Kayaking the Na Pali Coast is not a leisurely paddle through some pretty scenery. It is a full on, strenuous 17 mile ocean kayaking experience that happens to have some of the most breath taking views in the world. Deemed by National Geographic as the second best adventure in the country, it doesn’t disappoint. We were fortunate enough to set off in early July, when the weather was calm (read: no wind), the seas were calm (read: no helpfully strong current) and the wildlife active (read: can you ever get tired of seeing sea turtles?). But it wasn’t until we set off from Ha’ena Beach Park and kayaked a mile around to the “last take out point” at Ke’e Beach that I had a real idea of what we were getting into. Like any activity, the first few miles are exciting, exhilarating, and most often than not a period of “breaking in”. Not exactly an avid ocean kayaker (not too many oceans here in Charlotte), and since I haven’t been regular in the whitewater boat for several years my kayaking skills were a bit rusty. Not to mention we were placed in a tandem kayak (read: divorce boat). With so many adventure races behind us that required tandem paddling, you’d think we would have learned to work together in the boat better. Alas, we have not and the tandem boat is still a cause for discord. Our boats always come with too many captains and not enough sailors. So the first mile was a bit of an adjustment, but we were flying high on the fact we had hiked in and out from Kalalalu beach in a day and felt invincible. With 3,000 foot cliffs looming ahead and the promise of some amazing sea caves, unspoiled beaches and wildlife views, I ignored the questioning feeling in my head and set my paddle to moving us down the coastline.

The first seven miles along the Na Pali Coast to Kalalau beach were beautiful. The full Na Pali Coast is in view and you feel like you are on a secret path between the soaring cliffs and the immense Pacific Ocean. The water is a perfect cerulean color, like something straight out of a crayon box, and perfectly clear. You can see the bottom of the ocean 40, 50 in some places 60 feet below. It was incredible to catch a glimpse of an endangered green sea turtle or the many fish swimming below. Our group of 7 got a great kick out of seeing the scenery we had hiked two days before, this time from a different perspective. The trail, which had looked so high while walking, seemed impossibly steep in some areas from a few thousand feet below. When we arrived to Kalalau beach we were all thrilled to see the white sand beach again and spent some time loosening our muscles by swimming off shore.

The stretch to Kalalau Beach was boring in comparison to what happened after we left and paddled further up the Na Pali Coast. Dipping in and out of pitch black sea caves, open-ceiling grottoes, under waterfalls that drop into the ocean, the coast’s twists and turns, we felt as though we had discovered a place of magic. It is hard not to be emotionally swept away by the impressive rock formations bathed in warm sunlight with turquoise water crashing on them as the waves come in. This area of the coast is sacred to the ancient Hawaiians who used the coastline as a training ground. There are some beaches on which it is forbidden to land a boat out of respect for the ancient traditions. Our guides filled us in on the human and natural history of this breathtaking area. And then the endangered green sea turtles began to appear. A few had graced us with their presence earlier in the trip, but at this point we started to see so many it was virtually unbelievable. It seemed that dozens of green sea turtles swam under and around us for the next few miles, with our fellow kayakers shouting “turtle” every few minutes.

As we passed a green sea turtle nest on shore we came to Milolii Beach, at the tip of the Na Pali Coast. I wish we had planned ahead to spend the night there. Not a lush paradise, the beach felt like a shipwreck settlement with a few trees, a faucet for running water and a small shelter for picnic tables. But the peaceful ease of the place, and the sense of being completely at the end of the earth looking out at the vast ocean – that is what drew me to want to stay. Camping is allowed on the beach by permit of the Hawaii State Park system for up to three days. One of our kayak compatriots spent a night there with his children years ago and said the monk seals come at night to rest and relax, making it a wild wildlife experience. No monks seals graced us with their presence while we were there, but all the better.

Past Milolii the geography changes with the wind. Less foliage and smaller cliffs make it less interesting, but no less beautiful. As Catamarans began to pass further out at sea, and boat traffic increased it was clear that civilization was rapidly approaching. Within site of our take out point at Polihale State Park we suddenly spotted dolphins far out to sea. Paddling furiously (read: this is a subjective term, remember we are still on divorce boat) we caught the Hawaiian Spinner Dolphins playing in the water. Swimming directly under us and around us, the pod of dolphins was not shy and spent several minutes entertaining us. Doing their namesake spinning jumps, our whole group realized how lucky we were when our guide, a native to the island, got excited. We never got a truly accurate count, but perhaps we saw two dozen dolphins in our area.

Finally we reached Kauai’s Polihale State Park. Our arms and torsos were tired, our legs were cramped, but we were in great spirits. Attempting to body surf our way onto shore, we looked something like beached whales to the families enjoying an afternoon picnic on the beach. As the water glimmered in the late afternoon sun we packed up our gear and headed back around the island (in a van!) to complete the full circumnavigation of Kauai.

If you go

We booked our Na Pali Coast Kayak Tour through Kayak Kauai. Our guides were highly skilled, professional and fun. Our equipment was in good condition and we would highly recommend using this tour operator. Both of our guides were locals and the organization also helps sponsor a Na Pali Coast annual clean up. This was a strenuous ocean paddle and not for children or people in poor physical condition. We spent nearly 8 hours on the water – bringing adequate sun screen and shade is essential.

Yup. Six years since we’ve been in whitewater kayaks. Let me let that sink in again – six years! The last time we rolled one of these boats was in South Africa, after an interesting day on the river with a local guy who had some extra gear. Anyway, here we are six years, three kids and two states later and once again ready to get back in the saddle…or cockpit?

With our very adventurous cousins (one a former raft guide) getting married in Western North Carolina, it was no surprise that the wedding weekend festivities included whitewater. Being the gentleman that he is Danny volunteered to kayak the river with the groom so he wouldn’t be out there alone. With three kiddos who need at least one parent, I decided to be the responsible one and raft with the larger group instead of kayak. [Note: By responsible I mean, I was totally chicken $H*% about being able to roll still, so I made a graceful exit as I could from the sport.]

So there we were. Me barely listening to the “safety talk” the raft guides gave us and Danny somewhat nervous in the river with the groom attempting a few practice rolls in a whitewater boat for the first time in six years. As he puts it, the first “rapid” he clutched his paddle with more than a little trepidation. Making it through without a single bobble he gained confidence and by the time we hit some more playful water he seemed totally back in the saddle, even dare I say a little adventurous for his first time back in a kayak.

And so rapid after rapid they tackled in their kayaks. At the bottom of each Danny remained upright and with a smile. He and the groom not only seemed to be enjoying themselves, but also playing in the water a bit. Maybe whitewater kayaking is a bit like riding a bike… you never forget your skills.

The first five miles under their belts, Danny and the groom continued downriver as I went to the take out with the other rafters. Admittedly I was a little sad to see them go on, the adventurous part of my spirit still remains, but I was content at leaving well enough alone.

Danny and the groom continued another few miles down the river, aiming to take out right in the town we were staying. And wouldn’t you know it, Danny had to practice his roll on the very last rapid. As they say, a good roll is any roll where you find yourself upright and breathing air… even if you are out of the boat at the time!

In full disclosure, Danny has mentioned several times since the trip that he is not as young as he used to be…. 🙂

Kayaking Mexico may not be the first way you think of exploring the country, but perhaps it should be. Mexico’s coastlines and jungle regions are criss-crossed with hundreds of rivers, streams and waterways just begging for you to get out and explore. Exploring by kayak or small boat will not only give you a new perspective on the land, but will also give you access to places most tourists won’t see.

We kayaked the Rio Micos in Mexico’s Huasteca region outside of San Luis Potosi with some friends who had never kayaked before. A series of small waterfalls, with deep pools beneath them, we felt like National Geographic explorers floating down the river. With the beautiful turquoise water and tropical birds, I felt a bit like telling Danny, “We’re not in Kansas anymore”. We “explored” until we came upon the local popular swimming hole at the end of the run. Suddenly we felt more like locals as we relaxed among local families and splashed around with the kids.

IF YOU WANT TO KAYAK MEXICO:

Fortunately Mexico is accessible, even if you only have a few days. Kayaking in Mexico is becoming a popular excursion from all inclusive resorts, cruises and budget hotels alike. Check out the equipment before you go, and don’t forget a waterproof case for your camera. Whitewater kayaking is limited at present in Mexico, but it is growing! Sea kayaking marine mammal safari’s from Mexico’s Baja Peninsula (Cabo San Lucas or La Paz) or Yucatan Peninsula (Cancun or Tulum) are also popular and worthwhile if you’re looking for something a little less heart pounding than whitewater kayaking. Mexico is a breathtaking country, so be sure to go inland if you have the opportunity and explore the ruins, jungles and diverse cultures of Mexico.

We chose to do our Chilean whitewater kayaking with Kayak Pucon for a few reasons, but mostly because it was owned and operated by locals. We actually didn’t know it existed originally and walked into another whitewater shop in Pucon only to be turned off by the rather cold, business-like attitude of the proprietor. Had we not literally stumbled onto Kayak Pucon, we would have skipped kayaking in Pucon all together.

For starters their gear was some of the best we’ve rented in our travels, (we’ve had awful) complete with everything we could want for cold water paddling with the exception of gloves…but we didn’t want those anyhow. We had our choice of boats and aside from our guide we were the only ones on the river. Our guide, the owner, spoke his native Spanish as well as fluent English. We not only chose which river we wanted to run, but also which section and how much time for warm-up we wanted. In short, it was our own, privately tailored trip all for less money than that original gringo wanted to charge us. We had a great time on the river, no incidents to report despite the unusually high water, and hope to kayak with them again someday.

I do really want to stress the quality of the equipment. This was the first time we were in cold water and with were provided with farmer john neoprene wet-suits as well as dry suits. Several times on this trip we’ve kayaked in cold water with none of this made available to us.