Yes, you can retain your YJ pump and btw, the throttle body has the fuel pressure regulator built into it (in case you didn't know, seems to be a common misconception). You don't need another one.

That is great news!!
Don, Its a 88
Another long day in the garage.
Had a problem with the AA mounts. I had set up a welder friend to come to my house to weld in the mounts. THey were C clamped in this morning. I marked the mounts and unbolted the motor from the mounts and raised it up.
Drilled the 2 mounting holes through the frame and bolted them on. I then tried to re mount the motor on the mounts and they came up short witdh wise. .
Was pissed that it wouldnt fit and I was sure that I didnt move the mounts when driling

I then remembered that I had to pull the frame mounts with the C clapm to get them on the frame. I looseened the bolts a bit then the bolt mounts lined up. I then tightened the frame bolts to draw them to the frame.
Both mounts are set at full width and mine are set a few inches forward of the originals. Wonder why they dont fit correctly? They work but are tight.
This awap is going very different from what I have read about othere.
First thing is the drive shafts. both of mine stil fit pefectly
Also it looks like the skid plate will fit too. I have plenty of space for the fan and the radiator. I also have good air cleaner to hood space
I am having a problem shifting the transfer case. Not to knowedgeable about when to shift into 4wd. Should the transmission be in N ?
I guess this is the least of my problems and should get to work on the electrics
Thsts it for tonight. Vacation is on Wednesday so i will have a week of down time. Im sure my wifes happy

Im back from vacation and its time to dig into the swap again.
I replaced the distributer that I cracked when removing the 4.3 from the S10. Attatched the plug wires and a few of the plugs that go on the fire wall. I also attatched the ground strap to the firewall. Also cut the connections off the YJ fuel line so the S10 and YJ connect.

Here they are on temporally and need clamps
Tomorrow I plan on splicing in wires and getting it started before Saturday night

You can look at the starter system diagram, and find all the connectors there. Look for the bulkhead connector and then go back and look in the connector views. That should give a pinout.
Kind of a long way around I know, Alldata isnt well known for making things easy to find! I normally just use the search function and then select from the list that appears.

You can look at the starter system diagram, and find all the connectors there. Look for the bulkhead connector and then go back and look in the connector views. That should give a pinout.
Kind of a long way around I know, Alldata isnt well known for making things easy to find! I normally just use the search function and then select from the list that appears.

I have this which is Jeep with a whole lot of other relays and wires on the other end
and this which had a bulk head plug on the end. The other ends have relays and everythings connected to the engine
Theres close to 20 wires on jeep vrs chevy .
It would seem too simple if i can just match the two sets up by a pin out diagram.
Im also confused as to why swaps are requireing a secondary fuse box

We'll assume you have the early style ecm rather than the later pcm. Try this and see if the colors seem to be accurate **note, the colors won't always be EXACT but it should be the same more often than not. If so, the pinout is correct**:http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=45293

That forum is dedicated to installing GM tbi systems on other engines (International Harvester I guess) but because of that, it also means they have all the info you could possibly need to make one work. That site is the reason I was able to hack the harness on my 350 and make it start on the first try.