Writer and wine columnist John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific author of books on wine.

Friday, May 1, 2015

Naramata Bench 2015 tasting: Part One.

Photo: Naramata winegrowers Will (l) and Bryan Hardman

The most crowded wine real estate in the Okanagan is the
Naramata Bench, a loosely defined area that stretches from Penticton
to the ChuteLake turnoff north of Naramata.

Including a few virtual wineries, there are 38 producers.
You can drive from one end to the other in 45 minutes, without breaking the
speed limit. Only a teetotaller would fail to find something to drink here.
Most wine tourists are just overwhelmed by the choices.

The Naramata Bench Wineries Association represents 25 of
those producers. The association has just concluded its annual spring tasting
events in Victoria and Vancouver. Those attending likely also were overwhelmed
by the choices. Even after spending six hours at the Vancouver tastings, I still missed a few
wineries.

That is not to complain. Two decades ago, there were not
this many wineries in all of British
Columbia. There certainly was not the quality of wine
either. British Columbia’s
wine consumers are fortunate indeed.

For those unable to attend, here are my notes on some of the
wines. I am dividing the reviews in several parts, so as not to post an
excessively long document.

The prices are close but sometimes not exact, thanks to the
government’s decision to separate the taxes. Add about 15% to prices ending on
odd numbers.

Deep Roots Winery, which opened
last year, is one of the newest of the Naramata wineries, but, as the name
suggests, one with roots. Bryan Hardman
and his son, Will, the winemaker, are one of the two winery owners actually
born in the region. (Robert Van Westen of Van Westen
Vineyards is the other.)

Deep Roots Pinot Gris
2014 ($19). This wine begins with honey and mango aromas, leading to
flavours of pear and apple. The slightly off-dry finish gives the wine a plump
texture. 90.

Deep Roots Unoaked
Chardonnay 2014 ($21). Long, cool fermentation with this wine (as with the
Pinot Gris) have preserved aromas and flavours of tropical fruit. It begins
with aromas of mango and cantaloupe leading to flavours of mango, melon, peach
and papaya. 89.

Deep Roots Rosé 2014 ($19).
This is two-thirds Merlot, one-third Gamay, with a deep colour from four days
of skin contact. The wine has aromas and flavours of cherry and strawberry,
with an off-dry finish that gives the wine a fleshy texture. 89.

Deep Roots Gamay 2014
($22). Approachable and easy drinking, this wine has aromas and flavours of
cherry and blackberry with white pepper and spice on the finish. 88.

Deep Roots Merlot
2013 ($26). This is a full-bodied Merlot with intense aromas of plum and
blueberry, leading to flavours of black currant, blueberry and vanilla. 90.

Deep Roots Malbec
2013 ($28). This begins with the classic and appealing Malbec aromas –
violets, spice and plums. On the palate there are flavours of plums and
mulberry. The firm texture suggests this will age well. 90.

Deep Roots Syrah 2013
($34). This wine has the typical note of black pepper on the nose and the
palate, accentuating the earthy, gamey flavours that mingle with dark chocolate
and plum. 90.

Deep Roots Frosted
Pinot 2014 ($22 for 375 ml). The bounteous harvest of 2014 allowed the Hardmans to leave some Pinot Gris for late harvest.
The grapes for this were picked on three days, all at or near Icewine
temperatures. Will blended the three lots to make a delicious dessert wine with
intense tropical fruit aromas and flavours. The fresh acidity balances the
sweetness and leaves the palate refreshed. 90.

Elephant
Island Orchard Wines has, since opening in 2001, established
itself as one of the best fruit wineries in British Columbia. In recent years, it has
also added three grape wines to its portfolio, under the Unconventional Wisdom
label.

Unconventional Wisdom
“The Other Way” Chardonnay 2014 ($17.39). This is a brand new wine from
this producer, made because owners Del
and Miranda Halladay bought a small vineyard a few years ago that grows, among
other varieties, some Chardonnay. This is a crisp and refreshing wine, with
just three months in oak, recalls a Chablis, with citrus aromas and flavours
and a backbone of minerals. 90.

Unconventional Wisdom
“I Told You So Viognier” 2013 ($22.99). This is a glorious expression of
tropical fruit aromas and flavours, with notes of spice, pineapple and ripe
apricots. 91.

ElephantIsland Pink Elephant Sparkling Brut 2012
(21.79). This is a refreshing bottle fermented sparkling wine made with Granny
Smith apples and a cassis dosage. The flavours are generous and long-lasting.
The finish is crisp. 90.

ElephantIsland Pear 2013 ($14.79). Crisp and fresh,
this has flavours of spice and pear with a hint of mint and liquorice on the
dry finish. 90.

ElephantIsland Cherry 2014 ($14.79). Dark in colour,
this wine’s aromas and flavours have the gamey, meaty notes of a good rare
steak. The finish is dry. This would indeed pair well with venison. 90.

ElephantIsland Blackberry 2014 ($15.69). If I had
tasted this blind, I might have taken it for a medium-bodied Cabernet Franc
that has spent time in good new French oak. The wine was, in fact, fermented in
stainless steel. The spicy flavours are all blackberry and the impression of
oak likely comes from the seeds. 90.

ElephantIsland Framboise Fortified Wine ($17.39 for
375 ml). This is like smelling and drinking raspberry jam. The aromas are
intense and the flavours just last and last. The wine is rich but neither
cloying nor heavy. 92.

La Frenz Winery, which opened in
2000, has a very long portfolio. This is the one to take to a dessert island
because it covers almost all wine styles except sparkling wine.

La Frenz Sauvignon
Blanc 2014($18.99). This is
refreshing, with aromas and flavours of lime and lemon around a backbone of
crisp acidity and minerality. 91.

La Frenz Riesling
2014 ($17.29). New to the portfolio, this is from a young planting near the
winery. The wine is crisp and tangy, with aromas and flavours of citrus around
a spine of minerals. 89.

La Frenz Viognier
2014 ($18.99). This begins with aromas of pears and apricots, leading to
flavours of apricots, figs and marmalade. A gentle warmth of alcohol lingers in
the background of this ripe and rich wine. 89.

La Frenz Reserve Pinot Noir 2013 ($27.79) and ‘Desperation Hill’ Pinot Noir 2012 ($19.99). The grapes are from
the same vineyard but the reserve, a selection of best lots and best barrels,
is more of everything. The reserve has aromas of strawberries, cherries and
vanilla, with a refreshing and silky structure. A very pretty wine. 92.

La Frenz Grand Total
Reserve 2012 ($34.69). This blend of the five Bordeaux varieties is the pinnacle of the La
Frenz reds. A powerful wine, it has notes of black cherry, cassis and leather
on the nose, leading to rich, ripe flavours of black cherry, dark chocolate and
vanilla. 93.

Lake Breeze Vineyards,
coming up to its 20th
anniversary next year, is planning to enlarge its tasting room and add a new
barrel cellar. Currently, an expanded winery park lot is being completed to
handle the crowds at this popular winery.

LakeBreeze Sauvignon Blanc 2014 ($17.39). This is
a refreshing white with crisp and focussed aromas and flavours of herbs, lime
and lemon. 91.

LakeBreeze Pinot Gris 2014 ($16.59). In my view,
this is a must-have Pinot Gris from this vintage. It is just bursting with
clean, fresh flavours of apples, ripe pear, ripe pineapple and citrus. 92.

LakeBreeze Spice Jar 2014 ($16.49). This is a
lively and quaffable blend of Gewürztraminer, Viognier and Schönburger. The
spicy aroma leads to flavours of tangerine, ripe apple and lychee. 90.

LakeBreeze Seven Poplars Chardonnay 2012 ($21.79).
This begins with appealing aromas of cloves and citrus, leading to flavours of
tangerine and ripe apple, with lingering fruit and spice on the long finish.
90.

LakeBreeze Merlot 2012 ($17.39). This is a ripe,
almost jammy wine with concentrated flavours of cassis, black cherry and
blueberry. 90.

LakeBreeze Meritage 2012 ($18.29). This is a
firm, ageable red with favours of black currant and coffee, and an earthiness
on the finish. The core of sweet fruit is not yet fully emerged. Decant this
before drinking. 88.

LakeBreeze Pinot Noir 2012 ($22.69). This is a
bit of a brooding earthy style, with a firm structure and flavours of cherry. I
would certainly age this for another three to five years. 89.

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About Me

John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific writer of books on wine. Since his first book in 1984, The World of Canadian Wine, he has written 15, including multiple editions of The Wineries of British Columba, British Columbia Wine Country and John Schreiner's Okanagan Wine Tour Guide.