Fish fraud

Mislabeling in seafood, according to a major national study

By By VANESSA HO

on February 21, 2013 2:31 PM

Photo: Micha Schwing/Getty Images/Flickr RF

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Poseur fish? Through DNA testing, ocean protection group Oceana found that one third of 1,215 fish samples collected from groceries and restaurants were mislabeled under federal guidelines. Snapper and tuna were the most common victims of fish fraud. less

Poseur fish? Through DNA testing, ocean protection group Oceana found that one third of 1,215 fish samples collected from groceries and restaurants were mislabeled under federal guidelines. Snapper and tuna ... more

How did Seattle stack up? The study found that just 18 percent of fish tested here – 1 in 5 samples – was mislabeled. That tied with Boston for the lowest rate of fish deception in cities tested. (It's unknown if researchers tested fish from the Pike Place Market, pictured). less

How did Seattle stack up? The study found that just 18 percent of fish tested here – 1 in 5 samples – was mislabeled. That tied with Boston for the lowest rate of fish deception in cities tested. (It's ... more

Photo: Mike Kane, Seattle Post-Intelligencer

How did Seattle stack up? The study found that just 18 percent... Photo-4232271.57197 - seattlepi.com

What constituted mislabeling? Let’s start with snapper, which had the highest rate - 87 percent – of mislabeling. Most of the time, it meant another fish – often cheaper tilapia or rockfish – posing as snapper.

But in 20 percent of cases, mislabeled snapper meant one species posing as another species in the snapper family. (Calling a lane snapper a red snapper, for instance). less

What constituted mislabeling? Let’s start with snapper, which had the highest rate - 87 percent – of mislabeling. Most of the time, it meant another fish – often cheaper tilapia or rockfish – posing as ... more

When it came to red snapper (pictured), only seven of 120 samples bought nationally were actually red snapper.

When it came to red snapper (pictured), only seven of 120 samples bought nationally were actually red snapper.

Photo: Carolyn Taylor Photography, Getty Images

When it came to red snapper (pictured), only seven of 120 samples... Photo-4232275.57197 - seattlepi.com

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In Seattle, all 10 snapper samples tested by researchers were mislabeled. Other fish pretended to be snapper, including Pacific creolefish, tilapia, sea bream, and this guy, a rockfish (or one of his related species). less

In Seattle, all 10 snapper samples tested by researchers were mislabeled. Other fish pretended to be snapper, including Pacific creolefish, tilapia, sea bream, and this guy, a rockfish (or one of his related ... more

Tuna had the second highest rate of name fraud, with researchers finding it mislabeled 59 percent of the time. The highest percent of tuna deception occurred in sushi places, where 71 percent of samples were mislabeled, the study said. less

Tuna had the second highest rate of name fraud, with researchers finding it mislabeled 59 percent of the time. The highest percent of tuna deception occurred in sushi places, where 71 percent of samples were ... more

Photo: Ming Thein / Mingthein.com, Getty Images/Flickr RF

Tuna had the second highest rate of name fraud, with researchers... Photo-4232278.57197 - seattlepi.com

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Most of the tuna tested was called “white tuna,” and most of that – 84 percent – turned out to be escolar, which is not tuna. This happened quite often in sushi restaurants.

Escolar (pictured), also called “oilfish,” has a toxin that can make people sick. Hence, its nickname of “Ex-Lax fish.” The FDA advises against its sale. less

Most of the tuna tested was called “white tuna,” and most of that – 84 percent – turned out to be escolar, which is not tuna. This happened quite often in sushi restaurants.

Most of the tuna tested was called “ white tuna ,” and most of... Photo-4232280.57197 - seattlepi.com

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What about Seattle's most iconic fish - salmon? It had one of the lowest fraud rates nationally, in which only 7 percent of samples that were mislabeled. Most of the deception came from Atlantic farmed salmon posing as wild, Chinook or King salmon. less

What about Seattle's most iconic fish - salmon? It had one of the lowest fraud rates nationally, in which only 7 percent of samples that were mislabeled. Most of the deception came from Atlantic farmed salmon ... more

Photo: Nigel O'Neil, Getty Images/Flickr Open

What about Seattle's most iconic fish - salmon ? It had one... Photo-4232281.57197 - seattlepi.com

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When it comes to salmon in Seattle, we have one of the highest accuracy-in-labeling rates: 98 percent. The only mislabeled salmon researchers found here was a piece of sockeye in a restaurant that turned out to be king. less

When it comes to salmon in Seattle, we have one of the highest accuracy-in-labeling rates: 98 percent. The only mislabeled salmon researchers found here was a piece of sockeye in a restaurant that turned out to ... more

Photo: Maren Caruso, Getty Images

When it comes to salmon in Seattle , we have one of the highest... Photo-4232283.57197 - seattlepi.com

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Like fish and chips? Know that one in four cod samples - and one in five halibut samples - were mislabeled nationally. Usually one species posed as another species in the same family. (Pacific cod subbed for Atlantic cod, for example). less

Like fish and chips? Know that one in four cod samples - and one in five halibut samples - were mislabeled nationally. Usually one species posed as another species in the same family. (Pacific cod subbed for ... more

Photo: Joe Mikos Photography LLC

Like fish and chips ? Know that one in four cod samples - and... Photo-4232285.57197 - seattlepi.com

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The most mislabeled fish in sushi places were snapper and tuna, which followed the same pattern found in groceries and other restaurants. If you’re a hamachi fan, know that Oceana considered every hamachi or yellowtail sample “mislabeled.” less

The most mislabeled fish in sushi places were snapper and tuna, which followed the same pattern found in groceries and other restaurants. If you’re a hamachi fan, know that Oceana considered every hamachi or ... more

Photo: Whitewish, Getty Images

The most mislabeled fish in sushi places were snapper and tuna ,... Photo-4232286.57197 - seattlepi.com

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Wait, how can every piece of yellowtail be mislabeled? That must have raised the fish-fraud rate for sushi places.

Yes, it did. Oceana considers fish “mislabeled” if it wasn’t named in line with the FDA. The feds say only one species of amberjack fish can be called “yellowtail” (pictured, left).
But “yellowtail” is often used to refer to different kinds of amberjack. Researchers think this vernacular use - plus a possible language barrier - contributes to the problem. less

Wait, how can every piece of yellowtail be mislabeled? That must have raised the fish-fraud rate for sushi places.

Yes, it did. Oceana considers fish “mislabeled” if it wasn’t named in line with the FDA. ... more

Photo: Kevin Tuong, Getty Images/Flickr Open

Wait, how can every piece of yellowtail be mislabeled ? That must... Photo-4232288.57197 - seattlepi.com

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Why do fish names matter? For one thing, it helps prevent health risks, especially for people who should avoid mercury. The study found high-mercury fish posing as safer fish, including king mackerel for grouper, and tilefish for red snapper. less

Why do fish names matter? For one thing, it helps prevent health risks, especially for people who should avoid mercury. The study found high-mercury fish posing as safer fish, including king mackerel for ... more

But what about the small-sounding things, like vermilion snapper stepping in for Pacific dog snapper?
Researchers say the distinctions are important if you want to know where your fish came from, and if you want it sustainable. less

But what about the small-sounding things, like vermilion snapper stepping in for Pacific dog snapper?
Researchers say the distinctions are important if you want to know where your fish came from, and if you ... more

Photo: Jupiterimages, Www.jupiterimages.com

But what about the small-sounding things, like vermilion snapper... Photo-4232293.57197 - seattlepi.com

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Where was fish fraud the worst? Southern California had the highest mislabeling rate, where more than half – 52 percent – of mislabeling. Northern Californians didn’t look good, either, with a 38 percent mislabeling rate. less

Where was fish fraud the worst? Southern California had the highest mislabeling rate, where more than half – 52 percent – of mislabeling. Northern Californians didn’t look good, either, with a 38 percent ... more

Photo: Kevin Tuong, Getty Images/Flickr RF

Where was fish fraud the worst? Southern California had the... Photo-4232294.57197 - seattlepi.com

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Oceana, which is headquartered in Washington, D.C., collected fish from 2010 to 2012. Other studies have confronted fish fraud in the past, but this was one of the largest national studies ever done on the subject. Oceana looked only at American seafood retail outlets, so wasn’t able to say where in the global food chain the fraud began. less

Oceana, which is headquartered in Washington, D.C., collected fish from 2010 to 2012. Other studies have confronted fish fraud in the past, but this was one of the largest national studies ever done on the ... more