Best Beef Tartare (2010)

Newcomer M. Wells—descended from a famous pig restaurant called Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal—is intent on transgressive cuisine, serving up delicious stuff that's definitely not for folks who crave nonfat yogurt. Among the many permutations of meat on the menu is one that you can get at breakfast: steak tartare, which comes in a submarine-shaped wad of red raw meat held loosely together with a mustard dressing and served with a toasted baguette, salad greens, and mint leaves. The antique diner has been preserved from the days when it was frequented by railroad workers from adjacent Sunnyside Yards.