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ya i have it setup sub/midbass and tweeter/midrange. the tweeter/midrange might be the issue. actually its only the midrange channels and i've already ruled out the amp. So that leaves signal from the dsp or the speakers themselves.

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Didn't get to the minidsp troubleshooting yet but I did figure out another problem I was having. I have air leaking through the right front door channel seal which causing whistling at speeds over 60mph. Spent some time taping off different portions of the window and door seal till i figured out where the failure was.

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Didn't get to the minidsp troubleshooting yet but I did figure out another problem I was having. I have air leaking through the right front door channel seal which causing whistling at speeds over 60mph. Spent some time taping off different portions of the window and door seal till i figured out where the failure was.

complete halt on the project? I want to know whats up with the ride... I might be doing something similar or.... finding some place to hide my 80PRS in my Mazda 3...

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Well I think its time to start updating this thread again. I took a bit of a break from car audio stuff over the last year or so. In Dec 2016 I was laid off from my job in Illinois and moved to Michigan. Two months later I was offered my position back at my previous job and decided to take it. I'm not a big fan of central IL but the work is considerably more interesting.

In 2016-2017 I made a few undocumented upgrades to the car, I swapped out the two minidsp 2x4 units for a minidsp 6x8. Shame I didn't see that dayton audio DSP (perhaps it wasn't out then) but seems like a better deal. I also swapped out the two 2-channel amps that powered the tweeters and midrange drivers w/ a ppi900.4. A few months later I was jumping the car and blew the amp. Not exactly sure why it blew, it was purchased used but I suspect that I it blew because I keyed the car on, connected the battery jumper, and then started the car. Perhaps the voltage drop during the engine crank zapped it. Anyways, I replaced it with a nvx800.4 since you can not find the ppi amps anywhere (and I think I grabbed it from the ssa store, iirc).

In 2017 I had to address some significant rust issues with the rocker panels that almost pushed me towards buying a new vehicle. I decided that "repairing" would be a better option as the cost to own a low mileage (2001 w/ 75k mi.) GM sedan is pretty cheap. I cut the rocker panels off below the door seam, separated the pinch weld, and attached a new rocker panel with 3m panel bonding adhesive and self taping screws. Obviously not the correct way to do it but I only drive 15 miles round trip to work and put a whoppping 5k miles on the car last year.

I also pulled the fiberglass panels out with the intention to re-upholstery them. But, I haven't gotten to it yet. My original upholstery job looked decent, I managed to get a decent color match with a spray dye/color coat product. But the summer heat caused the glue to fail. I got some tonneau cover adhesive that I hope will work better.

Anyways, future plans for the car are to move the midrange drivers up to the A pillar to address some issues with the frequency response from the driver side kick panel. I plan to try out some Markaudio drivers or use my Tangband w4s. I will probably not use a tweeter but I have several lying around if needed. The sls 8s might be swapped out if I cant get the 4" midrange to play low enough.

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I tell you what, the adhesive repair is actually stronger than spot welding. It creates a molecular bond along the entire seam versus just spot welding and seam sealing. MUCH better. Ask any quality body man. Those W-body rockers are a MFer!

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I tell you what, the adhesive repair is actually stronger than spot welding. It creates a molecular bond along the entire seam versus just spot welding and seam sealing. MUCH better. Ask any quality body man. Those W-body rockers are a MFer!

Unfortunately, both the inner and outer rocker panel rusted through so its good that I was able to add some of the structural integrity back. I made sure to cover any exposed metal with por15 and bed liner so it should hold up longer then I intend to keep the car.

Edited December 26, 2018 by lithium

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I run the w4's as FR's in my office. Beastly little guys....but the sweet spot is REALLY small. In a car I would add a tweeter, but you could probably do it passively and simply without too much concern and make it work. Would need an Lpad and a couple components.

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Quick update. Started building the speaker/tweeter pods. Current internal volume available is about 56 in^3, with polyfill it would add a little bit more to that effectively. I could go larger if needed. You lose quite a bit of volume to wall thickness with the pvc pipe.

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I think I paid less than 300 on the cr-10 but I had to spend more to put in new fans and isolating/dampening mounts on the x and y motors. It was too loud to operate in my 1 bed room apt otherwise. I plan to print some of the parts for these pods in abs later this year. But I will likely have to make some modifications to the printer to print in abs. Most ppl build an enclosure around the printer to keep temps higher I believe. I went back and forth between the cr-10 and the prusa i3 mk2 when I was shopping for printers.

Not quite sure what happened to the nd20. The dome is hard/brittle to the touch. Perhaps it was exposed to some chemical or light.. it slightly discolored as well

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Quick update. I made a holder for a cheap laser pointer. The laser isn't pointed straight so in practice you have to rotate the laser pointer in the holder, this makes a circle on the object your aiming it at so you can estimate the center point. Not ideal but it works.

Quick update. I made a holder for a cheap laser pointer. The laser isn't pointed straight so in practice you have to rotate the laser pointer in the holder, this makes a circle on the object your aiming it at so you can estimate the center point. Not ideal but it works.

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I was trying to spec out a large enclosure car audio build. I am working in the range of greater than 13ft^3, but less than 14ft^3(depending on speaker displacement and thickness of mounting.
I am unable to respec the box dimensions. I was wondering if this box would be capable of working with two IB315's or if this is too little of a volume for proper operation. I am looking at a QTC of between .735 and .75 depending on just how much space I lose to sub, sound proofing, and wood displacement(not sure if this calculation would stay the same with two subs sharing the same volume?).
My desire for an IB setup is low power requirement needs, and using the box as built.
Thanks for any info.