Description

This is a great moderate crack route with a roof pull thrown in for fun. Fist/hand jamming through the crack section (tape gloves are a good idea) takes some finesse, but will save you some serious exertion. If your jamming skills aren't up to the task, just power through the crack with laybacking.

Starting in a left-facing corner, follow the wide crack to a shallow cave. After resting your arms here, pull the well-protected roof on great jugs and continue to the top.

Location

Starts about 40' right of Passages.

Protection

Medium to large gear for the crack, smaller stuff for the upper sections. Bolted anchors.

I got a lot of satisfaction out of redpointing this route. Way back when I had only been climbing for a month or two, I tried to climb it on toprope and beat the shit out of myself because I didn't know what jamming was all about. Getting back to it for the first time since I was spanked and leading it clean made me feel all warm and fuzzy!

IMO, extremely disappointing. Jamming the bottom is awkward and tough. The roof is fun. The top is dirty. As for the "Great for the aspiring leader" comment in the DCA, I'd direct aspiring leaders to Prereq or Passages and even some 9s before Sanscrit. I won't repeat.

[Edit:] I did repeat this recently, and was pleasantly surprised. While still not as high quality as the other classic corners (and with its awkwardness and trickiness), it does have some pretty cool moves and variety. Not a good first lead, first 5.8, or easy warmup, but worth doing eventually.

Agreed. Definitely a grunt fest if your jamming isn't up to snuff. This was my first lead at T-wall. I would not recommend it for the aspiring leader unless you've warmed up on a couple of easier routes first.