Happiness for the clan who runs Happy Family Chinese Restaurant in Seneca Falls clearly comes in a cup of tea.

When my husband and I stopped in last week, the lunch crowd was on its way out, and Lily Lin, who runs the handsome, brick and wood sit-down restaurant with her husband, Mark, was preparing for a well-deserved midday break. Her idea of on-the-job relaxation? A kungfu tea break at the back table, which she was eager to share with us.

Here is the abridged version of this ancient, meditative ritual: With a carafe of hot water and a slatted tray, Lin showered hot water over a tiny pot, which flowed down to a catch-tray underneath. Then she lifted the lid and poured the hot water inside, bringing a dry nest of gray-green oolong leaves swimming to life. She bathed even tinier cups in tea, then emptied the cups with elongated tweezers to keep them clean. She filled the pot again, let it steep, then filled the cups, gesturing for us to drink.

Thank-yous are not necessary, just a quick trio of finger taps on the tray is enough to express gratitude, she adds.

Kungfu (or you might find it spelled gongfu), signifies a skill or practice that is studied and thoughtfully carried out. In regards to Chinese tea rituals, Lin is a kungfu master.

Not all customers are lucky enough to arrive at Lily Lin’s tea time at Happy Family. But anyone who comes here can order from the restaurant’s unique tea menu, described not by taste by medicinal properties.

Happy Family serves happy meals too. We bypassed “luncheon specials” ($5.89 to $6.89, sold Monday through Saturday until 3 p.m.) and went straight to the “Authentic Chinese Food” page.

A “West Lake” fish soup had a thickened egg broth with ginger and pieces of fried fish ($6.99, plenty for two or three people). The tart, sharp and spicy chicken with pickled cabbage ($9.49, and let it go on the record that cabbage here is an unidentifiable yet delicious leafy green) is a good match for sauerkraut lovers. Chewy, oily chow fun rice noodles ($7.99) with broccoli, mung sprouts and mushroom bits was the most indulgent dish we ordered.

Before planting a pair of foo dogs in front of the classy wood-and-brick building (where the former Henry B’s first started), the Lins used to run China Express at the Waterloo Premium Outlets in Junius, Seneca County. Later this year, they plan to open a tea shop near the retail mecca, where fine loose-leaf teas and paraphernalia will be sold.

The restaurant does not yet sell tea, but customers can purchase intriguing (and not too cheap) kungfu tea sets there. The dishes on which food is served look much like those you can buy at the outlet mall.