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Preparation

To prepare fish: Cut fish crosswise into 3 equal portions. Sprinkle both sides with salt. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.

Place a paper towel-lined plate next to the stove. Heat oil in a large skillet over high heat until it’s shimmering. Carefully add one portion of fish and cook for 8 seconds. Using a large spatula in one hand and a fork in the other, very carefully turn the fish over and cook for 8 seconds more. Remove to the plate. Repeat with the remaining two portions of fish, cooking one at a time. Let cool.

Cut the fish across the grain into very thin slices. For the prettiest slices, position the knife on the fish starting at the side opposite you and, in one fluid motion, pull the knife toward you through the fish.

To prepare hand rolls: Cut out the center rib from each chard leaf, leaving two long pieces of chard. Drop the leaves into a pot of boiling water just until they soften, 20 to 30 seconds. Transfer to a bowl of ice water to cool. (Leave the pot of boiling water on the stove.) Spread the leaves out on a clean towel; pat dry with another towel. Add asparagus to the boiling water and cook until bright green, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of ice water to cool. Drain well; pat dry.

Place one piece of chard leaf on a clean cutting board. Place 3 to 4 slices fish, 4 strips each of carrot and tomato, 4 cilantro sprigs, 2 asparagus spears, 2 mango slices and a big pinch of sprouts on the bottom 2 to 3 inches of the leaf, allowing the longer ingredients to overhang one side.

Roll and tuck the chard leaf around the ingredients so it’s rolled closed on one side and left open on the opposite side, similar to the shape of an ice cream cone. Trim the bottom of the roll, if necessary, for a flat base. Serve standing upright.