stator of course

Looks like I might need another stator real soon.Thr voltmeter is telling me it is charging at 12.2 at idle.It gets well over 13 when riding but it might be close to the end.Only about 6000 klms on it.

I've bought stators from just about everyone. Tim Parrott on eBay has the best prices, but requires an OEM stator core and I'm not sure about his shipping policies out of the US.

I bought the last 2 from RM Stator in Canada. Prices higher than Tim Parrott, but no core to deal with. They normally have some available on eBay - or try a web search for them. I've been very happy with their service and shipping to Colorado has been fast. They use the same Chinese supplier as Electrosport.

Rick's (direct from the source) was good as well, but the highest price I've spent. I also bought an R/R from them and didn't discover until after it arrived that it was an OEM type & their product info didn't say anything about it being the same one as originally installed. Plus, it is the R/R that was faulty from new, likely causing all my premature stator failures.

If you're in Canada, I'd say to go with RM Stator. US, and you have an OEM core, Tim Parrott. If no OEM core, then Dennis Kirk is the best source.

Your v measurements are borderline, is your volt meter absolutely reliable? Does it have a fresh battery and are you getting a good ground. Borrow another to get a second opinion. I say this because I recently suspected my stator was acting up, so I taped my multi meter to my gas tank and rode around. I got some odd ball measurements. It turned out my aligator clip on my ground lead connection was vibrating causing a false reading. I followed up with a secure connection and got normal readings. Before you replace an expensive item, make sure you have accurately diagnosed the symptom.

I actually put a charger on the battery to see if it would charge and the last reading I got was 13.4 on the voltmeter.It has been charging for an hour.Originally it was reading 12.2 so the battery is charging.I took it for a little spin and twice when I stopped at a light it was like the bike was going to die before going so I got to thinking the battery might be screwed.But if the stator is not charging it that would cause that as well.Once it is fully charged I am going to take it for another spin and we will see.

So you have a new stator now then? OK. Check your connections on the stator to make sure they are all tight and secure. Make sure the battery connections are tight and clean as well and that your ground wire is tight and clean.

I'm not a big electrical guy with enough experience to tell you enough about the dynamics of Vision charging but YJ usually charges between 13.9 and 15.1 or so volts.

The stator was bought in August of last year and has abour 6000 klms on it.I checked everything I could and everything seems to be connected properly.That's when I decided to charge the battery.The problem is when it idles it only charges at 12 volts.

The charging system can be anemic at idle - especially if you are running any extra electrics. If I've just got the normal ignition, headlight & maybe a turn indicator going, at idle, my volt gauge will show around 13.5 volts. If I add in the brake light, it drops to about 13 volts. With the auxilliary lights (2x55 watts) running, the volts drop below 12 at idle (when combined with all the other stuff). As soon as I get rolling & the revs go over 2K, the charging goes right back up to 14+ volts.

That was with my old battery. It stopped holding a charge last week & I replaced it Thursday with an Interstate AGM unit. Hoping the volts remain higher now, but if you're getting charging @ 13.5 volts or higher when running over 2K RPMs, your charging system is working OK. Maybe a bit weak, but still, 13.5V is putting more into your battery than you're using.

I'll let y'all know what the volt gauge reads under various circumstances when I return from the 300 mile ride i'm headed for tomorrow (6/28). My stator & R/R have about 200 miles on them & the battery is new (tomorrow is first run with it). I figure that's about the best the charging system will ever work.

Always nice to have spares to swap & test. Hope it's just the battery. I was very happy to get 5+ years out of my last one. Use a Battery Tender Jr. all the time on mine, but it was totally discharged a couple times when stators fried & spent a few hundred miles getting 17+ volts pumped through it when my R/R fried.

To piggyback on this thread, I checked the voltage coming out of my stator today and it's 12.63 volts regardless of the RPM. My battery is less than a year old and reads at just over 13 volts. So I'm guessing that my stator is going out.

The reason why I checked is that as I was riding down the street today and a fuse blew out, which caused the bike to lose all power. I was happy that I had a spare fuse under the seat. Is this a symptom of a bad stator or should I check out the R/R? How to you test a R/R for correct volt management?

In all my stator frying experience, I've never had a fuse blow contemporaneous with the stator frying. When mine go, they die all of a sudden. Once, I saw the needle on the volt gauge jump a couple times as the stator croaked, but generally, they just go suddenly, with no appreciable time to watch the voltage slowly drop other than watching the battery lose its charge. The gauge will go from 14+ volts right to 13, sit there a short time and begin to slowly drop as the bike consumes the angry electrons stored in the battery.

There is a flowchart on the electrosport website (and maybe on the original ROV site as well) that guides you through a thorough test of the entire charging system. Normally, when the stator dies, you will get readings on a voltmeter that correspond to the voltage in the battery.