Since your unit is gutted, and I am making the assumption that you will be remodeling the inside. (IE adding stuff) You may want to wait on getting new axles untill you can weigh the trailer after it is completed. Since the weight in the chart is what A/S did from the factory, what you are doing may be different. (And may be not) That difference may weigh differently too. So getting a new axle installed may be under or way over what the total load will be when you are done.

Too light of an axle and you will have premature axle failure. Or other failures such as wheel bearings, brakes ......

Too heavy of an axle and the insides could be rattled and possibility rivits will work loose.

Axle replacement for these units can be custom ordered to fit the application. You can get an axle that has a higher or lower weight rating than what it was originally built, with in reason.

And when you can determine the greatest load that the trailer will ever have, add 10% and then spec out your axle for that number. Why 10%? Because as trailers age they do the same thing as I have done as I age. They gain weight! The 10% is a good cushion for safety.

Thanks eveyone for the good info. I,m shooting for around 3000lbs empty weight but I'm sure it will creep up. I just needed a good starting place. I'm going to change the floorplan somewhat from stock but it will be light using foam and honeycomb panels just about everywhere I can, but I know how weight can creep up. I want to use the trailer this fall without alot of the interior installed yet so weighting after completion will be difficult. The rubber on my torsion arms is as hard as a rock, and I do not want to vibrate all of my new metal work apart. I am surprised that the original was rated for 4500lbs. I won't even consider a 5000lb unit. I was expecting somewhere in the 4000lb bracket. Thanks Again