The Kapiti iKids are hard shot . Brent was telling me another rider was already down on the same corner , his gearbox had lunched & left it's contents on the track . I suspect they are not real good mates.

I used a set of boat trailer rollers but only 1 was driven. The motor would hit compression & stop while the driven roller kept spinning & sending a shower of roller rubber out the back. Back to the drawing board

Mark 2 sort of grew organically , this means I made it up as I went along

Spacing of rollers increased, both driven , steel rollers coated with por15 & sand then some black deck liner pooh over the top. Guards were a kind of adhoc after thought

I've been waiting & waiting for over 3 months now for bits that were to take 4 to 6 weeks . Last week I was told the pistons & rods were ready so I asked for them to be shipped so I could get the crank dynamically balance & rebuild the bottom end while waiting for the barrels.
By Tuesday there was no shipping notice so more phone calls & an email came last night.
The barrels had arrived back from the plating co & are a complete stuff up , either sleeve them or start again which is another 3/4 weeks. : I suspect they have somehow ended up being over sized in the bore but could not be bothered asking. I've told them to keep the pistons & rods until the barrel is complete then send the lot.
Meantime I shall put the motor back together in pretty much standard form except for the new cams & run it till the new gear arrives.
Frustrating, very frustrating.

Mean time the twin disc is all set up & I have been polishing the rockers, while I have been quietly going off mine.
I'll stick up pics over the next couple of days as things start to go back together ready for Taupo on April 20.

As you probably picked up from Volty's classic racer thread, Winston got put back together in standard form for Taupo. It was all extremely last minute & late nights as I was away a fair bit with work so had no time. Winston got started up 2 nights before the Taupo meeting, clouds of smoke every where. I figured , ' bugger it we'll go any way , maybe it will bed in ' , I knew this was a forlorn hope.
Saturday & I started him up for the first practice & almost immediately shut him down, the smoke was so bad I could not see the point in carrying on with the possibility of causing real damage
Graeme Cole who has forgotten more than I will ever know about building race motors was of the opinion that the new rings I had fitted were of dubious quality. The old oil ring was a 3 piece ring, the replacement a 1 piece & this was the problem.
Strip down has revealed no broken rings, if I fit one of the rings into the barrel , the end gap is corrrect & when held up to the light ring seems to seal in the barrel, ultimately buggered if I know & it no longer matters.

It has only taken 5 months but the new gear is ready for shipment, we are down to discussing whether the barrels should be secured with bolts or studs & nuts, should be shipped out this week, Well here's hoping.

Studs and nuts - you don't want to be winding bolts in and out of an alloy crankcase every week. Years ago talking to an old guy (???) who used to build race engines - he never used oil rings, the 2nd ring is called a scraper ring for a reason. I presume he won because no one could see to get passed. I like a 3 piece in worn engines, a 4 piece doesn't float in the groove....but they are hard on bores. For that reason I never used them in British bikes....who needs increased bore wear ? Never really had a problem with one piece oil rings, there was always another cause for oil burning. You could use an expander behind the ring, but like a 4 piece it's brutal and won't float in the groove.

In the spirit of watching grass grow I have cleaned up the rocker gear

Unpolished & fat 104 gms

The lightest unpolished rocker was 92 gms

It got a light going over with the dremel to remove sharp edges & a light polish

Work in progress

Rockers are now between 92 & 94 grammes

Those nasty Thackery washes that create friction were replaced by hardened shims, took lots of dressing on the stone ,fitting , checking for side play & smooth rotation of rockers on spindles & then repeat & repeat & repeat.

Back together

Surprising the variation in weight for standard parts ,10% . Quality control was never their strong point

Probably around 10 or 12 hours labour in that lot. Sure felt like watching paint dry

Bleed screw at the bottom ? No, I'm not coming to help you bleed the brakes. I guess seeing as you can waste 12 hours on rockers, taking the callipers off and holding them up in the air is no problem for a simple brake bleed.

Thanks for your input Motu. I am fully aware of my meagre talents as a mechanic & need every bit of help I can get,
Fortunately AP Racing seem to know more about brakes than I do, if you look at the other caliper there is a bleed screw at the top of the caliper opposite the incoming hose, you can't see it on the near caliper as it is behind the fork leg.
Does this mean it is possible to bleed without removal of the caliper, the bleed screw is not in a user friendly spot but it is at the top of the caliper.
Am I missing something here , highly likely by the way.

The rocker mods are based on the Stan Shenton book for performance tuning Triumphs & an article on a Triumph factory mechanic who prod raced Bonnies.
Both recommended losing the Thackery washers to reduce friction & polishing the rockers to reduce the risk of fatigue failure. Waste of time ? I guess only time will tell.

Ah, right you are. Reminds me when I was bleeding some 4 pot Volvo brakes many years ago and getting very verbal about them fitting one bleed screw between each piston, and separate hoses to each side of the calliper - how fucking stupid is that? After a while I see the bleed screws at the top hidden behind the hoses.

My pre unit T110 engine had lightened and polished rockers, and drilled timing gears...it was just something they did in the '60's, like polishing ports. Looked really cool with the timing cover off. The pre unit gears were narrower than the unit gears....are the 750 ones even wider ?

Chroming everything was something they used to do a lot of too, did that make them go faster?
Lightened and polished timing gears look nice.
Are you getting better quality pushrods? Once you start the search for more power you need to look at every component differently as the originals are now over 35 years old.