Got my own licron can today and tested it on a sample mylar piece. The sponge applied layer is mighty thin, and dries up in couple of minutes. Should I put on two (or even three) such cotas, wait 6-12 hours between them so the last layer dries completely, what do you think? I don't have equipment to measure the surface resistance (multimeter goes to 50meg). How did you apply it Wrinex? I first sprayed the stuff into a small (25ml) container bottle from where I apply it to the sponge and then wipe on.

One is usually good as long as it is wetted well.
Although I sometimes use two just to be sure as it is so thin.
I apply it directly to to the diagphram and swab it around.
I orginally used a paper towel wetted with it to swab it with.
I have only got to use it a few times on my mini panels.
Charlie and a few others say that a sponge brush works great.
I will use that method next time as I think that it will be less of a waste of material than using a paper towel.

I haven't had any issues with the Crystal formula in the the last two years since that it has been applied.
Or with the licron regular as well for the last 9 years since when It first came out when I discovered it.

My only issue is burning holes in the mylar !!! He,he,he,he!!!!

I have used my panels within an hour or less after applying the coating.
As long as it has cured or dried it is good to go!

I spray coated some diaphragms once where I didn’t have quite enough Licron and/or pressure left in the aerosol can to completely cover the diaphragms--- it was a panic situation but I happened to have a foam paint brush handy and I used that to spread the coating over the diaphragms. It worked fine but brushing the coating does result in
what I would describe as “prismatic streaks” in the coating; whereas, a nice wet spray coat will produce a clear, streak free coating. I can say that one wet coat works great but I can’t say how little you could get by with. Since the coating is so thin anyway, there’s not much downside, mass-wise, to using a wet coat that I know will work fine versus a thinner wiped on coating, which may or may not work as well.

I think I will coat them twice. I agree with the little streaks when applied with a sponge.

Spraying the stuff is risky with my setup, and I also want to leave 1cm gap around spacers so the panel ticks the least with high voltages. Also some dirt in the spacers won't cause leaks this way. The most usual places I get ticking are at the spacers if they get in contact with the HV. I could use a transparent tape as a liner for the spacers and then take it off after spraying the coatin though. But the fear of leaks, even with good lining and protection, might ultimately keep me from spraying.

I have had good luck masking off with 3M blue painters tape and spraying the coating on with an air-brush.
The air-brush gives you much better spray pattern control and uniformity than the usual spray nozzle.

Blue painters tape is great stuff!
When I didn't have any I would spray the edge of some sheets of copy paper with some 3M sticky stuff and mask the whole perimeter with it.
That way it was large enough to catch any over spray that might get where it is not wanted.
It didn't leave any residue at all when I peeled it off.
The 3M sticky stuff is so terrible anymore that I could only use it once and I rarely get a second use out of my homemade masking's.

Double coating with a sponge made the membrane quite smoky and it's impossible to get homogenous transparency. The spacer surrounds are uncoated on purpose. I still think it might not be that bad from under the stators, as long as there is no window at the backside (and there won't be due to UV).

I have not tested the coating yet, I hope the sensitivity is fffing great and THD still very low to compensate the loss in aesthetics.