3 piece sectional bookcase (cherry)

I needed some new office furniture—especially a bookcase for my journals and books. I made this sectional bookacase from cherry ply and solid faceframes. The doors were supposed to be raised panels, but due to a miscalculation and an error (I cut it rather tight on the board feet calculation and cut list), I ran low on material and didn’t want to make another trip to the lumber yard. I resawed what I had and made bookmatched panels for the doors and actually like the result better. Finish is General Finishes Seal-a-cell and topcoated with their Arm-R-Seal.

These are great looking book cases GSY. The cherry makes for a nice color.

How did you resaw your boards for the doors? What type of a fence did you use? I have tried once or twice on a bandsaw, but can not get the board to come out even. The table saw will sometimes do the job, but it will be scorched and wastes a lot of material with its kerf.

Drew: The design was loosely based on a bookcase I saw in a magazine. I decided to make three of them, added cabinet doors to two of them, and added lighting at the tops, and changed the moulding details. Unfortunately, my simple pencil and paper method of calculating board feet and making cut lists failed me as I designed on the fly. Or perhaps designing on the fly was the problem…..

Bill: I used my bandsaw to resaw the boards from 3/4 to about 3/8, then planed and sanded to 1/4. I put a riser block on my Delta 14” and use a Timberwolf 1/2 inch blade to resaw. My bandsaw has a Kreg fence (Delta kindly didn’t include one) to which I attached a tall secondary fence to resaw with. I don’t use one of those resaw attachment thingys…I just make sure the blade is tracking well, adjust the fence for drift, and make sure it is square to the blade. Featherboards keep the work tight to the fence. The thinnest I’ve done with this is 1/8” and got good uniform slices that clean up nicely in the drum sander.