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2006 TW200. This just started happening. Hit the start button and I hear a click, just one click. Won’t start. Push it and it starts right up. The side panel on rt side where tool bag is has 3 electronic components. When the starter is engaged those 3 click. Occasionally the bike will start also. Any ideas which component to check first.
Thanks.

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1 Corinthians 9:24: Know ye not that they which run in a race run all, but one receiveth the prize? So run, that ye may obtain.
Philippians 3:14: I press toward the mark for the prize of the high calling of God in Christ Jesus.

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Pogino 1 - Your battery is dead. A fully charged battery is 12.6-12.8V, 12V is only about a 40% charge and if it drops to 3V, your battery is dead, and may be toast. Try charging it up, with a real charger, not a battery "tender" or "maintainer". And if you do buy a new battery, especially an AGM , make sure YOU fully charge it first before putting into service or it will suffer a very early premature death.

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I just had that same issue with the BW 350 I was rebuilding. There are a number of electrical relays associated with the starting system but one is usually the culprit. Not usually the starter solenoid but the starter relay. I can't ID it on the TW here since they don't label them the same as on the BW and it is is a different place on the TW. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2000/trailway-tw200m/electrical-1

Here is some very good info on the basic starting system and how to test the relays. The one I found faulty is called the Starting relay cut off here and on the BW it is behind the headlight but on the TW it is in the electrical side box. Same relay for both bikes BTW and available on Ebay for about $8 each rather than the $50-$60 from Yamaha. https://fattireconversions.com/bw350/bw350servicemanual.html#electrical

In the test if you power the posts on the relay and you don't hear the click the relay is shot and no power goes to the solenoid.

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Unlike an automotive Bendix type solenoid the TW's starter relay solenoid is but a simple relay located under the seat. Low current signal from handlebar switch activates electromagnets closing contacts thus sending high current directly to starter motor. Spinning starter motor's centrifugal force then forces gear engagement with engine rather than the electromagnetic force used to deploy starter gear in automotive applications.
Since TWpr413 heard the solenoid contacts close ( the "clicking" noise ) it would seem the relay is working. Like Pogino's situation the OP's problem most likely is inadequate battery power to the starter motor. This may be due to bad battery, poor charge on the battery, poor conductivity at terminals or intervening wiring.
The TW's starter motor brushes are not readily inspectable, nor serviceable elements. If the two starter cover bolts are removed and commutator removed I am not sure if once brushes are accessed and replaced if the whole assembly can be reassembled without a special tool to hold spring loaded brushes in the retracted position while commutator & thrust washers are re-inserted. Not having seen replacement brushes for sale I fear the starter is a non-serviceable item.

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Anyone care to inspect their starter motor and explain to me how to re-install the motor brushes and commutator?

Don't comment unless you have actually done this since these are not built like conventional starter motors one may have experience with. Stories about replacing Bendix-type solenoids or brushes on other equipment have no bearing on the TW's starter motor. They ain't the same critter by any stretch of the imagination.

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Oh, you can take the starter apart no problem, don't even need the hammer Hillary used on her server. Two screws and you're in. It is reassembling the unit without a means of retracting the brushes that is the conundrum I see.

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Oh, you can take the starter apart no problem, don't even need the hammer Hillary used on her server. Two screws and you're in. It is reassembling the unit without a means of retracting the brushes that is the conundrum I see.

YUP! That would be a challenge I would have to work on to figure out how to do it. I am sure you could source new brushes with the springs but for the $50 it costs to buy a new aftermarket starter motor it is not worth the trouble. When I lived up near Rochester NY there was an electric shop that specialized in rebuilding and rewinding motors and armatures. They knew all those tricks and what looked impossible to me was a simple procedure for them.

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It's time Men of God to awake those God Given Gifts He gave you. You are accountable...

1 Corinthians 9:24: Know ye not that they which run in a race run all, but one receiveth the prize? So run, that ye may obtain.
Philippians 3:14: I press toward the mark for the prize of the high calling of God in Christ Jesus.

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Before you go to all these exotic fixes, did you ever check your battery, as is with a load tester? Or ever get it charged up? Ever try hooking a good battery up or jumping it with another battery, like from a non-running car?
Any followup on this part of the question?

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I think it became apparent that the click was simply the starter circuit relay closing and a new battery liked solved the reported issues.
A fresh battery will supply enough power to turn over the much noisier starter motor and engine thus masking the normal to-be-expected noise of the relay closing. The relay should click when it is doing it's job. It's job as a solenoid is simply to power up some low amperage electromagnets that then suck some high amperage contacts closed connecting battery directly to starter motor.

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