2-part answer:
FN factory A5 forearms had a strip of wood inlet and glued into the interior of the forearm to strengthen the wood in an area that was prone to cracking. Japanese A5s had a layer of glass cloth epoxied inside the forearm for the same purpose. I do the same as the Japanese A5s, inlet a groove around the interior of the forearm and lay a couple strips of glass cloth wetted with epoxy resin to strengthen the forearm when it is finished.

The buttstock needs to be inletted very closely so that the receiver and recoil buffer spring do not split out the stock under recoil. I inlet the stock, then epoxy bed the small lug on the rear tang, around the tang, and the mating surface of the stock to the receiver. This helps prevent shrinking of the wood and the related stock splitting under recoil, and prevents oil absorption by the wood which is unsightly and softens the wood and eventually leads to cracks around the tang and receiver.

Win Model 70 synthetic stocks are a bear, factory synthtic stocks are often difficult to get good adhesion. Drill several holes in the recoil shield and bed it, and do the same to the rear of the action around the action screw.

I have a Browning .375 A-Bolt and the factory wood stock basically disintegrated from the nasty recoil.

I did quite a lot of research on a replacement stock that could take a pounding and would also provide rock solid bedding for the action.

I decided on a Bell and Carlson Medalist stock.The Medalist is formed around a full length solid aluminum bedding block. Once your action is tourqued down to this thing it is never going to move,no glass bedding needed. This stock holds up to the .375 and should do a great job on your Winchester.

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