- 1910 gets an extra HDMI input (4 vs 3), but drops some legacy inputs (only 2 component video, and only 1 s-video which can ONLY be used with Denon ipod dock control as per NOTE on pg 9 of manual)

- 1910 gets new ABT video processor which allows for HDMI > HDMI scaling up to 1080p (pg 34 of manual)... but still no OSD overlay.

- 1910 weighs 1.8 lbs less (23.6 vs 25.4)... but has identical power specs (90W x 7 @ 0.08% THD) so judgement withheld for now as to whether the 1910 has less "real" power.

- 1910 gets Dolby PLIIz with the ability to reassign the SURR.BACK to FRONT HEIGHT for alternative 7.1 setup.

That's about it! They are almost identical in most other respects.

Other relatively minor functional differences:

1. The new video processor apparently also allows the 1910 to handle 1080p component > HDMI conversion (pg 9 of the manual no longer has a footnote specifying this restriction, and even specifically references 1080p component coming out at 1080p). However, the OSD looks basically the same and the overlay restrictions (only on s-vid / composite) are unchanged; apparently you need to step up to 2310/890 level for a real GUI w/ overlay.

2. There are now SEVEN discrete video names to which you can assign inputs: DVD, HDP, TV, CBL/SAT, VCR, DVR, V-AUX (which shares front panel inputs). This means you can hook up more devices with discrete name access (no need to "stack" inputs) and actually use all six hi-def inputs (4 HDMI + 2 component) without needing to borrow the "V-AUX" name from the front panel inputs. Note, however, that there is now only one "audio only" input name (currently "CD" is the only audio only input name).

3. Dynamic EQ gets a "Reference Level Offset" which can be accessed in Surround Parameters; note that, functionally, it is identical to adjusting the "Source Level" for an input, but the easy access in "Surround Parameters" menu means you can make "bass taming" tweaks on the fly more easily.

4. HDMI Control gets a "Standby Source" setting (see pg 28) which allows you to specify which HDMI input is "passed through" to your TV. No need to remember to switch inputs before you power down!

5. The evil two-sided flip-door remote lives on However, there is now a discrete "Source Select" button on the front (the big button under the D-Pad, used to be the "Restorer" button) which cycles through your inputs (so you don't have to go to the hidden flip door to select a source that didn't make the cut for the front panel).

6. Direct mode "purists" rejoice! You no longer have the option to use Audyssey at all with any Direct mode (regular, pure, or multich) according to the chart on pg 58 of the 1910 manual.

7. The "LPF for LFE" setting has moved from the "Crossover Freq" menu and now lives in the "Bass Setting" menu (pg 26 of manual). This should reduce some confusion (e.g. it's not a crossover!) although the wording in the Denon manual makes it sound like it's an HPF for the subwoofer, and not just the LFE channel.

8. MANUAL EQ adjustment has moved into the "Surround Parameter" menu so it can be accessed on-the-fly more easily

9. The Volume Control can now be optionally set to "absolute" or "relative" value (see pg 30 of manual). So anyone who hates the "negative numbers" style of volume, you can set it to go from 0 to 99!

10. There is a "Zone Rename" function (pg 31) so you can rename "Zone 2" to say "Patio" or whatever.

11. They have apparently removed the HDMI options for "Color Space" and "RGB Range". Ostensibly these were just confusing people and it is now essentially stuck in "auto" mode for color space.

Q. What is the difference between the three-digit models (e.g. AVR 790) and the four-digit models (e.g. AVR 1910)?

A: Essentially, NOTHING. Denon puts out two parallel receiver lineups, with four-digit and three-digit model numbers. The four-digit models are generally sold by high end stereo shops and custom installers, and the three-digit models are the "consumer" version sold in retail outlets like Circuit City and Fry's.

However, there is ZERO difference in terms of power, specs, sound quality, build quality, etc. between the two lines. Denon has been doing this for years, it is exactly analagous to the Yamaha HTR and RX-V parallel receiver lines.

There will usually be one or two minor differences to differentiate the three-digit and four-digit models. There is typically a slight cosmetic difference between the two lines, and different remotes.

In the specific case of the 1910 vs. 790, the only differences (besides the cosmetics) is:

1. the 1910 has A/B speaker switching, whereas the 790 only has "A" front speakers
2. the 1910 adds a "room to room" remote control jack for wired control from Zone 2
In all other respects, the 1910 and 790 are IDENTICAL.

Q. What do I gain from stepping up to the 1910/790, as opposed to just buying the lower-priced AVR 1610/590 model?

A: The 1610 (aka 590) is a very full-featured entry level model that will be sufficient for most people. It has 3 HDMI inputs, full HD audio decoding, analog > digital video conversion (so you can run one HDMI cable to your TV for all sources), and the full "Audyssey suite" of MultEQ + Dynamic EQ + Dynamic Volume. The 1910 / 790 is very similar and built on the same platform / chassis. They have similar amp sections, identical processing and DAC's, etc.

The following are the "step up" features you gain from going to 1910 (aka 790):

1. The 1910 is a full 7.1 receiver. The 1610/590 is a 5.1 receiver (5 amps built in) but can be expanded to 7.1 using the "Rear/Height" pre-outs to add an external amplifier. You have your choice of 7.1 expansion methods, either PLIIx (standard 7.1 with 2 "rear" channels) or PLIIz (5.1 + 2 "height" channels).

2. The 1910 has a 4th HDMI input, and adds an extra coaxial digital audio input

3. The 1910 is spec'd for more power, 90W x 7

4. The 1910 has full video scaling, of both analog and digital video, up to 1080p, and these video settings are adjustable by input. The 1610 has no scaling, and no adjustable settings; it simply automatically converts analog video to digital, and deinterlaces 480i > 480p when doing so. Everything else goes out at the same resolution it came in.

5. The 1910 has 2-zone/2-source capability (no multizone on 1610), and the 1910 (not 790, see above) has a "room to room" remote control jack for wired control from Zone 2.

4. usable S-video inputs (i.e. not just for the Denon ipod dock) on the rear, and front panel optical / s-video input

5. high-end ABT-2010 video processor with full color GUI, overlay over HDMI, HDMI>HDMI processing, and picture controls with brightness/contrast/hue/saturation and noise reduction settings which are memorized by input (allowing for independent source calibration even when running one HDMI cable to TV)

6. the 2310CI model (not the 890) will also include an RS-232 port, second smaller Zone 2 remote, and a 12V trigger output for custom integration ("CI") functionality.

I too am curious. The more I read the Denon threads, the more I am seriously considering moving up to the 2310/890. The ABT 2010 processor and the GUI would be really nice. Not to mention a better amp section and a 5th HDMI input. The question for me is at $850 MSRP for the 2310, is it worth the extra $300?

Can someone please confirm the height of the 1610 and 1910?
The specs on denon homepage have been changing during the past months. Currently the 1610 is specified at 5.8 inches and 1910 at 6.75 inches... (I'm height restricted)

I must say, even with batpig's site, the setup was the worst of any electronics product I've ever owned.

The auto-setup was amazingly slick, though. I can't wait to get some surround speakers (running just stereo right now) and seeing what it does.

My bass is sounding a little undefined. Fixing this will be my first task.

I purchased the 1910 over the 1909 becuase I already have 2 HDMI devices and getting a Blu-Ray player soon. I wasn't going to buy something that'd be full within a year. That 4th HDMI will come in handy when my next HDMI device comes out. Lately they seem to be coming on everything from cellphones to toilets, so I really wanted that option.

I purchased the 1910 over the 1909 becuase I already have 2 HDMI devices and getting a Blu-Ray player soon. I wasn't going to buy something that'd be full within a year. That 4th HDMI will come in handy when my next HDMI device comes out. Lately they seem to be coming on everything from cellphones to toilets, so I really wanted that option.

That's why they make cheap HDMI switches. Let's hope you had better reasons to buy the 1910 than that.

That's why they make cheap HDMI switches. Let's hope you had better reasons to buy the 1910 than that.

That's a bold statement to make considering none of us really know how much better or worse the 1910 is compared to its predecessor. If there is a change, most people probably wouldn't even hear the difference, the average consumer at least. And who really wants a switcher when you can have the extra HDMI port you want on the receiver itself? It all really comes down to a matter of personal preference, really.

I am now in the market for a receiver and through all of my research I have settled on Denon AVR-1910 and the Onkyo TX-SR607. I am leaning toward the Denon, but I am wondering if it has automatic format switching. In case I have misrepresented what that is, I basically want the receiver to switch from stereo to a surround format (Dolby, DTS) automatically when the receiver receives a surround sound signal. I hate watching HDTV channels and have to switch to DTS or Dolby to find out if there is a surround signal for that particular show or movie. I would rather the receiver recognize that it is receiving a surround signal from a show or movie and switch accordingly from stereo. On my current Yamaha, I have it on 5-Channel sound in the absence of a surround signal. Does anyone know if the Denon has this feature? The Denon manual refers to “Auto Flag Detect Mode” and an “Auto Surround Mode,” are either of these what I am looking for? Thank you for the help

yes, what you are looking for is "Auto Surround Mode". If this is set to on, the Denon will memorize your preferences for surround mode decoding separately by input (in addition to various other settings).

So, for example, you can have it automatically default to PLII Music mode when receiving a 2-channel signal on the "CD" input, but have it go to PLII Cinema mode when receiving a 2-channel signal on the "TV" input.

Whenever it gets an actual 5.1 signal it will automatically default to "Dolby Digital" or "DTS".

Thanks Batpig, you have saved me a lot of time and energy. Having to do it manually on my old Yamaha is frustrating. I think I will go with the Denon. Plus Denon has Dynamic Volume to keep the volume level which is another little feature I really wanted. Constantly changing the volume for each channel and even commercials is frustrating too. It's time to upgrade.

As a current 605 owner, I'm not happy with Onkyo. Don't get me wrong, the sound quality is pretty nice for the price, but if you need something fixed via firmware, you need to send your freakin' unit away. They also have some quality control issues. You get a good one, you'll be happy, by from what I understand from people and have soon to find out for myself, Denon will be even better bang for the buck, while being more reliable as well.

Whenever it gets an actual 5.1 signal it will automatically default to "Dolby Digital" or "DTS".

Dingo76 -
Keep in mind that as was reported in the 1909 thread, some HD TV stations are sending a 2.0 signal over a DD 5.1 broadcast which comes across on the Denon as DD 5.1 yet only 2 channels are actually received. In that case you'd have to manually switch to a DSP mode (e.g. 5 CH Stereo) to get audio from all speakers.

I know some folks worry that it weighs 1.5 pounds less than the 1909, but there's plenty of power. I'm filling a 500 sq. foot space with vaulted ceilings and using what seems like 1/10th the power.

I want to say that instead of caring about power, you should be appreciative of Dyanamic EQ. When we have to turn things down at night, DEQ steps-in and keeps things sounding good (and dialog crystal-clear) even at near-silent levels.

I'm very happy I picked an Audyssey unit over a generic (from Yamaha or Pioneer).

At the end of the day, a receiver is a just an amp with extra connections and room correction.