Salad

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I expected Cheddar's Casual Cafe to be another entry on the long list of chain restaurants with mediocre food and no personality of its own. Heck, I expected the cook would smother the food under heavy cheddar cheese. Why else would they name the place Cheddar's? I was pleasantly surprised when I was, for the most part, wrong. The menu did offer the same burgers-sandwiches-salads-fajitas mix you can get at any of the restaurant's competitors. (You can stand on the doorstep, in fact, and see at least two neighboring eateries with similar menus.

George Komianos is there day and night cooking. I know. Ken and I go there for breakfast, lunch and dinner. George's Family Restaurant in front of the Grafton Shopping Center has become one of our close- to-home places to grab a quick, good bite. You know the drill. You're tired from pushing the mower and deadheading the flowers and want more than a slice of bologna on stale white bread. Open for about 90 days, George's gives you pancakes, omelets or over-easy eggs with bacon, sausage or ham any time of the day - 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. Cooked by George, no less.

T he waterfront setting for Bennett's Creek Restaurant is picture-postcard perfect. The evening sun glistens across the tops of marsh grasses edging the ribbon of water. Boats nudge the marina's small dock to gas up or tie down for the evening. Diners in sundresses or shorts with casual shirts crowd the entrance to the small wood-framed building. Those leaving move really slowly, wearing that I-ate-too-much look; those arriving hurry in with that I'm-starving look. Inside, we join the line of two other couples waiting to be seated.

Straightforward and casual like its name, Chutney's Bar & Grille blends a bright, cheerful atmosphere with no-frills food for good, casual dining. A second venture by the owners of Michael's Courtyard Ristorante in York County, it borrows some of the Courtyard's pasta dishes, but emphasizes its own namesake specials. Among them are "chutney fingers," or deep-fried chicken fingers with sweet and hot chutney as an appetizer; in the ample salad section, a "chutney sampler" has spiced shrimp and two styles of chicken salad; a "chutney burger" is distinguished by the relish on the side; and among the grilled chicken items there's a "chutney grille."

After a fire gutted the 16-year-old eatery in May 2003, Cheers is finally back up and running. The neighborhood eatery is as popular as ever and with good reason. The centrally located Oyster Point establishment serves decent fare at a decent price, with a hearty helping of service. It may not be the place where "everybody knows your name," as the theme song for the television sitcom says, but the folks at our local version sure make you feel welcome. Our Sunday night visit was no exception.

Adequate.That word came up over and over again during our meal at C.W. Cowling's in Smithfield: adequate salad, adequate ribs, adequate service, adequate lighting. The strip-mall restaurant was fairly busy the Wednesday evening we visited. Several of the tables appeared to be occupied by locals who chatted comfortably with the wait staff and manager. Cowling's is a casual family restaurant, filled with tables and booths and a small bar tucked onto one side. The atmosphere itself has a country feel, complete with soft green walls, wood trim, ceiling fans and pressed metal overhead lights.

Early Sunday afternoon seemed like a nice time to enjoy brunch at Seasons Restaurant Close by Williamsburg's historic district. The restaurant on South Henry Street -- near Merchants Square -- is doing some renovations to its outdoor dining patio, but the indoor bar and dining area are still open for business. When we entered about 1 p.m., the eatery was busy, but we were quickly seated. Our glass-topped table and its cushioned chairs looked like they needed replacing. The glass was scratched and the cushions were soiled.

Peanuts aren't the only things getting shelled in Suffolk. Mussels, shrimp, crabs, scallops, oysters -- not to mention plenty of other seafood -- are grabbing people's attention at Stephen and Margaret Gellas' new Pisces Restaurant. From the looks of things on Saturday, the Main Street restaurant is a welcome addition to Suffolk's dining-out options. It's a bit of a hike from the Peninsula, but worth every minute. I called ahead, and the hostess explained that reservations weren't accepted on Friday and Saturday nights, so we arrived early, around 5:30.