What a difference a day makes. Only last evening we were enjoying the quiet serenity of a sundown on the pedestrian bridge, which crosses the Missouri at Fort Benton. After Jeff stopped by the statue of Shep, the “forever faithful” dog, to pay his respects, we ambled back to the Grand Union hotel. Suddenly, a strong wind gusted down Front Street and the lights in the hotel went dark. The owner attributed it to a lightening strike. A major weather front is coming and with it high winds and a lot of rain. Electricity is off and on through the overnight hours.

Morning dawns with leaden clouds and a light drizzle. We don rain gear and head our mounts south. Some 40 minutes later we reach Great Falls, MT, where Lewis and Clark spent several days portaging their boats, supplies, and equipment over several miles in 1805. The most distinguishing feature in this historic location today, however, is the refinery in the middle of town.

Not having sufficient time in our schedule to follow the Missouri to its headwaters at Three Forks, MT, we head west on Route 200 for Missoula, MT. We ride into the foothills of the Rockies and then on higher into the mountains themselves. The rain is intensifying and visibility is declining. Because Jeff and I had a hydroplaning incident with the Can-Ams a few days ago, we throttle back our speed. The temperature is down to a wet and soggy 50 degrees at the Continental Divide. Descending on the western side, we see clearing skies; the rain finally stops. We’re surrounded by pine trees and mountain peaks reaching skyward in a gorgeous alpine landscape. The Clark Fork River leads us on a serpentine path to our day’s place of rest in Missoula, MT.