Ruff: same as cut
Overruff: a 2nd player has to ruff the card led, and does so with a higher card than the first
Force: 1. to play a suit an opponent must ruff. 2. To play a card to force a higher card.
Uppercut: when 2 consecutive players are forced. The first is being uppercut: he has to ruff high or risk being overruffed. His trump suit quality in either case is eroded very quickly.
Duck: Not win a trick when you could.
Dummy: declarer's partner.
Dealer: the person who dealt the cards, and is therefore the player in the dump position (see dump)
1st seat: first to act. During bidding, this is the player on dealer's left. During play, it's declarer.
2nd seat: second to act. During bidding, this is dealer's partner. Also known as Saver, when 1st seat passes. During play, declarer's LHO.
4th seat: last to act. During play, declarer's RHO.
3rd seat: during bidding, the player to the right of the dealer. Important because 3rd seat bidding is often greatly different from any other seat.

Side note: you have Save, and Save Bid. For annotational purposes, I'd suggest Save (hand play) and Save (bidding), because I know I just use 'save' in auctions all the time. Quite a bit shorter. Be nice if there was a common term for the "score your meld" 20...but there's not.
Hmm...

One thing I hate...Jump Bid, Double Jump Bid. First, your meaning only applies after 60, so 70 over 58 is...what? And what do you call 58 over 54? What is 75 over 60?

I realize that these might be the terms people learned, but they're really poor terms IMO. They're too specific, and leave too many gaps.

Why make 2 terms? Adjusted meld is simply a method of evaluating a hand's total value when you're giving meld. It simply gives somewhat more definition to the question, "how much meld should I tell partner I have?"

Some people define 52 over 50 as 16-24 meld (maybe 26) meld...regardless of strength. This is blind. Meld ALONE is only part of the story. When partner gives me meld, I figure that meld and usually 2 tricks...so when partner gives 20, I can take my meld, add 2.5 points per trick in my hand, and add 25 for his total contribution. If he has 16 with 4 aces...well, that contribution rates to be 8-10, so he's right in the ballpark.