Don't Buy This Blade

I have a lot of plywood to cut for my bookcase project, so I thought I'd
try this blade. For $10, I didn't really expect much, but I figured I'd
give it a shot. Never tried a 200 tooth blade before. More is better,
right?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Teeth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698
I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test cuts
on a piece of 3/4 plywood to have something to compare the Avanti to. An
easy push through the blade and nice clean cut.
Then I tried the Avanti. Within the first couple of inches, it was apparent
that I'll have to take numerous breaks and even maybe a nap or two once I
start my project. The amount of effort required to get through 12" of 3/4"
plywood was astounding. I've got over 100' to finish cut on the table saw.
I'm tired just thinking about using that blade.
What about the quality of the cut, you ask? It sucks.
I don't know if this image is clear enough, but the top piece is the
Diablo cut, the bottom is the Avanti.

I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!
Good news is you can return pretty much anything to home depot.
I tried one of those a while back and may even have posted a warning
about it.
For me, it wasn't so much the quality of cut but because the blade is so
thin, it bends and starts to curve, giving you a crooked cut that is
very hard to control.
In any case, that second blade you showed will probably do fine.
I use a thin-kerf cross cut blade that I got on sale for 40 bucks.
http://www.rockler.com/irwin-marples-10-saw-blade-80t-hi-atb
I got it to cut bamboo plywood which is notoriously difficult to cross
cut. This blade did the best on it and makes perfect cuts in plywood.
It looks similar to yours.

I ended up having a chance to try the 84 tooth non-ferrous blade. (Dinner
wasn't ready yet.)
The 40 tooth General Purpose Diablo still beat it quality wise. Cut effort
was similar. Just to be sure it wasn't some other factor, I put the 40 tooth
back on and did one last cut. It's definitely the best of the three.
Should I trust this $40 deal?
https://www.ebay.com/i/400561585359?chn=ps&dispctrl=1

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test
cuts

I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!

If it's new, probably.
One caveat I forgot to mention, though.
I used blade stabilizers, as I do with any thin kerf blade. Thin kerf
blades can and do bend enough to adversely affect the accuracy of cuts.
I would normally never buy a thin kerf blade since my table saw has
plenty of horse power. But in this case, as I mentioned, I was looking
for a blade with very sharp, very pointy outer teeth. The Marples fit
the bill.
I still use it for the occasional crosscutting on the TS. I has a job
where I needed to cut up about 22 sheets of plywood and didn't want to
use a $100 blade to do it, so I threw the Marples on and was very
pleased with the ease and cleanness of the cut. It was effortless and
didn't have a lot of chip out.

I had a fairly new 40 tooth Diablo on the table saw so I made a few test

I wish you would've asked about that blade, first!

Whatever's cheap. They're not rocket science.

Yes. But, you'll need a new ZCI for the different kerf anyway.
They are easy to make and you should have one for each thickness blade
if you really want to take advantage of what a ZCI can do (prevent
tearout).
While we're on the subject, the blade stabilizers will help to keep the
slot in the ZCI tight against the blade. When the blade can wobble, it
will widen the slot allowing tearout.

It's going to do a lot more than widen it.
It's going to move it over the width of the stabilizer, which is
probably 1/8".
So you now have a slot 1/8" wider than your blade which negates the
benefits of a ZCI on the motor side.
If you do all your cutting on the blade side it won't make a difference
to the quality of the cut. But if you cut on the motor side, you'll get
some tearout.

Only if you put the stabilizer on the wrong side of the blade -- and if you do, you've *also*
changed the distance from the blade to the rip fence.
If you put the stabilizer where it belongs, between the blade and the arbor nut, there's no
impact on the ZCI as long as you continue to use thin-kerf blades.

Whaaaaaaaaat? :-). Do all your cutting on the blade side? Maybe you
meant nut side.
But, regardless of where the gap is at you are likely to need/use the
pieces from both sides of the cut. So the usable scrap will possibly have
some splintering.
AND, yes using the double set stabilizer will widen the slot.

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