A few months ago, I spent about thirty minutes with Bobby Flay in the kitchen of his new Midtown Manhattan restaurant, Bar Americain. As is often the case when you cook with professional chefs, you learn a lot even when you think you have a subject covered. We were talking about—and making—salad dressings. They are one of those linchpins of cooking that couldn't be easier to prepare (a basic vinaigrette is just oil, vinegar, and Dijon mustard), but their potency is enormous. Homemade dressings will enliven and elevate any salad, making it something you want to eat instead of something you think you're supposed to eat.

Flay covered some basic points (the slower you drizzle the oil, the thicker the dressing will be) and explained that a dressing is just as suited for grilled fish, chicken, or vegetables as it is for salads. Professional chefs think outside the box like that a lot. Flay and his colleagues will often use a fifty-fifty blend of olive oil and a neutral oil, such as canola, when they want a more subtle flavor for salads with delicate leaves. They'll add a dollop of honey to sweeten dressing; fold in chopped tomatoes, olives, and thyme for a Mediterranean tinge; or throw in some cilantro and chilies for a southwestern punch.

But it's not enough to know how to make a dressing; you need to know how to dress a salad. First, season the salad itself with salt and pepper. Then, just before serving, add the leaves to a large bowl and drizzle the dressing around the inside of the bowl. With your hands, gently toss the leaves against the dressing till they're lightly coated. Pick up a bunch of leaves and lightly place them on a plate. And yes, it's okay to use your hands. As Flay or any other chef will tell you, they're the best kitchen tools you have.

Ingredients

1part Dijon mustard

2parts vinegar*

5parts extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

Step 1

In a large bowl, spoon in some Dijon, add vinegar, and whisk together. Slowly drizzle in olive oil, whisking continuously until you have a thick, glossy emulsion. Season with salt and pepper.

Step 2

At this point you can brighten the dressing with a squirt of fresh lemon juice, sweeten it with a bit of honey, add punch with minced shallots or chives, or infuse it with any number of fresh herbs. When adding herbs and other ingredients, such as chopped tomatoes and olives, it's good to let the dressing sit for several hours so the flavors can meld.

* The type of vinegar will determine, to an extent, the character of the dressing. The French typically prefer red-wine vinegar. Balsamic will give the dressing a sweeter, more pronounced flavor. Sherry vinegar works well with bold Mediterranean dishes. Rice-wine vinegar gives you a clean, delicate flavor and is, of course, well suited for Asian food.