niko gypsy doesnt know what he is talking about LOL turnigy not tenergy,,,,,,,,,,jk ...........i have 8 of the nanotech lipos they are great and cheap ....i have 1 7.4volt that one of the cells is getting fat so i dont know how much longer it will last ,,i have had it for 6 months and it was only $7 so if i chunk it in the trash oh well i got my 7 dollars worth

gcw360..............And why's that?? It's been in this current configuration for 2 years now with well over 50,000 rounds. The only thing I've replaced is a limp spring & I broke the gear end off my tappet plate once..... I'd say $20 worth of parts a maintenance issue but not catastrophic. I actually downgraded from running a sp170 because heavy bb's cost too much to run on full auto.....LOL. Choice parts & preventative maintenance can mean all the difference. I don't understand why some people expect high performance from their AEG's but don't want to do the work to keep them running tip top. All my firearms get maintained after an outing at the range so why shouldn't my equally expensive airsoft versions too? Anyways, you have to pay to play.......And even if I blew the gearbox a new one would set me back $30 for this particular gun which is like two bags of bb's.... What about a 14.8v lipo scares you? I can recommend some choice parts to make it run butter smooth.

gcw360..............And why's that?? It's been in this current configuration for 2 years now with well over 50,000 rounds. The only thing I've replaced is a limp spring & I broke the gear end off my tappet plate once..... I'd say $20 worth of parts a maintenance issue but not catastrophic. I actually downgraded from running a sp170 because heavy bb's cost too much to run on full auto.....LOL. Choice parts & preventative maintenance can mean all the difference. I don't understand why some people expect high performance from their AEG's but don't want to do the work to keep them running tip top. All my firearms get maintained after an outing at the range so why shouldn't my equally expensive airsoft versions too? Anyways, you have to pay to play.......And even if I blew the gearbox a new one would set me back $30 for this particular gun which is like two bags of bb's.... What about a 14.8v lipo scares you? I can recommend some choice parts to make it run butter smooth.

Hi Standard4130. I hope my post didn't put you off. You sound like the kind of airsofter that can handle mods and upgrades. More often than not that is not the case though based on the guns I repair (this is not a through down to Forum members!!!). I am basing my comment on a number of years of experience where every time I have encountered a customer using a 14.8 the gun shredded in like 20K rounds or less.

Hi Standard4130. I hope my post didn't put you off. You sound like the kind of airsofter that can handle mods and upgrades. More often than not that is not the case though based on the guns I repair (this is not a through down to Forum members!!!). I am basing my comment on a number of years of experience where every time I have encountered a customer using a 14.8 the gun shredded in like 20K rounds or less.

I am glad to hear you make it work.

No problem, You didn't put me off and I understand where you are coming from with regards to some players & their equipment. I like to explain upgrades to an AEG like explaining upgrades to a car. Just like a car.....Doubling the HP with forced induction does not mean just installing a turbo/supercharger.......... other parts are needed for reliability concerns & sometimes a new/better motor is the ticket.... . Aside from purchasing a quality mosfet w/soft start ($90), most other upgrades needed to pull off a reliable 14.8v setup are cheap....or at least what I consider cheap. My upgrade list is short & typically includes a lipo ($10to$15), wiring ($7), a spring ($15), Motor ($25to$35), piston ($20) & bucking ($6)............... A good shim job if the stock ones are whack, adjust AOE if necessary, I like to space my springs for max output, I mod the tappet plate for more stroke, adjust hop-up return spring tension & lightly lube where it's needed. On a KWA running a thinner grip helps gauge motor temp........VFC's fit perfect. So to sum it up.....close to $200 worth of parts on top the price of the gun itself gets me a beast of a gun.........And it's worth the premium.......LOL

The milliampere-hour (mAh) rating is how long the battery will last before it needs recharging. This battery has a very low capacity, only 850mAh.

Even my smallest 7.4v LiPO has a 1300mAh capacity. It's my understanding that LiPO batteries are easily damaged if discharged below a certain voltage level. A low capacity battery will reach that point quicker than one with more capacity.

I just recently purchased the Firefox 7.4v 1200 mah 20C Li-po (2pcs) and a Matrix 7.4 1300 25c stick battery brand new, with a Tenergy Balance charger for both lipo's. Now, I've never used lipo's before as I have two intellect 1600mAH "nun-chuck" batteries that work just fine.

Question is..why is the ROF with the Intellect batteries HIGHER than they are with the Lipoly's?
When I use the 1600's with the SR5 the ROF is noticably higher...why? Are the batteries no good? They don't seem to have any visible defects that I'm warned to look for... I also use a battery bag for the sake of safety. Both batteries have been charged (not sure how the charger works, Tenergy didn't provide very detailed instructions) though I'm not sure how long I should have the battery charging *it's been an hour*.....I was told that 7.4's are on par/equal to a 9.6 and...oh god Im rambling..

ANYWAY, I'm not sure if this is normal, would it damage my rifle? I've sent three emails to both companies and have yet to get a reply (1 month now)... this may or may not be something you guys can help me with. I've already googled so much it gives me a headache so ANY help to lay my fears to rest regarding lipo's would be greatly appreciated of course!

Electrical power is measured in Watts: Volts x Amps. The motor requires or draws a certain Wattage and since the formula is linear when the Volts go down the Amperage draw goes up: you need more Amps. The motor's speed and hence the gun's cyclic rate is voltage driven assuming the battery supplies enough amps.

Battery capacity is measured in Amphours (1 amp for 1 hour is an Amphour). In this case it's milliamp hours (1/1000 amp) but the wattage demands still drive the system. A 7.4v battery will be drained of more (milli)amphours than an 11.1v for the same wattage. Battery voltage drops under load too. You see this every morning when you start your car.

Read the instructions for your battery charger. The charger's menus are a little daunting at first and there are different settings for LiPOs and NIMH. My Tenergy battery charger shuts off when the battery is charged -- yours should too. New LiPOs benefit from several controlled discharge/charge cycles and the Tenergy will do this too.

Electrical power is measured in Watts: Volts x Amps. The motor requires or draws a certain Wattage and since the formula is linear when the Volts go down the Amperage draw goes up: you need more Amps. The motor's speed and hence the gun's cyclic rate is voltage driven assuming the battery supplies enough amps.

Battery capacity is measured in Amphours (1 amp for 1 hour is an Amphour). In this case it's milliamp hours (1/1000 amp) but the wattage demands still drive the system. A 7.4v battery will be drained of more (milli)amphours than an 11.1v for the same wattage. Battery voltage drops under load too. You see this every morning when you start your car.

Read the instructions for your battery charger. The charger's menus are a little daunting at first and there are different settings for LiPOs and NIMH. My Tenergy battery charger shuts off when the battery is charged -- yours should too. New LiPOs benefit from several controlled discharge/charge cycles and the Tenergy will do this too.

-- Chuck

Chuck, thanks so much for your reply.. so your charger shuts off when the battery is charged? Is it the Tenergy Balace Charger (small silver colored box, /w two leds and on/off switch) or another type? If mine is supposed to do the same then I think this unit is fried.. and it's brand new.. guess i'll have to call Evike about replacing this unit?

"Typically speaking, when you use 7.4v Li-po batteries, you need more amps.
So, anything less than 2000 mah's w/ a 7.4v Li-po is not helping you."

So from this I can derive that the Evike tech that I had spoken to prior to purchasing the two battery packs is full of sh*t, and has no clue what he was talking about when he advise me that the amps(?) on both would provide me "high ROF without sacrificing the internals.." one is a 1200 (20c), the other 1300 (25c)

SO I guess this brings me back to one of my questions about the SR5, but I'll ask you guys here.. which small stick-type Lipoly would be prefferable for the SR5? Good ROF, long life, without having to do anything with the internals (for now) and, which brands I should stay away from... annnd, I guess I have two batteries that aren't doing squat for me.. money wasted..

My charger is the TB6AC from the Pro Shop (here). These all seem to be the same basic charger regardless of brand. Mine has a built in 110v power supply (the AC in the model number I guess). All the charging algorithms are in the charger's software.

I'm using the BOL 11.1v 1400mHa 15C LiPo (also from the Pro Shop) as well.

I also have two 7.4v LiPOs which work perfectly and provide a more realistic cyclic rate.
Spyder 1300mAh 15C
Power Wing 1500mAh 30C

KWA recommends a C-rating of no more than 15C so my Power Wing battery is, perhaps, too powerful as it will output 45 amps momentarily.

Quote

So what does the C rating on a lipo mean? For starters, the C in C Rating stands for capacity. To break it down to its simplest terms, the C rating is the maximum safe continuous discharge rate of a pack. If you see 10C on your battery, it means it can be discharged at 10 times that pack's capacity. Capacity refers to the milliamp-hour rating of the battery, which will be listed as a number followed by mAh (2000mAh, for example).

Here's the easy way to find your battery's discharge rate just multiply the number from the C rating by the pack's capacity. Keep in mind that 1000 milliamps equals one amp. Here's an example, using an 11.1V 2000mAh 10C

today i got some batteries from my second airsoft love, G&P, they are 7.4V 1200mah mini deans and wait for it.... 30c, what damage would this do to a gun, if any? i doubt that i can return them, fyi, i ordered form redwolf