Paddle Ludington State Park's unique water trail

Kim Schneider | Grand Rapids Press News ServicePaddlers enter an unexpectedly remote section of the Ludington State Park water trail. The popular state park is in Ludington, Mich.

LUDINGTON, Mich. -- We have paddled out of sight of the purple paddleboat we followed off the Hamlin Lake beach at Ludington State Park in Ludington, Mich.

Within the boundaries of Michigan's most-visited state park, we're feeling like early explorers venturing where no one has gone before.

Our only travel companions for the past half hour have been a family of swans grooming themselves in the sunshine, the adults crooking necks in warning as we floated too close to the fluffy chicks. We catch a glimpse of a distant dune off Ludington State Park, and nothing else, as we duck into the waving reeds of a deep inlet.

"Have you ever read the journals of Lewis and Clark?" Margaret asks from the back of the canoe. And I know just what she's thinking.

True, there are signs that we're not the first to discover this tiny canoe passage. The most obvious of those is the fact we're navigating the shoreline of Hamlin Lake by means of numbered signs with arrows that direct our way.

Kim Schneider | Grand Rapids Press News ServiceOne of several markers helps assure that park adventurers don't get lost as they explore the unique water trail at Ludington State Park in Ludington, Mich.

These markers are leading us through one of Michigan's state park water trails, a 2.5-mile stretch of shoreline, bayous and ponds. And it's just one way to cover the park's massive 5,300 acres, a system so diverse that wildlife is ever-present.

Park manager Dan Flaherty estimates about 1 million visitors a year venture through this waterway.

Our first surprise as we moved into one of the park's three camper cabins was someone had beaten us there. Three deer munched, unfazed, by our front door as we hauled in the pots and pans. And that was just the beginning.

A tree-climbing raccoon drew a small crowd of admirers as we hiked the Island Trail. A Great Blue Heron fishing from a rock was the highlight of a bike ride along the Sable River as it formed a comical triad with two human fishermen wading in the river near the base of the dam. (Note: Bikes and canoes can be rented in the camp store inside Cedar Campground).

Back on the canoe trail, we're wishing for a bit more human traffic, if only to be convinced of this trail's navigability. We emerge from tall reeds to find an open pond notable for the dozens of smallish trees sticking out of the water. We ping-pong off several of them as we try to follow where the last arrow seemed to lead, but still aren't especially worried.

The more we're waylaid, the more our attention shifts from the scenic vistas of dunes in the distance to the equally striking details nearby.

Dragonflies land on our paddles and the backs of our hands. Odd plant formations like terrariums showcasing a single bloom decorate our route. The glimmering water evokes a sense of magic.

"It's like nature's art gallery," my observant friend remarks.

There's also the occasional educational marker to peruse, part of the formal trail. One sign showcases the pond flowers blooming around us.

With a few zigzags, we make it to the three-step or so portage into "John's Pond." The trail leads us back to Hamlin Lake, where we catch up with another pair of adventurers who appear to be waiting for us. They are.

"Did you see the eagle?" they whisper, pointing to one sitting in a tree ahead.

Once they're satisfied we've spotted the majestic bird, they paddle ahead, a pair of swans ushering their canoe around the bend as we follow. The eagle leaves its perch and swoops over our heads, as the wind picks up and our attention turns to paddling small whitecaps in the open area of Hamlin Lake.

As we head toward the beach, we hear a deep bark that reminds us of a sea lion (not likely), perhaps a Sasquatch (even less). We never spot what was probably just a camper's massive dog as we drag the canoe onto shore. We just chalk it up to another fitting park mystery and head off for a giant ice cream cone at the camp store.