomato plant as a specimen (giving it near perfect conditions).<br /><br />He merely supported it without stopping and it grew to over 12ft by 12ft and produced 16,054 tomatoes!<br /><br /><b>Are grow bags effective?<br /><br /></b>If you grow three plants in a grow bag, you can end up watering three times a day. If you do use them, two plants are a better bet. Just cut out a small patch in the top for the plant as opposed to making a wide slit.<br /><br />Blossom end rot (where the base of the fruit goes brown or black) is a common problem caused by under- or over-watering, which adversely affects the plant's calcium supply. It is often exacerbated by the cramped conditions in a grow bag. If you cannot grow in the soil or are short of time, larger individual pots (a minimum size is 9in or 23cm) are better in my experience.<br /><br /><b>Which are the best varieties?<br /><br /></b>Garden Organic have a great range of heritage tomatoes, and they recommend Peace Vine, which is a small, wild type producing masses of 2-3cm tomatoes with a sweet, tangy flavour. Gardeners' Delight is prolific, easy and very tasty, but my favourites are the Japanese varieties, Momotaro, which translates as "Tough Boy" (a large tomato), and "Aiko" a cherry tomato.<br /><br />In Japan, nearly all supermarket tomatoes are labelled by variety and I have never eaten a flavourless one. Blight resistant varieties will be big this year too: Ferline, Fantasio and Legend.<b><br /><br />Is it worth growing grafted ones?<br /><br /></b>Sutton Seeds are selling grafted plants this year. They have selected vigorous disease-resistant rootstocks and have grafted tasty varieties on top, which, on their trial grounds last year, were resilient enough to grow through the blight.<br /><br />They are offering three varieties: Conchita, a large cherry; Dasher, a tasty mini plum; and Elegance, a standard tomato with great flavour. The vigour of the rootstock means you produce fruit earlier (by two to three weeks) and for longer and they are more resistant to disease. I am growing all three this year, both indoors and outside in a sheltered spot.<br /><br />Joy Larkcom believes it is worth using grafted plants in certain situations. She points out that, especially when you grow plants in the same soil, you can often suffer from unnoticed soil sickness. When she moved house (and greenhouse), she was stunned at the bumper crops which grew in the fresh soil.<br /><br />The more vigorous rootstocks would be extremely useful if grown in a greenhouse, where it is more difficult to change the soil frequently.<br /><br /><b>What can be done about the dreaded blight?<br /><br /></b>Some gardeners declared that they would give up growing outdoor tomatoes after last year's blight. I love the outdoor varieties and strangely did not get blighted, perhaps because I grew them against a dry, sunny hedge (which is normally frowned upon).<br /><br />Bob Sherman, from Garden Organic, recommends picking off affected leaves, which helps slow the disease. This, in conjunction with using grafted tomatoes in a sheltered place, should mean you can produce copious tasty tomatoes outside.<br /><br /><b>What about whitefly?<br /><br /></b>Yellow sticky strips are useful in the early stages, then bring in French Marigolds which, when they are in flower, deter the pests. Keep dead heading the marigolds to maintain flowering.<br /><br /><b>Any other useful tips?<br /><br /></b>High potassium feeds promote fruiting, but don't overdo it as too much will make for tough tomato skins. Avoid over-watering your plants too, as it dilutes the flavour. Keep them on the dry side in the early stages to help early fruiting. To ripen off your end-of-season outdoor plants, remove the support and carefully lay them on plastic on the ground and then cover them with a cloche.<br /><br />Alternatively, lift up by the roots and hang them in the greenhouse or indoors.<br /><br />Do not sow your seeds too late: for indoor tomatoes the end of February to mid-March is good, and for outdoor ones, sow indoors no later than the first week of April.<br /><br />Technorati Tags: <a rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/how%20to%20grow%20tomatoes" class="performancingtags">how to grow tomatoes</a>, <a rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/tomato%20growing" class="performancingtags">tomato growing</a>, <a rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/growing%20tomatoes" class="performancingtags">growing tomatoes</a>, <a rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/growing%20tomato%20plants" class="performancingtags">growing tomato plants</a></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/42N5aNiG4x8" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/03/home-grown-tomatoes.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-21081583386838394542008-02-29T14:40:00.001-08:002008-02-29T14:46:52.707-08:00What Tomatoes Will You Grow This Year? by David J Murray<div xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"><div class="article_text">As I write this in February (2008) it's the time of year for those of us in the northern hemisphere to be thinking about sowing seeds for a new season. Are you planning to grow tomatoes this year? If so, have you thought of the many varieties you could be growing to give a wonderful range of shapes, sizes, colours and flavours on your table?<p><br />Tomatoes can be as small as cherries or they can be several inches across. They may be bright red, or golden yellow, or dark purple almost to the point of being black, They may be spherical, cylindrical or plum-shaped. They can be sharp in flavour or lusciously sweet; firm-fleshed with liquid juice or soft and pasty, ideal for making purees.</p><p><br />Maybe you've done so in the past but if not, why not try growing some of the large "beefsteak" varieties this year? They're so good for slicing onto sandwiches. 'Brandywine' is a long-proven variety of this kind. Or how about the Italian 'Pomodoro Costoluto Genovese'?</p><p><br />Among the medium-sized varieties I've had good results with 'Ailsa Craig'. I'm not quite sure why but I've never grown 'Moneymaker', although it's been popular with generations of gardeners and is a firm recommendation from many growers.</p><p><br />Among the cherry tomatoes my favourite is toward the larger end of the group, 'Gardener's Delight'. My only hesitancy is that in our area we've had very bad blight for several years now and it does appear to be highly susceptible to that scourge of tomato growers. We'll return to the subject of tomato blight later, but I'm probably going to grow just a few this year, and under the protection of the greenhouse. A highly promising new cherry variety this year is 'Suncherry Premium F1 Hybrid'. For plum-shaped fruits why not try 'Olivade F1 Hybrid' or another Italian variety 'Pomodora Roma Nano'. </p><p><br />Earlier I mentioned the broad spectrum of colours available to tomato growers and thence to the cook and the salad bowl. Among the yellows 'Golden Sunrise' is a lasting favourite, and you could try 'Golden Sweet F1 Hybrid'. To give some dark contrast to the mix you can't get much better than 'Black Cherry'. Among the older, often labelled "Heritage" or "Heirloom", varieties are two Russians which produce beautifullly flavoured and large fruits: 'Purple Russian' and 'Black<br />Russian'. I first came across 'Black Russian' last year in a lonely-looking pot on a plant stall, bought it, and was won over. In future I must grow some from seed. </p><p><br />It is, of course, not necessary to have large amounts of space to grow tomatoes, even indoors or in the greenhouse. As well as the six to ten feet tall cordon plants there are also the small bushy varieties. 'Balconi Red' produces lusciously flavoured fruits, althogh I find it rather an ugly looking plant and prefer 'Gartenperle' for its combination of fruit and nicer appearance. </p><p><br />Some varieties are especially suited for particular uses or for growing under specific conditions. You can hunt around the seed catalogues for these, but here are a few. Two Italian varieties, 'Pomodoro Rio Grande' and 'Il San Marzano Lungo', are said to be especially good for making<br />tomato pastes. And if you live in a cold area where Winter turns to Summer only slowly then you may want to try 'Sub Arctic Plenty' which I understand was original bred for growing by army personnel stationed in Greenland. </p><p><br />I promised something about blight. It's not so many years since the gardening experts were telling us, "There's no such thing as a blight-resistant tomato", and of course they were correct. More recently bred varieties, though, have included some with greatly enhanced resistance to this disease. 'Ferline' and 'Legend' are two which I'm trying this year for the first time, having given up on growing my favourite 'Gardeners' Delight' out of doors in this area. </p><p><br />So then, that's a quick run down on the great range of tomatoes that you could be growing this year. Get out the seed trays, and on with the germination. I wish you success. </p></div><br /><br /> <h1>About the Author</h1><br /> <p>David Murray has been an adviser on managerial and ethical issues to companies, governments and voluntary agencies for almost thirty years, but now as he enters semi-retirement is taking more time to enjoy his garden in the English Midlands, and to write material for several family-owned <a href="http://www.gardening-notes.com/" linkindex="8" set="yes">gardening</a> and <a href="http://brunleabooks.com/go?gardenbooksonblb/goarts" linkindex="9" set="yes">bookselling</a> web sites.</p><br /><br /><br />Technorati Tags: <a rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/tomato" class="performancingtags">tomato</a>, <a rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/tomatoes" class="performancingtags">tomatoes</a>, <a rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/growing%20tomatoes" class="performancingtags">growing tomatoes</a>, <a rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/tomato%20growing" class="performancingtags">tomato growing</a>, <a rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/growing%20tomato%20plants" class="performancingtags">growing tomato plants</a></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/3Rv-kKPlcJo" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2008/02/what-tomatoes-will-you-grow-this-year.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-58536541755937821802007-12-28T07:18:00.000-08:002007-12-28T07:34:48.909-08:00So Many Tomatoes, So Little Time<span style="font-size:100%;"><p><span style="font-family:Arial;">Those fresh garden tomatoes so longed for in the dead of winter may now present a challenge in producing more than you can use. Secretly many may be happy to see fall come and the tomato vines dry up. There are just so many tomatoes you want to can and so much salsa you want to make. But there are other alternatives for those extra tomatoes.</span></p><p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Arial;">Many recipes today call for sun-dried tomatoes. This is one way to preserve many tomatoes in a little space. Tomatoes can be dried outside in the sun, in a very slow oven (at 200 degrees), or in a food dehydrator. Drying outside in the sun will take several days and has problems with bugs and animals. It will take at least six hours to dry tomatoes in a food dehydrator, a gadget that many do not own. They will dry overnight (12 hours) in a 200 degree oven — and most everyone has an oven.</span></p><p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Arial;">Small tomatoes such as cherry, grape or the meaty romas dry best, however, you can use whatever kind of tomatoes you have in excess in the garden. The town house dweller who has a cherry tomato plant on the balcony can dry the extra tomatoes in the oven. Once dried they make great little tomato cups to stuff with cheese, or use as a scoop for dip, use as a chip snack, or drizzle with cheese spread and heat for crispy tomato nachos.</span></p><p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /></span><span style="font-family:Arial;"> </span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b>Drying Tomatoes</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b><br /></b></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b>Preparation for drying:</b> Wash tomatoes well and dry. It’s optional to remove skins; most leave the skins on. Cut tomatoes in half (quarters if tomatoes are large). Remove seeds and the white part, but leave red pulp. A quarter teaspoon measuring spoon works well to remove seeds.</span></p><p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b>Drying in the oven:</b> Place the tomatoes skin-side down on a cooling rack placed over a baking pan to catch any drips. Sprinkle lightly with salt and dried Italian herbs. Place in 200-degree oven. Check on tomatoes the first hour to assure everything is going well. (After three hours, some cooks like to take enough tomatoes out for supper. Slow-baked tomatoes sprinkled with shredded mozzarella are a real treat.) Check again in 10 hours. It will probably take 12 hours to dry completely. Avoid over drying. Even at 200 degrees the tomatoes can burn if left in the oven too long. At this stage, I like to allow the oven to cool, return the tomatoes to the oven on a baking sheet, turn the oven light on for just a minimum of heat, close the oven door and let the tomatoes have one final hour of drying before storing them.</span></p><p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><b>Storing the dried tomatoes:</b> Place the tomatoes in an air-tight container such as a jar with tight-fitting lid or a plastic bag, being sure to push out all the air. Freezing the dried tomatoes is an option. This seems to preserve the deep red colour. A short 24 hour stay in the freezer is recommended to eliminate bug infestation that so commonly develops in dried foods.</span></p><p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Arial;">Some recipes call for adding fresh herbs, fresh garlic and oil when storing the dried tomatoes. The FDA has advised that storing fresh herbs and fresh garlic in oil is a dangerous practice. They have advised commercial packers to treat fresh herbs and fresh garlic with vinegar (acid) and to note on the container that the oil should be refrigerated after opening. The same precautions should be taken at home when adding fresh herbs and fresh garlic to oil.</span></p><p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Arial;">Storing home dried tomatoes in oil is not recommended. Clostridium botulinum bacteria can grow in this atmosphere where no air is present. The bacteria can come into your kitchen on fresh herbs and fresh garlic. Heating to high temperatures cannot assure that the botulinum spores nor the toxin they give off are destroyed. It is a better practice to add oil and herbs to the tomatoes at the time they are to be used. Even with this method, the tomatoes must be refrigerated and should be used within two to three days.</span></p><p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /><span> </span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Arial;">Once you have dried tomatoes in your pantry, here are some ways you can use them. Most often the tomatoes are rehydrated before using in recipes. This can be done by covering the dried tomatoes with warm water and soaking for 30 minutes. Broth or wine are also suitable for rehydrating the tomatoes. Drain and pat dry before adding to a recipe. Chop and add the rehydrated tomatoes to cornbread batter, meat loaf, beef stew, soup (especially vegetable and tomato), dried beans, chili, quiche, macaroni and cheese, Welsh rarebit and stir fry.</span></p><p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Arial;">Sometimes the crunch of the dried tomato is desirable in dips when soaking them is neither necessary nor desirable. The first taste of your first batch of dried tomatoes will suggest that herb seasoned dried tomatoes make crunchy chip snacks. They also lend themselves well to a quick hors d’oeuvre by stuffing them with a small piece of feta cheese, topped with a large caper or a slice of olive.</span></p><p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Arial;">Drying tomatoes is easy and can be part of your multi-tasking as you go about your evening routine. Take a few extra tomatoes, put them in the cooling oven (200 degrees) when the supper casserole has come out, take a look at them when you go to bed, and take them out in the morning. It will be a good feeling to find there are a few less tomatoes sitting on the kitchen counter when you come home in the evening. You will enjoy those tomatoes so much more in the first pot of vegetable soup you make this fall.</span></p><p><span style="font-family:Arial;"><br /></span></p></span><b><span style="font-size:85%;">By <a style="color: orange;" set="yes" linkindex="19" href="http://www.dnronline.com/articles_writers.php?uid=57&amp;fp=flavor_details&amp;aid=12287&amp;chid=">Dorothy Rowe</a></span></b><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/8QhFqlqxeBA" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2007/12/so-many-tomatoes-so-little-time.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-31435758091684417202007-12-14T10:40:00.000-08:002008-03-21T07:08:49.528-07:00Where there’s muck: a guide to composting<h2>Turning your waste into compost is easy, and your plants will thank you for it</h2><br /><p> If you have not discovered the joys of making compost, now is the time to try – not least to avoid unpleasant smells emanating from your wheelie bin in hot weather, especially if the council is cutting back refuse collections to once a fortnight. Not only will you be taking a significant eco-friendly measure, you will be doing your garden a great favour. Compost isn’t called “gardener’s gold” for nothing: digging it in improves the texture of the soil, while adding a layer on top and using it as a mulch (aim for a couple of inches) helps fend off weeds. It also boosts the level of friendly bacteria, making for healthier plants. </p><p> Do not be put off by earlier composting failures. If they resulted in a slimy, foul-smelling mess, you were probably using one of the Dalek-shaped plastic compost bins that local councils offer for less than a tenner. Lured into buying them by the promise of “no turning necessary”, novices fill them with grass cuttings and kitchen waste, but the result is often a sticky sludge with a pong. </p><p> Making compost isn’t difficult, however, if you understand some of the science involved in its creation. Most of what we are likely to throw into a compost heap – peelings from fruit and vegetables, grass clippings and weeds – is “green” waste, which has a high water content and is rich in nitrogen. Used alone, particularly in one of those Dalek containers, it sticks together and doesn’t allow air, which is crucial for decomposition, to enter the pile. </p><p> To stop a heap from putrefying, you must layer the “green” material with dryer “brown” material, which is high in carbon. “Browns” include dried leaves, egg boxes, scrunched-up newspaper and the cardboard core of loo rolls. Think of the compost heap as a cake and alternate layers of green and brown, each between 2in and 4in thick. Fill your Dalek composter like this and it will work fine.</p>Admittedly, vermin, including rats, and even wasps, will be drawn to a compost pile – but, given the benefits, this is no reason not to have one. Make it less attractive to pests by turning and tending the pile regularly, and by keeping it covered and hot so they won’t be able to nest in it. And never add meat scraps. <p><b>The low-maintenance pile: </b>if you are happy to make compost slowly, in return for not bothering too much with it, sit the container directly on the earth, so earthworms can rise and break down the pile of waste. Start with some twiggy material at the bottom, which will aerate it, then add alternate layers of “brown” and “green” material, building them up as you go along. Sprinkle soil over the layers (two or three handfuls is enough) to introduce extra bacteria and help the matter to decompose. Or, if you have a friend with an existing pile, ask them to donate a bucket of compost to start you off. </p><p> A good alternative is to get a garden-centre bag of manure and throw a few handfuls on every so often. If the pile is dry, sprinkle it with water when you’ve finished adding a layer. Some people like to use a compost accelerator such as Garotta (available from garden centres); others keep a box of lime handy, to stop the pile from becoming too acidic and smelly. But neither is strictly necessary. A pile like this can be made in a plastic compost bin, covered and left to do its own thing. The rate of decomposition will vary, but you should end up with usable compost within a year. </p><p><b>The fast stuff: </b>if you generate lots of kitchen and garden waste, or want to make compost quickly, then you will need two compost bins. Build up a pile in one as explained above, let it settle for a week or two, then turn it into the second bin. Turning the pile regularly and introducing more air causes matter to heat up and break down more quickly, decomposing in four months or less. (Don’t regard turning compost as a chore, either; it can be surprisingly therapeutic and add a bit of calm to your life.) Warmth is as important as air to the process, so keep the pile covered. </p><p><b>Wormeries: </b>this is a good solution for a small household that doesn’t generate much waste. With your wormery comes a set of live worms and bedding for them to start out in. Place small amounts of cut-up, uncooked kitchen waste on top of this – the amount of food is increased as the colony grows. The worms eat their way up through the first layer of food and into the next, leaving the compost behind. The amount created is small, but it produces a rich liquid called leachate, which can be tapped off at the bottom, then diluted and used as a plant food. </p><p><b>Bokashi buckets:</b> bokashi is the Japanese word for fermented organic matter, and this system is unusual because it involves both cooked and uncooked kitchen waste. Read the instructions carefully to see what you can and can’t add. It requires two buckets made with a special plastic impregnated with effective micro-organisms – friendly bacteria, essentially. These start the breakdown process and work to eliminate odour. </p><p> Put a layer of food a couple of inches thick in the bucket, then sprinkle on a layer of special bran, again impregnated with those micro-organisms, followed by another layer of food. Continue alternating the layers until the bucket is full, then leave it for 10-14 days while you start a new one. The first bucket can be drained periodically of liquid, which is used to neutralise bacteria in drains or as a plant food. </p><p> Once the bokashi has been made, it can be added to your standard compost heap. You can also bury it in the garden and plant over it; it is ideal for hungry crops such as runner beans or even dahlias. The kit isn’t cheap (about £80 for two 18-litre buckets, the biggest available), but the system is extremely useful for reducing the smelly element of a kitchen bin. Larger families may need to buy another bucket to take all the waste generated.</p><span style="font-size:100%;"><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">What's the Ultimate Health Giving Secret of Plant Feeding?<br /><br /><a href="http://lynx92.turnwill2.hop.clickbank.net/?tid=BLOG">Make the World's Best Compost!</a><br /></b></span><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/3508NuhPZQk" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com1http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2007/12/where-theres-muck-guide-to-composting.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-33461769667335402612007-09-25T14:14:00.000-07:002007-09-25T14:29:32.236-07:00Tomato Growing AdviceIf your tomatoes are in growing pots, water them more often than weekly. Even in huge containers, pot-grown tomatoes need more water than those in the ground. Water daily in hot, dry weather and every few days in cooler weather. If tomato foliage wilts on hot afternoons but looks fine in the cooler evenings and mornings, you don't need to water more often. <p>If he stems of your tomatoes are weak and break off before the fruit ripens. It may be that you are using a water-soluble synthetic fertilizer on pot-grown tomato plants and watering frequently to keep them hydrated. Water soluble fertilizers are easily washed away by daily watering and only last about two weeks at best. As a result, heavy feeders like tomatoes can quickly run short of nutrients, especially if grown in less-than-ideal potting soil. For better results, use a compost-based planting mixture and switch to natural fertilizers that combine quick and slow-release foods. You can also sprinkle corn gluten at the rate of 1 cup per plant every 6-8 weeks. High in nitrogen, corn gluten also keeps tomato plants weed free.</p> <p>For weak stems, try liquid seaweed. Often used in hydroponic gardening, seaweed extracts like Maxicrop are helpful when plants experience rapid growth during fluctuating weather (like a dry, hot spell followed by a cold, wet week). The fastest growing plant in the world, kelp contains micronutrients, trace elements, plant hormones and growth stimulants. These in turn increase root growth, improve the density and texture of foliage and stems and boost chlorophyll production. </p> If your tomatoes often get early blight mulch them early and often with used coffee grounds. High in nitrogen, coffee has been reported to have a protective effect against early blight. <p>Brewed compost tea can also be beneficial for tomatoes. My tea-treated plants are enormous and loaded with tomatoes, while untreated plants are smaller and less productive. In my experience, plants given tea regularly are less likely to get blights, mildew, and so forth. Again in my experience, compost teas are most effective at preventing problems than at fixing them. </p> <p>Also, keep the foliage dry and prune away any yellowed leaves as soon as you notice them. This creates better air circulation and removes fungus before it spreads.</p> <p>To avoid mildews, always water the soil, not the plant or the foliage. Mildew can be often suppressed with a mixture of 10 percent milk, 90 percent water, which you DO spray on the leaves early in the morning (so they can dry out quickly). Any kind of milk will do, including powdered. (This works great on squash and cucumbers too.)</p>More detailed information and advice can be found in <a linkindex="4" href="http://locatereviews.com/1385095010">How to Grow Juicy Tasty Tomatoes.</a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/93kUclhKTuY" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2007/09/tomato-growing-advice.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-11064904088811203212007-09-03T15:27:00.000-07:002007-09-03T15:40:47.985-07:00How To Grow Tomatoes Tip 7 - No Dig GardeningSoil preparation can be back-breaking work - perhaps you would like to know <span style="font-weight: bold;">how to grow tomatoes</span> without hours of digging.<br /><br />The idea of no-dig gardening was developed by an Australian named Esther Deans. It was originally both developed both as a labour saving idea, and a method to rejuvenate badly depleted soil in a vegetable garden. <br /><br />The process involves starting with layers of newspaper, and by adding lucerne hay, straw and compost in succeeding layers, you can create a growing medium without resorting to heavy digging, and one that is rich in nutrients and which will simplify weeding and encourage your much desired plants to grow. The layers compost together, and greatly encourage earthworms. The gardens are maintained by adding manure, compost, etc., and should not be dug up, as this will undo the good work. I have used this approach to creating vegetable gardens, and it certainly does work. <br /><br />The principle of not digging has sound foundations. Excessive cultivation of the soil, especially when very wet or very dry, will damage the structure of the soil, and lead to compaction. Such excessive cultivation can also discourage the earthworms, and they are the best free labor a gardener has. <br /><br />Some followers of permaculture and organic gardening have translated no-dig into never-dig, which I believe is sadly mistaken. If you start with a base soil that is badly compacted, then your no-dig garden will initially work well, but you may find your garden does not continue to perform well. The fertile layer you have built up will encourage the earthworms, but we do know that the worms need to shelter from excessively hot, dry, cold or wet conditions. They have been found to seek shelter from extreme conditions by burrowing more deeply into the soil, sometime many feet down. If they cannot shelter in this way, it is my contention that they will die out or move out. <br /><br />My belief is that an initial cultivation of the soil before you apply the no-dig system will guarantee a better environment for the worms, and thus a better garden for growing your plants, over the longer term. By all means give the no-dig approach a try – you will be pleased with the result. <br /><br />You can learn about all sorts of soil preparation techniques in <a href="http://locatereviews.com/1385095010">How to Grow Juicy Sweet Tomatoes</a>.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/ozVcO5-vcbg" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2007/09/how-to-grow-tomatoes-tip-7-no-dig.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-90911252631609952462007-08-31T08:23:00.000-07:002007-08-31T11:24:40.414-07:00How To Grow Tomatoes Tip 6 - Manure TeaManure Tea<br /><br />If you feel that your tomato plants would benefit from a quick boost, then manure tea is a great way to encourage them. Simply put a couple of shovelfuls of manure into a Hessian bag and then steep it like an outsize teabag in a garbage bin full of water for a day or two until the water is the colour of weak tea. Don’t use it on dry soil, however as it may be too concentrated.<br /><br />Keep the lid on the garbage bin, the brew smells and will attract flies. It will keep for a week or so, or you can pour any leftovers on the compost heap, along with the contents of the used "teabag".<br /><br />More detailed information can be found in <a href="http://locatereviews.com/1385095010">How to Grow Juicy Tasty Tomatoes.</a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/OPMpkpU8nEI" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2007/08/how-to-grow-tomatoes-tip-6-manure-tea.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-20915753774873395882007-08-29T04:26:00.000-07:002007-08-29T15:28:53.138-07:00How To Grow Tomatoes Tip 5 - 7 Healthy Reasons to Eat Tomatoes<ol><li>Tomatoes are a good source of vitamin C and potassium. They also pack plenty of the phytochemicals that provide disease prevention benefits. Tomatoes are high in lycopene (a powerful antioxidant) and phenolic compounds. In our diet, 95% of lycopene intake comes from tomatoes and tomato products. It is also found in watermelon, pink grapefruit, papaya and rosehip.</li><li>Lycopene is the carotenoid that makes tomatoes red. It appears that lycopene can reduce the risk of certain cancers, the eye disorder age-related macular degeneration, atherosclerosis and sun damage to the skin.</li><li>Men who eat two or more servings of tomato products average a 35 percent reduction in prostate cancer risk.</li><li>Lycopene helps women guard against cervical intra-epithelial neoplasia, (CIN), tumorous tissue growth in the cervix according to research from the University of Illinois at Chicago. Lycopene is a powerful inhibitor of the growth of breast, endometrium (inner lining of the uterus) and lung cancer cells.</li><li>Lycopene is better absorbed by the body when it is cooked with some oil. The cooking helps to break down the cell walls of the tomato releasing the lycopene and the oil helps increase its absorption. Japanese scientists found that mixing tomato juice into the drinking water of mice completely prevented them suffering emphysema triggered by tobacco smoke.</li><li>Tomatoes also contain Lutein. Lutein is found in the retina of our eyes so it needed for healthy vision. Lutein also appears to lower the risk of cataracts and macular degeneration. Lutein may also help to prevent or slow down the thickening of arteries that is called atherosclerosis. Atherosclerosis is a major risk for cardiovascular disease.</li><li>Tomato products are beneficial in aggressive cancers that have also spread to other parts of the body.</li></ol><br />More detailed information can be found in <a href="http://locatereviews.com/1385095010">How to Grow Juicy Tasty Tomatoes.</a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/Th24xIblLY0" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2007/08/7-healthy-reasons-to-eat-tomatoes.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-60818735306855894532007-08-27T09:48:00.000-07:002007-08-29T15:27:53.562-07:00How To Grow Tomatoes Tip 4 - Fertilising for the Home GardenerStarter Fertiliser<br /><br />All plants enjoy substantial amounts of organic matter – manure or compost in the soil. Organic matter holds nutrients in the soil so that they are not lost through leaching. It increases the amount of water your soil can hold as well as microbial activity in the soil, encouraging earthworms and creating a wonderful healthy soil system that produces nice sweet tomatoes.<br /><br />Compost in the soil takes time to break down and release its nutrients– often up to 2 – 3 months. This means that if you want to use compost alone, it should be dug into the soil at least a month before you wish to plant your tomatoes.<br /><br />It often helps to add a bit of fertiliser (even if you have used compost) at 5cm (2 inches) below and 5cm (2 inches) to the side of where you plant your seedling. If you put fertiliser directly in contact with the roots you will burn them and your tomato seedling may die or its growth be retarded.<br /><br />Understanding Fertiliser Units<br /><br />All fertilizers are generally described by their analysis. This usually consists of 3 figures that respectively label the percentage of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) in a product.<br /><br />The sequence of N, P and K never changes. However in the USA these units are designated as N - P2O5 – K2O whilst in other countries (such as Australia) the units are N-P-K.<br /><br />P2O5 means phosphate in the oxide form, as opposed to phosphorus (used in Australia) and K2O is the oxide form of potassium whilst in Australia only K or potassium is used.<br /><br />You will find full details about fertiliser use (what to put on, when to put it on, how much to put on and how to apply it) in <a href="http://locatereviews.com/1385095010">How to Grow Juicy Tasty Tomatoes</a>. The fertilising chapter also contains valuable advice and photos on recognising and correcting nutrient deficiencies.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/kx004sGmL7E" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2007/08/fertilising-for-home-gardener.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-38259090655581685812007-08-24T08:57:00.000-07:002007-08-29T15:27:04.712-07:00How To Grow Tomatoes Tip 3 - Watering TipsValuable watering tips<br /><br />Water thoroughly to encourage the tomato roots to seek water and nutrients deep in the soil. With an extensive, deep root system, the plants will hold up better during dry spells. When watering, soak the soil to a depth of at least 15-20 cm (6-8 inches).<br /><br /><ul><li>Water only when your plants need it. Tomatoes like moisture, but over watering is harmful. You not only waste water, but soggy soil will prevent the roots from getting the air they need. If your plants look a little wilted on a hot, summer afternoon, that’s usually normal. They’ll perk up overnight. If plants are wilted in the morning, don’t wait -- water them! (However remember that certain diseases can also cause wilting.)</li><li>A thorough soaking every four to five days on light, sandy soils and every seven to ten days on heavy soils is a good general guide for irrigating if you don’t get enough rain.</li><li>Water early in the day to cut down on evaporation losses and also to give your plants plenty of time to dry out. Wet foliage overnight may help trigger some diseases.</li><li>With furrow irrigation, drip irrigation or soaker hoses, which all deliver water right at the soil surface and not on the leaves, you can water almost anytime. Try to avoid watering at midday though, because that’s when evaporation losses are highest.</li><li>Trickle irrigation is the most easily controlled method of irrigation. The equipment is expensive, but is long lasting and saves growers time. It can also be scheduled to deliver constant amounts of water, which can help reduce the incidence of fruit cracking.</li><li>Use mulch to reduce evaporation, improve water spread and uptake by the plants and reduce disease caused by rain and water splash.</li></ul><br />Full details on calculating exact watering requirements (how much, how often for size of plot) plus how to set up a simple irrigation system are provided in <a href="http://locatereviews.com/1385095010">How to Grow Juicy Tasty Tomatoes</a>.<br /><br /><br /><p class="poweredbyperformancing">Powered by <a href="http://scribefire.com/">ScribeFire</a>.</p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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<!-- AddThis Button for Post END --></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/HowToGrowTomatoes/~4/pEtuGpPk0Uk" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>BlogMasterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04201396371516718311noreply@blogger.com0http://how-to-grow-tomatoes.blogspot.com/2007/08/how-to-grow-tomatoes-watering-tips.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-203534551556760944.post-80988729196284080532007-08-21T07:28:00.000-07:002007-08-29T15:26:04.150-07:00How To Grow Tomatoes Tip 2 - Understanding Your Soil<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_xxMPNY9e0JY/Rsr3CoMMlQI/AAAAAAAAAA4/snpDVPpVJ-8/s1600-h/nutrient+availablity.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_xxMPNY9e0JY/Rsr3CoMMlQI/AAAAAAAAAA4/snpDVPpVJ-8/s320/nutrient+availablity.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5101161152470881538" border="0" /></a><br />Understanding your soil is vital when planning how to grow tomatoes in your garden.<br /><br />Tomatoes will grow in a wide variety of soil types and across a wide range of pHs, although they tend to prefer a pH between 5.5 – 6.8. In order to understand your soil type it is essential that you have an understanding of what pH is and how it can affect the nutrition of your tomatoes.<br /><br />The term pH defines whether your soil has a tendency towards acid or alkaline. The pH scale runs from 0 – 14, with 7 being neutral. Numbers below 7 indicate acidity and above 7 alkaline. Most soils have a pH in the range 4.5 to 8.5. Tomatoes enjoy a slightly acid soil usually with a pH around 6.5.<br /><br />The availability (uptake of nutrients from the soil by the plant) of nutrients is affected by soil pH. This is amply demonstrated by the chart at Figure 1.<br /><br />This shows that most nutrients have greater availability at pHs around 5.5 – 6. pHs can be adjusted: lime will make the soil more alkaline and whilst making the soil more acid is more difficult, usually sulphate-based fertilizers such as sulphate of ammonia and acidic organic material will help.<br /><br />Testing soil pH can be done simply by mixing soil and water and testing it using a pH meter, testing kit or litmus paper.<br /><br />Discover more about the methods you can use to improve your soil in the book <a href="http://locatereviews.com/1385095010">How To Grow Juicy Tasty Tomatoes</a>.<br /><br /><br /><p class="poweredbyperformancing">Powered by <a href="http://scribefire.com/">ScribeFire</a>.</p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script src="http://digg.com/tools/diggthis.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
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