Anyone get a ps4 and have the 80" sharp? I'm in gamer mode and looks amazing, but was wondering if someone had any suggestions or settings to share that they recommend / use. Thanks!

I'm currently running the PS4 with the 632U, and like you, I use Game Mode. I'm currently using the Suzook settings with a massively decreased back light fluctuating between -8 and -12 depending on what time of day it is. I also use a +1 Sharpness setting because (according to my eyes) it gives the picture complete clarity at my preferred seating distance of approx. 10 feet while playing games. I find that if I use a sharpness setting of 0 while playing games, I can notice some slight texture blurring.

For Blu-Ray movie playback, I use the Suzook settings with Movie Mode with a decreased back light of -10 to -12. I keep my sharpness at 0 with a seating distance of 7.5 feet. The Suzook settings when combined with my 6500k LED bias light, give a very authentic movie theater feel.

I love the way the 632U handles games, and I've even had Sony R550A-70 owners tell me that they cannot feel a speck of input latency while playing games in my Sharp's game mode. I'm not really sure what exactly the TV is doing (while in game mode) but the low level input latency can't be replicated in any of the other modes, even with all of the settings cloned.

Also, don't let those XBoners get you down, I'm sure you'd prefer to play the majority of your multi-platform games at a native 1080p/60fps over 720p/60 any day of the week. =)

I'm currently running the PS4 with the 632U, and like you, I use Game Mode. I'm currently using the Suzook settings with a massively decreased back light fluctuating between -8 and -12 depending on what time of day it is. I also use a +1 Sharpness setting because (according to my eyes) it gives the picture complete clarity at my preferred seating distance of approx. 10 feet while playing games. I find that if I use a sharpness setting of 0 while playing games, I can notice some slight texture blurring.

For Blu-Ray movie playback, I use the Suzook settings with Movie Mode with a decreased back light of -10 to -12. I keep my sharpness at 0 with a seating distance of 7.5 feet. The Suzook settings when combined with my 6500k LED bias light, give a very authentic movie theater feel.

I love the way the 632U handles games, and I've even had Sony R550A-70 owners tell me that they cannot feel a speck of input latency while playing games in my Sharp's game mode. I'm not really sure what exactly the TV is doing (while in game mode) but the low level input latency can't be replicated in any of the other modes, even with all of the settings cloned.

Also, don't let those XBoners get you down, I'm sure you'd prefer to play the majority of your multi-platform games at a native 1080p/60fps over 720p/60 any day of the week. =)

The GAME mode cancels almost all of the picture processing to reduce lag as much as possible. I have a PC hooked up to my Sharp and in any other mode, the lag, when using a mouse, is intolerable. Game mode is great for games - I agree 100%!!
I use '0' backlight in game mode and '0' sharpness (+1 in other modes); contrast +31; brightness +1; Gamma +1; CMS saturation Cyan -13. Everything else is basically default. I have a PS3 and PS4 hooked up to it.

Checking in to see if any new settings have been tweaked around since the previous posts. Got a 632 this March and really like it. Currently using what I presume are Billdag's latest settings. On a similar note could someone pls explain what are the main differences between Billdag's and Suzook's settings from a real life perspective?

Hi! Nice to see the the thread hasn't totally died yet or maybe it has - 1 post in 4 months ain't much.

Anyway, glad you like my settings and I do have some interesting news.

Just so I wouldn't be a total hypocrite, I did indeed have a top ISF calibrator (Michael Chen) do my 80" Sharp a couple of months ago. He used the movie setting and mine are in the Standard setting so it's quite easy to compare.

The ISF settings are very easy on the eyes and there is some subtle color shade differences. My standard settings look very close some of the time but overall it has a little more POP and the Gamma is a whisker higher.

As I've maintained for a long time - If you know how to set your backlight, contrast, brightness, sharpness and gamma settings you are almost there. The ISF improvement is fairly subtle but certainly worthwhile is you are a complete newbie and just watch the TV the way it comes.

Michael Chen is a great fellow and I recommend him heartily if you would like a top notch calibration. He was actually one of the fellows responsible for setting up THX video standards as far as I remember.

This thread has had a remarkably long life of well over 2-1/2 years. I check it every month or two for old time's sake but of course, new models have now replaced this extraordinary set.

I've been recommending the LC-80LE642U to family and friends lately. It appears to be almost identical and has the much desired Full Array Backlighting

Thanks for replying, Billdag. I'll have to see if I can find a calibrator of his calibre here in the San Diego County area. Interesting that he chose movie mode. Must be the top pros playground of choice for good reasons. In the meantime I'm pleased with your standard settings plenty enough!

The 642U series appears to be nearly identical to the 632u and 633u. Full array backlighting and 120Hz. As has been mentioned before the 633u is basically a 632u with 240Hz backlight strobe - not the same as a true refresh rate.

The 642U series appears to be nearly identical to the 632u and 633u. Full array backlighting and 120Hz. As has been mentioned before the 633u is basically a 632u with 240Hz backlight strobe - not the same as a true refresh rate.

I'm figuring that pro calibrators set ambient lighting within a range in order to get the most out of their settings. For my set using Billdag's settings the darker the room the better it seems. Right now I've turned down all recessed lighting close to the set with the only recessed lighting shining about 20 ft away so we're not completely in the dark. It's a family room tied into a kitchen sort of thing.

I'm figuring that pro calibrators set ambient lighting within a range in order to get the most out of their settings. For my set using Billdag's settings the darker the room the better it seems. Right now I've turned down all recessed lighting close to the set with the only recessed lighting shining about 20 ft away so we're not completely in the dark. It's a family room tied into a kitchen sort of thing.

OK! Now you got me really excited. YES - my settings are optimized for low ambient light. The thing is, if you watch the set in completely dark room, it will be hard on your eyes and worse, your black floor level will rise to a medium dark gray! The solution is to have some ambient light. This will make it easier on your eyes and subjectively lower the black levels (watching the set in fairly bright conditions gives you coal black floor level - even cheap LCD's have great blacks in brighter rooms. That's why you'll never see plasma sets compared to LCD's unless they're in a dimly lit room).

THE ULTIMATE SOLUTION, which has been discussed here before, is to buy the 16 foot LED lighting kit from Amazon and attach it to the back of your set. Here's where you get it:

Under $32 and fully adjustable for brightness and color (each LED is RGB!) There are 5 presets plus a bunch of other colors and effects. Very cool! I recommend using masking tape to reinforce the adhesive strip included.

BUT.......the best part is how the set looks at night with really dim ambient light and the Amazon LED backlight on. Subjectively, the black floor level plunges to about 1/3 of how it looks with them off!

I've had these lights since September 2013 and I am still amazed when there is a commercial or something on with a black background. The black level looks incredible. Virtually indistinguishable from the black frame. This setup has been the single biggest improvement in viewing enjoyment since I bought the set over 2-1/2 Yrs. ago.

When you say attach it to the back of the set where have you found the optimal places to do so? Is it for example 2" from the bezel or as close as one can get to the actual edge of the set without the strip being visible from the front or viewing sides? I can also guess there might've been some recent tweaking (since calibration) of perhaps for instance to the top of the set or the bottom or sides getting different treatment depending on set-tilt or even how high the set is mounted. In my case the set is mounted over the mantle with very little spacing/gap (1/8") between the bottom edge and the mantle top. Plenty of space all around however the top and sides. Btw the set bottom edge is 65" off the floor so quite high indeed with about a 5 degree downward tilt. Main viewing area is directly in front about 14' away.

When you say attach it to the back of the set where have you found the optimal places to do so? Is it for example 2" from the bezel or as close as one can get to the actual edge of the set without the strip being visible from the front or viewing sides? I can also guess there might've been some recent tweaking (since calibration) of perhaps for instance to the top of the set or the bottom or sides getting different treatment depending on set-tilt or even how high the set is mounted. In my case the set is mounted over the mantle with very little spacing/gap (1/8") between the bottom edge and the mantle top. Plenty of space all around however the top and sides. Btw the set bottom edge is 65" off the floor so quite high indeed with about a 5 degree downward tilt. Main viewing area is directly in front about 14' away.

TIA

vcguy

I have mine mounted about 3" in from the side. At that it JUST about makes it all the way around. My set is on a Sanus wall bracket 23" up from the the floor and about 8" out from the wall. I watch the set from 10-1/2 feet which is optimum for 20-20 vision watching 1080P presentation. You will need to reinforce the light ribbon with masking or duct tape. Otherwise it will gradually loosen.
You may need to experiment with your unique setup. Not a big deal. I don't think I spent more than 15 minutes installing it. Your wall color will play a big factor as well. Mine is eggshell so it works great for reflecting the LED's.
I know others only use the light for the sides and top so that may suit your setup as well. In any case, $32 is an incredibly cheap investment (or gamble) for something that really makes a large improvement in the viewing experience.

Well, I thought I'd keep the thread alive...After almost three years, I'm seeing some hot spotting on a blank screen. In the lower left corner and on the left side of the screen there are several bright spots when changing sources or inputs or when there's a fade to 'black'. I'm going to give Sharp a call tomorrow and see what they say. I opted to purchase the extended service plan in June of 2012, so I might as well see if I can use it. Other than this, the set has been top notch. Everyone that sees it for the first time can't help but comment on how sweet it is.

I have a big wall to fill and I see that's Costco Canada (along with a few other places) have this for sale this week for $3000. Just wondering if that is a good price for this model? I know it's a couple years old...

Hey Bill,
could you post your calibration settings for general use (Shows, sports and movies)? I can't seem to find it in this thread. Looking at getting the Costco model as you recommend it.
Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by billdag

Hi! Nice to see the the thread hasn't totally died yet or maybe it has - 1 post in 4 months ain't much.

Anyway, glad you like my settings and I do have some interesting news.

Just so I wouldn't be a total hypocrite, I did indeed have a top ISF calibrator (Michael Chen) do my 80" Sharp a couple of months ago. He used the movie setting and mine are in the Standard setting so it's quite easy to compare.

The ISF settings are very easy on the eyes and there is some subtle color shade differences. My standard settings look very close some of the time but overall it has a little more POP and the Gamma is a whisker higher.

As I've maintained for a long time - If you know how to set your backlight, contrast, brightness, sharpness and gamma settings you are almost there. The ISF improvement is fairly subtle but certainly worthwhile is you are a complete newbie and just watch the TV the way it comes.

Michael Chen is a great fellow and I recommend him heartily if you would like a top notch calibration. He was actually one of the fellows responsible for setting up THX video standards as far as I remember.

This thread has had a remarkably long life of well over 2-1/2 years. I check it every month or two for old time's sake but of course, new models have now replaced this extraordinary set.

I've been recommending the LC-80LE642U to family and friends lately. It appears to be almost identical and has the much desired Full Array Backlighting

Well, I thought I'd keep the thread alive...After almost three years, I'm seeing some hot spotting on a blank screen. In the lower left corner and on the left side of the screen there are several bright spots when changing sources or inputs or when there's a fade to 'black'. I'm going to give Sharp a call tomorrow and see what they say. I opted to purchase the extended service plan in June of 2012, so I might as well see if I can use it. Other than this, the set has been top notch. Everyone that sees it for the first time can't help but comment on how sweet it is.

I had a similar thing happen to my 632U set a couple of years ago. I talked about it in this thread. Turned out it was from cleaning the screen in a haphazard fashion. Wiping it down vertically with a well padded microfiber cloth restored its cloud free perfection. Give it a shot and see if it helps - it DID for me!

Hey Bill,
could you post your calibration settings for general use (Shows, sports and movies)? I can't seem to find it in this thread. Looking at getting the Costco model as you recommend it.
Thanks.

Well that came it handy - AVS sends me an email when somebody quotes me. My brother bought the LC80LE642U last month on my recommendation. I went over to his house a few days later to help him set it up. No surprise - the set is VERY similar to my 632U. I transplanted my settings to his set and we were both very pleased with the result. So, without further ado here are the settings we settled on:
AV Mode: Standard
OPC: Off
Backlight: (-4) This is the only adjustment you should use to brighten your picture!
Contrast: +31 (Any higher and it starts to crush white detail)
Brightness: +1 (Any higher and it starts to raise the black floor level)
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +1
ADVANCED MENU
CMS Hue: All 0 except red (+4)
CMS Saturation: -6, -6, 0, -12, 0, -10 (top to bottom)
CMS Value: 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, -13 (top to bottom)
Color Temp: Low
Motion Enhancement: 120Hz High (reduces blur considerably)
Gamma: +1
Film Mode: Adv. High (If you like SOE - otherwise Standard) - 642U has a wider range of adjustments for this. Adjust to suit your preference.
DNR: Off
Monochrome: Off
Range of OPC: +6, -6 (Doesn't really matter cause you should have OPC turned OFF)
Any other settings I may have forgotten: OFF

While I was checking the settings I had the set on an unused input (the backlight does NOT turn off in this case). Very happy to report that after 3+ Yrs. the black level is still satisfyingly dark and not a hint of clouds of flashlighting. This is the only set of 13 I've owned that can claim this. Some of them were truly bad!

If I was going to buy a large LCD 1080P set today, I would still choose the 642U!

If you want to make your viewing experience significantly more enjoyable and stress-free, I highly highly recommend the LED bias lighting kit from Amazon here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The best $32 you'll ever spend. Subjectively, it drops the black floor level about 70% when set up properly. Fully adjustable for all colors and brightness levels. Comes with remote. I've bought 5 sets so far for myself and family and friends.

Much appreciated. Looking forward to getting this TV and setting it up. Will also order those lights from Amazon.

Quote:

Originally Posted by billdag

Well that came it handy - AVS sends me an email when somebody quotes me. My brother bought the LC80LE642U last month on my recommendation. I went over to his house a few days later to help him set it up. No surprise - the set is VERY similar to my 632U. I transplanted my settings to his set and we were both very pleased with the result. So, without further ado here are the settings we settled on:
AV Mode: Standard
OPC: Off
Backlight: (-4) This is the only adjustment you should use to brighten your picture!
Contrast: +31 (Any higher and it starts to crush white detail)
Brightness: +1 (Any higher and it starts to raise the black floor level)
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +1
ADVANCED MENU
CMS Hue: All 0 except red (+4)
CMS Saturation: -6, -6, 0, -12, 0, -10 (top to bottom)
CMS Value: 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, -13 (top to bottom)
Color Temp: Low
Motion Enhancement: 120Hz High (reduces blur considerably)
Gamma: +1
Film Mode: Adv. High (If you like SOE - otherwise Standard) - 642U has a wider range of adjustments for this. Adjust to suit your preference.
DNR: Off
Monochrome: Off
Range of OPC: +6, -6 (Doesn't really matter cause you should have OPC turned OFF)
Any other settings I may have forgotten: OFF

While I was checking the settings I had the set on an unused input (the backlight does NOT turn off in this case). Very happy to report that after 3+ Yrs. the black level is still satisfyingly dark and not a hint of clouds of flashlighting. This is the only set of 13 I've owned that can claim this. Some of them were truly bad!

If I was going to buy a large LCD 1080P set today, I would still choose the 642U!

If you want to make your viewing experience significantly more enjoyable and stress-free, I highly highly recommend the LED bias lighting kit from Amazon here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The best $32 you'll ever spend. Subjectively, it drops the black floor level about 70% when set up properly. Fully adjustable for all colors and brightness levels. Comes with remote. I've bought 5 sets so far for myself and family and friends.

I had a similar thing happen to my 632U set a couple of years ago. I talked about it in this thread. Turned out it was from cleaning the screen in a haphazard fashion. Wiping it down vertically with a well padded microfiber cloth restored its cloud free perfection. Give it a shot and see if it helps - it DID for me!

Still in love with this Sharp after two years. Everything looks great on it. Direct TV loses some of its pop on my 106" front PJ setup but looks fabulous at 80 inches. The 632U is terrific for everyday viewing.

42" in the dining room.50" in the bedroom 80" in the living room 65" in the family room 70" in the family room 106" in the family room "There is another system" Video Modes: SDTV-EDTV-XGA-HDTV-4K

Long time lurker, first time poster. My 642U showed up today from costco. They are having a sale right now for $2299. Also ordered the amazon backlight which was on sale for $16. Will be using billdag's settings too. Thanks. Gotta love the internet.

Long time lurker, first time poster. My 642U showed up today from costco. They are having a sale right now for $2299. Also ordered the amazon backlight which was on sale for $16. Will be using billdag's settings too. Thanks. Gotta love the internet.

Yes, it's amazing! I was coming from a 73" Mitsubishi DLP and the difference is quite significant. It really shines playing video games though. its like I have a Xbox One Plus. I watch a lot of basketball too and makes a big difference there too. It's does take some calibrating though. I started with billdag's settings from the forum here and then adjusted as I watched more shows. It looks really good just from an aesthetic standpoint too. Worth every penny.

Yes, it's amazing! I was coming from a 73" Mitsubishi DLP and the difference is quite significant. It really shines playing video games though. its like I have a Xbox One Plus. I watch a lot of basketball too and makes a big difference there too. It's does take some calibrating though. I started with billdag's settings from the forum here and then adjusted as I watched more shows. It looks really good just from an aesthetic standpoint too. Worth every penny.

Can anyone here help me with 632 settings that will allow me to listen to Pandora audio coming from a DirecTv DVR and simultaneously watch digital photos coming from a disc loaded in a PS3 that does not have a sound track on it. Both inputs to the 632 are via HDMI.

I am currently able to see & hear Pandora and see my photos on the 632 but just not in the combination described above.

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