Dorsoduro:
Enoteca San Barnaba

Enoteca San Barnaba has been a favorite but is sadly becoming rather tired. In fact that is the word Sandro, the owner, used when I asked how he was. The food is still delicious. I had meatballs that were yummy in a tomato sauce with appropriate accompaniments. He was fully booked on a Saturday night, mostly with young(er) Italian couples. He has a large wine selection, and the moscato from Pantelleria made a nice conclusion. Not sure they will still be there the next time I visit.

Reviewed by: AnnieNC from NC, review #2789

When: 2007

Fun, casual place with excellent food

I loved this place. Great food and atmosphere, and the owner and his wife are very nice.

The short seasonal menu was very interesting - I had a hard time deciding what to order. I ended up choosing polpettine in umida (meatballs in sauce) with polenta and a side of grilled radicchio. It was a perfect winter meal. The menu includes both meat and fish -my neighbors had rabbit and were raving about it.

Dessert was very interesting: uvetta (raisins) in grappa. Sandro (the owner) told me how to make it: put raisins in “very good white grappa” with some honey, brown sugar, and cinnamon. Let it sit for 10-20 days. It was delicious and packed a punch!

I had water and house wine, and the cost was around 35 euro. I’ll definitely return here next trip.

Reviewed by: cubbies from CA, review #2247

When: 2006

Welcoming enoteca with engaging proprietor and full dinners in the evening.

Directions: From Ca' Rezzonico vaporetto stop, follow the crowd straight up to Campo San Barnaba. Continue straight on Calle Lunga San Barnaba to No. 2736 (past Oniga and La Bitta.)

We have visited Enoteca San Barnaba for a quick bite at lunch or pre-dinner or just a wine or prosecco at the bar, and also for full evening dinners since their opening in 2003. Sandro, the charming proprietor behind the bar and chief waiter, is from Friuli and is also fluent in English and French.

Cicchetti are primarily open faced baguette slices with a wide variety of toppings.

Sandro's wife, Luciana, is head chef with one or two helpers. The menu is short, featuring Friulian specialties. The emphasis is on meat such as roast pork, braised beef, Venetian-style liver, smoked goose, and rabbit plus often a baccala dish. Seasonal vegetables such as raddichio di Treviso are done perfectly. Several desserts are offered but we usually end with the dipping cookies and one of the dessert wines.

There is a wide variety of wines stacked on the surrounding shelves and Sandro is happy to advise. There are 5 tables in the main dining area and often a larger group of 6 or so in the front area near the bar. We often see several tables of French speakers. Reservations have become necessary for many evenings. Dinners for two have ranged from 60€ to 80€.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.