Malta

Malta

More than a decade ago, I made my maiden voyage to the Mediterranean island nation of Malta, spending a whirlwind long weekend there. Ten years later, and my husband and I would move to the tiny country, so that Shawn could pursue a year-long educational program at its university. The resulting experience allowed me to soak up copious amounts of sunshine and culture, and taught me how to appreciate a slower pace of life.

From day trips to prehistoric temples, to olive and citrus harvests, and lively festa celebrations, here’s hoping these dispatches help you find your own magic on Malta.

Below, you’ll find my Maltese indexes, as well as specific tips for the islands of Malta and Gozo.

Glimpse rainbow-hued wooden fishing boats in the village of Marsaxlokk, and savor freshly-caught fish. If it’s summertime, watch this world-famous dog and human diving duo in action at St. Peter’s Pool.

Gozo

Admire the sophisticated construction of Malta’s mysterious ‘Temple Builders’ at their largest temple, Ġgantija, which predates Egypt’s Pyramids.

Gawk at the beauty of the Gozitan countryside while strolling atop Victoria’s Cittadella.

Accommodation

When I visited Valletta back in 2006, short-termlodging options were few and far between. Back then, I stayed at the Asti Guesthouse, run by sweet Annie and her family, and situated on atmospheric St. Ursula Street. In recent years, more and more charming boutique hotels and self-catering apartments have appeared on the scene in Valletta (affiliate links), some occupying pretty old palazzi. Since we lived in Valletta, we never had the need to stay elsewhere in the city. Still, Valletta boutique hotels like the Casa Ellul, Trabuxu Boutique Living and 10 Strait Street piqued my curiosity, as they look like they offer a stylish blend of old and new. Airbnb is also an option for finding accommodation. (If you’re new to Airbnb and sign up using this link, we both get $25 in travel credit. Some readers have mentioned that Airbnb modifies the promotion from time to time, so the figure might be a bit more or less.)

Since Valletta is compact, chances are that you’ll find yourself in a convenient spot wherever you choose to stay on the peninsula. Valletta hosts the island’s main bus terminal, so staying there makes day-trips to sites elsewhere on the island convenient. Even if you’re visiting for a long-weekend or city break, there is much to keep you busy in Valletta itself.

While I would wholeheartedly recommend staying in Valletta, it might not be a good fit if you’re planning to spend most of your time at the beach, or if you’re not accustomed to lively surroundings (honking horns, construction noise, and ‘pleasant noise’ – like acoustic guitar and chatter of guests emanating from the wine bars & cafés).

Bus – If you’ll be exploring Malta for a few days or more, you’ll probably want to pick up a multi-use bus card. Depending upon how many days you’re staying, this will likely save you money, and it’ll make bus drivers happy too, since you won’t need to make a cash transaction. Journeys completed within two hours should count as one fare, so save your receipt if you choose to pay with cash. If you’re living in Malta for a longer amount of time, you’re eligible to apply for a residential Tallinja card, which offers even lower fares. Whatever card you choose, use this Journey Planner to map out your excursions. Keep in mind that short distances can be deceiving when it comes to travel times throughout the island! The island is densely populated, and it can take an hour just to go a few kilometers. This is especially true during rush hour, or if there’s just been a heavy storm. (When we first got to Malta in 2015, flooded roads meant that it took us about 2.5 hours to travel just 10 kilometers by bus!)

Malta – Gozo Ferry – It takes about 25 minutes to get from Malta’s ferry terminal (in Ċirkewwa) to Gozo’s terminal (in Mġarr). See the Gozo Channel website for ticket prices as well as a timetable of ferry crossings.

Sliema – Valletta Ferry – It takes about 5 minutes to travel from Valletta’s Marsamxett Harbour to the city of Sliema by ferry. This is considerably faster and more scenic than taking a bus! See the Sliema Ferry website for a timetable and fares.

Valletta – Three Cities Ferry | Dgħajsa– The journey time from Valletta to Vittoriosa (known locally as Birgu) is roughly 5-10 minutes. Alternatively, you can travel by dgħajsa, Malta’s version of a gondola. Dgħajsa drivers congregate near Valletta’s Three Cities ferry point. Like its Sliema Ferry counterpart, a ferry or a dgħajsa is a quicker and more enjoyable way to travel from city to city than by bus. Visit the Three Cities ferry website for a timetable and fares. As for dgħajsas, on one of our crossings by dgħajsa, Shawn and I met ‘Captain Bruce’ who pilots the Pici. He can be reached by mobile at 99 93 33 77. Alternatively, you can schedule a dgħajsa through this website. (I have no experience with this website.)