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Not necessarily. I don't work for PTP, so I'm not sure what their tolerances are suppose to be, but I do know that their Micro-E-Mag on/off pin should be about .670-.675. Trigger rod lengths and stuff like that I just eyeball because MicroMags never seem to work right wih AGD tolerances.

My early experimentations with a Z-body mag are looking like the on off pin length is something around .725 or so. I will post up what that is when I get it dialed in but there may be differences from body to body. It shoots with a .712 but the trigger rod is too tight up against the trigger. It does not shoot at all with a .745 but has some pressure on the rod just will not trip the pin and fire. So I do not have a .725 and have to make one to be sure. I will post final results but this is just one example and I would have to duplicate that with another body to be sure its consistent. It could be that it is not. Depends on how consistent they were with the bodies.

Cphilip - I'm using a z-body on my setup and have no problems with a .750 pin. My current setup is:

Retro Valve
Level 10
Z-body
Intelli Frame
10" 2-piece barrel

I used to have a classic valve with CenterFlag HyperFrame. When I got the lvl10, I was having tolerance issues. I did get it to work with the shortest spring but it always went back to firing problems. Another problem I found with z-body and lvl10 was that the lvl10 bolt head was slightly larger than the lvl7 bolt. This caused the bolt to become logged in the washer inside the body. This was remedied by sanding the bolt till it fit inside the washer. I used to use a z-valve but was experiencing heavy bolt wear and went to the HF pin/bottom. I checked the length of the z-valve and it was around .735 or lower, can't really remember. Trigger rod length has not been modified but noticed that the rod end is pretty close to the trigger. I won't be able to check it till I get another digi caliper. My brother took it back for his job. As soon as I get another caliper, I will post my findings. One question I would like to ask is how do you check the gap between the trigger and the trigger rod.

If you guys are using regular Classic Mags, Minimags or old style RT's, use the .750 pin. The only different pins are the .765 (RT-Pro) and the .712 or .725 for the E-Mag depending on how many o-rings you have in the on/off top.

If the trigger has pressure, but won't fire, try turning up the velocity until it does shoot. Just pull the trigger while you tighten the adjuster on the back of the valve and it should start shooting.

Hi,
My solenoid plunger on my emag just came loose the other day, and when i was checking out the tolerances, I wasn't too sure on where the length was measured from. When I went from the bottom end of the plunger itself to the top of the little (rc airplane type connector), it seemed to be way off when i put it all back in the gun itself. Am i measuring it correctly. I put the plunger where it looks like it used to be, but I havent been able to gas it up yet. Thanks

Hey,
Thanks. I set it somewhere around there awhile ago (to where I thought it felt right, and i believe the caliper was reading 3.005, but it was awhile ago...) anywho, at practice it was outshooting my ricochet. Thanks

Lvl 10 X-Valve bumper

this doesn't really have to do with anything posted here, but i need a new bumper for my bolt, (I'm running a X-Valve with lvl 10) and need to know if the retro bumper on the Airgun Designs site will do the job. Thanks alot.

Originally posted by pbzmag Cphilip - I'm using a z-body on my setup and have no problems with a .750 pin. My current setup is:

Retro Valve
Level 10
Z-body
Intelli Frame
10" 2-piece barrel

I used to have a classic valve with CenterFlag HyperFrame. When I got the lvl10, I was having tolerance issues. I did get it to work with the shortest spring but it always went back to firing problems. Another problem I found with z-body and lvl10 was that the lvl10 bolt head was slightly larger than the lvl7 bolt. This caused the bolt to become logged in the washer inside the body. This was remedied by sanding the bolt till it fit inside the washer. I used to use a z-valve but was experiencing heavy bolt wear and went to the HF pin/bottom. I checked the length of the z-valve and it was around .735 or lower, can't really remember. Trigger rod length has not been modified but noticed that the rod end is pretty close to the trigger. I won't be able to check it till I get another digi caliper. My brother took it back for his job. As soon as I get another caliper, I will post my findings. One question I would like to ask is how do you check the gap between the trigger and the trigger rod.

Why the heck would you sand down your LX bolt when you could have just filed out the washer with a rat tail? Much easier and no damage to the bolt.