Flowers

One of the joys of living among Western North Carolina’s mountains is discovering wildflowers—alone or in profusion: beside a hiking trail, along the roadside, or in an open meadow. Some 300 different wildflower species grow along the Blue Ridge Parkway, and 1,500 flowering trees, shrubs, and herbaceous species grace the Great Smoky Mountains, more than any other national park in North America!

Trout Lily

Are wildflowers native plants?According to the North Carolina Extension Gardener Handbook: “Native plants are those species that evolved naturally in a region without any major change or improvement by humans. The term wildflower is often used to describe native plants, but may also refer to naturalized plants that are not indigenous to the region.”

People import exotic wildflowers and help them spread through landscape-altering activities such as mowing, farming, logging, and development. Nature—in the form of wind, floods, landslides, and fire, as well as birds, animals, and insects—also spread these alien plant species!

Why such wildflower diversity in the Appalachians?The Appalachian Mountains provide a unique environment that offers an incredible variety of habitats to support our diverse wildflower population. Plants settle where the environmental conditions are best suited to their survival. And here in Western North Carolina, many different wildflower species have found their “ecological niche.”

Temperature and moisture. A wide range in elevation offers wildflowers a variety of temperatures and moisture levels. The Blue Ridge Parkway at its lowest point is 649 feet above sea level at the James River Visitor Center in Virginia and ascends to 6,684 feet at Mt. Mitchell in North Carolina—the highest point east of the Mississippi. This dramatic change in elevation creates several different climate zones ranging from warm to cool. Temperatures can vary as much as 20ºF in relatively short distances. The lower elevations have an average of 200 frost-free days each year, while higher elevations have only 100 frost-free days! The Appalachians receive abundant annual rainfall, but only an average of 50 to 55 inches at lower elevations, in contrast to 80 to 90 inches at higher elevations.

Aspect. The direction a slope faces and its shape (concave cove, convex hillside, or ridgeline) affects the amount of sunlight, rainfall, and wind protection that wildflowers receive. North-facing slopes are shady and cooler than sunnier south- and west-oriented slopes. A shady cove nestled between two mountains is moist, and cool, while a ridge exposed to the sun is hot and dry.

Soil. Soil conditions also influence which wildflowers take root. Sandstone and acidic bedrock are the predominant soil types in the southern Appalachians, but there are also areas of less acidic limestone soils rich in calcium. Evergreen and deciduous woodlands generate nutrient-rich organic matter on forest floors that supports many wildflowers.

Fernleaved phacelia (Phacelia bipinnatifida) germinates in fall to provide a leafy-green winter carpet before early spring flowering, while most wildflowers don’t leaf out until spring.

Phacelia in winter showing rosette of leaves

Ephemerals, like Dutchman’s breeches (Dicentra cucullaria) and trillium (Trillium spp.), emerge in early spring well before trees leaf out and when they can take full advantage of sunlight reaching the forest floor. They flower, fruit, and die back all within a short two-month period. By May or June, the ephemerals have no leaves, stems, or above ground structures to signal the hiker of their existence. They go dormant and disappear below ground until the next spring.

Dutchman’s breeches

Wherever you hike or drive in the Appalachians, you’ll find the wildflower display changes day to day and mile to mile. These jewels of the mountains await your discovery.

Stay tunedWildflowers Part II outlines identification characteristics and conservation efforts.Wildflowers Part III describes a few of the most common southern Appalachian wildflowers.Wildflowers Part IV discusses gardening with wildflowers.

If late summer and autumn allergies—known as “hay fever”—affect you, you are not alone! Millions of Americans suffer from seasonal runny nose and itchy, watery eyes. Much of this allergic reaction is blamed on goldenrod and ragweed, when, in fact, only ragweed spreads irritating pollen—goldenrod does not! Goldenrods (Solidago spp.) and ragweed (Ambrosia spp.) mature in late summer; but the showier goldenrod is insect-pollinated, not wind-pollinated and that’s what makes the difference.

Fall meadow dressed in goldenrod

Ragweeds are the villains!Ragweeds are annual native weeds found in cultivated areas, as well as along roadsides and meadows in heavy soils. In early spring, common ragweed’s (A. artemisiifolia) first leaves are opposite but become more deeply dissected and arranged alternately as the plant matures. It can grow to 4 feet tall. It produces only inconspicuous flowers of nondescript color, but in early autumn, breezes distribute clouds of allergy-causing pollen as we seek to enjoy the late summer and early autumn. If you learn to recognize its leaves, it is easy pull any time before it flowers, and mowing will keep it under control—you will be shearing off any flower stalks before they bloom. Note that we also have giant ragweed (A. trifida) in our area that also produces irritating pollen. It is much taller—up to 16 feet!—and has opposite leaves with 3 to 5 large lobes and flowers much like common ragweed.

Common ragweed

Giant ragweed

Ragweed flowerhead

Welcome goldenrod to your garden!Goldenrod is a native herbaceous perennial in the aster or Asteraceae family that presents dazzling displays of brilliant yellow flowers in open meadows and roadsides. These bright yellow flowers hold sticky pollen that attract bees, butterflies, and other insects until early frost. As the floral display matures, birds flock onto upright stems to enjoy the seeds.

Goldenrod

Goldenrod flowerhead

Goldenrod seeds

Although sometimes viewed as weeds, these wildflowers represent a very diverse collection of many species:

They range in size from little more than 12 inches to 6 feet tall.

Some spread aggressively, while others form well-behaved clumps.

In addition to soft plumes, goldenrods’ yellow flowers can be spiky or even zig-zagged!

There are species adapted to many habitats, from salt marshes, to swamps, prairies and woodlands.

Goldenrod in the garden

Those found in our mountains are a welcome addition to perennial gardens, combining well with Echinacea, ironweeds (Vernonia spp.), Joe Pye weeds (Eutrochium spp.), Rudbeckias, taller sedums, and ornamental grasses to add vivid color to the late summer garden. They are also lovely additions to floral arrangements. Some local natives include:

Early goldenrod (Solidago juncea) starts blooming in July and is drought-tolerant.

Sweet goldenrod (Solidago odora) has anise-scented shiny leaves, reaches only about 2 to 3 feet tall and has a well-behaved clumping habit.

Common goldenrod (Solidago altissima altissima also known as Solidago canadensis var. scabra) is a tall (up to 6 feet) plant that spreads aggressively by underground rhizomes, which can be an advantage in controlling erosion, even on steep slopes.

Goldenrods are subject to very few diseases, and although you may see some galls, spider mites and lace bugs, deer typically ignore them.

So, as September arrives, bringing the first falling leaves, hints of coolness in the air, and breezes carrying pollen, don’t be concerned about goldenrod. It’s a harmless beauty!

What to do about allergies?Donna Teasley, Extension Agent, recommends ways allergy sufferers can keep symptoms to a minimum:

Avoid hanging laundry to dry outside.

Hire someone to mow the lawn during late summer.

Keep bedroom windows closed at night.

Keep car windows rolled up while driving.

Stay indoors on windy days and at peak pollen hours—early morning and late afternoon.

While these suggestions can certainly help allergy sufferers cope, one final thing we can do to lift our spirits as we gaze outdoors or ride along is to take time to enjoy the goldenrods!

Q: My bearded iris didn’t bloom well this year. I suspect they are overcrowded. Will dividing them help and, if so, how and when should I do it?

Bearded iris

A: Bearded iris (Iris germanica) are hardy, low-maintenance, spectacular-blooming, spring perennials that perform best in sunny gardens with light, loamy soil with a pH of 6 to 7. Erv Evans, NCSU Extension Associate, notes that in addition to overcrowding, “planting in excessive shade, using excessive nitrogen fertilizer, or planting the rhizomes too deep” may be responsible for poor flowering in bearded iris. Whether or not you are dividing the iris, cut the bloom stems off about two inches above the rhizome after the blooms fade. This prevents seed formation and promotes better blooms next season. Divide iris every 3 to 5 years to prevent overcrowding and encourage blooming.

The good news is that irises are easy to divide! Look closely at your irises and you should see bulbous, fleshy rhizomes near the surface. These form a network that stores food produced by the leaves. Each year underground offsets develop from the original rhizome, and it is this growth pattern that can lead to overcrowding.

Iris rhizomes

Step One: Preparing the plantYou can divide iris at any time of the year, but the recommended time is 4 to 6 weeks after blooming. Identify the clumps you want to separate. Using a small shovel or a garden fork, loosen the soil around the perimeter, carefully lift each clump, shake off as much soil as possible, and then hose off the roots.

Step Two: Divide and conquerUsing a garden knife, cut off sections from the original rhizome. Check to make sure each division has white roots (a sign of good health), a minimum of one healthy leaf fan, and no evidence of borers or disease. Trim back broken roots and cut the leaves into a fan shape, leaving about one-third foliage on each division. Be sure to discard remaining pieces of rhizome, roots, and leaves.

Planting bearded iris

Step Three: Planting the divided offsetsChoose a garden spot for the divided rhizomes and prepare shallow holes. In the center of each hole, make a mound of soil that is high enough to keep the new clump slightly above soil level. Evans suggests spreading the roots around the mound before filling with soil and watering. Replant the rhizomes at or slightly below the soil surface so that feeder roots can penetrate the soil below. For massed bloom, plant at least three rhizomes, 8 to 10 inches apart.

Ongoing maintenanceBearded iris don’t require much attention, but to look their best, remove yellowing or diseased foliage. These plants need nitrogen, potash, and phosphorus in moderation. In the absence of a soil test, Evans recommends incorporating a ½ pound of low nitrogen fertilizer (such as 5-10-10) per 50 sq. ft.

This question is one of many received and answered by Master Gardener volunteers on the Buncombe County Garden Helpline. Got a gardening question? We’ve got answers! Give us a call at 828-255-5522.