I would prefer a bow that fits my draw and form, you should be able to set your bow arm and draw and come to anchor without having to fidget or reposition your head while starring at the target of choice.

As far as all the old school long axle to axle preference.

Take a modern mid size bow today and lay it on top of a older long axle compound and you may be surprised that the newer bows riser is longer then the older long axle bow then put both of the bows in a draw board and draw back and then measure the axle to axle, you may find that the axle to axle of the older long axle bow to be very close or even in some cases less then the modern bow at full draw, now think about the travel time of the limbs while the arrow is on the string in relation to forgiveness and accuracy.

Modern bows with longer risers and laid back limbs that travel very little may not look as being less forgiving and accurate as the old school.

Kevin Wilkey filmed it and said he was going to try and get it on Hoyt's website.

He had to do a little editing though. A couple conversations won't probably be aired. Cuz even looked right at the camera once and asked Kevin to shut it off before he answered the question.

There is a reason many of these top level pros don't post on the net. Some of the things they do (that obviously work) tend to get them bashed from the keyboard wannabe's.

There were a couple comments in that seminar I would have thrown the "BS" flag had it not been proven in front of my eyes.

I hope Dave's demonstration that dispelled some hybrid cam timing/tuning myths makes the cut, but I doubt it will. Conventional wisdom and even physics were questioned with that display

There are many things that we do as individuals to make a bow work for us that won't work for anyone else, just as there are fifty or more ways to make a hinged release fire and everyone that successfully uses one finds the way that works for them alone. Even the very top pros in the sport can't agree on that one...

There are many things that we do as individuals to make a bow work for us that won't work for anyone else, just as there are fifty or more ways to make a hinged release fire and everyone that successfully uses one finds the way that works for them alone. Even the very top pros in the sport can't agree on that one...

To further prove your point on "differences among pros", Cuz is a devout believer in paper tuning whereas Reo puts very little value in paper tuning. Reo even added that having a "tune" that makes a bullet hole tear in paper may not be ideal.

One thing they agreed on was when the question from the crowd about "creep tuning" was asked. All 3 guys (Jesse, Reo and Cuz) looked at each other shaking their heads. Cuz made a joke out of how much of a waste of time it is and we went on.

To further prove your point on "differences among pros", Cuz is a devout believer in paper tuning whereas Reo puts very little value in paper tuning. Reo even added that having a "tune" that makes a bullet hole tear in paper may not be ideal.

One thing they agreed on was when the question from the crowd about "creep tuning" was asked. All 3 guys (Jesse, Reo and Cuz) looked at each other shaking their heads. Cuz made a joke out of how much of a waste of time it is and we went on.

Many of the differences can be attributed to different methods of arriving at the same place. Jesse, Cuz and Reo may not creep tune but I assure you they arrive at the same place via another method. After all creep tuning is just another method of tuning the bow to fit you.. Some people use tiller tuning, others read their loop and still others will move their nock point until they “feel” the bow is right.. None of them are wrong, each has found what works for them; but the reason this information is not usually freely shared is simple...

Someone will always tell you that you're wrong and no one really likes to be told that, especially when it works for you.

This wasn't exactly the direction I thought this thread would go, but it's interesting...

I'm mostly responsible for the direction it went, and kind of got off track. let's see if we can steer this bus back to the middle of the road....

My perception of whether I make the bow fit me vs fitting myself to the bow is a little of both.

I have taken every opportunity to shoot all the bows I can to find what configuration "compliments" my natural build and style with as little alteration as possible needed.

What I have found is the bow that fits me best is one with a thin flat-backed grip. I have found that I am more comfortable with a lower wrist style (ultra elite) grip than that of a higher wrist (pro elite).

Being a 31" dl I like the string angle of a bow in the 39" to 41" ATA range. I like limbs that are non-parallel enough to give a little feedback. I like a cam configuration that has a wicked-hard back wall, low let-off and a narrow valley that discourages creep.

The bow I have found that fits me best is the vantage elite with spirals. This bow points were I look at 40 yards with the tiller even. At 20 yards it points high in the top of the 9-ring on a Vegas face with even tiller.

By "fitting the bow to me" I am more confident that when my form or focus breaks down or I make another mistake of some kind that the bow will be more "forgiving" of my error.

In my experience "fitting myself to a bow" requires a lot more conscious effort to be consistent. When the "honeymoon" of a new/different bow wears off and my subconscious and instincts take over the mistakes I make seem much more exaggerated.

This wasn't exactly the direction I thought this thread would go, but it's interesting...

Sorry JAVI, my fault too.

On the original question, I think that the goal should be to fit the bow to the archer. However, in reality there is a little of the opposite.

My weekend shooting is an example of this. I've been shooting my Hoyt regularly for the past 1 1/2 year. But I shoot 2712's and I didn't want to change it for a FITA shoot on Sunday. So I pulled out my old Mathews, checked the tuning and took it to the shoot. I started out shooting poorly, but by the middle of the round I was shooting normally. I noticed that I had to change my shoulder position and my hand slightly to get off my shot. In other words I adapted my form to the bow.

Then Monday at league, I noticed that I had to reverse the changes for my Hoyt. Again, I adapted to the bow.

If you asked me this question last week, I would have said that in all cases I adjust the bow to me, but now I see that I do make small adjustments to adapt my form to the bow.

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