I just started tying a Mattews X Caddis pattern. This is the first Elk Hair style caddis I have tied, and I'm having trouble tying in the wing. When I pull the thread tight enough to make the hair flair out, it tends to roll around the shank of the hook.

My results have been improving, but I would appreciate any suggestions.

Here are a couple things to experiment with. Hold the hair bunch on top of the hook, wrap the first thread lightly around and when you come back around, place the second wrap lightly again just IN FRONT (toward the eye) of the first wrap, then on the third place it again just IN FRONT (toward the eye) of the second wrap, then tighten down. When you tighten the third wrap and the hair tries to flair, the first two wraps will keep it from flairing too much. Now, this will keep the wing tighter, but won't lessen the tendency for the whole buch to spin around the hook toward the underside. The best way to accomplish that is to fix the wing firmly on top by winding a few more wraps through the butt end, while holding the bunch on top. Another option for securing the hair is to wrap the first one or two wraps over top the hair, then under the hair bunch, but ON TOP of the hook (basically making a bundle without securing to the hook), both wraps are done lightly so as not to flair the hair, then, the third wrap goes around the bunch and under the hook and in front of the other wraps, then tighten. You will still need to hold the hair buch on top of the hook and then run a few wraps through the butts to keep it on top. I don't know if that will help, but I tried.

So to sum up and simplify: hold the bunch on top while you secure through the butts of the hair.

Posted on: 2007/2/28 12:39

_________________Some people will never learn anything, for this reason, because they understand everything too soon.

I used to have a lot of problems with that when I first started too. Jack covered it pretty well. I don't like the method of tying the bunch together before fastening it to the hook shaft though. Just too much trouble. The most important thing, to emphasize what Jack said, is to hold the hair in place on top of the hook. This means the whole time, until you have made a few tight wraps. You can also start wrapping with the butts angled on the near side of the hook, so when you start to wrap they slide to the top of the hook instead of around to the back side.

another thing that helps is to wind a thin layer of dubbing all the way up to just behind the eye before tying the deer hair in.also, to keep the hair from flaring out too much, you can even wind a small dubbing ball a little ways back from the eye.

Jack gave great instructions – follow that procedure. After you made your tight wraps, trim 1/3 of the hair butts off on top and make a few tight wraps over the remaining two thirds. Cut another 1/3 of the hair butts off on top and make a couple more tight wraps. Trim the remaining butts off. You have accomplished two things with these couple cuts and wraps: First, you tapered the butts to reduce bulk, and secondly the wing will not rotate on the hook since it’s cinched down on the hook in smaller separate bundles. It’s a lot of verbiage for a 20 second procedure. Hopefully it’s clear to you. Good luck.

Dryfly's idea of building a base below the hair is a good one. But you don;t have to dub the whole way up if your fly gets bulky. You can simply use the thread to cover the hook and prevent the hair from slipping.

In addition to what's been said, keep the bundle of deer hair sparse. The flyshop Elk Hair Caddis are even too bulky. A sparse wing will let light through, and intermittant light looks like movement. If you can't see through the wing, you are tying in too much deer hair.

Also, there's no reason you HAVE to use deer hair. It does float well, but geez, the fly is hackle from front to back. It'll float. Squirrel Tail, CDC, Snowshoe Rabbit foot... anything long enough to cover the back that doesn't soak up water should work. So you can switch to something that doesn't flair as much.

For really small EHC, you really need to switch from regular deer hair to something less bulky. I like to use comparadun deer hair for caddis of a size 18 or less.

Like Pad said, it don't have to be bulky or even boyant hair. You are probably using too much. When selecting the hair to cut from the pelt, take a little more than a toothpick sized bunch.

Like Tom said...a thread under wrap will help too.

And you can start on the near side of the hook so it rolls to the top when you cinch it. As Wulff said....

All these things are observatory techniques, learned from the experience of many flies tied.

Here is the magic bullet...it is the "Pinch and Cinch". Lie your Toothpick sized bunch on top of the hook, Bring the thread to 12:00 taut, Pinch it against the material, Now take it to 6:00. While still pinching the materail tightly, Cinch it down with a coupla tugs. Still pinching, Take the thread to Noon again and pinch it, And again to supper time and cinch it. Takes two -three wraps and keeps it nicely in top of the hook. This technique will help you control any and all materails you wish to lash to the hook in the spot you place it.

Another way to tame hair for stacking different colors on top of each other without flairing is to put a wrap around the hair once before going around the hook. Makes for nice separation in flies like Dace and Mickey Finns

Tying skill is ALL about thread tension...knowing when to use it and when not to.

Maurice

Posted on: 2007/2/28 23:42

_________________Don't hit me with them negative waves so early in the morning. Think the bridge will be there and it will be there. It's a mother, beautiful bridge, and it's gonna be there. Ok?