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john, how about filling the hollows with an aluminium pod like yukoner stated. they make pods for duck boats to add to transom. bolt it on fill the small gaps with 5200 and water would flow around it and give you buoyancy. you could almost extend the pod a wee bit past transom without effecting motor travel and the prop is high enough in water column any disturbance in water flow i wouldnt think should matter much ?

yukoner/ak.air: yes, those suggestions are what i had implied back here, but had not really refined the idea yet: "the sponsons idea is about what we have been thinking about; something that is an add-on as opposed to destroying the original canoe. these would only come into play when the motor is cranked up, thus leaving the canoe, essentially, the canoe." my hunting partner and i have hashed this over a bit, and we figured the form/'glassing approach was a feasible way to go. too, i had thought of riveting a slice of an aluminum pipe/sponson/pod/whatever i could find, and will look into the duck boat pods. please keep the ideas and refinements thereof coming! thanks for the ideas. john

thnx, rod, but the JB is too heavy. it adds another 125 lbs, and the HB is hard enough to row as it is. i suppose a guy could haul another craft for floating in that sucker, though. i will have to ponder this, but the idea of buying another craft is an obstacle. is your honda a jet, or prop?

The Honda is a prop. I have a hydraulic jack plate on it. Also I wasn't recommending a James Bay to you, they are heavy and scarce as hens teeth, but trying to make the case for duplicating the bottom/stern area onto your Hudson. Good luck!

Month ago, I saw forum member rifleman's old 18 ft Scott Albany canoe on the tangle lakes. Rifleman must have sold it. It had the "wine-glass delete" that he had done after meeting with me, was the only way I recognized it. That young gal running the 9.9 motor beat me in the shallows, couldn't keep up with her, though I was hauling a heavier load.

Best way to do the wineglass delete, is to:
1. build a new transom template out of carboard, following the lines of the canoe as closely as possible. tape this to the back of the stern. Build a cardboard cavity around the wineglass.

2. Pour a two-part expanding floatation foam into the cardboard mold. When cured, rip off the carboard, cut foam to shape with a hand saw, following the lines of the canoe.

3. Fair and sand to a fine finish with epoxy fairing compound,

4. fiberglass over the foam.

5. Fair once more, prime and paint with marine paints.

I have the two part expanding foam you can have for free, I don't need it, as I don't do these modification or repair jobs much anymore. I'm usually passing through Fairbanks once a month.

mike: that general procedure is about what we had planned, but we did not think of floatation foam; good idea. the other details you provided will be helpful, too. i will contact abatibi to see what epoxy and glass they use. sure, would love to have the foam; i may be running to delta soon to see if we can catch some aging silvers; smoked they ought to be good. cheers. john