Marion Slouch

February 25, 2016

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If you’ve spent any time around my blog, you know how much I loooooove slouch hats. I just can’t get enough of them. I never considered myself a hat person until I created and tried on my first slouchy hat, but from that moment on, I was hooked.

Today, I’m adding another slouchy pattern to my growing collection!

This one is sort of a “sister hat” to the South Haven Slouch. It uses the same basic structure, but I’ve added some cute new detailing between the ribbing sections to create a very different finished look.

For the sample, I used Lion Brand’s LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino Wool in “Cherry”. I love this yarn. It’s only available on Lion Brand’s web site or in their stores, but it’s so worth ordering. It’s the same yarn I used for this gorgeous cowl.

I tried to photograph the hat from a few different angles to really give you a sense of the finished look. Here’s what it looks like from the (angled) front:

And here’s the back. Like the South Haven Slouch, this one has a rippled top that gives it a faux-cinched look.

So grab your hooks and yarn, and let’s get started!

Prefer a PDF?

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THE MARION SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easyish (technically closer to intermediate, but if you’re a confident crocheter and comfortable with reading patterns, you canpull this off!)

Size:One Size Fits Most (Teen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9” tall. I like just a little bit of slouch in my slouch hats, but if you like more, you can add rounds to the body of the hat.

Special Terminology:3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. Instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, reach your hook past the back loop where you’ll find a 3rd loop on the side of the stitch. Insert your hook there to create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. In other patterns it is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or RibHDC.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in joined rounds. You will turn at the beginning of some rounds, and not others. Pay attention!
(3) Even though this pattern is worked in joined rounds, it is recommended that you keep a stitch marker or two handy. I found that placing a stitch marker in the first and last stitches of my rounds really helped me to not get confused about my starting and ending stitches. When working back and forth between regular loops and 3rd loops (beginning on Round 7), it can be hard to tell which stitch is technically your last stitch of the round… and, when we start turning our rounds during the SC+HDC texture in Round 11, it’s just easier to keep track of where to place your stitches.
(4) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(5) It goes without saying, but count your stitches! Once you’re done increasing, you should consistently have 100 stitches per round (until you get to the band).

Round 1: CH1. 10 HDC in MC. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (10)

Round 2: CH1. 2 HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (20)

Round 3: CH1. 2 HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (40)

Note: At this point you should have a floppy-looking circle. This is a good thing. It will continue to get floppier as we increase, and then it will smooth itself out on the body of the hat. That’s how we create the cinched look on the top.

Round 4: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (60)

Round 5: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (80)

Round 6: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 7: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 8: CH1. HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 9: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 10: CH1. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Note: Joining and turning while working in the round is something you don’t see very often in patterns, and that little slip stitch at the end of the round can really throw you off because when you turn, it looks like a stitch… but it’s not, and needs to be ignored. This is where using a stitch marker will really come in handy. Just before you SL ST to the first SC in Round 10, mark your final stitch of the round with a stitch marker (1st photo). Then do your join (2nd photo). When you move on to Round 11, CH1 and turn as per the instructions (3rd photo). When instructed to SK the first ST, you’ll know to skip right over the stitch marker and do your first SC+HDC in the stitch immediately following it (4th photo).

Rounds 11-13: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 14: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 15: CH1, do not turn. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 16: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 17: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 18: CH1. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Rounds 19-21: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 22: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 23: CH1, do not turn. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 24: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 25: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 26: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 27: CH1. (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (90)

Round 28: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (90)

Switch to G hook.

Rounds 29-38: SC around.

Note: At some point around Round 33, you may want to check the band of the hat to see if it’s measuring about 10 inches. If it’s measuring much bigger than that, you may want to grab a smaller hook to finish things off.

Smooth out the round by slip stitching into the first 3 STS of the next round. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Comments

I made your south haven slouch for my cousin and she loved it. Noe I’m trying this one for myself and am really excited. My only concern is the rim of the hat, where it goes down to 90 stitches and the g hook, when it was finished was a bit snug on me. Would it work to make the rim slightly larger if I just completed the hat using only the H hook?

I am trying out your Marion Slouch. I am slightly confused. In directions it says not to turn unless it directed to do so. in row 7 it doesn’t say to turn but you have us crocheting in 3rd loop. don’t I need to turn in order to get to the back of the circle to reach the third loop. sorry I can be a little slow with directions.

You can crochet into the 3rd loop whether it’s facing you or not, but actually, when you don’t turn, it will be positioned where you need to reach over the stitch to get to it. It’s when you turn that the 3rd loop is closest to you. 🙂

Thank you so much for sharing your beautiful impeccable patterns. This is the second of your hats I make, and once again instructions are crystal clear. I just made this slouchy hat in malabrigo silky merino and I’m in love xx

I’ve just finished your Shiplap slouch and cowl as a present for a chilly friend’s Christmas. Thankyou! So now I want to make something for me and I’m tempted by this Marion slouch… but I need a matching cowl… I know you’ve got a bit on your plate just now (!) but, if I go ahead and buy the wool, how much (roughly) should I buy to cope with your pattern when it comes? I don’t mind buying too much! And I don’t mean to add to your to do list. Happy Christmas ?

Hi Rebecca! Absolutely love your site, so many beautiful patterns and ideas! I love this pattern but would like to match the hat to the yarn I used for mitts and a scarf I made using vannas choice yarn. Could I reduce the stitches to get the right sizing? Any suggestions?
Thanks!

Hi Julie! I don’t typically give much advice for adjusting my patterns to different yarn weights (I would if it were a simple answer, but it is typically a lot more involved — almost like writing a new pattern). That said, I can give you some tips! If you have a hat pattern you’ve made with Vanna’s Choice before, I would look at its stitch count for the body rounds and when you increase the Marion Slouch, increase it to that amount. You’ll also want to make sure it’s an even number of stitches so that the SC+HDC pattern works out ok. The Marion Slouch decreases a bit just before the band, so you’ll probably want to do that a bit too. Hope that helps a little 🙂

Hi, I adore this slouch hat!! I was wondering what the stitch/pattern count is. I have a great big head and truly need to add 5 inches to get a good fit. Sigh. If I knew before starting, it might lessen my frogging! ?? Please? Thank you!

That would be a whole other pattern, which is actually on my to do list (I was going to do a cowl but could do a scarf version as well). If you’re in a hurry, I can tell you the basics of it would be just repeating the pattern of the hat, only in row version, and I’d probably seam it at the end.

Hi, thank you very much for the reply. Greatly appreciated! I’m not in a great hurry, but Autumn and the cold weather are fast-approaching here in the UK. I did think it might work in a row version, but I am more used to making Amigurumi, in circles, than accessories so I wasn’t sure. But I am happy to make a start with your advice. Thank you again!

Would you be able to recommend a substitute yarn for this? (or at least the weight) I live in Canada and it will cost me triple the cost of yarn in shipping, if I did order it from the Lion Brand website. I have a Michaels close by where I usually buy my yarn. Love this hat and cannot wait to get started. Thanks!

I know you’re asking Rebecca, but I often have to substitute yarns because I can’t use any animal fibers (allergies). I find that anything in the same weight group seems to work. This pattern calls for a #3/DK yarn, so it should be fine with any #3 yarn. Just my 2 cents (US).

It’s really just a matter of finding another #3 yarn that you like and then checking your gauge (gauge is IMPORTANT). I don’t shop Michael’s enough to know what #3s they have, but I’m sure you will be able to find something. Good luck!

Thanks Rebecca for a lovely pattern. I made mine with Sublime extra fine merino in dk in a a gorgeous rich brown. It is lovely and soft. I really enjoyed the pattern and have learn’t a new stitch too. It’s Autumn now here is Sydney so will be perfect in the coming months. Thanks again. 🙂 Lisa