2000 Chateau De L'Hyverniere, Muscadet Sevre et Maine, Sur Lie, Reserve ($11 Blue Hill Wine Shop). This was more wine than we've ever previously experienced in a Muscadet. The props. advised as much, and they were right. Even though alcohol was low (12%), the wine seemed much fuller. Considerably dryer than previous sharper versions, it was floral on the nose and upfront, yeasty on the palate, and finished wonderfully. Although these wines have a rep for marrying with shellfish and simplier fin fish dishes, we matched it successfully with haddock 'a la creme. Look for this one.