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Topic: The Bus (Read 84963 times)

So this weekend I used to to haul plants and mulch and ordered new LED tailights of the same style as i put on the LML. Someone put 2003 tail lights on it and they are showing some wear. These should look good.

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Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

I wouldn't necessarily change them out. I do push the full bearing kit to my regular customers because 90% of them haven't even changed the gear oil until this point, so everything is suspect, but for someone on this site, maintenance is a creed more than a chore and most likely if he hasn't got any issues now, they are like new and a lot more labor intensive than just installing the new locker.

A note on the rear and front carrier bearings; you physically cannot over-torque the carrier adjusters. get it as tight as humanly possible and drive home the lock tab. this will generate preload on the bearings and pre-flexion (if that's a thing) on the housing so that when you hammer down, the ring gear isn't driven away from the pinion gear allowing it to ride out on the weaker tips of the teeth.

Removing the driver's side front stub shaft is a HUGE PITA. I recommend a long punch, remove the breather assembly and go from the inside against the end of the stub shaft while someone that's fatter than you and you don't like too much beats the living piss out of the other end with a slide hammer. keep things oriented straight and it will usually come out without breaking the housing half or being sliced in half w/ mr plazma.

Tate, I'm so destructive, I can break a bowling ball so saying I can't over torque something.....well, I've yet to find something I can't break. Of course at my age now I might separate a rib in the process.....

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Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

9" ford for example: 185lb guy hanging off a 3 ft breaker bar with a floor jack handle extension bouncing up and down. Me, "isn't that a little excessive?" Him, "probably not enough actually". TRN, you might damage the adjuster nut or the tool being used to turn it, but you're trying to compress the rollers in the bearing vertically. I'm sure you could come up with a contraption to break it, but with common hand tools it's pretty tough... never mind. Challenge initiated.

are y'all running anything in your fuel to help with lubricity/extending injector life by reducing the harsh conditions under which they live?

had a guy that rebuilt my VE pump on the 1st gen cummins tell me ~16oz of power steering fluid per 3 tanks of fuel. i run ~10oz of 2 stroke motor oil in my powerstroke when i fill up at my buddies shop.

just curious. didn't mean to DOT.. but we seem to be on injectors. hahah

I have similar on my rear bumper. Thought about switch and decided against it. Reason being if the only come on in reverse you'll have less chance flashing someone behind you that's ticked you off for whatever reason. Solution to keeping them on, shut off engine and leave in reverse, they stay on for a while and sure does help hooking up.

The reason I was thinking about a switch is if I'm backing my 5th wheel up at night. I would think it would glare and i wouldn't be able to see anything in the mirrors. But maybe not. If it don't then that would simplify things.

Been a while since I’ve updated here. Not much Happening other than maintenance.

Installed a Beans Sump and replaced the motor on the AD165 under warranty.

Changed the oil and rotated tires.

Replaced all the color matched door handles with standard black ones since the lock cylinder got punched out of one by a would be thief. Had to rebuild the lock cylinder too.

Washer pump went out so I had to pull the battery tray. Had some of the caliper paint left over and I decided to paint the tray since it was rusting. (just for you, Norm)

Had a rear window regulator go bad. Bought an AC delco on Amazon. Ordered the right instead of the left. Decided to keep it since I had replaced both the fronts before putting the dynamat sound deadener in, and with replacing the left rear, the only one that is not new will be the right and I'm sure it will die sooner or later....

Now, since I had already dynamatted the rear doors, opening them up to get to the regulator was a royal pain....

But got it done.

Then the instrument cluster PRNDL and odometer display quit working. Dave, Ryan, Kyle and others, pay attention here. Known defect in the OBS trucks. One solder joint breaks and repairing it is pretty straighforward.

Got that done this morning. 5 minutes to pull the cluster, 5 minutes to disassemble. 30 minutes to locate readers and magnifying glasses and a soldering iron I misplaced...2 minutes to solder and 5 minutes to reinstall.

Now the hydroboost is leaking and I bought one but havent had time to mess with it yet.

I've spent 4 months working on the Casita and not much other than maintenance on the 4 vehicles are getting done.

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« Last Edit: January 06, 2018, 11:15:25 AM by TexasRedNeck »

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Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.

JR. Instrument lights are analog and incandescent so you should be able to trace the circuit board path to the connector at the top and put an ohm meter to confirm which pin it is at the top. Then turn on you lights and see if you have power at that connector. That will narrow it to either the cluster or wiring

Just for you Norm!!

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« Last Edit: January 07, 2018, 08:39:11 AM by TexasRedNeck »

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Kids today don't know how easy they have it. When I was young, I had to walk 9 feet through shag carpet to change the TV channel.