Katie Gallagher

If Little Red Riding Hood grew up, got angry, and went on a wolf hunt, this is what she'd wear: a dotted Swiss hoodie, a no-nonsense boiled-wool skirt, and an inky black wool coat, its edges dissipating into the laser-cut outlines of spindly winter branches…all the better to camouflage into her surroundings, my dear.

Katie Gallagher showed all this and more dark winter delights in a collection she called The Winter Froze You Away. The dotted Swiss ran throughout the almost all-black collection, its innocence subsumed by something stronger. It showed up sheer (as leggings and second-skin long-sleeved shirts), 3-D (cotton dots on a silk chiffon T-shirt; nubby boiled-wool top-and-skirt combo), and paneled into fine-gauge sweaters. It even ran into the beauty realm, with ombré pointillist nail art. But the biggest step forward for Gallagher in this collection may have been the relative diversity of silhouettes she included. Along with all the body-con pieces, there were garments that left space to breathe, without compromising on witchy allure.