Electronics Parts

Shop With Confidence

DLE330RAW Amana Dryer - Instructions

Installation Instructions for parts on models starting with DLE330RAW

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer from the wall. Then I removed the bottom two screws and slid the bottom cover off so i could see all the way to the back, I tipped the dryer back against the wall and searched for the problem with a flashlight. I noticed that one of the guide wheels that held the drum in place was sheared off. I took the new drum support roller out and carefully slid it over the shaft, I had to jiggle it around for a bit, but then it finally was seated correctly. I replaced the washer and then the clip using a pair of needle nose pliers and a regular screw driver and then turned the dryer by hand to see if the wheel came off. After confirming that it worked, I put the cover back on, and plugged it in and tested it.

The Felt Gasket between drum and door ripped, vent manifold from Dryer to fan and lint screen broken

I pulled the bottom panel and the door panel to replace the manifold and felt gasket around the drum. I removed old gasket very easily, it peeled right off. I use brake cleaning fluid (Spray Can from Auto Zone about $1.45) to remove old glue. Used spray contact cement (Elmer's about 4.50 at Ace) and sprayed the panel and gasket surfaces and let dry. I then applied a 2nd coat and let get "tacky" and installed the gasket. You will need an extra set of hands to hold the gasket in place while you stretch it over the the panel. The vent manifold is held in place with 3 phillips screws and was installed in about 10 minutes. The only gripe I had was in the Parts-Select illustrated breakdown they don't tell you the lint screen comes with the manifold assembly, so I bought one of them too. Now have an extra lint screen

Broken lint filter

Picked up the box off of my back porch and carried it in the house. Opened up the box, took the filter out of the box and unwrapped it. Walked into the laundry room opened up the dryer door and gently slid the filter into the filter holder.... BAM!! It was done!!

First I read all of the other stories about this problem so I would have the correct parts. At $6 a roller, decided to get all 3 & a belt. Pulled the lower panel off (2 bolts), then the door (2 bolts). Marked the door switch wires. Took 2 bolts out of the top & tilted it back. I found this the easiest way to access the drum. Mark 2 wires before disconnecting them from the top. All bolts are 5/16". Removed the plastic piece that connects the lint trap to the blower (3 screws). Have to access these from inside the drum. Removed the belt, then the drum. The bad roller was the belt tension roller. Can't get to the snap ring from the front of the dryer for this roller. The 2 rollers in the back you can get to without removing the drum completely. Very easy to replace all rollers with the drum out. Also very easy to re-assemble. Buy or borrow a good set of snap ring pliers. Make sure you diagram the proper belt route if you don't have a picture. I printed a picture off this web site. Have someone hold the drum up so you can get the belt on, otherwise the entire repair is a 1 person job. Went back together in about 10 minutes. Total cost $40.00 parts & shipping.

Support Roller removal and Installation

First I turned off the gas supply line. Then unplug the dryer. Remove bottom front cover by removing the 2 screws (1 at each side) at the bottom. Next remove the 2 screws (1 at each side) located at bottom of front door panel. Pull front panel away from dryer and pull down slightly. This will disconnect the entire front panel(with door) from dryer. Carefull because there is a switch located at the top right corner of the panel on the inside. This will not allow you to remove the door yet. On some scratch paper, sketch the switch and correct color wire positions. Remove wires at connections. Pull the drum toward front dryer carefully. This dislodges it from the back of the dryer. No need to remove it from dryer. This way the belt still remains in place. From inside drum, use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the support roller shaft located on left side of drum, below where the drum was sitting prior to pulling it forward to dislodge it from inside rear of dryer.Remove old wheel , place some grease on inside of new support roller and some on the shaft. Install new roller and replace snap ring. Slide drum back in place inside the dryer at the rear. Hand rotate the drum to ensure it is properly installed. Reconnect the switch wires to the front panel. Slide panel up into place so that the clips (at top of panel) lock into place(square holes in top cover plate of dryer). Have the door open when doing this because you have to seat the front of the drum into the front cover. Reinstall the 2 screws. Test spin the drum again by hand. If it feels right, it's correctly seated.Reinstall bottom front cover. While everything is apart, you may want to use a vacuum cleaner to clean the inside of your dryer. Perfect time to do this. Plug dryer back in and open gas supply line. Test the dryer. Should be nice and quiet again.This fix is for the left side support roller only. There is a support roller on the right side also. In my case I only needed to fix the left side support roller. The inner diameter of the roller was badly worn and needed to be replaced. You may want to purchase the support roller shaft at the same time. I didn't and will need to do this repair again. I only purchased the support roller and when I removed it, I noticed the shaft is badly worn also. In my case, temporary fix until the shaft is ordered and then I'll do this again.

Replaced heating element, which had a fuse and high limit thermostat attached to it. Remove 2 screws to pull the bottom cover plate on the dryer, remove 3 screws to pull the blower inlet shroud and then remove 2 screws to pull the heating element off the air inlet duct at the back of the dryer. Remove 2 screws each for the thermostat and fuse. Installed the new devices back onto the new heating element. Power leads to the element are long so you can pull the whole thing out very easily. Couldn't have been any easier to fix.

catch mounted on door broke

The door had always opened with the wrong swing and it wasn't til I needed to repair this that I noticed you could change the swing. I changed the swing of the door and then noticed that the clip was included on both sides so i did not need to repair the catch. I still have the part so when it breaks again, I can just pop it in.

Dryer would make humming noise and stop running as Motor would overheat.

This was much easier than I expected. I pulled the front covers, released the belt (just move tentioner pulley with fingers to release belt), removed the drum to access the motor. The motor was easy to remove. I loosened then nut in the fan assy using my channel locks (because I did not have a socket that big and then removed the wire harness clip to prepare the motor for removal. The two mounting clips were the tricky part as the fit over a metal ear on each side locked by the spring tension of the clips. It looks like a special tool my be available but I simply used my big straitslot and heavy downward pressure to remove and install. This repair can be completed by anyone with very basic mechanical skills and impress the spouse.

The original lint flyer was falling apart

I ordered a new lint filter from PartSelect. The part was in stock, and it was delivered to my home in approximately 40 hours -- yes, a little more than a day and a half! To do the repair, I removed the old lint filter and put the new one in its place.

Switch sticking in on position

FIRST unplug dryer from electrical source, CAUTION, the top of this dryer does not open with clips, do not pry on top to open! On the front of the dryer look under the lower panel, and find two screws, one on the left side, and one on the right, remove these screws, and pull slightly down on panel to remove. Behind this panel find two screws holding the door panel, one on the left, and one on the right, remove the left, and support the door panel while removing the right side. Gently pull the bottom of door panel outward, and the clips on top of door panel will unhinge from top, carefully rotate left side of door panel to floor, and note the wire connections on switch, and orientation of switch, then unplug wires, and move door panel to a comfortable working positon. Door must be open to remove switch, then depress the two plastic retaining keepers on each side of switch, and push switch through toward door. Replace with new switch, reconnect the wires, and reassymble in reverse order. Remember, door assymbly must be inserted in dryer top at an angle, and then bottom rotated downward, and bottom panel nylon guildes inserted into door panel bottom.

To make working on the dryer easier we tipped the dryer back, about 45 degrees, removed the bottom panel, the door panel, note: make sure to mark the inside chassis or case with a sharpie where the wires go by color, etc… note: this makes it easy to place every thing back in order. I removed three screws on the bottom left side, to allow the more room for me to remove the drum. You can not remove the drum just yet but until the rubber belt is removed. I went below where the tension wheel is… it’s back behind the motor… incidental the tension wheel and the arm was the problem, it had warn to one side. Now release the rubber belt around drum. I pulled the drum out. The motor assembly is all one piece so it’s easy to remove. Don’t forget to unplug the plastic Molex plug and mark where you wires go. Two screws in front on the motor assemble and the whole assemble comes out. From here I could do a good job of cleaning the motor assemble and replacing the parts without any difficulty. Re-assembly was really easy, just one issue with placing the rubber belt took some time, and I need some help. I was finished in less than two hours. Bingo fixed!!

No heat. Bad heater element.

Unplugged Dryer. Removed two bottom panel screws with nutdriver. Element in back left corner (under drum). Removed two screws holding element in place. Slide element down and pull out at a slight angle until entire element cleared and can be pulled out. Wires are long enough to reach out to the front of Dryer to make work easy. Had to remove two high temp thermostats and transfer to new element. Moved wires that were left and transfered over to new element. Reinstalled element and front cover. Plugged in Dryer and turned on. HEAT AGAIN. EASY!! With a little coaching I could have had my 8 year old do the repair. Honestly, it was that easy. Don't be intimidated and pay the repair man $350 to fix it for you. At least not on my model of Dryer! Hope this helps someone!!! To be honest, it probably took me longer to post this description than it did to make the repair.