Take Great Photos of WildlifeJoin Triple "D" game farm in central California for its 2004 wildlife photography road show!

This unique opportunity offers photographers the chance to photograph wildlife models in an array of natural settings, providing you with beautiful, convincing, and visually interesting backgrounds for your animal pictures.

In addition, Triple "D" is offering a rare and exciting "Day On The Ranch" photo opportunity, where you can photograph colorful horses, roping activities, cowboys, as well as a cattle drive.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~WHAT'S NEW AT BETTERPHOTO.COM~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Welcome to the 149th issue of SnapShot!

Hi

Thanks very much to everyone who has given us positive feedback about our new online store. This store showcases the books and other resources offered by our BetterPhoto instructors. Buying direct from BetterPhoto, you can get a signed copy of your favorite photography how-to guidebook. Even better, you can combine a spring photo course with an autographed companion book by your instructor.

I also wanted to let you know about a new team member among the BetterPhoto staff of instructors, Joe McDonald. Joe will be Guest Instructing my Digital and Photoshop classes, helping us out as they are already full.

Also, don't miss the exciting new class we have by Jim Zuckerman. In a recent survey to the BetterPhoto alumni, we asked how many people would be interested in learning Corel Painter. The response was frankly overwhelming so Jim has agreed to help us by sharing his excellent tips and techniques with this software.

Lastly, the judges are reviewing the contest as we speak and should have the finalists posted by the weekend. With 12,000 entries, we have another set of great contest winners (and another big challenge ahead for the judges).

*****Save $100 on Combo Wildlife Workshop - Sign Up SoonJim Miotke's unique on-location and online workshop on wildlife photography just got better! If you sign up today, you can get $100 off.

Limited to only 12 photographers, this Combo Workshop is an incredible opportunity you just can't pass up. Imagine capturing award-winning images of grizzly cubs, mountain lion kittens, wolves, bobcat, black bear, and even a Siberian tiger - all in natural settings. Learn how to beyond mere identifying shots, to capture the inner character of these beautiful animals.

You will also enjoy a unique "Day at the Ranch" - especially geared for photographers. You'll have ample opportunities to get awesome images of running horses, cowboys, and ranch activities.

Like a mini-course on wildlife photography, this workshop will include pre-trip learning materials, a pre-trip assignment, as well as online critiques of your work, after the on-location shooting is completed.

*****New Course on Corel Painter by Jim ZuckermanOpen to anyone who wants to learn the creative tricks of Corel Painter 8.0, this course will teach you how to transform your favorite photographs into a beautiful paintings. Painter allows you to create oil paintings, mosaics, chalk sketches, and impressionistic masterpieces from your photos. In no time at all, this course will teach you how to make Van Gogh and Picasso look like amateurs! http://www.betterphoto.com/photocourses/JZK06.asp

*****Joe McDonald Joins BetterPhoto Team of InstructorsGuest instructing two of Jim Miotke's classes this spring, the highly acclaimed Joe McDonald will be joining BetterPhoto.

We are thrilled with this addition for two reasons:

Joe is an incredible photographer, a renowned author, and a great instructor. If you are at all familiar with his images, his books, his classes, or his appearances on television, you know what we are talking about.

This means that those of you who did not get into Jim Miotke's courses before they became full NOW HAVE A SECOND CHANCE!

That's right! If you missed the boat, you can still sign up for "Digital Photography" and "Photoshop for Photographers"! For these special guest instructed classes, BetterPhoto founder Jim Miotke has authored and illustrated each lesson and Joe McDonald will be answering your questions and critiquing your photos.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~PHOTO TRIVIA QUIZ OF THE WEEK~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Last week, we asked:Which National Geographic photographer is accredited with discovering and photographing the source of the Amazon River? What book featured him for this achievement?

The first, best answer - entered by BetterPhoto member Janet D. is:I think you are asking about Loren O. McIntyre and his book SCH-AMAZONIA. It could also be noted that a National Geographic article by Donald Smith, dated December 21, 2000 gives credit to the exact pinpoint of origin to a five-nation National Geographic expedition headed by a 46-year-old Carmel, N.Y. math teacher named Andrew Pietowski. Both Mr. McIntyre's tremendous work and photographs and the team's final verification of Mr. McIntyre's identification of the source are worthy of being mentioned. Mr. McIntyre's allegation of the true source is no longer open to argument or speculation.

[Great answer, Janet. But the book I was looking for (I know it was an obscure question) was the Guinness Book of World Records. Thanks!]

Protecting the Ball Head on Your TripodWhen photographing outdoors, it's easy to get sand, salt, salt spray, water and other bad stuff on and in your ball head, and this can damage the head. Just a few grains of sand in the area where the ball head is supposed to swivel can ruin the precision smoothness of it! To keep it as clean as possible, buy a small draw-string stuff sack that fits over your head, and keep it on the head until you are ready to use the tripod. Believe me, it will save you money in the long run! I have even made mine sack padded, so the head is protected when traveling in my luggage.

Absolute Beginner's Guide to Taking Great PhotosMy new book guides you away from the point-and-pray method of taking pictures to shooting with confidence. In this simple and clear how-to book, you will learn:

How to compose your picture with a more artful eye

The top qualities that winning photos exhibit

Tips and secrets for consistently getting better results... and much more.

You can order this book online, call our toll-free order processing number 1-888-927-9992, or simply send a check or money order for USD $16.90 (or USD$18.90 if shipping to Canada or USD$24.90 to other international addresses) to:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~PHOTOGRAPHY Q&A - NEW THIS WEEK~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

NEW QUESTION 1: Upgrading a 75 - 300 mm f/4.0- 5.6 LensI have had alot of problems with focusing using my Canon 75 - 300 lens. I used to have a EOS 500 but have just upgraded to an EOS 50E. I had previously taken my set up to shops but they could offer no advice. The upgrade was one option and the other is to also look at the zoom lens. Could anyone recommend another zoom lens preferably to 300mm or evn more, that doesnt struggle with long range photos, especially when tacking wildlife and reflective images on water?!- Jon D. Blackwall

ANSWER 1:The 50E (Elan IIe) has improved af over the 500 (Rebel XS), faster and better in lower light. The performance of the lens on the 50E should be the same as on the 500.

Are you having trouble with eye control focus (ECF), is the camera jumping from one focus sensor to another? I'm assuming you picked up the 50E used. Did you clear the ECF settings before calibrating to your eye? If you didn't clear the settings first then the camera simply combines your calibration with data from prior settings, which will result in unreliable function.

To clear the ECF settings, turn the Command Dial to CAL, use the Main Dial to select the memory to be cleared (1, 2, or 3), then simultaneously press AEL (*) and the focus-select (ooo) thumb-buttons. Now you can calibrate the ECF for your own eye. Do it several times (without clearing) with different lenses, focal lengths, and different lighting situations, horizontally and vertically to improve its function.

Otherwise, f/5.6 lenses are the limit for reliability with autofocus. In difficult conditions af performance is improved if you manually select the more sensitive center cross sensor instead of using ECF or automatic sensor selection.- Jon Close

ANSWER 2:It is interesting that you are having problems with the lens. I have the exact same one and love it! I use it at 300mm all the time and without a tripod. I have never had a problem focusing, they are always crisp.Is there a way for you to exchange for the same lens? You might just have a faulty one.- Jen Hernandez

NEW QUESTION 2: How To Read Ambient Light MetersCan you direct me to any sources that will explain ambient light meters and how they work? I bought an older model on at a flea market, it is a DeJur, made in the USA. It seems to be in good working order, but I have no idea how to read the dial.- Johnda Cantrell

ANSWER 1:You might try http://www.craigcamera.com/ib_de.htm to get a manual for it.

Generally you have to set the dial with the film speed you are using. On older meters the ASA scale is the same as today's ISO. The film speed was sometimes also on the DIN (German standard), where DIN 21° = ASA/ISO 100, and each 1° change = 1/3 stop: DIN 24°=ISO 200, DIN 27°=ISO 400, etc.

Some meters then have a needle that points to a number, and you turn the dial to that number to get shutter speed and aperture combinations. Other meters you set the desired shutter speed on the dial and the needle will point to the appropriate aperture. Still others have a pointer connected to the dial and you turn the dial to put the pointer over the light meter needle ("match needle").- Jon Close

NEW QUESTION 3: A Beginner Looking for AnswersI have always loved photography as my hobby, and now I want to turn it into a business. I know that I need to play around before I start a busniess. I have 2 small children so they can be my ginny pigs=-)! Anyway I have a Rebel Ti, but my question is... I am going to do portraits so should I stick with my 35mm, or go to a medium format camera? I will probably start with pictures outside only and then working my way inside. Any suggestion for a begginer would be greatly appreciated. I am having trouble finding good information.- Jerrica Dalton

ANSWER 1:Jerrica, I started off with the same camera! Don't feel like you have to go medium format just because it's there. The most important thing for you is to get great pictures. Fous on consistency. No matter what camera you have, all that matters is great results. There will always be better and more expensive equipment, but if you take great pictures, you will take great pictures with whatever you use. The Rebel Ti is a great camera, don't let yourself be intimidated by what the "experts" use. Some of their pictures aren't terribly spectacular! Know your camera and have fun with it. At first I was intimidated to do studio shots because the lighting aspect was made out to sound so difficult. Well it's not! You may be a beginner but you have fresh eyes and fresh ideas, just express yourself in your work and have fun with it.- Jen Hernandez

ANSWER 2:I like Jen's comments - I also would have to say concentrate on the camera you have. Good photography is not about who has the best equipment - use your imagination and you will be surprised what results you can get. As you know camera equip can be expensive so check out used first and go from there. Find a few basic poses etc that work well for you and stick to them untill you are comfortable and perfected them, then branch out from there.Good luck - you are going to have tons of fun!- Pamela CM Lammersen

NEW QUESTION 4: Wedding Photography with Kodak PortraI've noted some recommending exposing their wedding shots at 1 full stop overexposed to "insure there is no underexposure". Thinking specifically of the Kodak Portra 160NC film, what is the general view on this? Do any who are doing so find the photolabs have problems with this? And most important - are the results truly superior? Any thoughts about the 160 vs the 400 if you know the couple will not want any prints larger than 8x10? Thanks everybody!

Regads- Jim Zimmerman

ANSWER 1:I shoot slide film therefore, I can't speak from experience in shooting print film such as your Portra 160NC. However., your meter doesn't care if you're shooting slide or print film, it's still going to read the same. So for white objects, such as the brides wedding dress, you'll need to overexpose to keep it white instead of neutral grey (I'm not sure of the characteristics of Portra 160 but I usually overexpose by 1/2 to 1/3 stops with my Provia 100F). Don't change your ISO to overexpose, just use the f/stop or shutter speed to overexpose. That way your lab won't have any problems. I recommend going with the 160 because the 400 is just too grainy, even at 8x10.- Terry

ANSWER 2:Jim, While I agree with most of what Terry has written, I do respectfully disagree with the notion that 400 speed film is too grainy. If you haven't already, try Fuji NPH400 film rated at 320 and process it normally at a good lab. do the same with Fuji NPZ 800 but rate it at 640. you'll get terrific color saturation and contrast and enlargements to 8x10 will be fabulous, particularly for the photojournalist type shots during the reception, etc.

I have no experience with Kodak's Portra 160 because I prefer Fuji NPS 160, which I rate at 160 and process it as such. Certainly, you can play with the exposure settings on your camera and bracket your shots but the reality of this is that if you're taking candids photojournalistically, the shot may only be there for a few seconds and then its gone so speed counts and you may not have time for bracketing. Formal portaits, however, allow you the time to over and under expose a third to a half either way and practically speaking, thats what I do with formal portraits. I've had no problems at all with my local lab printing at the speeds indicated.- Andy J. Lastra

NEW QUESTION 5: Lens Hood vs Lens FiltersBet you can't tell I'm a novice by this question!! Does a lens hood negate need for a lens filter? All I know is that a hood cuts out some glare, yes? Is it useful to use it outside all the time? Use it everywhere all the time? Also, assuming that one would use filters all the time with the hood as well, would I use a polarizing filter all the time outdoors instead of the standard filter that prevents dust and protects the lens. I'm confused and I can't find it in the digital photo books I just got from the library. THANK YOU!- Laura J. Smith

ANSWER 1:Lens hoods and the filters have different purposes, the only overlap is a secondary purpose of protection.

A lens hood shields the front element from stray light and bright sources outside the field of view that can cause flare and ghosting.

Filters are used for changing the nature of the light entering the lens (adjust color, block certain wavelengths, polarize the rays, etc.) Filters can often contribute to lens flare because they add more reflective surfaces, so it is common to use a lens hood and filter together.

A lens hood can/should be used at all times, even indoors. However, depending on its size and the size/location of your flash, it can interfere with the light from a flash, causing shadows.

A polarizer should not be used outdoors all the time, only when the situation calls for it: such as when desiring to eliminate reflections on water or in glass windows, or at certain times of the day it can deepen the blue of the sky and saturate colors. It has little or no effect when the light is diffuse on heavy overcast days.- Jon Close

I just purchased the Canon EOS 10D. I need to get some good shots at a hockey game, this is the 1st time I have used an SLR. I was wondering if anyone can help with what settings to go with? The camera's action or should I adjust the ISO and shutter speed myself. If so what would work best?Thanks- Lisa Doyle

ANSWER 1:The lighting is apt to be different from the white-balance presets, so use the Custom White Balance.

The large expanse of white ice and side boards is likely to fool the camera's exposure meter into underexposing the players. You should expect to set +1 or more exposure compensation.

The indoor lighting is going to be dimmer than daylight, so expect to set a higher ISO of 400, 800, 1600, or 3200 to get action-stopping shutter speeds.

Do not try to use the flash unless you are sure you are within its range (which depends on the aperture of your lens and ISO setting used). For the built-in flash the maximum camera to subject distance is 40 ft x square root of (ISO setting/100)/aperture setting. Example: ISO 800 and f/5.6 lens limits the useful flash distance to 20 ft (40 x sqrt(800/100)/5.6 = 20.2).- Jon Close

ANSWER 2:Jon

Thank you very much for your advise, I will try it, the game is tonight and this will be very helpful.- Lisa Doyle

Here are some examples of my 1st try. I had ISO of 800, the pic's did come out darker then I wanted, I did not use a flash. I was taking the photos through the plastic glass. I am going back and will try a differant spot with no glass. These are not perfect but better then I have done before, thanks again for your help.- Lisa Doyle

NEW QUESTION 7: Taking Pictures of Small Birds and HawksI can't get pictures of red tail hawks. They only let you so close and they fly away. I've tried binoculars camcorders and I just bought a 200mm slr SLR - this helps get closer but you can't see their eyes. What can I do to help?- Carol Shagovac

ANSWER 1:Carol,Believe me when I say that,... "You're not alone"!

Raptors, including hawks, are notoriously camera shy in the wild. The chances of getting eye detail are slim, at best, with a 200 mm outfit.

Your best bet, is to shoot captive birds for your close-ups. The enclosed photo of a red-tail was taken at a local nature center,(Bear Branch in Carroll County, Maryland) with a 180 mm lens.

You should try doing a little research in your area to see if any place exists where photographers can access captive birds of prey in natural settings. Often, they will sponsor "wildlife shoots" for a small fee.

Smaller,(song birds) can be easier to photograph by attracting them with a feeder and water source. This can be often accomplished in your back yard, if it is adjacent to a wooded area where a variety of species frequent. Be sure to add natural props to the shooting area give your photos a "wild" appearance.- Bob Cammarata

NEW QUESTION 8: Other Photo Contests for 2004A question arose in another thread concerning other photo contests and contest sites. I thought it might be a good idea to pose this as a seperate question/discussion and see what everyone has to say. Other contests that I have participated in are:

NEW QUESTION 9: Differences Between Nikon DSLR'sI was wondering if anyone could explain to me the differences between the D1H, D1X, D2H, and D100? I understand that they have different specs, but I have heard that each one is specifically geared towards a certain style of photography. Any info would be great! Thanks. - Sean R. O'Connor

ANSWER 1:There is a lot of information on the Nikon USA site about the differences. You might want to check www.nikonusa.com. For a quick, simple run down here are the basic differences.

D1h and D2h are aimed at the same market. The D2h is the replacement model just recently introduced. Although the resolution is the lowest, it offers exremely high image quality. Most importantly though is the speed. It is ready to shoot as soon as it is turned on, it has the shortest shutter lag and fastest autofocus available in a SLR, and it can shoot continuously at 8fps for up to 40 jpegs or 25 RAW images before having to empty the buffer. It also has wireless communications built in for instant transfer of image files to another computer. Primary market is photojournalists and other markets that require extremely fast operation.

The D1x is getting a little long in the teeth. It is the rugged, high end system for pros. Although the resolution is not as high as the D100, many feel it creates a little better image (I don't agree). It is based on the F5 body, which is to say it is about the most rugged SLR you can buy. For people who take a lot of pictures and have constant handling it offers a reliable package.

The D100 is the mainstream advanced amateur system. It offers very high image quality at a reasonable price (in the DSLR world anyway). Its autofocus is not as fast as the pro bodies, and it is not as ruggedly built. For normal, everyday use it is a good system.

Coming in March is the D70. It offers less than the D100 in the way of accessories (e.g. no vertical grip), but it appears to have higher image quality, better metering and instant turn on. It is also under $1000 for the body. This will be the mainstream, high volume Nikon DSLR for the near future.

Hope I helped more than confused.- Roy Breslawski

ANSWER 2:Thanks for your response Roy, it did help. I don't understand how the d2h can have a lower resolution but higher image quality... but I do get the rest. Thank you again.- Sean R. O'Connor

ANSWER 3:Resolution is a big part of image quality, but it is only one factor. Also important are noise at a particular ISO, color response and accuracy, bit depth to name a few. Just the same as film. The smallest grained films are not neccessarily the highest quality for a particular image.- Roy Breslawski

NEW QUESTION 10: What Should I Stay With?Hi, I have been interested in photography for a couple of years and had been practicing on a Pentax ME-super. However, last year I got a digital camera and absolutely love it. I want to do freelance in the future but my question is, should I stick with digital or do I need to go back to film? Which is more in demmand? Thanks for any help you could give me.- angela

ANSWER 1:Why not keep both? It's all depending on what freelance work you will get into. For example, some wedding photographers take only digital. For a wedding, it is easily to take 200-300 pictures. I can't imagine how much time I have to spend adjusting each image (basic level adjustment) and printing them all out. I use a lab that will do all the adjustment for me and for a few bucks more, I can have all the images burned on CDs. But for catalog shots, usually I only take about 20-30 images. In this case, I will use the digital camera. Be flexible. Hope this helps.- Andy Szeto

NEW QUESTION 11: What is BracketingI am a beginner and I was wondering what it means to bracket.- Stacey L. Place

ANSWER 1:Bracketing means to shoot two or more additional shots of a particular scene at slightly different settings... both over, and under what is determined as the "ideal" exposure.

Typically, this is done with the aperture ring. If the scene requires 1/250 second at f-8, the shutter speed remains unchanged, but you would shoot at f-5.6, f-8, and f-11.This would be a bracket of one stop over and under, although it is usually best to use smaller increments of 1/2 stop either way.

Bracketing is most often used during difficult lighting situations to insure that at least one of the three shots in the series is properly exposed. - Bob Cammarata

CONTINUING QUESTION 1: Looking For a Beginner's Digital with EverythingI like the features of both the Olympus Camedia C-750 and Kodak Easyshare DX6490, but wonder if I'm getting in over my head as a first time digital buyer. I'm interested in taking pictures of the birds in my backyard as well as vacation, and family photos. Are either of these good choices? Will I need a tripod for zoom photos? I don't believe the C750 has that capacity.- Cindy Gawlik

ANSWER 1:Hi Cindy,The C750 is a great camera with it's long optical zoom. The only problem is that it is not a optically or electronically stabilised lens, so yes, you will need a tripod with the camera.

If you are looking for a stabilized system with a good zoom, you might try the Minolta A1. 7x optical with CCD stabilizer. If you can wait a few months, the A2 is coming out with all the same features as the A1 but with 8MP instead of 5MP.

A good camera I used to use was the C2100 which had optically stabilized 10x lens. But it was only 2MP and had ISO100-400 only.

In bright daylight, you should be able to handhold the 750 to take pictures of birds. The 750 has a very fast lens. But at longer telephoto ranges, you will need to brace against a wall or use a tripod. Sorry. ^_^;

But if you want relatively long focal length and stabilization, try the Minolta A1($600-$800) or the A2 when it comes out. Good luck!- Wing Wong

ANSWER 2:I own a Kodak Easyshare DX4330 (my first digital camera) and absolutely love it for a first-time digital user. I use it for a variety of shots: sports (action), scenery, and family photos. I use my tripod a lot especially with the zoom (I don't have a steady hand). For the price, you cannot go wrong with a Kodak - especially the Easyshare system which is sooooo easy and fast. I personally only buy Kodak and I don't know why they always seem to be "left out in the cold" by everyone. For their products I think they have the best price for the features. But remember to play, play, play with your camera to get to know the features it has and how they all work under different conditions. I've had mine for almost a year and I'm still having fun learning what it can do. Enjoy! and Good Luck!- Denise N

ANSWER 3:I own the DX6490, and I like it very much. Image stabilization or not, I think it never hurts to use a tripod- I put off getting one, but when I did I realized how helpful they are. The DX6490 is easy to use and has a lot of manual and auto features. It produces beautiful images. My only qualm is that for a few hundred more dollars I could've gotten a digital SLR. But, being an advanced amature, I found the Kodak had more than enough options to help me learn, and to produce great pictures. - Alisha May Furbish

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