1865: Peak XV
re-named Mt. Everest to honor Sir George Everest, the Surveyor
General of India. Everest called Chomolungma in Tibet and
Sagarmatha in Nepal.

1903: Sir
Francis Younghusband leads a British army Expedition to Lhasa.

1904: Everest
is photographed for the first time from a Tibetan village 94
miles away.

1913: Captain
John Noel, a British military captian, travels to Tibet in
disguise to find the best way to approach
Everest. He comes within 40 miles of Everest, after
finding the mountain range unexpectly. At the time foreigners
were forbidden in Tibet.

1920: The
Dalai Lama opens Tibet to outsiders. A British party explores
a route to Everest from the North.

1921: First
Attempt to climb Everest by the British
expedition: None reach the summit.

1922: 7
Sherpa climbers die in an avalanche. The first reported deaths
on Everest.

1924: British
team with Lt. Col. Norton reaches 8580 meters (28150 feet) without oxygen.
George Mallory and Andrew Irvine are seen somewhere above Camp
1. They never return. It is reported they "were going strong
for the top". The mystery of Everest and the press
begins!

1951: Without
official permission from Nepal, and only a few months after
the 1950 Anglo-American Nepal Reconnaissance, the Dane Klavs
Becker-Larsen attempts to climb the Northern pre-war Everest
route but via a southern approach.

1951: British
Reconnaissance supported by the Alpine Club and the Royal
Geographic Society. A post-monsoon exploration led by Eric
Shipton

1952: Swiss
Expeditions sponsored by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine
Research including Tenzing
Norgay and Raymond Lambert attempt Everest via the South-East Ridge Route
turning around very high but before the South Summit. The
expedition lays the ground work for 1953.

1955: The
height
of Everest is adjusted by 26 feet to 29,028 feet or 8848 meters.

1956: Swiss
Everest/Lhotse Expedition led by A. Eggler

1958: Joint
Chinese/Russian reconnaissance from the North that reaches
21,000 feet (6,400 meters) below the North Col.

1960: Chinese
and Tibetan team of 214 men and women, led by Shih Chan- chun,
makes the first summit of Everest via the North Col and
Northeast Ridge.

1962: Illegal
four-man expedition led by the American Woodrow Wilson Sayre
following the pre-war British route up the North Col and NE
Ridge.

1962: Second
Indian Expedition with Major John Dias as leader.

1963: James
Whittaker reaches the Summit of Everest becoming the first
American.

1963: The
first ascent of the Everest West Ridge, actually the West
Ridge/North Face by Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein on 5/22/63.
Also the first traverse as
they descended the South East Ridge/ South Col.

1965: Third
Indian Expedition, with Commander M.S Kohli as leader. On May 20,
1965: Nawang Gombu becomes the first person to Summit Everest
twice. Both of this Summits were via the South east ridge, his
first as a member of Jim Whittaker's American Expedition were
he became the 11th person the Summit Everest. Out of the first
seventeen summits of Everest, Nawang had two of them!

1966-1969:
Nepal is closed to mountaineering during this politically
tense period involving antagonists India and China.

1969:
Japanese SW Face Reconnaissance Expeditions.

1970:
Japanese SW Face Expedition led by the seventy-year old
veteran Saburo Matsukata.

1970:
Japanese Ski Expedition.

1971:
International Expedition. Norman Dyhrenfurth leads an
expedition with thirty climbers from thirteen different
countries

1973: Sambhu
Tamang of Nepal, summits at what is reported to be 16 years old. It is later believed
that Sambhu was 18 ! So is Everest climbing.

1973:
Japanese Expedition. Led by Michio Yuasa, this large forty-
eight man expedition attempted both the SW Face and South Col
route. The SW Face party reaches 27,200 feet (8,300 meters)
before giving up. Success is achieved on the South Col route
when Hisahi Ishiguro and Yasuo Kato reach the summit, the
first post-monsoon success on the mountain.

1975: Japanese Ladies Expedition led by Mrs Eiko Hisana. On
May 16
Junko Tabei of Japan became the first woman to reach the
summit via
the South-East Ridge.

1975: A Tibetan
woman, Phantog, reaches the Summit only a few days after Junko
on 5/27/75. Becoming he second woman to summit Everest and the
first woman to summit from the North (Tibet) side.

1980: Solo:
Reinhold Messner (Italy) 8/20/80 via the North Col to the
North Face and the Great Couloir. He climbed for three days
entirely alone from his base camp at 6500 meters without the
use of artificial oxygen via the North Col/North Face route.

1982: Laurie
Skreslet first Canadian to reach the Summit.

1983: Lou Reichardt,
Kim Momb, and Carlos Buhler reached the Summit via the East or
Kangshung face on 10/8/83.

1984: Tim
Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer reached the Summit via the
North Couloir.

1988: Marc
Batard, a Frenchman, sets the speed record on Everest on the
South East ridge route from EBC to the Summit in 22.5
hours.

1988: The First
American Woman, Stacey Allison reaches the Summit of
Everest.

1990: First
Son of a summiter to Summit Everest: Peter Hillary (New
Zealand) 5/10/90

1990: First
father and son to summit together: Jean Noel Roche and his son
Roche Bertrand aka Zebulon. They flew together on a tandem paraglider from the
south Col. They landed at base camp on the 7th of October
1990. Roche Bertrand was 17 at the time and became the
youngest person to ever climb Everest at the time.

1992: First
case of two brothers to reach the Summit together: Alberto
and Felix Inurrategui September 25, 1992.

1993: The
first Nepalese woman, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, summits Everest but
dies descending from the Summit on 4/23/93.

1996: The
first ascent of the North-Northeast couloir by Peter Kuznetzov,
Valeri Kohanov and Grigori Semikolenkov on 5/20/96.

1996: North
Side: Fastest Ascent via the standard North Col-north
ridge-north face Route: Hans Kammerlander (Italian) 5/24/96,
16 hours 45 minutes from base camp. He left BC at 6400 meters
at 5pm on May 23, 1996 and was on the Summit 16 hours 45
minutes later at 9:45am the next day. He descended most of the
route on skis.

2001:
Roche Bertrand and
his wife Claire Bernier Roche flew together on a tandem
paraglider from the North side Summit of Everest. The
paraglider arrived at ABC 8 minutes later...This first husband
and wife to fly from the Summit together !