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Saturday, 8 March 2014

The history of the shirt

In which G.M. Norton gets a little shirty with
you.

As a chap on a budget, thanks to the generous
donators at my local beneficiary boutiques, I’ve steadily amassed a wardrobe
fit for a gentleman.

However, there are a number of items sadly omitting
from my collection of clothes and I fear that my chances of finding them in a
charity shop is as likely as spotting the Loch Ness Monster playing a quick game
of water polo with the Abominable Snowman.

In order to obtain these key items, I have formed
the opinion that I will need to bite the bullet and purchase from vintage and
reproduction clothing emporiums.

One such item of clothing that I particularly covet is the tunic shirt with detachable collar. Such fine garments are the undisputable choice of the dandy with a bit of cash to splash.

Washable spearpoint collar, available from Darcy Clothing

A couple of weeks ago, I had the pleasure of having
brunch with a chum, Mr. Tom Carradine. Not only did Tom display an immaculate
lip weasel, the man was also wearing a Darcy Clothing detachable collar and
tunic shirt combination. Needless to say, since seeing one at close range, it
has only fuelled my desire to add one (or five) to my daily ensembles.

Tunic shirt from Darcy Clothing

For those who are a little oblivious at the mention
of detachable collars and tunic shirts, I will provide a little background into
their history.

In days of yore, no matter what your physical size
and shape was, shirts only came in one size. As an item of clothing that was
hidden from view, it was of no concern if the shirt was a decent fit. Indeed,
for men with shorter arms, they wore armbands (pictured below) to help prevent
the shirt sleeve from dropping too far down.

Note the armbands and thousand yard stare

As this was a long time ago and the washing machine was but a distant dream, laundering clothes was quite the kerfuffle. The kerfuffle being boiling, soaking, soaping, scrubbing, beating, rinsing, mangling, drying, ironing, starching and folder. Deep breath, dear reader.

It really is no surprise that men of yesteryear only had their shirts washed when it was absolutely necessary. As collars are the area that attract the most wear (and dirt), a bright spark by the name of Hannah Lord Montague of Troy decided to cut the stained collar from her beloved's shirt. She washed, starched and ironed the collar before skilfully stitching it back on.

By detaching the collar, the lifespan of the shirt was extended. Needless to say, this moment of inspiration quickly spread and soon every Thomas, Richard and Henry were wearing them.

That is until the First World War
when stiff collared shirts were deemed unsuitable for the grim practicalities
of life in the trenches. Instead, our brave soldiers were issued with soft
collar shirts instead. Naturally, they became used to the comfort and ease of
soft shirts and were reluctant to return to their firmer, starchier counterparts.

It wasn’t until the late 1920s that
detachable collars were cast into the abyss, only being worn in modern times for
formal black tie soirees and by the legal profession.

For the sartorially savvy though, there
really is something to say about the tunic shirt and detachable collar option.
Not only do you have the variety of collar style to choose from (including
wing, club and spearpoint), but the original reason for Hannah Lord Montague of
Troy cutting up her husband’s shirt is still prevalent today.

Regular as clockwork

Best Vintage Blog in the UK 2014

Manchester's Best Vintage Lifestyle Blog 2013

What-ho!

G.M. Norton is an aspiring English gentleman. Follow
him as he embarks on a journey befitting fellow quest seekers Sir
Galahad and Mr. Phileas Fogg in search of his holy grail - a gentlemanly
existence. Prepare to dance with death and fox-trot your life away as
he regales you with tales of sartorial splendour, jolly japes and
dastardly deeds. A rip-roaring adventure awaits.