First the power to the machine should be off.Next remove the wires on the heater element.Set the meter to "ohms" (#8 on it's side).Place leads on the element connections that you just removed the wires from.The reading should go up, if no movement, element is open and needs replacing.This also applies to the thermostat.

Any of the clixons mounted on the back around the heater are subject to be open and that would kill the heater. The most likely dude to blow is mounted on top of the heater chamber. This puppy will die pretty dang quick if the vent pipe is stopped up or kinked and thus not allowing for proper airflow.The replacement part comes with both the limits that mount on the heater chamber. So if the heater is ok then that is where I would start. the clixons on the blower housing judge air temp and the white skinny thang is ok because if it was bad the dryer would not run.Here is how it works. When you put the dryer in the heat mode and all is kosher. the heating element comes on. The clixon mounted on the blower housing judges the temp of the air. It regulates the heat continuously during the drying cycle. It almost NEVER fails. Next to it is a skinny white fuse that is tied into the door switch. if the lint buildup inside the dryer filter housing blocks the flow this one will melt and kill the power to the motor. The cent switch which carrys the heater load will shut down and kill the heater. if the dryer is running then I would not bother to check that one. On the bottom of the heater chamber is 2 wires going to the heater and just above that is a 250 degree limit. It has a partner in crime above it (smaller) that blows at 300 f. that is the one you will find open 99% of the time. Before you make any attemp to replace the limit be sure you clear out any lint and other obstacles blocking the airflow.

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