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I have one word when it comes to pairing Christmas turkey with its perfect white: chardonnay. I’m sorry if you don’t like the sound of it, but this is – by far – the grape variety that best suits the festive bird.

That said, it’s a chameleon-like grape that changes style according to where and how it is made.

So you can avoid rich, toasty-oaky New World chardonnay (the style that tends to divide the room) by picking a more refined and subtle one from France. Burgundy, probably, and northern Burgundy for a chardonnay from Chablis if you want a more elegant, cooler-climate, subtler take...