Our critics pick the best eateries in five essential categoriesBy the editors and Irene Sax

Grimaldi's Pizzeria

New York is known for its pizza, but the vast majority of the pies available in the city make you wonder why. Not so at Grimaldi's, an institution near Brooklyn's gorgeous waterfront views of Manhattan and the borough's namesake bridge. The waits outside are long, but once you get a table (with red and white checked tablecloths, of course) the wait for pure pizza perfection is brief: The scorching 800-degree heat of the coal-fueled brick oven quickly bubbles the real mozzarella, allowing the freshly made sweet-but-not-too-sweet tomato sauce to peek through, and crisps and chars the chewy, thin-but-not-too-thin crust. These beautiful pies need no adornment, but straightforward toppings (read: no BBQ chicken or goat cheese) such as sausage, black olives, and fresh basil are excellent. Service is speedy but friendly enough, and dessert is just a few blocks away at the Brooklyn Ice Cream factory or Jacques Torres Chocolates. — MS

Courtesy of Barney Greengrass

Barney Greengrass

That this old-school Jewish appetizing store now has a location in Beverly Hills speaks to the supernal power of sturgeon. Since the original New York shop opened in 1908, no other restaurant has trafficked in such high-quality smoked fish. Add to that toasted bialys, chocolate babka, and excellent chopped liver, and you can see why the timeworn dining room, jammed with rickety tables, teems with Upper West Siders during brunch hours. Once inside, you may spot Anthony Bourdain digging into an omelette packed with caramelized onions and salty lox — if you had come decades ago you might have seen Alfred Hitchcock or Groucho Marx doing the same. — JG

Courtesy of Gramercy Tavern

Gramercy Tavern

Before Tom Colicchio had a steakhouse in Vegas and hosted a TV show, he was cooking bold and creative food at Gramercy Tavern, the restaurant that took the starch out of New York fine dining. He left in 2006 to focus on his growing Craft empire, but executive chef Michael Anthony continues to put out exciting seasonal dishes such as braised bacon with sugar snap peas and peaches and salt-baked king salmon. The bare wood tabletops of the raucous, no-reservations front room give way to white tablecloths, a more sedate scene, and a prix-fixe in the back. But wherever you sit, you're treated to Gramercy's trademark hospitality. — JG

by Yura Dashevsky

Katz's Delicatessen

Sure, it's tacky, noisy, and rushed. Sure, the Formica is worn, the service gruff, and the sandwiches way too big. But New York wouldn't be New York without this classic Jewish deli and its kosher-style corned beef, snappy old-school hot dogs, chopped liver, and pastrami. Remember When Harry Met Sally? This is where the "I'll have what she's having" scene was filmed. P.S. Don't forget to tip your carver. — IS

Courtesy of Peter Luger

Peter Luger

The menu is limited, the service can be brusque, and unless you have a house account, you have to bring cash. But none of that stops Manhattanites from cabbing to this old-time, wood-paneled steak house on a once-dusty but now rapidly gentrifying Brooklyn block. Everything — from the butter-bathed porterhouse to the creamed spinach to the onion-sweetened home fries — is, in a word, prime. At lunch only, they serve a ten-ounce burger that's made from the same well-aged meat. — IS

Note: All restaurant information subject to change without notice. Please contact the restaurant for the most current information.