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Looking past that page in that document it looks like the small turbo is on standby for most of the rpm range and the big one does the bulk of the power making.

Isn't the purpose of the smaller turbo to be ready for "immediate" power at the bottom of the power range (because it spools up so quickly)? And then the larger turbo, as you mention, does the heavy lifting beyond that point?

Isn't the purpose of the smaller turbo to be ready for "immediate" power at the bottom of the power range (because it spools up so quickly)? And then the larger turbo, as you mention, does the heavy lifting beyond that point?

Long time no talk. For the JBD we used the dynojet at specialtyZ. You can not compare results from that dyno to another, especially a non-dynojet, as they will vary greatly. If you'd like to get together again at specialtyZ I'd be happy to pay for a dyno comparison of the systems. The JBD is a quick install easy to use type product so we've never been going for the most power with it. But if there really is something else out there making 30hp+ more (which I doubt) even if the install is more involved I would be very happy build a better mouse trap for you more serious guys. We're also working on a D meth kit currently.

Terry,

You know me...I'm always open to suggestions and options. No need for you to pay for the dyno...I'd be happy to throw up the car and the tunes for comparison. I still love the JBD, fwiw, and I still consider myself a very happy owner.

When it comes to the Meth kit, make sure to remember me when it comes time to test it. I have no problems driving up there and getting things set up.

You know me...I'm always open to suggestions and options. No need for you to pay for the dyno...I'd be happy to throw up the car and the tunes for comparison. I still love the JBD, fwiw, and I still consider myself a very happy owner.

When it comes to the Meth kit, make sure to remember me when it comes time to test it. I have no problems driving up there and getting things set up.

Sounds good! FWIW I'm not trying to come down negative on the DTUK I'm sure it's great too. Just want to make sure people who have not tried either are evaluating them on their merits as much as possible. I'll let you know when the meth kit is ready. To be candid it's been bumped a few times on the priority list for various projects like the N55 OCC, N55 intake, N20 tuning, C250 intake, etc, but it will get done sooner or later.

Sounds good! FWIW I'm not trying to come down negative on the DTUK I'm sure it's great too. Just want to make sure people who have not tried either are evaluating them on their merits as much as possible. I'll let you know when the meth kit is ready. To be candid it's been bumped a few times on the priority list for various projects like the N55 OCC, N55 intake, N20 tuning, C250 intake, etc, but it will get done sooner or later.

No worries...we're a patient bunch. And I've never spoken ill about the JBD. As I said above, I still find it an amazing solution to getting more juice out of our diesels, and I still recommend it frequently.

I'd be interested to know which map that's on, actually. The reason I ask is because I've had the car dynoed (HP only) with the DTUK tune, and I peaked at just over 365HP.

Map 3 @ 10%

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snipe656

So which setting seems to not pull any codes or limp mode? I assume it is kind of like the JDB where if you dot get too greedy with the settings then fear of codes/limp should be nonexistent.

As above, I run my car on map 3 @ 10%, code free....tried map 1 at 10% and it was fine, map 1 at 20% was ok .... Only had one reduced power mode, 4 people n the car, hot day, very very heavy loading in 5th gear from low revs

I've nt tried the JBD unit, but I have run the DTUK single system back to back wit the CRD-T system, but very capable and reward you with impressive power gains.
I kept the CRD-T system, it felt alittle sharper, and alittle crisper .... A more remapped feel to the drive of the car.

I'd be be interested in comparing the CRD-T unit I have against the JBD system....as I've done 60,000 + miles in this car on the CRD-T system, and feel I know it quite well. A comparison would be interesting

If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask, if I can answer, I will....

@NotNormal WTF a whole lot of miles of fun traveling wow. I have put 13k in less than year here in Puerto Rico thats 100 miles x 35 miles LOL. Sorry I love driving my DIESEL!!! Anyway finally people are coming to grasp at the potential our BEASTS have and are being unleashed. I am happy the RENNtech flash I have. I almost bought Terry's product which BTW my mechanic here in Puerto Rico sells alot. I support RENNtech's product as well as Terry's and anyone who tries to make our babies drive how they were intended to be driven.

As above, I run my car on map 3 @ 10%, code free....tried map 1 at 10% and it was fine, map 1 at 20% was ok .... Only had one reduced power mode, 4 people n the car, hot day, very very heavy loading in 5th gear from low revs

I've nt tried the JBD unit, but I have run the DTUK single system back to back wit the CRD-T system, but very capable and reward you with impressive power gains.
I kept the CRD-T system, it felt alittle sharper, and alittle crisper .... A more remapped feel to the drive of the car.

I'd be be interested in comparing the CRD-T unit I have against the JBD system....as I've done 60,000 + miles in this car on the CRD-T system, and feel I know it quite well. A comparison would be interesting

If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask, if I can answer, I will....

Regards

Tom

Hey Tom,

Glad to see you found the "other" site!

On your dyno, did you get a bseline? Peak hp # mean little since every dyno spits out different peak hp numbers where some read higher and some read lower. I am interested in are gains from the baseline on the same dyno.

Guys - Tom is the guy that ordered the EGR by-pass for his d. Looking forward to seeing how that goes.

Well....fitted my EGR blank, effortless and simple, as expected.
Done 60 miles or so, stretched my cars legs alittle .... First impressions, marginally quicker spool, seems alittle stronger midrange and has a crisper more constant feel to the power delivery top end too

The shock so far, no engine management light. Although, I'm sure that'll pop up in due course haha

Done about 100 miles now, mixed driving, from town stop start to high speed hard acceleration too.
No lights as yet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cssnms

Hey Tom,

Thanks for the follow up! Did you install or did a shop do that? Can you walk us through the install process?

Also can you post up the link for the part that you purchased?

Hi, yes, sure, I fitted it myself.
Not at all difficult ... One bolt was alittle awkward/fiddly button stress.

*remove engine cover

*removed the central air duct above radatior

*release boost hose from throttle body

*disconnect electrical connector for throttle body

*remove three torques screws (t30)
Throttle body comes off at this point

*undo the jubilee clip on the left of the egr valve

*remove vacuume pipe on right of egr

*undo four 5mm allenkey bolts holding egr on

At this point you have an open inlet manifold and are ready to fit the egr removal pipe

Clean the faces of any oil residue

Refit the egr blank in the reverse process of the above

Please note, you will loose one of the mounting points for the engine cover, but fear not, it doesn't effect it in any way. There are enough bolts on the engine cover to keep it secure and you'll not have any rattles.

Many thanks. Needless to say this is promising! Unfortunately we don't have a tuner here stateside that can code for this (yet). Maybe Evolve has something? But perhaps based on your experience so far it is not needed. Iwould be interested in seeing if your light ever does come on. I realize you are taking the car in to have it tuned for this but man wish I could convince you to drive it another 500 miles or so to see if that damn ses light ever comes on

Is the part sold by the same guy I spoke to a while back and is this part different then the one I was looking at?

Compared to the European version, the high pressure EGR is equipped with the following special features:
 Electric EGR valve with positional feedback
 Temperature sensor before high pressure EGR valve
 EGR cooler with bypass.

The electric actuating system of the EGR valve enables exact metering of the recirculated exhaust gas quantity. In addition, this
quantity is no longer calculated based solely on the signals from the hot-film air mass meter and oxygen sensor but the following
signals are also used:
 Travel of high pressure EGR valve
 Temperature before high pressure EGR valve
 Pressure difference between exhaust gas pressure in the exhaust manifold and boost pressure in the intake manifold.

This enables even more exact control of the EGR rate. The EGR cooler serves the purpose of increasing the efficiency of
the EGR system. However, reaching the operating temperature as fast as possible has priority at low engine temperatures.
In this case, the EGR cooler can be bypassed in order to heat up the combustion chamber faster. For this purpose, there is a bypass
that diverts the flow of the exhaust around the EGR cooler.

This bypass is actuated by a flap which, in turn, is operated by a
vacuum unit. The bypass is either only in the "Open" or "Closed"
position.

Those first 3 items (electric valve, sensor, cooler) make me believe that our EGR is significantly different from the Euro EGR, so we need to tread carefully. I have an image of our EGR part (including the cooler), but I haven't been able to figure out how to get it posted yet.

I'm working on the image, in the meantime, here's a comparison (from realeom) between the U.S. and Euro setups:

U.S.:Euro:

In both drawings, the EGR valve is just aft of part number 7. They appear very similar, even though the U.S. has much more "junk" upstream of the EGR (that's the cooling thing mentioned in my earlier post).

62lincoln, if your egr has the throttle flap and stepper motor in one, then the kit I links above is of no use to you
If the egr is separate to the throttle and is vacuume controlled rather than electronically controlled then it'll be a simple and painless mod to do.

If your egr has electronics directly on it, and/or is part of the throttle flap, it'll be more difficult