Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area MORE INFO >>>

Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com. This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.

Description

A tall, slender tower in a scenic location with good climbing and a tiny summit make for a great route. Start low on the NE side and climb up and right, slowly circling around to the West side to a belay. Belay here to avoid rope drag or, with a long rope, continue up to the top.

Protection

Mostly bolted, but up high (at the crux) it helps to place a nut or two to reduce the slight runout.

Location

Walk down into the main canyon from the parking area. There will be 2 tall towers on the right. The upper one is Proto-pipe (it looks just like one) and the lower one is the Totem Pole.

Need a #4 nut to protect the top portion of the 2nd pitch. There was a little bushwackin' but the approach was only 15 minutes from vehicle. Directions to Lower Devil Climbing area: From US 60, exit south on Oak Flat Road Campground road, travel 1.3 miles on paved road, take left on a gravel road. Drive about 2 miles on gravel road, at the bottom of the meadow, take a left at the old windmill (still there as of 01/17/09). Drive appx 1 mile to the road end. (Gravel road is rough, high clearence 4 wheel drive recommended!)

Most of the climbing is straightforward - maybe 5.9. The moves after the final bolt feel 10 to 10+. A medium stopper works well to protect the crux and I a found a bomber black alien placement after the crux.

Marcy and I took a pair of clippers with us on the approach trail and pruned back the vegetation, so the climb is much easier to get to now. Just go to the rock gully at the edge of the canyon, turn right, and follow the cairns toward the pole.

What a blast. The summit, the view. Just about perfect. Did it as one pitch on my 70. and one rap to ground no problem. For me the crux below the first belay felt 10d? The top crux felt 10-. Plenty of places for pro above the last bolt.

I was asked to do a quick trip report for this route because one of our friends took a pretty sweet fall and walked away!

When Austin was attempting an on-site ascent of the original Totem Route, he took a fairly substantial fall, and subsequent swing, of about 30 feet. Austin was pretty much at the 4th bolt, and stopped falling well below the second bolt on the route! It was a pretty scary experience for everyone because as he was falling, his rope ended up catching on a sharp flake or rock, which severed the outer sheathing completely, and also destroyed a few of the core strands which give the rope it's strength. His fall was stopped about 8 feet above the deck, so close I was able to reach up and touch his foot while standing on the ground.

This was his rope after the fall. You can still see the rope where it went through the sharp flake at the top of the image.

This was his rope after the fall. You can still see the rope where it went through the sharp flake at the top of the image.

This is a pic of Austin at the bottom after he was lowered to the ground. The green/blue portion of the rope is the protective sheathing, and the white strands are the dynamic core that gives the rope its strength.

This is a pic of Austin at the bottom after he was lowered to the ground. The green/blue portion of the rope is the protective sheathing, and the white strands are the dynamic core that gives the rope its strength.

To his credit, Austin roped up again (ON A DIFFERENT ROPE) and was able to make a clean ascent on his second try!

Does anyone know if any flakes have popped off near the top? The first few moves past the chains felt a little stout, looks like fresh rock. I would say the first few moves past the chains goes at a 10+

Brent - It's quite possible that some rock has broken off. There is definitely a a move or two between the first and second bolts that had my attention. I recall placing a small alien (blue, maybe) near the arete the first time I lead it.

If you mean leaving your vehicle just before the big hill on the way in, I'd say this will add about 10-15 minutes to get to the small pullout for Hackberry plus whatever time to get to your desired area from there. It's gorgeous out there now with all the recent rain.

would it be reasonably safe to lead this with just the bolts and no placed pro? how bad would the runout be? im hoping to climb it Friday morning, if yall let me know i will be forever greatful thanks :)

Jordan, I'd be hesitant to lead it without a piece above the last bolt, since there's the potential to fall onto a ledge if you blow the crux. Just buy or borrow a #4 BD nut and that's all you should need. Also, the start of this route is not obvious. The first bolt is something like 20-25 feet up (on 5.6-5.7 ground) and you can't really see the 2nd bolt until you're right on top of it.