But it doesn't look like many we've encountered. And that's not a bad thing.

Oh, sure, we appreciate the atmosphere of a weathered, well-seasoned barbecue joint, in Peoria and elsewhere. Then again, perhaps more than most any other gustatorial genre, slow-cooked meats often lurk inside ramshackle shanties, making you wonder less about the secret sauce than the health-inspection score.

Not Off-the-Bone. Outside, sweet smoke beckons you inside, which looks nothing like an eatery or any business at all. Recently opened inside a former spa, its cozy carpet and bar - plus a radiant, spic-and-span gleam - give it the look of a suburban basement. Granted, the decor could use some punch, as the walls are almost entirely bare. Still, this might be the tidiest barbecue spot in the Midwest, and cleanliness is a nice thing with food prep. Plus, on our visit, the place was cranking some delightful bawdy blues, which you don't hear often around these parts.

The menu hits all the barbecue requisites among chicken, pork and beef. But you'll find some creativity, too, like the Smoking Klucker Dinner ($7.99): two breaded chicken patties dipped in homemade sauce.

Inspired by that ingenuity, my wife ordered the Fat Tire Dinner ($9.99), toasted sourdough bread jammed with pulled pork, cheese sauce and barbecue sauce. The flavors melded together deliciously, and it was surprisingly easy to handle.

I opted for the Dinner Combo ($11.50), which offers a choice of two from these meats: three bones' worth of pork ribs, pulled pork, beef brisket or catfish fillet. The lightly seasoned brisket was succulent, and you're offered two homemade barbecue sauces: Smokehouse, which is sweet, and Memphis Kiss, which carries a subtle tang. Both are delightful.

But the ribs were a disappointment: small and dry. The flavor was decent, but otherwise lackluster.

Meanwhile, each dinner comes with the choice of two sides from 10 possibilities. The baked beans were fantastic, sort of a collision with chili, while the macaroni and cheese was as rich and creamy as you could ever want. The fried okra was decent, while the fries were barely warm and seemingly overdone.

The desserts offered a mixed result. The double-chocolate cake ($3) was big but bland. But the cheesecake ($3.50) boasted a perfect consistency and taste.

Throughout the visit, service was very attentive. The waitress revealed herself to be an owner, filling in for an absent staffer. She was extremely nice, but kept apologizing for delays. Actually, we had to wait just 15 minutes for our food, which isn't bad at all for a barbecue joint. That's nothing to be sorry about, but she could push the kitchen to make the meal a little more even all-around.