Cosmetic labelling – The last free summer for the nano

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July 19, 2012 |
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In July 2013, the new EU directive on Cosmetics will come into play requiring manufacturers to state on the label of creams, lipsticks and sunscreens if nanoparticles are contained. European politicians have their say.

Materials defined as ‘nano’ are sized in billionths of a meter and show different physical and chemical properties from the bulk form. If added to a product they can enhance or change its features. For example, titanium dioxide is a known ultraviolet absorber and sun reflector additive in sunscreens, but manufacturers prefer it in its nano form. That’s because it makes the sunscreen transparent on the skin, instead of white. As well as declaring their presence on the label, the EU will require producers to submit a detailed safety report on the nanomaterials used.

Unanswered questions
It's difficult to decide for or against nano-labelling, because many questions need to be answered first. For example which nano definition do we want to use? Which size range do we choose for that and do we include natural particles as well? What should this labelling tell the consumer? Should consumers handle nano-products differently from standard ones? I don’t see these questions answered fully yet. Once we have the answers, then labelling more consumer products might be a good idea. Personally I would prefer a sunscreen without nanoparticles, but most sunscreens sold in Germany include them already.Rene Röspel, German MP.

Consumers should be informed
Nanotechnology is a powerful scientific field. Its advances can offer great opportunities for the EU’s growth, competitiveness and sustainable development. At the same time, nanomaterials may bear risks for consumers and workers. If cosmetics include nanomaterials, safety concerns must be paramount. Consumers should be informed of all product ingredients, including nanomaterials, in order to choose their products accordingly. I am therefore in favour of the labelling of nano-content in cosmetics and sunscreens. I personally will continue to use sunscreen containing nano-particles. Cosmetics manufacturers are prepared for the change in legislation and will have the opportunity to provide consumers with an even bigger variety.Richard Seeber, EU MP from Austria.

Nano-labelling in food should come before cosmetics
I clearly support the labeling of cosmetics and sunscreens containing nanomaterials. According to the Woodrow Wilson inventory on nanotechnology, 143 cosmetics products and 33 sunscreens currently on the market contain nanoparticles, so I suppose manufacturers will have to endeavor to evaluate safety and labelling standards. Similarly with the case of labeling of GM food products, I assume that nano-cosmetics labeling will slow down the business. In my opinion labelling is much important for food products containing nanomaterials, since several studies show that there is lack of safety information on various nanoparticles used in food. Personally I would not buy nano-sunscreens nor eat food containing nanomaterials.Maya Graf, Swiss MP.

Could labelling cause alarm?
I am not against the nano-labelling of cosmetics and products containing nanomaterials in general. But it’s important that any label comes with a key to understand what it says: the possible risks, the appropriate behavior to minimize that risk – we also need more research on these issues. But a label with no explanations could unleash alarmed reactions in the population. Personally I don’t have problems using sunscreens with added nanoparticles, since there is no proven risk for the skin. Instead, I would be more careful with products or materials that free nanoparticles in the air, because they could easily get into contact with our lungs thin tissue, altering cellular functions.Vittorio Prodi, EU MP from Italy.

Text: Emiliano Feresin.

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volTA was a magazine on Science, Technology and Society in Europe, initiative of fifteen technology assessment organisations that worked together in the European PACITA project aimed at increasing the capacity and enhancing the institutional foundation for knowledge-based policy-making on issues involving science, technology and innovation. It was published between 2011 and 2015 in 8 numbers.