106 ON AND OFF THE A VENUE THIS AND TH A T r" .... T HE.RE is a ) - very feminine air about the entire _ new spring collec- ----- -- tion of ready-to- wear clothes in Hattie Carnegie's Blue Room. A straight coat of navy short- haIred wool fleece, lined with lipstick- red rayon, has a turnover collar slashed into jagged points, and smal1 stitched tabs are placed low at the sides to give the il1usion of a dropped waistline; $135. A long topcoat of pale Samek tweed, an English fabric, is equipped with gathered V pockets and a broad collar that is faced with rayon velvet; $135, too. A chopped-off version of this IS $ 95 The suits include a perky one of gray flannel with a nipped-in jacket whose two tiny pockets are placed one below the other at one side of the waist; $145. Among the tweed suits is 2t "corselet" model of navy, beige, or gray herrIngbone tweed, with wide ar- row seaming to delineate and emphasize the slender waistline; also $145. Both these sUItS have straight skIrts. The Blue Room is noted for its ensembles, of course, and one of thIS year's tri- 'Umphs is a royal-blue tweed box coat hned with a light-blue surah silk print that involves inky-blue flowers, and ac- companied by a short-sleeved, bare- necked sheath of the surah; $110 all told. A surah silk print (the theme is bronze bubbles on a cocoa background) makes a full-skirted, low-necked dress and a fitted jacket that's a bIt longer than waist-length; this is $110, too. The coat dress I liked best is a wil- lowy princesse number of gray worsted. I ts Puritan collar and wide Puritdn cuffs of tucked white Irish linen are edged with Irish cotton lace, and it costs $95. And I'd like to direct everyone's attention to a slim dress of navy silk, with crisscross bands of shirring de- murely encircling it at the neck and waist Sizes here run from 8 to 18. ANOTHER intelligent and pleasant .r-l. collection of suits and dresses is at J. J . Jonas, 14 \Vest 55th Street. A gray-and-black tweed suit has a short fitted jacket that is lined wIth Shocking- pink rayon crêpe. In navy wool, there's a springlike skirt stitched into sunburst pleats that are equally flattering to long and short legs. The neat little jacket of this is lined with peppermInt-striped ray- on taffeta. For the end of spring and the beginning of summer, you mIght consider a ,;uit of cotton In a gay gray- and-white or brown-and-white harle- quin pattern. There's something very special about two of the silk linen dresses here. A sleeveless one in ligh t blue, with a long, slender torso and a side-pleated skirt, has a narrow, tubular belt of the linen, and a short-sleeved princesse one in daffodil has a flaring skirt and no belt at all Both dresses are perfectly beauti- ful. The evening dresses are not only beautIful but romantic. A floating af- fair is --alternating horizontal bands of red-and-white dotted swiss and whIte imitation Valenciennes lace. It goes over a bouffant petticoat of white or- gandie and white nylon net. For in- tense young women, a flame chiffon is fitted and draped from the bosom al1 the way down the right side but flutters free on the other side. It is something to be- hold, and to try on. Prices run from $39.95 to $350, and sizes from 8 to 38, but if your size is out of stock, you must he prepared to wait two or three weeks. ALL the traditional merriment of the .r-l. new spring hat is in evidence in \Vilham J .'s millinery establishment, at 44 West 54th Street. I'll begIn wIth his custom stuff. An inverted saucer of bright-red straw cloth is trimmed with short-stemmed red silk poppies and leaves. Yellow cotton daffodIls and yel- low chiffon butterflies flourish on a disc w { of grass-green velvet. A plaque of violet burlap is topped off with a life-size stalk of purple silk iris shooting up from its center. This is for girls who want to look taller. And there are also moss-green saucers of nylon net, as well as pill- boxes and profile caps decked out wIth strawberries, half-ripe peaches, baby lemons, or a mIxture of crab apples and ivy leaves. The custom hats start at $32 and ascend to $65. The ready-to-wear ones range from $16.95 to $25.95. Among them are some marvellous turbans-a cornucopia composed of yards and yards of sapphire-blue and emerald-green malines; a navy malines beehive on which lilies of the valley are scattered; a cap of white Swiss organ die with small pink silk roses, daisies, and green leaves emhroidered above the brows. A natural leghorn cloche can be banded with the shop's own striped-silk four-in-hand or, if you're in the mood, one of your husband's Christmas ties. '- J OHN FREDERICS' pretty ready-to- wear hats, for the young and light of heart, are on view at Altman's Young Colony Hat Bar. One of Mr. Fred's caps, of woven raffia, multicol- ored and bristling with loose strands of the straw, looks exactly lIke a small, sun-struck haystack. The high crown of a cloche of white straw braid is spat- .LJ. I uP ,