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Romeo and Juliet's doomed love just as relevant today

Doomed but eternal love

Verona Tourism photo

Photograph by: Thilo Weimar

The queue was long. “It must be the most fondled bosom in the world. Touching Juliet’s bust is meant to bring good luck and a happy love life,” Manuela informed me as we watched tourists waiting for a hands-on-up-front-and-personal experience of Miss Capulet. The bust was showing signs of wear and tear. It has been rubbed to a smooth shine.

Thirty years of manhandling has taken its toll. A bronze “B” cup has become an “A” cup.

A Verona city guide, Manuela also works as PA to the world’s oldest agony aunt. Her boss died six centuries ago. At the age of 14.

Fifteen voluntary secretaries work for the “Club di Giulietta,” opening and replying to post addressed to Juliet. They receive 10,000 letters every year. Some are posted in Verona. In the letterbox beneath her balcony.

Nereo Costantini’s bronze sculpture stands in front of Juliet’s five-storey 13th century house, No. 23 Via Cappello. Messages cover the walls. Ivy climbs up to her balcony where couples come to pledge their troth, renew vows, snog and take selfies.

They also come to sign the visitors’ books. “The life is short and I will die one day. So give me some love before I go,” writes Elsa.

“There’s a cap above the archway and over the fireplace inside so we know it probably belonged to the Capulet family,” added Manuela as we stood, looking up at the walls where Romeo “with love’s light wings did o’er perch.” Below there were more giggles and more snapshots.

Romeo and Juliet have a motorcycle racecourse named after them. As well as a camping site, a perfume and a canned fruit company. The courtyard bakery sells “Romeo and Juliet” cakes.

“The balcony wouldn’t have been outside in Juliet’s day. It would have been an invitation to burglars. Outside balconies came in the 15th century. There would have been a balcony in the inner courtyard.”

Couples come to Verona to marry near her empty sarcophagus. Some, like Lord Byron, chip off a souvenir from her tomb. After paying our respects, we enjoyed the view from the Lamberti Tower and strolled the Piazza del Signori which in February, during the city’s “Verona in Love” festival, is covered with a red, heart-shaped carpet. There are concerts as well as a chocolate market in the Piazza Bra.

Our tour took us underground. “Ristorante 12 Apostli”in the Vicolo Corticella San Marco is named after some “consiglieri” who met there regularly in the 1750s. In the wine cellars you can see a section of a Roman street “cardine” and a part of a temple podium.

Over lunch and a bottle “Valpolicella Giovanni Allegrini,” Manuela told me about her other job in a converted garage on the city’s Via Galilei.

“We’ve become busier since the film, Letters To Juliet. One of the first letters I opened was from a Polish girl who wanted to commit suicide. I wrote back telling her not to. I don’t know if she took my advice or if she is alive or dead.”

Manuela’s colleagues include a Belgian, a Russian and a New Zealander. Their “proper” jobs include teaching hula hoop and belly dancing, serving the local Chamber of Commerce and working at the airport.

The only man involved is former cake factory manager, Guili Tamassara who is now 82. His daughter, Giovanna, is in charge.

“We did have a cat. A tom called Romeo!”

The gnocchi arrived followed by pumpkin tortellini with Parmesan mousse and pickled pear.

“It’s a great responsibility writing on behalf of Juliet. The letters she gets are all about un-requited, forbidden and thwarted love. There are many people still suffering in the same way she did with Romeo. They relate to her. She is a symbol of doomed but eternal love. Her story is universal. As relevant today as it was in the 14th century.”

In 1937, shortly, after the release of George Cukor’s film, a letter arrived in Verona. It was simply addressed “Juliet, Verona.” Courteously, the then-curator of Juliet’s tomb, which is in a monastery in the city centre, replied. More letters came and the club was founded.

Every September (7th this year) “Juliet’s Club” stages a feast and birthday party for Juliet in the ancient square of Cortile Mercato Vecchio.

“It does not matter if Juliet was real or fictional,” continued Manuela. “The thing which matters is everyone gets a reply. She gets letters from prisoners, many from Middle-Eastern women. Many from different racial backgrounds whose parents forbid their love and refuse to recognize their relationship.

“Juliet does not theorize or judge. She listens and tries to understand. These people share with Juliet a feeling that the world is against them. That they’re not cut out for happiness. We answer SOSs from modern star-crossed lovers. Three-quarters are from women.”

The dessert trolley trundled up.

“The Italians write passionate letters. So do the French. The French seem to have the most complicated romantic lives. Canadian men can get quite lyrical.”

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