Although not as well as known as some of the Neapolitans, he is up there with the best in my relatively limited experience (visited perhaps a dozen, jackets from three). The fit is spot on, the experience was easy and the work inside is sumptuous. Although much of this is a matter of taste (and how much you want to spend on impractical details), it is always interesting to see how impressed English cutters are with internal finishing. The Cifonelli double breasted was another example.

The Caliendo jacket is quarter lined, with the jacket cloth at the front and a little silk across the back. I like the double stitching around the edges, but only because it is subtle, being an almost identical colour to the cloth. Contrast stitching I don’t like.

Elia, the son of founder Biagi Caliendo, is a little cheaper than other Neapolitans at £2800, but there are certainly cheaper tailors there too. My favourite shot from the visit is below – of one of the tailors working on a basted jacket outside a side door at the atelier. If only I could find an excuse to go back.

I really like everything about it except the price, though with the meticulous attention to detail and quality of everything on the jacket, i am not totally surprised. The double stitching is, as you describe, very discreet but adds a new dimension when viewed closer. The breast pocket is delightful but somewhat small meaning that the pocket square does push out on the pocket fabric somewhat. On the other hand it looks more natural in its design.Of particular interest to me were the trousers that you were wearing with the jacket. The colour, a perfect compliment to the jacket, and the cloth, the right texture. Could you provide a little more detail on them please. Finally, it would have been good to have seen a full length photograph so one could see the whole ensemble and then to complete the article, a one-liner of everything you had on which if i recall from earlier articles, it is something that you have done before. This is very helpful for those of us who are looking for inspiration and more importantly, where to go and buy it.As always – excellent content.Best regardsBradley Viljoen

Hi Simon,Strangely enough, I was on the verge to ask you about this jacket! I once saw the pic of the breast pocket, and then nothing more. It looks great and suits perfectecly to such an event. Yes, you are “chic” in this outfit!

What disturbs me is the pricing, though! Yet if the fashion industry keeps on working properly, we should have this style in the near future as RTW…

JohnPS: please, do take note that access to your website at certain times has become difficult.

I think the pricing is pretty reasonable, given Rubinacci is a good £500 more. Plus, that is Elia’s London price, factoring in travel, hotels etc (he is in London every month). Go to Naples and it will be a bit cheaper.

Surely the jacket button is placed too high? Having such a large amount of shirtfront peeking out between the buttoned jacket and the top of the trousers makes the outfit look like it was tailored for someone else.

Simon,Thanks for the great blog, I truly appreciate your efforts and personal style. I love the Caliendo jacket and was interested in having a bespoke jacket made in the Neopolitan style (in a fall/autumn weight) but am ‘stuck’ in NYC and do not travel abroad. Any recommendations on bespoke tailors in NYC or do you know if Caliendo travels to the US? BTW, I have done a few MTM Ralph Lauren suits but want to upgrade to a bespoke for this one.Yosef

Hi Yosef, no I’m afraid I don’t know any tailors in New York who will make in a Neapolitan style and Elia doesn’t travel to the US. Others do from Naples though- Solito and Napoli su Misura for example

A quick post before joining friends to watch the Parisian July,14th fireworks. As to the shoes, you also made an excellent choice, be it in style or color: Edward Green’s Asquith. Apparently, an attendant was aware of something unusual going on…The Fireworks have just started! Cheers,John

After seeing the pictures above of the jacket, tie and pocket square I knew it was you I walked past around the Bank of England (must have been en route to / from the party).If I may say, I was in awe of the jacket when seeing it in the flesh. A fantstic piece.

Based on your experience with him, can you say if hes more on the side of accommodating customer requests or more on the side of “here’s my styling, take it or leave it?” For example would he be willing to cut slimmer lapels, around the 8cm range? does he travel to anywhere else besides London? NYC perhaps?

This is a beautiful jacket. Apologies if you have covered this elsewhere, but where in London would you recommend for a similarly relaxed construct and style? I have jackets from Grahame Browne but find them slightly staid and a several trips to Naples simply isn’t a viable option.
Would the likes of Thom Sweeney be worth a shot or would you recommend a visiting tailor such as Solito to ensure the jacket is truly Neapolitan?
Best,
Chris

Hey Chris,
If this is the look you’re after, I’d go with Caliendo or Solito, both of whom travel to London, every 1-2 months. Although I like the Tom Sweeney style, it is more Northern Italian than Neapolitan (and I have yet to see a non-Neapolitan tailor effectively replicate the look)
Cheers

Elia made me a jacket recently which I love. Thanks for the tip-off. I was wondering about asking him to make me a 3 piece suit next, but wasn’t sure if that would fit with the Neapolitan style. Would this work or be an anachronism do you think?

Secondly, in ‘bumping’ an old post I wonder whether you had considered turning your comments pages into a bulletin board a la Style Forum? It would be a great resource for your readers and perhaps increase advertising revenue.