The time Herb Caen wrote about dining at the French Laundry

Thomas Keller in the French Laundry kitchen, August 1994. Photo: The Chronicle

When researching Ron Siegel’s history of cooking in the Bay Area for yesterday’s big scoop, I stumbled upon this item from 1995, written by legendary Chronicle columnist Herb Caen. Thomas Keller had just opened the French Laundry in 1994, and with the buzz building, Caen finally made it up to Yountville to experience a meal there.

This is what he wrote on April 18, 1995:

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“AT LAST: Last Sat. night, I finally got into the French Laundry in Yountville. Don’t laugh. All of a sudden this small (62-seat) restaurant in the gray stone house on the main drag is the toughest culinary ticket in the Bay Area. “I put myself in your hands, ” I said compliantly to the chef-owner, Thomas Keller, whereupon the most amazing assortment of dishes emerged from the tiny kitchen with one stove, three aides (Ron Siegel and Kristina and Stephen Dufsel) and two dishwashers. A few examples: an eggshell containing white truffle custard with a ragout of black truffle; a “Knuckle Sandwich” (an example of Keller’s humor) of Maine lobster, creamy lobster broth and herb salad between brioche slices; “Tongue in Cheek” salad of veal tongue and beef cheeks; “Coffee and Doughnuts, ” with cappuccino semi-freddo and the best cinnamon-sugar doughnuts ever made; grilled Wisconsin cheddar cheese sandwich with potato chips, the thinnest, lightest possible; and a parade of fish, pigeon, scallop and rabbit dishes done with breathtaking mastery.

Fortunately, all the portions are small. Also beautiful. “Would you call your style a brilliant fusion of French, Mediterranean and Californian cuisines?” I inquired of Chef Keller. “I’d call it good cooking, ” he half-smiled. A no-nonsense guy. The Guide Michelin awards three stars, its ultimate accolade, for “worth a special trip.” Keller gets five from me. But phone first.

ADD CETERAS: The French Laundry is so mobbed that Keller is building a new kitchen in the garden. Gad, I hope that doesn’t ruin the place. You know how I feel about progress . . . No, Thomas Keller is not related to Hubert Keller, chef at the Fleur de Lys, or Loretta Keller, chef at Bizou, but thanks for asking.”