anyways.
I worked on a few different ideas of 'mechanical' switches or methods to trigger latching/momentary switches when I got those illuminated switches a while back..and then again when I started working on 'cores' and all components secure to it (ie: Easterns x-mas gift/x-core..integrated switch)

(Im sure you've seen a few here and there..but I dont think these plunger style ones ever)..

I suppose it depends on your specific application/project but (again) the idea is sound/stable..

yanking the pic I made in Ace's Obi run thread..

for myself,.. these were to serve several purposes.. solvable by either changing the length of the outer threaded sleeve, the length of the 'plunger'...or both. =)

a shorter length threaded outer sleeve lets you thread directly into the hilt...(for switches that are very close to the top of the hilt)

a longer length threaded outer sleeve lets me thread into the hilt..but ALSO my core (or delrin disk..etc)
when I do this..I need a longer plunger end as the switch is usually set deeper and not at the top by hilt/hole.

these are all garage/hacked, home machined..etc Im sure if Ace tackled this, they would turn out much nicer,,and the fit and finish of course would be top notch. (even maybe a lip or something to stop screwing all the way in)

only con I have found so far is its a bit difficult to screw in the threaded sleeve sometimes.. (you need to tape up some needle nose pliers and get to turnin'!) lol

(this is actually how I am planning on finishing my own personal Obi hilt using the bike vale and red button as my switches) (one of these days, right?)

ok just so there is some Proof in the puddin',..another proof of concept..(PoC)

some pics:

part(s) breakdown:

(on top of some TCSS boxes..with some brass and aluminum strips I cut out..same thickness..they turned out good..need to sand edges..and buff)

this is NOT fully screwed in.. but it is also a longer sleeve version.. cut the sleeve in half..

and you can even counter sink/bore the switch end to get it lower/closer to the hilt if you wanted.

see how it works/side view:

shorter plunger see how it goes into hilt to trigger your switch.. of course these are changeable to any length to fit the depth needed.

and not-engaged:

I have two more that are going to go on top of one of these control box.so the switches are on top of the 'cover' and spring like this.

was going to post this in the 'idea thread'.. but figured just make its own thread for it..

another step in my OBI TPM saga.. lol

trying to keep the size as accurate as 'I' can, and still having it be somewhat MHS based at the core...
I was stuck on finding out a way to use the stock switches as real, functioning switches for my hilt.

(Ive always been keen on the all-in-one core ideas... but have the switches on/in the core and some sort of cap/plunger on the outside has always been a PITA for me... here and there a few ideas have came out/been used)

for the OBI.. when everything was done,.. the switch holes would go (more or less) at the same exact level of the MHS heatsink.. so I need to adjust that a bit.. and also find a way to mount some switches in that area..

I had mulled over Madcows switch approach. but just wasnt a good fit..

so I came up with a custom, round PCB, that mounts to the underside of the heatsink..and is secured using the same nylon screws that hold our luxeon star pcbs. (MHS hack!)

here is my prototype..

the bike valve switch will have an SMD led in it.. (like they normally do).. to light up the purple gem in the valve end. I just didnt put it back in yet..from doing the momentary mod to the switch (latching by default)

I also didnt clip the extra leads from the switches yet.. but I believe the idea is sound.. and can open up the doors for others to use the same idea/approach.. (nned to mount a unique switch?.. make a pcb for it!)

I posted a tut on how to etch your own pcbs..etc.. using your home laser printer and photopaper..

been playing around with a few ideas over the years.. and have worked on a few control box ideas/projects as well...

this one is based off an MHS control box.. with some 'modifications'

things to note:

*has two switches (main and aux) in it.. (one the 'side' of the box.. with custom switches and switch caps/stems
*custom PCB was created for them to mounted, to and mounted to the inside of the box.
*has a 1.3mm recharge port in it
* has custom smd led bar graph (custom made pcb for this as well)

pretty has everything a hilt needs, all located in the......... 'control box'

posting my mock up pics... if things work out good.. (which it look sot be great even).. I'll break it down again.. re-fine...and buff/polish and powder coat for the finished product.

hopefully this gives some ideas for everyone else... make things work for you!.. make what you need...

lets begin:

1.) take your favorite drawing app and make a PCB design.. no special tools.. draw BLACK lines/traces and pads where you want 'copper' to be..
get your copper clad board/section..

2.) print out image on glossy photo paper.... iron/transfer image/toner to the copper board.. rinse under water to remove paper.. soak in etchant to remove exposed copper:

3.) after exposed copper is gone.... use a q-tip and some mail polish remover to remove the toner from the pcb... (revealing the copper/pcb under neath)

***(all this above has been posted many times before.. and shame on you for not trying it!... this could have saved your ass in that 'one' project!) =)

4.) mounted my modified switches to their PCB.. (these have the threaded tops on them for external switch caps to be used form outside the hilt.. keeping the main core/chassis/box internals standalone)
several solder pads depending on the need/space available

5.) mounted (mocked up) in the control box:

6.) (although it looks 'off' its really just the pic.. things line up great!)
side view of holes and where the switch tops are

7.) top (custom) pcb made..for the led bar graph.. (this posed a problem due to space.. and the fact that I wanted each led to be addressable for either all direct drive..'or' for CF led.txt sequence..etc.. not to mention trying to do double sided board without through hole plating.. (making my own)..

again.. space was concern.. (both sides)

I think an led (possible two) got ruined by heat? or something.. but Im going to replace them real quick. (as they only light up partially)

in the end it will be black box.. aluminum top plate and aluminum switches on the side of the box.

the top 'smd led bra graph' pcb/portion

this is where each resistors goes: (bottom of board)

quick mock up:
(again the switch pcb is in place already.. the custom pcb's are almost forming a box to support each other

used 1206 resistors.. all I had at the time.. (yesterday my 0603's came.. had I had those in my plannign stage..I think everything might have been topside mounted....oh well v2 I guess..lol..this is my PoC)

still not quite sure how/where to tap the V++ to.. I have a few ideas...not a big deal though any place will work)

quick test of being lit up.. (had to replace 2 leds as I think they were 'damaged' by initial placement? maybe soldering too hot? different bin? one was of color.. when lit up bright..then gradually died out after a few seconds)..anyways replaced them

2 x green
2 x yellow
3 x red

each resistored, each individually addressable... (so can be direct driven, used with CF, or as PLI) =)

quick mock up of the side/switch PCB inside the box. and the switches/caps/stems I made for them.. (still need to be shortened a bit..but they are close enough to work and show the effect/style)

more pics of the 'switch caps/stems'

the pcb's took about 30 minutes total to make.. (probably another 15 prior on trial and error on printing out paper copies and doing size checks)

now that I feel the idea is 'sound' I'll go back and plan it out a bit better.. (this is supposed to still have recharge port added..but Im not sure after implementing things this far it will make the cut)

time to break it down.. pc the control box BLACK..

buff/polish the 'switches'...

and complete the 'top'.. which is an already sized aluminum strip that sits flush like any normal 'card stock'

there is NOW window cut/milled out of it yet through for the bar graph.. =(

So I have been working on & off on an expanding saber..similar to the those hilts that have the exposable crystal chambers/core...etc

except this idea is NOT to reveal anything.. it is a step to make a more 'functional' (moving) type saber.. allowing for maybe smaller footprint (and concealment) into an expandable, longer hilt when needed/being used.

this is NOT finished.. and for those of you who have a problem with projects being posted while NOT completed.. simply fuck off.

Its in the R&D forum.. and I see people who do placeholder posts all the time.. so if you havent done anything like the above...then speak out.

anyways.. while developing/working on this.. I discovered several paths this could take.. and I also would like to get soem feedback on areas I am un-clear on how to proceed.

This is a long post.. outlining several of the ideas or variations that could be done.. and Im a long winded guy.. again.. if this a problem for you..

ALT + [F4] is a good choice for you right now.

Project goals/tasks or ideas that needed to be accepted or thrown out. (no order)..and to keep ideas out, posted for me to reflect on.

1.) smallest footprint when 'closed'..... (good idea.. nice small footprint).. but when open..what are you 'left' with as a saber?
grips both top and bottom? the extension piece?

2.) when open? form vs function... the function is there.. no doubt.. but when trying to keep/adhere to certain restrictions (like #1 above)..as well as make it visually pleasing.. it somewhat limits normal thinking/ideas.

3.) when closed..how to lock?
* I have a few locking ideas..each fairly unique..
* a outward 'clasp' (so to speak) that locks the top portion down/closed
* a 'threaded' end that is similar to sloth's reveal hilt.. the top section slides down..and can be turned/screwed into the bottom section.. (unscrew it expands..etc)
* a ballbearing/spring type lock.. Madcow used one on his hilts...as well as in use all over the world

4.) when open..how to keep from spinning/rotating.
* as of now..this doesnt need to be implemented.. BUT.. I have thought it out.. (will post pics/drawings really).. and is similiar to the sliding 'rail' chassis system I had been messing with a while back..and should work easy enough..

5.) movement/functionality
* how much movement is enough? or not enough?

there is a 3 way approach to the movement..

you slide the TOP section
you slide both 'core' * top sections
you secure top half..and make the 'code' slide (making the top section move as well of course)

so there is room for several variants..with different movement here as well..

to explain the parts/mechanics:

required:

2 x double male threaded connector (old style ones need to be modified... new version will need a custom part sleeve/shim (Super Mario Bros. Tunnel) for them to be compatible... I have used one of each for this demo/display)

a custom OD section of tubing (your sliding 'core').. with a LIP on the end..the same OD as a heatsink

1 x 1.25 OD spring (length to fit your project travel)

the rest of the MHS parts you use is up to you..and how much TRAVEL you want..or how you 'pull it all together'.. this is just the mechanics of getting an expandable hilt going..

this is (was) a WIP.. and if you dont like.. fuck off.

re-cap:
if you dont like un-completed projects...dont have anything constructive to say.. move along. Im sure there is a conversions section somewhere.

could be a cool effect for a staff too.. double ended, expanding sides/pop-outs..

**(taking pics in a little bit)..

pic of the part(s) used.. you can see BOTH of the double ended male threaded connectors in use here..

the one with the threads left on was/is on purpose to try a certain 'locking approach'
if not using that route for locking..the threads would be turned down/off to mirror the other adapter/collar

you can see the collar/sleeve fix I had to make for the the lack of OG adapter part..and to be used with the new ID ones. (looks like a Super Mario bros. tunnel)..it slides inside the adapter (new version style)

and would look great for dressing a choke to a regular MHS part normally..not in conjunction with this sliding/expanding project

here it is one of the possible 'closed' states: (in this version since BOTH pieces have the external collars... the threads would be turned down.. to match the top collar..)

a better look at the 'core' (sliding system)

using the adapter..and leaving a lip on the core/tube..
I can screw it right into any MHS male part.. and effectively have a 'plunger' now.. the core tube will NOT come out. (not does it spin either surprisingly)

please excuse the super long-ness.. I have NOT committed to cutting the core/tube yet, until I am SURE on the levels of expansion and the locking portion of this project

rant:
(the longer the MHS part..the more travel, you can obviously get.... however that doesnt leave much for practicality in the visuals or the design.. since you dont really want a SUPER long, goose necked choke/core.. a nice 3 inches looks good visually ... but you also want the smallest footprint you can do when the saber is closed...unless its more for a quick effect or on a staff or something.... so that means shorter MHS parts.. and back to less travel then... however you can make both the top section..and the middle/core tube BOTH expand while holding the grip section) so you need to play with balance & direction a bit.

Locking approach #1:

forget the bottom 'collar'.. I have an internal 'ring' that supports the core/tube still.. but I leave the threads on the top collar..
collapse..and then spin the handle portion to lock into place?

un-screw...pop:

LOTS of paths I can take here.. with locking (hard part).. and choosing the expansion path more than one section expanding? or just one?..etc

cold here, not to mention time is absent alot these days... so like the bearing chassis pommel lock mod...figured Id just share what I have.. maybe it will help someone else.. (not to mention this one I could use some ideas on)

Cons:
mod'ing the speaker holder is PITA.. because the stock speaker OD is big.. I ruined s peaker mounted.. and that one pictured 'was ruined' but salvaged..lmao

in certain pommels, it wont work. (to close to end for insert)

not a lot of resonance

Together view: (not in pommel...but a possible end result could be)

Here is I have my 'core' (main tube) that can hold soundboard & batteries.. the top portion is just added from another past project.. (but is one possibility)..

that top part also have a bearing in it.. and can 'spin'

The 'main' part..(together)

The main part(s) (what is consists of)
turned 'stem' to fit bearing.. (can see similar in background)

Bearing got on stem..

I cut a piece of some external threaded tubing I had NPT 27 tpi I think?.. hollow..

that is actually press fit on there..and is not coming off.. but could be glued just as well little dab only..

it helps keep the bearing in/down... and the threaded part is used to secure the back of the MHS speaker mount.. (NPT 27 tpi tap...I'll have to look up exact size off hand)

the MHS speaker mount is turned to OD that fits INSIDE the pommel ID...easier to just bore out the pommel a bit though to be honest..save your speaker mounts from being wasted..lol.. hard to leave a 'wall' to snap the speaker into

there is a 'ring' with the ID of the bearing OD.. and the OD of a pommel ID

this slides over everything (stem, bearing, NPT secured threaded end)..and has hole tapped so set screw locks ring to bearing..

now you have your free spinning 'ring' that the pommel makes contact with..leaving the speaker/mount secure/non-moving

you get this:

the speaker side.. (see how its threaded through)... maybe dab of glue too?

alternate pommel (still works)

off-topic:
Here is the top portion.. (although a bit off topic)..notice similar 'stem/bearing' system..

but this time a top part goes over the bearing.. (set screw secured to bearing)..

and it spins the crystal, etc..

back on topic:

ok..so you take the whole thing..after you secure the 'bearing mount' to your core or chassis...etc..

and it slides into your pommel.

you can see the little drilled & tapped hole in the pommel.. un-obtrusive.. and it secure the pommel to the 'core'..make sure you secure it to the 'free spinning ring'.. and not the speaker mount..

side view:

feed back always appreciated,..

Im sure it can be improved upon...so thats why I shared it..LOL

maybe not for every build..but if the case calls for it..here is one solution to apply.

ok..so this has been on the burner.. for....well for a long time actually.. I sorted started it when I saw Obi-Dar posted his build start...

it was shelved.. as I didnt care for the route I was taking at that moment....

anyways did some more work on it.. and here is where I am at.. figured Id get some feedback..

I think it looks a bit 'weird' to me because there are no cut-outs in the shroud/emitter yet..(Im hoping thats all it is!..lol)

as far as being an 'exact dup' in dimensions.. its of course not.. (its no ACE OBI TPM to be sure, spot on with awesome machining) .. 'but'..its not that far off from the dimensions I got on-line.... the most notable place is the main hilt 'OD'.. which will mostly be cut away so I dont think it will have that much effect on the final look... every thing else is exact or a not 'too bad'...

overall length is over 11".. but little under 11.5 if I recall..

feedback is appreciated of course. things/areas to work on.. (although its not complete of course).. or things that should be re-done perhaps?

Thanks.

(Im no photographer!)

The parts used:

1 x Ace Obi TPM pommel
2 x 1.5 sink tube adapters (turned down to be 1.39 OD and faced to be roughly over 1")
1 x 1.25 'core' aluminum tube so it has a 1.25 choke section (slightly modified to meet ID of one of the adapters I used)
1 x MHS BH #3 turned down to be 1.39 OD)
1 x custom hilt shroud ID bored to 1.39...OD to match the TPM as best I could..
1 x custom shroud ring/support for the top end which has a bit larger OD and design
1 x custom emitter shroud ID bored to 1.39 (OD has a bit of a lip/larger OD than the rest for the 'top ring")
1 x custom 'ring' taking a cue from Randy/Obi-Dar's build of course.. (and because I fubar'd my 1 piece attempt the first go-around) (DOH!) :dft001:

All parts

Rings attached:

Top section:

Side:

Angle:

Full:

Last:

The OD of the ring needs to be opened up to 1" to accept a blade still.. but thats really only about 10 minutes of work to do..

if it passes the test(s).. then I'll work on the shrouds or something.. wire it up.. and see what board it gets (if any)..

if it goes over well.. I always have the 'rule of two' for builds.. and there is parts to make another

battery/sound/speaker bucket:
*size constraints? stuffed 2xAA sized batts and a US2.5 in there.. probably some room for wires..not much else? (not sure of CF would fit due to height.. maybe different battery solution?)
*make both speaker only bucket and attach battery/sound board to 'rods'? or other area? and the speaker/battery/sound bucket? or just the former/later? (maybe milling out some grooves in the bucket will help with space a bit?

heatisnk/led bucket:
*right now the led/heatisnk is part of the 'core'.. should it not be? shoudl there be an alternate 'modular' section you can choose as an 'end cap' to the core?..and then you just run wires from core to led, like in any other normal build?.. of course you would have to choose to either lock/secure the core using the speaker mount end 9liek in normal MHS builds using a pommel speaker mount...or an end cap/section that has the OD of the heatisnk..and using that approach to locking/securing the core to the hilt?

Eastern will be giving a review of his as well when he gets some time to play with it.... maybe covering some of the topics above .

Ive been kicking around this idea for a bit..and actually got started working a few POC's..

however I just dont think they will get the fit or finish or really the customization and coolness 'reached' if these are done by myself.. they need Tims new CNC stuff or ACe..somebody to make them 'top notch'..

such as taper or other mill work..

I think I can only do a few 'styles' with my tools.

anyways.. I tried to explain it to Tim.. but a picture is better..

it follows sorta the same principle as the trim rings do.. the ID is just bit enough to go around the male threads..but not big enough to go around the OD of the MHS parts.. (hence being locked/sandwiched down by the two parts)

well instead of a 'ring' how more of a sleeve.. for decoration.. longer/bigger bezels for switches.. or cut outs for switches..
use them at top or bottom (pommel side)..and pretty much reversible.. could be purely cosmetic.. or functional..

I feel they are quality additions, that do NOT take away from MHS, utilize its parts still along with custom parts and customization to make things unique, adding depth and personal choice/taste

I also think these are mods that will add to your final price point when selling.. as they are 'new ideas' will havent 'caught on' yet, and many of can do here.. or have done without it taxing anyones wallet..

with Tims new CNC engraving and mill work.. these accent trim parts and shrouds should be getting some special treatment!

so I need to grab another off the bench and mod it again.... goes to show.. do NOT PUSH the amount you can turn down an MHS part! (especially by the threads!)

anyways.. figured Id post a few pics.. and what NOT to do to your MHS parts! LOL.

before I messed up the 3" extension:

Broken piece in place:

all three mod'd BH's with custom shrouds (3 so far...and I think last..I have 3 'longer' versions that are similar to a 'graflex' top in length (not quite) that go over not only the BH's..but part of the main body as well..... too bad it'll be seen as a rip of Slothfurnace graflex build that uses it...cause the firstone is very similar.

some other junk too.. my first red/sith build (bottom)

and an attempt to make a 'clean'.. future'ish saber.. very clean..nothing but liquid chrome 'look'.. (working on the MC type buttons..but a bit more 'recessed'

and my mistake: =(

any thoughts or ides on the trigger/guard is appreciated.. Im really NOT digging using plastic or salvaged from a toy.... but not sure what else?