nice.. good to see a ford in a jeep...almost the same set up im running in my 4runner. t-18? looks like one but hard to tell with the rag on it. what headers are you running and can you please measure between the frame and tell me the wight . reason I'm asking is that i'm still running manifolds and looking for a header set up.

Thanks! It's a Ford T18 adapted to the Dana20 transfer case (TeraLow 3.15 gears and twin sticks). Everything is Ford from the motor to the t-case. I used the main shaft out of my stock Jeep T18b (it didn't have the 6.32 1st gear), but had to purchase the aluminum adapter from Advance. The stock cast iron one wouldn't work on the Ford transmission (without re-drilling).

The headers are Ford Racing F-series stainless steel models that have been Jet-Hot coated. I tried a number of differend headers, and these were the 'best' fit. I'll be running either 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" headpipes into a single 3" exhaust. Probably some model of Flowmaster.

Don't know exactly what measurement you're asking for. But if it's to check clearance with the frame rail, there is lots of room. Oh, I'm running a PMGR starter also.

thanks for the measurement, but i need just between the jeep frame measurements so i can determine if those headers with work with my frame and 302. (just in between the frame) if you can get a tape in there... jeep frames are defiantly wider than a toyota frame but i'm just wondering how much... thanks

Sorry been a busy summer. And too stinking hot to do much work on the Jeep. Then I went out September 15th on my son's quad and broke my collarbone and two ribs:

Yes...It hurt. I've had the broken ribs before, but the collarbone was a whole new experience. It's taken almost two months to get back to 95%. I did manage to get the front end installed before the accident, the hood will be replaced as it's rusting through:

After about three week of 'recovery time' I managed to Hack Fab the stock Mustang coil bracket to work on the Jeep inner fender:

Also Hack'd up a bracket for the MAF and K&N filter:

I'll need to fab up a shield for the engine side of the filter to prevent 'wash' from the engine fan. No biggie.

I ordered a headlight brightener harness and alternator charging wire kit from RJM:

The alternator wiring I mounted on the passenger side fender and routed it to the stock starter solenoid:

The headlight harness I mounted on the driver's side inner fender:

My digital camera is in NY at Nikon USA getting the CCD replaced (gratis-silent recall/repair), but I've Fab'd up new battery cables out of 2/0 welding cable. Since I'm using a battery with both top and side posts, I ran a set of cables across the firewall and onto the driver's side inner fender. I'll hook up the headlight harness there. And also the winch I picked up off Craig's List:

Then I tackled the ARB air compressor install for the front/rear air lockers:

Almost ten years since I had the lockers installed, I jacked up the axles, fired up the compressor...They work!!!! I've since mounted the switches under the dash and completed the wiring.

I'll post some more pics when the brown truck brings my camera back...

The ones that were available on the aftermarket were just a bit too short. I'll be hooking up the ARB, Fuse Panel (check the Maxi fuse attached to the battery box in place of the original fusible link), and ECM power wires to them.

Also check out the way overkill 2/0 cables and how I ran power to the other side of the CJ:

I attached the headlight brightener harness to the terminal studs and I'll also use it for the winch and any additional auxiliary lighting relays.

The really 'sick' part is that the pics don't show the 'Hack Fabrication' lettering that was printed on the cables by the company I purchased them from.

Just a bit of 'Hack Humor'....

I also repaired the horn button on my sport steering wheel...There is a clear plastic 'crystal' that cover's the Jeep Logo in the center of the button. It's very common for them to be either cracked or completely broken out. And of course on a 30 year old vehicle the Jeep dealers laugh at you. And with all sorts of licensing problems, they aren't available in the aftermarket.

Well I located a company in NY that sells watch crystals in various sizes, they aren't the fit of the original, but with a bit of Pliobond adhesive and some Permatex black....Just like new: