When it comes to crafting pieces worth collecting, Junya Watanabe has delivered for well over two decades. His ability to mix fabrics and production techniques has made him one of the most respected designers in Japan. The DNA of his label focuses on applying innovative twists to key wardrobe staples. In fact the tag on each Junya Watanabe MAN piece states the following:

>>>Something Real
Something that has history, that has a traditional shape
Our way of originality
A New feeling for Basics

Junya Watanabe started his career in fashion right out of school. Watanabe graduated from the prestigious Bunka Fashion College in 1984 and immediately joined the Comme des Garçons as a pattern cutter. Working directly under the tutelage of Rei Kawakubo, Junya quickly ascended the ranks in the company eventually being named the creative director of the Tricot knitwear line. He held the position until 1992 when he was given the opportunity to launch his own label under the name “Junya Watanabe Comme Des Garçons” in 1993 and began showing in Paris that same year. It wasn’t until 2001 however that he began producing menswear.

Watanabe quickly made a name for himself through with his innovative approach to design. His experiments with cutting-edge fabrics, original tailoring and unique pattern-making quickly earned him a cult following among fashion’s elite. Under the guidance of mentor Rei Kawakubo, Watanabe applied a similar avante garde deconstructionist approach. However his menswear is still grounded in a respect for vintage garments and production. That is perhaps why Junya Watanabe’s collaborations with such a wide array of companies have been so successful.

Watanabe strives for authenticity when it comes to executing specific garments and history has shown that he is willing to go straight to the source for production. While collabs are extremely commonplace in fashion today, Junya was really a trailblazer in the art of the collaboration. While this is far from an exhaustive list, these are some of the best men’s collaborations Junya Watanabe has done to date.

Junya Watanabe x Levi’s Poem Denim (2001)

The infamous Poem jeans are one of the most sought after items in Junya’s menswear archive. First introduced in 2001, the jeans were produced by the denim experts at Levi’s. The jeans use a pair of medium wash straight-cut jeans as the base and add screen-printed text along the back left leg. The text itself features the almost sickeningly sweet romantic prose quoted below

While Levi’s and Watanabe have had an on-going partnership for years, this early iteration shows the promise and innovation that has resulted from the joint venture. Subsequent collaborations with Levi’s have featured techniques ranging from elaborate patchwork to digital printing. The ‘poem’ motif has has also been applied to other items including shirting and outerwear in later collections.

Junya Watanabe x Porter (2004)

More than a decade ago, Junya Watanabe teamed up with Porter on an absolutely insane rain jacket. Released as part of the 2004 Spring/Summer collection, the item is a technical Gore-Tex shell adorned with an array of front-facing pockets. The multitude of functional pockets resemble the small bags and accessories that Porter is known to produce. If that’s not enough storage for you, there is even a kangaroo pouch on the back.

The piece is finished off with the trademark Porter branding tag stitched onto the front of the garment. The jacket itself can even be transformed into a tote bag by attaching straps to metal loops at the front of the jacket and carefully folding the piece. While Junya have worked with Porter on other items, none have taken the concept to the extent of the 2004 Gore-Tex shell. This is truly a grail for both Watanabe fanatics and techwear enthusiasts.

Junya Watanabe x Vanson Rider Jacket (2007)

Junya Watanabe's Fall/Winter 2007 collection remains one of his most striking to date. The collection was an ode to biker gear, with most of the looks paying homage to the leather motorcycle jacket in some shape or form. The collection deconstructed the motorcycle jacket into its component parts—collar, belt, zips—and re-distributed the details onto an array of garments. The majority of the models that walked the show donned full on motorcycle helmets further hammering in the point.

It made sense then that Junya would turn to Vanson—one of America's largest producers of motorcycle apparel, pants and biking accessories for the leather pieces. The classic rider’s jackets from the 2007 collection are faithfully executed variants of the original; sharply cut while adding in subtle signature details like the camouflaged inner liner. The best part about the leathers from this collection is that they don’t compromise at all in terms of weight or utility. The leather is actual competition weight calf-leather, suitable for the road but made with the runway in mind. In subsequent collections Junya has continued to work with Vanson on other American classics, including a varsity jacket and a leather tote bag.

Junya Watanabe x Brooks Brothers (2009)

Few names are as synonymous with classic American style as Brooks Brothers. The brand is the oldest men's clothier in the United States and has a reputation of outfitting many US presidents. Junya Watanabe began collaborating with the heritage brand as early as 2009. The ongoing collection focused on two of Brooks Brothers’ best known items: The button-down oxford shirt and the blazer.

The shirting takes a more relaxed approach to traditional oxford cloth shirt. Junya’s vision of the shirt keeps the standard button-down collar but features a slim casual cut with a rounded hem. The shirting mixed solid oxford fabric with hits of either gingham or plaid, breathing life into the traditional prep aesthetic. The shirting also retains the Brooks Brothers logo and buttons. The blazers also offer unconventional innovation to the classic design, adding hits of patchworked fabrics or allowing for the ability to reverse the garment.

Junya Watanabe x Hervier (2012)

Junya took inspiration from traditional workwear for the Fall/Winter 2012 collection. Amongst the many collaborations included in this collection, Watanabe reached out to French workwear brand Hervier Productions for a series of pieces. The pieces focus on outerwear and trousers—utilizing materials like cotton twill, moleskin and wool blends.

The pieces merged traditional workwear details like sturdy metal rivets and utilitarian pocket placement with more refined touches like a paisley lined interior. The collection went on for a couple seasons after it’s initial launch and as a whole the items were offered at a lower price point compared to usual Junya products.

Junya Watanabe x Loewe (2014)

In 2014 Junya teamed up with Spanish luxury fashion house Loewe—a brand notorious for its specialities with leather. The partnership coincided with Loewe’s 40th anniversary in Japan and featured items for both men and women. Speaking on the collection in the Japan Times Junya described his inspirations; “To tie together Loewe and Junya Watanabe, I came up with the idea of combining the essence of each of their icons: leather and denim. A combination of the luxurious and the casual.”

The collection had a strong punk influence with an abundance of zippers, tartan plaid and patchwork details throughout. The leather items really blend the severe punk styling with the level of luxury that Loewe is known for. Certainly the travel bags from the collection are a highlight as well.

Junya Watanabe x The North Face (2017)

Junya Watanabe’s Fall/Winter 2017 in Paris was the public’s first glimpse at the Japanese designer’s latest collaboration project with outdoor outfitters The North Face. The capsule collection was inspired by 1990s hip-hop style, with a particular emphasis on The North Face duffel bag. In a recent interview with Hypebeast, Peter Valles, the former Vice President of Global Creative at The North Face spoke on the collaboration:

“It’s a good example of expecting one thing and then talking to Junya and the vision made us think about what lifestyle could mean to us in a whole different way. For Junya Watanabe, the whole idea of the collaboration is mashing up the retro and the street side.” There was a heavy focus on the equipment for this reason, where he took warranty products to create new ones that still have a story behind them.”

Made in Japan from high quality materials, the capsule collection deconstructs The North Face's durable duffle bags and turns them into functional garments. A key example is the varsity jacket that incorporates PVC resin fabric from the duffle bags throughout the jacket, most prominently in the oversized “The North Face” print on the back. Other jackets from the collection include a cotton oxford work-jacket and a nylon herringbone parka. The partnership is a true mix of classic Junya styling with an ode to one The North Face’s most iconic periods. Surely these jackets will end up as collector’s pieces in the near future.