Top 10 'secret' beaches in Wales

Wales is blessed with a spectacular coastline. In among its famous stretches of sand are some lovely hidden coves and bays. Rob Smith, author of Secret Beaches Wales, picks 10 of the most secluded, and where to eat nearby

Presipe, near Tenby, Pembrokeshire

Presipe, about 20 minutes' walk from Manorbier, is a true gem. Huge crags of fossil-rich red rock jut forth towards the sea to form private coves and slips of sand. This bay is secluded, you are unlikely to find it touched by any footprints other than your own. OS reference: SS 069 970

The pit stop: The Castle Inn, Manorbier, Tenby A mix of surfers, families and locals of all ages makes this cosy little pub buzz with life most days of the week. Try the blanchbait, a plumper alternative to whitebait, deep fried and served with a chunk of bread and salad. Or tuck into a hearty and wholesome curry of Welsh Black beef, lamb or vegetables. •01834 871268

Getting there: Drive south out of Tenby on the A4139. Drive through Penally and Lydstep. One kilometre after Lydstep, turn left on to the B4585 and follow all the way to Manorbier. From the village, follow signs to the beach and park in the beach car park.

Watwick, near Haverfordwest, Pembrokeshire

The small waterfall at the back of this little sandy bay streams on to the sand among shards of purple slate: it's a lovely, quiet place to unwind. The impressive views take in West Angle Bay, Rat Island and the whole length of Milford Haven and Man of War Roads, a 15km ship-teeming passage leading from Dale all the way to Pembroke Dock.OS reference: SM 817 040

The pit stop:Griffin Inn, Dale, Haverfordwest The owners of this waterside pub, Sian and Simon, are incredibly welcoming hosts who pride themselves on their home-grown ingredients and serve some excellent local cask ales. It's an idyllic spot in summer, and also in winter – thanks to warm stoves and open fires. •01646 636227, griffininndale.co.uk

Getting there: From Haverfordwest, drive southwest on the B4327, which will take you all the way to Dale. Park in the main car park on the right when you reach the beach.

Porthmynawyd, near Newgale, Pembrokeshire

Porthmynawyd beach, near Newgale, Pembrokeshire Photograph: Alamy

Surrounded by a lush green valley, this little bay between Solva and Newgale is a must for swimmers. Part of the wider expanse of St Brides Bay, Porthmynawyd is well protected from the slicing currents that run between the mainland and nearby Ramsey Island. Swim through clear channels or explore countless hidden caves filled with fluorescent blue water. After mid-tide, the bay reveals some large patches of soft, wet sand, perfect for building castles and moats, if visiting with children. OS reference: SM 826 229

The pit stop:The Old Pharmacy, Solva In the past, the owners have raised three of their own pigs for use in the restaurant and their intention is to breed chickens and cattle as well. The lobster comes from pots just offshore near the Solva estuary and all the seasonal vegetables are grown on the farms around St Davids. Start with a Solva harbour crab pot, followed with a grilled organic Welsh Black sirloin and rounded off with a selection of Welsh cheeses. •5 Main Street, 01437 720005

Getting there: Drive north out of Newgale on the A487. After about three kilometres, you pass a turn for Pointz Castle Farm on your left. Park in the lay-by just past the turning, again on your left.

Porthmelgan, near Whitesands Bay, Pembrokeshire

Porthmelgan on the Pembrokeshire coast Photograph: Alamy

A short skip from the beautiful-but-busy Whitesands Bay is this tiny beach, tucked just behind the would-be earlobe of St Davids Head. A tapering stream cuts across the sand and sheltered waters create the perfect conditions for paddling, crabbing or bathing on a warm summer's day. Whatever you do, save enough energy for the return route, which takes you to the top of Carn Llidi, a lofty peak studded with 5,000-year-old burial chambers. From here, the panoramic view across to St Davids cathedral and the entire north Pembrokeshire coastline, with its islands and inlets, is truly outstanding. OS reference: SM 728 279

The pit stop:Cwtch, St Davids This fantastic little restaurant has stolen the hearts of the foodies in St Davids and it has the awards to prove it. The lunchtime line-up includes pork hock terrine with apricot and pistachio, and come evening there's 21-day matured, 8oz sirloin with triple-cooked chips or pan-fried Solva sea bass with sauce vierge. It can get busy, so you'll need to book in high season. •22 High Street, St Davids, 01437 720491, cwtchrestaurant.co.uk

Getting there: Briefly follow the A487 heading northeast out of St Davids, then join the B4583 to Whitesands Bay. Follow the signs to Whitesands Bay all the way to the beach and car park.

Porthsychan, near Fishguard, Pembrokeshire

Porthsychan beach, Wales Photograph: Rob Smith

A 10-minute drive from Fishguard and a 20-minute stroll from the impressive Strumble Head will bring you to this quiet cove, which is perfect for a family day out and a genuine refuge from the summer crowds. Swimming can be enjoyed without the fear of strong currents or large swells, and you can spot seals enjoying the bay too. Backed by low headlands and no less than three waterfalls, it is easy to linger at Porthsychan for as long as the sun allows. OS reference: SM 905 407

The pit stop: Links Golf Club Restaurant and Bar, Newport Commanding views over Newport Bay and a menu of local dishes draw in a crowd of regulars. Try the wild venison loin or Jerusalem artichoke risotto. In the evening, sunlight bounces off the sheer cliffs on the opposite side of the bay and streams into the dining room. •Golf Course Road, Newport, 01239 820244, newportlinks.co.uk

Getting there: From Fishguard, drive down to Goodwick and after you pass the harbour, at the roundabout, drive up the hill following the signs for Strumble Head. It's a steep 10-minute route to Strumble Head Lighthouse car park.

Aber Castell, near New Quay, Ceredigion

This is a real smuggler's cove, with two islands to clamber on and numerous hollows along the cliff. One of these, deeper than the rest, has a steady flow of water tumbling from its cavernous roof, seemingly designed for those wishing to rinse themselves of salt and sand. The beach is only 15 minutes' walk from the car park, although the option of a longer return route takes you back through wooded valleys, along riverside pathways and past ferocious waterfalls. OS reference: SN 359 579

The pit stop: The Crown Inn, Llwyndafydd Built in 1799, The Crown Inn is a former Welsh longhouse, with old stone walls and wood-burning stoves. On Sundays there is a carvery, and on a summer's afternoon the pretty garden comes into its own, boasting plenty of tables and a children's play area. •01545 560396, the-crown-inn.moonfruit.com

Getting there: Travelling north-east out of Cardigan, on the A487, in Plwmp, about five kilometres before the turning to New Quay, take the left next to the post office. This will lead you to the village of Llwyndafydd. Entering the village, just before the pub car park, turn left on to a small lane. Follow this all the way to Cwmtydu.

Porth Iago and Porth Ferin, near Aberdaron, Gwynedd

Porth Iago beach, Wales Photograph: Rob Smith

These two coves are separated by a short walk along one of the newest parts of the Wales Coast Path. A quick tumble down a dune from the car park, Porth Iago is the sandiest and has a perfect south-westerly orientation and clear blue waters, which are ideal for swimming and kayaking. Porth Ferin, the more secluded of the two, faces directly north, with wet sand and smooth pebbles competing for space at its lowest tide. Here you'll see evidence of the rusted pulleys and chains that once served to drag in fishermen's boats after a hard day at sea. OS reference: SH 166 315, SH 171 319

The pit stop:The Dining Room, Abersoch A daily changing menu showcases owner Si's expertise in the kitchen – he is known all over the Lleyn Peninsula for his Sc'eggs – a scotch egg made of smoked haddock with a perfectly runny yolk inside. The dark chocolate torte, one of the standout puddings, is made with cream liqueur from a distillery in the Brecon Beacons. Even their vodka, gin and whisky are sourced from Wales.•High Street, Abersoch, 01758 740709, thediningroomabersoch.co.uk

Getting there: Driving out of Aberdaron on the B4413, take the sharp left just before Pen-y-groeslan, signposted Whistling Sands. After 1.5km, turn right at the crossroads, then follow this road for about 2km to a junction. Turn left, then right and, after 500m, left down the farm lane that leads to Porth Iago car park.

Traeth Yr Eifl, near Caernarfon, Gwynedd

Traeth Yr Eifl beach, Wales Photograph: Rob Smith

The best walk to this pleasant pebbly beach comes up over the cliffs that frame Morfa, a National Trust owned nature reserve. As you ascend the headland the imposing half kilometre high Yr Eifl comes into view – the last of Snowdonia's mountains that teeters on the edge of the Irish Sea. The beach itself has plenty of grassy knolls on the surrounding slopes, where you can sunbathe in comfort and take in the dramatic scenery. OS reference: SH 362 468

The pit stop: Y Beuno Hotel and Restaurant, Clynnogfawr This old coaching inn, on a banked slope of the Snowdonia national park, is the ideal location for soaking up views and enjoying the sunsets. The French chef oversees a smallholding to ensure he has the highest quality ingredients. He produces inventive specials, such as beetroot tarte tatin and seared hake with scallops.•01286 660785

Getting there: Head south out of Caernarfon on the A487 and join the A499 in Llawnda. Keep on the A499 and after Clynnog Fawr, two kilometres before the junction with the A4417, take the right turn to Trefor. Follow this for about half a kilometre and turn right on to the small road that doubles back on you – it's just after the bus stop. Follow this to the car park opposite the pier.

Traeth Yr Ora, near Benllech, Anglesey

Traeth Yr Ora beach, Wales Photograph: Rob Smith

Over the years deposits from the river Afon Goch have created a wonderful beach called Traeth yr Ora, just south of the estuary mouth. Enjoy the striking views from sea level or follow a walk that takes in some historical monuments, Dulas Island and the very best of the surrounding countryside. OS reference: SH 489 885

The pit stop:Ship Inn, Red Wharf Bay, Anglesey This cavernous pub is right on the shore of Red Wharf Bay. In the evenings, the dining room upstairs opens its doors and the starched tablecloths and napkins come out for those after a more formal dinner. The kitchen sends out such delights as Welsh ham shank with parsley cream, minted Welsh lamb burger, or the catch of the day. Make sure you sit near a window as the view across the bay in the afternoon sun is one to savour.•01248 852568, shipinnredwharfbay.co.uk

Getting there: Driving north on the A5025 out of Benllech, after about six kilometres and just after the small village of Brynrefail, pull over in the car park next to The Pilot Boat Inn. You should go in for a drink or a snack before or after your visit to the beach, by way of payment for the parking.

The northernmost beaches, Anglesey

Porth Llanlleiana bay, Anglesey. Photograph: Alamy

Strung like beads across Anglesey's northern coastline, between Cemaes Bay and Bull Bay, are three wonderfully secluded beaches that can only be accessed via the coastal path. Porth Llanlleiana, the most northerly beach in Wales, is a perfectly formed cove of small pebbles, which are comfortable underfoot and smooth enough for sunbathing. Hell's Mouth is no larger than a tennis court and provides gentle access to the Irish Sea (although be aware of strong currents). A small area of shingle, shiny and warm in the sun, is not the only place to lounge and play. The gently undulating headlands are covered in a blanket of long grass, making picnicking and sunbathing agreeable throughout the day. Porth Wen is a wide inlet with several accessible beach areas. It's well known by local fishermen but not really on the tourist map and, being a bit of a walk from the nearest car park, you'll most probably be one of the only ones sunbathing or swimming. OS references: SH 387 950, SH 393 948, SH 402 944

The pit stop:The Stag, Cemaes Bay The Stag has a fantastic reputation in the area for freshly cooked food, served in generous portions, at very reasonable prices. A Sunday roast topped with a soup bowl-sized Yorkshire pudding, a hearty ploughman's with ham from the local butcher, and a steak and ale pie that some will cross the island for, are all under a tenner. You'll find a friendly crowd of locals and walkers.•01407 711018

Getting there: Head east on the A5025, go straight over at the roundabout in Cemaes. Look for the left turning that is signposted Gadlys Country Hotel and 4th Century Church. Follow this lane until you reach the T-junction, then go right. After a couple of hundred metres, take the left fork and follow to the end, where you should park. For a second car park option, go past the first car park's turning. After 2km, look for the lay-by entrance on your left, which is just after the crest of a small hill.

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