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Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Avoided deportation for now, but that doesn't mean it won't happen later

For
anyone considering a move to Botswana, let me share a few important details
that may help with your move.Americans,
and citizens of most Western countries, are granted entry into Botswana without
a visa for 90 days within a 12 month period. However, do NOT overstay those 90
days.

Each
time you enter Botswana the customs officials examine your passport like a hawk.This is when it pays to have a brand spanking
new passport.Those of you with well
worn passports are doomed, that’s the truth of the matter.And heaven forbid if you’ve had extra pages
added (as I have) because then you might as well bring a good book to read while
they go through your passport.

The
last time I entered Botswana I got off a plane carrying about 50 people.Since I know the drill, and I like to be prepared (like a Boy Scout) I carry a handful of entry/exit forms and have them
already filled out before I even enter the terminal.I was the very first person to enter the
terminal from the plane- meaning I was the first person in line at passport
control.This is NOT an exaggeration:
every single other person on that plane went through passport control and were
already standing at the baggage carousel by the time they finally decided to
stamp my passport and let me in.I don’t
really know what the alternative would have been; the plane had already taken
off and returned to Kenya by the time they let me through.

Part
of the challenge with passport control here is that the Batswana, and Africans
in general, love rules and protocol.And
if you try to bend those rules the result is not pretty.I have never heard, nor do I ever anticipate
hearing the phrase, “Think outside the box” here.It’s just not part of the culture. A rule is
a rule is a rule.No wiggle room.

So
when they say you are permitted to be in Botswana for 90 days within a 12 month
period they take that very seriously.So
serious in fact, that the customs officer took out a pad of paper, flipped
through my passport and started writing down my entry and exit dates.She wanted to make sure she gave me the exact
amount of days I was permitted and not one extra.All was going well until all hell broke
loose.She realized I had entered in
July and then exited in August.A debate
ensued regarding the number of days in July.I even sang her the song, “Thirty days hath September, April,
June…”She wasn’t convinced.Someone was called to bring a calendar from a
back office.Then there was some
confusion because I entered Botswana on August 24 and exited later that afternoon.That means I lost one more day.

After
listing all my entry and exit dates and consulting a calendar, the friendly
passport control officer whipped out a calculator and began adding.But, this wasn’t enough.She called over another official for a second
opinion.From where I stood at Passport
Control I saw the passenger who had been in the seat next to me collect his bags
and exit the customs area!I began
silently repeating over and over again, “I love living in Africa. I love living
in Africa.”

Since
my contract with Fulbright is for a year I am required to obtain a Botswana
Residence Permit to get around the 90 day entry.I’m actually happy about this because it
should make my travels in and out of the country significantly easier (i.e. no
legal pads, calculators or calendars to consult).However, I was starting to become worried
about this because I applied for the Residence Permit back in August and as of
last week I still hadn’t received it.The Permit is nothing more than a sticker they put in your
passport.But I knew my entry stamp
expired on October 25th and on the 23rd I still hadn’t
received it.I had no desire to be
deported.After asking around I was
informed I could not be given a permit because the Immigration office had “run
out of stickers.”

I
began my PR campaign which may or may not have included a statement such as,
“It would be hugely embarrassing for The New York Times to run an article about
the Fulbright Scholar who was deported from Botswana after being INVITED to
come here because the Immigration office ran out of stickers.When exactly did the sticker supply start
running low?I applied for this permit
88 days ago, so does that mean no one has received a residence permit sticker
in the last 88 days.Did you deport all
of those people too?”

Miraculously,
my PR campaign worked and the very next day, with one day to spare on my entry
stamp, I received the Residence Permit sticker.Hooray!Queue the music: “Celebrate
good times, come on...”

Wait
a second! Stop the presses!Upon closer examination
my permit expires on…. May 31st.That could be a bit of a challenge considering my contract doesn’t end
until June 30th.I’ve already
contacted Immigration about the oversight.Now all I have to sit back, relax and wait until May 30th when
I should be granted my extension. “I love living in Africa. I love living in
Africa.”