Through no fault (or thought) of my own, I have just purchased a 360mm Tele-Xenar in a Compound shutter. My other lens on my 4x5 PM Speed is a 135mm Optar in a Wollensak/Graphex shutter.

Of course the original lens/shutter works fine with the PM shutter release. This is the body mounted release on the PM. The problem I have with the Compound shutter is size. It's almost the size of the lens board. I can't even mount it without loosening the shutter release and moving it out of the way.

Now I've made a small clip-on wire to allow the release to work in this moved up position so all I have to do is clip on the wire to use the Graphex, and remove the wire to use the Compound. But this is a bit awkward...

So I was just wondering if anyone else had run into this problem and found a better solution?

On 2001-10-18 21:14, RichS wrote:
Through no fault (or thought) of my own, I have just purchased a 360mm Tele-Xenar in a Compound shutter. My other lens on my 4x5 PM Speed is a 135mm Optar in a Wollensak/Graphex shutter.

Of course the original lens/shutter works fine with the PM shutter release. This is the body mounted release on the PM. The problem I have with the Compound shutter is size. It's almost the size of the lens board. I can't even mount it without loosening the shutter release and moving it out of the way.

Now I've made a small clip-on wire to allow the release to work in this moved up position so all I have to do is clip on the wire to use the Graphex, and remove the wire to use the Compound. But this is a bit awkward...

So I was just wondering if anyone else had run into this problem and found a better solution?

Any ideas would be very welcome...

Thanks...

Rich...

I have similar fit problems with some of my lenses on my 2x3 PM Speed. In particular, Polaroid-Copal #1 press shutters fit fine but interfere with the release. With most of my problematic lenses (the others are in large Graphex shutters) the shutter release just gets in the way. I solved the problem by removing the tab, held on by one set screw, that actually fires the shutter.

Am thinking about removing everything involved in firing the front shutter from the body release. If you want to use your huge lens (and why not use it?), you might consider doing just that and firing the front shutter via a cable release attached to it.

On 2001-10-19 06:29, Dan Fromm wrote:
I have similar fit problems with some of my lenses on my 2x3 PM Speed. In particular, Polaroid-Copal #1 press shutters fit fine but interfere with the release. With most of my problematic lenses (the others are in large Graphex shutters) the shutter release just gets in the way. I solved the problem by removing the tab, held on by one set screw, that actually fires the shutter.

Am thinking about removing everything involved in firing the front shutter from the body release. If you want to use your huge lens (and why not use it?), you might consider doing just that and firing the front shutter via a cable release attached to it.

Cheers,

Dan

I know I could remove the tab, or the whole thing. But part of the reason I wanted a PM model was the body mounted shutter release... It sure helps a lot when hand holding the camera and I do hate to remove a 'feature' on something like this.

My little wire clip does work just fine, for these two lenses anyway. I have two more coming and have no idea how those shutters will fit?

I have thought of more complex 'fixes', like cutting the tab and fitting the two pieces with a small hinge. Or making a new tab altogether that could be more easily repositioned. And at some point I probably will design something better than a bent wire (which is actually just a cut & bent large paper clip!).

But the basic idea is to be able to use all my lens/shutter comos with the body release. And I'll figure out a practical way to di one way or the other

If you're handholding the camera and can't use the body shutter release, you might want to get a grip...

Meaning that you can go to the camera store and buy a handgrip that's designed to hold a shoe-mount flash; many of these feature a hole to thread a cable release through so you can fire the shutter with your left index finger while gripping the grip. These "L" shaped grips screw into the tripod socket of the camera.

I always use one when hand-holding the 2 x 3 Century (which doesn't have a body release), but would use it for stability even if I didn't need the cable release (for me, it works better than the hand strap). Try one; once you get used to it you'll use it every time. Also makes carrying the camera easier.

I just got my "new" lens, a 10 inch commercial Ektar in an Ilex No.4 Acme Synchro shutter. Well, this one's quite a bit larger than the lens board and there's no hope to use the body mount release...

After searching for lenses and seeing the prices, I'm not about to return or discard these two. And they look and seem to work fine, so the release goes. For now anyway. I still have it in my mind to figure our a way to either use it as designed, but modified, or connect it to the cable release on the lens? The important thing is a functioning system, the release will come later...

By the way, any suggestions on a grip? This camera weighs a whole lot more than a 35mm or even my C330. And then there's the dimensions...

By the way, any suggestions on a grip? This camera weighs a whole lot more than a 35mm or even my C330. And then there's the dimensions...

Thanks...

Rich...

The grip I use is an old (25 years) Suntar (can't find a model number); I have one for each of seven cameras of various formats (works great on a TLR like your C330 as well, and is strong as hell; I even used the bottom of one as a prybar once).

Advice? If you're rich, go for the Linhof grip. If not, scout the camera stores & catalogs; I'm sure that these are still made. Just look for one that has a nice fat plastic part for your hand with some moldings for your fingers (not one that's advertised as a "flash bracket" which usually doesn't have a comfortable place for your hand). If you can find one that has a nice molded grip AND a strap to go over the back of your hand, so much the better - it's damn hard to drop a camera with one of those.

It's a personal preference, but I've always found it easier to get a camera of any size to eye level when carrying it by the grip than from a position of having the camera dangling from a strap.

You look cooler that way, too. You'd be amazed, the places you can get in to.

If you want me to shoot a digital pic of the grip for your reference and send it to you, reply to this post with your email address.
________
weed

Last edited by cgoff on Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:50 am; edited 1 time in total

If you want me to shoot a digital pic of the grip for your reference and send it to you, reply to this post with your email address.

Thanks. I was hoping you'd be using a 'new' grip? But a pic of your, since you know the name, would be helpful. I use a great grip on my C330. Molded hand grip with shutter release through it for index finger shooting with a flash shoe on the top. Steel must be 1/4 inch thick and could hold a tank. If I could get another one, I would in a second. Problem? It's almost 30 years old and has no name on it... And who remembers from that long ago? It may have been made for the RB's since they share the bottom plate with the two pins?

Unfortunately, there's absolutely no camera shops around here at all. I've located _one_ in Rochester, but that's an hour's drive...

So, yes please send me a pic if the dimensions fit a graphic. At least it gives me a plce to start...

One of the few accessories or options on a Crown Special was the addition of a cable release holder just above the leather handle. This was nothing more than a plastic two piece grommet/strain relief from the electrical parts bin at the local hardware store. It allowed the cable release to be positioned so that the left thumb could trip the shutter while the right hand was focusing. You'll need to by the cheap cloth covered cable releases as the handles on the expensive ones are too big.

_________________"In order to invent, you need a good imagination and a lot of junk" Thomas Edison

Wrong end of things. The right angle adapter would screw into the lens. Any cable release can do that. It's the other end where you have to push the plunger that counts...

The stock PSG body release uses a type of cable setup, but it ends in a straight vertical rod. A small flat metal plate is clamped onto this rod that faces into the shutter release. With a large shutter, there's no room for this plate and therefore can'e be used.

The alternative we're talking about is basically an 'L' shaped handle grip with a cable release built into the handle. And alternatives to that for mounting a cable release onto the body so you can push the plunger while holding the camera. Modifying the shutter end wouldn't help. Although I did think of modifying the body cable release to a standard cable and screwing that into the shutter. Decided I didn't like the mod though and would be a bit cumbersome (and difficult, and not nice to the camera)...

But you may have solved my problem of mounting the external self timer which doesn't quite fit one of the lenses. The right angle adapter may just fix that! Thanks...