When it comes to booking a late ski holiday, there’s only one thing that really matters: height. Forget the joys of picturesque valley villages and skiing through forest glades – they’ll be mired in slush by Easter. At this time of year you need to be up among the peaks – and there’s nowhere better for that than the Trois Vallees village of Val Thorens, the highest ski resort in Europe.

The resort itself sits at 2,300 metres, so even the lower runs remain in decent shape, and you don’t have that dispiriting business of skiing home on rocks and grass, or coming down in the lift. From the village, a well-linked system of fast modern lifts rises to top stations of over 3,000 metres, and if temperatures do soar, 40 per cent of the slopes have snow cannons. There are more than 150 kms of pistes in the resort, most blue and red, with a handful of black and green (and some great off-piste when conditions allow), and there are good links to the rest of the Trois Vallees. You can ski straight down the valley to neighbouring Les Menuires, while intermediates can be in Meribel Mottaret in well under an hour – and from there onto the slopes of Courchevel in less time than it takes to down a hot chocolate.

Because of its height Val Thorens can be prone to strong winds and closed lifts – though this is less of a problem in late season. And the resort is well prepared for bad weather with a leisure park (bowls and snooker), a huge sports centre (tennis courts, table tennis, volleyball, swimming pool and a soft play area) and even an ice driving circuit.

Since its opening, 40 years ago this season, the resort has appealed chiefly to keen skiers and boarders, and to a young international crowd, drawn by the impressive terrain park and the lively bars – most famously Folie Douce, on the slopes above the resort, a sea of waving arms, swaying bodies and mountain-trembling music from 2.30pm until the lifts close.

But for skiers wanting a stylish bolthole, Val Thorens has been a bit lacking. True, it’s better-looking than many other French purpose built resorts, and construction has been mostly low- and mid-rise, with judicious use of wood cladding. But while there are plenty of good value rental apartments, and some really excellent three-star hotels, anyone wanting luxury accommodation has tended to head elsewhere in the Trois Vallees.

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Now things are changing. New five-star Savoyard-chalet style apartments, Montana Plein Sud, opened this season, with swimming pool,saunas and steam room. And nearby, on the southern fringes of the resort, is Val Thorens’ first luxury hotel, the Altapura, part of the Sibuet group that also owns the chic Ferme de Marie in Megeve.

Beautifully designed in wood and stone, with funky Scandinavian style furnishings, a large bar with open fires and doors opening onto a piste-side terrace, this has fast become the(ital) place to stay in Val Thorens. While prices are certainly not a steal, it’s less expensive than places of a similar standard in Meribel or Courchevel, and despite its sleek looks, it’s warm and welcoming. In fact the furniture is more stylish than the guests, who are a regular mix of families, couples and small conference groups from all over Europe, plus a smattering of Americans and Russians.

The staff are young and friendly; some absolutely on the button, others not quite at the top of the learning curve – but then this is the first season. There is a ski shop, with access via the bootroom to the slopes, and a lovely spa, with indoor/outdoor pool, steam room,sauna, ice chamber and a good range of treatments (average price 100 euros).

The 88 bedrooms are large, light and comfortable; those in the wing closest to the main piste have the best views. They’re full of gizmos such as an Apple computer and iPod station - but I could have done with more low-tech apparatus - like hooks. Other niggles? The food in the evening, which is fine, but doesn’t match the high price tag, and the all-pervasive music in the public areas.

Not that this would put me off going back. I’d be there in a flash if I could afford it. At the grand old age of 40, Val Thorens can now offer a pretty unbeatable combination of a top class hotel and some of the best late skiing in the Alps.

Getting there

Chambery is the closest airport, served by flybe.com, but you’ll find greater choice, and lower prices, on flights to Geneva, (three hours plus). From there, hire a car, organise a transfer (3vt.co.uk is good), or book a taxi; Algera Taxi (00 33 6 76 22 23 25, ingealgera@orange.fr) is a reliable local service.

Packages

Resort costs

Val Thorens/Orelle six day lift pass: 190.60 euros; Trois Vallées six day pass 244 euros. Buy online through valthorens.com. Ski and boot hire costs from 143.20 euros a week at the Altapura Ski Shop (www.altapuraskishop.com). There are four ski schools - for details and prices see valthorens.com. The ESF charges 144 euros for five morning group lessons. More information on savoie-mont-blanc.com

Best hotels

Hotel des 3 Vallées Run by the same family as the Chalet de la Marine (below), this is another excellent three-star, centrally situated with a small lounge, cosy, wood lined bedrooms and a newly refurbished restaurant. From 115 euros per person a night, half board (00 33 79 00 01 86, hotel3vallees.com.

Sherpa A really well-run three–star near the top of the resort, with a large and cosy lounge area, open fires, a excellent restaurant serving local specialities, simply furnished bedrooms and sauna and steam room. From 91.28 per person per night, half board, in a double room (00 33 4 79 00 00 70, lesherpa.com).

Best restaurants

In the village

Oxalys The chef, Jean Sulpice, may look as though he’s just out of short trousers, but he’s earned two Michelin stars for his superb and innovative cooking (venison infused in hay with cocoa and cardamon sauce is divine). The restaurant is unstuffy, and there’s a great wine list. The 65 euro La Lauze set menu is remarkable value (04 79 00 12 00, restaurant-loxalys.fr/uk/).

La Fruitiere Next to the lively Folie Douce bar (see main article), but very different in style and clientele. Decorated in creams and whites, it has a civilised atmosphere, good mountain food and a plat du jour lunch for 19 euros; if you’re eating outside, lunch early for peace, late for the music (04 79 00 04 27, lafoliedouce-valthorens.com/v2/)

What to avoid

The Cime Caron cable car if you hate heights. You exit onto a metal bridge through which there are terrifying glimpses of the sheer drop below. Once across though, you’re rewarded with one of the most spectacular views in the Alps.

Overdoing it when you arrive. This is the highest resort in Europe and you may feel breathless and headachey at first. Pack paracetamol.

Spending any more time than you have to on the slopes around the resort lifts. They're as crowded as a Mumbai intersection - and a lethal mix of slow beginners and show-off racers.