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Every now and then there is a vote on the nation’s favourite food. The worthy winner one year was chicken tikka masala; another year saw fish and chips win. My suggestion would be the pie. I know this is controversial, as a pie could be any kind of pie: apple, steak and kidney or even a Cornish pasty. In fact it is clear what is happening: the pie vote is being split.

I was struck earlier this year by how our love of pies has travelled when I was watching my first Aussie rules football match at the Melbourne Cricket Ground. The pies being served were very much part of the day’s ritual, and indeed the quality of away fixtures seemed to be largely dependent on the quality of the pies on offer at...