Thanks for the antenna info. I will try to go in and solder it from the other side.....

On another note.....the first battery I did fine inside my double garage....no crashes yet...but, on my second battery, when I try to raise the throttle over about 1/4 to 1/3 there is a violent 'shake' for a split second, then again in a second or two. This was consistent with each time I started to take off from the ground....Is this the 'shudder' problem I have seen a few talk about? I did check the flybar and it moves very freely. It looks like someone just shot it with a rubber band...it is that violent...almost like the motor stopped and started in a split second......

The motor is generic. You can replace it with a Solo Pro motor, Xieda motor. If you went to your local hobby shop, I think they'll have a motor in stock.

Regarding your antenna, if the solder at the circuit board is OK, then you're fine. Look at madmito's images at the previous page. His antenna is down, just like yours. I think it's to improve reception.

The motor is generic. You can replace it with a Solo Pro motor, Xieda motor. If you went to your local hobby shop, I think they'll have a motor in stock.

Regarding your antenna, if the solder at the circuit board is OK, then you're fine. Look at madmito's images at the previous page. His antenna is down, just like yours. I think it's to improve reception.

You don't necessarily need a new motor. This can be fixed with lube, as I and several others have done. Assuming the newer v911 still have the little holes on the top of the motor. Drop in a few drop of clipper oil, or some other fine oil. I used a toothpick for better precision. As always, your results may vary. But that's exactly what mine did shortly after I got it. I lubed it and it's been fine ever since. These motors are cheap, yes, but with a little love they will last a while.

Assuming the newer v911 still have the little holes on the top of the motor.

Lubricate the commutator?

There are little holes on both endcaps of the main motor.

Looking at the V911, the "TOP" is where the wires go in, and there are two little holes.
Adding oil to these two holes lubricates the commutator.

Looking at the V911, the "BOTTOM", where the pinion gear is, also has small holes.
Lubricating these holes will lubricate the brass bushing.

My own opinion is don't lubricate anything until well after a 1/2 hour total flight time break-in period.

On my five V911's I have never lubricated anything until recently, I put a drop of oil on the tail motor shaft on two of the originals because I was flying them very hard wind-surfing in my back yard, using only Throttle, Rudder, and Elevator. I never had any motor problems

Hi, guys. New owner here. Been waiting for almost three weeks.....Everything worked fine right out of the box. Only required one click of forward trim to do a hands free hover.......I do have one question....Looking from the back of the copter, there is a grey wire on the bottom right of the board. This wire will actually swing back and forth from the left and right, like it's solder joint is fixing to break. As I try to look closer, I think it might be the antenna wire coming through a hole in the board. I assume it is suppose to swivel back and forth? For now I have taped it to the canopy just to keep it from moving back and forth.

I leave mine hanging down bellow the canopy. It's not as ptretty as tucking 'em all the way up under the canopy. But it seems to increase the range about five or ten yards, and THAT's important to me - I can use all the help I can get (in even a light breeze my 911's are always to escape from me ... before I realize they're up to no good!).

Mine also feel like they're about to break,.. but they never have. I think that's just the way they are (VERY mild aluminum/tin mix or something).

Well my flybars crossed the border today, but they still wont be here till Monday. It sucks being grounded due to a $2 part, I don't know if I will make it The worst part is the forecast for the early part of next week Rain and wind

Well my flybars crossed the border today, but they still wont be here till Monday. It sucks being grounded due to a $2 part, I don't know if I will make it The worst part is the forecast for the early part of next week Rain and wind

No mail delivery Friday and Monday, be patient.

You are not alone, same weather up north if not worse. And my flybar order is over 4 weeks now and still counting.

2,167 ohms and 2,165 ohms, add some gold and 1.5% is well within the 5% tolerance. Like it matters.
20 year old metal film 1/2 watt resistors. The 2 ohms difference makes me think my ohmmeter is off as it is odd to pull two resistors out of a junk box and are that well matched.

2,167 ohms and 2,165 ohms, add some gold and 1.5% is well within the 5% tolerance. Like it matters.
20 year old metal film 1/2 watt resistors. The 2 ohms difference makes me think my ohmmeter is off as it is odd to pull two resistors out of a junk box and are that well matched.

Wow, measured in 4 sig. figures. I am impressed.

We probably won't feel too much difference between 2.2k and 2.7k.

I only had 4.7K carbon film resistors around. They were those stuck in my electronic parts can for the last 30 years. Accuracy is only 20%. I used 2 in parallel and they came up about 2.6K on my analog multi-meter. Good enough.

With my soldering pencil still hot, I added a battery connector to a V911 and tried some heavy batteries.

The night before I taped a 300mah battery to the landing skid and used a stock 130mah battery to fly. It lifted off three times in the dark, meaning it could carry it's own battery and the weight of an additional heavier battery.

Today I tested wind surfing running the 300mah battery. The V911 flew rather well into the wind and a few orbits to pick up speed. What I didn't expect was the inertia from all that weight as it picked up speed and zoomed past my head.

Then I did the same with a 200mah battery. The V911 flew much better and altitude changes were not as sluggish. This time I tried fast forward and a hands off hover. It took twice as long as the normal battery to stop, but it did stop, rocked a few times, and sat there until I turned it into the wind again. Ran with the lower rate. The V911 wasn't as lofty as with the stock battery and it held better into the wind, although it still wanted to float up, up, and away when I centered elevator. Fast forward into the wind was hopeless without pushing nose down and adding a lot of throttle, but it still goes fast.

Weight balance was easy, Center of heavy battery taped to original battery holder with mid-battery at the front edge of where the stock battery ends up.

EDIT:
Deleted battery information ... I already have 15 of these
heavy batteries for another helicopter. My nature is to post
all test information. It wasn't a suggestion to actually go out
and buy these batteries.

I did the resistor mod last night and its great, must do mod IMO. I did 2.2kohm resistors and I put them on a switch. I also added them to the aileron pot as well which I also like, the switch is definitely a good move for the aileron, but probably not necessary for the rudder pot. I like it so much that I want to add more for the elevator and throttle. "Throttle?" you ask. Well, yes, the reason why is this: I did the paddle flybar mod (another must do) which shortened my flybar. This resulted in an increase in head speed which is fantastic, but also makes the throttle very touchy.

So, I have some questions for the electronics guys here.

1. Can this be done on the throttle pot and are there any different considerations?

2. Will the additions of all of these resistors just drain the batteries down?

3. For those of us who are adding a switch, why cant we just put in one resistor on the common? If we can, do we need to double or halve the resistance?

I'm really only good enough with electronics to get myself into trouble, so any help is certainly appreciated.