You Will Need

Chain 2, and make 11 dc’s in the ring. This gives us a stitch count of 12, including the ch2.

Step 3

Pull the ring closed as to form a circle.

Step 4

Cut the yarn and pull through the stitch.

Step 5

Thread the yarn end through the needle and insert in the first dc you made, through both loops, skipping the ch2.

Step 6

Pull the needle through and now insert it in the back loop of the last stitch you made.

Step 7

Pull the yarn a bit to close the circle, but make sure you don’t pull too hard; we want to keep this faux stitch we just made! :) We’re going to close rounds like this after every round from now on. Finish off.

Step 8

Starting with a slipknot on your hook, creating a standing stitch, crochet 2 dc in one stitch.

Step 9

Crochet 2 dc’s in every stitch. (the stitch count is now 24 dc’s)

Step 10

We’re going to close the round like we did before, so grab your tapestry needle and close the circle, just like in step 5 & 6.

Step 11

That’s round two! :)

Step 12

From now on, we’re going to start every round with a slipknot on our hook and a standing stitch.

Step 13

To avoid creating holes, make sure you don’t start in or increase in the faux stitch we create after each round. If you look at your work you can easily identify the faux stitch by the bump from the slipknot:

Step 14

In round three (and all of the following rounds), we’re going to make increases. To make sure the 2dc don’t end up in the faux stitch, count back from the bump 3 stitches (or whatever number you need to make sure the 2dc doesn’t end up in the faux stitch). If you start with 1 dc now (2nd stitch from the bump), there should also be 1 dc in the faux stitch. You can increase before or after the faux stitch, but not in it!
So: start with standing stitch, then *dc 1, 2dc in next stitch* around. (36 stitches)

Step 15

Finish the round with your tapestry needle and voila, round three! :)

Step 16

Starting with a standing stitch (and counting back from the bump so the 2dc doesn’t end up in the faux stitch), *dc 2, 2dc in next stitch* around and fo. (48 stitches)

Step 17

Starting with a standing stitch, *dc 3, 2dc in next stitch* around and fo. (60 stitches)

Step 18

Starting with a standing stitch, *dc 4, 2dc in next stitch* around and fo. (72 stitches)

Step 19

Starting with a standing stitch, *dc 5, 2dc in next stitch* around and fo. (84 stitches)

Step 20

Starting with a standing stitch, *dc 6, 2dc in next stitch* around and fo. (96 stitches)

Step 21

Starting with a standing stitch, *dc 7, 2dc in next stitch* around and fo. (108 stitches)

Step 22

Starting with a standing stitch, *dc 8, 2dc in next stitch* around and fo. (120 stitches)

Step 23

Starting with a standing stitch, *dc 9, 2dc in next stitch* around and fo. (132 stitches)

Step 24

Starting with a standing stitch, *dc 10, 2dc in next stitch* around and fo. (144 stitches)

Step 25

Your mandala is finished! :) But I usually put a border around it. Here’s how I do it:
Starting with a standing stitch, sc 1.

Step 26

Skip two stitches and then crochet 6 dc in one stitch, to create a shell. Skip two stitches and
sc 1. Continue like this all around. So: *sc 1, skip 2 st, 6dc, skip 2 st*.

Step 27

When you’ve reached the end of the round, make a second sc in the first stitch (where there is already a sc). Don’t cut the yarn, but chain 10, this creates a loop.

Step 28

Make another sc in the first stitch. Cut the yarn, draw through the loop on your hook and bring the yarn end to the back.