Few things are more annoying than the constant slow drip of a leaking oil pan--except for maybe a damaged engine thanks to an unexpected drop in oil pressure. Improper installation of either your oil pump or wet sump oil pan can cause either of these problems.

At Circle Track, we've suffered through our fair share of these frustrations. Everything from the simple stuff like that mysterious puddle of oil that appears on the shop floor (the source is impossible to trace), all the way to the spray of oil coming from the failed rear main oil seal that hit the headers and created an impenetrable fog of smoke filling a dyno cell. Hey, it's a mistake the first time it happens; it only becomes a problem when it happens the second time.

To help you avoid these kinds of gaffes, we gathered a few tips while rebuilding our Chevy dyno mule for an upcoming test. This is not only applicable on a new engine build, but any time you have to remove the oil pan. You may have to replace the pan if your motor is going into a different chassis, or if it gets damaged in a race. Or you may need to temporarily remove the pan if you suspect a rod bearing problem and want to inspect it without tearing the engine completely down.

2/20<STRONG>1</STRONG> Many stock oil pump driveshafts use a plastic collar to make sure the shaft stays engaged with the oil pump. This is a weak link. If you are using a shaft like this, replace it with a quality steel driveshaft that has a metal collar like the one you see here from ARP.

Regardless, these tips can help you ensure that the oil pump is working as efficiently as possible so that your expensive race engine is receiving a constant flow of oil at a sufficient pressure--and avoid that annoying puddle of oil on the shop floor.