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i am very interested in tightening up the back of my wrx, and with so many options i am wondering what comments those at perrin have about the heated comparison of theirs and others kits. it seems like Tic has full bushings and the whiteline lock down is a solid bolt, unlike the perrin and tic. my end goal with the car is full out track prepped and timed lap car, so what assurances can you offer that your cheaper sls, can stand up compared to full bushings and solid bolts? do you offer any warranty if your lockdown bolts break or the insert breaks? here is one discussion i have been following.

This is going to sound stupid, but here you go. I bought Kartboy Botox Bolts recently, and went to go install them, not realizing that the PO had already installed Perrin Lockout Bolts. Not knowing what those looked like (until now), I decided to remove the bolts that were currently in the subframe. Used an impact to remove the driver side.

Came out easy, realized that I must have pull out a locking subframe bolt and decided to put it back in.

At about 3/4 of thew way in, the bolt starts spinning fast. Something snapped in there. The bolt moved in and out about 1/2" but wont come all the way out.

I'm stuck with a spinning sub frame bolt. Not sure what broke in there, or even what the hole is welded to, or if the bolt snapped in half.

Any ideas on how to get it out? Tried to use a prybar on the bolt head but it wasnt moving.

Sorry to hear about your bolt. It seems like that you broke the weld on the nut in the subframe. That nut is held on just with two small welds, and could break if it's overtightened, or the bolt going through it are marred up. The only way to fix it would be to get it from the top, which would require drilling a hole in the trunk above the nut.

I just did the Perrin rear differential lockdown kit yesterday I have one question installing the lockdown bolts driver side the bolt threaded into the empty hole all the way up to the next of the bolt head but on the passenger side it threaded a bit less. I couldn't turn the bolt anymore even with a 3ft breaker bar for more leverage. Is this normal or should I re thread the hole. I took the bolt out several times to make sure it wasn't cross treaded.

Masters, it could be that either the bolt or the nut is stripped, or maybe there's something in the hole? You don't want to put too much pressure on it, since it could break the welds on the nut in the subframe.

Our rear diff lockdown will add some whine under hard acceleration and low RPM, but it will reduce a lot of movement! The subframe lockdown will only add little NVH since it includes mostly bolts.

Sorry, I am a little confused now. Can you explain which lockdown kit (differential or subframe) contribute the most to the elimination of the 1st to 2nd gear clunk on a 2011 STi.... I am not sure I like the whine of the rear diff lockdown kit and would like to understand what benefit this kit brings and what I am trading off. Thanks

I'd say that the subframe lockdown kit will do the most to get rid of the 1st to 2nd clunk. The white from the diff lockdown kit actually isn't too bad, you don't really hear it unless you're really getting on it. Thanks!

I'd say that the subframe lockdown kit will do the most to get rid of the 1st to 2nd clunk. The white from the diff lockdown kit actually isn't too bad, you don't really hear it unless you're really getting on it. Thanks!

Thanks for the lighten fast response. If I want to stiffen the drivetrain in stages, I would guess one would do the subframe lockdown first and the engine mount last ??

What order do you recommend for installing the following components to get a progressive improvement ? subframe lockdown, rear diff lockdown, Transmission Mount, pitch stop mount, engine mount.....feel free to add more bushing/mount in the mix

I put this set up in my 1998 Impreza L a few days ago. I was able to use the outrigger bushings, and subframe lock bolts with no issues. All I did for the subframe bolt holes was run a tap through the threads, and install bolts with copper anti seize. Those went in without drama.

The tricky part was the actual differential bushings on the rear of the diff. My car dosnt have the diff support, the bushings are actually in the subframe. So I double nutted, pulled out the old studs from the diff, and used the perrin diff bushings between the diff and subframe. 2 of the 4 fit perfectly. The other 2 bushings couldnt be used on the rear of the stock bushings without a washer to hold them in place...

The washers cost $3.50 for the pack of 8 shown. Perrin, it would cost you less than 88 cents to make this kit fit all the GF/GC chassis cars as well!

Here are the pics of the washers and installed bushings:

This was a very informative post.

Now my question... Would this same procedure also apply to my '98 Impreza, the difference being that it's a JDM STi wagon?

Last edited by Vancouver98STi; 04-14-2017 at 04:57 PM.
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