The Adventures of Captain Ray Penson

Prince of Wales Island

Last night was horrid. The island where I anchored seemed to have its own evil micro climate going on. The wind came in shrieking squalls, the rain was incessant and the sea came in the bay from around the corner. We dragged anchor in the early hours – its always the early hours – but it caught again.

That’s the thing about anchorages, they may look good on the chart but it’s the surrounding topography that creates shelter, wind funnels and wave reflectors. You just don’t know until you have tried it, or you get some local knowledge. I wont be going back to warren Cove.

At first light we departed, glad to be free of the place. I waited for first light as there are so many logs about in Sumner Strait. The new logs are easy to spot, it’s the old gnarly rascals that have been around for years, they barely show above the surface but are very solid.

We had wind for a change, quite squally at first and with rain all day. But it came from a direction we could use. Truce got in the groove, put her shoulder down and surged through the waves. The speed rarely dropped below five knots for hours on end, we sped past our planned stopping place, not wanting to waste the wind. Tonight it’s another open anchorage called Seclusion Harbour on Kuiu island (don’t ask me to pronounce it). Fingers crossed the wind and rain abate when the sun goes down.

I was reading the visitors guide to Prince of Wales Island this morning. June is actually the driest month with less than four inches of rain on average. That compares with thirteen plus inches in October. I reckon this June must be an exception, its still raining now and I have bailed about two feet out of the pig in the last two weeks.

Tomorrow I will have a look at Rocky Pass or Keku Strait. My book says the coastguard have removed the navigational aids to deter people from using the Strait as its dangerous. Doesn’t sound right to me. No harm in having a look anyway. Total voyage distance 1,031.9 miles.

We departed Winter Harbour this morning in thick fog, visibility less than one cable. With the radar and Navionics chart backed up with echo sounder, magnetic compass and eyeball it was slow going picking through the islands towards Tonowek Narrows. As the Sea Otters appeared from the fog they had to be checked as not being logs in disguise. It was quite amusing watching their old men whiskery faces with enquiring looks as they floated past. As soon as they saw a human they disappeared in an instant underwater.

Downtown Craig, Alaska.Photo Ray Penson

Just before entering the Tonewek Narrows Narrows the fog lifted with the rising sun. The water was glassy calm all morning. In the narrows there is an Indian burial site guarded by a large wooden carving of a man standing at the edge of the trees. Quite eerie, a giant wooden gingerbread man peering out of the woods.

Later on in the day we were slowly catching a group of whales, perhaps the same group as I saw yesterday. They were about a mile ahead and travelling in the same direction. Its hard to count whales as they don’t all appear at the same time but it looked like five in the group. One had a large blow and one quite small, perhaps a mother and calf. After about an hour they turned around and started coming back towards the boat but spread out. I noticed they were taking three or four breaths on the surface and then diving down for a long period of around 3 minutes. As they dive down it’s a tremendous sight to see the tail come out of the water and disappear as if driving the whale down. There is a great power and weight in that tail.

Eagles on the dock in Craig. Ray Penson

Tonight I have taken a berth in Craig. I need to do a food restock and get some fresh produce plus do the laundry before heading out again. I am at a crossroads tonight. I don’t know if I should continue south and complete the circumnavigation of Prince of Wales Island or start heading north again. The forecast is for Southerly winds, maybe the north option is best. But the previous forecast southerly winds have not been strong enough for sailing. The trip across Sumner Strait from Craig is about 60 miles and that requires a good steady consistent wind. I will sleep on it. I still have some shopping to compete in the morning anyway. Total voyage distance 950.3 miles.

We anchored overnight in Marble Bay, where there is a mine, marble I guess. The day started flat calm and the sun shone. The air was cool but by nine in the morning it was warm enough for shorts and t shirt. Taking advantage of the warmth I opened up the boat, all hatches, carpet and bedding out in the sun, a good cleaning and airing and now everything is fresh again.

Prince of Wales Island.

Also did a bake, had fresh bread with cheese for lunch, sitting in the cockpit, with a Lighthouse Special Bitter Ale. Perfect.

Today was an afternoon sailing to transit El Capitano Passage. This passage is little known and has a seven foot depth for a twenty meter width. It seems a lot less than twenty meters wide but its well-marked, we transited at high tide so there was plenty of water.

Along the passage are numerous bays and islands with Sea Otters and Eagles everywhere. We were the only vessel in the passage and I only saw one other boat, a fishing vessel, all day. I really enjoyed this passage, a very beautiful and magical place, its one of the highlights of the voyage so far.

It was another motoring day, what little wind there was came from ahead. This evening we have anchored in Sarker Cove, off a long abandoned gold mining town called Deweyville. From the boat I can’t see much of the town, just a couple of rotten huts. I will explore further in the morning.

Deweyville Anchorage where I hooked a wire. Photo Ray Penson

When coming into the anchorage I was just about to anchor when there was a great commotion just astern. A seal had got a fish on the surface and an eagle was trying to get it. I am not sure who got the fish first, the Eagle I suspect. Whatever, the seal won the prize and the eagle took off and perched in his tree just astern of where we anchored.

There are deer on the edge of the trees, they come out and munch on the grass by the shoreline and then retreat back into the woods. I saw them doing the same thing in the early evening in Red Bay a few days ago. Total voyage distance 904.3 miles.