Here's something I put together earlier this winter. It has worked flawlessly and allows me to use the rain collector year 'round as well as provides me with an approximate liquid equivalent for snowfall.

Begin by taping several sheets of notebook paper together in order to make a template for the insulation blanket:

Place the paper in the bucket as shown and trim it to the edge of the bucket. You should wind up with a template that looks like this:

Attach this template to a sheet of aluminum foil using scotch tape:

Trim the foil to match the paper template leaving a slight overlap so that the paper stays attached with the scotch tape:

Completely cover this paper/foil template with the insulation tape:]

This is what the backside should look like:

Trim the foil tape to match the paper template:

Gently roll this piece and place it in the bucket. Trim it so that it fits snugly and doesn't interfere with the bucket's latch mechanism.

Once it is trimmed to fit perfectly, remove it and attach the heater cable to it using scotch tape. Remember that only the last 5'-6' of the cable is heated, the rest is just a lead. There is a small blue line that indicates the beginning of the heated portion:

Place the entire assembly back into the bucket. In order to prevent the lead from interfering with the latch, you need to make a small slot in the bottom of the bucket for the cable. No more than 1/8" wide by 1/4" tall really. I used my Dremel, but a red hot paring knife would do the trick as well.

So there you have it. Like I said, it's worked great. I have a switched exterior outlet that I plug an extension cord into and run over to the station. When there is snow in the forecast, I switch it on. I tested it inside and measured a 20 degree rise in temperature inside the bucket. (65F to about 85F). Outside it doesn't even feel warm to the touch really, but it does melt any and all snowfall.

It is nice, because I will be able to easily remove it and store it come summer time so there won't be a cord hanging out of it all year long.

I looked into some thermostatic control options, but was unable to find anything that was small, inexpensive, and that would stand up to the wet environment in the bucket. That's about the only improvement I think I could make. But... this is version 1.0 and I welcome all of your feedback!

I have seen a similar application done with a cold weather pipe wrap that they sell around here. It has a cold sensor built in and when It gets to 32 Deg. or below It turns on.I had planned to try It when It gets a little warmer.The application that I saw was not nearly as professional looking as yoursGreat JobJim

I've been thinking about replacing my small wattage bulb gauge heater with that reptile cord since I first saw it a few months ago. I should show you a picture of part of my setup though. I actually installed a power socket inside the guage using a little plug socket that contains a thermostat inside so it automatically turns off when it gets above around 40 degrees. That part would still work well with the reptile cord method.

Looking at how you did that, I thought I'd mention another thought I had. The bulb method I'm using works fine at raising the temperature of the area inside the cone. However, when it's cold, the system has a tough time melting the snow from the top one inch of the cone because there is little exposure to the heated interior, but lots of exposure to the outside air. I was hoping that the reptile cord (unlike the pipe tape) doesn't get real hot. I was planning on placing the cord around the INNER cone so it make direct contact and can be place up near the top too. Of course, if it gets hot enough to melt the cone, that won't work.

I have seen a similar application done with a cold weather pipe wrap that they sell around here. It has a cold sensor built in and when It gets to 32 Deg. or below It turns on.I had planned to try It when It gets a little warmer.The application that I saw was not nearly as professional looking as yoursGreat JobJim

I looked at those as well... but my understanding was that they can get quite hot. The sensor is meant to be in contact with the pipe. The reason for that being that it does not overheat the pipe (in the case of PVC pipe). I dunno... there was something about the sensor needing to be in contact with the pipe vs. the air that made me leery of trying it.

I've been thinking about replacing my small wattage bulb gauge heater with that reptile cord since I first saw it a few months ago. I should show you a picture of part of my setup though. I actually installed a power socket inside the guage using a little plug socket that contains a thermostat inside so it automatically turns off when it gets above around 40 degrees. That part would still work well with the reptile cord method.

SteveSoftWx

I actually took apart a baseboard heater thermostat and built my own custom thermostatically controlled electrical outlet. I wasn't too comfortable with installing it in a wet environment thought after I got it all put together. Even with the heat shrink wrap on the whole thing. I wasn't so much worried about shock or anything, but malfunction/longevity/burning down my sensor suite.

Looking at how you did that, I thought I'd mention another thought I had. The bulb method I'm using works fine at raising the temperature of the area inside the cone. However, when it's cold, the system has a tough time melting the snow from the top one inch of the cone because there is little exposure to the heated interior, but lots of exposure to the outside air. I was hoping that the reptile cord (unlike the pipe tape) doesn't get real hot. I was planning on placing the cord around the INNER cone so it make direct contact and can be place up near the top too. Of course, if it gets hot enough to melt the cone, that won't work.

Steve

The reptile cord doesn't got "hot" at all. To me, that is the magic of it. It is meant to be in contact with the animals so it doesn't get scorching hot. I wasn't aware until after I got it out of the box that only a small fraction of it actually got hot. I had envisioned placing it on the inner cone as well in some fashion, but settled for what I did after I got started building the whole thing. In hindsight, it might be a better idea to just do the inner cone with the heat cord instead of the outer cone... but to insulate the outer cone regardless.

Like I mentioned above, mine was was switch operated from the inside. On days when the temperature was relatively stable I would switch it from ON to OFF or vice versa. I did not notice any impact on the temperature. However, my ISS is FARS equipped. Double however, I did the ON/OFF test at night as well when the FARS has a minimal if any impact. There was no noticeable difference.

2 questions - one already answered (no temp sensor effect). I'm curious as to how well the scotch tape will hold up thru all the temp swings and general weather effects. Wouldn't something like metal duct tape be better, being you taping to the foil?

Mrgpk-Love to see people use their ingenuity to keep companies from ripping us off with their expensive aftermarket accessories! Thanks for sharing your invention with us, it was well-presented with all the photos! You should team up with Tinplate!

2 questions - one already answered (no temp sensor effect). I'm curious as to how well the scotch tape will hold up thru all the temp swings and general weather effects. Wouldn't something like metal duct tape be better, being you taping to the foil?

I love the whole idea and construction tho'! Outstanding!

Ya know... when I put it together, I had been waiting for it to make it to the top of my to-do list at the same time the weather was warm enough for me to go outside and futz with the ISS. When the stars finally aligned, sin of all sins for a DIY guy, I could not find my duct tape! So I'm wondering how well the scotch tape will hold up myself! =)

I had meant to note that in the instructions.

I've not opened it up for a checkup yet and likely won't until the end of the season, but it has not malfunctioned at all... and I think any problem would quickly expose itself with a non-functioning tipper.

Mrgpk: I went to the store after work and got all the supplies needed. I now have a working rain heater. I first tried the Pipe tape with the thermostat and WOW did it get hot. I then went to the Snake Store and got the real stuff $29.00 in Plaistow N.H.) Must be a high Import fee. Anyway all is well and It is working.Thanks for the help. Jim

If you live in an area where you need a rain gauge heater, then the hardware stores probably sell heat tape for gutters and water pipes Some include a thermostat, but you can get outboard ones. Here's a start.