It would be helpful if you posted a model number for us. The model number can be found on the model/serial tag that is located on the dryer.

Why is it your understanding that you need them parts? Without troubleshooting it with a multimeter or at the very lest removing the heating element so you can inspect it for a broken wire you are just guessing.

You should also consider ordering part from the places that support this forum instead of the place you posted links too.

Need a model number to know for sure. The 279838 element, and the 279816 thermal cutoff are the most commons parts replaced for no heat. If your dryer is older it might take a 4391960 element and 279769 tco, instead. The thermal fuse, 3392519 will not cause a no heat symptom on an electric dryer. It will cause a no start symptom. A timer, burnt wire or tripped breaker can cause a no heat symptom, too. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby why not get a $5 meter so you don't have to guess?

Yep, I am just guessing. I just want to replace all the parts that could possibly be causing it not to heat. Are those the only parts that I could possibly have to replace to fix it? Is there something wrong with just changing it all out, other than spending unnecessary money? I don't intend to purchase from amazon, it is just what I first saw when google searching. What stores support the site?I can find the model number shortly, I'm on my phone nursing a baby at the moment, but once he's asleep I'll check it out.

Need a model number to know for sure. The 279838 element, and the 279816 thermal cutoff are the most commons parts replaced for no heat. If your dryer is older it might take a 4391960 element and 279769 tco, instead. The thermal fuse, 3392519 will not cause a no heat symptom on an electric dryer. It will cause a no start symptom. A timer, burnt wire or tripped breaker can cause a no heat symptom, too. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby why not get a $5 meter so you don't have to guess?

Thanks, my husband did check voltage to the dryer, and no breakers have been tripped.

I'm not offended. Set your meter to the ohms setting. Touch the probes to the terminals of the heater and the thermal cutoff. If you get a reading of infinity, the part is bad. 80 or 90 percent of the time and no heat symptom would be either the element or thermal cutoff. It would be unfortunate if you ordered the parts and then found it needs a $100 timer,3976577, instead.

Thanks, guys. My husband said he did test for continuity when he tested for voltage. He said the thermal cutoff had continuity, he's just not sure he checked the element correctly. Do we take off the cover to the element to test it? We have the cover off the back of the dryer... A picture of where to put the probes would be helpful. Also, can I purchase a new lint screen? Mine is all bent up and ripped.