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“Unlike many great classic cocktails that you have to make individually, milk punch actually tastes better if you let it ‘marinate’ overnight. All the elements come together this way,” says Ti Martin, co-owner of New Orleans’s storied Commander’s Palace. During the restaurant’s beloved brunch, its brandy rendition appears on almost every table; in the summertime Martin prefers bourbon. Make it the night before, and then serve it a rocks glass with freshly grated nutmeg. "This is my favorite Mardi Gras drink," says Martin. "We actually freeze them in water bottles, and after a few hours on our float it is a perfect slushy consistency.”

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When you first see milk punch, you may think it’s a misnomer. Though the 18th-century cocktail is made with milk, it’s as transparent as water (okay, more like translucent), which is why contemporary bartenders are as obsessed with it as was Benjamin Franklin back in 1763. But wait, what happens to the, uh, milky stuff? Well, the milk gets mixed with liquor, simple syrup, and dairy-curdling citrus, then those curds get strained out, leaving behind flavorful, alcohol-infused whey. In the era before refrigeration, this process ensured the punch could remain shelf-stable for months.

Since then, this cocktail has remained a New Orleans tradition, an eye-opener that provides much-needed stamina during the whirl of Mardi Gras festivities. But today, bartenders across the country are whipping up their own versions, with liquors ranging from the traditional brandy to vodka. Be forewarned—some of these recipes are time-intensive… so plan ahead!

“Unlike many great classic cocktails that you have to make individually, milk punch actually tastes better if you let it ‘marinate’ overnight. All the elements come together this way,” says Ti Martin, co-owner of New Orleans’s storied Commander’s Palace. During the restaurant’s beloved brunch, its brandy rendition appears on almost every table; in the summertime Martin prefers bourbon. Make it the night before, and then serve it a rocks glass with freshly grated nutmeg. "This is my favorite Mardi Gras drink," says Martin. "We actually freeze them in water bottles, and after a few hours on our float it is a perfect slushy consistency.”