What to do with odd basement stairs

Good morning all!

I'm a fairly avid diy'er and in the framing stages of finishing my basement. I found this site while researching insulation methods a couple of months ago. Huge thanks for all of the awesome information and links to resources regarding rigid foam, along with the how's and why's. It was pretty difficult convincing my s.o. to spend a little more money to do it right vs. fiberglass, and it was even more frustrating dealing with Lowe's extremely aggressive resistance to using xps. One manager there even told me I'd be better off using tyvek house wrap against the inside concrete block walls instead if I was so dead set against the 'proven building techniques' of fg and vapor barrier. So without the knowledge I picked up here, I'm sure it would have a disaster from the start.

I'm getting ready to deal with a couple issues on the stairs, and am not entirely sure what to do here. The treads are not attached to cut stringers, but to some suspect looking cleat technique. The cleats themselves are about 3/4" thick with tons of nails shot in. I have never seen this done this way before, and haven't found anything in Google searches to indicate this is acceptable. Is this ok? Should I be concerned about the strength of these stairs? The house is only 6 years old so I keep thinking it had to have passed inspection, but I know the builder went belly up not long after this house, and have found several things elsewhere that were not really done properly.

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What to do with odd basement stairs

Well, it's funny that you mention that! We're going to have a pool table down there, and a full size fridge, and I cringe to think of the granite guys carrying a couple of slabs down to the future bar I just dug up the inspection report, and there was no mention of the stairs at all.

What to do with odd basement stairs

The contractor probably went belly up because his guys used too many nails!

It is my opinion that stairs built like this are much stronger than the ones where the stringer is cut darn near through. The problem I see here is the cleats. It looks like staples were used, unless I am seeing things, and there are so many fasteners that they have probably split the cleat. I would try to remove a cleat with a bar and see what happens. If you can get them off, replace them with clear Douglas Fir 2 x 4 cleats that are through drilled for (2) 3 inch by 1/2 inch lag bolts. 45 the lower corners, or belt sand round for looks, and ankle saving.

Place and tack the cleats in place coating the back with liquid nails adhesive. Pilot drill the stringer in the through holes of the cleats, and screw in your lag bolt with a flat washer till the flat washer starts to cut into the grain of the cleat. Countersink and fasten treads to cleats with (3) 3 inch deck screws. Apply rubber grips over treads.

Your stairs will then hold anything you throw at them. (Within Reason)

__________________" A lot of men build things, and a lot of things fall down "

What to do with odd basement stairs

The contractor probably went belly up because his guys used too many nails!)

You have no idea how right you probably are! And so many nails all over that missed their intended targets.

I think you're also correct about staples being used to attach the cleats. And some of those pieces do look a little mutilated from the amount of fasteners shot in. I'll try to pry one off when I get some better lighting, but it might be challenging with what looks like lots of liquid nails in there already.

Thanks for your take on the strength of that particular way of doing it. Even if I do have to replace the cleats, I feel better knowing I'm not jerry rigging it. Would it be correct to then use plywood, nailed (conservatively) and glued to make the risers before carpeting?

Also, although the stairs are not wobbly per say, they do have a lot of vibration I've noticed. Will that go away with wall framing under the stringers for the drywall?