Yes. The #6 battery negative. Yes, I get 49.2 volts with the charger turned off, 56.5 when its on. I've wrapped all the battery tie downs with electrical tape and I took the batteries out and sprayed liquid rubber on all the battery baskets...anything that might be touching any part of a battery. The strange thing is that it doesn't seem to discharge the batteries...not very quickly anyway as the voltage reads the same after hours at rest.

Oops! You said "charger plugged in", not sure, as soon as it finishes the charge cycle I'll test. I just turned the AC off and measured so as to not interrupt the charge cycle. It's doing the equalization thing now, so shouldn't be much longer. Thanks for replying to my rambling know-nothing posts.

Stray voltage readings are not uncommon on sparky carts. I have never seen a definitive answer as to why, but I do know a way to test it and determine whether you should be concerned about it.

If you read a voltage from point A to point B, simply substitute your probes for the terminals of a pigtailed taillight bulb. If the bulb lights AND STAYS LIT, you have an issue somewhere. If the bulb doesn't light, or goes out right away, the issue is ghost voltage, and is probably of no concern as it is incapable of sustaining a draw. Clean batteries are happy batteries.

Edit: This assumes that the voltage being applied to the bulb doesn't wipe out the bulb instantly. Retesting will prove the bulb is still valid.

Stray voltage readings are not uncommon on sparky carts. I have never seen a definitive answer as to why, but I do know a way to test it and determine whether you should be concerned about it.

If you read a voltage from point A to point B, simply substitute your probes for the terminals of a pigtailed taillight bulb. If the bulb lights AND STAYS LIT, you have an issue somewhere. If the bulb doesn't light, or goes out right away, the issue is ghost voltage, and is probably of no concern as it is incapable of sustaining a draw. Clean batteries are happy batteries.

Edit: This assumes that the voltage being applied to the bulb doesn't wipe out the bulb instantly. Retesting will prove the bulb is still valid.

Just checked mine with a Fluke, had 30 volts from #6 negative to frame and down about battery volts till the fourth from negative #6 and it was -5 volts. Tried a H1 headlight bulb that lit on the single battery but not from frame to Negative, Checking Allen Bradley PLC outputs with a Digital meter would give a voltage reading , so we were shown the load with a lamp trick .