Once you have glued that back in place you need to touch each of those connections with a hot soldering iron to make the original solder joint whole again. If you don't feel comfortable doing that by yourself have it done by someone that does feel comfortable doing so.

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A 40 watt pencil-tip iron would be best for small contact areas. The proper way is to redo the solder pad from the back side of the board. The USB pins are copper core, but would not transfer heat to the solder connection quickly.If any solder flows between contact areas, then use a bit of solder wick or stranded copper to suck it away. Keep the tip of the iron wiped. The only solder type for electronics is rosin-core solder. No extra flux should be needed. A golden rule with soldering... "get in and get out with the heat quickly" so as not to damage nearby components.As soon as the solder joint appears to melt, take the iron away.That 'brown glue' likely is a form of epoxy. You could strengthen the fixture with some hot glue where space permits. It is not conductive.

A 40 watt pencil iron is more generally used for 'light' work. But a 60 watt or higher can still do the job. Get a good solid contact, melt the joint, flow a bit of new solder, get out. Solder comes in many sizes, with flux cores. Smaller wire melts faster.Tin/lead solder is not advised for use today.. the fumes can be toxic. Silver/tin solder is the preferred type.Kester® silver/tin rosin-core solder in a 1 lb. roll is about $25.00 USD.

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