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Nojo

After making his name as chef of the upscale Ame in the St. Regis, former Chronicle Rising Star Greg Dunmore opened this special izakaya two years ago, next to the newly opened SFJazz Center. The small modern dining room with eggplant-colored chairs and bamboo tables is dominated by big windows overlooking Franklin Street and by the open kitchen. Dunmore produces small plates and skewers such as chicken thighs with sea salt and lemon, or duck liver with plum sauce. He offers a stellar chawan mushi - custard flavored with crab and matsutaki mushrooms - and chicken katsu. At brunch, don't miss the ramen topped with an egg.