The scene: Bonefish Grill in West Des Moines just started serving brunch, which is a fantastic way to spend a Sunday. Probably because the brunch is such a new thing, the restaurant was fairly empty at 11:30 a.m. on a recent Sunday. I gathered the restaurant is starting to hype things up, as I saw “Ask your server about our brunch menu” signs on our paper tablecloth and in other places.

Food: Features on the brunch menu include four types of eggs Benedict, six types of omelets and three “brunch favorites.” Any time I see eggs Benedict on a menu, I get very excited, as fewer restaurants than you might think offer this rich and basically perfect (in theory) breakfast dish. Usually I am a purist and will just go with the traditional type of Benedict (English muffin, ham, poached eggs, hollandaise), but I decided to try something special and order the Surf + Turf Eggs Benedict ($13.50). Instead of the ham, Bonefish subbed in both grilled filet mignon and lobster. Our server asked if I preferred the au gratin potatoes or fresh fruit on the side. I knew I should have ordered the fruit, but one bite of those creamy rich potatoes left me with no regrets. However, they were too rich to finish. My husband ordered the “American Style” Kobe Beef + Egg Burger ($12.50) and proclaimed it one of the best burgers he’d ever had, which is saying a lot — the man loves a good burger. For an extra $1, he added bacon and avocado.

If you’re having one of those “Funday Sunday”-type days, you can also order the Endless Bubbles Brunch for $19.90. It gets you basically anything on the brunch portion of the menu, plus all-you-can-drink Bellinis and/or mimosas.

Also, if you’re not keen on breakfast food, there are holdovers from Bonefish’s regular menu — fresh fish, a smattering of appetizers, fish tacos and other dishes.

Service: Attentive and prompt. Bonefish’s brunch service is fairly new so the restaurant was the emptiest I had ever seen it.

Bottom line: Don’t expect Bonefish to be slow at brunch time for long. We’ll definitely be back.