Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Spring in New York City can be tough. One day it will be bright and shiny weather, no jacket required. But just when you’re packing away your heavy coat, the next day will bring freezing rain and snow. The farmers' markets reflect this instability by refusing to offer anything but the same old turnips, potatoes and carrots that have been there for the past few months.

But you know what? That’s okay, as I’ve got a big batch of Ninfa’s spicy pickled carrots to snack on right now.

Ninfa’s pickled carrots are not on the menu, but they’ve been offering them for as long as I can remember. When you go to Ninfa’s, you have to ask for these carrots as they’re served by request only. But when you say, “I’d like the carrots, please,” the server will nod and smile, as if the two of you are privy to a delicious secret.

What makes these carrots so special? Well, they’re tender yet crisp rounds that have been marinated in a tangy, earthy blend of vinegar, oregano, cumin, onions, and chiles de arbol. A few slices of jalapeño are added for extra heat, but unlike other escabeches, carrots play the leading role.
Apparently, Ninfa’s on Navigation now offers a fajita burger (which I’m eager to try), and they serve the carrots on the side. This is a brilliant choice, as I’ve long added a few of the pickled carrots to my tacos al carbon as a way to balance out the richness of the beef. But why they don’t automatically serve the carrots with every meal is still a mystery, as along with Ninfa’s green sauce these spicy carrots help complete the meal.

A few years ago, the Houston Chronicle published the recipe for the carrots, noting that the proper name for the dish is curtido. (Who knew?). I’ve been sitting on that recipe for quite some time, but I finally whipped up a batch and was pleased at what a snap they are to make. In no time, my kitchen began to smell like a Tex-Mex joint and Houston didn’t seem so far away.

Now, this recipe packs quite a lot of heat—heck, even my fireproof palate was slightly singed after eating them—so please proceed with caution if you’re sensitive to that, and perhaps cut back on the chiles. But despite the fire, the flavor is just as I remembered it—peppery, soulful and bright. And while I wait for spring to finally get here, snacking on these spicy pickled carrots will be a fine way to patiently bide my time.

Method:
In a medium-sized pot, add the water, vegetable oil, vinegar and chiles de arbol. Bring to a boil and then turn the heat down to medium. Cook for 5 minutes, uncovered.

Add to the pot the cumin, oregano, black pepper and salt. Continue to cook on medium for 5 more minutes. Add the sliced carrots, onions, garlic and jalapeño, and cook for 10 minutes, or until the carrots are your desired texture. Taste and add more salt if you prefer.

Cool and then refrigerate. Will keep for one month refrigerated.

Yield: about 2 pints

Note: Chiles de arbol can be found at Mexican grocers and many regular supermarkets. And be aware that these carrots are very hot, so you might want to cut back on the chiles de arbol.

Yes! Thank you for your nod to Ninfa's. Ninfaritas were one of the most eagerly anticipated treats when I was at Baylor. I think they were like $1.50 at happy hour and man, they packed a punch. I never knew the carrots existed, though. When we visit the fam in Waco, I'll be sure to order. And feel really cool doing so. :)

Oh, thank you!!! I needed that recipe! Every time I get back to Texas, the first thing I have to do is eat at Ninfa's on Navigation in Houston. I can make a whole meal off the soft flour tortillas and these carrots!

I love picked carrots! I recently made Clotilde's version of carrots picked with a ginger-vinegar base (from Chocolate & Zucchini), which was delicious as well. I look forward to using my picking jar for this.

I love pickled carrots too! I'll eat the jalapenos and onions too, but the carrots are the stars!

A note on the heat: in the winter time, chili plants take longer to ripen. The longer the pepper is on the vine, the hotter it is. So, winter peppers are often much spicier than spring and summer, even from the same plant. Try it again when the weather warms up, and it might not be such an assault on the taste buds.

i am going to have to try the carrots next time i go to ninfa's, but will have to work up the courage to ask for them. i am afraid that the waiter will not know what i am talking about. i LOVE their green sauce that they serve with their red salsa and chips. do you have a recipe for that?rats, now i am craving ninfa's and it closed here in fort worth...i'll have to wait until i am in college station.

I just stumbled across your blog, and what a wonderful recipe to greet me! I am also a Homesick Texan, in Michigan for now. This carrot recipe will carry me through 'til my summer trip to San Antone. Thanks!

Sadly, I don't have a Ninfa's near me, but I remember always asking for extra carrots at another popular Mexican restaurant nearby. I am so gonna make these. It's my favorite way to eat carrots. Just made a big old 5 gallon jar of Christmas pickles. The carrots will be another fun treat in the fridge! Thanks!

I have never had pickled carrots but these look awesome. I love the heat! And yes, they are perfect for March/April when it's supposed to be spring but it isn't. I did finally see some asparagus the other day, and I'm hopeful that spring peas are coming soon, but for now - hot hot hot carrots!

YUM....I LOVE these Ninfa's carrots. Molina's used to make them but I was there on Friday and they said NO MORE CARROTS. Wahhhh! Oh well, Ninfa's (on Navigation) is still my favorite anyway. When you make these your whole house will smell like Vinegar, but in a GOOD way!

OH MY GOD! We must be channeling the same Ninfa's energy - I spent my Sunday afternoon making escabeche. When I waited tables at Ninfa's about 10 years ago, all the 'in the know' customers would request it. We kept it in a special place in the back walk-in. And I'd take a cup home with me each night...with a Taco a la Ninfa, of course.

Thank you, thank you, thank you. Not too effusive I hope. I've been craving these for quite a long time. Used to get them at a restaurant in LA, but don't live there no more. I've made escabeche before, but couldn't get the right zing to it. Guess what I'm making this week? Your recipe of course, and have to say I look forward to trying more of your recipes.

YUM! Gotta make these...They sound wonderful! I lived in Austin for 30 years and am trying not to be toooooo homesick...but never came across these delightful carrots... Your site always brings a smile... I spent 10 days in NYC the end of Oct last year. It was unseasonably warm and wonderful... I'm looking fwd to visiting again...

i lovelovelove these! i so miss the pickled vegetables from ninfa's - piled on top of my chips with some queso to complete the cycle of flavors.

also, have you seen this? http://www.29-95.com/restaurants/story/houston-one-great-unsung-restaurant-citiesi thought you'd appreciate it, having lived in houston (you may have seen it already - i just saw it posted by shipley's on fb)

Grew up in San Antonio but have now lived in Houston since '74. Enjoy reading your blog and realize how lucky I am to be able to find the ingredients I need to make the Tex-Mex I love - or head out the door with many choices for good mexican food. Just wish that Houston had S.A. Tex-Mex - Puffy tacos etc. It amazes me that certain items are still very regional.

Another blog I follow is the Amatuer Gourmet. Noticed today that he blogged about a place in Queens that he went to get homemade masa and a store where he purchased dried peppers. He also gave the directions on which bus to take etc. http://www.amateurgourmet.com/2011/03/tortilleria_nixtamal.html#more

I love the carrots at Ninfas. Yum!!I will have to try making them at home. I was looking at your bread and butter jalapeno recipe. I buy mine at Brookwood and the liquid they are packed in is VERY syrupy. I wondered if yours turn out that way.

Having grown up with Luling and Lockhart BBQ it makes me happy that you have access to good BBQ. I love NYC - one of my favorite cities to visit and eat my way around town.

Enjoy your blog - you do a really nice job with your pictures and your posts.

As a native Houstonian, I remember these super-fondly! I'm at grad school now and used this recipe as inspiration for something we made for an Iron Chef competition. The secret ingredient was pear and I made carnitas braised in pear nectar (based on a Food & Fire blog recipe), then used yours to make spicy pickled asian pear (instead of carrots). Was absolutely delicious and we won! I imagine it'd be awesome with jicama as well.

Jlynn--I store them in the liquid. When you're done with the carrots, it makes a fantastic salad dressing.

Ramsey--My entire family loves them, too!

Holtnotes--Thank you so much for the kind words. As for puffy tacos in Houston, there's a new place in Houston called El Real Tex Mex that has them. And I'm a big fan of Tortilleria Nixtamal--the best tortillas in NYC.

Thank you for posting this! I think this might be the perfect early pregnancy food (before the heartburn sets in). Get my veggies, and help the baby learn that spicy food is heavenly. Hubby is from Ohio so I need to work extra hard to cancel out those wimpy spice toleration genes.Had some today at 100% Taquito (59 @ Edloe, Houston - don't judge until you try it). Their carrots were picked in a vinegary green salsa. Pretty good.

The only problem with this recipe (and I, too, have horded that Chronicle recipe for years...) is that no matter how many pounds of carrots I use, it still results in "Serving size: ONE", and a serious case of tummy burn.

That recipe sounds great. I'll definitely be trying it. I think the vinegary coleslaw-like condiment that's served with Salvadorean and Columbian food is also called curtido. I need to ask my Spanish-speaking hubby for a translation!

FYI: Ruchi's at Shepherd @ Alabama served these to us last night, only with jalapeño instead of chile de árbol. I brought home the extras, chopped them, and mixed them with chopped celery to marinate overnight. Makes a great salad.

After skipping some of the recipes I had planned for last week in favor of, who would have guessed, tex-mex, I had a good two pounds of carrots to use up... and I remembered this!!! I didn't have any cumin on hand so I substituted plain ol' chili powder, and MAN are these things good! Thanks Lisa!~Bailey

I made these yesterday as written and OMG are they delicious - I let them sit in the frig over night to cool - wow. I made taco's for lunch and these carrots were just what they needed to kick them up. Spicy, tangy with great texture and bite - my new taco staple!

Oh how late I am in discovering your blog and this recipe...as I type this I am sitting in Ninfas on Navigation awaiting my Curtido's to go. I stop by weekly to get my "to go @10 bucks" fix ;). A bit of history on this beloved Houston hotspot in the mid 80's (yes I have been frequenting this gem for several decades...best location Navigation 2nd best now defunct Kirby) they used to have them in a little covered jar on every table.

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