Ageing, wrinkles and crow's feet are an unavoidable fact of life, but for most ethnic people this is something they will only face much later in life.

The reason why ethnic skin ages slower is largely because the extra pigment in the skin which protects the dermis (outer layer of the skin) much better than those with less pigment, such as Caucasian and pale skin.

It might sound like dark skin is invincible against ageing, sun and pollution, but it shouldn't mean we become slack with our skincare routine as the effects can show much more later in life.

ADVERTISEMENT - CONTINUE READING BELOW

How ethnic skin ages

All skin types are fundamentally the same below the epidermis. However, ethnic skin ages differently to Caucasian skin due to the composition of the upper layers.

'The main difference between dark and pale skin is its thickness,' explains Dr Sach Mohan, a Harley Street-based cosmetic physician. 'Because Caucasian skin is thinner, the collagen breaks down much earlier, which in turn causes it to become more wrinkly and crepey.'

This can backfire as it means ethnic skin is more susceptible to spots and acne. 'Ethnic skin has more sweat glands and the sebaceous glands (oil producing glands) produce more sebum' adds Sujata.

'Maintenance of the skin's pH is essential to for the skin's oil-moisture balance.'

Ethnic skin might age better, but this doesn't mean it's spared. 'People with darker or ethnic skin may still suffer from sagging skin with age, as the loss of elastin causes it to droop,' explains Dr Mohan.

When to start anti-ageing treatment

Deciding when to start introducing anti-ageing products to your skincare regime can be confusing.

Starting too early might cause your skin to react badly, but leaving it too late will make it harder to correct the signs of ageing.

'It all depends on whether you want to preserve and protect your skin or correct it,' explains Dr Mohan.

'There's no minimum age to start protecting your skin – in fact you should do it as soon as possible!

ADVERTISEMENT - CONTINUE READING BELOW

'Women in their twenties don't have to worry as much about ageing, but protecting the skin against harmful UV rays from the sun is essential as this accelerates the developing of wrinkles or worse, skin cancer.

Sujata also recommends adopting a good skincare regimen early on. 'Any products that you use should normalise the skin, not just address your underlying problems,' she explains.

'If you suffer from oily skin and continually use a product that dries it out, your skin will react by producing more oil to counteract the dryness.

'The best solution is to use products that have intelligent formulations to bring your skin back to its base level.'

As women go into their thirties Dr Mohan suggests looking at more effective anti-ageing treatments as this is when your skin starts to show signs of ageing and loses elasticity.

'The ageing process starts at thirty and to reverse and prevent it you should invest in products that contain retinol and stem cell growth factors,' he explains.

Once you reach your forties, anti-ageing is more about corrective rather than preventative measures.

'At this age the collagen in your skin will begin to loosen more and at a deeper level,' says Dr Mohan.

'This, along with hormonal changes means that topical ingredients will not be effective enough and you'll need to start looking at more aggressive methods.'

What to use

Despite what billboards and television adverts tell us, there is no magical cream or serum that can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

This is because ageing happens below the surface of the skin, in the epidermis.

Most anti-ageing products cannot penetrate through the dermis (the first layer of the skin) to help boost collagen and elastin.

However, there is an exception to the rule – retinol. 'Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, which is naturally found in skin,' explains Dr Mohan. 'When applied it helps repair damage caused by ageing as it targets the skin cells' DNA.'

When used correctly, retinol can help make skin thicker and plumper. This wonder ingredient can also help fix an array of skin problems including hyperpigmentation, spots and large pores.

But Dr Mohan warns that it can have side effects if not used properly. 'Retinol is easily available in products, but can be quite aggressive to the skin so only use it if your skin is really suffering.'

He suggests easing yourself into it by using a small amount every few nights before slowly building up how often you use it. Once your skin has built up a tolerance you can use it as often as every night.

Sunscreen is also your biggest ally against ageing and should be worn daily, even when the sun's not out.

Caucasian skin, which is usually prone to dryness, is more likely to show signs of ageing, so it's important to ensure the skin is always hydrated.

'Key ingredients to look for that provide moisture and maintain the skin's oil-moisture balance include hyaluronic acid, vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and natural botanicals, such as liquorice and rosemary,' says Sujata.

'When it comes to skin treatments you should exercise caution and avoid anything that will cause trauma to the skin, in particular chemical peels and microdermabrasion, as these can cause post inflammatory pigmentation (PIH)' she adds.

'Caucasian skin has a tendency to suffer from dryness which can be very ageing, so it's also important to boost circulation by regularly exfoliating the skin.'

Want to know more about ethnic beauty?

Ethnic skincare: Just like different skin types, different ethnicities also come with their own set of skincare problems.

Ethnic suncare: One of the biggest skincare myths is that people with darker skin do not need much or any protection from the sun.

The materials in this web site are in no way intended to replace the professional medical care, advice, diagnosis or treatment of a doctor. The web site does not have answers to all problems. Answers to specific problems may not apply to everyone. If you notice medical symptoms or feel ill, you should consult your doctor - for further information see our Terms and conditions.