The Sudra's Colorful Vegan Fare

The Ocean goes Indian, by way of New Mexico.

It takes only a single, crunchy bite of pakora to fall for the Sudra—maybe two if you’re a vegan-skeptic. The Indian-inspired saloon’s squatty florets of quick-pickled broccoli and cauliflower, dunked in spiced chickpea flour batter and served straight from the fryer, are truly habit-forming.

With its cross-cultural menu and curio cabinet space, the Sudra (which in December took over Basa Basa’s berth in the Ocean, Northeast Portland’s microrestaurant complex) provides a very different kind of comfort food than its meaty, gut-busting neighbors.