Can someone explain how does a hot-swappable board works compared to a regular soldered board please ?

The short answer: Dip sockets are soldered on the PCB, instead of the actual switch pins; then, the switches can be plugged in the sockets to get them connected to the matrix of the PCB. In that way you can swap them at any time, it is just a matter of plugging them in and out, the sockets. I hope this help to have an idea.

The short answer: Dip sockets are soldered on the PCB, instead of the actual switch pins; then, the switches can be plugged in the sockets to get them connected to the matrix of the PCB. In that way you can swap them at any time, it is just a matter of plugging them in and out, the sockets. I hope this help to have an idea.

Thanks for the answer.Is it because of the price that this is not a feature on every board ?

The short answer: Dip sockets are soldered on the PCB, instead of the actual switch pins; then, the switches can be plugged in the sockets to get them connected to the matrix of the PCB. In that way you can swap them at any time, it is just a matter of plugging them in and out, the sockets. I hope this help to have an idea.

Thanks for the answer.Is it because of the price that this is not a feature on every board ?

I do not think neither costs or pricing limit its use in all boards, instead, soldered switches provide higher reliability to the keyboard assembly, hot swapability is cool when you want to try different switches in the same board, but comes at the cost of connections that are not as safe as a soldered joint. For a keyboard aficionado it could be a welcome feature, but for real world applications, a soldered board will be the best option any time. I think the middle ground are the keyboards with plates with notches that allow switch top removal, then you can change the switch's internals with no disordering needed.

I do not think neither costs or pricing limit its use in all boards, instead, soldered switches provide higher reliability to the keyboard assembly, hot swapability is cool when you want to try different switches in the same board, but comes at the cost of connections that are not as safe as a soldered joint. For a keyboard aficionado it could be a welcome feature, but for real world applications, a soldered board will be the best option any time. I think the middle ground are the keyboards with plates with notches that allow switch top removal, then you can change the switch's internals with no disordering needed.

Thank you very much for the explanation ! I wish my ducky allowed top removal ^_^

I do not think neither costs or pricing limit its use in all boards, instead, soldered switches provide higher reliability to the keyboard assembly, hot swapability is cool when you want to try different switches in the same board, but comes at the cost of connections that are not as safe as a soldered joint. For a keyboard aficionado it could be a welcome feature, but for real world applications, a soldered board will be the best option any time. I think the middle ground are the keyboards with plates with notches that allow switch top removal, then you can change the switch's internals with no disordering needed.

Thank you very much for the explanation ! I wish my ducky allowed top removal ^_^

It is only an opinion, of course, but soldered joints being more reliable than switches plugged into dip sockets are closer to a fact.

Looks like people are starting to receive boards! Here's a quick firmware guide- my changes to EasyAVR still haven't been integrated into the main branch, so this will have to do for now:

1) If necessary, download and install Python 2.7.2) Download and unzip the source code.3) Open EasyAVR using run.bat.4) Select "62/60 (Round 0)" when creating a new layout.5) RGB configuration and instructions are available at View -> RGB Configuration.6) When ready, press the reset button on the bottom of the keyboard, then navigate to File -> Build and Reprogram and follow the prompts.

Got my round 0 62/60 and have been messing with it for a couple days. The rgb leds are really fun to work with and the configuration is super simple and easy to work with

The switch swapping is really nice. Zealios are indeed a bit loose but the gaterons and cherries I've used have been perfect. Tight enough to require a tool to pry them off. As someone who is really indecisive hot-swappable switches are a great feature!

I did run into a problem on my board though.

I couldn't get the "g" "h" "j" "k" "l" ";" "'" "enter" keys to work. Tried different switches made sure the firmware had keys assigned to them and everything but just couldn't get them to work. The leds functioned 100% though.

I couldn't get the "g" "h" "j" "k" "l" ";" "'" "enter" keys to work. Tried different switches made sure the firmware had keys assigned to them and everything but just couldn't get them to work. The leds functioned 100% though.

It is a shame that you have a nice adorn with cool LEDs that cannot be used for typing. I really hope the OP fix these kind of issues in the upcoming rounds.

I couldn't get the "g" "h" "j" "k" "l" ";" "'" "enter" keys to work. Tried different switches made sure the firmware had keys assigned to them and everything but just couldn't get them to work. The leds functioned 100% though.

This same problem occured with my satan GH60. I did check the atmega controller, one of the controller feet did not soldered to the board. And after i soldered that feet, the board works well, now my satan into hhkb

It is a shame that you have a nice adorn with cool LEDs that cannot be used for typing. I really hope the OP fix these kind of issues in the upcoming rounds.

Ya, was a bit disappointing but I expected some kinks in round 0 so not too gutted. Haven't given up hope on the board yet either, gonna open it up when I have time later this week and try to get to the bottom of the problem. I should totally hang it on my wall for some keyboard art in the meantime though as the leds are quite lovely looking

This same problem occured with my satan GH60. I did check the atmega controller, one of the controller feet did not soldered to the board. And after i soldered that feet, the board works well, now my satan into hhkb Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven't opened up the case and looked at the pcb yet as I haven't had much time, but I'll defienitly have to check out all the connections to the main controller. Thanks for the tip

Finally got time to sit down and play with the keyboard. Lighting on the board is great. Its customizable and I can individually program each LED. Lighting on the Zealios seemed less even compared to the Gaterons through the switch housings. Although with the clear housing on the Zealios, it's to be expected.

Didn't come across very many problems with they keyboard itself, except a few things. The biggest problem with the keyboard for me was one of the modifier switches weren't seated properly. So unless I press reaally hard on it, it wont activate even if the switch activates. The switch itself seems to be sitting 1-2mm off the top plate, so I'd say its because the switch itself isn't making full contact with the DIP socket.

Gaterons were in fact more snug in the sockets compared to Zealios. When I pop off a keycap, each Zealios switch would come off the board along with the keycap. With the Gaterons, I'd say 70% of the time they stayed on the board. Another thing I'd be worried about is the bare mini USB socket, as the case leaves it open and exposed. I'd like for it to have it covered or the case to be redesigned so that it offers more support for the socket.

The size of the keyboard is the same size as the 60% standard size. It's the same length as my Ducky mini. Weight's of the Mini were 730g with keycaps on, and 520g on the 60/62. The board feels really light and with the little nubs acting as feet, it feels a little too light for my taste.

In the end, I got what I wanted from the board. It wouldn't be my daily driver, but the lighting on it and the hotswap capabilities makes it really run to play with. Definitely worth the price I paid for it.

So I am one of the 2 boards that is still waiting... OP has gone dark on me over on Reddit and has not responded to any of my PMs over the last month. Last thing I heard was that my board was done and was waiting on switches and if I wanted he was going to send the board out and refund me the switches. I told him do what was easier on him.. So i'm just wondering if anyone on here knows OP because i just wanna know whats going on. Any help is appreciated

So I am one of the 2 boards that is still waiting... OP has gone dark on me over on Reddit and has not responded to any of my PMs over the last month. Last thing I heard was that my board was done and was waiting on switches and if I wanted he was going to send the board out and refund me the switches. I told him do what was easier on him.. So i'm just wondering if anyone on here knows OP because i just wanna know whats going on. Any help is appreciated

Hey, I'm the other guy who was originally waiting for the other board and spoke to you on Reddit. I unfortunately had to go through PayPal and request a refund after OP doing the same thing to me. He completely cut off communication about anything related to this project, yet still keeps an active Reddit account. Luckily he accepted the refund request, but that's literally the most contact I've had with him in months (and he didn't even need to speak to me directly).

It's whatever, really. I was excited for this board as I'm really new to this hobby, but this guy just left a terrible image on the scene for me and it's tough for me to get back into it.

OP seems to have gone dark but this board has it all! I really hope he comes back or someone picks up this project.

Zeal just released his tmk PCB with in-switch RGB LEDs, but it is in a standard 60% layout, not hot-swappable and without official underglow support. I wanted this project to succeed as the price is really good, especially since the case was included.

OP seems to have gone dark but this board has it all! I really hope he comes back or someone picks up this project.

Zeal just released his tmk PCB with in-switch RGB LEDs, but it is in a standard 60% layout, not hot-swappable and without official underglow support. I wanted this project to succeed as the price is really good, especially since the case was included.

OP seems to have gone dark but this board has it all! I really hope he comes back or someone picks up this project.

Zeal just released his tmk PCB with in-switch RGB LEDs, but it is in a standard 60% layout, not hot-swappable and without official underglow support. I wanted this project to succeed as the price is really good, especially since the case was included.

zeal PCB is common 60% but this one is entirely different layout.

Zeal products are extremely overpriced, to say the least; they come with huge hype building, but truth be told, a one hundred dollars PCB is very hard to get, while there are competitors that offer pretty much the same for less money.

I wonder why the OP went dark on this. The layout is so damn nice imo, I wish I could get my hands on one. Someone needs to find the original PCB supplier

some guy scalping his set for $300 on mechmarket, dunno if anyone would wanna pay more than 2x the original price but its there if u want it

The keyboard isn't selling for double the asking price, the keyboard alone is 144.50 that how much i payed for it. Plus it comes with 62x 78g zealios and those are about a dollar a piece or $0.75 if you get in the zealpc group buy then you would need to calculate shipping so thats another $15. So the mark up price is only about ~$80 over still a little steep but reasonable to me.