Awesome job Tilt!
So is the program running entirely off a microSD card or onboard memory? A 5VDC connection to the pin itself shouldn't be an issue. Only one other problem...
We still need to get a 555 lamp in there. The most likely postion for it would be at the marquee.

This thing looks really small. Not sure if everyone is going to like it. Do you think you will be able to make out what is going on when it is actually installed in the pin?

Yes, it runs the program (very simple) off onboard memory and the animation is stored on microSD. The 555 won't be a problem, though I'm not sure I want to bother with the marquee. It would be a pretty delicate job, plus I'd have to remake a marquee. I'm going to see what it looks like with a super bright blue/purple 555 in the cavity behind the screen first, and if it's not noticeable enough I'll go from there. I'll pick up a variety of colors next weekend at CAX.

It is pretty small, I agree. You certainly couldn't "play" it at this resolution, but I think it does the job of looking like a real arcade game. As an ornament on the playfield, I think it would serve very well. There's enough visual variety with the original Tron game to look consistently interesting.

(07-02-2011 01:10 PM)jackal2001 Wrote: How hard was it to split the arcade cab apart. I haven't messed with mine yet. Did you have to drill a hole in the bottom first and start to pry it apart?

Pretty much. First slit the side decals along the seam so they don't tear (you can try and remove the decals, but good luck). Then Dremel along the seam at the bottom of the cabinet with a cutting disc. Once you've opened it up down there, slide a flathead screwdriver in and twist slowly all along. It should start to snap open. It's glued all along the edges, with two guide posts in the center.

I was going to try and remove the decals by first heating them up with a hobbie heat gun to see if they can be removed without destroying them.

I think you will be selling a lot of the uOLED screens if you want. You can program them and sell them to people who can install them on their own cabinet. I may be in for one but I want to see how you make out with yours first on the pin.

If you didn't see my post on RGP:
That 12V source on the right side of the coin box is also a 5VDC which
will drive this uOLED perfectly. It is Ground/5VDC/12VDC. That is
why it is a 3 wire connector but most of the time it is used for the
12VDC to drive LED kits. No need to modify anything.

(07-03-2011 03:59 PM)jackal2001 Wrote: If you didn't see my post on RGP:
That 12V source on the right side of the coin box is also a 5VDC which
will drive this uOLED perfectly. It is Ground/5VDC/12VDC. That is
why it is a 3 wire connector but most of the time it is used for the
12VDC to drive LED kits. No need to modify anything.

I did see your post, just now, and was about to reply there. Can you point me to the type of molex connector/pins I'll need? I've never owned a Stern and am not that familiar with connectors to begin with. Thanks for the info!

I believe this kit will work for you.http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl...e=googleps
Not sure about needing a krimper to krimp wires, that you will need to buy, to the male or female pins. I haven't bought one of these kits, but I normally buy the adapters from pinball life. They take their website down for holidays so I can't show you that splitter. Dumb.

You should check the new code out when you get the chance. All the games are at least started, although the tanks are farthest along. The text screens are 100% done. The map needs to do the counter, cursor and icons for visited areas.

I completely rewrote the static because I thought I could save room, but I only saved 10 bytes out of about 500. At least it doesn't flash during the MCP game now though.