Mario Mondin, longtime owner of the Blue Fox -- one of San Francisco's poshest and liveliest restaurant in its day -- died at his home in the city on March 25. He was 87.

Mr. Mondin operated the Blue Fox, which billed itself as "the restaurant across from the morgue," for 51 years. In the 1950s, '60s and '70s, it was regularly listed as one of the country's top restaurants by Holiday magazine and the Mobil guides.

They came for the swank decor -- gold-leaf walls, chandeliers and red carpet -- as well as specialties like vitello tonnato, pheasant baked in clay and strawberries Armagnac. Herb Caen once noted that the Blue Fox served radicchio salad 35 years before it became trendy.

"It was a real jet-set place," said Herb Morey, Mr. Mondin's son-in-law. "L.A. didn't have any good restaurants back then, so a lot of people would come up to San Francisco for the weekend to eat at the Blue Fox."

Mr. Mondin, a native of Venice, Italy, came to San Francisco in 1929. He worked as a busboy and bartender until he had saved enough money to buy the Blue Fox, which during Prohibition had been a well-known speakeasy.

With business partner Piero Fassio and later with Fassio's son, Robert, Mr. Mondin owned the Blue Fox from 1942 to 1993, when the restaurant closed and he retired. It was situated at 659 Merchant St., an alley off Montgomery Street, directly across from the city morgue.

Mr. Mondin's clientele was not limited to movie stars. During World War II, he served sailors and soldiers as his guests, and the wine cellar was in high demand for conventions.

A 50-yard-line season-ticket holder for 49ers home games since 1946, Mr. Mondin also was the host of private parties for the team's linemen and their dates. Over the years, they gave him autographed footballs, a jersey with his name on it and other mementos.

Although he loved football, opera and good conversation, the restaurant was his passion. He spent days working with the kitchen staff and nights greeting diners. To get Mr. Mondin's attention, visiting salesmen would take off their coat, roll up their sleeves and help him prepare a basket of string beans, Morey said.

Mr. Mondin is survived by his wife, Tina, who worked with him at the restaurant for 45 years; a son, Robert; a daughter, Linda Morey; five grandchildren; and one great- grandchild.

A wake is scheduled from 2 to 8 p.m. tomorrow at Halsted N. Gray- Carew and English funeral home, 1123 Sutter St., San Francisco.