Eat to the beat: Taking things nice and slow on the beautiful island of Barbados

Great grub, plenty of dancing, smiling people - Barbados appeals to Barry Rabbetts

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Paradise: Crane Beach, Barbados

I was late. Only two or three minutes, but I was late. So I did what I usually do when I’m late – I ran.

“Whoah, whoah, man. Slow down,” came a voice from further along the path. “What’s the hurry? Nobody runs in Barbados.”

It was said with a broad grin I would come to recognise as a local trademark, but there it was – my first lesson in life on this beautiful Caribbean island.

I may have arrived only two hours earlier, on a flight into Bridgetown, but already I could sense this was going to be a relaxing week.

And so, with the words of the hotel porter fresh in my mind, I slowed down, took in the sounds of the waves crashing on the beach below and whistling frogs and settled into my stay.

I was in Barbados for the island’s Food & Wine and Rum Festival and this was the opening night.

Most visitors here book their holidays for winter sun, luxurious hotels, turquoise waters and sandy beaches.

But Barbados is rightly proud of its food and rum. And the island is at last starting to make a song and (Bajan) dance about it.

Rum stuff: Barry tries a tot

The festival itself is now only in its fourth year, having been launched in 2010, but already it has captured the imagination of food lovers, writers, professionals and those locals who just love their grub. So the launch event – Late Night at the Beach House – was the perfect place to start the four-day party.

Canapes and meat dishes were paired with champagne and New Zealand wine – Barbados does not produce its own.

By the time the local delicacies had been polished off at the buffet it was time to sample two things this island has every reason to shout about – Banks, the beer of Barbados, and rum.

After an evening of getting to know both a lot better it was time for the 30-minute drive back from the west coast to the east and my base for the week, the fabulous Crane Hotel which sits high atop cliffs and a beach regularly voted among the world’s top 10.

After a few hours sleep it was back to the Food & Wine and Rum Festival and the one thing you’re never far away from in Barbados – rum punch.

Next stop the world famous Sandy Lane Hotel. A-list celebrities holiday here as a treat to themselves so, like The Crane Hotel, this is no ordinary hotel by the sea.

While I was here to watch US TV chef Jose Garces give a cookery demonstration – a delicious red snapper and calamari in coconut broth if you’re interested – there was also a chance to enjoy some time by the pool and one of the hotel’s signature cocktails. Later, Brian Smart, head chef at the Crane Hotel’s D’Onofrio’s restaurant, was keen to show off one of his own recipes – the island’s traditional dish of fried fish.

Oistins Friday Night Fish Fry is as well known in Barbados as Sir Garfield Sobers and Rihanna. And while I may not have been able to get to Oistins myself, Brian was more than happy to show us how to make fried mahi mahi with Bajan pepper sauce, his take on a dish which draws tourists and holidaymakers to Oistins every Friday.

The Food & Wine and Rum Festival is held in November (this year’s is planned for 22nd-25th), while temperatures are at a hot but not uncomfortable 30-35C.

Its flagship event is Ambrosia, a chance for 12 chefs to show off sample dishes from their repertoires using local ingredients at the exclusive Lion Castle Polo Estate, all washed down with New World wine, local Mount Gay rum and champagne, and to the beat of some live bands and a DJ.

While the festival lasts for four days, Barbados offers plenty to keep those looking for more than just a sunlounger and a cocktail occupied.

The Crane Hotel is on the east coast, where the scenery is more green and lush than the west. My sea view suite included a kitchen, dining area, lounge, balcony, bathroom with Jacuzzi and large bedroom with four poster bed.

Many more on the ground floor have their own private pools while others in the corners of each building have plunge pools.

Five-star facilities include pools, beach-view restaurants including the incredible Thai/Japanese eatery Zen, the Serenity Spa, an outstanding secluded beach and a Willy Wonka-style glass-fronted lift to take guests there.

So it’s not hard to see why previous guests include the likes of Justin Bieber.

Sweet: Beautiful Sunbury House

A short drive away are Sunbury House – an historic home showing what life was like on a sugar plantation during the 17th and 18th centuries – and St Nicholas Abbey, a former plantation which now produces 12 and eight-year-old rum for tasting and buying.

Both offer impressive tours and food in their restaurants while not far from here is probably the island’s finest viewpoint, Cherry Tree Hill.

If it’s a lively night out you’re after, head to the Holetown area, which offers busy cocktail bars including the excellent Tiki Hut and the bustling nightclub Priva, where locals happily rub shoulders with tourists and show off those famous dance moves (joining in is pretty much compulsory).

Partying aboard the Jolly Roger

And for fun by day, try the Jolly Roger, a “party boat” which leaves Bridgetown on a four-hour cruise along the west coast. It offers two stops for snorkelling, including one 30-minute break to swim with huge turtles, a cooked lunch, unlimited beer and rum punch and the famous “walking the plank” and rope swinging. Then the party gets into full flow for an hour of dancing on the top deck, Bajan style.

The only way to follow that, on my final day in Barbados, was to head for more food. And fine food at that. This Caribbean island is awash with hotels with their own restaurants, making it all too easy never to leave your resort. But if you only eat away from your hotel once on holiday then head to the Fish Pot in St Lucy, at the very north of the island.

With waves lapping at the shore just a few feet from the open windows, a cocktail menu as good as any and fine chilled wine from around the world this really is as good as holiday dining gets. My cumin grilled calamari followed by barracuda was the perfect way to end my culinary tour of Barbados.

This trip had finished just as it had started. Superb Bajan food, chilled wine ... and definitely no running.

Get there

British Airways has 7nts B&B at The Crane, Barbados, from £1,299pp (saves £330pp) flying from Gatwick on Nov 21. Call: 0844 493 0758.