Old Generation Check Engine Lamp or C.E.L. warning lamp The
Tracker
& Sidekick 1989-1995 only USA -and up
to 1998 in Canada. Some cars Vitara's (or others) outside N.America's , run ODB1 until 2001 or 2006.See here, In the U.S.A. 1996 and newer cars with OBD2 . (or Canada 1998 up) These Older 0BD1 cars use this lamp: Jump here now. (a.k.a: Service Engine Soon (SES) lamp or
M.I.L. Malfunction Indicator Lamp)Basic Theory: (For lamp on driving) 1989 to 1995. You can make your own custom hacked scan tool and avoid all this.?
The Power train control module (PCM or ECU) sees gross engine ,
or EFI (fuel or spark an sensor errors) or transmission errors.The lamp glowing, means the ECU has
discovered operational errors running the engine.
In lay terms, the engine
brain is very unhappy. (it is just a small, old , and slow
microprocessor inside ECU)Most errors are stored in the ECU memory (even key off, it remembers them , Dome fuse not blown)
It stores errors in its memory , until you reset
them or they are self corrected.
These errors are called DTC's are diagnostic Trouble Codes.
The ECU can flash the CEL lamp to tell you which errors are stored in
memory.
The
flash codes ended in 1996 (forever) and a scan tool is always necessary
starting in 1996 or 1998 in Canada., (USA EPA OBD2 rules and invention)A Fast click index: 1989-95
only.

I just need to reset my DTC errors
in memory, sorry you can not reset live real errors, ever. Real is
real. Live is real. (and now !)

If the CEL keep flashing all the time, the jumper was left in or the 89/90 fuse called diag, is still planted.

If
the CEL lamp never comes on , the LAMP is burned out, or the ECU
is fried, or the fuse is blown to ECU (engine will not run)

Preamble, and Theory of Operation: (of the
ECU) "short and sweet?"
On board Diagnostics. (by law)
OBD began by laws passed in 1988 for 1991 year the USA in Calif.
ARB and to sell cars state wide, it was best (for Suzuki) to fit all cars,
the same (near).
Suzuki began early in 1989 to meet the 1991 dead line. This ran until
July 1995 last Suzuki cars made with OBD1. (USA)
In the USA this flashing lamp code method ended in 1996, (1998 in Canada or up to 2001 or 2006 in othere countries)
Most information written on OBD, is for OBD2, due to the custom
nature of all OBD1 systems ( and vast differences from one maker to the
next)
On board, Diagnostics, means the ECU monitors the system for errors
full time and is on board the ECU. (It runs tests, finds problmes and records them in memory , all on board)
Today we use a midset of,Old
OBD1 Technology works like OBD2, but has less monitors, and has no
standard scan tools, but uses lamp flash codes (DTC) instead.

OBD1 has no misfire monitors , or CAT monitors, as taught today
for all OBD2 cars. (no Evap monitor none of these, but ours has 1 EGR test)
The only monitoring is "Catastrophic sensor errors?" In many
countries the EGR is missing totally (JDM cars) or is not monitored at
all. (like Canada and rest of world.)
The ECU, starting in 1991 generates all spark and fuel injection for
the engine. (before 1991 , fuel only controls)
The old system is near blind to most errors,
for example it can not tell you, that fuel pressure is too low or too
high. (or the engine has damage "vacuum bounce?") (not even too low car battery like we have today)
It sees just basic dead sensor detections, only. (or gross weak EGR flows) It can not
tell you an injector is dead , leaking or partially clogged, or even that it's shorted or open coil.
It can not tell you sensors are weak. (only dead, eg: stuck high, stuck low...)That means you must
take lots of hand done measurements
to find true cause of failures.

What is a monitor?, well it's just a background process running , very
much like anti-virus software running on your PC today. It's
just watching for things that are dead wrong. (like a Granny in
the rear seat, hey Sonny, the rear tire and wheel just fell off car)
Think of the ECU as 3 processes: Spark generation, fuel injection and
crude monitors. (with some side shows, for EGR op.'s and EVAP
and idle controls)
The ECU can go to limphome or to backup mode, burning a ton of fuel.

The CEL is stuck
on running, so you insert DLC jumper, and it flashes code
51, seems they all do. Carbon packed up in the EGR paths. Some
countries, ECU have no CODE 51 at all !

The lower the DTC number the more serious. A bad EGR
#51
might only cause stalling, pinging or hard starts, but in many cases,
no symptoms at all. (depends on how it fails)

Just jumper the DLC diagnostic pin, key on, see stored
codes, start
car, see stored and Live codes. 12s are good all others are bad.

The CEL must not flash illegal codes (99?) or abort valid
flashing, mid stride. If yes, the ECU
may be bad.

The CEL glowing just key on, means it thinks it's ok , in
the most basic way and some basic sensors are not totally dead,
or stuck.

The CEL out running means little. The ECU has no way
to report weak sensors. Until 1996. (and is still limited,
but much better)

What are the DTC Diagnostic
Trouble Codes? All
you need
is a metal paper clip jumper to see them.Do not waste your time at Autostore X, with a pre
1996 Suzuki of any kind, they
can NOT SCAN IT ! Period ! (but
any one can jumper clip test it )The C.E.L. lamp (or M.I.L, Maintenance indicator
lamp) or S.E.S service engine soon.
Next up , DTC code tables. 1989-95 only.
If you get DTC code 53, see this
new page.

The
Check
Engine Light OBD1 ,
is
glowing while driving? Some times marked SES (Service Eng. Soon).
I will call it a "CEL" from now on. The jumper
works only, in the Suzuki world (GEO Trackers use Suzuki ECU's)
Only on Pre 96 cars, USA or pre 98 cars and Canada or any other out of N.America and up to 2001. (or more) The 1 Cent Code
reader. No
plastic or painted clips work , it must conduct electricity!
Only works on pre 1996 years.
Unbend the above clip and from a "U" and insert it into the correct
pins of the under hood DLC connector, seen at the link Jumper rules,
below.The DLC
(Diagnostic Logic Connector) is where you insert your paper
clip, This DLC located in the engine
bay, near the battery
front edge. or at 4 other places. See next link for them ALL.

The
CEL DTC Flash
Rules : OBD1 only. The Check
Engine Lamp in the dash cluster.1989-1995 USA
only. (Suzuki/Trackers only) The
"Diagnostic Request" jumper of the DLC causes the CEL lamp to flash out
a MORSE code like ( but does not follow
Morse's rules) CODE.

Like USA Cowboy& Indian smoke signals too. Like Tonto did with
his "Sidekick" the Lone Ranger.... "smoke signals 101?"Flash ,short pause, flash-flash, long
pause, repeated, is a HAPPY ECU. (but it never really knows happy, ever, in truth )
The PCM can flash out a whole string of non 12 codes. (unplug all
sensors and see just that)
The DTC errors are presented as FLASH codes. (most cars of this
Era do this and all do it differently ,it's NOT a STANDARD ! at all)

Possible responses of the CEL?: I will call the DTC errors,
just codes.

Key on, no
starting the engine, lamp must glow solid, with no
Paper clip in the DLC connector. (if not glowing , the lamp is
bad
(or defeated) or bad ECU or bad (fuses?)

Install the DLC Jumper clip, it must now flash 12s, or some
other code or a chain of codes. (if the lamp is stuck solid now, the
NAG is active, defeat the Mileage NAG switch.

No
matter what?, these codes must loop and repeat endlessly. No matter how
many, or if only the good code 12. (not looping is wrong)

The flashes must never end early (exception, the first code
may be only partially formed, but all the repeats must be fully formed
codes.) If not the ECU is bad or the battery power is too low. 9V?

Start the engine , the codes will continue to repeat or
even decrease/increase, in number of codes, due to errors
or self
correcting.

You can
get DTC errors, just key on, cranking,
or idling or driving fast/slow. so don't be
afraid to keep the jumper installed and drive, week after week ;even
! (to see intermittent errors)

You are now seeing stored codes
and live codes, repeating, if any, or code 12; the I AM OKAY code. 12
is NORMAL.

Code 51 EGR can take a while to
clear, you must drive fast and with a hot engine, for it to clear
automatically, All errors can clear automatically and in real time !

If you desire to clear memory ,
do a RESET, It also resets the TCM memory,
(tranny)

The jumper clip inserted, may
not show any codes, (no flashing at all) this is bad ECU.. My bad ECU page
covers all this and more.

The
Flashing if random or odd, or not formed correctly or truncated, is the
sign of a bad ECU or power to ECU is weak. (too low voltage , 9v
is too low. 12v is good.)

The
ECU while in BACKUP mode (dead) will freeze CEL lamp, it will not
flash on demand. (ECU board inside, acid damaged?) (the NAG
switch removed works best here)

Example:Flash pause, Flash
flash long
pause. repeat over and over. is 12, and 12 means ECU
thinks ALL IS WELL. OK ! in fact, no live errors or stored errors , at
this moment.
Oddity #1 , that DTC 12 and 21 can only be discerned by the LONG pause
at the end! 12 , long pause, repeat.Comments: Never hot wireany ECU
on any car, or risk $500 to $1500(new) blown ECU.

The ECU can also get acid
damage from the leaking CAPs. 1989 to 1995 only , in the USA and
Canada. Some damage from Acid is not correctable.FAST
LOOK UP of
DTC's:
I see my CEL flashing out DTC codes now , so what do
they
mean?, Click
here for a table of codes:

And
running/or Driving. ( shows
memory of all failures, and any live current failures!)

If the
Request Diagnostics , jumper is in PLACE.

DTC =
Diagnostic Trouble
codes.
DTC's (all errors) can be reset , but can return
if still valid ...Example #1:

A perfectly running
car CEL lamp, behaves like this: OBD1 only.Rules:MUST always Glow at KEY ON "no start"
IF NOT, LOOK HERE
( or ECU
is dead, or lamp is burned out or someone removed it or put tape on
it to hide it.).

This glowing, not running, SIGNIFIES, that
the ECU self tests
have
passed !If the CEL is on while running
, this SIGNIFIES there are
stored/live
DTC's.We then apply the Diag/
DLC jumper , the ECU must send
codes out, or the ECU is dead. If you place a jumper at
anytime key on, and you don't get code 12 or
some other code(s) then the ECU is dead. Code 12 means
NORMAL,
and no errors.A Dead ECU, can in fact start
and run, but are stuck in FAILSAFE
mode
forever. (or worse backup-mode)There is a special chip in the
ECU , just for backup purpose, so you will
almost
never be
stranded. (many times)

The DLC jumper can be placed ,
before or after , KEY ON, Cranking or
Running.ALL codes stored, in memory (
no limit on storage time) will come
streaming (flashing)out. The CEL lamp flashes.The memory can be reset
by
pulling the DOME fuse. If the ECU is sick or in FAILSAFE, the car WILL
get horrible gas mileage.
15 mpg
is reported.Some cranking codes are not
stored. "41.42" But are VERY important to
see in
real time.This ECU only throws DTC codes
for GROSS errors. Opens and
Shorts
! In most cases, the exception is EGR tests.All DTC fails are real. and
true! Trust them,! ( code 51 EGR
can be hard to get cleared, due to its complexity.)

Case in point :, CODE
13: Oxy or O²
If the oxygen sensor B1S1 Bank1 Sensor 1 (left side) and S1
is front, is failing with DTC code 13 stored.
Bank means exhaust manifold bank. (a bank of cylinders)
Bank 1 means left side of cylinder 1 side of a V6, (inline
engines have only bank1) Bank 2 is right side, if engine.Code 13 is very
rare, because it is so insensitive.
On new cars, this is far from true. 96+
This rare code, means the Oxygen sensor is bad, or the fueling rates
are way off, the sensor is stuck at 0v or 0.9V. for too
long. That is all this means. Finding the cause,? Get a new
sensor and find out of engine is gross lean or rich, after.
If your sensor is good (and heater not burned out inside O2) then check
for gross fueling issues.
Too lean or too rich, solve that first, and the oxygen sensor
will wake up.
If the exhaust is cracked, near the 0xy.sensor that sensor will slam to
0volts and freeze there.
There is no B1S2, {sensor 2} only on USA 1996 and newer cars, for
OBD2 compliance.
There are tests that can be done, one is to use a scope on the sensor,
and force fueling rich or lean.
Example. (8v) add propane gas to any intake openings to force a
lean engine richer or pull a 25inch vacuum on the fuel
pressure regulator vacuum port to force lean. (tricks of the
trade) This later trick fools the system in to thinking its on Mount
Everest, and cuts fuel. (thinking as in , the Alan Turing brain )

Rare exceptions to DIAG jumper
locations: (Pre Trackers....)1989: OBD1 only. ( if your car was
made prior to the CAMI plant
starting up
in Canada 3/89 Geo Trackers.
The
Trackers first started here, in Japan actual and used a different
Diag Jumper method changed in the next month.
Japan made the
first Trackers in Japan, then CAMI Canada plant, started up. and
took over full production.
But the fuse box for this 1 month , is a deviant.! The only good indications are code 12.

Flash,
pause, Flash, Flash, pause, repeat. = 12

Code 12 DTC is normal .
( there may be more codes, that flash
away ,
one
after the other like a passing train). OBD1 only.
Do not confuse code 12 with 21. ( a cruel joke from Suzuki
engineers) flash code confusion.
The Errors run in a loop, repeating over and over. same with code 12,
the GOOD code. IT MUST LOOP or the ECU is SICK.

Parting comments:OBD1
only.The ECU on all 89-95 kicks fail 1 time only for bad CAP's.
If the CEL acts odd for any reason, abnormal or you blow FI , IGN coil
fuses,....
BAD CAPACITORS ARE #1 FAILURE ITEM ! SEE MY BAD ECU PAGE FOR DETAILS.

You will not get fuel injection of any kind, unless
you have
spark. ( a built
in safety feature)

Note very carefully code 41 and 42 can be seen , DIAG jumper in
place while
cranking the engine. <<< FANCY TRICK FOR
NO STARTS.
If these flash out during cranking , then you have lost spark or have a
cam sensor or spark signal
failure. ( this is a very special feature in these
old
cars).OBD1
onlySo,
if
your car will not start , be sure to do the DLC jumper and crank test
!!!
The ECU never lies about these.
RPM is in the neighbor hood of 300 RPM cranking, (warm day) {before the
actual sustained engine run}
The ECU will cut fueling for any loss of CMP, (cam sensor) or even the
hint of bad SPARK.
So, never fail to look here, if fuel does not inject. (same with Wide
open throttle, the ECU cuts fuel cranking and WOT is showing at
the TPS angle)

If you
need help, ask
at below link:

Post
them here on the forum:Mind set:
DTC
memory storage issues: This section
is OBD1 only.
This memory is NV RAM, non volatile memory, with battery back up, (yes,
the cars main battery) The ECU has no batteries inside.
Keep in mind that if you get 5 DTC errors, some can be
incorrect. (air leaks can trigger EGR failure codes, on all non
thermo probe type EGR valves. )
There are primary DTC's that must be addressed first. ) (
generally low
numbers , but code 53 is bad news and is primary odd duck)
If your car has been running with battery connected for 5 years CEL ON
running, there
may be many real DTC's stored.
Most OBD1 DTC codes auto clear as faults clear, but
can take many trips.
The EGR fail, is only slow to clear DTC # 51,
this will take
some
driving around
fast and hot. 30-50 mph in some cases.

There are 3 ways to reset all ECU/PCM.If the CEL lamp comes on, then please pull the blink
codes. ( they are very important to trouble shooting)
All DTC's are real, if they persist after pulling the dome
fuse,
then they are for sure real.
The only false codes are:

Engine/ sensors were bad and you fixed it. Now it's
repaired
and the codes
stored, are bogus now. ( but will auto clear soon after start ,in
seconds.)

When the ECU says the TPS, or ECT , or IAT are failing , they
are
!
These are gross fails on all sensors.
The EGR DTC # 51 code takes driving car fast and hot , use RESET to clear.
Other drive off DTC' ( clear while driving) codes are, 24,44,45, and 52
( and yes 51).

There is a secret DTC code for troubleshooting, no
starts. ( cranking and no spark or no CAM
sensor
pulses)
Place DTC jumper as per above, then crank the engine, as you
crank the CEL lamp may
flash out a code 41
or 42 ( CMP , or CAS failure).
This code is never stored in memory , only presented while cranking.
These 2 codes do not lie, the signal is dead or is dropping out 1
out of 10 times (about)

Do not confuse code
12 GOOD with code 21 . ( note: the long
and
short pauses to tell the difference) << amazing that
they did this and not skip over 21. One more nice
trick:
You and drive for a week with the DLC
Diagnostic jumper in place ,
to catch intermittent failures. Code 12 flashing day in and
day
out. Then BINGO GOT YOU!
Do not do that trick, to the timing freeze jumper. or you will burn up
a good CAT. (OBD2 will warn you ,if you do this, but not OBD1)Trick1: you can drive
for a week with the DTC
diagnostic jumper
inserted, just to catch an intermittent DTC !!! DO
IT !The lamp will flash 12 on and on, but then
one day , 1/2 way to work ,
BANG ! code 22. It's real, this
is a true failure. For sure. A DEAD ECU is one that (simplistic)
that Can't glow a good CEL lamp ,
key on, or can't flash code 12, on demand. (or flash some other codes)
no code at all is a bad sign for the ECU.

Never Ground
ECU pins, willy nilly.
for sure grounding the +5vref pin, does blow up a nice ECU. (on the 8v,
this act blows the copper traces off the ECU main board)

Never Drive
with the timing freeze jumper planted. (can
burn up a good CAT) (in 1996+, the ECU will warn you of this act)

Never fail to remove, the NAG
switch before condemning any ECU, for sure, do not buy a new ECU before
removing that useless NAG switch. Please........

DO drive all day with the DIAG jumper planted,
to discover Intermittent bad parts.

What isHOT
wiring?, this is
the
foolish practice, of Jumper'ing the battery terminals (any) to the ECU
pins. DO NOT do that. (any power source or ground)
The big NO NO is hot wiring any ECU output's, never ever, do that.
Eg. injectors, VSV drivers (many) relay drivers. etc.
If you hot wire the Fuel pump relay socket and your finger slips 1/4
inch, boom, kiss off the ECU fuel relay driver, and the same goes
for the MAIN driver.BOOM you let the smoke out. sorry ! you did.Oxygen sensor,
O² , Oxy,
or Lambda Sensors, are all the same part name.
Replace the front sensor at 100,000 miles.How to clear or RESET
these ERROR's , the DTC memory on all cars:

Battery pulls, also
clears Radio Station programming.
IF the DTC comes back now, it's REAL. Real as Real can be.
Sorry the AUTO stores, have no scan tools for pre 1996 Suzuki's.
I hope I saved everyone a ton of grief, and money. Illegitimi
non carborundumJARGON: