If you can get the correct size with a hex head, drill a hole through the head and then run wire through the holes. After going through each hole, wrap the wire clockwise around each head and pull tight. Then go to the next head and repeat. I had to do that on one of my T's. Have had no further problems keeping them tight.

I lost one of the original screws. I went down to the hardware store, found a metric stud that was 'close' stripped it into the inboard screw position (you know, that one that's almost impossible to start), glued the gasket to the Hog's head, started the metric nut and a 'star washer' on the stud, slid the slotted bendix cover on between the star washer and the gasket and installed the other 3 screws. Tightened everything up. Problem solved. Anybody that is such a 'purist' they would climb in there to see if I have the 'proper' screw in the 'proper' position, fine knock yourself out. Frankly, I couldn't care less. Naturally, I found the missing screw not long after I was finished, now I have a spare.

I always thought the thread was a 1/4-24 and have purchased the screws from Chaffins.As a quick fix I have retapped the holes with a 1/4-28 and used that size screw.I use an extension that makes it easier to tap Also I put the 3 oclock screw in a few threads and then slip the cover under it. makes it a lot easier to install

Hey, "Original Smith": do you really use a non-original part, or just recommend it for others?

Ever notice that it's always the screw that gets buggered, and rarely the nut? That's just the physics of it. A nut or threaded hole can be made of much softer material than the screw, and still not get damaged from abuse.

IOW, a metric screw may get a couple of bent threads on the end, while the hogshead remains pristine.

I would avoid any "quick fix" that would permanently alter or damage an original part, but that's just me. You are correct that the original bendix screw threads are an odd, hard to get size but they are available from the vendors and I recommend that you order a set of 4, instead of buggering up the threads of your hogshead as, hopefully, that hogshead will outlast you by many years and it will have a future owner that will wonder, what in the heck was done to the bendix screw holes, by who, and why?!

Anytime a screw goes through the block, hogshead, or pan and enters the interior of the engine, oil can get out through the threads by capillary action, therefore, I always clean, then coat the threads of such screws and bolts with "The Right Stuff", before inserting them in their holes and tightening them. Not only will it stop any leaks, but will act as a threadlock that will prevent the loosening of the fasteners

Examples of such bolts and screws are: The bendix screws, the starter screws, the transmission inspection cover screws, the oil pan bottom inspection cover bolts, the generator bolts, several of the timing gear cover screws and several others I know of, but who's precise location escape my memory right now. Jim Patrick

I had original screws, and replaced them once already with vendor supplied original size. They still loosened up after just a short time. Maybe a previous owner buggered up the holes. The cover now has a leak free set of Metric screws with blue locktite for good measure. Time will tell. I'll report back after I run it for a few dozen hours.