Ok - give me a bit of time to get things together. Don't forget to look at the stuff peterle and I have already put together. Plus I will gather together some help I received from Schneidergott about the very old sewing terms.

G

Shell made out of goldFound on a beach picked up and you held so close

"When you decide to draft nett: In Inlays and turnings http://www.cutterand...p?showtopic=399 is a sketch of Rundschau Trousers. The full lines are the drafted pattern lines, the dotted lines are the sewing lines. Fertige Naht/Nähte means finished seams, witch means you have to sew directly on the line. So there is no seam allowance at the darts and the center back seam!

Grey areas are inlays for fitting (Einschlag) and turnings (Saum).They are not included in the pattern and are added when cutting the fabric.

Knowing this, it´s possible to draft the pattern nett, but it´s very easy to make mistakes (been there, done that). Easier and faster and more reliable is pfaff260´s method."

Edited by Schneiderfrei, 07 August 2016 - 01:33 AM.

Nikola likes this

Shell made out of goldFound on a beach picked up and you held so close

This was from Schneidergott, and refers to some quite old instruction terms:

"Abgesperrt" means "blocked" in older texts. In this particular case the waistband doesn't allow the cloth/ back trouser to go up, so everything is pushed downwards. [this is where you cut open the paper pattern to enlarge the piece]

"Gesperrt" or "sperren" of a pattern means "to open (-ed up)".

"Kneifen" for that matter means the opposite, you close/ overlap a part of a pattern. [to make the piece smaller]

This also from Schneidergott:

In old texts the waist/ Taillenumfang is called Unterweite.

Leibweite is something you'll find in really old texts.

Edited by Schneiderfrei, 10 August 2016 - 01:27 AM.

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Shell made out of goldFound on a beach picked up and you held so close

Mehrweitenkontrolle = you controll how much ease you have added.example: Goal is 5.5 cm ease per half pattern for a coat.You add up the different measures from Armhole Bustwidth, backwidth of your pattern and subtract 1/2 of bustcirc.Result is the Mehrweite.There is Umbug - this is a hem too only once folded over.lgposaune

Sorry, but yes. Saum does mean seam, even though naht is more commonly used. In both Dutch and German there is a fuzziness between naad/zoom and naht/saum that doesn't exist in English.

I can´t say it for Dutch, but in German Saum only means hem. Just looked it up in three different dictionaries for current German (Duden, Brockhaus and Meyers Konversationslexikon) and Wikipedia. It only means "the turned fabric at the lower edge of a garment to prevent fraying". Saum and Naht are completely distinguished in German.