Suffolk Colt Cutting Cylinder Bearings

I've just started a recommissioning of a Suffolk Colt, and everything is going pretty well so far. I've worked my way down to the cutting cylinder bearings and as you can see they are shot. I've ordered some replacements but is there another seal apart from the one stuck to the shaft?

The bearing is made up of three parts, the cones which come with the steel seals or dirt excluders pressed on to them, the ball races and steel cups pressed into the bearing holders . The left hand cone is pressed onto the shaft and the right hand one should slide on the shaft and press outward under pressure of a large spring washer .

The chances are that when you get it all cleaned up you will find the cones and cups pitted and that new races will not run smoothly . There are plenty of people selling the races ( a proprietary Item ) but cones and cups are more difficult to source.

If you have not already discovered Jon Cruse at the Hailsham Mower Centre he will be a good starting point.

Yes, that's the drive end (LH). The floating cone and spring washer are at the other end . Interesting that the illustration shows the seal as an individual part as, from Suffolk , I only recollect as them coming fitted to the cones , but we used to buy them loose from an aftermarket supplier of the day.

Going back to your first image , note that the race is in the wrong way round. The open side of the balls should face outwards into the the cups.

The right hand cone should slide on the shaft. Give it a good soak in diesel or penetrating fluid , leave it for a day or so then grip it with Mole / Vice Grips and give it a bit of a rotational wiggle. That will be restricted at first by the peg but with a bit of persistence should allow the cone to move up the shaft.

The drive end is a bit more tricky as the cone is pressed onto the shaft with quite a heavy interference fit and can resist attempts to move it. If due to pitting it is going to be scrapped a careful application of the angle grinder can release it without damaging the shaft. Another option is to bring it up to red heat , let it cool and then try tapping a thin cold chisel between the cone and the end web and see if you can persuade the cone to move up the shaft ; then see if the grips can rotate it.

Another method of freeing them is to break their grip by springing them by impact . To do that you will really need an anvil or at least a good solid lump of iron to rest the cone on and, if possible the help of an assistant Then place a drift on the opposite ( upper) side of the cone and strike it smartly with a lump hammer. Rotate the shaft 45 degrees and repeat, then again and again. The effect of that treatment is to create a bit of clearance between cone and shaft to get them on the move.

Beware of using a vice as your anvil as if it's cast iron and possibly of Chinese origin, it could end in disaster.