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Belly Pod

Does a belly pod create any problems with "ground clearance" when on skis?
Is there room for tent, tent fly, tent poles, two mattress pads, sleeping bag, wing and engine covers and two small backpacks - one with survival items and one with food?
Can a belly pod be used when on floats? (Not that I really need the extra space since I have big compartments and carry less stuff during the summer).

I think it would depend on your skis. My big Carbon Concept skis are buried here but the pod stayed above the snow. The gear is 3" extended and the pedestals put the axle nearly as high as it is on 31's.

If the snow is deep enough it just acts like another ski. Standard pod can carry a lot when properly packed, when you say tent and mattress pads, how big are you talking? Experimental guys can get the extra deep pod.
DENNY

If the snow is deep enough it just acts like another ski. Standard pod can carry a lot when properly packed, when you say tent and mattress pads, how big are you talking? Experimental guys can get the extra deep pod.
DENNY

Um, not necessarily. My experience with that on a Cessna 185 with a much more streamlined pod than some Cub pods was that it created HUGE drag if it got in snow.....and if it was deep, it got in the snow. I did a lot of snowshoe prepping takeoffs that winter.

A Cub on big skis, being a much lighter airplane, is a lot less likely to get into this situation, but I've been in snow conditions with a Cub that I really, really wouldn't have wanted a pod on the plane. Like four foot deep powder.....

Does a belly pod create any problems with "ground clearance" when on skis?
Is there room for tent, tent fly, tent poles, two mattress pads, sleeping bag, wing and engine covers and two small backpacks - one with survival items and one with food?
Can a belly pod be used when on floats? (Not that I really need the extra space since I have big compartments and carry less stuff during the summer).

Depending on the pod, you probably will have to reroute the wire for the rudder lift. On mine, the wire was attached to the both end wire from the rudder at about over the rear spreader bar so I’ve made a bracket with a pulley attached to the left rigging strut. That way, it pull a little bit much more on the left rudder than the right.

I don’t know if I’m the only one to have experienced this with a belly pod on floats but I’m no more able to turn when the floats are “plow”. Before having the pod installed, I could begin to turn, lift the rudders, full power and continue to full turn until I got on the step, usefull on small lake . Now, when I put full power, even if I press full rudder one side or the other, it only goes straight. Am I the only one to live that?

And for the content, here’s the measurements

25” wide in front
14” depth at the deepest
82” long
And about 8-10” depth at the rear end

That is correct, there are downsides with floats- but still easier than the Atlee extended baggage

I had the Airglass Combo pod, so door was smaller than the Bush pod. Bush Pod, or Randy's carbon one, are much bigger. Randy has a door in back, so for floats that might be the ticket also.

For the pull up system, I had a loop from one rudder to the other with an eye set where it pulled each rudder evenly. I used a small braided parachute type chord from my pull up handle down to the eye in the cable loop. I ran a piece of stainless or aluminum around a spreader bar and mounted a pulley to it inline with where the cabin line came out; line went from the eye, through the pulley and into the cabin with no chaffing of the pod. Took about an hour to fab up. Was also cheap and easy to take apart and replace every two or three years when it might need it.

That is correct, there are downsides with floats- but still easier than the Atlee extended baggage

I had the Airglass Combo pod, so door was smaller than the Bush pod. Bush Pod, or Randy's carbon one, are much bigger. Randy has a door in back, so for floats that might be the ticket also.

For the pull up system, I had a loop from one rudder to the other with an eye set where it pulled each rudder evenly. I used a small braided parachute type chord from my pull up handle down to the eye in the cable loop. I ran a piece of stainless or aluminum around a spreader bar and mounted a pulley to it inline with where the cabin line came out; line went from the eye, through the pulley and into the cabin with no chaffing of the pod. Took about an hour to fab up. Was also cheap and easy to take apart and replace every two or three years when it might need it.

On floats, you can forget the pod’s back door, too hard to access (for me)

Do you experience the same issue, turning while the the floats are “plow” is impossible, it goes straight until you’re not on the step?