I would say no, you cannot use the top enclosure as shown. I'm not saying you cannot use an enclosure with the palette (I know your intent is ABS and ABS "like" materials), however, that path and the bend radius if all you did was drill a hole in the lid isn't going to cut the mustard.

There are a couple of simple rules with the palette, and yet implementing them is a challenge unless you really understand it.#1 You must have a controlled bend radius of the filament exiting the palette all the way until consumed by the extruder and especially at the tube to entrance of the extruder is the one place most likely to be hard. WHY? Because when you slap that short lid on there, it ALREADY bends the factory supplied guide tubes. With the palette, you now have the encoder in the middle and thicker guide tubes to further limit bend radius so you don't break splices (very important as while ABS splicing works, they are not the same bending strength as PLA splices and can be broken)#2 You have to account for the loading sequence, the start of the print, being able to remove the lid for loading. This isn't load the filament and print like before. You start over each job with cut and spliced filament. That means it starts and goes through the guide tube and then must feed into the extruder and then you lock the guide tube into the top guide on the extruder to ensure bend radius limit is maintained.#3 You also have to be careful if you decide to extend the guide tube, it's important to maintain secure connections and all the other details.

Jetguy wrote:I would say no, you cannot use the top enclosure as shown. I'm not saying you cannot use an enclosure with the palette (I know your intent is ABS and ABS "like" materials), however, that path and the bend radius if all you did was drill a hole in the lid isn't going to cut the mustard.

There are a couple of simple rules with the palette, and yet implementing them is a challenge unless you really understand it.

Im curious if you still use the factory file settings for your Palette after all this time. I copied one of your S3D profiles when I got my palette last year and I still use it. Works fine, except it doesnt purge the nozzle before the start. Normally not a problem, as the skirt printing usually gets the plastic flowing.

HOWEVER tonight I tried to print a super small part, and it didnnt get enough filament out on the first 2-3 layers to really adhere to the bed, so it ended up failing. I want to add a purge to the starting gcode. Is it as easy as just adding a G92 E0G1 F200 E10G92 E0

to this gcode i pulled from your factory file?

G21G90M82M107G28 X0 Y0G28 Z0;G1 F ;Mosaic said the original code wasnt supported by chroma so commented this outM117 Printing...M1001; **** end of start.gcode ****

Actually, let me give you a new setup because it ties into another discussion about an errant flow rate setup being left in active firmware memory.G21G90M82M107G28 X0 Y0G28 Z0G1 Z0.5 M221 T0 S100G92 E0G1 F140 E30G92 E0M117 Printing...M1001; **** end of start.gcode ****

Here is also my tip and thought. At some point, some script I got for the N series used 30mm starting prime. I know some might say that seems excessive, but here is the difference, 10mm may not make a long enough noodle over the edge of the bed to properly break off and not get dragged by the nozzle. A longer purge like 30mm is really not much filament, but makes a much more likely to break off piece, not get dragged into the print, and easier to clean up out of the bottom of your printer.

Second part is, the M221 T0 S100 sets the flowrate multiplier in firmware to 100% meaning 1:1 matching the gcode length. I've seen issues where Ideamaker profiles leave a lesser flowrate after a print, and this throws off your precision calibration off by a huge amount when using the palette.

Had the Palette+ for a week so far. Here's my setup, your mileage may vary with ABS, so you might want to mount it differently, but so far my PLA splices are pretty much as strong as the original filament. I extended the tube by cutting the very end off the short piece included, drilling it out to 4mm, and gluing in a countersunk piece of standard teflon tubing.

With the bondtech extruder, the extrusion is incredibly consistent, all my pings are within 100±0.4%. Current Chroma settings are 50mm transition length and 20% target, and I'm probably going to try lower next time since I still have a good amount of the new color extruded before going back to the print. I always load the filament from the utilities menu, which lets you get a consistent <1mm loading.

The 5% default for sparse transition tower caused some issues, it seems like Chroma underextrudes rather than using an infill pattern, which led to enough roughness on the tower to cause skipped steps. I've switched to side transitions which work fine.