I don't know if I'd call it engineering, more like trial and error,dumb luck and persistence all rolled together.

Another thing I forgot to add. If you're getting frustrated at it, walk away and do something else until you forget about it. I was doing a dodge once( another shop used the wrong bolt like what you have here) and got so pissed I started throwing tools. Walked away and cooled off and wound up pulling the bolt out in less than 5 minutes. A project like this requires patience, and the first thing to go out the door when you're angry is patience. So keep a cool head.

I very much agree with this! Too many times I've become infuriated with the seemingly pointless engineering designs, only to have them work flawlessly after I took a break, drank a beer and cooled off.

I'm not sure if you mentioned and I missed it. How did you do the hammock mounts? Especially so that it would hold up so much weight? Thanks And great job btw! You're detailed pictures and posts gave me a few ideas and cleared up some things I was wondering about. Wish I understood the mechanics of the wiring and stuff like you do.

Wow. Quite an undertaking. Looks like you're handling it with an optimistic attitude.

Just a quick question: Are you flipping off the engine in the pictures above? All I can see is a middle finger. Haha!

Good luck!

Yes I was.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Not to be a smarta$$, but what you have there is cake compared to a v8, for the simple fact that you can get at the work easily. I'm a mechanic in the rust belt and just about every ford and dodge truck with a v8 has broken/rusted manifold bolts. With them you have to raise the engine off the mounts, use a 90 degree angle drill, and squeeze your hands in between the head and frame rail just to work on the thing. I only do about 1 a week (that's all the patience I have) so I'm pretty good at doing it. So here's a few suggestions.

I've never had an EZ out work, regardless of the brand. Usually if it came out with an ez out, it would have came out with a vice grips or left handed drill bit.

I've used cobalt drill bits with good success, all the carbide bits seemed to be too brittle to use with anything but a mill. Stay away from your coated hss bits that you can get at the hardware, it might work for the first bolt but the coating will wear off easily, also hardware store bits aren't the best quality in the first place.

If you think it is rusted, heat and penetrating oil will be your best friend. PB blaster is good but I prefer aerokroil. It just seems to work better. If the stud isn't broken flush with the head, get a good visegrips, heat the head up with an acetylene torch, quench the bolt with penetrant, and than turn the stud out with the vice grips. It takes a certain feel to figure out if it's going to come out or snap off. So don't be afraid to heat it up and or quench it multiple times.

If you have a good 220 welder you can try and weld a nut on there, especially the bolts that aren't snapped off flush. It does work but it requires practice and good equipment. I"ve only done it a few times because with the pickups you can't get a welder in there to do it.

If you're going to drill it out, use left handed bits. Making sure the bit is centered is very important, so grind the end of the bolt flat to the head. I then use a 3/16 x 60° single flute uncoated countersink. It has a sharp point and is very good at creating a center. They seem to work better then center drills do or just trying to free hand a regular bit. You can get them at any machine shop, or from here http://www.mcmaster.com/ part # 3285A32 . Then you will use a small bit, and size by size work your way bigger until it screws out via the drill, or you have the whole bolt drilled out.

Any other questions or tips you can pm me.

Thanks. I threw all the remaining, unbroken easy outs in the trash after this. I will never use those again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MistRiver

I'm not sure if you mentioned and I missed it. How did you do the hammock mounts? Especially so that it would hold up so much weight? Thanks And great job btw! You're detailed pictures and posts gave me a few ideas and cleared up some things I was wondering about. Wish I understood the mechanics of the wiring and stuff like you do.

And screwed them in where the roof support rib things are. 2 screws on each, and it held my 180 pound friends well. I tested it first but being a lanky bastard clocking in at 145 it wasn't that much of a test. But it should hold fine.
__________________________________________________

I finished the broken-bolt-drilling-out-retapping procedure. Very satisfying to have that out of the way but it was dreadful.

My procedure was to use these things called timeserts, which you drill the hole a few sizes over what the intended bolt is, tap it, screw in the timesert and use the expander tool (essentially just a graduated bolt of the right size to fit inside the timesert) which expands the piece until it won't back out of the hole you tapped. Pretty simple and these things are GENIUS. If I ever have a broken bolt again I will not mess about but just drill it out and get more of these. They even make kits for certain BMW and Cadillac Northstar V8s that are notorious for breaking head or manifold bolts, and it is bascally a permenant repair. You can torque the bolts down to spec and they will not pull out (if you do it right).

So first, drill it out to the right size. The bolts for the manifold were M10 x 1.5 pitch, and the timeserts had me drill out a 13/32 hole, then tap that.

Blow away all the metal shards and you're left with this:

Close up of the Timesert:

Thread it into the hole:

And use the expander to lock it into place.

Not pictured was using a countersink tool so that the insert doesn't go too far into the hole but rather sits flush with the head.

I have 10 out of 12 bolt holes ready. 2 have broken easy outs (f those things) and I wasn't able to get them out. I am debating leaving it as is and just running with 10 of 12 bolts in or trying some more stuff on it. I don't have the $ to pay a welder or machinist to come work on it. Anyone have any brilliant ideas for how to remove those? The one thing I found that looks like it could work is this: http://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Bit-Broken ... B00B1E7KCK but a) it is expensive for ONE BIT and b) it looks scammy as-seen-on-tv type thing.

I have 10 out of 12 bolt holes ready. 2 have broken easy outs (f those things) and I wasn't able to get them out. I am debating leaving it as is and just running with 10 of 12 bolts in or trying some more stuff on it. I don't have the $ to pay a welder or machinist to come work on it. Anyone have any brilliant ideas for how to remove those? The one thing I found that looks like it could work is this: http://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Bit-Broken ... B00B1E7KCK but a) it is expensive for ONE BIT and b) it looks scammy as-seen-on-tv type thing.

Hmm. That Rescue Bit looks interesting. I have a need for something like that. My girlfriend's Jeep has three wheel nuts that are so rounded off and rusted that nothing will get them off except drilling out the centers of the bolts and breaking off the part holding on the nuts. I've been debating doing this with a drill and normal bits, but the Rescue Bit thing seems like a better idea.

If you are thinking of getting it only for removing your broken bolts, when you're done I'll buy it off you for half what you paid and we both get to use it for half price. But if it breaks while you're using it, you're on your own.

I have 10 out of 12 bolt holes ready. 2 have broken easy outs (f those things) and I wasn't able to get them out. I am debating leaving it as is and just running with 10 of 12 bolts in or trying some more stuff on it. I don't have the $ to pay a welder or machinist to come work on it. Anyone have any brilliant ideas for how to remove those? The one thing I found that looks like it could work is this: http://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Bit-Broken ... B00B1E7KCK but a) it is expensive for ONE BIT and b) it looks scammy as-seen-on-tv type thing.

Hmm. That Rescue Bit looks interesting. I have a need for something like that. My girlfriend's Jeep has three wheel nuts that are so rounded off and rusted that nothing will get them off except drilling out the centers of the bolts and breaking off the part holding on the nuts. I've been debating doing this with a drill and normal bits, but the Rescue Bit thing seems like a better idea.

If you are thinking of getting it only for removing your broken bolts, when you're done I'll buy it off you for half what you paid and we both get to use it for half price. But if it breaks while you're using it, you're on your own.

I just ordered it, no idea when it will be here. I got the 1/8 inch one to use in an air dremel. I am a bit desperate at this point because I know how quickly exhaust leaks recur when bolts are missing, haha. I don't want to leave these out. I will only use one head (if I don't break it) and will save the other for you if it ends up working out

I actually bought left-hand drill bits at harbor freight and they have been the best bits so far, they had no issue going through these 10.9 hardness bolts (i think equivalent of grade 8?).

I just ordered it, no idea when it will be here. I got the 1/8 inch one to use in an air dremel. I am a bit desperate at this point because I know how quickly exhaust leaks recur when bolts are missing, haha. I don't want to leave these out. I will only use one head (if I don't break it) and will save the other for you if it ends up working out

I actually bought left-hand drill bits at harbor freight and they have been the best bits so far, they had no issue going through these 10.9 hardness bolts (i think equivalent of grade 8?).

Great. If it works and lasts, let me know. Send me a PM in case I miss it here. Thanks!

That rescue bit looks interesting. Let us know if it works. Another thing I've read that you could try is the carbide burrs you would use in a dremel brand tool. Supposedly if you get a 1/8" one and spin it too the moon it will slowly grind out what you're working on. I've never used one so I'm only going off what I've read. The only thing I'll say is to make sure you try and control the heat with them. You don't want to overheat and ruin the tool your using. Main reason I say this is because in that rescue bit ad, the picture in the center where the ez out is cherry red, I'd say the tool is just as hot or hotter than the part, which isn't good.

That rescue bit looks interesting. Let us know if it works. Another thing I've read that you could try is the carbide burrs you would use in a dremel brand tool. Supposedly if you get a 1/8" one and spin it too the moon it will slowly grind out what you're working on. I've never used one so I'm only going off what I've read. The only thing I'll say is to make sure you try and control the heat with them. You don't want to overheat and ruin the tool your using. Main reason I say this is because in that rescue bit ad, the picture in the center where the ez out is cherry red, I'd say the tool is just as hot or hotter than the part, which isn't good.

Thanks. I burned up / shattered 6 of those dremel carbide bits but they worked well before they broke. I think in that ad they were trying to say the piece gets hot while the tool stays cooler which sounds ridiculous but I don't know.

I ended up being able to drill out the second to last one with just a regular cobalt drill bit, and a lot of luck, but not without breaking 2 bits in the hole. I used an air chisel with a pointy bit to shatter the broken drill bit out, then finally got lucky. The bits kept catching on the easy outs and too much pressure on one side and then they broke. I got the last one, the most stubborn one, with the "rescue bit." To put it into perspective, I dulled 3 brand new 1/8" cobalt bits to make it roughly 3 mm into the hole, and then got the rescue bit on a power drill, around 1500 rpm, and it ate through the remaining ~15mm of easy out like it wasn't anything but aluminum. I then tried to increase the size of the hole but broke ANOTHER cobalt bit (probably broke 15 of them doing this) so I just put the rescue bit on the air dremel I have, spun it up full speed @ 90 psi, roughly 40,000 RPM, and just milled out the rest. Once I got into the cylinder head cast iron I finished up with the 13/32 bit, countersunk, tapped and put in the last timesert. So all 12 holes are FINALLY repaired.

I ordered a new radiator last week, after talking to a few shops to rebuild it. The shops wanted $12-1300 to rebuild and $1400 for new. I shopped around and got one for $956 with $100 shipping. The rad is 26 x 36" and weighs more than I do, so it was shipped freight. I expect that to arride tomorrow or Friday. So next step is to clean the F out of the exhaust gasket surfaces, put the gaskets on, hold up the mani and put the bolts in NOT CROSS THREADED with LOTS of anti-sieze lubricant. The turbo is in less than healthy condition, so I anticipate having to take some of this apart in a couple years (or couple thousand miles who knows) to swap turbos. It isn't dumping any oil but it has lots of shaft play and seems to have a decent bit of wear on the fins.

I am also flushing out the water jackets in the block with distilled water, putting in new silicone radiator hoses, possibly new thermostats, (yes there are two) and changing the coolant filter. THEN I will pop the valve cover and do a valve adjustment which I should have done when doing the injectors. I also have a new air filter. I also electrocuted the sh!t out of myself when one of those shitty clamp work lights fell apart and the hot wire touched the frame I was leaning on. Still gave me a nice jolt but thank science for GFCI outlets!

My hat is off to you, as I know what you just went through. This job would have been beyond all but the very brave. I'm really glad to see you persevere and whip it. The guy that half-a**ed this job before you has got some bad karma coming his way. Well done and thank you for documenting this monumental task.