While the fragrance market is rather conservative, brands are currently innovating in terms of concentrations.

Eau de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, extrait: it has long been considered that fragrances can be classified in a limited number of concentrations. In recent years, intermediate concentrations have appeared: eau de toilette intense, eau de parfum légère, eau fraîche de parfum… Especially when a product has not met the expected success in its initial concentration.

However, the opposite is also true: Lancôme has for example declined its success La vie est belle in many concentrations. Each time, it is not a redosing of the fragrance but a redesigned formula (more floral, more ambery, more or less sparkling).

Brands become expert in inventing new concentrations. Some are almost registered trademarks as “cologne absolue” for Atelier Cologne. Some concentrations end up being reused by other brands, creating a trend.

In 2017, Roger & Gallet unveils a new collection in “extrait de cologne”. Niche brand Oriza L. Legrand launches 3 creations in “extrait concentré d’eau de cologne”. These two close trends make it possible to claim both freshness and long lasting.

If all these new concentrations are not academic, they can renew the discourse. They also make price comparisons difficult, from one brand to another or within the same brand. Concentrations that are deemed lighter are not always sold cheaper.