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I don't know if you have the parallel guide (not guides which are different) for your saw, but once I found out that it could also act as an outrigger for cutting on the rails and stabilized the saw I saw how much easier it was to cut bevels and my cuts improved.

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I do have a longer square but with trying to hold the phone doing video in one hand and the square in the other I couldn't get the longer square to work. I have tried the cut again and yet the same exact problem. it seems like no matter if I'm on top of the saw or on the side it always comes out the same. Here is a video with the track still clamped to my piece showing that the saw isn't even riding along the splinter guard at the start and stop but it does in the middle. This is strange since its the same saw that cut that strip on the rail yesterday. I have tried to go back over the cut again trying to actually push the saw into the plywood on the start and stop and it doesn't work. I end up with the same cut.

I don't know if you have the parallel guide (not guides which are different) for your saw, but once I found out that it could also act as an outrigger for cutting on the rails and stabilized the saw I saw how much easier it was to cut bevels and my cuts improved.

Yes, that is the one. It can be used with or without the rail by flipping it over and can be set to either side of the saw. It counters the tipping tendency of the bevelled saw and also gives an outboard hand position.

I don't know if you have the parallel guide (not guides which are different) for your saw, but once I found out that it could also act as an outrigger for cutting on the rails and stabilized the saw I saw how much easier it was to cut bevels and my cuts improved.

Yes, that is the one. It can be used with or without the rail by flipping it over and can be set to either side of the saw. It counters the tipping tendency of the bevelled saw and also gives an outboard hand position.

You also have some strange things happening to the splinter strip. From around 11 to 23 seconds on the video, the splinter strip edge looks like someone attacked it with a burr grinder. Is the saw properly adjusted to the track to prevent any sideways movement?

With the cut being that far away from the splinter strip I would say its possibly over clamping the track. The anti-slip foam strips squash moving the rail closer to the material, and being on a 45 deg angle, it will move the actual cut line at each end of the track.