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Photo: Tuukka Koski

Dover

412 Court St. (at 1st Pl.)

Brooklyn, NY 11231

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Dover is the follow-up to Battersby, both of them among the most thrilling restaurants in Carroll Gardens if not all of Brooklyn. Co-chefs Walker Stern and Joseph Ogrodnek change the menu often, playing with French and Italian dishes by adding the occasional Asian touch. At Dover that might mean squid ink tagliatelle with peekytoe crab, Meyer lemon, incendiary chilies and a scattering of crunchy bread crumbs. The windowed corner space is relatively plain—blond wood, exposed brick, Bentwood-style bistro chairs—but the food tilts toward luxurious when it comes to caviar pie and chicken for two with black truffles. You get much more than you expect here, with delectable gifts from the chefs at beginning and end, and honeyed ricotta spread and white bean dip accompanying warm, wonderful bread.