Capital of Dalmatia, City of Emperor Diocletian – welcome to Split

It was formerly known as the Gateway to the Islands and a mere transit destination for the majority of tourists. Today, Split is now one of the hottest destinations on the Adriatic.

Its attractiveness to foreigners dates back several centuries, however, and UNESCO World Heritage Site Diocletian’s Palace has reinvented itself from the Roman Emperor’s retirement home to one of the coolest places to eat, drink and explore culture in Croatia.

Within its magical walls, there is a mosque, a synagogue and a basement which is known all over the world thanks to its hosting of HBO’s Game of Thrones. But it is in the alleys and squares that the palace comes alive. There is seemingly a new bar, cafe or restaurant opening every week. There is a lot to discover, and it is a very exciting time in the city’s history.

But there is much, much more to the city than just the Palace. Walk along the stylish Riva, having enjoyed your two-hour people-watching coffee first, and continue along the new West Coast Riva and ACI marina, followed by a trip to Marjan Hill, the green lungs of the Dalmatian capital.

There are museums and art galleries aplenty, including the famous Mestrovic Gallery, beaches to explore, increasingly attractive shopping, and some truly magnificent day trips. Those same islands are out there, but with an increased tourism offer, and the growing prowess of Inland Dalmatia – a fast emerging cultural and adventure playground – is worthy of exploring.

How to get to Split

The city is connected as never before. There are more than 100 destinations flying to the Dalmatian capital in season, and over 3 million passengers used the airport in 2018. Expect that number to grow in 2019, especially after the scheduled opening of the new airport terminal in July. If you’re looking to come by plane and then get into town from the airport – here is what you need to know.

5 things not to miss in Split

The first thing not to miss is something you really cannot miss – UNESCO World Heritage Site, Diocletian’s Palace. The heart of the old town and tourist life, the palace is the number one attraction and symbol of the city.

Picigin. Did you know that the Dalmatian capital has its very own sporting world championship? Picigin is a rather unusual water sport played in the shallow bay of Bacvice, where grown men in Speedos fling themselves through the air to keep a tiny ball from getting wet. You are not a Splicanin until you have played. Double points if you do so on the traditional New Year’s Day game.

Croatian wine is fantastic. There are more than 130 indigenous varieties, including the original Zinfandel, which hails from the other side of Split Airport. Wine tours have some on a long way in recent years, especially since the opening of the first wine bar in the city. Lots more have copied Paradox Wine and Cheese bar since 2012, but none are better – make that your first port of call on your wine journey. And to brush up on the wines of the region, you’ll want to read this.

Where would the world be without Game of Thrones? Kings Landing may be the number one destination for fans of the HBO hit series, down in Dubrovnik, but Split is a close second. Game of Thrones toursare among the most popular activities in the city these days. In addition to the location in Diocletian’s Palace, there are several others which can be included in an expanded tour – Klis Fortress, Zrnovnica, and Kastela.

Split beaches

Not only is Split the most beautiful city with stunning people and a ton of things to see and do, but Split is also blessed with some fantastic beaches, several of which are within walking distance of the centre.

Where to stay in Split

Like many things in recent years, the accommodation scene has totally changed in Split in the last 15 years. It was back in 2004 when the first official hostel opened. Today there are more than 110.

There is a desperate need for more hotels, espcially in the luxury sector. That need is being slowly met however, and many hotels are in the planning.

The private accommodation sector continues to provide the backbone of tourist accommodation. The tourism boom has encouraged more people to take out loans and convert existing homes into tourist accommodation. As a result, places such as Diocletian’s Palace are being slowly transformed from a living city into a tourist ghetto. The change has obvious pros and cons.

My advice is to book early wherever possible, especially in the week around the Ultra Europe Festival in July. Prices go crazy at this time.

Getting around Split

The old town and riva is pedestrianised, and therefore getting around on foot is the best option. Distances are not far, and it helps that the ferry, bus and train terminals are all close by and next to each other (for now, at least, as there are plans to move).

Taxis are expensive, but Uber (and UberBOAT in the summer) is firmly established. If you are driving, you will learn the frustrations of life much quicker, for parking in the Dalmatian capital is not for those in a hurry. Here is the 2019 TCN city parking guide to give you the best possible help.

There is a very well-developed bus network in Split. It can be quite a challenge to navigate as a foreigner, but locals know each route by heart. So don’t be afraid to ask. Here is a little help – an intro guide from TCN on using the bus in Split, as well as some of the most popular routes.

Things to do in Split

Where to start?

This is a city of culture – learn more about its museums and its art galleries. Walking tours of the palace, tours of the Hajduk stadium (hey, this is the team which beat Manchester United 6-0!), walking tours of the rock churches on Marjan. This is a city of culture!

And a city of food, and of wine. Cooking classes, wine tours, learning how to buy and prepare fish from the famous Split fish market.

Island hopping – there are SO many options, from the public ferry to the helicopter tour. Which budget is yours?

And for an adventure playground, is there a city quite like it in Europe? Sailing, kayaking, cycling, hiking, climbing and so much more – the only adrenaline address you need is AndAdventure.

Day trips from Split

There are SO many options for day trips from the city. Island hopping is a very popular choice, and with regular ferries to Solta and Brac which take just an hour, a day trip to the islands on a budget is more than feasible.

Most, however, opt to go just that little bit further. Hvar, Vis and the Blue Cave on Bisevo remain the most popular options, and every tour agency will have a planned excursion.

There are many nearby options on the mainland as well. The UNESCO town of Trogir is just the other side of the airport, while the magnificent Krka National Park is an hour away by bus. Many make is a national park double by taking in Plitvice Lakes as well.

Split nightlife

The nightlife in the city has improved a lot in recent years. The tourism boom has led to a marked increase in diversity, with more niche tastes being catered to. New nighclubs have opened, and the winebar scene has exploded from nothing.

The Ultra Europe Festival, of course, has put Split firmly on the map in the music festival scene and is just one of several major music events which take place each year.

Split’s bar scene has something for everyone – from late-night clubs to craft cocktail bars and the quintessential Croatian dive bar you won’t be able to escape.

Festivals in Split

The festival scene has really taken off in recent years, and the city has a very vibrant cultural feel. The most famous event is Ultra Europe, but Days of Diocletian, The Feast of Sv. Duje, Advent in Split, and the long Split Cultural Summer all more than play their part.

Meet the neighbourhoods

With such a gorgeous city, where is the best neighbourhood to base yourself for your stay? A few years ago, leading local tour guide, Ivica Profaca, wrote a very detailed overview of the neighbourhoods of the city for TCN.

Meet Marjan – green lungs of Split

A short walk from the centre brings you to Marjan Hill, which is known locally as the ‘green lungs’ of Split. Idyllic nature close to the centre of a major European city. And not just that, but a wealth of heritage as well.