Viognier? Schiava? Lacrima? Ruché? They may not be famous (yet), but they all make for some great wines

While everybody loves a Sangiovese or Nebbiolo, at Domenico Valentino we do our best to provide you with some of the more obscure wines found throughout Italy, still often relatively unknown on these shores. One of the aspects which makes Italian wine so fascinating is its great variety, both in winemaking styles and in its grape varieties. This week we are excited to introduce four wines made from four different grapes, each of which might not yet roll off the tongue of the average U.S. wine consumer. But the commitment of these producers to making wine from local varieties, plus our determination to introduce them to a wider audience, can only mean these rare grapes won’t remain unknown for much longer.

Cinerino 2006 Abbona / PiemonteAlthough the Viognier grape is cultivated traditionally in the Rhône valley of France where small amounts are blended with Syrah in the Côte Rôtie appellation, recent DNA analysis of the grape has shown that it is a “white” cousin of Nebbiolo, the variety used to make Barolo and Barbaresco. Ever since, the experimenter Marziano Abbona has produced this Viognier from grapes grown in Dogliani (since no appellation exists for Viognier there, it is simply called a Vino da Tavola or “table wine”). He named it after the elegant gray heron of Northern Italy, the airone cinerino meaning the “ashen heron” (from the Italian cenere or “ash”).

Schiava Bischofsleiten 2007 Castel Sallegg / Trentino-Alto AdigeThat mouthful of a name means Schiava at its best. A grape variety that has grown for generations on the steep slopes of sub-Alpine Alto Adige, Schiava produces a lightly-colored red wine that is a local favorite. The variety finds its greatest expression on the western side of Lake Caldaro where, trained in the traditional pergola system, grapes can achieve maximum ripeness and attain the most unique reflection of their terroir. Bischofsleiten, or “Bishop’s Slope”, is a vineyard named for its founder, the Bishop of Trento, and is considered by many area producers to be the zone’s best site.

Lacrima di Morro d’Alba 2007 Enzo Mecella / MarcheThe Marche town Morro d’Alba (not to be confused with the town of Alba in the Langhe), is home to the grape Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, and one of the most exciting recent DOC varieties to emerge from Central Italy. Enzo Mecella specializes in local varieties, and his Lacrima is a fine expression of the fruit. The name lacrima, meaning “tear drop”, is still the subject of some debate. Many say it simply refers to the oval shape of the grape, or the formation of the grape clusters. Others argue the name is due to the “tears” that this rich grape shows in hot summer months when the skins of some berries split and the grapes “cry.”

Ruché di Castiglione Monferrato 2007 Luca Ferraris / PiemonteLuca Ferraris’ flagship wine comes from his “Bric d’Bianc” vineyard, part of an entire hill between Castagnole Monferrato and Scurzolengo which he purchased in 2000. The cultivation of Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato is limited to the town of Castagnole Monferrato near Asti, making it one of the smallest denominations in Italy. Though once of modest output, production is now expanding due to its award of DOC status, and Ferraris remains one of only a handful of producers who focus on the grape. Luca recently showed us his Salotto del Ruché or “Ruché Parlour”, a network of underground chambers where he vinifies and ages his wine.

This week we are excited to be featuring the wines of Luca Ferraris, one of Piedmont’s youngest new producers. Luca’s wines have just arrived at Domenico Valentino, and we are thrilled to add them to our portfolio.

It’s been a special week for the young winemaker, who is also celebrating the birth of his first daughter, Ilaria. In honor of both these new arrivals, Domenico Valentino is offering these three Luca Ferraris wines for tasting next week.

Chiara and Luca Ferraris with little Ilaria, the
latest addition to their happy family.

All three wines will be available for tasting by appointment next week. If you are interested in tasting the featured wines and wish to arrange a meeting, please email michele@domenicovalentino.com or call 718 902-1140.

One of the most exciting young producers to emerge from Piemonte in recent years, Luca Ferraris’ vineyard is located in Castagnole Monferrato, a comune in the province of Asti. It is home of the variety Ruché and the DOC Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato. Some of Ferraris’ production is vinified and aged within the town’s castle walls, in an ancient vault purchased by the young producer’s great-grandfather. This network of chambers is dominated by a narrow central room which Ferraris calls “Il Salotto del Ruché“ or, “The Ruché Parlour”. It is here that medieval history and modern technology combine to further Piemonte’s winemaking tradition.

Barbera d’Asti
One of Piedmont’s oldest grape varieties, Barbera d’Asti is believed to have originated in the Monferrato hills. Its first formal citation appeared in a 17th century document now housed in the city hall of Nizza Monferrato. A DOC since 1970, Barbera d’Asti is generally found in the calcareous, clayey land between the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. Luca Ferraris’ Barbera d’Asti comes from his “Vigna del Martin“, a single vineyard in Castagnole Monferrato named after the producer’s grandfather Martino.

Grignolino d’Asti
Grignolino is a grape variety which has long been grown in Piedmont, though the Grignolino d’Asti DOC is often overshadowed by some of the region’s more famous denominations. Its name comes from “grignole“, which in local dialect refers to the unusual abundance of seeds inside the grapes. What was once an abundant variety, Grignolino cultivation suffered especially when a plague of vine destroying parasites swept through the region. As a result, production is limited, a problem which has served to only enhance the wines’ appeal. The variety is being resurrected by fine young producers such as Luca Ferraris, whose Grignolino d’Asti comes from his “Vigna del Casot“, a single vineyard in Castagnole Monferrato.

Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato
The cultivation of Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato is limited to Castagnole Monferrato, making it one of the smallest denominations in Italy. Though a once of modest output, production is now expanding due to its award of DOC status. Luca Ferraris’ flagship wine comes from his “Bric d’Bianc” vineyard, part of an entire hill between Castagnole Monferrato and Scurzolengo which Ferraris purchased himself in 2000. He divided the land into four parts, three of which are devoted to the cultivation of Ruché.

Domenico Valentino is excited to introduce the wines of producer Luca Ferraris. The Luca Ferraris vineyard is located in Castagnole Monferrato, a comune in the province of Asti in Piemonte and home of the variety Ruché and the D.O.C. Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato.

Some of Ferraris’ production is vinified and aged within the town’s castle walls, in an ancient vault purchased by the young producer’s great-grandfather. This network of chambers is dominated by a narrow central room which Ferraris calls Il Salotto del Ruché or, “The Ruché Parlour”. It is here that medieval history and modern technology combine to further Piemonte’s winemaking tradition.

Luca himself is in New York this week and will be joining us for tasting appointments Wednesday, May 28.

For more information on Luca Ferraris’ wines visit the producer pages of our website.