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What metal to use for deeps?

I am going to try and build hives over the Winter to use this Spring. I am wondering what kind of metal and what gauge should I use for the 2 inner edges of the deeps that the frames will be set on. The ones that came with the hives I purchased last year are very thin and somewhat bendable. The closest thing I can think of would be thin sheet metal that can be purchased at hardware stores. Sheet metal is quite difficult to bend by hand(hand tools) in a short 1/2 inch width, though. I am hoping that making all my boxes will end up being less expensive than buying it all. Thanks, juzzerbee.

Re: What metal to use for deeps?

I started out with 3 used deeps I purchased. They had the metal frame rests. I read about how those things can harbor SHBs and then I found out that that is dead on correct. I ripped them all out. Trouble was, the rabbett was now too low, so I had to build them up. I found that the wedges from a couple of frames did the trick, being the right thickness to do the buildup. I cut the wedge to length, applied Titebond and stapled that sucker in. Now the SHBs have fewer places to hide. -js

Re: What metal to use for deeps?

You can use them, eventually they tend to give out. You just nail them in place, as SHB are now an issue you may need to fill them with glue before nailing in place. As others have said if you don't install them, the depth of your rebate will be wrong.

Super metal rebates are no longer sold in my country but when they were, you had to specify when you bought the boxes what depth you wanted the rebates. Now they've just slowly lost favor till nobody makes them any more, you can't buy them, which is probably a good thing.

Re: What metal to use for deeps?

A positive comment seems appropriate amongst all these bitter old men who seem to be filled with hate against innocent little strips of bent metal.
I use the 90 degree shaped ones that do not leave a space for SHB like the ones with the bent up support used on deeper rebates. They certainly are not necessary but maybe make the frames a bit easier to break loose rather than wood propolised to wood. Be sure to nail them on the vertical side so that there are not brad heads to interfere with rabbit edge scraping.

And yes, the INSIDE of the box is painted, I used good for the rest of my life redwood siding that was painted white, I wanted natural wood boxes so I turned the paint inside.

Re: What metal to use for deeps?

Re: What metal to use for deeps?

Dadant also has both the new version, "L" profile, and the older style with the raised edge for the frames to "rest" on - "T" profile. I personally prefer the old style and though I haven't yet had to deal with SHB, I find that bees have no difficulty crawling through the channel thus formed (I believe 1/4" x 1/4" or 5/16" x 5/16" - but I haven't measured it, yet) they create under the frame ends, so I have been wondering if that might be where the bees have confined them, then when we beekeepers move the frames, we are releasing those SHBs that were intentionally trapped there. Perhaps there is a way to take advantage of this habit of the SHB to take refuge in this area, maybe a small slot through the rabbet (rebate), to the outside, where a trap could be mounted to collect the fleeing SHB, and screened to preclude the entry of bees.

Re: What metal to use for deeps?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051if you want to make the 90 degree angle like odfrank has in the pic. buy a folding tool used for sheet metal duct work. home depot has them they have an end that is 3/8 all you do is slip the sheet metal into the grove and bend.
the one that home depot has is only 12" but should work just let a little stick out each side. you can get longer ones but you will have to go to an HVAC supplier or order online. I would not cut your strip untill you bend your 3/8 lip than just cut the strip from the sheet letting 3/4" or so to nail the frame rest to the super

Re: What metal to use for deeps?

I would buy them from Kelley's or Brushy Mountain (I think I saw some in their catalog, not sure) -- cheaper and easier than making them.

The old "L" rabbet leaves a bee space under the frame, but that's not where the SHB hide in my hives -- they live in the space between the end of the frame and the box. I squish them with my hive tool when I can, but when I checked the sticky boards under my SBBs last week, there were a lot of dead ones, they must have frozen to death when it got cold.

The difference between "rebate" and "rabbet" is which side of the Atlantic Ocean you are on -- the original British term was (and is) "rebate", it became "rabbet" in American some time in the late 1700's so far as I can tell.

I keep planning to get metal frame rests and forget to order them -- so far hasn't made much of a difference, I suppose, but it might be easier to scrape the propolis off the rabbet if it's metal than if it's wood, particularly if the tool used is too sharp and digs into the wood.