Domaine Louis Remy (Morey-Saint-Denis)

Lalou Bize-Leroy purchased the Gevrey-Chambertin based estate of Philippe Remy in 1989 and incorporated its important vineyard holdings into her newly formed Domaine Leroy. As a result of the sale, the Remy name disappeared from the Burgundy landscape. Not well known, however, was the fact that a branch of the Remy family remained in the wine business with a small domaine in Morey-Saint-Denis. In the late 1980’s, Chantal Remy-Rosier, Phillipe’s niece, abandoned a professional career to return home and assist her mother in the running of the Domaine Louis Remy. Located in a pink manor house just below the Clos des Lambrays, this small estate was founded in 1821 and produces an average of 15,000 bottles annually. A large two level cellar holds the domaine’s current production and an extensive library of older vintages. The wines made at Domaine Louis Remy come from excellent parcels in top vineyards, but they are not well known outside of the village.

Although the domaine’s holdings only total 3.5 hectares, they are amazingly well situated. The estate owns two plots in Chambolle-Musingy, both with old vines. Seventy year old vines are located in the lieu-dit Les Fremiers and 40 year old vines in the premier cru Derriere La Grange, (0.47 ha.) which is located just below Les Fuees. In Morey-Saint-Denis, 0.24 hectares are owned in the village portion of Aux Cheseaux, the rest of which is classified as premier cru. Nearly half the selections in the cellar are from grand cru sites. Sizeable plots are located in Clos de la Roche (0.66 ha.) and Latricieres-Chambertin (0.58 ha.), while the estates top cuvee comes from a small parcel in Le Chambertin (0.32 ha.). The vines in the first two vineyards are between 45 and 50 years of age.

The wines made by Chantal are soft and silky when tasted out of barrel and develop well in the bottle. All the wines show a similar style, but the grand crus stand out for depth and richness. The fruit is destemmed before fermentation and the wines are raised in oak, 30% of which is new. Bottling takes place after 24 months. The domaine’s tiny production alleviates any pressure to pursue the press and as a result it is virtually unknown in the U.S. Domaine Louis Remy is blessed with exceptional vineyards, a charming manor house, and reservoir of older vintage lying in its cellar, all of which make it a gem worth discovering.