NEW FORMAL PLUMAGE

July 22, 1956

It was probably inevitable. The golfer who just made a sartorial splash on the golf course in a pair of red plaid slacks would not be a man to give up his new freedom of plumage overnight. This new and rugged individualist has inspired even old-line traditionalists in the evening-clothes business. This summer for the first time he has ample choice of bright colors for formal occasions—the country club dance, or a formal dinner party beside a swimming pool.

And there's more than color in this new era of casual elegance. There are Bermuda-length dinner shorts, with formal ribbon stripe down each abbreviated leg. There is the waist-length mess jacket which looks like a jaunty fashion comeback. The traditional cummerbund is enlivened in color and diminished in weight by the use of cool madras or cotton broadcloth. And informal evening shirts now bear rows of pin tucking and lace.

The individualist's approach is important in women's summer evening clothes, too. The proper combination of informality and elegance can be achieved by wearing a floor-length version of an informal dress—say a silk shirt, or a full separate skirt of casual cotton print batik or madras worn with a décolleté sun-type top.

The All-Star Game marks the halfway point of the season. It was a good game, followed by a good baseball week—one of heroics, arguments and oddities. Milwaukee opened daylight at the top of the National League standings. Old Mel Parnell earned a $500 raise by pitching a no-hitter, and Robin Roberts shut out the powerful Redlegs in 98 minutes. At Wrigley Field the bean ball made a brazen reappearance. Washington's Connie Grob won a game with one pitch, and in St. Louis there was a long rhubarb when the umpires disagreed. But the biggest news item of the week was unmistakable: the Yankees are in.

Color is the quickest way to be up to date. Alfred Jollon's "sundown coat" and dinner trousers (Palm Beach, $48) are further dandified with a knife-pleated-bosom shirt (Arrow, $6) and madras cummerbund and tie like those worn above. Barbara Blount's dinner dress is a floor-length silk shirt (Claire McCardell, $60).

Mess jacket of white silk (After Six, $55) is teamed by John Wilson with a pique-formal shirt with double rows of lace (Arrow, $8) and cummerbund and tie with Coast Guard signals (Royal Elastic, $10).