Eat

Sweet. Sour. Salty. Astringent.
Bitter. Pungent. These six sensations of taste have been recognized for
over five thousand years in traditional Chinese medicine. For most of
us though, our taste axis of choice leans disproportionately in one
direction: straight across the horizon toward sweet.

The American Heart Association recommends
that we eat no more than nine tablespoons (about 150 calories) of sugar
a day, but a typical American consumes twenty-eight teaspoons (450
calories). According to Mary Ryan, a Registered Dietitian with a Master
of Science in Foods and Nutrition—and founder of Beyond Broccoli Nutrition Counseling, formerly
based in Jackson—“The crux of the problem with any kind of sugar is
[that] we just eat too much of it in all of its forms.” A sweet tooth is
a hard habit to break—but exploring, experimenting, and understanding
sugar alternatives allows for less rule-breaking and more healthy
satiety.

Not All Sugars are
the Same
“Sugar” is a class of edible crystalline carbohydrates with a sweet
flavor. The most basic sugars associated with food are glucose, sucrose,
lactose, and fructose. Glucose, our main source of energy, is the
simple sugar made when our bodies break down starches. In food it’s
sometimes called dextrose. Sucrose is highly refined from sugar cane or
sugar beets—your classic table sugar devoid of any nutrients. Lactose
comes from milk. Fructose is a sugar found naturally in fruits. Sugars
known by their common name, like maple syrup and honey, contain varying
percentages of these and other basic sugar compounds.

Naturally
occurring fructose comes along with fiber, enzymes, vitamins, minerals,
and antioxidants, whereas processed fructose sweeteners have no
nutritional value at all. The primary culprit in the obesity epidemic is
high-fructose corn syrup. The body metabolizes glucose and fructose
differently, and one study comparing the two showed that we convert
fructose to body fat with “surprising speed.” Fructose can only be
broken down by the liver; thus, like alcohol, it strains the organ.
Unfortunately, in the United States it’s our sugar of choice, whether we
know it or not. Found in most processed foods, fructose is especially
abundant in long-term, shelf-stable products like those found in the
frozen food section and in processed tomato-based products.

Deciphering
how a sugar is processed requires evaluating individual products.
Acids, charcoal, inulin enzymes, and a handful of other chemicals used
in processing and filtration can be found across the board, unless you
are only consuming a whole product. Agave syrup is currently the most
notorious for being touted as an organic and raw, healthier choice.
However, agave nectar is not from the juice of the agave plant—it is
derived from starch of the agave root, and is fractionated and processed
(much like high-fructose corn syrup), losing any nutrient contained in
the whole plant. Some brands are up to 80 percent fructose. However,
agave does have low glycemic index (it doesn’t spike blood sugar, making
it an alternative for diabetes sufferers), and its sweeter taste allows
for an overall reduction of the total sugar in a recipe—just be
cautious in its use.

Honey
powder, frequently found in yogurts, nut butters, and cereals, is also a
surprising offender when judged by its degree of processing. Honey
powder often carries inulin, a naturally occurring plant-based
carbohydrate that’s processed into a sweetener. Inulin in its natural
state (for instance, in a raw carrot) feeds good bacteria in the
gastrointestinal tract. Processed inulin, according to emerging studies,
can feed bad bacteria, too, and enable bacteria like Klebsiella to move
out of the colon, where it can cause serious infection. Many species of
yeast adore inulin, and Candida albicans, the fungus responsible for a
variety of common maladies including vaginal yeast infections, thrush,
skin infections, and diaper rash, can readily develop with
overconsumption.

So, What to
Do?
“Ayurveda recommends that we eat the ‘sweet’ taste first,” explains
Wahneta Trotter, a certified ayurvedic specialist from Ketchum, Idaho.
“The brain requires glucose to function. The ‘sweet’ foods with glucose
are digested first.” Trotter makes it clear, though, that “sweet” foods
are not just sugar-based foods. There are grains, dairy, legumes, and
even meats that are inherently sweet and can help assuage cravings. (She
believes that sweet cravings can arise from an emotional state of
emptiness, loss, or sadness, or a feeling of being unsatisfied. A
craving for sweet foods can also indicate undernourishment or lack of
protein.)

Need another good
reason not to throw everything out just yet? “Intense activity and
extremes of hot or cold increase various nutritional needs, and
carbohydrates are the most easily converted sources for energy,” says
Ryan, adding that energy bars and gels like GU are “simply convenient
ways to boost blood sugar during intense exercise when digesting food is
impractical.”

Your first
guideline for changing up your diet—“it’s not an all-or-nothing
venture,” says Ryan, who has found that radical changes like going “cold
turkey” sets an individual up for sugar binges after periods of severe
restriction. “Be aware of the ‘hidden sugars’ in everyday foods like
flavored yogurt and packaged foods” Ryan warns. “Eating more whole,
minimally or un-processed foods automatically helps you decrease sugar
and salt to healthier levels. Know how your body responds to too much
sugar of any kind and how much is too much for you.”

Similar
principles are shared by ayurvedic practitioner Cate Stillman, founder
of the Yogahealer in Driggs. “If you are craving sweet and not bitter
(dark leafy greens and green vegetables), then your taste buds are not
connected to what your body actually needs,” she says. “The best thing
to do is cleanse or detoxify to reset your taste buds into an
intelligent alignment with the rest of your body’s needs.”

Good
sugars are found naturally in whole foods. Purists seek sweetness in
grains, legumes, and vegetables, and it’s a proven fact that chewing
them for longer produces a sweeter taste. Sprouting converts starch to
sugar, so sprouted nuts and vegetables are also an option.

Produced locally by
a handful of companies, honey is one of the most attractive substitutes
for processed sugar. Considered a superfood by many, raw, unprocessed
honey provides antioxidants, minerals, vitamins, amino acids, enzymes,
carbohydrates, and phytonutrients, and is believed to be a remedy for
many health ailments. However, like agave, there is nothing much
beneficial about a lot of processed honey.

The
crystals, nectar, and water of coconut are about as over-marketed as
agave lately, but are they safe? Coconut’s health benefits are endless;
it is highly nutritious, and rich in fiber, vitamins, and minerals. The
oil is composed predominately of medium-chain fatty acids (MCFA), also
known as medium-chain triglycerides (MCT). MCFA is easier for our bodies
to absorb than sugars void of minerals and nutrients. Coconut’s rich
composition makes it one of the healthier options—it’s a sweetener that
gives back.

What about Sugar
Substitutes?
Six intensely sweet, calorie-free sugar substitutes have been approved
for use in the United States, including plant-based stevia (also known
as rebaudioside A, Truvia, and PureVia), and the artificial compounds
aspartame (brand names include Equal and NutraSweet), saccharin (Sweet’N
Low), sucralose (Splenda), acesulfame potassium (Sweet One), and
neotame (also made by NutraSweet). There is ongoing debate over whether
or not artificial sweetener usage poses health risks. Perhaps it’s
better to ask: How do your personal risks associated with diabetes and
obesity stack up against the use of some of the highly processed
artificial compounds? (And do you entirely trust the Food and Drug
Administration and food corporations with their approvals?)

Stillman’s
preferred sweetener for smoothies is stevia, which adds a sweet taste
without spiking the blood sugar. An herb native to Latin America and
found in parts of the American Southwest, its sweet leaves and flowers
are used to make a powder that is approximately thirty times sweeter
than table sugar—so, only a few drops are necessary for one cup of
liquid. Stevia is not affected by heat, making it a great sugar
replacement for teas, baking, canning fruits, and other recipes.

Concerns
about stevia include decreased carbohydrate absorption during
digestion, which can lead to low blood sugar. While this might benefit
weight watchers and diabetics, it is not clear how much stevia is too
much, contributing to malnutrition, hypoglycemia, or dangerously low
blood sugar. There is also concern that diabetics’ insulin requirements
and dosages may be altered in unpredictable ways by switching from sugar
to stevia.

The Whole Truth
Whole foods and living foods remain our cleanest sources for a healthier
diet. So yes, sprouting does create sweet flavors. Barley malt is made
by soaking and sprouting barley to make malt that is combined with more
barley and cooked until the starch is converted to sugar. The mash is
then strained and cooked down to syrup or dried into powder, and is one
of the healthier options on the market. Amazake is an ancient Oriental
whole grain sweetener made from cultured brown rice with a thick,
pudding-like consistency. (Often hard to find, Amazake is available at
Barrels and Bins in Driggs.)

Opting
for whole food sweeteners is easier on our bodies, and they are usually
available with the season’s bounty. “Sweet is an important part of our
diet, especially during summer, autumn, and early winter,” says
Stillman. “Nature provides sweet taste in abundance … with sweet peas,
berries, juicy fruits, root vegetables, and winter squashes. Simply
eating in season keeps our taste buds ‘intelligent.’”

asked
Stillman to suggest a good “craving recipe” to lean on while one is
trying to reduce sugar in the diet. She recommended the raw truffles she
prepares in her food processor, using dates, raisins, coconut butter,
and raw cacao. Though it doesn’t sound nearly as indulgent as a milk
shake or a chocolate bar, she promises, “Once you start eating real
nutrients, you stop craving non-nutrient sweet food. It just starts to
taste artificial and lacking nature’s intrinsic intelligence. Literally,
the tissue of your body stops craving the junk [to eat]. You will want
real food.”

Sugar From Sap:
If you ask a Vermonter, she may try to convince you that maple syrup is a
condiment, not just a sweetener. Though that is up for debate, maple
syrup does have some real benefits. Maple syrup, sap drained from trees
and then processed, is ultimately less refined than most processed
sweeteners and therefore maintains a composition of minerals and
antioxidants. Besides its great taste, one of maple syrup’s best
attributes is that it’s an easy, one-to-one substitute for sugar (though
you have to lessen liquid in an overall recipe). “I love pure maple
syrup mixed in with yogurt and fruit or hot cereal, and raw honey
drizzled on toast with nut butter and a sprinkle of cinnamon,” says
nutritionist Mary Ryan. “Both of these ‘natural’ sweeteners have at
least trace amounts of minerals, and it only takes a small amount to
sweeten something, thereby encouraging its use in moderation.”

Due
to its antiseptic and antifungal properties, honey has been used
internally and externally for over 2,000 years, to soothe irritated skin
and aid in the healing of wounds and infections. Medieval seducers
plied their partners with mead, a fermented drink made from honey.
Lovers on their “honeymoon” drank mead to “sweeten” the marriage.

Soak
the raisins and dates overnight in water. In the morning, drain them,
saving the sweet liquid. In a food processor put the raisins, dates,
cacao nibs, and softened cacoa butter or coconut butter. Blend into a
puree. Add a few spoonfuls of soaking water if it’s too thick to blend.
Once it’s a puree, add cocoa powder and stir to make into a thick paste.
Put toppings of choice on a small plate. Roll the paste into 1 1/2-inch
balls and roll in one of the toppings; truffles rolled in coconut are
shown above. Store in the refrigerator. *Cacao butter is available at
the Jackson Whole Grocer. Buy coconut butter at rawfoodworld.com.

Beverages
One of the best times to experiment is at happy hour, be it with tea,
cocktail, or smoothie. Working with beverages constrains portions, so if
something doesn’t qualify for a James Beard award, you have not
invested too much time or ingredients into a bad batch. Explore the
consistencies of different syrups, and tastes and properties of
alternative sweeteners, before attempting to substitute ingredients in a
working recipe.

Tibby Plasse
dropped out of her Ph.D. program after falling in love with Idaho. She
splits her time among writing poetry, snowboarding, and improving her
proficiency as a calf mama for Paradise Springs Farm, a biodynamic raw-milk dairy located at the base of the Big Holes.