Remember what Trojan Horse said about the temperature. The cold weather will help your car not detonate but when it is hot out or your engine gets heat soaked from sitting in traffic it is more likely to ping when under a load

Flat Black GT, was it easy to do and how much was the timing light? Good job on doing the advance,

I found out today ill be home about a week before christmas from this deployment so trying to get a list of things to do to the stang once i get home. Besides CAI, advancing the timing, what are some cheap mods i can do to gain either power or handling looking for cheap things to do.

Flat Black GT, was it easy to do and how much was the timing light? Good job on doing the advance,

I found out today ill be home about a week before christmas from this deployment so trying to get a list of things to do to the stang once i get home. Besides CAI, advancing the timing, what are some cheap mods i can do to gain either power or handling looking for cheap things to do.

It's easier than ya think, I got my timing light from autozone for $40. It's plain and cheap but gets the job done.

Other things to try for power is a set of under drive pullies, a larger mass air meter, smog pump delete if you don't have emissions test in your area, exhaust such as cat back or h or x pipe and headers. These are just a few of the things I always did when I got a stock mustang. Gears will make a big difference but it is more technical and if you don't know what you are doing, it is best to let a shop set the rear end up for you. It also costs more because of the labor fees at the shop. Aluminum driveshaft is also an easy install just remember to use a thread locker on the bolts when reinstalling them. Use a blue thread locker as it is the medium strength serviceable kind. Red will work too but will be harder to get apart next time.

93redfox, thanks for the advice some of the things you listed the guy i bought the car from did ie smog delete, shorty headers, o/r h-pipe, flowmasters dumped(which i hate). it has 3.73 gears pro 5.0 shifter, i forget the clutch thats in it, adjustable firewall clutch cable thing, and i think thats all i cant remember.

the drive shaft is that something easy enough to do in the driveway or do i need to go and put it up on the lift?

Underdrive pulleys what do they do and will it change AC/ power steering or anything like that, also would i need to buy a new belt of any kind?

As far as handling the cheaper way to do it is to start changing the rubber bushings in everything to polyurethane. You can also get caster/camber plates but this will require an alignment. It is always a good idea to get an alignment after changing a lot of the front end suspension components including bushings. Changing the springs out will also dramatically improve handling. You can get a decent set of rear control arms with polyurethane bushings and it will tighten the feel of your rear end when cornering. It will also allow you to remove your quad shocks which is a weight reduction and allows for wider wheels. Quad shocks are there to help control wheel hop but the poly bushings in the new control arms will control it by themselves

93redfox, thanks for the advice some of the things you listed the guy i bought the car from did ie smog delete, shorty headers, o/r h-pipe, flowmasters dumped(which i hate). it has 3.73 gears pro 5.0 shifter, i forget the clutch thats in it, adjustable firewall clutch cable thing, and i think thats all i cant remember.

the drive shaft is that something easy enough to do in the driveway or do i need to go and put it up on the lift?

Underdrive pulleys what do they do and will it change AC/ power steering or anything like that, also would i need to buy a new belt of any kind?

okay im going to start buying suspension parts here soon to piece everything i might "need"/want. i was looking at getting a complete bushings kit for i think 150-175 by the sounds of it it sounds worth it from what your saying. Heres what im thinking of buying and doing all at once. Lowering springs, shocks front and rear, upper and lower control arms ?(the once on ebay for a set of four for 130 are they worth it of knock offs) caster chamber plates anything else i can do while ill have it apart? or should get for suspension?

i just bought a alm. drive shaft form a guy on my home town forum for 100 bucks with u-bolt and bolts.......

The driveshaft can be done in your driveway by jacking the back of your car up and put jack stands on your axle tubes to hold it safely. Chock the front wheels forward and back (you can never be too safe when working under a car) and you should be able to get to two bolts at a time. Put your transmission in neutral and rotate your back wheel to spin the driveshaft to access the other two. The bolts are 12mm twelve point. You can use a regular box end wrench to remove them. They are usually pretty tight so you may need to have a long wrench for leverage or slide a pipe over a smaller wrench for added leverage. If you know how to use the double wrench trick it works also but watch your knuckles. It may require you to take your h-pipe off depending on where the cross tube is as it will keep you from letting the driveshaft down to clear the rear
end when you slide it back and out of the tranny. Install the new one in the same way.

As far as under drive pullies yes you will most likely need a diff belt and your ac may not blow quite as cold under idle and your alternator might not have the same output at idle but that is the only drawback. They make special pully kits that wont affect the alternator as much by putting a smaller pulley on the alternator which will speed it back up.

Under drive pullies give you power by slowing down all your belt driven accessories which puts less load on your engine. It theoretically makes it easier for the crank to drive everything by changing the pulley ratio similar to how lower rear gears make it easier to accelerate.

I am not as familiar with 94/95 mass air meters but I am pretty sure you have a 70mm maf which isn't a huge restriction but you can go to an 80mm abaco (very accurate) or a pro-m or pmas 80mm. Just make sure whichever you get is calibrated for your injector size which should be 19lbs if they are stock. I think bbk makes one too and they make quality stuff. Just search on eBay and you can get a good deal on one.

Eibach, H&R, Tein, Ford Racing are
good ones that come to mind but they are more expensive unless you find a deal most from any mustang aftermarket company are good like American Muscle, Latemodel Restoration Supply, CJ Pony Parts, etc look in a mustang mag for ads almost all sell quality stuff

I have CJ Pony lowering springs and they ride very nice! I estimate 1.5"-2.0" drop. I believe they can be had for about $130. My advise is to steer away from no name eBay parts. You'll do much better to price new brand name parts and try to find good clean used parts of brand name on eBay. With performance parts you almost always get what you pay for, even if the off brand performs they usually don't last. I've read countless articles in both car and motorcycle mags where they do dyno and long term tests and usually it's the quality that suffers the most with off brand parts.

Army_stang - no worries bro I'm getting a lot of useful info from this. I've had my stang for a while but I'm new to the modding world myself. I have a ? When installing lowering springs should I change the balljoints as well? I kno itll put more stress on them when lowering the car.. also the smog pump delete .. can I run a smaller belt and take the pump off or should I buy the eliminator kit??

Army_stang - no worries bro I'm getting a lot of useful info from this. I've had my stang for a while but I'm new to the modding world myself. I have a ? When installing lowering springs should I change the balljoints as well? I kno itll put more stress on them when lowering the car.. also the smog pump delete .. can I run a smaller belt and take the pump off or should I buy the eliminator kit??

You can run a smaller belt to bypass the smog pump. If your ball joints are close to being worn out I would go ahead and change them.

If your ball joints are fine now then they will be fine after you lower it. It doesn't put any more stress on them it just changes the angle of your control arms, tie rods, and you won't be able to tell the diff when it comes to the ball joints.

What you may want to do is get a bump steer kit which replaces your tie rod ends with adjustable ones to get the correct angle back for the tie rods. Note the angle of your tie rods before you lower it then try to duplicate that angle in relation to the rack and pinion after you lower it. The kit will come with several spacers to get the angle right.

With your smog pump you can take it off and run a shorter belt you don't need the eliminator pully.

You can use what they call thermactor plugs to plug the back of your heads just google mustang thermactor plug and you will find them and as for the tube coming from your exhaust you can have it welded up or go the shade tree route and put a piece of hose on it and clamp a bolt or something in the open end down under the car. Ive seen it done both ways lol. You just want it to not become an annoying exhaust leak.

You can use what they call thermactor plugs to plug the back of your heads just google mustang thermactor plug and you will find them and as for the tube coming from your exhaust you can have it welded up or go the shade tree route and put a piece of hose on it and clamp a bolt or something in the open end down under the car. Ive seen it done both ways lol. You just want it to not become an annoying exhaust leak.