The taste of promise: Baileys of Glenrowan Organic Shiraz 2016

Baileys of Glenrowan Organic Shiraz 2016

The Baileys of Glenrowan vineyard is a sleeping giant. A 144ha, certified organic vineyard with vines over a century old.

That’s a large organic plot.

At one stage it was Treasury’s largest certified organic vineyard. Yet that didn’t stop the constant talk of when Baileys would be sold. For years, it was another ‘asset’ to be offloaded…

Then, finally, it happened, but with the right result, as the Casella family stepped in with a promise to give this heritage brand more of the love it deserves (much like the Peter Lehmann story).

We’re now 18 months into the Casella-backed Baileys era, so probably too early for significant changes. But the wines are good. They’re real, they’re regional, and they’re anything but overdone. The place oozes with history and potential, and with fellow Dookie alumni Paul Dahlenburg (also one half of Eldorado Road) still driving things forward, it’s all coming up Milhouse.

This red is just as clever. It’s deep and dark and ripe in a northern Victorian mode, But it’s not heavy, not cooked, not raisined. Just inky black. Licoricey and dark berried. Full, but moderate too. There’s real satisfaction in the dense but not style here. And at a great price too. Best drinking: Now to ten years plus. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $27. Would I buy it? Worth sharing a bottle.

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I was a little surprised when Casella bought Bailey’s. I thought it would be a little too close to what was offered at Morris with the Northern Victorian style reds and a healthy dose of fortifieds. At least they seem to understand that the history of both brands is important and aren’t trying to mess things up.

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About me – Andrew Graham

At 18 I started working in a small suburban bottleshop, largely to buy cheap beer. It was my first year of university, doing a degree that I didn't really like, and a liquor shop seemed like fun. Needless to say I discovered wine, my uni degree morphed into something completely different and wine/beer took over my life.

Almost twenty years later and I currently spend my days wearing many (wine) hats, mostly as a writer, presenter and marketer.

While wearing my writer cap I write features for the likes of National Liquor News, Gourmet Traveller WINE and the RAS plus I'm a Lifestyle FOOD channel wine expert. Read more about me here or get in touch to book your next wine event with me here.