Ketoximes

By: Michael Zviely and Ming Li

Posted: February 27, 2013, from the March 2013 issue of P&F magazine.

Oximes, which have been well-known for many years, have been used chiefly as derivatives to characterize aldehydes and ketones. Some oximes also possess desirable odors and other qualities that might make them desirable olfactory agents for use in perfume compositions. Several of these oximes are discussed herein. For instance, cassis oxime has a black currant, cassis, green, grapefruit, herbal and metallic odor. Not found in nature, this ingredient is used in many fragrances as a modifier; it blends well with accords where a fresh fruity, green aspect is required in citrus, modern lily-of-the-valley, lavender and other profiles. Due to its strength, cassis oxime is offered as 10% solution in isopropyl myristate/triethyl citrate (9:1) mixture, and its recommended use level is from traces to 0.5%. Below is an example of a fragrance with a citrus-white grapefruit accord. In this formulation, methyl laitone 10% lends a sweet volume while Velvione gives a rich, powdery musk body and dimethyl octenone adds a sparkling, juicy grapefruit note.

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