Etymology

Fiji's main island is known as Viti Levu and it is from this that the name "Fiji" is derived, though the common English pronunciation is based on that of their island neighbors in Tonga. Its emergence was best described as follows:

Fijians first impressed themselves on European consciousness through the writings of the members of the expeditions of Cook who met them in Tonga. They were described as formidable warriors and ferocious cannibals, builders of the finest vessels in the Pacific, but not great sailors. They inspired awe amongst the Tongans, and all their Manufactures, especially bark cloth and clubs, were highly esteemed and much in demand. They called their home Viti, but the Tongans called it Fisi, and it was by this foreign pronunciation, Fiji, first promulgated by Captain James Cook, that these islands are now known.[5]

History

Pottery excavated from Fijian towns shows that Fiji was settled before or around 3500–1000 BC, although the question of Pacific migration still lingers. It is believed that the Lapita people or the ancestors of the Polynesians settled the islands first but not much is known of what became of them after the Melanesians arrived; they may have had some influence on the new culture, and archaeological evidence shows that they would have then moved on to Tonga, Samoa and Hawai'i.

The first settlements in Fiji were started by voyaging traders and settlers from the west about 3500 years ago. Lapita pottery shards have been found at numerous excavations around the country. Aspects of Fijian culture are similar to Melanesian culture to the western Pacific but have stronger connection to the older Polynesian cultures such as those of Samoa and Tonga. Trade between these three nations long before European contact is quite obvious with Canoes made from native Fijian trees found in Tonga and Tongan words being part of the language of the Lau group of islands. Pots made in Fiji have been found in Samoa and even the Marquesas Islands. Across 1000 kilometres from east to west, Fiji has been a nation of many languages. Fiji's history was one of settlement but also of mobility. Over the centuries, a unique Fijian culture developed. Constant warfare and cannibalism between warring tribes was quite rampant and very much part of everyday life.[6] During the 19th century, Ratu Udre Udre is said to have consumed 872 people and to have made a pile of stones to record his achievement.[7] According to Deryck Scarr ("A Short History of Fiji", 1984, page 3), "Ceremonial occasions saw freshly-killed corpses piled up for eating. 'Eat me!' was a proper ritual greeting from a commoner to a chief." Scarr also reported that the posts that supported the chief's house or the priest's temple would have sacrificed bodies buried underneath them, with the rationale that the spirit of the ritually sacrificed person would invoke the gods to help support the structure, and "men were sacrificed whenever posts had to be renewed (Scarr, page 3). Also, when a new boat, or drua, was launched, if it was not hauled over men as rollers, crushing them to death, "it would not be expected to float long" (Scarr, page 19"). Fijians today regard those times as "na gauna ni tevoro" (time of the devil). The ferocity of the cannibal lifestyle deterred European sailors from going near Fijian waters, giving Fiji the name Cannibal Isles, in turn Fiji was unknown to the rest of the outside world.[8]

The Dutch explorer Abel Tasman visited Fiji in 1643 while looking for the Great Southern Continent.[9] Europeans settled on the islands permanently beginning in the nineteenth century.[10] The first European settlers to Fiji were Beachcombers, missionaries, whalers and those engaged in the then booming sandalwood and bêche-de-mer trade.

Ratu Seru Epenisa Cakobau was a Fijian chief and warlord from the island of Bau, off the eastern coast of Viti Levu, who united part of Fiji's warring tribes under his leadership. He then styled himself as King of Fiji or Tui Viti and then to Vunivalu or Protector after the Cession of Fiji to Great Britain. The British subjugated the islands as a colony in 1874, and the British brought over Indian contract labourers to work on the sugar plantations as the then Governor and also the first governor of Fiji, Arthur Charles Hamilton-Gordon, adopted a policy disallowing the use of native labour and no interference in their culture and way of life. In 1875-76, measles epidemic killed over 40,000 Fijians,[11] about one-third of the Fijian population.[12] The population in 1942 was approximately 210,000 of whom 94,000 were Indians, 102,000 native Fijians, 2,000 Chinese and 5,000 Europeans.[13]

The British granted Fiji independence in 1970. Democratic rule was interrupted by two military coups in 1987 because the government was perceived as dominated by the Indo-Fijian (Indian) community. The second 1987 coup saw the British monarchy and the Governor General replaced by a non-executive President, and the country changed the long form of its name from Dominion of Fiji to Republic of Fiji (and to Republic of the Fiji Islands in 1997). The coups and accompanying civil unrest contributed to heavy Indian emigration; the population loss resulted in economic difficulties but ensured that Melanesians became the majority.[14]

In 1990, the new Constitution institutionalised the ethnic Fijian domination of the political system. The Group Against Racial Discrimination (GARD) was formed to oppose the unilaterally imposed constitution and to restore the 1970 constitution. Sitiveni Rabuka, the Lieutenant Colonel who carried out the 1987 coup became Prime Minister in 1992, following elections held under the new constitution. Three years later, Rabuka established the Constitutional Review Commission, which in 1997 led to a new Constitution, which was supported by most leaders of the indigenous Fijian and Indo-Fijian communities. Fiji is re-admitted to the Commonwealth of Nations.

The new millennium brought along another coup, instigated by George Speight, that effectively toppled the government of Mahendra Chaudhry, who became Prime Minister following the 1997 constitution. Commodore Frank Bainimarama assumed executive power after the resignation, possibly forced, of President Mara. Fiji was rocked by two mutinies at Suva's Queen Elizabeth Barracks, later in 2000 when rebel soldiers went on the rampage. The High Court ordered the reinstatement of the constitution, and in September 2001, a general election was held to restore democracy, which was won by interim Prime Minister Laisenia Qarase's Soqosoqo Duavata ni Lewenivanua party.[citation needed]

In 2005, amid much controversy, the Qarase government proposed a Reconciliation and Unity Commission, with power to recommend compensation for victims of the 2000 coup, and amnesty for its perpetrators. However, the military strongly opposed this bill, especially the army's commander, Frank Bainimarama. He agreed with detractors who said that it was a sham to grant amnesty to supporters of the present government who played roles in the coup. His attack on the legislation, which continued unremittingly throughout May and into June and July, further strained his already tense relationship with the government. In late November 2006 and early December 2006, Bainimarama was instrumental in the 2006 Fijian coup d'état. Bainimarama handed down a list of demands to Qarase after a bill was put forward to parliament, part of which would have offered pardons to participants in the 2000 coup attempt. He gave Qarase an ultimatum date of 4 December to accede to these demands or to resign from his post. Qarase adamantly refused to either concede or resign and on 5 December President, Ratu Josefa Iloilo, was said to have signed a legal order dissolving Parliament after meeting with Bainimarama.

In April 2009, the Fiji Court of Appeal ruled that the 2006 coup had been illegal. This began the 2009 Fijian constitutional crisis. President Iloilo abrogated the constitution, removed all office holders under the Constitution including all judges and the Governor of the Central Bank. He then reappointed Bainimarama as Prime Minister under his "New Order" and imposed a "Public Emergency Regulation" limiting internal travel and allowing press censorship.

For a country of its size, Fiji has large armed forces, and has been a major contributor to UN peacekeeping missions in various parts of the world. In addition, a significant number of former military personnel have served in the lucrative security sector in Iraq following the 2003 US-led invasion.[citation needed]

2006 Military takeover

Citing corruption in the government, Commodore Josaia Voreqe (Frank) Bainimarama, Commander of the Republic of Fiji Military Forces, staged a military takeover on the 5th of December 2006 against the Prime Minister that he himself had installed after the 2000 coup. There had been two military coups in 1987 and one in 2000. The commodore took over the powers of the presidency and dissolved the parliament, paving the way for the military to continue the take over. The coup was the culmination of weeks of speculation following conflict between the elected Prime Minister, Laisenia Qarase, and Commodore Bainimarama. Bainimarama had repeatedly issued demands and deadlines to the Prime Minister. At particular issue was previously pending legislation to pardon those involved in the 2000 coup. Bainimarama named Jona Senilagakali caretaker Prime Minister. The next week Bainimarama said he would ask the Great Council of Chiefs to restore executive powers to President, Ratu Josefa Iloilo.[15]

On 4 January 2007, the military announced that it was restoring executive power to President Iloilo,[16] who made a broadcast endorsing the actions of the military.[17] The next day, Iloilo named Bainimarama as the interim Prime Minister,[18] indicating that the Military was still effectively in control.

In the wake of the take over, reports have emerged of intimidation of some of those critical of the interim regime. It is alleged that two individuals have died in military custody since December 2006. These deaths have been investigated and suspects charged but not yet brought to court.

On 9 April 2009 the Court of Appeal overturned the High Court decision that Bainimarama's take-over of Qarase's government was legal, and declared the Interim Government illegal. Bainimarama agreed to step down as Interim PM immediately, along with his government, and President Iloilo was to appoint "a distinguished person independent of the parties to this litigation as caretaker Prime Minister, ..... to direct the issuance of writs for an election ..."

On 10 April 2009 President Iloilo suspended the Constitution of Fiji, dismissed the Court of Appeal and, in his own words, "appoint[ed] [him]self as the Head of the State of Fiji under a new legal order".[19] As President, Iloilo had been Head of State prior to his abrogation of the Constitution, but that position had been determined by the Constitution itself. The "new legal order" did not depend on the Constitution, thus requiring a "reappointment" of the Head of State. "You will agree with me that this is the best way forward for our beloved Fiji", he said. Bainimarama was re-appointed as Interim Prime Minister; he, in turn, re-instated his previous Cabinet.

On 13 July 2009, Fiji became the first nation ever to be expelled from the Pacific Islands Forum, for its failure to hold democratic elections by that date.[20]

On 1 September 2009, Fiji became only the second country to be suspended from the Commonwealth of Nations. The action was taken because Commodore Frank Bainimarama refused to hold elections by 2010, elections that the Commonwealth of Nations had demanded after the 2006 coup. He states a need for more time to end a voting system he claims favours ethnic Fijians. Critics claim that he has suspended the constitution and was responsible for human rights violations by arresting and detaining opponents.[21][22]

Demographics

Ethnic groups

The population of Fiji is mostly made up of native Fijians, who are Melanesians (54.3%), although a few also have Polynesian ancestry, and Indo-Fijians (38.1%), descendants of Indian contract labourers brought to the islands by the British in the nineteenth century. Most of these Indo-Fijians are or are descendants of Bhojpuri-speaking Biharis. The percentage of the population of Indian descent has declined significantly over the last two decades due to migration for various reasons.[23] The Fiji coup of 2000 has provoked a violent backlash against the Indo-Fijians.[24][25] There is also a small but significant group of descendants of indentured laborers from Solomon Islands.

About 1.2% are Rotuman — natives of Rotuma Island, whose culture has more in common with countries such as Tonga or Samoa than with the rest of Fiji. There are also small, but economically significant, groups of Europeans, Chinese, and other Pacific island minorities. The total membership of other ethnic groups of Pacific Islanders is about 7300. Tongans, who as traders and warriors have lived in Fiji for hundreds of years, form the largest part of this community. In the old days there was active commerce between Tonga and Fiji, and later in the history of this relationship the Fijians in the Lau Islands became vassals to the King of Tonga. One particular reason Tongans and Samoans came to Fiji was to build drua (large double-hulled canoes) which they couldn’t build on their own islands because of the lack of proper timber.[citation needed]

Relationships between ethnic Fijians and Indo-Fijians at a political level have often been strained, and the tension between the two communities has dominated politics in the islands for the past generation. The level of tension varies between different regions of the country.[26]

Demonym

Within Fiji, the term Fijian refers solely to indigenous Fijians: it denotes an ethnicity, not a nationality. Constitutionally, citizens of Fiji are referred to as "Fiji Islanders" though the term Fiji Nationals is used for official purposes. In August 2008, shortly before the proposed People's Charter for Change, Peace and Progress was due to be released to the public, it was announced that it recommended a change in the name of Fiji's citizens. If the proposal were adopted, all citizens of Fiji, whatever their ethnicity, would be called "Fijians". The proposal would change the English name of indigenous Fijians from "Fijians" to itaukei, the Fijian word for indigenous Fijians.[27]

Deposed Prime Minister Laisenia Qarase reacted by stating that the name "Fijian" belonged exclusively to indigenous Fijians, and that he would oppose any change in legislation enabling non-indigenous Fijians to use it.[28] The Methodist Church, to which a large majority of indigenous Fijians belong, also reacted strongly to the proposal, stating that allowing any Fiji citizen to call themselves "Fijian" would be "daylight robbery" inflicted on the indigenous population.[29]

"I know we all have our different ethnicities, our different cultures and we should, we must, celebrate our diversity and richness. However, at the same time we are all Fijians. We are all equal citizens. We must all be loyal to Fiji; we must be patriotic; we must put Fiji first."[30]

Hindus belong mostly to the Sanatan sect (74.3% of all Hindus) or else are unspecified (22%). The small Arya Samaj sect claims the membership of some 3.7% of all Hindus in Fiji. Muslims are mostly Sunni (59.7%) and Shia (36.7%), with an Ahmadiyya minority (3.6%) regarded as heretical by more orthodox Muslims. The Sikh religion comprises 0.9% of the Indo-Fijian population, or 0.4% of the national population in Fiji. Their ancestors came from the Punjab region of India. The Bahá'í Faith has over 21 Local Spiritual Assemblies throughout Fiji and Baha'is live in more than 80 localities.[31] The first Baha'i in the islands was a New Zealander who arrived in 1924.[31] There is also a small Jewish population. Every year the Israeli Embassy organises a Passover celebration with approximately 100 people attending.[citation needed]

Fiji was also divided into 3 Confederacies or Governments during the reign of Cakobau, though these are not considered political divisions, they are still considered important in the social divisions of the indigenous Fijians:

Geography

Fiji covers a total area of some 194,000 square kilometres (75,000 sq mi) of which around 10% is land.

Fiji is the hub of the South West Pacific, midway between Vanuatu and the Kingdom of Tonga. The archipelago is located between 176° 53′ east and 178° 12′ west. The 180° meridian runs through Taveuni but the International Dateline is bent to give uniform time to all of the Fiji group. With the exception of Rotuma, the Fiji group lies between 15° 42′ and 20° 02′ south. Rotuma is located 400 kilometres north of the group, 670 km from Suva, 12° 30′ south of the equator.

Fiji consists of 322 islands (of which 106 are inhabited) and 522 smaller islets. The two most important islands are Viti Levu and Vanua Levu. The islands are mountainous, with peaks up to 1,300 metres (4,250 ft), and covered with thick tropical forests. Viti Levu hosts the capital city of Suva, and is home to nearly three quarters of the population. Other important towns include Nadi (the location of the international airport), and the second city -Lautoka (the location of a large sugar mill and a seaport). The main towns on Vanua Levu are Labasa and Savusavu. Other islands and island groups include Taveuni and Kadavu (the third and fourth largest islands respectively), the Mamanuca Group (just outside Nadi) and Yasawa Group, which are popular tourist destinations, the Lomaiviti Group, outside of Suva, and the remote Lau Group. Rotuma, some 500 kilometres (310 mi) north of the archipelago, has a special administrative status in Fiji. Fiji's nearest neighbour is Tonga. The climate in Fiji is tropical and warm most of the year round.

Economy

Fiji, endowed with forest, mineral, and fish resources, is one of the more developed of the Pacific island economies, though still with a large subsistence sector. Natural resources include timber, fish, gold, copper, offshore oil potential, hydropower. Fiji experienced a period of rapid growth in the 1960s and 1970s but stagnated in the 1980s. The coup of 1987 caused further contraction. Economic liberalization in the years following the coup created a boom in the garment industry and a steady growth rate despite growing uncertainty of land tenure in the sugar industry. The expiration of leases for sugar cane farmers (along with reduced farm and factory efficiency) has led to a decline in sugar production despite a subsidized price. Subsidies for sugar have been provided by the EU and Fiji has been the second largest beneficiary after Mauritius.

Urbanization and expansion in the service sector have contributed to recent GDP growth. Sugar exports and a rapidly growing tourist industry — with 430,800 tourists in 2003[32] and increasing in the subsequent years — are the major sources of foreign exchange. Fiji is highly dependent on tourism for revenue. Sugar processing makes up one-third of industrial activity. Long-term problems include low investment and uncertain property rights. The political turmoil in Fiji has had a severe impact on the economy, which shrank by 2.8% in 2000 and grew by only 1% in 2001. The tourism sector recovered quickly, however, with visitor arrivals reaching pre-coup levels again during 2002, which has since resulted in a modest economic recovery. This recovery continued into 2003 and 2004 but grew by 1.7% in 2005 and grew by 2.0% in 2006. Although inflation is low, the policy indicator rate of the Reserve Bank of Fiji was raised by 1% to 3.25% in February 2006 due to fears of excessive consumption financed by debt. Lower interest rates have so far not produced greater investment for exports. However, there has been a housing boom from declining commercial mortgage rates. The tallest building in Fiji is the fourteen-storey Reserve Bank of Fiji Building in Suva, which was inaugurated in 1984. The Suva Central Commercial Centre, which opened in November 2005, was planned to outrank the Reserve Bank building at seventeen stories, but last-minute design changes made sure that the Reserve Bank building remains the tallest.

The indigenous culture is very much active and living, and is a part of everyday life for the majority of the population. However, it has evolved with the introduction of old cultures like the Indian and Chinese ones, as well as a large influence from Europe, and from various Pacific neighbours of Fiji, mainly the Tongan and Samoan. The culture of Fiji has created a unique communal and national identity.[citation needed]

Language

Fijian is an Austronesian language of the Malayo-Polynesian family spoken in Fiji. It has 350 000 first-language speakers, which is less than half the population of Fiji, but another 200,000 speak it as a second language. The 1997 Constitution established Fijian as an official language of Fiji, along with English and Hindustani, and there is discussion about establishing it as the "national language", though English and Hindustani would remain official. Fijian is a VOS language.

The Fiji Islands developed many languages, some similar and some very different. Missionaries in the 1840s chose the language of one island off the southeast of the main island of Viti Levu, to be the official language of Fiji. This island, Bau, was home to Cakobau, the chief that eventually became the self forged "King" of Fiji. Missionaries were interested in documenting a language and in standardizing all of Fiji on one official language to make their job of translating and teaching in Fiji a bit easier. Standard Fijian is based on the language of Bau, which is an East Fijian language. There are many other dialects that make up the West Fijian languages including dialects spoken in the Nadroga/Navosa and those of the western island groups and provinces.

References

Wright, Ronald (1986). On Fiji Islands. Original from the University of Michigan, Digitized 5 December 2006. ISBN 067080634X. Traces the colonization of the Fiji Islands, explains how the Fijians have managed to keep their language and culture intact, and describes modern Fiji society.

Derrick, Ronald Albert (1951). The Fiji Islands: A Geographical Handbook. Govt. Print. Dept Fiji, 334 pages, Original from the University of Michigan, Digitized 11 July 2006. Details on Fiji its history and Geography.

Lal, Brij V. (1992). Broken Waves: A History of the Fiji Islands in the Twentieth Century. University of Hawaii Press. ISBN 0824814185. Details of Fiji's History, Geography, Economy.

Back to the Chessboard: The Coup and the Re-Emergence of Pre-colonial Rivalries in Fiji. In: Kolig/Mückler (eds.) (2002). Politics of Indigeneity in the South Pacific. LIT Verlag, Hamburg. pp. 143–158. ISBN 3825859150.

Fiji (sometimes called the Fiji
Islands), [1] is a Melanesian country in
the South Pacific Ocean. It
lies about two-thirds of the way from Hawaii to New Zealand and consists of an archipelago
that includes 332 islands, a handful of which make up most of the
land area, and approximately 110 of which are inhabited.

Fiji straddles the 180 degree longitude line (which crosses land
on a remote tip of Vanua Levu and again near the center of
Taveuni), so the international date line jogs east, placing Fiji
all in one time zone and, "ahead" of most of the rest of the
world.

Understand

Fiji is the product of volcanic mountains and warm tropical
waters. Its majestic and ever-varied coral reefs today draw
tourists from around the world, but were the nightmare of European
mariners until well into the 19th century. As a result, Fijians
have retained their land and often much of the noncommercial,
sharing attitude of people who live in vast extended families with
direct access to natural resources. When it came, European
involvement and cession to Britain was marked by the conversion to
Christianity, the cessation of brutal tribal warfare and
cannibalism, and the immigration of a large number of indentured
Indian laborers, who now represent nearly half of the population,
as well as smaller numbers of Europeans and Asians. Today, Fiji is
a land of tropical rainforests, coconut plantations, fine beaches,
fire-cleared hills. For the casual tourist it is blessedly free of
evils such as malaria, landmines, or terrorism that attend many
similarly lovely places in the world.

Internal political events in the recent past resulted in a
reduction in tourism. The Fiji tourism industry has responded by
lowering prices and increasing promotion of the main resort areas
that are far removed from the politics in and around the capital,
Suva.

Climate

Tropical marine; only slight seasonal temperature variation.
Tropical cyclonic storms (The South Pacific version of
Hurricanes) can occur from November to April. Temperature
sensitive visitors may wish to visit during the Southern Hemisphere
winter.

The landscape of Yasawa, one of the smaller Fijian islands

Mostly mountains of volcanic origin

In most of the interior of the main islands there are some roads
and always trails, and an amazing number of remote villages. Buses
and open or canvas topped "carriers" traverse the mountains of
Vanua Levu several times a day and the interior mountains of Viti
Levu many times weekly (The Tacirua Transport "hydromaster" bus
which leaves from Nausori in the morning and runs past the
hydroelectric resevoir and mount Tomanivi to arrive the same day in
Vatoukola and Tavua is the best and the scenery is truly
spectacular in good weather!)

History

Fiji became independent in 1970, after nearly a century as a
British colony. Democratic rule was interrupted by two military
coups in 1987, caused by concern over a government perceived as
dominated by the Indian community (descendants of contract laborers
brought to the islands by the British in the 19th century). The
coups and a 1990 constitution that cemented native Melanesian
control of Fiji, led to heavy Indian emigration; the population
loss resulted in economic difficulties, but ensured that
Melanesians became the majority. A new constitution enacted in 1997
was more equitable. Free and peaceful elections in 1999 resulted in
a government led by an Indo-Fijian, but a civilian-led coup in May
2000 ushered in a prolonged period of political turmoil.
Parliamentary elections held in August 2001 provided Fiji with a
democratically elected government led by Prime Minister Laisenia
Qarase. There was a further military coup in 2006, led by Commodore
Josaia Voreqe (Frank) Bainimarama.

Get in

By plane

Nadi International Airport is Fiji's main international airport.
Suva airport also has some
international flights. Air New Zealand, and Air Pacific (Fiji
majority owned) fly to Fiji directly from Los Angeles International
Airport (LAX) in the USA, and from
Incheon International Airport in South Korea, as well as many other
locations. Korean Air has three flights weekly between Nadi and Seoul.

Exercise caution when making bookings with the travel agents at
the airport. Fiji tourism is laden with 15-20% 'deposits'
(commissions) that encourage agents to book with the resorts that
provide the best commission, rather than the best holiday
experience.

By boat

You can enter Fiji by boat from Australia through the Astrala shore
connection.

Get around

Fiji has a variety of public transport options, including buses,
"share taxis", and private taxis. Rates are very cheap: F$1-2 from
Colo-i-Suva to Suva bus station by bus, F$17 from Nadi bus station
to Suva by share-taxi (share-taxi's are usually white mini-vans
that congregate together and set-off when they reach their capacity
of 6-8), or approximately F$80 from Suva airport to Sigatoka by
private taxi. On the main road circling Viti Levu buses run every
half hour and taxis are a substantial proportion of traffic, while
on western Taveuni buses make only a few runs per day and very
little traffic is present.

The current going rate from resorts on Nadi beach to Nadi
downtown is $6 per passenger, and $10 to the airport -- you should
be able negotiate this price reasonably easily.

While there is rarely much traffic present, most vehicles run on
diesel and pollution on major roadways can be severe. A national
speed limit of 80 km/h is usually observed; village speed limits
are all but entirely ignored, but drivers slow down for several
speed humps distributed within each village. Seat belts are advised
on taxis but are rarely evident and apparently never used.

Road travel tends to be more dangerous than many people are used
to, and many embassies advise their citizens to avoid pretty much
any form of road travel. Pot holes, washouts and dilapidated
bridges are commonplace. Buses are the best, unless you are truly
comfortable and capable of renting and driving a car on your own -
most people are not even if they think they are. Avoid travel at
night, especially outside of urban areas. Another option is hop-on,
hop-off bus passes which allow you to tour Fiji at your own pace
for a fixed price. These are a more expensive way to travel but
feature inclusions like tours and activities. However, some like
Feejee Experience [2] are limited to
Viti Levu and trips to Beachcomber island and don't include the
more remote islands.

Inter-island

South Sea Cruises [3]
operates daily inter-island ferry transfers throughout Fiji's
Mamanuca Island resorts. Awesome Adventures Fiji [4] provides daily ferry
transfers out to the remote Yasawa Islands. Inter-island ferries
are reasonably priced and the larger ones (especially those large
enough to accommodate cars and trucks) have a good safety record,
though they may be overcrowded at the beginning and end of school
holiday periods.

Do not attempt to take a car to another island unless you own it
or have made clear special arrangements - most rental companies
forbid it and they do prosecute tourists who violate this clause in
the contract.

Bicycle

Bicycles are becoming more popular in Fiji in recent years for
locals and tourists alike. In many ways, Fiji is an ideal place for
a rugged bike tour. However, the motor vehicle traffic can be
intimidating on well-travelled roads, and there is a lack of
accommodation along secondary roads. Cycling is a great way to see
Fiji but make sure you carry all your own spares and supplies as
bike shops are scarce. It is a good idea to carry plenty of water,
a camelbak is great, as it is very hot and humid almost year
round.

The main Road around the largest island, Viti Levu, is sealed
except for a 40km section on the eastern side. A sturdy road,
touring or hybrid bike is suitable.

Note for cycling enthusiasts: If you are coming in Suva,
contact Dom Sansom velocityfijiATgmailDOTcom of the Velocity
Cycling Club to link up other cyclists. There are some very nice
cycling routes up the mountains behind Suva and Nadi. The sealed
roads are smooth and do not have much traffic. The route takes you
past waterfalls and you can arrange to drop in at Netani Kuila's
farm, at Batiki for a local breakfast.

Talk

Languages

English is an official language and is the language of
instruction in education, and is spoken by most in Nadi, Suva and
any other major tourist area. On a few of the less touristy
islands, English may be spoken with some difficulty. Fijian or
Hindustani (Hindi/Urdu) is spoken by most adults and
children, and learning even a few key phrases will help you gain
the respect of the locals.

Buy

Inflation in Fiji is relatively high - it has increased an
estimated 12%/year recently. Expect to pay prices similar to those
of Australia in tourist regions.

Eat

Locals eat in the cafes and small restaurants that are found in
every town. The food is wholesome, cheap, and highly variable in
quality. What you order from the menu is often better than what
comes out of the glass display case, except for places that sell a
lot of food quickly and keep putting it out fresh. Many curries
also taste better after sitting around for a few hours. Fish and
Chips are usually a safe bet, and are widely available. Most of
these local joints serve Chinese food of some sort along with
Indian and sometimes Fiji-style fish , lamb, or pork dishes. Near
the airport, a greater variety of food is found, including Japanese
and Korean.

Local delicacies to try include fresh tropical fruits (they can
be found at the farmer's market in any town when in season),
paulsami (baked taro leaves marinated in lemon juice and coconut
milk often with some meat or fish filling and a bit of onion or
garlic), kokoda (fish or other seafood marinated in lemon and
coconut milk), and anything cooked in a lovo or pit oven.
Vutu is a local variety of nut mainly grown on the island
of Beqa, but also available in Suva and other towns around January
and February. A great deal of food is cooked in coconut milk, take
note that everyone reacts different to increased fat levels in
their diet.

Drink

A very popular drink in Fiji is yaqona ("yang-go-na"),
also known as "kava " and sometimes referred to as "grog" by
locals. Kava is a peppery, earthy tasting drink made from the root
of the pepper plant (piper methysticum). Its effects include a
numbed tongue and lips (usually lasting only about 5-10 minutes)
and relaxed muscles. Kava is mildly intoxicating, especially when
consumed in large quantities or on a regular basis and one should
avoid taxi and other drivers who have recently partaken.

Kava drinking in Fiji became popular during the fall of
cannibalism, and originated as a way to resolve conflict and
facilitate peaceful negotiations between villages. It should not be
consumed alongside alcohol.

Sleep

Most Fiji travel agents will take a 'deposit' along with your
booking, which is a commission usually between 15-20%. Since this
is an up-front payment, it is often beneficial to only book one
night initially, and then you may be able to negotiate a lesser
rate for subsequent nights (if space is available).

Many smaller and simpler accommodations have "local rates" and
can give discounts that are simply huge if you can book a room in
person (or have a local do it for you) and give a legitimate local
address and phone number. In the Suva area, the Raffles Tradewinds
is nice and quiet and about a dollar by frequently running buses
from central down town. Sometimes upon arrival at the airport in
Nadi, you can stop at the Raffles Gateway across from the airport
entrance and book a room at the Tradewinds at a good local rate if
business is slow.

Turtle Island [6] is an island resort in
the Yasawa islands that is gaining notoriety for its celebrity
honeymooners (most recently Britney Spears).

Another exclusive private island resort is the Poseidon Resort
[7], which is the world
first and only underwater hotel, which also have exclusive beach
bungalows with each one having a private beach (as well as as
private golf course and an interesting cave system being available
to guest). Guest will also have access to a private submarine to
explore the reefs and aquatic life. Packages are two days in the
underwater resort and 5 days above the water in the private
bungalows. Guests are flown in via private plane.

Fijian Resort Shangri-La's
[8] is located at Yanuca island in Sigatoka.

Suva has become a desirable
destination for conventions, meetings and events. With so many
exciting off-site activities so close to the hotel, options for a
unique and rewarding event are endless.

Nadi is the hub of tourism for
the Fiji Islands. You can get all the resources you need to explore
your lodging options, hotels and resorts , activities and trips and
tours. Nadi is a thriving community with many things to explore and
experience. There is also a number of local activities and places
to see when you are in Nadi as well.

Lautoka is Fiji's second largest city. The real charm of this
dry western side of the island is the mountain ranges inland from
Nadi and Lautoka. Koroyanitu National Park offers hiker overnight
adventure through the semi-rainforest,waterfalls and small
villages. Tours to the Garden of the Sleeping Giant are also very
popular for the different ornamental orchids together with forest
walks through botanical wonders. While in Lautoka, you can stay at
the Tanoa Waterfront Hotel [9], just a
twenty-five minute drive from Nadi Airport.

Tanoa Rakiraki [10] is a colonial
township that captivates visitors with its old world charm and
serenity. The hotel is two minutes from town.It is the half way
point between Nadi and Suva, and presents a different Fiji, one
that many visitors never see.

If you'd care to sample outer island life, Moanas Guest House [11] on Vanua Balavu
in the remote Lau Group is worth considering. Vanua Balavu only
receives one Air Fiji flight a week from Suva. There's hiking,
snorkeling, caving, and fishing to keep you entertained.

Stay safe

Most crime takes place in Suva and Nadi away from the resort
areas. The best advice is to stick to hotel grounds after dark, and
to Use extreme caution in Suva, Nadi and other urbanised areas
after nightfall. Travelers have been victims of violent crime,
particularly in Suva. Travelers have reported the regularity of
petty robberies, muggings, and also home-invasions/rape, etc. You
will notice the predominance of bars on most peoples' homes.
Economic and ethnic strife has led to a low-level hum of violent
crime. Some resorts and hotels have more extensive security
measures than others which should be taken into account.

Muggings are often carried out by large groups of men so being
in a group won't necessarily be a deterrent. Police forces
sometimes have difficulties responding to crime, potentially for
reasons as mundane as being unable to pay for petrol.

Fijian culture encourages sharing and sometimes small things
like shoes will be "borrowed". Often by speaking with the village
chief it can be arranged to get things returned.

Also, be aware that homosexual sex may be a crime in Fiji. While
Fiji claims to welcome gay travelers, there has been a recent case
where a visitor to the country was initially jailed for 2 years for
paying a local for homosexual sex. He was later freed on
appeal.

Fiji is still run by a military government, following a coup in
December 2006. Although its effect has not been prominent in the
resort areas of Nadi, it has led to economic decline, and a
decrease in the rule of law. Journalists may be blacklisted for
political reasons. Those whose employment involves reporting
controversial political activities should take extra care to ensure
that their visas are in order before visiting Fiji.

Stay healthy

Fiji is relatively free of disease compared to most of the
tropics. Avoid mosquito-borne illnesses, such as dengue fever and
even elephantiasis by covering up thoroughly or using repellents
while outdoors at dawn or dusk. Local water is generally safe,
though filtering or boiling is advisable when unsure. Urban tap
water is treated and nearly always safe. When exceptions
occasionally arise, there are public warnings or radio and print
media warnings. Contaminated food is uncommon, though on occasion,
mature reef fish can contain mild neurotoxins they accumulate in
their bodies from freshwater algaes that wash into the ocean. The
effects of such "fish-poisoning" are usually intense for only a day
or two, but tingling lips and unusual sensitivities to hot and cold
can linger for a long time.

Drownings are common, and automobile and other motor vehicle
accidents (often involving animals or pedestrians) are very common.
Local emergency medical care is very good on the basics in urban
areas. Expect long waits in government-run clinics and hospitals.
Treatment for serious conditions often requires an evacuation to
New Zealand or Australia. Even the most basic medical care is
usually not available outside of urban areas.

Fiji, like most of the South Pacific, can have intense solar
radiation that can cause severe skin-burns in a short amount of
time. Be sure to use hats, sunglasses and liberal amounts of
high-SPF value sunblock on ALL exposed skin (including ears, noses
and tops-of-feet) when out in the sun. On top of that tropical
boils are a common inconvenience in Fiji, this can be avoided by
giving those sweaty sections of the body a soapy scrub more than
once a day.

Respect

Fiji, like many Pacific Island states, has a strong
Christian moral society; having been colonised and
converted to Christianity by missionaries during the 19th century.
Do not be surprised if shops and other businesses are closed on
Sunday. The Sabbath starts at 6PM the day before, and some
businesses celebrate the Sabbath on a Saturday instead of a Sunday.
Many Indians are Hindu or Muslim.

Also, dress modestly and appropriately. While Fiji is a tropical
country, beach-wear should be confined to the beach. Take your cues
from the locals as to what they consider appropriate dress for the
occasion. When visiting towns and villages, you should be sure to
cover your shoulders and wear shorts or sulus (sarongs)
that cover your knees (both genders). This is especially true for
visiting a church, although locals will often lend you a
sulu for a church visit.

A Fijian considers his head sacred.
Never touch a Fijian's head with your
hand or any object for any reason.

This article is an outline and needs more
content. It has a template, but there is not enough information
present. Please plunge forward and help it grow!

From LoveToKnow 1911

FIJI (Viti), a British colony consisting of an archipelago in the Pacific Ocean, the
most important in Polynesia, between 15° and 20° S., and on and
about the meridian of
180°. The islands number about 250, of which some 80 are inhabited.
The total land area is sq. m. (thus roughly equalling that of Wales), and the population is about
1 ,000. The principal island is Viti Levu, 98 m. in length (E. to
W.) and 67 in .extreme breadth, with an area of 4112 sq. m. Forty
miles N.E. lies Vanua Levu, measuring 117 m. by 30, with an area of
2432 sq. m. Close off the south-eastern shore of Vanua Levu is
Taviuni, 26 m. in length by so in breadth; Kandavu or Kadavu, 36 m.
long and very narrow, is 41 m. S. of Viti Levu, and the three other
main islands, lying east of Viti Levu in the Koro Sea, are Koro,
Ngau or Gau, and Ovalau. South-east from Vanua Levu a loop of islets extends nearly to 20°
S., enclosing the Koro Sea. North-west of Viti Levu lies another
chain, the Yasawa or western group; and, finally, the colony
includes the island of Rotumah, 300 m. N.W. by N. of Vanua Levu.

The formation of the larger islands is volcanic, their surface
rugged, their vegetation luxuriant, and their appearance very 1 The
notation n! denotes the product 1.2. 3.... n, and is
termed "t factorial n."Emery Walker sc.

is the chief stream of Vanua Levu. It breaches the mountains in
a fine valley; for this island consists practically of one long
range, whereas the main valleys and ranges separating them in Viti
Levu radiate for the most part from a common centre. With few
exceptions the islands are surrounded by barriers of coral, broken by openings opposite
the mouths of streams. Viti Levu is the most important island not
only from its size, but from its fertility, variety of surface, and
population, which is over one-third of that of the whole group. The
town of Suva lies on an excellent harbour at the south-east of the
island, and has been the capital of the colony since 1882,
containing the government buildings and other offices. Vanua Levu
is less fertile than Viti Levu; it has good anchorages along its
entire southern coast. Of the other islands, Taviuni, remarkable
for a lake (presumably a crater-lake) at the top of its lofty central
ridge, is fertile, but exceptionally devoid of harbours; whereas
the well-timbered island of Kandavu has an excellent one. On the
eastern shore of Ovalau, an island which contains in a small area a
remarkable series of gorge-like
valleys between commanding hills, is the town of Levuka, the
capital until 1882. It stands partly upon the narrow shore, and
partly climbs the rocky slope behind. The chief islands on the west
of the chain enclosing the Koro Sea are Koro, Ngau, Moala and
Totoya, all productive, affording good anchorage, elevated and
picturesque. The eastern, islands of the chain are smaller and more
numerous, Vanua Batevu (one of the Exploring Group) being a centre
of trade. Among others, Mago is
remarkable for a subterranean outlet of the waters of the fertile
valley in its midst.

The land is of recent geological formation, the principal ranges
being composed of igneous rock, and showing traces of much volcanic
disturbance. There are boiling springs in Vanua beautiful; their
hills rise often above 3000, and, in the case of a few summits,
above 4000 ft., and they contrast strongly with the low coral
formation of the smaller members of the group. There is not much
level country, except in the coral islets, and certain rich tracts
along the coasts of the two large islands, especially near the
mouths of the rivers. The large islands have a considerable extent
of undulating country, dry and open on their lee sides. Streams and rivers are abundant, the
latter very large in proportion to the size of the islands,
affording a waterway to the rich districts along their banks. These and the extensive mud
flats and deltas at their mouths are often flooded, by which their
fertility is increased, though at a heavy cost to the cultivator. The Rewa, debouching through a wide delta at the south-east of Viti
Levu, is navigable for small vessels for 40 m. There are also in
this island the Navua and Sigatoka (flowing S.), the Nandi (W.), and the Ba (N.W.). The
Dreketi, flowing W., 3 P °. o° nd s uu R u Pt.

OMothe p Matuku .Vatauua Levu and Ngau, and slight
shocks of earthquake
are occasionally felt. The tops of many of the mountains, from
Kandavu in the S. W., through Nairai and Koro, to the Ringgold
group in the N.E., have distinct craters, but their activity has
long ceased. The various decomposing volcanic rocks - tufas,
conglomerates and basalts - mingled with decayed vegetable matter, and
abundantly watered, form a very fertile soil. Most of the high
peaks on the larger islands are basaltic, and the rocks generally
are igneous, with occasional upheaved coral found sometimes over
1000 ft. above the sea; but certain sedimentary rocks observed on
Viti Levu seem to imply a nucleus of land of considerable age. Volcanic
activity in the neighbourhood is further shown by the quantities of
pumice-stone drifted on to the
south coasts of Kandavu and Viti Levu; malachite, antimony and graphite, gold in small quantities, and specular iron-sand occur.

Climate

The colony is beyond the limits of the perpetual S.E. trades,
while not within the range of the N.W. monsoons. From April to
November the winds are steady between S.E. and E.N.E., and the
climate is cool and dry, after which the weather becomes uncertain
and the winds often northerly, this being the wet warm season. In
February and March heavy gales are frequent, and hurricanes
sometimes occur, causing scarcity by destroying the crops. The
rainfall is much greater on the windward than on the lee sides of
the islands (about z io in. at Suva), but the mean temperature is
much the same, viz., about 80° F. In the hills the temperature
sometimes falls below 50 0. The climate, especially from November
to April, is somewhat enervating to the Englishman, but not
unhealthy. Fevers are hardly known. Dysentery, which is common, and the most
serious disease e in the islands, is said to have been unknown
before the advent of
Europeans.

Besides the dog and the pig, which (with the domestic fowl)
must have been introduced in early times, the only land mammals are
certain species of rats and bats. Insects are numerous, but the
species few. Bees have been introduced. The avifauna is not
remarkable. Birds of prey are few;
the parrot and pigeon tribes are better
represented. Fishes, of an Indo-Malay type, are numerous and
varied; Mollusca,
especially marine, and Crustaceae are also very numerous. These
three form an important element in the food supply.

The vegetation is mostly of a tropical Indo-Malayan character -
thick jungle with great trees
covered with creepers and epiphytes. The lee sides of the larger
islands, however, have grassy plains suitable for grazing, with
scattered trees, chiefly Pandanus, and ferns. The flora
has also some Australian and New Zealand affinities (resembling in this
respect the New
Caledonia and New
Hebrides groups), shown especially in these western districts
by the Pandanus, by certain acacias and others. At an
elevation of about z000 ft. the vegetation assumes a more
mountainous type. Among the many valuable timber trees are the vesi (Afzelia
bijuga); the dilo (Calophyllum Inophyllum), the oil
from its seeds being much used in the islands, as in India, in the treatment of rheumatism; the dakua
(Dammara Vitiensis), allied to the New Zealand kauri, and others. The dakua or Fiji pine, however, has become scarce.
Most of the fruit trees are also
valuable as timber. The native cloth (masi) is beaten out
from the bark of the paper mulberry cultivated for the purpose. Of the
palms the cocoanut is by far the most important. The yasi or sandal-wood was formerly a
valuable product, but is now rarely found. There are various useful
drugs, spices and perfumes; and many plants 'are cultivated for
their beauty, to which the natives are keenly alive. Among the
plants used as pot-herbs are several ferns, and two or three
Solanums, one of which, S. anthropophagorum, was one of
certain plants always cooked with human flesh, which was said to be
otherwise difficult of digestion. The use of the kava root, here called yanggona, from which the
well-known national beverage is made, is said to have been
introduced from Tonga. Of fruit
trees, besides the cocoanut, there may be mentioned the many
varieties of the bread-fruit, of bananas and plantains, of
sugar-cane and of lemon; the wi (Spondias dulcis), the
kavika (Eugenia malaccensis), the ivi or Tahitian chestnut (Inocarpus
edulis), the pine-apple and others introduced in modern
times. Edible roots are especially abundant. The chief staple of life is the yam, the names of several months in the
calendar having reference
to its cultivation and ripening. The natives use no grain or pulse, but make a kind of bread (mandrai) from this, the taro, and
other roots, as well as from the banana (which is the best), the bread-fruit, the
ivi, the kavika, the arrowroot, and in times of scarcity the mangrove. This bread is made
by burying the materials for months, till the mass is thoroughly
fermented and homogeneous, when it is dug up and cooked by baking or steaming. This simple
process, applicable to such a variety of substances, is a valuable
security against famine.

People

The Fijians are a people of Melanesian (Papuan) stock much
crossed with Polynesians (Tongans and Samoans). They occupy the
extreme east limits of Papuan territory and are usually classified
as Melanesians; but they are physically superior to the pure
examples of that race, combining their dark colour, harsh hirsute
skin, crisp hair, which is bleached with lime and worn in an elaborately trained mop, and muscular limbs, with the
handsome features and well proportioned bodies of the Polynesians.
They are tall and well built. The features are strongly marked, but
not unpleasant, the eyes deep set, the beard thick and bushy. The chiefs are fairer,
much better-looking, and of a less negroid type of face than the
people. This negroid type is especially marked on the west coasts,
and still more in the interior of Viti Levu. The Fijians have other
characteristics of both Pacific races, e.g. the quickintellect of the fairer, and the savagery and
suspicion of the dark. They wear a minimum of covering, but, unlike
the Melanesians, are strictly decent, while they are more moral
than the Polynesians. They are cleanly and particular about their
personal appearance, though, unlike other Melanesians, they care
little for ornament, and
only the women are tattooed. A partial circumcision is practised, which is
exceptional with the Melanesians, nor have these usually an
elaborate political and social system like that of Fiji. The status
of the women is also somewhat better, those of the upper class
having considerable freedom and influence. If less readily amenable
to civilizing influences than their neighbours to the eastward, the
Fijians show greater force of character and ingenuity. Possessing
the arts of both races they practise them with greater skill than
either. They understand the principle of division of labour and
production, and thus of commerce. They are skilful cultivators and
good boat-builders, the
carpenters, being an hereditary caste; there are also tribes of fishermen and
sailors; their mats, baskets, nets, cordage and other fabrics are
substantial and tasteful; their pottery, made, like many of the
above articles, by women, is far superior to any other in the South
Seas; but many native manufactures have been supplanted by European
goods.

The Fijians were formerly notorious for cannibalism, which may have had its origin
in religion, but long before the first contact with Europeans had
degenerated into gluttony. The Fijian's chief table luxury was
human flesh, euphemistically called by him "long pig," and to
satisfy his appetite he would sacrifice even friends and relatives.
The Fijians combined with this greediness a savage and merciless natures. Human sacrifices
were of daily occurrence. On a chief's death wives and slaves were
buried alive with him. When building a chief's house a slave was
buried alive in the hole dug for each foundation post. At the
launching of a war-canoe living
men were tied hand and foot between two plantain stems making a human ladder over which the vessel was
pushed down into the water. The people acquiesced in these brutal
customs, and willingly met their deaths. Affection and a firm belief in a future
state, in which the exact condition of the dying is continued, are
the Fijians' own explanations of the custom, once universal, of
killing sick or aged relatives. Yet in spite of this savagery the
Fijians have always been remarkable for their hospitality,
open-handedness and courtesy. They are a sensitive, proud, if
vindictive, and boastful people, with good conversational and
reasoning powers, much sense of humour, tact and perception of character. Their code of
social etiquette is
minute and elaborate, and the graduations of rank well marked.
These are (r) chiefs, greater and lesser; (2) priests; (3) Mata
ni Vanua (lit., eyes of the land), employes, messengers or
counsellors; (4) distinguished warriors of low birth; (5) common
people; (6) slaves.

The family is the unit of political society. The families are
grouped in townships or otherwise (qali) under the lesser
chiefs, who again owe allegiance to the supreme chief of the
matanitu or tribe. The chiefs are a real aristocracy, excelling
the people in physique, skill, intellect and acquirements of all
sorts; and the reverence felt for them, now gradually diminishing,
was very great, and had something of a religious character. All
that a man had belonged to his chief. On the other hand, the
chief's property practically belonged to his people, and they were
as ready to give as to take. In a time of famine, a chief would
declare the contents of the plantations to be common property. A
system of feudal service-tenures (lala) is the institution
on which their social and political fabric mainly depended. It
allowed the chief to call for the labour of any district, and to
employ it in planting, house or canoe-building,supplying food on
the occasion of another chief's visit, &c. This power was often
used with much discernment; thus an unpopular chief would redeem
his character by calling for some customary service and rewarding
it liberally, or a district would be called on to supply labour or
produce as a punishment. The privilege might, of course, be abused
by needy or unscrupulous chiefs, though they generally deferred
somewhat to public opinion; it has now, with similar customary
exactions of cloth, mats, salt,
pottery, &c. been reduced within definite limits. An allied
custom, solevu, enabled a district in want of any
particular article to call on its neighbours to supply it, giving
labour or something else in exchange. Although, then, the chief is
lord of the soil, the inferior chiefs and individual families have
equally distinct rights in it, subject to payment of certain dues;
and the idea of permanent alienation of land by purchase was never
perhaps clearly realized. Another curious custom was that of
vasu (lit. nephew). The son of a chief by a woman of rank
had almost unlimited rights over the property of his mother's
family, or of her people. In time of war the chief claimed absolute
control over life and property. Warfare was carried on with many
courteous formalities, and considerable skill was shown in the
fortifications. There were well-defined degrees of dependence among
the different tribes or districts: the first of these,
bati, is an alliance between two nearly equal tribes, but
implying a sort of inferiority on one side, acknowledged by
military service; the second, qali, implies greater
subjection, and payment of tribute. Thus A, being bati to B, might hold C
in qali, in which case C was also reckoned subject to B, or might
be protected by B for political purposes.

The former religion of the Fijians was a sort of
ancestorworship, had much in common with the creeds of Polynesia, and included a belief in a
future existence. There were two classes of gods - the first
immortal, of whom Ndengei is the greatest, said to exist eternally
in the form of a serpent,
but troubling himself little with human or other affairs, and the
others had usually only a local recognition. The second rank (who,
though far above mortals, are subject to their passions, and even
to death) comprised the spirits of chiefs, heroes and other ancestors.
The gods entered and spoke through their priests, who thus
pronounced on the issue of every enterprise, but they were not
represented by idols; certain groves and trees were held sacred,
and stones which suggest phallic associations. The priesthood
usually was hereditary, and their influence great, and they had
generally a good understanding with the chief. The institution of
Taboo existed in full force. The
mbure or temple was also the council chamber and place of
assemblage for various purposes.

The weapons of the Fijians are spears, slings, throwing clubs
and bows and arrows. Their houses, of which the framework is timber
and the rest lattice and thatch, are ingeniously constructed, with great
taste in ornamentation, and are well furnished with mats, mosquito-curtains, baskets,
fans, nets and cooking and other utensils. Their canoes, sometimes
more than 1 00 ft. long, are well built. Ever excellent
agriculturists, their implements were formerly digging sticks and
hoes of turtlebone or flat oyster-shells. In irrigation they showed skill, draining their
fields with built watercourses and bamboo pipes. Tobacco, maize, sweet potatoes, yams, kava, taro, beans
and pumpkins, are the principal crops.

Fijians are fond of amusements. They have various games, and
dancing, story-telling and songs are especially popular. Their poetry has well-defined metres,
and a sort of rhyme. Their music is rude, and is said to be
always in the major key. They are
clever cooks, and for their feasts preparations are sometimes
made months in advance, and enormous waste results from them. Mourning is expressed by fasting, by shaving the head
and face, or by cutting off the little finger. This last is sometimes done at the death
of a rich man in the hope that his family will reward the
compliment; sometimes it is done vicariously, as when one chief
cuts off the little finger of his dependent in regret or in atonement for the death of
another.

A steady, if not a very rapid, decrease in the native population
set in after 1875. A terrible epidemic of measles in that year swept away 40,000, or
about one-third of the Fijians. Subsequent epidemics have not been
attended by anything like this mortality, but there has, however,
been a steady decrease, principally among young children, owing to
whooping-cough, tuberculosis and croup. Every Fijian child seems to contract yaws at some time in its life, a
mistaken notion existing on the part of the parents that it
strengthens the child's physique. Elephantiasis, influenza, rheumatism, and a skin disease,
thoko, also occur. One per cent of the natives are lepers.
A commission appointed in 1891 to inquire into the causes of the
native decrease collected much interesting anthropological
information regarding native customs, and provincial inspectors and
medical officers were specially appointed to compel the natives to
carry out the sanitary reforms recommended by the commission. A
considerable sum was also spent in laying on good water to the
native villages. The Fijians show no disposition to intermarry with
the Indian coolies. The European half-castes are not prolific
inter se, and they are subject to a scrofulous taint. The
most robust cross in the islands is the offspring of the African
negro and the Fijian. Miscegenation with the Micronesians, the
only race in the Pacific which is rapidly increasing, is regarded
as the most hopeful manner of preserving the native Fijian
population. There is a large Indian immigrant population.

Trade, Administration, &c. - The principal
industries are the cultivation of sugar and fruits and the
manufacture of sugar and copra,
and these three are the chief articles of export trade, which is
carried on almost entirely with Australia and New Zealand. The fruits chiefly
exported are bananas and pineapples. There are also exported maize,
vanilla and a variety of
fruits in small quantities; pearl and other shells and bechede-mer. There is
a manufacture of soap from coconut
oil; a fair quantity of tobacco is grown, and among other
industries may be included boat-building and saw-milling. Regular
steamship communications are maintained with Sydney, Auckland and Vancouver. Good bridle-tracks exist in all
the larger islands, and there are some macadamized roads,
principally in Viti Levu. There is an overland mail service by native runners. The export trade
is valued at nearly £600,000 annually, and the imports at £500,000.
The annual revenue of the colony is about £140,000 and the
expenditure about £125,000. The currency and weights
and measures are British. Besides the customs and stamp duties, some £18,000 of the
annual revenue is raised from native taxation. The seventeen provinces of the
colony (at the head of which is either a European or a roko
tui or native official) are assessed annually by the
legislative council for a fixed tax in kind. The tax on each
province is distributed among districts under officials called
bulis, and further among villages within these districts.
Any surplus of produce over the assessment is sold to contractors, and the
money received is returned to the natives.

Under a reconstruction made in 1904 there is an executive
council consisting of the governor and four official members. The
legislative council consists of the governor, ten official, six
elected and two native members. The native chiefs and provincial
representatives meet annually under the presidency of the governor, and their
recommendations are submitted for sanction to the legislative
council. Suva and Levuka have each a municipal government, and
there are native district and village councils. There is an armed
native constabulary; and a volunteer and cadet corps in Suva and Levuka.

The majority of the natives are Wesleyan Methodists. The Roman
Catholic missionaries have about 3000 adherents; the
Church of England is confined to the Europeans and
kanakas in the towns; the Indian coolies are divided
between Mahommedans and Hindus. There are public schools for
Europeans and half-castes in the towns, but there is no provision
for the education of the children of settlers in the out-districts.
By an ordinance of 1890
provision was made for the constitution of school boards, and the
principle was first applied in Suva and Levuka. The missions have established
schools in every native village, and most natives are able to read
and write their own language. The government has established a
native technical school for the teaching of useful handicrafts. The
natives show themselves very slow in adopting European habits in
food, clothing and house-building.

History

A few islands in the north-east of the group were first seen by
Abel
Tasman in 1643. The southernmost of the group, Turtle Island,
was discovered by Cook in 1773.
Lieutenant Bligh, approaching them in the launch of the "Bounty," 1789, had a hostile encounter with
natives. In 1827 Dumont d'Urville
in the "Astrolabe"
surveyed them much more accurately, but the first thorough survey
was that of the United States exploring
expedition in 1840. Up to this time, owing to the evil reputation
of the islanders, European intercourse was very limited. The
labours of the Wesleyan missionaries, however, must always have a
prominent place in any history of Fiji. They came from Tonga in
1835 and naturally settled first in the eastern islands, where the
Tongan element, already familiar to them, preponderated. They
perhaps identified themselves too closely with their Tongan
friends, whose dissolute, lawless, tyrannical conduct led to much
mischief; but it should
not be forgotten that their position was difficult, and it was
mainly through their efforts that many terrible heathen practices were stamped out.

About 1804 some escaped convicts from Australia and runaway
sailors established themselves around the east part of Viti Levu,
and by lending their services to the neighbouring chiefs probably
led to their preponderance over the rest of the group. Na Ulivau,
chief of the small island of Mbau, established before his death in
1829 a sort of supremacy, which was extended by his brother Tanoa,
and by Tanoa's son Thakombau, a ruler of considerable capacity. In
his time, however, difficulties thickened. The Tongans, who had
long frequented Fiji (especially for canoe-building, their own
islands being deficient in timber), now came in larger numbers, led
by an able and ambitious chief, Maafu, who, by adroitly taking part
in Fijian quarrels, made himself chief in the Windward group,
threatening Thakombau's supremacy. He was harassed, too, by an
arbitrary demand for £9000 from the American government, for
alleged injuries to their consul. Several chiefs who disputed his
authority were crushed by the aid of King George of Tonga, who (1855) had opportunely
arrived on a visit; but he afterwards, taking some offence,
demanded £12,000 for his services. At last Thakombau, disappointed
in the hope that his acceptance of Christianity (1854) would improve his
position, offered the sovereignty to Great Britain (1859) with the fee simple of 100,000 acres, on condition of her
paying the American claims. Colonel Smythe, R.A., was sent out to
report on the question, and decided against annexation, but advised that the British
consul should be invested with full magisterial powers over his
countrymen, a step which would have averted much subsequent
difficulty.

Meanwhile Dr B. Seemann's favourable report on the capabilities
of the islands, followed by a time of depression in Australia and
New Zealand, led to a rapid increase of settlers - from 200 in 1860
to 1800 in 1869. This produced fresh complications, and an
increasing desire among the respectable settlers for a competent
civil and criminal jurisdiction. Attempts were made at
self-government, and the sovereignty was again offered,
conditionally, to England,
and to the United States. Finally, in 1871, a "constitutional
government" was formed by certain Englishmen under King Thakombau;
but this, after incurring heavy debt, and promoting the welfare of
neither whites nor natives, came after three years to a deadlock,
and the British government felt obliged, in the interest of all
parties, to accept the unconditional cession now offered (1874). It
had besides long been thought desirable to possess a station on the
route between Australia and Panama; it was also felt that the Polynesian
labour traffic, the abuses in which had caused much indignation,
could only be effectually regulated from a point contiguous to the
recruiting field, and the locality where that labour was
extensively employed. To this end the governor of Fiji was also
created "high commissioner for the western Pacific." Rotumah (q.v.)
was annexed in 1881.

At the time of the British annexation the islands were suffering
from commercial depression, following a fall in the price of cotton after the American
Civil War. Coffee, tea, cinchona and sugar were tried in turn, with
limited success. The coffee was attacked by the leaf disease; the tea could not compete with that
grown by the cheap labour of the East; the sugar machinery was too
antiquated to withstand the fall in prices consequent on the
European sugar bounties. In 1878 the first coolies were imported
from India and the cultivation of sugar began to pass into the
hands of large companies working with modern machinery. With the
introduction of coolies the Fijians began to fall behind in the
development of their country. Many of the coolies chose to remain
in the colony after the termination of their indentures, and began
to displace the European country traders. With a regular and
plentiful supply of Indian coolies, the recruiting of kanaka labourers practically
ceased. The settlement of .European land claims, and the measures
taken for the protection of native institutions, caused lively
dissatisfaction among the colonists, who laid the blame of the
commercial depression at the door
of the government; but with returning prosperity this feeling began
to disappear. In 1900 the government of New Zealand made overtures
to absorb Fiji. The Aborigines Society protested to the colonial
office, and the imperial government refused to sanction the
proposal.