Relae

Copenhagen, Denmark

No.40

Noma alumni take flexible approach to New Nordic cooking

In a nutshell: Set up by two former Noma acolytes, this cool Copenhagen restaurant has won critical acclaim for its no-nonsense approach to fine dining. Deceptively simple dishes that maximise the flavour of just a few ingredients are served in a stripped back dining room by a young, friendly team.

On the menu: Choose between four or seven courses, with vegetables put centre stage in dishes such as Jerusalem artichoke mousse with passionfruit and coffee or fried salsify with salsify purée and bergamot. The pure flavours of pickled mackerel, cauliflower and lemon purée should not be missed.

A word on the owners: Chef Christian Puglisi and front-of-house head Kim Rossen set up Relæ in 2010 after meeting at Noma. The influence of René Redzepi's restaurant is clear, but Puglisi is not constrained by New Nordic principles, using ingredients from Italy and further afield.

The room: It's a down-to-earth space with diners encouraged to help themselves to cutlery from drawers in the simple wooden tables and to pour their own (natural and biodynamic) wine.

Other ventures: The pair also run laid-back wine bar Manfreds, which has recently been joined by an Italian charcuterie and pizza restaurant called Bæst and coffee-bar-cum-bakery, Mirabelle.