Tuesday, 5 September 2017

Hello Rainbow CAL-ers and welcome to the 9th and FINAL part of the Over the Rainbow Blanketj-CAL which I am hosting alongside Andrea of Kokopelli (Link to Andrea's Post: PART 9)This week we will be crocheting a neat little border around our blankets.

NOTE: Links to all CAL-related posts can be found in the "Files" on the Zooty Owl Crochet-a-long FACEBOOK GROUP(Please join the Crochet-a-long Facebook Group if you are participating in my CALS. Share your photos, ask questions, help fellow CAL-ers and make some new crochet friends!)It is not too late to join in - the patterns will remain on my blog.Happy hooking!!!BORDER AND EDGINGPATTERN TERMS: USYARN: Elle Charity Chunky (12 ply). Stylecraft Special Chunky is an excellent quality / great value alternative yarn.HOOK SIZE: 5.50mm (I/9 US or 5 CANADIAN)ZOOTY’S TIP: I use a hook 1 size smaller (5.00mm; H/8 US or 6 CANADIAN) to work my border and edging. Individual tension may affect the “straightness” of the border. NOTE: Gauge is not too important with this project. Yarn thicknesses vary somewhat from brand to brand as do the tensions of individual crocheters. The most important thing is that your tension remains even throughout the project.COLOURWAY: Each crocheter may choose his / her own colour layout - colour changes / breaks are suggestions only.Border and Edging is worked on the RS of your work.IMPORTANT: Read through pattern before starting to crochet. SPECIAL STITCHES:Rsc - reverse single crochet or Crab stitch: with right side facing, insert the hook, from front to back, in the next stitch to the right, grab yarn and draw through under the first loop, yo and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hookDc Spike – double crochet spike "Explanation and How to"STITCH COUNTSTo obtain a straight border each corner space counts as 1 stitch. Each join counts as 1 stitch.It is essential that you have an even number stitch count at the end of Border Round 1.Stitch counts must match for the right side and left side. Stitch counts must match for the top and the bottom.After you have worked the border along the top of the blanket, lay your work flat. If you have any “wave” you will need to reduce your stitch count (remove an even number of stitches by removing evenly spaced stitches worked into joins). If you find your work is “puckering” you will need to increase your stitch count (increase by an even number of stitches by working an additional stitch into evenly spaced joins).Make sure you duplicate any increase or decrease of sts when working along the bottom of the blanket, as top and bottom stitch count should be the same.Repeat the process after you have worked along the left side of the blanket. Make sure you duplicate any increase or decrease along the right side of the blanket, as stitch count for each side should be the same.Round 1: With RS facing, work a standing dc into the top right hand corner 2ch of the blanket, work (1dc, 2ch, 2dc) into same 2ch sp, working along the top of the blanket, first square 1dc into every st, 1dc into corner, vertical stripes, 1dc around post of sc row, *2 dc around next dc post, 1 around next dc post* rep from *to* around posts of all edge stitches ending with 1dc in last row, 1trc into loop of join, second square 1dc into corner, 1dc into every st, 1dc into corner, 1trc into loop of join, center panel, 1dc into each stitch, 1trc into loop of join, third square, 1dc into corner, 1dc into each st, 1dc in corner, 1trc into loop of join;vertical stripe: **1dc around post of first row, 2dc around post of next row** repeat from **to** around posts of the rest of the edge stitches, ending with 2dc around post of last dc row, 1 dc around post of sc row, last square, 1dc in corner, 1dc in each st across to the top left hand corner (2dc, 2ch, 2dc).Continue down left side of the blanket, work 1dc into the top of each st, when you reach a corner on a square 1dc into corner, 1trc into loop of join, 1dc into corner on next square. Repeat across all squares. (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) into bottom left hand corner.Work along the bottom repeating instructions as for top.Work up right side repeating instructions as for left side and end with a sl st into standing dc, fasten off.Round 2: Work a standing dc into any dc on any side. 1dc into each dc along all four sides; (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) into each 2ch corner. Ending with a sl st into standing dc. Fasten off yarn.Round 3: Work a standing dc in top right hand corner 2ch; (1dc, 2ch, 2dc) into same 2ch, *skip 1sp, 2dc into next sp (you are skipping 2dc each time)* repeat *to* to next 2ch corner (2dc, 2ch, 2dc). Repeat along all four sides ending with a sl st into standing dc. Fasten off yarn.Note: all 1dc spike in Round 4 are worked into corner 2ch and spaces of Round 2

Round 4:. Work a standing dc in top right hand corner 2ch sp. (1dc spike, 2ch, 1dc spike) into corner 2ch of Round 2, 1dc into corner 2ch *skip 2dc, 1dc into space between 2dc group, 1dc spike into sp between dc of Round 2* repeat *to* to next corner, 1dc into 2ch corner, (1dc spike, 2ch, 1dc spike) into corner space of Round 2, 1dc into 2ch corner. Repeat along all four sides omiting last corner. Sl st into standing dc. Fasten off yarn.Round 5: Join yarn in any dc, ch 1, work a rsc into each dc. Into each corner 2ch space work 3rsc. Sl st into first rsc. Fasten off yarn.

I replaced the Some Days Are Diamonds squares with 4 round traditional granny squares; the Bring Me Flowers Squares with 4 round solid grannies; and the Over the Rainbow squares with large granny squares.

As long as the replacement squares are the same size and have the same end stitch count it is very easy to fit them into the design.

Part 8 is the penultimate instalment of the Rainbows After the Rain Blanket CAL. This week we will be completing the centre panel (Over the Rainbow Squares and stripes) and joining all the panels together.

NOTE: Gauge is not too important with this project. Yarn thicknesses vary somewhat from brand to brand as do the tensions of individual crocheters. The most important thing is that your tension remains even throughout the project.

COLOURWAY: Each crocheter may choose his / her own colour layout - colour changes / breaks are suggestions only.

STRIPES are worked alternating right side and wrong side of your work.

IMPORTANT: Read through pattern before starting to crochet.

Step 1:

Following the Rainbows After the Rain Blanket Layout decide on the placement of your two Over the Rainbow Squares. We will refer to the two squares as “top square” (TS) and “bottom square” (BS). This distinction is particularly important where you have a specific colour placement.

2 sets of stripes are crocheted onto each Over the Rainbow Square, giving you two short panels which are then joined together to form the centre panel.

Onto the top and bottom of each square work Rows 1 to 8 in your own colourway

Row 1: Join yarn in 2ch corner of WS with a standing dc. 1dc into each of next 37sts; 1dc into corner 2ch. Fasten off. Turn work

Stitch Count: 39dc

Row 2: Join yarn in 1st dc on RS with a standing dc. 1dc into each of next 38sts. Fasten off. Turn work.

Rows 3 – 8: Repeat Row 2 (continuing to alternate between RS and WS).

NOTE: If you are not changing colour do not fasten off but use 3ch to count as 1st dc at beg of next row

Step 2:

JOINING: We will be using my VISIBLE JOIN METHOD which is explained in more detail HERE. The VISIBLE JOIN is a very forgiving joining method, which gives you a pretty “stitched” look on the right side of your work. (This join is especially useful when joining squares with uneven stitch counts or for crocheters with uneven tension).

With RS of panels facing inward and working on WS join Row 8 of top stripe of BS to Row 8 of bottom stripe of TS (i.e join the middle stripes)

Join yarn with a standing sc through the first dc of both panels. 3ch; skip next 2dc, 1sc into next sp between dc, 3ch; *skip 3dc posts, 1sc into next sp between dc, 3ch* repeat *to* 10 times more; skip 2dc, working final sc into last dc of both panels of 8th row.

Step 3:

It is important to ensure that your centre panel lines up exactly as follows:

1st 8 horizontal stripes – line up with 1st 10cm square

Over the Rainbow Square (BS) – lines up with 10cm squares 2, 3 and 4

8 top horizontal stripes on BS – line up with 10cm square 5

8 bottom horizontal stripes on TS – line up with 10cm square 6

Over the Rainbow Square (TS) – lines up with 10cm squares 7, 8 and 9

Last 8 horizontal stripes – line up with 10cm square 10.

To obtain a stitch count equal to that of the side panels, we will crochet a single crochet foundation row along both sides of the centre panel.

NOTE: In the foundation row as well as working into the sts of the “Over the Rainbow Squares” you will also be working along the sides of the horizontal stripes panels. The sc will be worked around the “dc post” stitches at the end of each row.

With RS of panels facing inward join the Some Days are Diamonds Panel to the centre panel, Join yarn in 1st sc of foundation row with a standing sc through both panels. *2ch; skip next sc, 1sc into next sc* repeat *to* to end, working final sc into last sc of foundation row.

Step 5:

With RS of panels facing inward join the Bring Me Flowers Panel to the centre panel, Join yarn in 1st sc of foundation row with a standing sc through both panels. *2ch; skip next sc, 1sc into next sc* repeat *to* to end, working final sc into last sc of foundation row.

Step 6:

With RS of Panels facing inward join the foundation row of the Vertical Granny Strip to the foundation row of the Some Days Are Diamonds strip. Join yarn in 1st sc of foundation row with a standing sc through both panels. *2ch; skip next sc, 1sc into next sc* repeat *to* to end, working final sc into last sc of foundation row.

Step 7:

With RS of Panels facing inward join the foundation row of the Vertical Cobbled Pathways Stripe to the foundation row of the Bring Me Flowers strip. Join yarn in 1st sc of foundation row with a standing sc through both panels. *2ch; skip next sc, 1sc into next sc* repeat *to* to end, working final sc into last sc of foundation row.

For Part 3 of the RAINBOWS AFTER THE RAIN CAL (Poncho & Blanket) we will be making OVER THE RAINBOW SQUARES

"Take a little time babySee the butterflies' colorsListen to the birds that were sentTo sing for me and youCan you feel meThis is such a wonderful place to beEven if there is pain nowEverything would be all rightFor as long as the world still turnsThere will be night and dayCan you hear meThere's a rainbow always after the rain"
South Border "Rainbow"

*************************************

The OVER THE RAINBOW SQUARE is exactly the same for both the Blanket and the Poncho - 30cm x 30cm.

SQUARE SIZE: The Layout Measurement of 30cm x 30cm (12 inches x 12 inches) for this square is based on the above yarn and hook size. This measurement is also based on the Designer’s tension. You may need to adjust your hook size up if you hook tightly or down if you hook loosely

NOTE: The size of your square will depend on your choice of yarn thickness and hook size. Should you choose to work exactly according to the RAINBOWS AFTER THE RAIN BLANKET or PONCHO layout, simply repeat the final round of the pattern until the square measures 30cm x 30cm (12 inches x 12 inches). Gauge is not too important with this project. Yarn thicknesses vary somewhat from brand to brand as do the tensions of individual crocheters. The most important thing is that your tension remains even throughout the project.

COLOURWAY: Each crocheter may choose his / her own colour layout - colour changes / breaks are suggestions only.

SQUARES are worked in the round with Right Side Facing throughout.

IMPORTANT: Read through pattern before starting to crochet.

Foundation: Make a MAGIC RING or crochet 3ch, sl st into 3rd chain from hook to form a ring

Round 5: Join yarn in middle space between the 2dc of any group. 3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same sp as join, 1fpdc around next fpdc, 2ch; *1fpdc around fpdc of next group, 3dc into space between 2dc, 1fpdc around next fpdc, 2ch* repeat *to* 10 times more; 1fpdc around fpdc of beginning group. Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close. Break off yarn.
Stitch count: 12 x (1fpdc, 3dc, 1fpdc) groups and 12 x 2ch spaces.

Round 7: Join yarn in the middle sp of the 4dc of any group. 3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same sp as join, 1fpdc around next fpdc, 2ch; *1fpdc around fpdc of next group, 5dc into centre sp of next 4dc, 1fpdc around next fpdc, 2ch* repeat *to* 10 times more; 1fpdc around fpdc of beginning group. Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close. Break off yarn.
Stitch count: 12 x (1fpdc, 5dc, 1fpdc) groups and 12 x 2ch spaces.

Round 8: Join yarn in 3rd dc of any group. 3ch (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same dc as join, 1fpdc around fpdc, 2ch; *1fpdc around fpdc of next group, 6dc into 3rd of 5dc, 1fpdc around next fpdc, 2ch* repeat *to* 10 times more; 1fpdc around fpdc of beginning group. Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close. Break off yarn.
Stitch count: 12 x (1fpdc, 6dc, 1fpdc) groups and 12 x 2ch spaces.

Round 10: Join yarn in 1st dc of any 6dc group. 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into each of next 2dc, 1ch, 1dc into each of next 3dc, 1fpdc around fpdc, 2ch; *1fpdc around fpdc of next group, 1dc into each of next 3dc, 1ch, 1dc into each of next 3dc, 1fpdc around next fpdc, 2ch* repeat *to* 10 times more; 1fpdc around fpdc of beginning group. Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close. Break off yarn.
Stitch count: 12 x (1fpdc, 3dc, 1ch, 3dc, 1fpdc) groups and 12 x 2ch spaces

Round 13: Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp. 3ch (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same 3ch sp as join; *(2dc into next 2ch sp) x2, (3hdc into next 2ch sp) x2; (3sc into next 2ch sp) x3; (3hdc into next 2ch sp) x2; (2dc into next 2ch sp) x2; 5dc into 3ch corner sp* repeat *to* three times more omitting the last 5dc on last repeat. Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close. Break off yarn.
Stitch count: 5dc in each corner. 29sts (8dc, 12hdc and 9sc) on each side.

Round 14: Join yarn in 3rd dc of corner 5dc, 3ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc, 2ch, 2dc into same dc, *1dc into each of next 33sts, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) into next dc, corner made* repeat *to* 3 times more omitting corner at the end of last repeat. Sl st into 3rd of beginning ch to close. Break off yarn.
Stitch count: (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in each corner. 33dc on each side.

Tuesday, 16 May 2017

Hello lovely crocheters and welcome (at long last!) to the Kick Off of our Rainbows After the Rain (RAR) CAL, which I will be hosting along with Andrea of KOKOPELLI DESIGN!
If you have already been following along you can launch right in to this post. If you are new to the CAL please read my INTRODUCTION POST first.

For Part 1 of the CAL (Poncho & Blanket) we will be making TRADITIONAL GRANNY SQUARES.

There was a picture in my head of the gorgeous photos I would take for this post........ and then it started raining and raining and raining
(for close onto a week now!) ...... and no rainbow in sight! So we
will just have to make do with the not-so-great photos previously taken.

Pinks and Greens are an all-time favourite combination of mine, and the neon(y) shades available in the Charity Chunky were perfect for the bright and cheerful "Neonmelon" Blanket

Some Woodstock photos doing the rounds on the internet really inspired me to achieve a sort of "hippie rainbow" look with the blanket and poncho. I loved tie-dying (just about every) t-shirts and cloths when I had a big outdoor craft space and a much stronger back and hands!. I also did a lot of Batik work and so the colours and design for the circular parts were a bit of a swirl of ideas from cloths and wall hangings made in my really colourful younger years!
To get the tie-dye look is just a little trick of alternating lights, brights and neutrals. Think of the neutrals as the part of the cloth that are tied or waxed so they do not pick up on the dyes.
Also your outer layers of the "scrunch" pick up a heavier dose of dye, and the inner "scrunch" gets a much lighter dose.

The name for the CAL "Rainbows After the Rain" was not chosen lightly. Grief is not something we "decide" to switch off one day, to suddenly become silly happy again. I chatted to fellow Blogstar Phil of THE TWISTED YARN about my apprehension that this title would give the impression that grief should somehow be measured and dealt with. This was not just an idle "bloggy" conversation as Phil is actually Dr Phil Saul, an NHS clinical psychologist. Phil kindly offered to put my intentions into words for me (she has a way with words and I knew she would be able to get this across way better than I would!)

This is what she wrote:

"If you’ve been reading here a while, then you’ll remember a previous crochet-a-long (CAL), ‘Wade’s Blanket’, which was named to honour a little boy who fought – and, tragically, lost – a hard battle against childhood leukaemia. That was two years ago. Wade’s family and Zelna’s family are close, and those were dark days, compounded by the loss of Zelna’s mother to motor neurone disease soon afterwards. For Zelna, crochet provided some small comfort through the worst of her grief. Those of you who have lost dear ones will probably be able to relate to the raw agony and rage and confusion of those days.But what happens next? What happens after the early stages of grief – however long they last – have been endured? What happens when you’re ready to move beyond just putting one foot in front of the other, and you begin to lift your eyes from the ground, to look cautiously ahead?That’s what this new CAL is about.Nobody’s saying that grief magically goes away: of course it doesn’t. People often refer instead to making a space in their hearts to accommodate the pain, whilst carrying on. Because ultimately, we do have to carry on.Rainbow After The Rain is about rediscovering hope. It’s about accepting the feeling of the sun’s warmth on one’s skin again, as gaps begin to appear between the rainclouds. It’s about daring to believe that there may be joy and growth ahead. And it’s about giving oneself permission to seek that joy and growth. It’s about finding peace and comfort, and about rediscovering the beauty of the world.What on earth could possibly symbolise all of that better than a rainbow?Each component of this CAL will offer a meditation on healing, with titles such as "Wheel of Time", "Ribbons of Hope" and "Somedays are Diamonds".

How does a Traditional Granny Square fit the theme? There is nothing "uncertain" about a granny square - and the simple reassurance that the square WILL work out no matter what, is a great comfort! The traditional granny square is timeless, like the words of a favourite poem by e.e.cummings:

"- how fortunate are you and I, whose home is timelessness: we who have wandered down from fragrant mountains of eternal now

to frolic in such mysteries as birth
and death a day (or maybe even less)"

*************************************

To avoid confusion the Poncho and Blanket layouts will be published separately. In addition some of the Poncho and Blanket Patterns will be published separately, as there are small variations in the squares.

TRADITIONAL GRANNY SQUARE (make 10)

SQUARE SIZE: The Layout Measurement of 15cm x 15cm (5.9 inches x 5.9 inches) for this square is based on the above yarn and hook size. This measurement is also based on the Designer’s tension. You may need to adjust your hook size up if you hook tightly or down if you hook loosely

NOTE: The size of your square will depend on your choice of yarn thickness and hook size. Should you choose to work exactly according to the RAINBOWS AFTER THE RAIN PONCHO layout, simply repeat the final round of the pattern until the square measures 15cm x 15cm . Gauge is not too important with this poncho. Yarn thicknesses vary somewhat from brand to brand as do the tensions of individual crocheters. The most important thing is that your tension remains even throughout the poncho.COLOURWAY: Each crocheter may choose his / her own colour layout - colour changes / breaks are suggestions only.SQUARES are worked in the round with Right Side Facing throughout.IMPORTANT: Read through pattern before starting to crochet. Foundation: Start with a magic ring; alternatively crochet 3ch; sl st into 3rd chain from hook to form a circleRound 1: 5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch), (3dc into ring, 2ch) 3 times; 2dc into ring; sl st into 3rd of beginning 5ch to close.

Round 4: Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groupings before any corner 3dc. 3ch (counts as 1dc) or crochet a standing dc, 2dc into same space; *(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch; 3dc into each space between 3dc groups to corner* repeat from *to* twice more, (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch, 3dc into space between 3dc groupings; sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row. Break off yarn.

Round 5: Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groupings before any corner 3dc; 3ch (counts as 1dc ) or crochet a standing dc, 2dc into same space; *(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch; 3dc into each space between 3dc groups to next corner* Repeat *to* twice more; (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch; 3dc into each space between 3dc groups to start 3dc group, sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row. Break off yarn.

Round 6: Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groupings before any corner 3dc; 2ch (counts as 1hdc) or crochet a standing hdc, 2hdc into same space; *(3hdc, 2ch, 3hdc) into corner 2ch; 3hdc into each space between 3dc groups to next corner* Repeat *to* twice more; (3hdc, 2ch, 3hdc) into corner 2ch; 3hdc into each space between 3dc groups to beginning 3ch, sl st into 2nd of beginning 2ch to close row. Break off yarn.Stitch count: (3hdc, 2ch, 3hdc) in each corner and 12hdc (4 x 3hdc groupings) each side.

TRADITIONAL GRANNY SQUARE (MAKE 5)

SQUARE SIZE: The Layout Measurement of 20cm x 20cm (7.9inches x 7.9inches) for this square is based on the above yarn and hook size. This measurement is also based on the Designer’s tension. You may need to adjust your hook size up if you hook tightly or down if you hook loosely

NOTE: The size of your square will depend on your choice of yarn thickness and hook size. Should you choose to work exactly according to the RAINBOWS AFTER THE RAIN BLANKET layout, simply repeat the final round of the pattern until the square measures 20cm x 20cm. Gauge is not too important with this blanket. Yarn thicknesses vary somewhat from brand to brand as do the tensions of individual crocheters. The most important thing is that your tension remains even throughout the blanket.

COLOURWAY: Each crocheter may choose his / her own colour layout - colour changes / breaks are suggestions only.

SQUARES are worked in the round with Right Side Facing throughout.

IMPORTANT: Read through pattern before starting to crochet.

Foundation: Start with a magic ring; alternatively crochet 3ch; sl st into 3rd chain from hook to form a circle

Round 4: Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groupings before any corner 3dc. 3ch (counts as 1dc) or crochet a standing dc, 2dc into same space; *(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch; 3dc into each space between 3dc groups to corner* repeat from *to* twice more, (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch, 3dc into space between 3dc groupings; sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row. Break off yarn.

Round 5: Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groupings before any corner 3dc; 3ch (counts as 1dc ) or crochet a standing dc, 2dc into same space; *(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch; 3dc into each space between 3dc groups to next corner* Repeat *to* twice more; (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch; 3dc into each space between 3dc groups to start 3dc group, sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row. Break off yarn.

Round 6: Join yarn with a sl st in space between 3dc groupings before any corner 3dc; 3ch (counts as 1dc ) or crochet a standing dc, 2dc into same space; *(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch; 3dc into each space between 3dc groups to next corner* Repeat *to* twice more; (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch; 3dc into each space between 3dc groups to beginning 3ch, sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close row. Break off yarn

Thursday, 29 September 2016

Hello Seaside CAL-ers!I hurt my elbow a few weeks back and the pain has been getting gradually worse. I have been trying to rest my arm as much as possible - only crocheting for a few minutes at a time, so my carefully planned schedule has taken a bit of a knock! I added a few rows to the Port Shepstone centre to make a matching mandala. The Mandala is not part of the Seaside Winter Blanket and is an optional extra.

PORT SHEPSTONE MANDALA PATTERN:PATTERN TERMS: USFollow the link provided, work up Rounds 1 - 8 of the PORT SHEPSTONE SQUARE and then come back here to complete the mandala.Round 9: Join yarn in any 3ch space. [3ch, 1trc in same sp as join (counts as 2trc tog); (2trc tog, 3ch) x4 (fan); (skip 4sc, 1sc into each of next 5sc, skip 4sc)][2trc tog, (3ch, 2trc tog into same 3ch sp) x4; (skip 4sc, 1sc into each of next 5sc, skip 4sc)] x7. Sl st into top of start 2dc tog to close. Break off yarn.

Round 10: Join yarn in 1st 3ch of any fan. [4hdc into same sp as join; (4hdc into next 3ch sp) x3; 6ch][(4hdc into next 3ch sp) x4; 6ch] x7. Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.

Round 11: Join yarn in 1st hdc on any fan. 2ch (counts as 1hdc); 1hdc into each of next 15hdc; [hold ch to the front of your work, work 1trc into sc behind ch (Round 9); hold ch to the back of your work, work 1trc into sc in front of chain.) x2 hold ch to the front of your work, work 1trc into sc behind ch];{1hdc into each of next 15hdc; [hold ch to the
front of your work, work 1trc into sc behind ch (Round 9); hold ch to
the back of your work, work 1trc into sc in front of chain.) x2 hold
ch to the front of your work, work 1trc into sc behind ch]} x7. Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close.

Row 12: Join yarn in any stitch. Sl st in each stitch around mandala. Sl st in start sl st to close. Or join using the INVISIBLE JOIN

Friday, 23 September 2016

Hello and welcome Seaside CAL-ers! Your blankets are all looking quite spectacular and I know a lot of you are eagerly awaiting the edging! I have provided two slightly different edgings for you to choose from - one a straight lacy edge (Edging A) and the and the other a delicate ruffle (Edging B). (Note: Edging B is a very time consuming, yarn hungry edging.)South Coast Edging:Special Stitch:Picot - 3ch, sl st into 1st chain, continue with next stitch

Friday, 16 September 2016

Hello and welcome Seaside CAL-ers! This week we will be working on Rounds 5 - 8 of the border. The 8 round pattern is "universal" which means that you can repeat it over and over again and your stitch count should remain correct.If you would like a narrow, simple border crochet only the foundation rounds and 1 x the eight round pattern. Should you require a more dramatic border, crochet the foundation rounds and repeat the 8 round pattern twice or more.

SOUTH COAST BORDER (2)PATTERN TERMS: USSPECIAL STITCHESPopcorn Stitch: (Ps) = 3dc then remove the hook from the last loop, insert the hook front to back on the first dc, and again into last loop, yoh and pull throughNote: your start popcorn stitch (SPs) is worked as follows: 3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc then remove the hook from the last loop, insert the hook front to back in the 3rd ch, and again into last loop, yoh and pull throughPattern Round 5: Join yarn in any 3ch corner sp; 3ch (counts as 1sc, 2ch), 1sc into same 3ch sp as join, 2ch; [skip 2dc group, 1sc into sp between 2dc groups; 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp.{(1sc, 2ch, 1sc into 3ch corner sp, 2ch); (skip 2dc group, 1sc into sp between next 2dc groups, 2ch] repeat until you reach next 3ch corner sp} x3. Sl st into 1st of start ch to close. Break off yarn.

Pattern Round 6: Join yarn in corner 2ch sp. (1SPs, 3ch, 1Ps in same 2ch corner sp, 2ch); (1Ps into next 2ch sp, 2ch) repeat to next 2ch corner sp;[(1Ps, 3ch, 1Ps into 2ch corner sp, 2ch); ( 1Ps into next 2ch sp, 2ch) repeat to next 2ch corner sp] x3. Sl st into top of SPs to close. Break off yarnNote: Popcorn stitches are very "yarn greedy". A more yarn economical option is to substitute the Popcorn Stitch with a 2dc tog.

Pattern Round 8: Join yarn in any 2ch corner; [2ch (counts as 1hdc), 1hdc, 3ch, 2hdc into same sp as join]; 2hdc into each 2ch sp until you reach next corner;[(2hdc,3ch, 2hdc into 2ch corner sp); 2hdc into each 2ch sp until you reach next corner] x3. Sl st into 2nd of start ch to close. Break off yarn.

PS:
The official CAL has ended but you can still join in at your leisure.
The links to all the patterns for the CAL can be found in the pinned
post of our Seaside Winter Blanket Group