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22 May, 2011

Different types of Indian saris

Sarees from North India

1. Banaras Brocade The Banarasi Brocade saree is a must for each bride. There is a huge variety in Banarasi Brocade sarees as the weavers create distinct products for customers across India. Banaras Saris have a wide range of variation. The Banaras brocades are most sought after not only in India but also entire world.

These brocade saris can be divided into several types- Opaque zari brocades or an amru, Amni brocades, tanchois, Banaras brocade, zari brocade, Kincab, tissue brocade. These days we also have Banarasi net saris. Another traditional sari from Banaras is silk Jamdani. Kincab are heavy gilt brocades with considerably more zari visible than underlying silk.

2. Kota Doria / Kota Jali

Kota is a place in Rajasthan and is the place famous & popular for Kota Doria Sarees. These sarees are manufactured in small villages in and around Kota City. These Kota Sarees very lightweight and transparent. The material used in creating such beautiful sarees is cotton. By far these Kota sarees are the lightest cotton sarees in India. Now days these sarees are also available in Silk, but the cotton weaves are simply outstanding. The weaves consists various yarn gauges that create a graph like patterns which is known as Khats and it looks a checkered pattern. These sarees are most suitable for summers. These sarees are very airy and drape gracefully.

3. Other Sarees from this region

The northern region of India is also famous for producing ornate sarees such tanchois, amru brocades, shikargarh brocades and tissues. Abrawans, that literally meaning flowing water, Tissue sarees, usually woven with the finest silk thread are also very popular across India. The most classic design in Abrawans is tarbana which means woven water, with a fine silk warp with a zari weft giving an almost metallic sheen. The sarees look very shimmery and classy. Kincab or Kinkhwab sarees are the most popular in the brocade section and are full of zari patterns that the underlying silk cloth is barely visible. Another Popular type is the Jamavar sarees that originated in Uttar Pradesh. These sarees are embroidered with zari thread. The signature these in Jamavar sarees is the jacquard weave in bright colors like orange, red and green. These colors are also known as “meena” colors.

Another very popular variation that originated in Uttar Pradesh is Organza or Organdy. The material is very light and transparent. In Kanpur and Lucknow, you’ll find organza sarees with embroideries like chikan and Lukhnawi. Another type is called Kora silk sari. That too is sheer and brittle like organza.

4. Phulkari from Punjab and Kashmiri embroidered Sari from Kashmir.

These are not woven Saris but exquisitely embroidered Saris.

These are the embroideries that I like. Specially because they are hand embroideries, done with thread and have no bling of sequins etc.