Cable 3Red is supply Live to Junction boxBlack is supply Neutral to Junction boxGreen/Yellow is supply earth to Junction box

The T4160 Thermostat is almost an antique and should really be replaced at the same time as the boiler. The T4160 requires three wires: Live, Switch Live and Neutral. Modern thermostats do not need a neutral as they use an electronic temperature sensor, not a mechanical one. So the Blue wire in cable 2 would be free (assuming it connects to Room stat 2).

It may be possible to free up the room stat, Yellow, Red, Blue if a wireless stat was used.

That's what I thought (see my post before yours). The problem is - how do we use this wire?

The room thermostat is probably in the hall with the cable back to the wiring centre buried in the wall. Running a new cable from wiring centre to the boiler seems a no-no. Would it be possible to extend the cable from room stat location to the boiler?

The ST699 and T4061 could be replaced by a Honeywell Sundial RF² Pack 2 kit (ST9420C wireless enabled programmer and DT92E wireless thermostat) with only wiring changes at the programmer location due to a different back plate.

The current junction box will need replacing with a proper 10 pair wiring centre as a ninth connector will be needed for the pump overrun.

Apologies for the delay on responding, guys. I've been in Chesterfield all day at a beer festival so please expect even less sense from me than is usually the case. I chased British Gas today and their suggestion echoes yours, thescruff - viz - relocate the boiler controls to the airing cupboard and make them wireless.

I'll post early tomorrow with (hopefully) a fuller and more coherent response. Thanks.

"There is a cable, visible in the pic of the boiler, from the left of the programmer and disappearing under the boiler."

David. I've had a look and I'm almost certain this white cable has three wires. One is sort-of a browny colour, one is blue and one is striped green and yellow.

We're happy to bear any inconvenience associated with relocating the programmer to the airing cupboard if it means that we can have our boiler of choice - viz - Worcester Bosch Greenstar Ri24 Regular Boiler.

My next door neighbour whose house was built at the same time as mine by the same builder had an identical boiler to mine which was replaced by British Gas last year for a Worcester Bosh Greenstar Ri30. He tells me he did not require any "inconvenient" work such as taking up floor boards and carpet and knocking holes in the wall by reason of the need to expand his existing wiring situation. I have asked British Gas again today (or rather there rep who is trying to sell me a boiler) to find out precisely how they got round the wiring issues without too much trouble when they replaced the Potterton Netaheat 16/22 with the Worcester.

Here's a picture showing a diagram which is a bird's eye view of the current set-up as regards the relative positions of the airing cupboard junction box, wall thermostat and boiler/boiler programmer. The pink is upstairs and the yellow downstairs. As you can see, curiously, there is a 3-pin plug socket on the upstairs landing which is "in line" with the airing cupboard junction box and a wall light switch "in line" with the (downstairs) boiler/boiler programmer. I don't know if this is useful-

I note:

1. We could free up a wire by installing a modern wall thermostat but we would still have an issue with relocating the wire in such as way as to be of use.

2. British Gas tell us that they can relocate the programmer to the airing cupboard with something called "hive."

British Gas tell us that they can relocate the programmer to the airing cupboard with something called "hive."

The Hive is a BG "intelligent" programmable thermostat, which can be controlled by an App on your smart phone/tablet (assuming you have one) or PC. Read all about it. It's up to you to decide if it its useful.

Using a Hive is not the only way of doing it.

I'm sorry, but I can't understand your diagram showing the relative locations of the components.

Have you considered using an independent Gas Safe Registered engineer? They will give you a wider choice of boilers and, more importantly, be reasonably priced.

British Gas won't get the sale unless they are competitive. I also have an independent quoting. Thanks for the information relating to the wireless programmer. I note that I don't need the Hive.

I'm sorry the diagram is unclear. It's a bird's eye view showing the locations of the boiler/boiler controls, the wall stat and the main junction box in the airing cupboard. The first two are in yellow (downstairs) and the third is in pink (upstairs.) Looking at the diagram, the wiring probably goes under the floorboards from the airing cupboard in a northerly direction, as it were, until it reaches the wall, then it travels down inside the wall cavity to the boiler.

I don't think we can divert any wiring from the wall stat without knocking the house about, which I am reluctant to do.

I think the relocation of a wireless version of the programmer could be the best option.

I await a communication from British Gas informing me of the manner by which they were able to successfully install a Worcester regular boiler in the house next door last year without the need for "intrusive" extra wiring.

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