I just had the LBS replace my old 6-speed FW with a BNIB SunRace 7-speed FW. Along with this swap, I had them replace the crankset, bottom bracket, DT shifters, and chain. I rode the bike home today and as I was getting ready to go inside, I felt a faint intermittent (but consistent) grind/rubbing feeling when coasting. So I got off the bike, picked up the back, and spun the rear tire. The grinding/rubbing sound (barely audible) seems to be coming from the FW and rear hub region. Note, this was not an issue before the 6-speed FW was replaced as it freely spun without any sort of friction.

I wish I could take it all apart to take a look at it myself, but I don't have the tools, nor do I currently have the time to really get inside and see what it could be. Besides, the bike shop will without a doubt take a look into the matter for me, but I won't be able to take it up to them until the end of the coming week or possibly even the following week. Also, I'd like to go in the shop with some ideas as to what the problem might be.

Thanks!

02-08-14, 07:21 PM

bikeman715

There is dirt or metal shavings inside of the freewheel . Since it new , I would take it back to the shop and have them replace it . It shouldn't be this way new . Or you could spray WD-40 into it as you spin it ( between the cone & the moving part ) to flush out whatever is in there and once dry replace with a light oil like triflo as you spin the freewheel .

02-08-14, 07:59 PM

Andrew R Stewart

It's a quick test to isolate the FW from the rest, spinning wise. Remove the chain from the FW, spin the wheel, the FW will spin with the wheel, listen for noise and touch the axle for hub bearing feel. Then place a finger on the FW, it will stop rotating but the wheel will continue to. Listen/feel for the difference.

It's also easy to drip solvent/lube through the FW. A paper towel under it will catch any crap draining out. I'm less quick to blame grit/chips inside. Very possible just poor manufacturing of a low cost part. Andy.

02-08-14, 08:05 PM

JimPz

The one other recommendation I'll make, is do you have a plastic spoke protector behind the freewheel, these can sometimes cause what you are hearing.

02-08-14, 08:46 PM

treal512

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikeman715

There is dirt or metal shavings inside of the freewheel . Since it new , I would take it back to the shop and have them replace it . It shouldn't be this way new . Or you could spray WD-40 into it as you spin it ( between the cone & the moving part ) to flush out whatever is in there and once dry replace with a light oil like triflo as you spin the freewheel .

I may try this if it comes to that. I've also contacted the seller to see if there have been any issues like this with the product.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart

It's a quick test to isolate the FW from the rest, spinning wise. Remove the chain from the FW, spin the wheel, the FW will spin with the wheel, listen for noise and touch the axle for hub bearing feel. Then place a finger on the FW, it will stop rotating but the wheel will continue to. Listen/feel for the difference.

It's also easy to drip solvent/lube through the FW. A paper towel under it will catch any crap draining out. I'm less quick to blame grit/chips inside. Very possible just poor manufacturing of a low cost part. Andy.

I wasn't able to take the chain off the FW, but I did try something similar, perhaps? After lifting the rear and spinning the wheel, I put a finger on the non-drive side axle and then outer hub, and felt nothing out of the ordinary. When I put my fingers on the freewheel cogs, I can almost definitely say that the grind sound and feeling is coming from this part of the bicycle. Is the only way to confirm if there is grit inside the FW to take it off and flood it with WD40?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimPz

The one other recommendation I'll make, is do you have a plastic spoke protector behind the freewheel, these can sometimes cause what you are hearing.

Thanks for the suggestion, Jim. No spoke protector on my bicycle though.

02-08-14, 10:17 PM

hueyhoolihan

Sunrace FWs are very inexpensive. it wouldn't surprise me if it is malfunctioning. i've had several FWs over the years that i had to dispose of soon after purchase for one reason or another. i'd take it back to the LBS and complain (in a Good way :)).

02-08-14, 11:11 PM

treal512

Quote:

Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan

Sunrace FWs are very inexpensive. it wouldn't surprise me if it is malfunctioning. i've had several FWs over the years that i had to dispose of soon after purchase for one reason or another. i'd take it back to the LBS and complain (in a Good way :)).

Yah, I think that is my best option. I've contacted the seller and will be taking my bike into the LBS soon. What a disappointment.

Thanks for the help everyone.

02-09-14, 11:24 AM

bikeman715

As noted in other posts Sunrace are not the greatest . Have the shop put a Shimano 's freewheel on the bike , it shouldn't cost more than the Sunrace one did .

02-09-14, 01:33 PM

treal512

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikeman715

As noted in other posts Sunrace are not the greatest . Have the shop put a Shimano 's freewheel on the bike , it shouldn't cost more than the Sunrace one did .

Good advice, and I would, but sadly I will never buy a Shimano freewheel as long as they continue to aesthetically look like they currently do (plus I don't need a 28T cog [SunRace has a 13-25T FW]). I'd rather try my luck with SunRace and get a few duds in order to preserve the appearance of my older bicycle.

02-09-14, 02:12 PM

peterw_diy

I think this is when somebody is supposed to say something like "A barely audible noise in a $17 freewheel is not unexpected. If you demand silence and < 28t, buy a nice NOS freewheel for $50-$100."

02-09-14, 02:36 PM

bikeman715

Quote:

Originally Posted by treal512

Good advice, and I would, but sadly I will never buy a Shimano freewheel as long as they continue to aesthetically look like they currently do (plus I don't need a 28T cog [SunRace has a 13-25T FW]). I'd rather try my luck with SunRace and get a few duds in order to preserve the appearance of my older bicycle.

I have yet found any Sunrace ' s product that isn't a dud . Sunrace is like buying cheap tools and you know what they say about that .

02-09-14, 02:42 PM

fietsbob

.. might need a bit of mileage, so the balls burnish the races smoother than the factory grinding did.

they are not expensive , will wear out after a while and you get another one .. call it Adequate. :o

02-10-14, 02:35 AM

treal512

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterw_diy

I think this is when somebody is supposed to say something like "A barely audible noise in a $17 freewheel is not unexpected. If you demand silence and < 28t, buy a nice NOS freewheel for $50-$100."

Can't afford it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikeman715

I have yet found any Sunrace ' s product that isn't a dud . Sunrace is like buying cheap tools and you know what they say about that .

Gah, I know they're cheap, but don't tell me stuff like that. Makes me sad, lol. I'm gonna give it a go on a replacement and hope I can prove you wrong. There has to be some well-working SunRace freewheels out there somewhere (over the rainbow). Pleeeeaaaase, God! Haha :cry:

Quote:

Originally Posted by fietsbob

.. might need a bit of mileage, so the balls burnish the races smoother than the factory grinding did.

they are not expensive , will wear out after a while and you get another one .. call it Adequate. :o

:thumb:

02-13-14, 09:23 PM

dohc97

wish i had known about this, i could have tried to take my butter smooth freewheel off my wheel when i sent the shifters. did you get any pics of the bike?