Author
Topic: Fixing CZ (Read 1038 times)

Just got all the things i order for my 527 223 carbine. slip on recoil pad, scope 4x12 Bushnell, bipod, dremel tool, for barrel channel. gun shoots well just barrel lays on the stock. gots to fix it. thanks

Gunsmiths have told me for YEARS that they love people with Dremels - they keep the gunsmiths in business, when they walk in with the sad eyes and the messed up gun, and say, "Can you fix this?" I don't even own a Dremel - I screw up enough stuff without power tools as it is. It sounds like what you're saying is you want to free float the barrel?

<snip>It sounds like what you're saying is you want to free float the barrel?

That's what I'm hearing too.

On a 527, I'd either sand the barrel channel by hand with a round object, like a dowel, or a deep socket, or maybe relieve the inletting at the barrel lug, and then glass bed the lug with the barrel centered.

I was getting that he wants to free float the barrel with a Dremel. If it shoots well my advice would be to leave it alone. No idea why he needs a recoil pad on a .223, not enough recoil there to bother me, My 6.5 Grendel CZ recoils more than any .223 and it does not need a recoil pad. If shooting off a bench some sandbags I think are better than a bipod, prone in the field a bipod would be fine but that's about the only place I would want one

I was getting that he wants to free float the barrel with a Dremel. If it shoots well my advice would be to leave it alone. No idea why he needs a recoil pad on a .223, not enough recoil there to bother me, My 6.5 Grendel CZ recoils more than any .223 and it does not need a recoil pad. If shooting off a bench some sandbags I think are better than a bipod, prone in the field a bipod would be fine but that's about the only place I would want one

Free float barrel no big deal, need more length of stock ie recoil pad. Shoots well first 2 shots third drifts off some were,open up stock, new scope

Ok, open up the barrel channel with the Dremel, becasue the barrel heating up touches the wod and changes the Point of Impact.

arthurstearl, we are NOT making fun of your English skills, not at all, (I know people born and raised here who can't communicate in their native tongue s well as you can!), just trying to clarify and help. So you want a recoil pad like a PAST, open up the barrel channel and a new scope. Do you have any target pictures of how your rifle shoots now?

Nope, not making fun of English, just trying to understand reasoning. Recoil pad for length, I do understand, been there and done that, first time back in 1963 when I stuck on on a Win 70 featherweight 30-06 that with factory buttplate literally made my shoulder bleed. I was holding the gun forward so I could not get whammed by the scope and it did hit hard. Free floating the barrel, I still do not recommend a Dremel for that. Other jobs where you can mark where material is to be removed, do most of work with Dremel then fine finish work with chisels and files. It's just too easy to make a mess and ruin a stock using a Dremel. The best bet to free float the barrel is to use something like a deep well mechanics socket or wooden dowel just a little bit smaller than the barrel, wrap with fairly coarse sandpaper and work the barrel channel. Rounded scrapers can also do the job, some are marketed just for that purpose and are available in different sizes.

Whatever and however you choose to do the job go slow and check your work frequently, once you remove wood it cannot be replaced.

Whatever and however you choose to do the job go slow and check your work frequently, once you remove wood it cannot be replaced.

Not with that attitude it cant lol

As far as the barrel channel is concerned you could make a filler with sawdust and wood glue and reprofile the channel or JB weld if you woops. But I agree that it is best to go slow an not use a dremel for this kind of work