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the legs to the sides and back, and then mark the legs for the subtop, the middle shelf and the lower shelf. A square and a razor knife ensure accuracy. Notch the legs, not the shelves. The subtop, middle shelf and lower shelf are captured in the notches in the legs as well as in the dadoes in the plywood sides and back. pendicular to the one tapered side, and using the jig as a guide for your biscuit jointer, cut the slots in the tapered leg side. For the two back legs, taper a leg side perpendicular to the side you tapered first, and then cut the second row of biscuits, making sure to clamp the grooved jig to an untapered side. After all the biscuit slots are cut-two perpendicular rows in the back legs and a single row in the front legs-taper the remaining two sides of the legs. It's time to turn the tapered squares into tapered octagons. Remember those octagons you meticulously laid out on the top and bottom of each leg billet? Your accurate layout will pay off. Use a straightedge and sharp pencil to scribe lines along the length of each square-tapered billet, connecting the corners of each endgrain octagon (see the photo at right on the facing page). Once all the lines are drawn, remove the four corners of the square-tapered legs. I use a jointer with the fence set at 450 and then dress the legs with a plane. Now the legs are finished, biscuit slots already cut. Dry-fit the case, and mark for the top, shelf and bottom After the legs are completed, the rest is straightforward. Cut the sides and back plywood pieces along the lines you scribed with the partially tapered legs, and cut biscuits so they line up with the slots you've already cut into the legs. Cut a dado into the back and sides J LY/AUGUST 19 98 43