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I am a new BMW owner and so far have loved the bike. However like many, I found the accessory ports wanting when connecting heated gear. I searched the web for answers but found the responses short for my needs. So for my first post, I would like to add my experience to help others who may do a similar web search. I wanted to add pictures in hope it will assist, but found I was limited to 1.
Suggested skills-Capable of soldering, comfortable with tools and removing componets on the bike.
Tools- T-30 and T25 Torx, wire strippers, 10MM box, #2 Phillips, Small flatblade screwdriver, Butane soldering gun, Digital Multi-Meter
Parts - Centech AP-1, RP-170 relay with harness, 12 GA stranded Red and Black wire, Lock tight Blue, large and small zip wire ties, 1-1/4 x 3 industrial grade velcro patch (stickon type), 1pc screw with nut (I used a 6-32 x 3/4 as i had them), protective tape, shrink tubing to fit over a pair of 12 Ga wires or a single 12Ga wire, and one PC of wood large enough for the AP-1 and relay. (I used a wood floor sample).

I chose to install my fuse and relay unit on a board with velcro to allow access when needed under the seat near the computer. All connections and ends with terminals are soldered and shrink tubed. I verified which wire provided power for my trigger with a mutimeter, and tested the circuit along the way. These steps are not listed but I suggest them. I used the Harness that connects the Acc port to the bike harness to elliminate any OEM plug modifications.

1. Remove luggage and rear rack. This will require you to remove the back turn/tail lights as if you where changing a bulb.
2. Remove the required screws to get to and remove the short wire harness to the accessory port.
3. Cut wires of the harness near the halfway point between the 2 ends. 1 will be the wire harness side used for the triggerand 1 will be the acc port side connected to the AP-1.
4. Mount the AP-1 and relay on the board or what ever you chose.
5. Cut to length and wire the "load" wire from the relay to the Fuse board "+" terminal.
6 Connect the given 10 Ga Black wire to the AP-1 "-" terminal
7. Cut to length and connect the orange trigger from the relay to the positive lead that will connect to the wire harness of the bike on the proper connector from step 3. (used to power the ACC port).
8. Cut long 1 red and 1 black 12 GA wire, strip 1/8 of one end and properly connect to the AP-1. I routed the wires underneath the fuse box, and then added shrinktubing to keep them together. Make sure you align the proper fuse to power your needs. I chose 10A as that is the max rating of the ACC plug per my research.
9. Cut the 12GA wires to length and connect to the remaining connector from step 3 that goes to the acc port.
****of course you could now install additional 12 GA wires to power other items as well at this time. Just cut them long.(I chose 12G as it provides me up to 20Amp at the max distance I would need on the bike)
10. Apply the velcro (male/female) to the board, peel the remaining backing off the velcro and place the board with AP-1 and relay where you want it. Far enough back to be out of the way, but not sticking out where the tail light goes. Hold for a few moments to allow the tape to stick. I would suggest washing the mounting area first and allowing it to dry before applying.
11. Connect the ACC connector to the outlet and the "trigger" wire to the bike's wire harness where it was.
12. Route the 10GA Black and Red wires through the bike, using wire ties
13. Disconnect the Negative from the battery
14. Cut to length and install the end lugs on both the red and black 10Ga wires
15. Install the red wire on the positive terminal first, then install the black on the negetive terminal on the battery
16. Verify all works as desired
17. Re-install parts, add lock tight as you see the need.

I see I am limited to a single photo, so I picked the one that I felt would help best. If anyone would like others, just ask.

I only had one problem. My Zumo wired to the centech will become inoperable randomly. I have to remove the battery from the Zumo to reset it. I talked to garmin, I talked to everyone. I finally isolated it to the Zumo. If you switch power on and off quickly the Zumo goes into a fail safe mode. I can recreate
It manually. So I had to hardwire to battery.
I thought I had a bad unit, then got a new zumo 550. Same
dang problem. So I have yet to get my garmin through the centech to work.
It is better thru the BMW harness but still happens occasionally.

Zumo works great but something about the power curve during relay on freaks it out. Works like a charm direct to battery.

GPS Power issues

Thank you for the comment.

I have the Navigator unit (Garmin 660 I think) , powered by the Bike Harness per the BMW accessory instructions, and have had no issues. Except when my wife and I both tried to power up our limited heated gear through the ACC ports located fore and aft, then we had issues- GPS went off, ports died, it got cold fast...brrr. The Centech solution was to seperate the aft port off the canbus, for future Lights, and other ACC that can not be supported by the limited CanBus system.

I only had one problem. My Zumo wired to the centech will become inoperable randomly. I have to remove the battery from the Zumo to reset it. I talked to garmin, I talked to everyone. I finally isolated it to the Zumo. If you switch power on and off quickly the Zumo goes into a fail safe mode. I can recreate
It manually. So I had to hardwire to battery.
I thought I had a bad unit, then got a new zumo 550. Same
dang problem. So I have yet to get my garmin through the centech to work.
It is better thru the BMW harness but still happens occasionally.

Zumo works great but something about the power curve during relay on freaks it out. Works like a charm direct to battery.

My Zumo 665 is wired to Centech AP2. No such issue. Been over 2 years since installed. It is connected to the switched side.

My Zumo 665 is wired to Centech AP2. No such issue. Been over 2 years since installed. It is connected to the switched side.

Mine was installed to the switched side as well. I can take my 450 or my 550, Attach the ground to the battery. Connect the hot to the battery.
If the unit is on when I do this (running on internal battery), all is well. If not on, it goes into failsafe mode.
These things just do not like switched power, weather it is switched by me touching the hot, or flipping a seperate switch, or a relay.
To get out of failsafe mode, you have to remove from cradle, and remove/replace the internal battery. I spent an hour walking around the Bloomsburg Rally till I found someone with a small allen wrench to remove the GPS battery. (did I mention bloomsburg was HOT!)

In case you are thinking this has anything to do with my bike, I can make it happen on a work bench.

I connected my 450 direct to battery, no further problems.
I connected my 550 to the BMW factory connection, only went failsafe once so far. BTW, my 550 is the BMW branded one.

Garmin thinks I am crazy.

I only included this little bit of Garmin wierdness in this thread in case someone else has this issue. It's not your wiring, your Centech, or your relay.