Some of the city's best ribs have hopped over from across the river.

For years, finding a decent rack of slow-smoked ribs in Southeast Portland was a problem best solved with a trip up to Northeast—the unofficial mecca of PDX barbecue. Now, three doors down from Nostrana, Smokehouse Tavern stakes its claim as the quadrant’s premier ’cue spot. Helmed by owner B. J. Smith, the tavern has the same metaphorical butcher block as the original Smokehouse 21 on NW 21st Avenue (beef brisket to pork cheeks), but the second restaurant is amped up with a full-fledged cocktail menu, a few stylish starters, and even brunch.

Smith’s fiancée, local fashion star Michelle Lesniak, designed the elegant new eatery—a major upgrade from the cramped, subterranean-feeling space in Northwest. A dramatically vaulted ceiling and an 18-seat bar dominate the narrow, light-filled room, with a menagerie of mirrors and a herd’s worth of taxidermy covering the mustard-colored walls.

The cocktail menu, curated by Rum Club barman Michael Shea, makes its mark with an old-fashioned subtly emboldened by “BBQ bitters” and a bright Prosecco quaff with a bite of celery bitters and cayenne pepper. Most important, Smokehouse Tavern is open late—which means great barbecue and cocktails are on offer until midnight.