Thursday, 28 November 2013

Calafate
attracts many many tourists because it is the nearest town to the
famous Perito Moreno Glacier. It is much smaller then El Chalten and
has a very different feel to it. It caters more for mass tourism than
for serious mountaineers. Having said that, it is not for nothing
that the Moreno glacier has been declared a World Heritage site by
UNESCO. It's 5 km wide front rises 60 meters above the water and it
is a spectacular sight and sound when great masses of ice crash into
the lake. There are ramped walks so you can see the glacier from all
angles and we spend a very relaxed and pleasant day. I wouldn't have
missed it but neither Malc or I are very good at just sitting and
looking at beautiful sites we would rather be doing something. Even
though the Viedma glacier in El Chalten wasn't as big walking on it
in crampons and crawling into the caves left a much bigger
impression. Next stop will be Torres del Paine National Park where we
hope to walk the 'W' a four or five day trek.

We decided
after long deliberations to take the bus to Puerto Natales. The
logistics of cycling into the park where just to complicated because
you have to cross the border from Argentina to Chile. And Chile
doesn't allow you to bring in any fresh food. Since buying food in
the Parc is very limited and expensive it would be better to enter
the Park from Puerto Natales which is in Chile. We also thought it
would probably be easier to find somewhere to store our bikes and
bags. We were so glad we went on the bus because it turned out to be
the windiest day so far on the whole trip. It would have been totally
impossible to cycle in this wind strength and we would have had to
stay in Calafate until it died down. On top of that the Chilean
border staff were on strike so there were long delays predicted. When
we arrived in Puerto Natales much later then anticipated because of
the strike it was cold and raining hard and as usual we had nothing
booked and no idea where to go. But within minutes of leaving the bus
station we were approached by a very kind man who invited us into his
shop. He offered us coffee and rang around for a cheap hostal with
space for bicycles. The owner was an ex trekking guide and was able
to offer us all the information we needed regarding the trekking. We
really landed on our feet in Puerto Natales.