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Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Description

This route starts just east of Beckey's Wall, but west of Tarzan. In other words there are 2 bolted lines east of Beckey's, and this is the left line. The 1st 2 pitches can definitely be combined. This climbing is sequential and thin, a testpiece of microflakes and crystals. Getting to the 1st anchors (around the bulge) is the crux. It starts tough and doesn't let up (my fingertips are still screaming). The 1st 3 bolts have similar moves--micro-flakes and fingertips of steel, however getting to the anchors from the pair of bolts (1 old and 1 new) is a body english problem to stump the best of us. The second pitch (or 2nd half of the 1st pitch) is a romp up the slab (5.10a) in comparison. Belay at the anchors. The 3rd pitch climb the roof with fist jams and liebacks, and then the climbing gets interesting again. It traverses left (5.10) on thin holds around a steep section and finally slabs up the next face.There are 2 suspect bolts here so be careful. Belay at the tree. Pitch 4....to be continued as it got dark and we bailed.

P.S. Dont just do pitch 1, get on up ignore the grit and do pitch 3 as this adds the spice that makes the climb fun.

Protection

Draws no more than 6 per pitch, and also extra for the chain anchors. A couple piece of large gear for the roof.

Comment Type:

Lots of fun! Definitely agree with Nathan... do pitch one and two together, and then make the trip up pitch three as it offers some of the best climbing on the entire route. This was my first foray into 5.11 20 years ago and it still grabs my attention today. The crux bulge is always a puzzler... work those feet high!
Aug 10, 2004

Two bad 1\4" button head bolts on last pitch replaced today by mike white and jon rogers. ASCA- SS bolts and hardware was used. Thanks to clay watson and partner for fixing lines for us. All bolts are now good. mike white ASCA
Apr 28, 2007

Finally got on the 3rd pitch. Highly recommended. #3 cam for the initial roof. A 70 will land you back at the belay @ the top of Tarzan, but you have to put your rope around the belay tree. Pulled fine though.
Sep 4, 2014