Compressor, good or bad, 14.3 ohm's across bottom two pins, 10.9 ohm's
between top pin and bottom left, 4.0 ohm's between top pin and bottom right. Is this compressor good or bad? Tested all pins for a short to ground, all pins read 0 ohm's. Start device/relay combo rattles allot. No continuity between the two holes and 0 ohm's also. This is bad right? Frig was making clicking noises, light and condenser fan work. What do you guy's think?

Thanks for the replies! Richappy, I guess your saying the compressor could still be bad? I also tested for continuity between all the pins and they all have continuity. Denman, when I tested for a short, here is what I did. I put one test lead on each pin one at a time and the other test lead on the ground terminal of the compressor housing. I think maybe I stated my readings wrong when I said they each read 0 ohm's. I had the meter set to read ohm's, but the meter did not register anything on any of the pins. The screen did not read like 0.0, it was blank. Did I state that wrong I guess? Open and closed circuits always confuse me. Throwing short circuit and infinite in there makes it worse. I always thought that a closed circuit let current thru, and a open circuit did not, correct? Anyway, ordered the start device and will put it on and see if it works when I get it. Will let you guy's know if it works or not. Thanks for helping a guy that knows just enough to be dangerous!

Did I state that wrong I guess?
Yes.
In this case richappy knew what you meant but if you had given the same info just with different words then the conclusion would have been that the compressor is toast re: shorted out.

Open and closed circuits always confuse me. Throwing short circuit and infinite in there makes it worse. I always thought that a closed circuit let current thru, and a open circuit did not, correct?
You are correct so I am not sure why you are confused.

If you hold both meter leads apart, this is an obvious open circuit and no current will flow. Your meter will not give a resistance reading (infinite ohms).

Now if you short the meter leads together, this is an obvious short circuit and maximum current will flow. Your meter shows 0 ohms which is zero resistance to current flow.

Hopefully the new start device will do the trick. I will keep my fingers crossed.

Ok guys, got start device yesterday, and put it on, plugged in frig, compressor took right running. Set dial to coldest setting 9 and put thermometer in the freezer compartment. Checked 6 hours later, -10 degrees! Let run over night, still -10 this morning, so turned the dial down to 5 normal setting. Checked again about 5 hours later, up to 20 degrees. Walked around back, could hear compressor trying to kick in and out. Felt compressor and it was pretty hot, so unplugged it to let it cool down. Going to try to plug it back in later when cool. Oh, I still have the cardboard off of the back of frig. Would that make the air circulation that bad to cause the compressor to get hot? Are is this compressor shot? Bad run windings or something? Help again, please?

Going to try to plug it back in later when cool.
Goods idea as it does sound like the compressor overheated.
Could be that it was just working too hard trying ro reach a low set point.

Oh, I still have the cardboard off of the back of frig. Would that make the air circulation that bad to cause the compressor to get hot?
Yes it could but normally there is enough cooling so that the compressor does not overheat. I am assuming that the condenser fan was running anfd that it was still pushing lots of air.

Are is this compressor shot? Bad run windings or something?
Yes it could be a bad compressor.
I would not trust this unit.

Ok, tried three times plugging in frig when cold, compressor runs great, takes freezer temp down to -10 set on the middle setting of 3. After two or three hours the compressor starts that click-short hum-off deal about every 8 to 10 seconds. Unplug it, let it set a while and cool down, starts, runs great, till to starts it's click deal.
I did not replace the little overload when I replaced the start device relay. Should I have replaced that also? Could the overload be bad, keeping it from starting when the compressor is warm? Any way to test the overload with a meter? I have another overload on another frig, that sure looks like the same part, don't know if part numbers match, could I try a swap, maybe? Just hard to believe the compressor is bad when it gets the frig that cold.

When I short the meter leads together I get a zero offset of 0.01 When I put the leads across the overload terminals I get 0.03 . I have another frig with the same type/shape overload that runs fine. Tested that overload just to see if the readings were the same, it was 0.03 also. From the wiring diagram it says the compressor run windings should be between 1-6 ohm's resistance (mine are 3.6) and that the start windings should be between 3-11 ohm's resistance (mine are 10.5) I think my problem is with that reading, it's to high, that the start windings are burnt something. Letting it start when cold, but not when warm or hot. Plus the start and run ohm's resistance total of 13.9 doesn't equal. (10.5 + 3.6 = 14.1) The other (good) frig compressor tested 4.2 on run winding and 6.4 on start winding and a total across run and start of 10.6 that is equal (4.2 + 6.4 = 10.6). I think my start windings has something wrong with them. So, I'm ready to give in. Going to call AmerenUE to pick it up, they give you $50 if it is running. Not going to plug it in till the day they are coming to pick it up. Then I'll pull the start device before they load it up and get my money back for that part. All I'm out is my time then. Denman I want to thank you for all your help. You save allot of people allot of money. We appreciate it. I can see from your 15K plus posts you have been at it awhile. Keep sharing your knowledge, the world is a better place for it. PS: Your correct, the frig has no cap.

Last edited by dclange : 07-30-2013 at 01:08 PM.

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