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I am rebuilding the back end of my 86-3door while converting 2wd to 4wd with xt6 5 lug. I am wire wheeling the suspension tube, trailing arms, and backing plates, to por-15 them, and seam weld some of it, and try to fashion end caps on the tube frame to keep the inside from rusting out.

The body is mostly clean, but the wheel arches are bubbly, and there is surface rust appearing in critical placed underneath.

The rear cargo holds are solid, but the body glue is forming rust underneath. I would like to treat as much of the seams without having to remove too much interior, since the interior is 100% intact and clean.

I removed the gas tank to clean all the dirt up, and to do some rust attacking underneath. This car will be my garage queen, as i am applying for collector plates, and this car is 100% original 1986 goodness with grandma immaculate interior, except for the sleeper 4wd conversion with 5 lugs.

Looking good! I will have to get my rump roast down to the shop tomorrow and give you a hand.

As for POR-15 not sticking to a smooth surface, yes it will. I Wire wheeled all 4 of my wheel wells and the entire underside of my EA82 and coated it all, still sticking. I would scuff it up just a little so it does really have something to bond to just for the sake of not having to go back in and fix it.

what about using it after some bodywork on rusted out wheel wells....could you put this stuff on then apply your paint over it?

I have done the entire underside of my car with it and the wheel wells and the bottom half of the doors (On the inside) you can also apply it right over rust, but I would wire wheel it first just to clean it up some.

You might be able to paint over it, I'm not sure how well paint will stick to it. POR-15 dries hard like paint, its not a rubber based coat.

In the pamphlet that comes with the product, they have a topcoat paint that you apply over the por-15 treatment. The other products are like marine clean, to dissolve any grease or loose dirt on the metal.

My biggest tackle is going to be removingor getting behind the rubberized 'rusty jones' coating on the bottom of the car, for the sake at getting to the bare steel, mainly around the seams. Some of the rust-through is caused by salts and moisture to get under the coating and flake it out with the steel.

I would maybe like to seam weld some of the critical areas, where the spot welds and stampings begin to de-laminate as they rust. I would like to do this on all the solid metal that i would expect to rust in the future.

I am also seam welding the tube frame where the mounts are tacked on. There are full seam welds from the factory, but there are other edges that are just overlapped with no weld, that crust can get inside between the layers. I would like to fashion some end caps to keep the insides from rusting out, as it is quite flaky I had the idea of welding them up and filling the inside with enough oil to soak into the rusty flakes and stop oxidization. Same with the trailing arms, since there is rusty flakes shaking around in them, and there are open spots in the stampings on the ends. I have seen these rust out at the seams and split in half.

I have had enough of these cars to see where all the rust starts, and what breaks when it's too rusty. This car is in pretty good shape considering its age and location. Most of the rust on it is sitting rust. I would be the 3rd owner of this car, at 110,000 mi.