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It’s a heck of a way to run a pre-election campaign. On the eve of an expected election, politicians usually spend their time playing up good news, downplaying the bad, shaking hands and kissing babies.

The hips don't lie: The history of Hawaii is told in the hula dancers’ moves

Keiki girls dancing hula in Hawaii.

Photograph by: Handout photo
, Hawaii Visitors & Convention Bureau

A traveller’s first encounter with the hula is usually an awkward one.

It generally involves a visit to Hawaii, a mai tai or two, and the coaxing of friends to jump on stage at a luau and “shake what your mother gave you.”

Your Hawaiian hosts will be generous in instruction and praise, but as a rule creaky Canadian hips just don’t swivel convincingly.

Not to worry, however. It's all part of the fun when you travel to Hawaii and begin exploring the culture of this Eden-like archipelago.

The hula is more than a dance, after all. It's an integral part of Hawaiian culture, history and storytelling.

If dance is the hidden language of the soul, as the legendary choreographer Martha Graham once said, then hula may tell some of history’s most extraordinary stories.

“Some people look at hula as just entertainment, and sometimes it is,” says Cy Bridges, a noted Hawaiian hula and culture expert.

“But at times it tells the great history of a race of people,” Bridges said. “The hula was really our hard drive — our textbook. Everything was committed to memory, because there was no written language; so we chanted, sang and danced about our lives.”

Centuries ago, Hawaiian boys and girls were chosen to dedicate their lives to hula. They were taught the physical and spiritual components of the dance, securing important positions in society.

But as American missionaries began arriving in the 1800s, the dance was declared a heathen practice and hula went underground.

It continued to be performed in secret until a new King, David Kalakaua, came to power in 1874. He led a resurgence of traditional performing arts, and the dance regained its rightful place in Hawaiian society.

Today, the hula remains a tribute to the culture of Hawaii and a wonderful doorway through which visitors can begin to understand this tropical destination.

OAHU

For many travellers, a trip to Hawaii starts on the island of Oahu, known as “the Gathering Place,” and a good place to begin to understand Hawaiian culture is the island’s Polynesian Cultural Center.

On its 17-hectare site, the centre showcases seven Pacific Island villages where visitors participate in crafts, culture and arts. A luau, canoe pageant and hula show are among the highlights.

The story of the hula is woven through many other Oahu attractions, such as the Hawaii State Museum, where art inspired by the dance and other Hawaiian culture is displayed. Also worth a visit is the Iolani Palace, the only royal palace in the United States.

A trip to Hawaii inevitably means taking a trip to the beach — and with 125 beaches on the island, there's a stretch of sand for everybody. Daredevils can brave the nine-metre waves on the North Shore while the rest of us enjoy the gently breaking surf of Waikiki.

Swimming, surfing and snorkelling are sure to work up a visitor's appetite, and the island’s diverse ethnic makeup is mirrored in the local cuisine.

As the population has grown, so have the culinary options. One former island food writer takes guests on regular culinary adventures via a tour company called Hawaii Food Tours. Participants might find themselves chowing down anywhere from a local hole-in-the-wall to an elegant restaurant.

MAUI

Beautiful Maui, known as The Valley Isle, boasts some of Hawaii’s best views.

One of the most popular looks onto the world's largest dormant volcano, Haleakala. A sunrise walk at the volcano is unforgettable. Mark Twain said of the experience: “It was the sublimest spectacle I ever witnessed, and I think the memory of it will remain with me always.”

Another memorable attraction is the Hana Highway, also known as the Road to Hana, one of the most famous drives in the world. With more than 50 narrow bridges and 600 hairpin turns, this 68-kilometre slow-going road provides breathtaking views at every corner.

It's a bit tricky to navigate, but provides drivers with plenty of time to stop and smell the lokelani roses, Maui's official flower.

After completing this all-day journey, you'll understand the slogan emblazoned on local T-shirts: “I Survived the Road to Hana.”

Another must-see stop is Iao Valley State Park. Lush vegetation, natural gardens and picture-perfect waterfalls are everywhere, not surprisingly, since the area gets almost 900 centimetres of rain every year.

It's hard to imagine this peaceful park was a battleground in the late 1700s when a monarch attempted to gain control of the area and unite the islands of Hawaii. A magnificent volcanic monolith, known as the Iao Needle, was once a lookout for ancient warriors.

The art of hula is showcased and celebrated across Maui. One of the slickest shows, combing hula and a variety of other forms of dance, is Ulalena at Maui Theatre. The Maui Arts & Cultural Center often hosts international and local hula competitions, along with art exhibits, dance shows and Hawaiian storytelling workshops.

Hula embodies this island's history. And, as King Kalakaua said while encouraging the re-emergence of the dance more than a century ago: “Hula is the heartbeat of the Hawaiian people.”

IF YOU GO

OAHU

Eat: Try a famous plate lunch at Grace's Inn, where the teriyaki beef reigns supreme. For traditional island cuisine, Ono Hawaiian Food is one of the best places to indulge in lomi lomi salmon, poi and pipikaula (seasoned beef jerky.) For a regal feast, don't miss the luau at The Royal Hawaiian.

Drink: Sip a mai tai at Sunset Lanai, a lounge not far from Diamond Head, the famous landmark towering over Honolulu, or relax with cocktails and jazz at thirtyninehotel. During the day, thirtyninehotel is an art gallery, but at night it turns into a club, home to some of the state's smoothest jazz musicians.

Hula: A popular choice for locals and visitors as the sun sets is House Without A Key, where former Miss Hawaiis and hula experts perform the dance. Any luau across the island will let you take in some dancing and traditional food.

MAUI

Eat: Restaurant choices abound on Maui, with many offering first-rate food and exceptional views. Sample the grilled ahi tuna with foie gras and rhubarb cherry sauce at The Banyan Tree. Savour the Kahuku corn crab cakes at the Hula Grill. Or for the freshest fish on the island, visit Mama's Fish House.

Love: Maui is a popular destination for weddings and honeymoons, so there's no shortage of romantic pursuits. Take a sunset dinner sail; indulge in a helicopter ride over stunning sea cliffs. And if you want to get really romantic, learn to say “I love you” in Hawaiian: “Aloha au ia 'oe.”

Hula: If you're looking for a free nightly hula show, listen for the sound of the conch shell at the Kaanapali Beach Hotel. Old Lahaina Luau is another place to see authentic performances of the dance. And for a change of pace, hula is combined with magic to tell the story of island legends at Kupanaha: Magic Show Dinner Theater.

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