<I am reposting this under suspension and brakes as I don't think it belongs in general forum>
hello
i recently upgraded the front brakes on my 2015 gt automatic to the 6 piston brembos. i thought i would share my experience as i managed to do it fairly inexpensively. i noticed that people are selling their used brembos for far more than they can be had new. so i would like to include a parts list and where you can buy them from. you will need the following.
1)brembo calipers from car id
brcf 430 and brcf 431 140$ x 2
2)the following from rockauto
powerstop z23 $47
raybestos 681954 rotor $65 x 2
raybestos caliper hardware pack H18225A $12
carlson banjo bolt +crush washers H94702 $1.82 x 2
3)the following from tasca
brake dust shields FR3Z 2K004-C and FR3Z 2K005-C $5 dollars each
caliper bolts W716471-S439 $2 x 4

total cost of the above is 491 dollars. you can count on $100 for shipping and tax. also, the calipers have a refundable $100 core deposit you get back when you return your old calipers.
i used pentosin dot 4lv brake fluid. this is equivalent to the motorcraft dot 4lv that came with the car
The brakes work great. slightly more grab than the originals. however, they were replacing 50,000 mile rotors/pads. very smooth and easy to modulate. silent as well. fit fine under the 19 inch painted dark silver wheel option.
the 6 pistons have slightly less piston area than the 4 pistons. this is offset by the larger diameter rotor, however, in terms of torque.
the stock master cylinder appears to be fine for this upgrade. im not sure what to say about the vorshlag experience.
the braking bias does not seem to be affected. regardless, you can always alter bias by changing pads to higher/lower friction.
the raybestos caliper hardware pack is $12 dollars for both sides. the oem one is 85 dollars per side.
the raybestos 681954 is better than the 681954fzn as it is milled to a higher tolerance.
the brake dust shields i listed look different and are much larger than the ones pictured with the ford performance brembo set. my understanding is that the new mustangs have this larger shield.
install was fairly straightforward except for removing the old rotor. you will find it has seized in place. the videos show a guy tapping on it with a mallet a couple times and it is free. this is not the case. it will take ~100 hard blows per side with help from some liquid wrench. i also found that placing a jack under the disc and jacking the rotor up a bit helped to free it.
you can reuse the banjo bolt but not the crush washers.
the caliper bolts are microencapsulated and they recommend they be one use only
the motive power bleeder works ok. it is quite messy and im not sure its better than a manual bleed. one thing i noticed is that if not enough pressure is placed in the chamber, a steady stream of very small bubbles emanates from the caliper that will not clear. my understanding is that this is air entrained from the threads of the bleed screw when the pressure in the system is too low.
overall im very happy with the upgrade and i think any reasonably capable person could do the job successfully. the downside is that the kit adds 5lbs per side to your wheels.
as far as jacking up the car, the easiest way is to place a jack in the middle of the car at the pinch weld. jack up the entire side and simultaneously place two jackstands under the jacking points. repeat for the other side.

Looking up the part number he gave, it shows up on the major sites around $150 each so looks right. "Caliper Assembly - Brake - Less Pad - Ford"

He's not wrong in them generally being listed over this price, but generally they'll come with most everything except the rotors and be around $450-$650. For the lower range, could be better than dealing with putting things together for some people. For the higher range, doing this would be a better deal for sure.

The other part is maybe the core exchange for the calipers is supposed to be Brembos as well so you could be hit with an extra charge there?

Are the caliper bolts the same as the base GT one?? The dealership said that they don’t need to be replaced they can just be cleaned and thread locker re applied

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that would work 99% of the time. the problem is with brake/suspension bolts is that they are mission critical and 99% of the time isnt good enough. that blue or red stripe on the bolt is microencapsulation and is a shear force activated version of loctite. only works once. theres no reason to try to save 3$ on this project by reusing the bolts. obviously, this is my opinion only.

that would work 99% of the time. the problem is with brake/suspension bolts is that they are mission critical and 99% of the time isnt good enough. that blue or red stripe on the bolt is microencapsulation and is a shear force activated version of loctite. only works once. theres no reason to try to save 3$ on this project by reusing the bolts. obviously, this is my opinion only.

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You’re 100% correct. I went and added them with my rotors. Do they come as a pack of 2 on rock auto??
Also how are the rotors? They seem way cheaper than oem