Antico Pizza Napoletana Restaurant Review

: Huge, full-flavored, rustic-styled pies emerge from three round-bellied wood-burning stoves that stay busy all night. Pizzas are slightly charred and have chewy crusts; toppings are simple and rely on such items as mozzarella di bufala, fresh cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, caramelized onions and sausage. Entertainment comes from owner Giovanni Di Palma, whose grandparents hail from Naples, artfully tossing the disks of dough and stretching them with his curved fists until they’re the proper thinness. Once baked, they come to the tables on large cookie sheets topped with brown craft paper. Margherita is the classic, with tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil. But we like the San Gennaro, with slightly spicy sausage and sweet peppers, and onions, all tied together with mozzarella di bufala. Beer or wine are offered, but you may still bring your own (no corkage). Get the cannoli for dessert, or pop in next door to Di Palma's gelateria, Caffè Gio. Also located at Avalon, 2200 Avalon Blvd., Alpharetta, 770-674-8811; and in The Battery, One Ballpark Center, Ste. 420, 2605 Circle 75 Pkwy. SE, 678-890-2222.