I am planning on installing two MR16 Trail Tech HID lights (30watt fog and 30 watt pencil beam) plus I have grip warmers. Can the stock charging system handle this? I want to be able to run both lights and have the grip heaters going. I think the bike has 90 watts stock but I am not sure. It is a 2006 KTM EXC 450. So what do you fellers think?

Click to expand...

I can't comment on the HIDs, other than to mention that the start up amperage is rather high until they get lit and running, so you need a good battery.

You won't see anything close to 90 watts out of a stock RFS stator. After rewinding with larger 18 gage wire and filling all the poles completely my stator gives me about 95 (calculated using a digital volt meter and amp meter.)

Stock is around 75 to 80; and 55 of that is ac, which will not work for HID, no way. So at the minimum you need to consider a rewind and float the ground to a pure dc system. Since you want to pile on the electrical accessories it might be a good idea to invest in the Electrosport stator, which is good for an "advertised" 273 watts. That way you won't have to worry about future upgrades like a cooling fan, heated vest or 100 watt mobile Ham radio

A Trail Tech flywheel with stronger magnets can bump up the output of any of these mods by 10 or 15 watts. If you have been wanting either more rev or more flywheel effect, this can be a good option for a little more juice.

Note 2: If I were building these from scratch, I would (in addition) extend the lower side guards with 1/8 mild steel plate all the way down to the frame lugs, rather than simply clamping them around the weak subframe. Subframe failure often involves damage to the lower subframe nutserts, so I think bypassing that weak point would be wise. I would drill out the threads and install a long countersunk bolt with nylock nut. Boot interference will be an issue, but not a serious one with some creativity.

I agree with Stu about the subframe....I don't really worry too much about it. As you can see, the Wolfman bag sits halfway on the back end of the seat...I tend to pack the heavier items on the seat side, and the lighter items towards the rear fender. I too have been involved with a few wrecks that should have damaged the subframe, but hasn't. Hell, I flipped my bike once and it landed completely upside down, resting on the handlebars. THAT was fun!

The tank I have is the "XC" tank, not that monster 6.6 gallon Acerbis tank. No way I need almost 7 gallons of fuel. It would be a good addition for someone like Leesbian who is going RTW but for me it is overkill. Seems like that joker would change your sterring geometry when it's full.

Sounds like our man John Davies knows his stuff about the electrical jazz! I get lost in all the technical jargon. I do not know why it loses me, it just seems to have that effect.

Yup, "minimalist" camping rules. I used to stuff all my shit into the Moose backpack (I love that thing) but it started getting too heavy all day long. That is when I started looking for a way to carry some luggage. I actually bought and returnned a few different soft saddlebags...none of them worked well enough for me. I like the Mini Beta because it can hold a lot of stuff or a little amount of stuff. Either way, the cinch straps are smartly designed and NOTHING moves around in there.

Note 2: If I were building these from scratch, I would extend the lower side guards all the way down to the frame lugs, rather than clamping them around the weak subframe. Subframe failure often involves damage to the lower subframe nutserts, so I think bypassing that weak point would be wise. Boot interference will be an issue, but not a serious one with some creativity.

Click to expand...

I remember that thread... it was a good one. I really like his design. Wonder how they are holding up.

I am going to use the stock Dirt Bagz rack system for the older subframe ('02~'03 or '04) and mount that to the new ProMoto rear rack. The Dirt Bagz supports mount to the lower subframe bolt and include longer bolts. (You can get a longer cap screw like the stocker at a hardware store.) This Dirt Bagz mounting system holds the panners away from the wheel, pipe and up some. This system has worked great for me in the past. You can also put the MiniBeta Wolfman bag on top of this, back on the seat, and really anchor it well.
It does mean you will have to do your leg stretching routines to swing your booted foot over the rear rack, if you are a shorter guy, like me.

For a RTW trip the 6.6 gallon tank (6.3 as you note in your installation suggestions) would be similar to the LC4 Adventure setup. You would not have to fill it for known distances, but for the unknown it would give you about 200-225 miles (figuring 35 mpg).

I agree with Stu about the subframe....I don't really worry too much about it. As you can see, the Wolfman bag sits halfway on the back end of the seat...I tend to pack the heavier items on the seat side, and the lighter items towards the rear fender. I too have been involved with a few wrecks that should have damaged the subframe, but hasn't. Hell, I flipped my bike once and it landed completely upside down, resting on the handlebars. THAT was fun!

Click to expand...

I caught a trailing vine once that was about 1 1/2" thick by the handlebar that flipped me upside down at speed and the bike and I slid down the hill we were descending side by side with it coming to rest, upside down, next to me. I gave my poor old 250 a little hug before putting her back on her wheels.

3. No need to change seat pan with Acerbis 6.6 tank. I have one. Fits perfect.

4. Use cush drive wheel from 05' Adventure, fits perfect. I have one. $650 US...need the number of the dealer, I'll give it to you. Unless you're some super dakar/baja stud I don't foresee bending the stock rim (Behr). FWIW the cush drive is cheaper than a tranny and more convienent in the middle of nowhere.

Vuugti,
I have an '06 wheel laced to a dirt star rim (tougher than Behr) with the '06 backing plate. The sprocket and rotor align correctly but the sprocket carrier backing plate does not go into the wheel by about 7~8 mm and that is the exact amount that the width of the complete unit with spacers is too wide.
Can you send me the part numbers for the wheel assembly, the backing plate assembly and tell me if the external spacers have a shoulder on them that are about 10mm thick? The internal spacer's shoulder in the wheel on the sprocket side should be about 1.5mm thick. So far as I can tell there is only one cush rubber insert ever made for the various combinations so that should not be where the extra width comes from. There may be a change from the '05 wheel assembly to the '06.
Thanks!
Stu

I just started plans today on my RFS/AFS(adventure four stroke) conversion. I have been wanting to do this for years. I hope to have it done by May 07
--------------------------
1. start with a street plated 525 XC (not exc)
2. install custom trans mod, exc 1st & 2nd, keep the MXC close ratio mid gears and lower 6th to pull the 15/42 final drive
3.install stroker crank and 540 cyl
4. build low pipe along frame to a stock exc muffler
5.build skid plate to cover all
6.install the acerbis 25 liter tank
7. build a carbon/kevlar dakar cowl w/2 baja designs stock style headlight reflectors, use the black SM front high fender
8.install trail tech Lynx vapor instrumentation
9. HT oil cooler
10.evans coolant and ktm fan, hardparts radiator guards
11.trail tech rewound stator and rare earth magnet +7 oz flywheel
12.Osram HID headlights hi/low and LED tail and turns
13. aluminum splinted subframe with soft steel rack and panier mounts with bolt-on segments similar to the 950 design, to allow option for soft panniers or pelicans and easily bent back in event of an incident
14 suspension set-up with scotts UBM and subtanks to compensate for the heavier mid valve settings

possible options to consider:
Wider rear rim and TKC 80
Tire balls or mousse insert in front tire
Heavier spokes and DID heavy duty rims
Custom heavy duty high volume radiators
Possibly use a 640 or 950 adventure cowl to hack up to start making the CF/kevlar cowl.
Posibly use the 950 adventure windscreen (for availability)
Possibly an aluminum tool kit on the right side of the engine where the pipe was
Trail tech helmet lights( in adition to the hi/lo fairing mount HIDs) with heavy duty hook/loop mounting to the fairing wired with release plug for instant quick change from fairing use to helmet use location
Cordless drill converted into a quick mount winch

I just started plans today on my RFS/AFS(adventure four stroke) conversion. I have been wanting to do this for years. I hope to have it done by May 07
--------------------------
1. start with a street plated 525 XC (not exc)
2. install custom trans mod, exc 1st & 2nd, keep the MXC close ratio mid gears and lower 6th to pull the 15/42 final drive
3.install stroker crank and 540 cyl
4. build low pipe along frame to a stock exc muffler
5.build skid plate to cover all
6.install the acerbis 25 liter tank
7. build a carbon/kevlar dakar cowl w/2 baja designs stock style headlight reflectors, use the black SM front high fender
8.install trail tech Lynx vapor instrumentation
9. HT oil cooler
10.evans coolant and ktm fan, hardparts radiator guards
11.trail tech rewound stator and rare earth magnet +7 oz flywheel
12.Osram HID headlights hi/low and LED tail and turns
13. aluminum splinted subframe with soft steel rack and panier mounts with bolt-on segments similar to the 950 design, to allow option for soft panniers or pelicans and easily bent back in event of an incident
14 suspension set-up with scotts UBM and subtanks to compensate for the heavier mid valve settings

possible options to consider:
Wider rear rim and TKC 80
Tire balls or mousse insert in front tire
Heavier spokes and DID heavy duty rims
Custom heavy duty high volume radiators
Possibly use a 640 or 950 adventure cowl to hack up to start making the CF/kevlar cowl.
Posibly use the 950 adventure windscreen (for availability)
Possibly an aluminum tool kit on the right side of the engine where the pipe was
Trail tech helmet lights( in adition to the hi/lo fairing mount HIDs) with heavy duty hook/loop mounting to the fairing wired with release plug for instant quick change from fairing use to helmet use location
Cordless drill converted into a quick mount winch

I just started plans today on my RFS/AFS(adventure four stroke) conversion. I have been wanting to do this for years. I hope to have it done by May 07
SNIP
10.evans coolant and ktm fan, hardparts radiator guards

Click to expand...

That's sounds like a VERY fun project. A word of caution: while I know that at least one AdvRider (El Mur) has got his Hard Parts steel guards to work with the Acerbis tank by creative shimming and swearing, I sure couldn't. There simply wasn't enough clearance. Please consider the Bullet Proof Racing guards. They work simply fantastic under that tank, and provide very nice 1 inch wide flat surfaces for mounting inexpensive tank bumpers (furniture glides). Unless you are going to be roosted constantly, the slight reduction in frontal protection over the stock louvers is a non-issue.

3. No need to change seat pan with Acerbis 6.6 tank. I have one. Fits perfect.

4. Use cush drive wheel from 05' Adventure, fits perfect. I have one. $650 US...need the number of the dealer, I'll give it to you. Unless you're some super dakar/baja stud I don't foresee bending the stock rim (Behr). FWIW the cush drive is cheaper than a tranny and more convienent in the middle of nowhere.

6. I have heavier fork springs for the tank. Full fuel load didn't change a thing other than breaking.

7. Use the clutch lever adjuster for the front brake lever to gain more feel or feel at all.

8. I wouldn't get hung up on oil changes. 1000 mi on one and the oil looks new, kept for 2K.

jimeconomou must have been banned or something as he is no longer a user.

Basically, lots of good info here (site). I'd do you pre-run then hash out the problems.

Need part numbers or any other junk let me know. Pics to follow.

Click to expand...

Excellent! lots of useful info there... would love to see pictures of the Wolfman expedition stuff... I like the idea that its waterproof, but both bags look bigger than the other wolfman ones previously recommended.

270 watt stator is on shopping list, as is the Acerbis tank.

With the Scotts damper, do I need any other kit with it? triple clamp? bar adaptors? I've seen pictures of it, but I dont understand how it works - its way different to a steering dampener on a sports bike!

Leesbian -
Find the dampner first. Scotts is very specific with their mount and the position of your handle bars (1 through 4). You must know this before you order your stuff from them. Bolt-on post mount is the way to go.....unless you like welding to the frame.

Leesbian -
Find the dampner first. Scotts is very specific with their mount and the position of your handle bars (1 through 4). You must know this before you order your stuff from them. Bolt-on post mount is the way to go.....unless you like welding to the frame.

Pics of Wolfman Luggage - rear bag mounted for pic.

Click to expand...

Excellent. Thanks (again!)

Will phone my local dealer in the morning to get a price on the rear wheel... what year is your bike? or would a better question be, do you know the part numbers (on your bike) that these replacements for? (I can find out what the part numbers for my bike are in the manual). I just want to be sure that there arent any variations for different year models (and I'm pretty sure that the guys at the KTM dealers won't know about sticking an LC4 rear wheel on an EXC/MXC).

Sorry for all the questions!

The luggage you recommended looks great - I was worried cos the tank bag looked huge on the Wolfman website, but I guess it can be compressed down. I'll order those tomorrow - waterproof is definately the best idea (dont want all my gear getting wet/muddy or dusty).

I think I need to give Scotts a call - another thing I need to think about is finding heated grips that will either fit the bars I've already got, or find bars to fit whatever heated grips are available (looks like over hear the choice is limited to Oxford products). I know - heated grips on one of these bikes sounds not terrifically rock n roll, but I think on a RTW trip, they're gonna come in handy!

Vuugti,
Thanks for the info! I also posted a note on KTMTalk to see if anyone has made the wheel work. I will let you know what I find out.

On my '06 wheel with the '06 backing plate (p/n ending in 344, not 144) I could not get the backing plate to squeeze into the wheel with the cushion rubbers installed. I used the axle, axle nut and some tubing "spacers" to draw the whole thing together. You got 3mm, which would be tight but it would work (you did it) and I got 8 to 9 mm of backing plate sticking out. No go.

Having just talked about checking part numbers in manuals, I've discovered 2 things :

1) the part number for my complete rear wheel appears to be 548.10.001.244 which appears to be an EU only part number. I'm hoping you're going to tell me the part number for your original rear is either that or 548.10.001.344

2) my bike is a 2004 model, I'd assumed it was 2003, cos thats when it was first registered. Apparently it aint, cos all my manuals have 2004 all over them