Wednesday, December 20, 2006

Like many of the world's great winemaking areas, Franciacorta is the result of a happy geological accident: It's located at the mouth of the Val Camonica, which was an outlet for the glaciers that covered what are now the Dolomites during the last ice age, and consequently accumulated an enormous volume of coarse calcareous sediments in both the ground moraine that serves as the topsoil over much of the area (there are also fluvial sediments) and in the semicircular end moraines that extend as crescent-shaped ridges of varying heights out into the Pianura Padana. The glacier brought the soil, built up the hills, and provided the final vital piece of the mosaic when it retreated: It left a long deep trough that filled with water to become Lake Iseo, which now acts as a heat sink, taming the summers and making the winters milder than they'd otherwise be.

Gentle hills that lead into a steep-sided mountain valley with a beautiful finger lake, and a mild climate: It's little wonder that the area has long been settled, nor that there should be much to see and do. But whence the name? Though Franciacorta the wine is relatively recent, Franciacorta as a regional name dates back to the middle ages, and there are a number of theories for its origin. The most picturesque is that Carlo Magno, the Holy Roman Emperor, had sworn he'd be in France on San Dennis's Day. However, when the day came he found himself on the shores of Lake Iseo, so he named the place Franciacorta, which roughly translates as "Little France". Another decidedly more anti-French legend states that Charles of Anjou and his troops overstayed their welcome, provoking an uprising whose leaders cried, "Frenchmen, leave, for here France's reign will be brief! (Francia sarà Corta!)" As is often the case, the most likely explanation is considerably less dashing: A number of the more important towns in the area were under the Benedictines, and were declared francae curtes -- exempted from paying taxes -- in exchange for reclaiming and farming marginal lands. Regardless of the etymology of Franciacorta, its boundaries were established by the Venetian Doge Francesco Foscari in 1429, and have remained unchanged since then.

Having spoken of Franciacorta the region, it's time to discuss the wine. The area is ideally suited to viticulture, and indeed grape seeds dating to prehistoric time have been found, while both Virgil and Cato the Elder mention the wine produced during the Roman period. Burton Anderson says it was Rhaetic, which "was apparently pale red in color and not as sweet or strong as wines from the hotter climates of southern Italy (Franciacorta, Italy's Sanctuary of Sparkling Wine, P. 19). Following the transfer of power from the Romans to the Lombards there was a long period of turmoil during which viticulture survived thanks to the monasteries, but by the time the Free Communes united under the Lega Lombarda in the 12th century Franciacorta was again dotted with vineyards, many of which, counter to the practice common at the time of mixing vines with other crops or planting them along field boundaries, were true vineyards in the modern sense, with the vines arranged in rows about a meter apart and trained up poles sunk into the ground -- an arrangement that sounds very much like the Alberello system now common in southern Italy.

We do know more about the wines produced during this period; they were both red and white, and made from a variety of grapes. Some were sweet, others dry, and there was one that now seems prophetic: It was called Mordace, which means sharp or aggressive, and it sparkled. It was also popular, so popular that in 1570 Girolamo Conforto, a doctor from Brescia, published Libellus de Vino Mordaci, The book of Vino Mordace, which he describes as "spicy or biting; it doesn't dry the palate the way acidic or austere wines do, and doesn't make the tongue floppy the way sweet wines do. Some provokes the hiccoughs and affects the brain or the eyes, which [because of the sparkle] tear up..." Conforto said that the wines sparkled more in the winter and lost their sparkle in the summer, and the fact that the sparkle held as long as it did in the absence of bottles capable of capturing and holding the gas responsible for the sparkle (they came more than a century later) indicates that the producers knew how to slow and prolong the fermentation, so as to keep the bubbles forming.

Oddly enough, despite the tradition of making vino mordace nobody in Franciacorta thought to imitate Champagne, nor did anyone think to follow the lead of the Piemontese, who called in French winemakers in the 19th century and began making a sparkling version of Cortese that can be very nice. The landowners may simply have felt that the region was better suited to reds; Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, and Merlot were introduced, and the wines enjoyed an excellent reputation. Alas, the phylloxera epidemic that swept Europe in the late 19th century devastated the region and many landowners simply couldn't afford to replant, so their land declined, while others planted high-yielding varietals and made plonk. World War I did nothing to improve the economic outlook, nor did Fascism, and the area was again devastated by the fighting between Partisans and Nazi-Fascisti (Mussolini's last stronghold, the Repubblica di Salò, was nearby) during World War II. At the end of the war farmers again replanted, again with high-yielding clones, and began cranking out more plonk.

The situation was grim but not hopeless; in 1954 Guido Berlucchi, who thought the local reds were poor and overpriced, hired Franco Ziliani to oversee the production of his estate, Castello di Borgognato. In the course of an interview Mr. Ziliani told Burton Anderson that they decided to introduce a new Pinot Bianco-based wine, which they called Pinot di Franciacorta, and that in 1958 he decided to make a sparkling version following the techniques developed in Champagne. It took him a couple of years to get it right, but the first 3000 successful bottles were a hit, so the next year he made 20,000 and sold them all. This brings us to the mid-60s, when the producers of the region applied for DOC status for Franciacorta Pinot and Franciacorta Rosso, which they expected would be their primary wine. We now know otherwise, but the rules governing the production of the Rosso do give a good indication of the independence of the winemakers and their willingness to innovate: They ignored the traditional local varietals in favor of French and Piemontese grapes, in particular Cabernet Franc (40-50%), Barbera (20-30%), Nebbiolo (15-25%) and Merlot (10-15%), which they thought would yield better wines. The Pinot was, instead, Pinot Bianco, but as Berlucchi's sales of sparkling wines continued to soar the other producers began to follow suit, and soon many realized they had a problem: The nurseries were haphazard in their identifications, and much of what had been sold as Pinot Bianco was actually Chardonnay. This isn't as bad as it sounds; the varietal proved superbly suited to the region, and the producers simply called it Pinot, as Chardonnay wasn't allowed by the DOC.

The area under vine expanded from 50 to 550 hectares between 1967 and 1983, with sparkling wines clearly leading the way (Berlucchi had in the meantime left the DOC because they were making so much sparkling wine they had to outsource grapes), so the DOC was updated to reflect the new situation. For the Rosso this meant allowing the use of Cabernet Sauvignon, and up to 15% other red varietals. The changes to the white were much more important: Franciacorta Pinot was replaced by several wines: Franciacorta Bianco, which was still and made from Pinot Bianco and/or Chardonnay; Franciacorta Spumante, which was made from Pinot Bianco and/or Chardonnay, with up to 15% Pinot Grigio or Pinot Nero fermented off the skins; and Franciacorta Rosato Spumante, which contained 15% Pinot Nero and up to 15% Pinot Grigio in addition to white grapes. Virtually all the sparkling wines were bottle-fermented following the metodo classico, i.e. the techniques used in Champagne, and though there wasn't an aging requirement for them most producers let the wine interact with the yeasts for at least a year in the bottle before disgorging the wines.

In 1990 29 Franciacorta producers founded the Consorzio Volontario di Tutela dei Vini Franciacorta DOC because they thought it would better serve their interests than the Consorzio per la Tutlea dei Vini DOC Bresciani that had been overseeing them; one of the first things the new Consorzio did was to tighten the production standards, requiring high-density vineyards and bottle fermentation -- not tank -- to achieve the sparkle, among other things. It also registered the name Franciacorta and decreed that the sparkling wines be labeled just Franciacorta, with no bubbly modifiers such as Spumante or Metodo Classico, though people do refer to the wine as Bollicine -- Bubbles -- in conversation. By 1994 the Consorzio had 142 members, and was assigned the task of administering the newly created Franciacorta DOCG appellation, which is reserved for the area's sparkling wines (still wines are now Terre di Franciacorta Bianco and Rosso DOC, respectively). In terms of vineyard area, there are about 1500 hectares, 865 of which are dedicated to Franciacorta DOCG.

Chardonnay is by now the primary grape, though some producers continue to use Pinot Bianco as well, and there are a few who also use Pinot Nero. The DOCG requires that each varietal and vineyard be harvested (by hand) separately, and most of the producers keep the pressings of their grapes separate as well, because the musts from the pressings differ (some top producers sell the must from the lesser pressings). The individual pressings are fermented separately, in some cases in steel and in others in wood, and come summertime the winemaker assembles the cuvée by blending the various wines. It's an extraordinarily delicate task that Bellavista's Mattia Vezzola likens to assembling a mosaic -- there can be many as 50 or 60 wines (many wineries have vineyards scattered throughout Franciacorta), and the winemaker has to keep not just the house style in mind, but also the style of the particular wine he is blending.

As is the case with Champagne, much Franciacorta is non-vintage, which allows the winemaker to blend a number of vintages to obtain greater complexity and depth, but there is also vintage Franciacorta, which is made from at least 85% of a given vintage. Though one might expect vintage Franciacorta to be superior, this isn't necessarily the case. Non-vintage wines tend to be more consistent from year to year, and also more harmonious -- the winemaker assembling the cuvee is, after all, aiming for a whole greater than its component parts. Vintage wines instead reflect the vintage that produced them, and are therefore more distinctive, with unusual aspects to discover; opening one is like unwrapping a surprise. While surprises can be very nice, there is much to be said for consistency too, and vintage and non-vintage can be equally satisfying.

Returning to the wines, once the cuvée is assembled, it goes into the bottle it will be sold in, together with liqueur de tirage, a sugar-and-yeast solution, and the bottle is then capped with a crown cap and put into the cellar, where the yeasts slowly ferment the sugars in the liqueur, producing the CO2 that will provide the sparkle, and also interact with the wine, contributing complexity and elegance; the longer the wine rests the more interaction there is. Franciacorta's non-vintage wines must rest on the lees for at least 18 months, whereas the vintage wines must rest on them for at least 30 months. These are minimum times, and many of Franciacorta's wineries have wines that are much older still resting on their lees, awaiting a special occasion for the next step.

In other words, disgorgement, which begins with remouage -- the bottles are arranged in poupitres, racks whose inclinations can be changed, and every day each bottle is given a deft shake-and-twist (usually by hand, though some producers are experimenting with mechanical systems) that shifts the sediments; over a period of weeks the bottles are brought to the vertical, while the sediments collect against the caps, leaving the wine crystal clear. At this point the bottles are put, upside down, into a chilled solution that freezes the sediment in the neck. The icy sediment comes out when the cap is removed, the bottle is topped off, a classic sparkling wine cork is inserted and tied down with a wire basket, and the wine is ready for labeling and sale.

Like Champagne, Franciacorta is made in a number of different levels of dryness, which are determined by how sweet the liquid used to top off the bottle after disgorging the sediment is. The driest, Non Dosato (whose French analog is pas dosé), is topped off with the same wine already in the bottle or an aged wine, and can contain no more than 3 grams of sugar per liter. Extra brut and the other sweeter categories instead receive a sugar solution known as a liqueur d'expédition; extra brut can contain up to 6 grams of sugar per liter, brut and brut Satén up to 15 grams, sec up to 35 grams, and demisec up to 50 grams. Which you choose will depend upon your preference and the occasion. Franciacorta Rosé ranges from Brut to Demisec.

Satén merits an aside. It's a softer, more seductive Franciacorta made by adding less liqueur de tirage to the bottle before it's laid down to acquire its sparkle (18 grams of sugar per liter, as opposed to 25 for the other kinds of Franciacorta), and has begun to attract considerable attention. The name was developed by Bellavista and Cà del Bosco, who made it available to all of Franciacorta's producers when the French were given the rights to the term Crémant. Satén is by law made with white grapes, and most producers make it just from Chardonnay, though some also use Pinot Bianco.

Finally, a word on formats: Most Franciacorta is sold in 750 ml bottles, but you can find other formats as well, including half-bottle (375 ml), magnum (two 750 ml bottles), Jeroboam (4 bottles), Methusalem (8 bottles), Salmanazar (12 bottles), Balthazar (16 bottles), and Nebuchadnezzar (20 bottles). Though some wineries assemble the larger formats from smaller bottles come corking time, many instead do the secondary fermentation in the larger bottles (wrapping them in strong netting lest an exploding bottle destroy several of its neighbors). Since the ratio between the volume of the wine and the area of the yeast layer changes with the size of the bottle, it follows that what emerges from a Nebuchadnezzar will differ from what emerges form a 750 ml bottle even if the cuvée is the same, and this makes horizontal tastings (same vintage, different bottle formats) of Franciacorta potentially quite interesting. If you serve the wines with a dinner after comparing them, the occasion will be memorable.

The Wines

I tasted the wines below at the Franciacorta Festival held in the fall of 2006. Before we get to them, a couple of words on the vintages. 2001 was very good, and the wines quite elegant. 2002 was as wet and cold in Franciacorta as it was elsewhere in Italy, and as a result the wines display considerable acidity and tend to be on the lean side. They are, however, quite drinkable, in a bracing, palate-clearing sort of way. If you like wines with a little bite to them, they can be very nice. 2003 is the flip side of the coin with respect to 2002; the summer was long and hot, and the grapes ripened early, with sugars and other components climbing off the scale while grape acidity dropped dramatically. The resulting wines are bigger and in many cases softer than normal, because there's less of the acidity that normally provides backbone.

Many of the non-vintage wines poured this time were assembled primarily from the 2003 wines, and therefore much of the non-vintage Franciacorta currently on the market is bigger, and softer than usual.

Antica Fratta Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is mineral, with fairly deft acidity and some herbal notes. On the palate it's fairly light, with bright minerality supported by mineral notes and an angry peppery burr from the sparkle, which carries on at length. It's fairly direct, and I'd have liked a touch more acidity and a touch less pepper -- it feels like a 2003 (and they confirm), and is a bit settled.2 stars

Antica Fratta Franciacorta Brut 2001Pale brassy gold with brassy greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is intense, with floral accents that are a touch surprising in a wine this old, mingled with herbal notes, greenish spice, breadcrumbs, and bitter butterscotch. On the palate it's rich, with bright tropical fruit laced with gunflint bitterness and supported by mineral acidity that becomes quite bitter as the finish fades. It's not quite as dry as some bruts, and as a result comes across as slightly chunky, but will drink nicely as an aperitif or at table.2 stars

Barboglio De Gaioncelli Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Though non-vintage it's primarily 2003, and they increased the percentage of Pinot Bianco to raise the wine's acidity. Poured from a magnum; it's pale brassy gold with gold reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, and brighter than that of many 03 wines, with greenish citric acidity and a fair amount of spice mingled with breadcrumbs and gunflint bitterness. On the palate it's dry, with bright bitter minerality that has an undercurrent of rich sweetness -- the vintage -- but remains light on its feet regardless, and holds quite well into a clean savory mineral finish. Pleasant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with foods. I was unfamiliar with this winery, and it's a nice discovery.2 stars

Barboglio De Gaioncelli Franciacorta Extra Dry (Non-vintage)Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish notes and some sweetness -- it's an 03 -- that's balanced by nice vegetal acidity and some butterscotch; by comparison with other 2003s it's lighter on its feet. On the palate it's full and welcoming, with an undercurrent of sweetness that's the vintage at work, supported by clean citric acidity with mineral overtones that flows into a pleasant citrus-based bitter mineral finish. Quite pleasant, in a bright look-you-in-the-eye-without-blinking key and will work very well as an aperitif or with foods ranging from elegant fish to white meats. All the more impressive considering the vintage.90

Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Brut (non-vintage)Pale, slightly greenish yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish vegetal notes and underlying sweetness mingled with spice and granite minerality. On the palate it's full and rich, with bright mineral fruit supported by clean citric acidity and deft pepper from the sparkle that carries though into a long clean citric finish with peppery overtones. Very pleasant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or throughout the meal. Worth seeking out.91

Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Satèn 2002Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is muted by comparison with the brut's and this is likely the vintage at work; there's some spice and moderate gunflint with underlying vegetal notes. On the palate it's soft and rather thin, with bitter minerality and moderate tart lemon fruit that lead into a clean fairly sour finish. Again, the negative effects of the vintage are evident; this said, it will work well as an aperitif.2 stars

Bellavista Franciacorta Cuvée Brut (Non-vintage, but 2003)Poured from a Magnum: Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish citric fruit supported by heathery minerality and deft breadcrumbs; it's quite harmonious and doesn't give the impression of softness some 2003 wines do. The palate reflects the nose, with rich slightly greenish white berry fruit with pineapple overtones supported by deft citric acidity with mineral accents. Great depth and control, and all the more impressive considering how hot 2003 was; though it is slightly fleshier than a normal vintage would be there's not a hint of sag. A fine choice as an aperitif or with the meal, and a tuna steak would be nice with it. Worth seeking out.90

Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Cuvée Storica Brut (Non-vintage)This is the only Guido Berlucchi wine that qualifies as Franciacorta -- due to production volumes they outsource grapes for their other wines. It's pale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pleasant greenish spice mingled with breadcrumbs and some sea salt. Harmonious. On the palate it's rich and bright with lively lemony fruit supported by citric acidity and clean peppery notes from sparkle that flow into a long citric finish. Very pleasant, in a slightly direct key, and will be nice either as an aperitif or with foods at table. Expect the bottle to go quickly.2 stars

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Brut Cuvée N°4 (Non-vintage)It's an 80-20 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, poured from a magnum. Pale brassy yellow with papery highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with unusual cut floral accents mingled with minerality and sage; it gives an impression of being under tight restraint. On the palate it's fairly full, and soft at first impression, though quite a bit of deft citric acidity does emerge through the peppery notes of the sparkle to hold it together and carry into the finish. I'd have liked it tighter -- it's a bit relaxed -- but think it will drink nicely as an aperitif or at table.2 stars.

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Extra Brut Riserva 2000This is mostly Chardonnay, with 10% Pinot Bianco, and spends 58 months on the lees in bottle prior to degorgement. It's pale brassy yellow with white rim, and has a delicate bouquet with spice and bread crumbs overlying some butterscotch and hints of bitter minerality. It demands attention, rather like someone speaking quietly who has something interesting to say. On the palate it's quite dry, and graceful, with elegant minerality of the liquid granite variety, supported by deft sparkle and citric acidity that flows into a clean savory bitter mineral finish. Quite nice, and will work very well as an aperitif or with foods. In short, versatile, though you may be tempted to drink it far from the table. A pleasant surprise.90

Bonomi Tenuta Castellino Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage, but 2003)Pale brassy gold with white rim and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with delicate ripe banana mingled with some minerality and slightly greenish spice. On the palate it's fairly direct, with ample clean citric fruit supported by slightly greenish overtones. Pleasant, though direct and a touch soft; said softness is the vintage at work. It will be nice as an aperitif or with white meats or fish at table; I found it growing on me.2 stars

Bonomi Tenuta Castellino Franciacorta Brut Satèn (Non-vintage, but 2003)Pale brassy gold with pepery highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with initial banana notes that give way to herbal citric accents and some spice mingled with hints of underbrush. On the palate it's full and soft with ample white berry fruit supported by sparkle and deft tart acidity that flows into a clean tart finish whose mineral acidity provides further definition. Pleasant, and will be nice as an aperitif or at table.2 stars

Bonomi Tenuta Castellino Franciacorta Extra Brut 1999Pale brassy gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with deft breadcrumbs and underlying herbal notes supported by pleasant floral accents and some savory overtones. Quite a bit going on, and graceful too. On the palate it's dry, and elegant, with deft minerality -- it's more mineral than fruit -- supported by sparkle and some acidity that carry into a long mineral finish. Pleasant, and will drink well as an aperitif or with foods, though I'd be tempted to drink it far from the table. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Bosio Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale papery white with some greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish citric accents and lemony fruit; it's direct. On the palate it's fairly full, and rich, with bright grapefruit citrus laced with hints of lemon, and peppery sparkle, which flow into a clean citric mineral finish. It's very much alive, in a direct up-front, what-you-see-is-what-you-get key, and will drink well with fish or cheese antipasti, and also carry through the meal.1 star

Bosio Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale slightly greenish brassy yellow with brassy highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with gunflint mingled with bitterness and minerality that give an impression of richness. On the palate it's direct, with bright fairly full mineral-laced acidity that has some bitter overtones -- mineral more than fruit -- and flows into a clean savory mineral finish. It's quite direct, with no hidden facets, but will drink nicely with foods. I also bound it a touch sharp for a Satèn, which is in theory a softer, more approachable wine. This is approachable in a direct way, but not soft.1 star

Bredasole Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale papery white with brassy gold reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly bright, and a touch overripe, with pickled lemon acidity mingled with some minerality and airy breadcrumbs. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft for a brut, with moderately intense minerality -- not much acidity to provide direction, however, and it flows into a mineral finish. Greater acidity would have provided better definition, and its lack may be the vintage at work.1 star

Bredasole Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale slightly greenish brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some pickled lemon acidity mingled with airy spice, but I didn't find it as exciting as I might have liked. On the palate it's ample, and rather flat, with savory slightly sweet notes that flow into a savory finish. I'd have liked better definition.1 star

Cà Del Bosco Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Poured from a magnum; it's pale papery white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with bright slightly greenish citric fruit supported by breadcrumbs, herbal accents, and hints of butterscotch. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, with ample white berry fruit -- tart plums with citric overtones -- supported by peppery sparkle and pleasant mineral bitterness that flow into a clean tart mineral finish. Quite pleasant, in an oddly rational way -- there's not that spark of the unexpected I find I like in sparkling wines -- and will work well with meats or fish, and also be nice as an aperitif with antipasti.2 stars

Cà Del Bosco Franciacorta Dosage 0 2001This is an extra brut; it's pale papery white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is much defter than the non-vintage Brut's, with breadcrumbs and butterscotch mingled with minerality -- not quite liquid granite, but almost. Inviting, in a demanding way. On the palate it's full and quite dry with deft minerality -- that stone again -- supported by clean mineral acidity that flows into a mineral acid finish with savory bitter peppery overtones. Quite nice, though it does demand the attention of the drinker. Oysters would be good here.88-90

Cantina Chiara Ziliani Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale papery yellow with brassy highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with herbal citroc notes mingled with some spice and pleasing sea salt and slight smoke. On the palate it's dry, and deft, with brisk citric fruit supported by bright minerality and deft acidity that flow into a clean lively finish. Pleasant, and one of those wines you'll suddenly realize you're onto your third glass of. Enjoy it either throughout the meal, or far from the table. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Cantina Chiara Ziliani Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale brassy gold with white rim and fine perlage. The bouquet is softer than the brut's, and also sweeter, though there is some underlying pungency -- there are flowers, and sea salt, but not as much acidity, and it comes across as a touch flat. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample berry fruit supported by less acidity than I'd have liked, while there is also slight residual sugar that further softens it. If feels like the major component was overripe 2003 wine; I await the next vintage.1 star

Cascina San Pietro Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with white rime and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bread crumbs and herbal notes mingled with spice and some pickled lemon overtones. Pleasant. On the palate it's fuller and softer than Bruts normally are, leading me to wonder if it's mostly 2003 -- there isn't much acidity holding it up, and as a result bitter minerality steps in to carry the load. It's a bit too soft for a brut.1 star

Cascina San Pietro Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with white rim and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly soft, with ripe bananas-laced fruit supported by some acidity and mineral accents; the overall impression is one of overripeness. On the palate it's full, with ample mineral-laced white berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and some minerality, though the overall impression continues to be one of softness, to the point of being less well defined than I might have liked. 2003 at work.1 star

Castel Faglia Franciacorta Cuvèe Monogram Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with white rim and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright vegetal notes supported by bread crumbs and butterscotch that comes across as sweetness , with underlying minerality. On the palate it's soft and rather overripe, with ample, fairly sweet white berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and clean savory notes that flow into a long savory butterscotch finish. It's pleasant, though overripe, and isn't as definied as I'd have liked. Again, 2003 at work.1 star

Castel Faglia Cuvèe Magnum Brut (Non-vintage)Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is moderately rich, with greenish notes and some spice mingled with slight minerality and greenish heat. On the palate it's full, and quite soft for a brut, though there is some acidity mingled with lemon fruit. It's bib-boned and a touch settled, both conditions I suspect are attributable to the 2003 vintage.1 star.

Castelveder Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage; the bouquet is fairly rich, with bright slightly vegetal acidity that has some minerality and bitterness with savory overtones. On the palate it's full, and dry, with considerable granitic minerality supported by deft mineral acidity and some peppery notes that flow into a clean spicy mineral finish. Pleasing in a distinctly mineral key, and will be nice either as an aperitif or with foods. It grew on me.2 stars

Castelveder Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly mineral, with gunflint and some spice supported by bitter citric mineral acidity and some sea salt. Not as deft as the brut. On the palate it's full and soft, with moderate sour white plum fruit supported by mineral-laced citric acidity that flows into a celan citric finish. It's clearly the product of a lesser vintage, but holds together nicely, especially on the palate, and will be nice as an aperitif or with foods.1 star

Cola Battista Franciacorta Extra Brut (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tropical fruit -- very ripe pineapple -- laced with mineral acidity and pleasing greenish notes that add depth, as does spice. On the palate it's dry, with savory citric fruit supported by mineral spice that flows into a clean mineral finish. It's pleasant, though you do have to like dry sparkling wines; it will drink nicely as an aperitif or with white meats.2 stars

Cola Battista Franciacorta BrutPale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with fairly rich herbal notes laced with spice and marzipan -- breadcrumb-fruit interaction, perhaps -- and some sea salt. Inviting. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly soft citric fruit supported by peppery notes from sparkle and clean citric acidity. I found it brash and fairly direct, but also welcoming; it will drink well as an aperitif or with flavorful white meats or fish at table.2 stars

Cavalleri Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale brassy gold with brassy highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with crisp apples of the sort I tend to associate with northern white wines, supported by bright acidity and some minerality. Pleasant and refreshing. On the palate it's dry and crisp with clean bitter minerality supported by sparkle and flows into a long clean finish. Quite refreshing and a very pleasant discovery; it will be nice as an aperitif or with foods. Worth seeking out.2 stars.

Cavalleri Franciacorta Brut 2001 Pale brassy golden yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet doesn't have that tantalizing freshness of the non-vintage; it's fairly rich, with lemony acidity, a crisp mineral overlay, and bitter overtones. But not as fresh. On the palate it's full, and rich -- it's not as crisp as some bruts -- with deft citric (lemon and grapefruit) fruit supported by sparkle and mineral acidity that flow into a clean mineral finish, while the sparkle provides fullness and peppery depth. Quite pleasant, and will work very well as an aperitif or with foods, but I liked it a little less than the non-vintage.2 stars.

Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale slightly greenish brassy gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is powerful, with intense gunflint minerality supported by citrus and lesser wet breadcrumbs. On the palate it's dry, and again mineral, with bitter gunflint acidity that leads into a long bitter savory finish. It's far into the liquid stone end of the spectrum, and quite elegant, though you do have to like the style. If you do, seek it out., and enjoy it as an aperitif or with crustaceans or similar.88-90

Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Deft brassy gold with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is bright, and surprisingly fresh, with hints of green apple mingled with some citric notes and dusky hardwood ash. Nice balance and harmonious. On the palate it's rich, full, and soft, with bright citric-laced green apple fruit supported by clean crisp acidity, while the sparkle adds fullness and peppery accents. Quite pleasant in a direct, up front key, and will drink well as an aperitif with all manner of antipasti, or with foods at table. Welcoming, which is what a Satèn is supposed to be.2 stars.

Conti Bettoni CazzagoFranciacorta Brut Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale rather greenish brassy gold with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with citric notes and some mineral overtones laced with breadcrumbs and spice. Inviting. On the palate it's full, and softer than I might have liked, a softness due to the overripeness of the fairly intense fruit, which is enough to reduce the acidity. I commented on its softness, and they say this is what they're aiming for. As such, bull's eye, but I'd have liked a tighter wine.1 star

Conti Bettoni Cazzago Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with butterscotch and herbal notes mingled with citrus and some savory minerality. A fair amount going on. On the palate it's crisp, with rich mineral laced apple fruit that gains definition from bitterness and sparkle, which leads into a clean deft savory mineral finish. Pleasant, and welcoming, though I also found it slightly simple. But it will drink well, and you may want more.2 stars

Coop. Vitiv. Cellatica Gussago Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage, but a 2002)Pale greenish gold with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up minerality and some citric notes through the sparkle. On the palate it's crisp, and deft, with bright nervous minerality and tart apple fruit that flows into a clean crisp finish kept alive by deft tart apple acidity, while sparkle adds depth. Pleasant albeit direct; it has a wide-eyed honesty about it and will work well as an aperitif or with foods.2 stars

Coop. Vitiv. Cellatica Gussago Franciacorta Satèn Brut (Non-vintage)This is 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Bianco, and is a 2001. It's lively greenish brassy yellow with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar and some greenish notes mingled with woodsmke. Not as fresh as I might have liked. On the palate it's full, soft, and fairly rich, with powerful clean mineral laced apple fruit supported by fairly brisk acidity, while the sparkle is peppery. It's more charged than the brut, but comes across as trying to make a Statement.1 star

Cornaleto Franciacorta Rosé 2002Pale salmon fading in the rim, and fine perlage. The bouquet is pleasant, and offers a definite change of pace, with floral accents and some red berry fruit mingled with gunflint acidity. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with bright slightly pungent white berry fruit that has some tart raspberry accents and is supported by a combination of deft acidity, sparkle, and spice. Pleasant in a direct key, and will drink well as an aperitif with cold cuts or egg-based antipasti, and strong enough for simple white meats or fish.2 stars

Carnaleto Franciacorta Brut 1994This was disgorged in 2004, and is pale brassy gold with white rim and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with rich bread crumbs supported by mineral spice and some bitter overtones. Delicate, and quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, and rich, with pleasantly crisp tart apple fruit supported by deft minerality and peppery notes from the sparkle, which also adds fullness, and flows into a bright clean tart very long finish. It's quite elegant, and proof, as if one needed it, that Franciacorta will age very well. It was one of the highpoints of the tasting for me, and I would enjoy it with friends who also enjoy bracing crisp wines, far from the table.90

Facchetti SilvanaVia XII Dicembre25031 Capriolo (BS)Tel. 030/7461028

Facchetti Silvana Moraschi Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage, but 2001)Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with some gunflint and minerality mingled with sea salt. On palate rich, and pleasant in the softer key one expects of a Satèn, with bright tart green apple fruit supported by deft mineral acidity; the greater softness is from softer sparkle, and it flows into a clean mineral finish. Great depth and I found it growing upon me. Worth seeking out.88-90

Facchetti Silvana Moraschi Donna Elisabetta Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage, but 2002)Pale brassy yellow highlights, and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich and slightly greenish, with tart pineapple fruit and some breadcrumbs mingled with gunflint. On the palate it's fresh, and graceful in a light key, with bright lemony acidity supported by sparkle and citric overtones that flow into a clean tart finish. Refreshing, and leaves the palate quite clean; it will be a nice food wine, and though I ofund it a touch direct I'd likely stock a second bottle.2 stars

Faccoli Lorenzo Via Cava, 725030 Coccaglio (BS)Tel. 030/7722761

Faccioli Lorenzo Franciacorta Dosage Zero 2001Pale papery gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is powerful, with butterscotch and bread crumbs mingling with some slightly chemical smoky notes; it feels dry. On the palate it is, and fresh and quite crisp with moderate acidity supporting minerality, while much of the body comes from the sparkle, and as it fades a savory finish with mineral acidity emerges. It is just as dry as one would expect a dosage 0 to be, but I would have liked a little more force from the minerality of the wine the sparkle ends up carrying a touch more than I would have expected it to in a 2001 vintage wine.1 star

Faccoli Lorenzo Franciacorta Extra Brut (Non-vintage) Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some minerality and slight herbal notes mingled with dry butterscotch. On the palate it's fairly bright, with mineral citric fruit that gains depth from the sparkle and flows into a clean dry finish with citric overtones. Direct, and will work well as an aperitif or with foods.1 star

Ferghettina Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage, but 2003)Pale brassy yellow with slight greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich and surprisingly floral -- white flowers and bitter almonds with an underpinning of minerality. On the palate it's full and rich, and also fairly soft, with pleasant tropical fruit laced with crisp apple and supported by sparkle and some mineral acidity that carries into a clean mineral finish. Quite elegant, and they did maintain the acidity well considering how hot 2003 was. Good as an aperitif or with a meal. Worth seeking out.88-90

Ferghettina Franciacorta Satèn 2002Pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour lemon overlying gunflint and wet breadcrumbs with some haunting greenish accents. Pleasant. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with ample crisp lemony fruit supported by brisk citric acidity and muted sparkle whose softness provides fullness and softness to the wine, which flows into a clean citric finish. Quite pleasant and eminently drinkable, as an aperitif or with fish or white meats, or creamy pasta dishes -- a mushroom risotto, even. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Franca Contea Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage, but an 02)Fairly rich brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with chemical notes and gunflint mingled with some sour breadcrumbs and slight mineral acidity. On the palate it's fairly soft and bitter with moderate acidity supported by sparkle that flows into a clean bitter finish. It's surprisingly soft for an 02; my first thought was an 03.1 star

Franca Contea Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage, but 2002)Brassy yellow with white rim, and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense in a bitter key, with gunflint and herbal notes mingling with some mineral acidity and hints of marzipan. On the palate it's full and again surprisingly soft for an 02, with only moderate acidity coupled with the softness of the sparkle one expects from a Satèn; there is moderate citric fruit, and the finish is warm and savory, with nice minerality, but I'd have liked greater depth.1 star

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut 2002This is 90% Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, with the remainder Pinot Nero. It's pale slightly greenish brassy yellow with fine perlage, and has a fairly delicate bouquet with minerality and some savory spice. On the palate it's fairly full and quite dry, with moderately intense minerality supported by mineral acidity and clean sparkle that fades into a crisp mineral finish. In short, liquid stone, and as such reflects the lack of richness of the 2002 vintage well. It will drink nicely as an aperitif.2 stars

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Rosé Brut 2002This is 70% Chardonnay, and 30% Pinot Nero; it's pale salmon colored, with fine perlage, and has a pungent bouquet with gunflint minerality mingled with moderate acidity and some menthol, overlain by bitter accents and hints of red berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fullness coming from mineral acidity and minerality coupled with sparkle. Dry too, and it's close to being liquid stone with a peppery sparkle. It's quite direct, but will be pleasant as an aperitif with fairly rich foods.1 star

Gatta Franciacorta Brut (N0n-Vintage)Fairly deep brassy yellow with fine perlage and a moderately rich bouquet with floral accents and bitter almonds mingled with gunflint and bitterness. On the palate it's a bit tired, with moderate bitter minerality supported by a combination of sparkle and acidity that flows into a clean acidic finish.1 star

Gatta Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale brassy gold with finr perlage. The bouquet is unusual, with aromas that bring salted -- not buttered -- popcorn to mind. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate citric apple fruit supported by delicate sparkle, and it flows into a warm savory citric finish. The palate's pleasant, but the nose is a little strange.1 star

Gatti Enrico Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage, but is 2003)Pale brassy gold with white rim and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with floral accents and some greenish spice supported by clean minerality and some wet breadcrumbs. On the palate it's clean, and fairly rich, with dry fairly citric fruit supporte by clean bitter overtones that flow into a clean savory finish. The wine displays considerable depth for an 03, and though there is some heat-inspired softness, it's by no means flabby. Enjoy it with antipasti.2 stars

Gatti Enrico Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale brassy greenish gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with butterscotch and breadcrumbs mingling with gunflint acidity and bitter almond accents. Pleasant. On the palate it's equally pleasant, with ample soft minerality -- what one expects of a Satèn -- supported by sparkle, bitter almond overtones and deft spice that flow into a bitter finish. Deft, and will drink nicely with antipasti or during a meal.2 stars

Il Mosnel Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, with pleasing floral notes mingled with white berry fruit and some butterscotch supported by acidity and gunflint bitterness. Pn t it's equally deft and airy, with elegant citric-laced minerality supported by a smooth fairly soft sparkle, and it flows into a clean crisp green apple finish. Quite nice, and will work well as an aperitif or with foods, especially flavorful fish or deftly cooked lighter white meats.88-90

Il Mosnel Franciacorta Satèn 2002Pale greenish brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with almond blossoms and white flowers mingled with some bitter savory notes. On the palate it's ample and soft, with the softness from sparkle, and clean citric fruit supported by some bitterness that flows into a long clean citric finish. This is a 2002 and it does display a degree of leanness typical of the vintage, but it is also graceful and will drink well with foods. In short, a nice expression of a difficult vintage.2 stars

La Montina Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage, but 2002)This is a Chardonnay, 20% of which is barrel fermented. It's pale brassy yellow with fine perlage, and has a fairly rich bouquet with butterscotch and deft citric notes mingled with herbs and white blossoms. On the palate it's full, and deft, with clean crisp slightly bitter green apples supported by bitterness and a smooth fairly soft sparkle that flows into a clean slightly bitter finish> Pleasant, and will drink quite nicely as an aperitif.2 stars

La Montina Franciacorta Rosé Demi Sec (Non-vintage, but 2003)This is 60% Pinot Nero and 40% Chardonnay, and is very pale salmon rose with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweetness mingled with floral accents and some sea salt with underlying marzipan. On the palate it's rich, full, and soft, with ample ripe peach fruit supported by clean delft sparkle and moderate acidity that settles into a clean white fruit finish with some acidity. Despite its sweetness it's much more on its toes than many other 2003 wines, and if you like the Demi Sec style, it's quite pleasant. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Lantieri de Paratico Franciacorta Brut 2001Pale brassy gold with brassy highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, with bitter almonds mingled with gunflint wet breadcrumbs, and intriguing savory notes. On the palate it's dry and full with much of the fullness coming from delicate sparkle, while the fruit is crisp green apple that flows into a clean mineral finish. Quite pleasant in a lacy key that would lead me to prefer it as an aperitif, or far from the table.91

Lanatieri De Paratico Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage, but 2003)Pale brassy greenish yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is softer and richer than that of the declared 2001, and this is attributable to the higher temperatures in 2003; there's some white berry fruit and bread crumbs laced with soft savory overtones. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate minerality supported by peppery sparkle, while the acidity is rather low. Very much the child of a hot vintage, and it consequently lacks definition.1 star

Lanatieri De Paratico Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with white rim and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some sea salt and savory bitterness mingled with mineral overtones. On the palate it's ample and soft, with crisp apple-laced minerality supported by moderate mineral acidity that flows into a distinctly mineral finish. The heat of the vintage (it's mostly 2003) has sapped it of its vitality, making it softer and less exciting than I might have liked.1 star

Le Marchesine Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage; the bouquet is deft, with moderate white fruit supported by savory overtones and wet breadcrumbs, while acidity provides depth. Pleasing. On the palate it's clean, fresh, and crisp, with pleasant yellow berry fruit -- plum and peach -- supported by acidity and the sparkle, which flows into a clean savory finish. Enticing, and though it's fairly direct it is also quite pleasant, and will work well with foods.2 stars

Le Marchesine Franciacorta Satèn 2002Pale brassy yellow with white rim and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with almond blossoms and some gunflint bitterness mingled with vegetal overtones and some acidity; no breadcrumbs. On the palate it's full, and soft -- thanks to the softness of the sparkle -- with elegant sour mineral notes supported by clean acidity that flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant, a nice expression of the Satèn style that will drink well as an aperitif or with foods.2 stars

Le Marchesine Franciacorta Rosè 2002Pale apricot pink with fine perlage. The bouquet is clean, with bright acidity and some savory overtones and vegetal notes; it's nicely balanced in a fairly lean key, without the berry fruit that I associate with rosès in richer vintages. On the palate it's clean, with rich sparkle that adds considerably to the body, overlying considerable citric acidity; it's pleasant in a thin key that's in keeping with the vintage, and will drink well as an aperitif or with creamy meats or fish.2 stars

Lo Sparviere Franciacorta Brut 2001Pale brassy golden green with fine perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with sea salt and some bitter gunflint; it gives an impression of crispness. Impression confirmed on the palate, which is graceful with minerality supported by crisp green apple acidity that flows into a clean savory green apple finish with peppery notes from the sparkle. Quite elegant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif, with flavorful fish, or with delicate white meats.88-90

Lo Sparviere Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage, but 2003)Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory notes mingling with gunflint and hints of marzipan, while there is also underlying softness -- not much acidity. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with the softness coming from both the lesser degree of sparkle that is a characteristic of Satèn, and from relatively low acidity, which is 2003; the fruit is moderately intense crisp apple, which flows into a clean fairly flat finish. It's penalized by the vintage.1 star

Majolini Valentino Majolini Franciacorta Brut 1994Lively brassy gold with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with breadcrumbs and butterscotch mingled with bitter almonds. Pleasant. On the palate it's rich, with delicate fullness from the sparkle, and pleasant minerality mingled with white fruit that flows into a clean finish. Quite graceful, with a lot to say, and will be very nice far from a meal. Or as an aperitif.88-90

Majolini Franciacorta Pas Dosè 2000Pale pepery brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet si deft, with clean minerality and some gunflint supported by mineral acidity and greenish notes. On the palate clean, and deft, with elegant minerality supported by sparkle and acidity, which flow into a clean mineral finish. Quite nice, and will drink well as an aperitif or with foods.2 stars

Majolini Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale brassy gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is clean, and slightly greenish with some spice. Fairly direct. On the palate it's soft, with moderate fruit supported by the sparkle, which contributes fullness, and moderate acidity. It's considerably weaker than the vintage wines, and this may be the vintage of its main component showing its limitations.1 star

Mirabella Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable gunflint mingled with some greenish notes and spice; there's minerality more than fruit. The palate reflects the nose, with considerable minerality and some citric acidity that flow into a clean mineral finish, while the sparkle adds peppery depth. Pleasant in a mineral key, and will work well as an aperitif.2 stars

Mirabella Franciacorta Rosè Brut (Non-vintage)Pale salmon with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly deft, with minerality and some herbal and floral notes, which gain definition from underlying bitterness. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with bright fruit, a mix of white and red plum supported by sparkle that gives fullness, and by clean bright slightly mineral acidity that carries into a clean finish. Pleasant, and will drink well as an aperitif, or with foods.2 stars

Monte Rossa Franciacorta Prima Prima Cuvée Brut (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with citric fruit and clean herbal spice with savory overtones. Quite nice. On the palate it's full, with a bright, tart apple fruit supported by slightly bitter sparkle with fairly intense peppery notes and mineral acidity that flows into a clean briskly savory finish. Quite nice, and will work well either as an aperitif or with foods.2 stars

Monte Rossa Franciacorta Rosè Brut (Non-vintage)Pale salmon pink with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with pungent bitter flowers and some floral accents mingled with sea salt, white berry fruit, and some gunflint. Nice balance, and inviting. On the palate it's full, and softer than I might have expected, with clean bright berry fruit supported by deft almost raspberry acidity that emerges as the sparkle fades, and the finish is long and crisp. A fine aperitif, worth seeking out.90

Monte Rossa Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale brassy gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is clean and pleasant with slightly greenish notes mingled with gunflint and some spice. On the palate it's soft, with moderate white berry fruit, and a bit settled; the fullness comes from sparkle, but there's not much acidity to perk it up. It's considerably weaker than the other two wines, and this is likely due to the vintage that makes it up.1 star

Ricci Curbasto Extra Brut 2002This is a 50-50 Chardonnay-Pinot Nero blend, and is brassy gold with greenish highlights; and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with butterscotch and some bitter almonds mingled with white flowers and some savory overtones. Pleasant. On the palate it's crisp, with ample green apple fruit that has the powdery feel a really crisp green apple can have, and clean deft sparkle that carries into a long clean crisp apple finish. Quite refreshing and will be a fine aperitif. Impressive, especially considering the vintage.90

Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is muted, though some sea salt and moderate mineral acidity emerge with concentration. On the palate it's full and soft with moderate acidity and some fairly bitter overripe white fruit. It doesn't have the depth of the Extra brut, and this is likely a difference related to the vintage; I found it settled.1 star

San CristoforoVia Villanuova, 225030 Erbusco (BS)Fax 030/7768280

San Cristoforo Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage, but 2003)Pale brassy gold with greenish highlights. The bouquet is rich, with powerful bitter butterscotch and spice mingled with hints of marzipan and pineapple -- clearly the product of a hot vintage. On the palate it's full and soft for a brut -- the heat knocked back the acidity -- but harmonious, with fairly rich tropical fruit supported by peppery spice and sparkle. It's a product of the vintage, and will drink well with foods, but I found it a touch unusual, and will be interested to taste the next vintage.1 star.

Tenuta Ambrosini Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale brassy yellow with green highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tart greenish notes mingled with citric acidity and some savory overtones and bread crumbs. On the palate it's medium bodied and fairly rich, with ample fairly soft minerality that flows into a clean finish. It's not as tight as the nose suggests, and I found myself wanting a little more acidity to give it definition. A child of the 2003 vintage, which is its major component.1 star

Tenuta Ambrosini Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)This is a brut, and is mostly 2003; it's rich gold with fine perlage. They also use Pinot in it, which influences the bouquet, making it more savory than many Satèns; there's fairly rich butterscotch laced with sea salt and delicate vegetal notes mingled with spice and some minerality. On the palate it's full, and soft, with bright tropical fruit supported by clean savory overtones that flow into a deft warm mineral finish. It has more direction and backbone than the brut, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with simple fish.2 stars

Tenuta Monte Delma Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale papery gold with brassy highlights, greenish overtones, and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft and intensely mineral, with clean gunflint overtones and pleasing savory notes. Great control. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful minerality mingled with pineapple fruit and sparkle, which confers a peppery tang, and it flows into a clean mineral finish with citric overtones. Quite pleasant, and displays considerable finesse: it will drink nicely as an aperitif, fish and white meats, and with delicately creamy dishes.88-90

Tenuta Monte Delma Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale greenish brassy gold with fine perlage; the bouquet is moderately rich, with breadcrumbs and butterscotch laced with sweetness and savory spice. Soft and inviting. On the palate it's full and soft with ample white berry fruit, a mix of grape and plum, supported by deft citric acidity and some mineral notes that flow into a clean slightly mineral finish. It's direct and approachable, and will drink well with antipasti, fish, or white meats. In short, versatile.2 stars

Uberti Franciacorta Brut 2002This is 70% Chardonnay, with the remainder Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero; there's no wood. It's pale brassy yellow with brassy highlights, and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with fairly rich breadcrumbs laced with strong minerality and gunflint. On the palate it's full and rich, with deft mineral-laced gunflint mingled with bitter citric acidity that flows into a clean mineral finish, while the sparkle provides counterpoint. It's softer than some bruts -- the vintage makes it smaller, I expect -- and quite approachable; it will work nicely as an aperitif or at the table.2 stars

Uberti Franciacorta Extrabrut 2002Deep brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, with wet breadcrumbs, minerality, and gunflint bitterness. Nice balance and quite harmonious. On the palate it's dry with deft minerality supported by mineral acidity and peppery notes from the sparkle that flow into a clean mineral finish. It displays considerable depth in a clean lesser-vintage key, and will drink nicely as an aperitif. If you like dry sparkling wines you will enjoy it.2 stars

Valle Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)Pale brassy gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with deft gunflint and butterscotch mingled with spice and some tart white berry fruit. Delicate and pleasant. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright citric fruit supported by sparkle and powdered granite minerality that flows into a clean tart finish that gains definition from underlying bitterness. Graceful, bringing to mind a shaft of sunlight emerging from the clouds; it will be quite nice as an aperitif or at table.88-90

Valle Franciacorta Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale brassy gold with bright greenish reflections. The bouquet is inviting, with soft butterscotch mingled with some herbal notes and savory overtones. Inviting. On the palate full and soft, with elegant minerality and some tropical fruit supported by pleasant sparkle that adds depth, and leads into a clean rich finish. Quite approachable, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with foods.2 stars

Vezzoli Giuseppe Franciacorta Brut 2002Fairly deep greenish gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sea salt and something that brings pickled peppers and creamy Worcestershire sauce to mind it's a bit unusual but not unpleasant -- mingled with smoke. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense sour minerality supported by sparkle and some greenish notes that flow into a clean savory finish. It's not as rich as it might be, but this is attributable to the vintage.1 star

Vezzoli Giuseppe Franciacorta Satèn 2002Pale greenish gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense with gunflint and some mineral notes mingled with hints of hot iron and some bread crumbs with underlying savory notes and Sichuan preserved vegetable. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderately bright minerality supported by some savory notes that flow into a clean mineral finish. It's fairly direct, and though not tired is a bit settled.1 star

Vezzoli Ugo Franciacorta Brut (Non-vintage)This is 50% Chardonnay, and 25% each Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero; it's pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with clean damp bread crumbs mingled with gunflint, spice, and citric acidity. On the palate it's pleasant, and fairly rich in a savory mineral key, with deft bitterness and tart mineral fruit. Pleasant, and the blend of grapes produces a whole greater than the sum of the parts. It will be nice a tutto pasto, throughout the meal.2 stars

Vezzoli Ugo Franciacorta Millesimato Brut 2001This is the same blend as the non-vintage; it's pale brassy gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is clean and quite delicate, with deft mineral accents supported by tart grapefruit acidity and some gunflint. Takes some thought. On the palate it's deft, and tightly strung, with pleasant minerality supported by mineral acidity -- liquid granite -- that flows into a clean mineral finish. It's quite deft, and if you like tightly concentrated mineral wines you will enjoy it. If you prefer the more approachable softness of a Satèn you will like it less. In short, demanding.2 stars

Vigna Dorata Franciacorta Brut (non-vintage)Pale greenish yellow with faint, fairly large-bubbled perlage. The bouquet is pungent, with a fair amount of gunflint and some bitterness with underlying minerality. On the palate it's moderately full, with the fullness coming from sparkle, with micaceous minerality that carries into a bitter finish. I'd have expected a little more, and found it falling a bit short.1 star

Vigna Dorata Satèn (Non-vintage)Pale brassy gold with fine delicate perlage. The bouquet is soft, and pungent, with gunflint and mineral bitterness. On the palate it's full and soft, with much of the fullness coming from perlage, which settles quickly enough that it brings to mind stepping into an unseen hole. It needs more length from body.1 star

Villa Franciacorta Satèn 2002Poured from a Magnum. Pale brassy gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with gunflint and some spice mingled with slight breadcrumbs; it opens nicely, and though lower key than a great vintage is quite pleasant. On the palate it displays great finesse with full fairly rich tart fruit -- pineapples and grapefruit, flowing into a clean tart finish. It's clearly from a lesser vintage, with less depth than there was in the 01, but quite graceful, and eminently approachable. A fine wine to enjoy with friends or in a romantic occasion built around elegant fish or white meats. When the vintage is difficult the best emerge.91

Villa Franciacorta Brut 2002Poured from a magnum. Pale brassy gold with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with airy gunflint laced with some tropical ripe pineapple. Nice balance, and harmonious. On the palate it's fairly full, and dry, with deft savory overtones that flow into a clean savory finish with deft citric acidity. It's quite nice, and eminently approachable, and will work very well as an aperitif, though I would also be tempted to serve it with succulent grilled fish or creamy, delicate white meats.2 stars

Villa Crespia Fratelli Muratori Franciacorta Numero 0This is a dosage 0; it's pale yellow with fine faint perlage, and has a fairly rich bouquet with breadcrumbs and butterscotch mingled with savory notes and some gunflint. Harmonious. On the palate it's full, gaining from the sparkle, with bright savory minerality that flows into a long granitic savory mineral finish. Liquid stone, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with crustaceans.2 stars

Villa Crespia Fratelli Muratori Franciacorta Cesonato Brut Satèn 2002Pale brassy gold with fine faint perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with nice gunflint and some breadcrumbs. Harmonious. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderate bitter citric fruit supported by sparkle and clean acidity that flow into a fairly direct finish. It will drink nicely with foods.2 stars

Monday, December 11, 2006

I recently attended a conference dedicated to Italian autochthonous varietals -- vines native to the various Italian regions. It turns out Italy has more than 3000 grape varietals, which is more than any other country in the world. Of these, most are very local strains that simply grow in people's vineyards; they go into the local blend and that's that. About a thousand are instead planted and grown intentionally, and of these thousand about 500 have been studied and catalogued. About 50 of these 500 account for the bulk of Italian wine production. The remainder represent a terrific opportunity: while it's true that many are nondescript and wouldn't be missed, it's just as true that some have tremendous potential and are simply awaiting discovery.

For example, Donatella Cinelli Colombini is best known for her Brunello di Montalcino. However, the villa she lives in is outside the Brunello production area, so she has begun to experiment with Foglia Tonda, an old varietal that was discarded by the farmers following the phylloxera outbreak a century ago because it was less productive than Sangiovese and more difficult to grow. It has taken her several years to bring her Foglia Tonda vineyard into production, but the results are most impressive, especially considering the youth of the vines: There's tremendous power and concentration, and as the vines enter into maturity in a few years' time finesse will arrive as well. In a similar light, Sagrantino, an Umbrian grape and wine produced around Montefalco that is now attracting world-wide attention, was completely unknown outside of Umbria until Arnaldo Caprai began to experiment with it about 15 years ago. The same holds true for Teroldego Rotaliano, an obscure red grape from Trentino; Elisabetta Foradori began growing it with care about 15 years ago, and now both she and other producers who have followed her lead are earning awards for their Teroldego Rotaliano.

These are all vines capable of yielding good to excellent wines on their own. But Italy has an equal abundance of what are known as uva complementari, lesser varietals that cannot stand on their own, but contribute to a blend, say by adding color, floral accents, roundness, or some other facet. Their importance is difficult to overestimate, and Chianti provides a good example of why: Tuscany's great red grape is Sangiovese, which is capable of terrific refinement and finesse. However, it's also temperamental, and if the vintage isn't letter-perfect can have aggressive tannins or marked acidity, or be lacking in color, or be thin, or whatever.

Enter the uva complementari, which help fill out the Sangiovese; when Baron Ricasoli developed the original blend in the mid-1800s he used Canaiolo, another red grape, to add grace and tame the unruly side of his Sangiovese, and added a little Malvasia del Chianti, a white grape, if he wanted added zest in a wine to be drunk young (no white grapes in the wines he laid down). Some people are still using Canaiolo, though many Tuscan vintners dropped it in favor of Cabernet or Merlot in the 70s and 80s, in part because the French varietals are more consistent and therefore easier to work with, and in part because the French varietals added an international flavor to the wines that helped them penetrate foreign markets.

However, in recent years there has been a shift back to other autochthonous varietals, for example ciliegiolo and colorino, both of which provide color, or mammolo, which adds hints of violets to the bouquet (mammolo is Tuscan vernacular for violet).

Why would someone abandon the easy-to-use French varietal in favor of a more intractable Italian varietal? Primarily because though the French varietals generally give good results, with rare exceptions (the Cabernet of Bolgheri comes to mind) the wines made from them are generic -- one can find very similar, equally good French varietal-based or containing wines made elsewhere, often at considerably lower prices. The Italian varietals, on the other hand, are usually quite local, and in some cases grow well only in small areas. For example, Nebbiolo grows well around Alba, in a couple of places in Northern Piemonte, and in the Valtellina. So far, all attempts to produce really good Nebbiolo-based wines elsewhere have failed, and this means that the producers in those regions where Nebbiolo does well have something unique to offer.

The international wine trade likes good unique wines, and this gives those who can produce them a means to survive and prosper. With the thousands of Italian varietals still awaiting evaluation, there are certainly many more diamonds hidden in the rough.

A friend recently wrote, asking about Pulin, a red wine made by Riccardo Bruna in Liguria's Riviera di Ponente: The importer said it was a Rossese di Dolceacqua, but he didn't think so -- an online source he found says, "60% granaccia, 20% rossese, 20% barbera, 2/3 aged in steel and 1/3 in older barriques," while the 2006 Gambero Rosso guide says it's a blend of grenache, barbera, syrah, and cinsault. Could I check?

One of the advantages of living in Italy and speaking Italian is that I can easily pick up the phone and call:

Francesca Bruna says Pulin, which is a Colline Savonesi, is a blend of roughly 46% Granaccia, 46% Syrah, and 8% loose bunch (as oppesed to compact bunch) Barbera, which ferments in steel, spends a year in 2-year-old barriques, another year in bottle, and is then released. No Rossese at all, and she stressed that Rossese is used to make a simple quaffing wine, while Pulin is considerably more serious.

In terms of the varietals, she says that Granaccia is what is known as Grenache in France, and has always grown in this part of Liguria, so one can correctly call it autochthonous. The Syrah is instead French, and they decided to include it because it confers a Mediterranean feel to the wine. The Barbera instead provides acidity.

Monday, December 04, 2006

Sicily is Italy's latest enological hotspot, a land that is attracting the attention (and praise) of the wine press, and a tremendous amount of investment on the part of winemakers, especially those from outside the island, who are buying in.

Giovanni Lanzara isn't quite an outsider -- he's Sicilian -- but he is buying in, because he's an engineer by trade, and a few years ago seized the opportunity to purchase a beautiful property in Menfi (the Agrigentino), consisting of a sprawling farm complex that looks like it belongs in the movies, and 35 hectares of vineyards that start out at about 270 meters above sea level, and gently slope towards the sea.

Some of the vineyards are older, while others are new and just beginning to enter into production; the varietals include both autochthonous and international grapes, including Catarratto, Grillo and Nero D'Avola in the former camp and Chardonnay and Merlot in the latter.

I tasted them in the course of a lunch in Florence's Ristorante Oliviero that was organized by Marina Thompson's studio, and did enjoy them, though they also made me think.

First, the white wines:

Ipsas is an IGT Sicilia made from Catarratto, an autochthonous varietal; the 2005 vintage was pale gold with a fairly rich bouquet that had tropical fruit and sage mingled with minerality, and on the palate was deft, with clean minerality supported by butterscotch that flows into fairly long mineral notes. Nice balance, and I scored it 2 stars.

Elìtre is an IGT Sicilia made from Grillo, another autochthonous varietal; the 2005 vintage is pale brassy gold and has a fairly rich bouquet with eucalyptus and herbal notes laced with petroleum and some bread crumbs. Interesting, and the palate reflects the nose, with herbal notes and minerality supported by warm citric acidity that carries into a fairly long finish. Considerable character and depth, and I scored it just shy of 3 stars.

Sèrico is an IGT Sicilia made from Chardonnay; the 2004 vintage is pale brassy gold and has a powerful bouquet with smoky tropical fruit and quite a bit of butterscotch laced with bitter minerality. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with clean minerality and butterscotch laced bitterness flowing into a clean crisp finish; I scored it a low two stars.

And then the reds:

Merlot IGT Sicilia 2004: It's deep pigeon blood ruby and has a powerful bouquet with freshly squeezed black currants mingled with violets and berry fruit jam, and some slightly herbal raspberry acidity. Fresh; on the palate it's full, rich, and quite smooth, with powerful black currant fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some bitter herbal notes and carry into a fairly long fruit laced finish. Pleasant in a decidedly international key, and I scored it 2 stars.

Nero D'Avola IGT Sicilia 2004: It's deep pigeon blood ruby and has a rich nose with red berry fruit supported by some mineral-laced sage and balsamic overtones. On the palate it's full, smooth, and quite soft, with full rich berry fruit supported by considerable bitterness that carries into a clean berry fruit finish. I found it a touch dry, and also found a lack of complexity that I attribute to youth of the vineyard -- it's 8 years old -- but scored it a solid 2 stars in any case.

These are the wines, and the thoughts?

I found the Grillo to be the most interesting of the whites, followed by the Cataratto, both of which display varietal characteristics and reflect Sicily. The Chardonnay, which, Mr. Lanzara told us, is the white they are proudest of, was good, indeed quite good. However, it was also anonymous -- Another well made, heavily oaked hot-climate chardonnay, and to be frank there are a great many of those out there on the world stage. I didn't pick up on anything that would lead me to think Sicily if the label were covered, and so I found myself mentally shrugging my shoulders and reaching for the Grillo.

The reds? Well, the Merlot was quite good in a completely international key, and resembles some other Sicilian Merlots I've had: up front, turgidly opulent, and rich, what an American friend used to call a "sex-pot wine." In short, it’s a head-turning package, but what you see is what you get. In its defense the vines are only 8 years old, but it's behaving as one would expect a northern varietal to when transplanted to a vastly hotter clime: by letting go.

The Nero D'Avola displays greater depth and offers more to think about, though it's more obviously from immature vineyards than the Merlot; at present the Merlot may be the better of the two, but I expect that the Nero D'Avola will eventually surpass it.

My one objection to the Nero D'Avola was the use of small wood, which added oaky nuances I'm not sure I feel are necessary; the grape, like many Italian reds, has sufficient tannin, structure and aroma to do quite well without the contribution of the barrique, which ends up (at least for me) distracting rather than enhancing. I'd have liked large wood, which has less of an impact.

And this brings us to the reflection. Mr. Lanzara is Sicilian, but isn't a winemaker -- rather, he's an engineer who loves his homeland and has decided to invest in it. So he has followed the same path investors in other parts of Italy, especially Tuscany, have followed when they buy a winery, and hired a top-notch enologist who has done a superb job of making wines by the book; the result is, especially for the Chardonnay and the Merlot, faultless wines that are frankly anonymous.

The estate certainly has the potential, which will only increase as the vineyards mature, and there is also an obvious desire to make superb wines. I would simply like to see the direction change some, away from the international style, because we have lots of Merlot, and even more Chardonnay to choose from, and there's also an abundance of deftly oaked red wine out there too.

While it may be more difficult to sell well made traditionally made Sicilian wine at the outset -- there is a "what's this? reaction on the part of consumers new to it -- well-made traditional Sicilian wines do enjoy a devoted following that will not be drawn astray by the introduction of yet another international wine from a new wine-producing region.

Staying in the pack is more predictable, and may feel safer, but one is still a member of the pack.

Attn: Wine Retailers

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IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.ONE STAR goes to wines that are good.TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.