Renewing an ancient monastic brewing tradition, the Benedictines of Saint Wandrille in Normandy have launched a new beer conceived and produced at the abbey.

"Cervisia humolone," explains Brother Matthew, 31, pronouncing the Latin name for a "hop beer." Yet, after completing his engineering studies in Lille, he never dreamed that he would soon become an expert in malting, brewing and extraction, while singing laudes, sexte and vespers in Gregorian chant at the Benedictine community at Saint-Wandrille de Fontenelle, between Rouen and Le Havre, which he joined four years ago.

In August 2014, however, Abbot Jean-Charles Nault designated Brother Matthew and Brother Christian, 70, to develop a "Saint Wandrille beer" after the failure of a microfilming and document scanning business forced the community to look for new sources of revenue.

The brothers' pride

As a result, the two monks took up studies at the agricultural high school in Douai and at the French Brewery Museum at Saint-Nicolas-de-Port in the Meurthe-et-Moselle region as well as meeting with several master brewers.

"From the outset, the project generated enthusiasm and brought the community together," emphasizes Fr Nault, 46, a priest at Saint-Wandrille since 2009.

"It was the first time that we worked together so closely," he says, adding that he "marvels" at the creativity and talents of each one.

A good number of monks, among the thirty living in the community, have combined their efforts for the project. There is a small committee who help refine the taste, not to mention the assistance provided by the monks in the refectory! The label was based on the coat of arms of the solemn "Jarente gate" built in 1760. Other brothers work on the bottling after two weeks of "keeping" at 0°C in order "to evacuate the yeast and stabilize the aromas" of the amber beer.

The community building aspect of the project was also reinforced by the brothers' pride in producing the beer from scratch on the spot. This "was not the case for the Saint-Wandrille wax and other monastic products that we sold but which are produced elsewhere," notes Brother Benedict, who is responsible for the shop (1). The new Saint-Wandrille beer, which contains 6.25% alcohol, is the only French beer brewed and bottled by monks within their abbey (2).

This method of production has also provided an opportunity for the community to renew with its tradition. A "hop door" in the south gallery of the cloister, recalls a clause in the testament of Fr Anségise de Fontenelle at the beginning of the 9th century, who desired that monks be provided with as much beer "as necessary" in order to avoid drinking water from infected streams.

Brewing three weeks out of four

Clearly, the beer production needs to remain compatible with monastic life. "Even though we have experienced success, we are not aiming to produce more," insists Brother Geoffroy, 37, who is a member of the tasting committee.

This is to ensure "a correct balance between prayer and work," he adds, referring to the formula "Ora et labora."

Thus, Brothers Matthieu and Christian only brew for three weeks out of four. During the working weeks, they celebrate the Eucharist earlier and are dispensed from certain offices. They work "in silence."

"We feel, we look, we taste… We use all the senses that God has given us," explains Brother Matthew. "We have to be rigorous and committed to what we are doing, as in spiritual life."

In this way, the Norman Benedictines emphasize that their beer production is in line with spiritual principles. Moreover, they are "guided at every stage by Providence which placed the persons necessary on our path," says Brother Philippe Chopin, president of the Ascendi company, which manages the abbey.

Insisting on the "let go" attitude that characterizes their project, based on the adage, "the brewer makes the mash, the yeast makes the beer, Brothers Matthieu and Christian emphasize that they do not have a complete hold over the process.

"Each brew is a new adventure," smiles Brother Matthieu. "It's a bit like having God working with us. He helps us improve unceasingly.."

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A considerable investment

With a loan of 750,000€, the Saint-Wandrille monks were able to purchase two 10 hectoliter brewing rooms and four 20 hectoliter fermenters. These were installed in a medieval building that also houses a bottling chain that can handle 1500 bottles per hour, in line with the chosen production volume of 80,000 liters of beer per year. The beer is for sale in 50 cl bottles for 4.50€ at the abbey and in other monasteries.

According to Fr Chopin, the profits will enable the financing of "four lighthouse projects" in the near future -- the preservation of the ruins of the transept of the ancient Saint Pierre abbey, the restoration of the cloister, the restoration of an 18th century wing to establish a library and the building of a new hostel for groups.

Notes

(1) Famous for its wax-based maintenance products, the Saint-Wandrille abbey has not made its own products since the 1990s although it remains the exclusive distributor.

(2) Certainaly, the Mont-des-Cats abbey in Godewaersvelde, in the Northern region, produces a trappist beer since 2022 but it is currently brewed in the Belgian abbey of Scourmont.

Originally published on December 8, 2016.

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