Author
Topic: Lr32 system and rail (Read 7739 times)

Hello,Just wondering what your thoughts are on the lr32 system with guide rail? Is it Worth the money? Does it save you time and is it accurate? I’m doing more and more alcove units with adjustable shelving and hoping to speed the process up somewhat.Many thanks,Louis

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Outside of the patience needed to overcome the learning curve, the main emphasis of the system is that it is not confined to just making shelf pin holes. It is set up to accurately place European hinges and place drawer slides.

Therefore, if your intent is to solely drill shelf pin holes in a fixed position, one of the readily available shelf pin jigs would serve your needs.

A secondary concern might be that the system is metric based and this might also add to learning time as well require some metric measuring items. However, essentially it is a clever logical system that once learned is a worthy addition to any shop even those where the use might be limited.

On a personal note, I had a good experience in the learning mode watching videos by erock of the Poplar Shop.

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Clark Fork

"A lot of people are afraid of heights. Not me, I'm afraid of widths." Stephen Wright

"straight, smooth and square" Mr. Russell, first day high school shop class-1954

" What's the good of it?" My Sainted Grandmother

"You can't be too rich, too thin or have too many clamps." After my introduction to pocket joinery and now the MFT work process

"Don't make something unless it is both made necessary and useful; but if it is both necessary and useful, don't hesitate to make it beautiful." -- Shaker dictum

After an initial learning curve (to wrap your head around the different options on how to align it to your workpiece) the LR32 is quick to use and relieable in giving repeatable results.

Can also be easily extended to other uses: get a 20mm cutter to make your own MFT tops, as-is as a story stick with a 32mm grid (for other tools, like a domino), route hidden (end(s) closed) grooves/dados/rebates/slots (limiting the sled movement with anti kickback stops for the TS, or an anything else that goes into the t-slot and can be locked in place, in case you need to go out of the 32mm grid the holey rail provides), ...

I have an LR32 and as others have stated, there is a learning curve. But once you get it figured out it is great. I made a large built in book case for my niece that she uses as a pantry. For that project is was simply fantastic for drilling the shelf pin holes.

For me it’s not an “every project tool” but when I need it I am glad I own it.

Another vote for Festool’s LR32 System...Worth the investment - Especially if you’re making more than 1-2 cabinets.As said, there is a learning curve... But it’s interesting... And not too “steep”.I use it and my OF 1400 router to make cabinets.Extremely accurate. Repeatable. And quick... Once you get the system down.

Doing one or two cabinets does take some time. But when I do a lot of cabinets say 3 + it really shines.

You do have to be accurate in cutting your cabinet sides. They have to be dead nuts on 32mm. They can be a tad shorter and use a small filler piece to take up the slack. Be sure to mark which is the top when using a filler. Otherwise the holes wont match.

I used mine last weekend. I rarely use it, so when I do I have to watch a video to remind me of the things that I forgot. I got that Zen feeling when the holes were so pretty and perfect . It is a step up from the cheaper offerings from other manufacturers but is a step below multi spindle boring machines.

With regards to the n*32mm length requirement for rail placement - I thought of trying threaded dogs such as rail dogs or some other short dogs to center rails on workpieces that aren't cut into 32mm increments. While this sounds good in theory, I haven't tried this yet, so I don't know how well it works in reality.

I like the system. I rarely make cabinets but have no difficulty cranking them out as needed with the LR32. So even with my limited need, I still value having the LR32 for placing shelf pin holes and accurately boring for hinges.

Reading the previous replies though, I think I’m the odd man out when it comes to ensuring that the cabinet side panel heights are multiples of 32mm. I see very little advantage in doing so other than taking some thought out of boring the holes. So long as you label your panels’ tops and bottoms and are consistent with registering the LR32 off of either the top or bottoms of all panels, the height of the panel can be anything you’d like so long as your rail is long enough.

If I’m custom making cabinets, it’s because I’m building out a weird space where the measurements are going to be non-standard. I’d guess the guys that like their panels being multiples of 32 mm are building out lots of kitchens worth of cabinets.

So the short of it seems to me that whether you’re more aiming for the speed and ease of lots of cabinet production or the occasional one off custom fit job, there is a lot of value in the LR32.

Reading the previous replies though, I think I’m the odd man out when it comes to ensuring that the cabinet side panel heights are multiples of 32mm. I see very little advantage in doing so other than taking some thought out of boring the holes. So long as you label your panels’ tops and bottoms and are consistent with registering the LR32 off of either the top or bottoms of all panels, the height of the panel can be anything you’d like so long as your rail is long enough.

That exactly my experience. I registered everything on the top of the panel and it came out fine.

Reading the previous replies though, I think I’m the odd man out when it comes to ensuring that the cabinet side panel heights are multiples of 32mm. I see very little advantage in doing so other than taking some thought out of boring the holes. So long as you label your panels’ tops and bottoms and are consistent with registering the LR32 off of either the top or bottoms of all panels, the height of the panel can be anything you’d like so long as your rail is long enough.