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Built a louver press a while back and now a cnc plasma table kinda ghetto bit they work well.

I still have to make my slats for the table just don't really have the scrap pieces to make it yet lol

02-12-2012 10:49 AM

topwrench

Im too busy copying a lot of these to post !

01-01-2012 01:02 AM

mi chael

We have those reels down under here in Australia already with the ring on the outside. We just buy them and connect the hose/cable/etc to it. No fuss and simple as!!

12-31-2011 05:31 PM

eastsidebuzz

Quote:

Originally Posted by graydog

Harbor Freight sells this hose roller for $20 / $10 or $12 on sale. The problem is the hose hangs up on the eight fingers, making it difficult to roll up hose. I have bought and modified 4 of them by adding 3/8" hoops I bent around an old 15" wheel. They work great after adding the hoops. Here are photos of before and after adding hoops.

That is so awsome. I use them also and the hose always jumps off of one rung. I love that and will find some metal to do the same thing. That rocks.

12-31-2011 07:15 AM

graydog

Harbor Freight sells this hose roller for $20 / $10 or $12 on sale. The problem is the hose hangs up on the eight fingers, making it difficult to roll up hose. I have bought and modified 4 of them by adding 3/8" hoops I bent around an old 15" wheel. They work great after adding the hoops. Here are photos of before and after adding hoops.

12-26-2011 09:24 AM

S10xGN

Riv-nut Tool...

Hi guys!

Made a new tool over the weekend, a hydraulic press for clinching "Riv-nuts" that are beyond the size capacity of a hand-plier, to be used with my existing HF 4 ton press kit. My hand tool will only do up to #10, anything over that required a "stud, nut, and washers" rig that uses bolt rotation to clinch them. If you've ever done this, you know what p-i-a that can be! I found a small "Enerpac" hollow cylinder on E-Bay ($75), bought a set of mandrels from McMaster-Carr ($13 ea), and made the remaining parts on my old pre-war Atlas lathe. The nosepiece is threaded 3/8-16 to screw into the cylinder, bored 1/4" through and is 3/4" OD x 7/8" long. It is used alone for the 3/8" mandrel and riv-nut. There is a 1/8" spacer for use with the 5/16" rig and that spacer plus an additional 3/16" spacer for the 1/4" rig. The smaller sizes are easy, but the 3/8" nuts takes a pretty good amount of "arm" to press them. I made these pieces from aluminum because I had the stock, but the nosepiece would ideally be from steel, as once the ID is bored, there is only 0.020" wall thickness to the thread's root diameter! It can only work if the nosepiece is screwed flush to the piston so the force is not on the threads...

Russ

07-28-2011 09:03 PM

klutchmaster427

Hey, I posted this tool in the Garage Tools board, and with the recommendation of cboy I'm posting it here too! Hopefully many of you will find this useful!

It's a leaf spring spreader to make installing leaf springs WAY easier.
I decided to do the threaded rod method, and it worked wonders. About $13 for the tube, allthread, nut, and washer. not bad for a tool that is so incredibly helpful with a difficult task.
I did just as described in this thread. I bought a piece of 5/8" all thread, and a piece of square steel tubing just slightly larger than the all thread. 3/4" I believe. Used a couple whacks of a hammer and steel chisel on two opposing sides of one end of the square tubing. basically making one end of the tube look slightly like an hour glass. The point of this was for the two side walls to fold inward instead of outward when I flattened the end. Then I beat the end relatively equal on the other two sides the create somewhat of a chisel tip on one end of the steel tube. Then I used a grinder on one end of the all thread to accomplish the same thing. Thread the nut onto the all thread, stick the washer on it, and slight it inside the tube. Now you have yourself a handy dandy leaf spring stretcher that will save you lots of time when trying to remove or install leaf springs. Just put either end of the stretcher in the crevice near the eye of each side of the leaf spring, tighten the nut, and voila!

Now here come the pictures.
The first few pictures show both ends of the spring spreader so you can see how they were made.

The next two pictures show how both ends are positioned on the leaf spring itself.

And the last two pictures are a before and after, if you will, of the spreader in action.
The first is before the nut has been tightened. The spreader has been extended just long enough to hold it on the leaf spring. In the second picture, the spreader has been extended enough to spread the leaf spring out at least a couple of inches. I didn't measure but you can tell just by looking that the difference is clear. The nut wasn't even getting difficult to turn at this point. This is definitely a great tool to make and keep around.

04-20-2011 12:30 PM

dinger

Quote:

Originally Posted by tech69

I guess I should have used the search engine and added onto this. Sorry for that guys.

No problem, I will merge the threads. I was going to do that last night but I didn't want you to lose the thread entirely...here we go.....

04-20-2011 10:23 AM

tech69

I guess I should have used the search engine and added onto this. Sorry for that guys.

I've made a few tools and love doing it. Would love to make some more but I usually wait til a situation arises to get me to do it. Anyhow, if you made some please show us. Would love to get some ideas and just read about interesting tools guys are making.

These are bits for a palm nailer to be used as a poor man's planisher. They are hardened steel bolts welded onto washers then shaped. The bit in the middle even has a curved face but in all honesty the only bit I found worthy is the square one. If you use the square bit with a shot bag you can get pretty good results. Haven't used the planishing hammer but can tell that the palm nailer in tandem with a shrinking disk can get great results if you have the time to go back and forth for a bit. Unfortunately I have only time for a round or two of both but can tell it gets better with patience.

$2.50

I was looking for a copper magnet all over on line and the only one I found was at eastwood and I heard the magnets fall out and are weak, so I made my own. I got the idea from someone else who used induction magnets but I found magnets that were smaller. Just a 1" copper pipe smashed down, two bolts welded into 1/8" stock and plc adhesive glued to the magnets, which bolt thru copper. Better damn magnet than some china crap. This thing is rugged too. Very handy piece. I will also make a mini one with one magnet and a small copper tab. Just imagine this magnet cut in half.

$6.99

I think everyone has made a pair of tuck shrinkers. I think I should shape the head a bit but it works ok I guess. I need more practice at it so I can't really comment. Maybe I'll get some sheet metal and try to make a bowl or something.

$4.99

The homemade pogo stick kicks arse. Works like a charm and it's a tool I just don't want to pay $100 for when I don't use it everyday, so I made one. Even has the same dimensions as a pogo stick and even a bicycle grip handle at the end. This is before I welded it together. I already used it and it worked like a charm. Still have to glue a piece of rubber tire onto the foot.

$15

I just made these today. I was working on a usual chevy truck fender and anytime the fender lip gets hit they same to always roll inward. It's a pain to fix so I welded two pieces of metal on some deep throat vise grips and so now I'll simply clamp the lip down and twist it into shape. Easy as pie. The other one I did simply cause I know a vise grip with a ring welded onto it comes in handy for multiple purposes. Glad I did this.

$15

04-08-2011 10:52 PM

MRGM

Cool stuff there

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