Upping the Ante at Adelaide Casino's North

IF I were a betting woman, I'd lay good odds most of the lunchtime crowd at North, in the Adelaide Casino, are keen gamblers, yes, but many more are government and office workers along the North Tce, Parliament House strip.

But there's no picking the evening crowd. This finer diner on the corner of North Tce and Station Rd is separated from its Adelaide Casino parent, with its own entrance, so you don't need to feel like a gambler to dine.

By night, North's casual daytime and earlybird pasta and steak menu morphs into an interesting finer-dining card steered by head chef of about three years, Sato Kikuchi.

A snapshot of his Japanese background sits prettily on the plates, designed as much for the eyes as for the palate.

It's a tad finer-dining pricey too, but surely the location is ideal for celebrations and a bigger night out.

Yet, on this coolish Friday night, the alfresco tables are empty and, inexplicably, it's also quiet inside the restaurant.

A smattering of tables is filled with a mix of diners, from a charming family group, a few romantic couples, plus two tipsy, obvious newlyweds - who, in the spirit of the casino setting, we wager also may be nouveau riche tourists, if not high rollers.

But the expected, colourful stream of diners from the casino side never eventuates, so we enjoy a quiet time, a little short on atmosphere, in this corner of the grand old railway building where the lofty, ornately-curved Victorian ceilings have been preserved, alongside an industrious, long mod bar framed by a towering open timber/metal wall of wine.

Smart young staff are friendly and efficient enough, keeping glasses filled and plates on the move.

We've sampled some of Sato's food before, and are torn between favourites, and testing the rest of the list, sure signs of a well-written menu.

The wine list also absorbs lengthy decision-making time. It's comprehensive, SA focused but with a clever mix of quality from interstate and overseas, plus plenty by the glass. A pinot seems to fit the varied food choices around the table, so we take a Stefano Lubiana Primavera from Tasmania.

Several renditions of freshly-shucked oysters feature on the entrees. You can order them singularly: natural with lime, kilpatrick or florentine, all fresh if not singing loud ocean zing.

Seared tuna, dry at the edges but nicely rare, comes with plump oyster beignets and a courgette ribbon confection with wasabi-port reduction and yuzu jumping party-style on the tongue.

The entree tasting plate of marron, caramelised scallop, oyster (overpowered by marmalade-like sauce) is a try-hard triangular plate, with each sitting on a clumsy bulk of frilly undressed greens.

Another hiccup is in the pork belly which is packed with flavour, but marred by meat short of soft and tender under the crisp lid. It's saved by a luscious celeriac salad.

We pick two standout mains: the lamb rack, perfectly pink, set on a puy lentil salad which lends earthy texture to a smear of aubergine puree, sided by broccolini. They would be enough for a jolly good roast, but Sato takes things up several notches with a long list of sweet and edgy flavours not least mustard, but also a fabulous mint gremolata and a crunchy dusting of bacon crumble. It's hard to decide which way to swish the next morsel of meat to scoop it all up.

Then, a beef eye fillet tastes as good as it looks, set in a row with a fondant stack of potato, sweet potato and beetroot to one side, asparagus and char-grilled artichoke to the other. There's a trail of spiced chutney, and a topping of impossibly thin noodly carrots more integral to the medley of tastes than as a garnish.

Our little jury is out on the duck. The breast just past pink with a nice little salty seasoning, and a unanimous tick for duck sausage to the side, but they sit on a sort of tropical mix of saffron rice, zucchini, lychee, and coriander pulled together with a red curry sauce that turns out to be a love-it or hate-it touch.

Desserts also carry Sato's finesse. Mango and cardamom creme brulee is sensationally smooth under a cracker top, and Valrhona chocolate terrine and terrific crushed pistachios are a magic match with saffron poached pear and boozy cream.

It has been a pleasant night. Alas, home time is delayed because the staff are not so well versed on a reward-card system offered across the casino. On arrival, we were advised to sign up, which proves a worthwhile tip, saving us nearly two thirds on the valet parking cost and $40 on our dining bill. Next time, we'll know to order the car when dessert arrives rather than having a 45-minute wait. "Feel free to wait inside," offers the valet.