Saturday, February 25, 2012

Birchbox is a tiny bundle of monthly love made with beauty junkies in mind. For $10 a month you receive a package filled with 4-5 samples, many of which are deluxe size, with the occasional full-size product thrown in. Deluxe size samples are plenty big enough get a good feel for the instant effects, but maybe not quite enough to judge long-term results. Instant reviews are just that- my instant impressions on the products. These installments will be based on my initial testing, swatching and, of course (you know me) a peek at the ingredients.

Birchbox says: Behold this unisex moisturizer, a favorite of hip Parisian girls and guys, which hasn’t been available stateside until now. Beyond its intense moisturizing powers, the creamy formula also regulates skin’s oil levels with a botanical brigade. Blueberry and white dead-nettle purify skin, while jasmine, burdock, and mandarin reduce breakouts and redness. The light, refreshing scent was designed with both genders in mind.

I say:
Claims like "mattifying", "break-out reducing" and "oil regulating" had me skeptical that this would work for my super-dry skin, but I was pleasantly surprised when I tested this. My skin was indeed soft and matte after applying G-1 cream, though since I don't have shine issues throughout the day, I can't speak to the moisturizer's abilities keep skin oil-free through the day.

The botanicals check out too. There are plenty of antioxidants in here along with soothing anti-inflammatory ingredients. I do find it odd that mandarin and jasmine are listed as redness reducers. It's true that both oils have antibacterial properties that could be helpful in controlling acne, but they're also both considered skin irritants. Benta Berry seems to have a wallop of anti-irritants that may well balance out that risk, but I still find it strange that they claim that the very ingredients that could cause redness would reduce it.

I also find it worth mentioning that G-1 cream includes coconut oil. Coconut oil is a good skin identical emollient, but as a stand-alone ingredient, it is generally considered highly comedogenic. Of course, just because it has the potential to clog pores doesn't mean it will, but it's still something to be aware of if you're acne prone.

Birchbox says:A spicy blend that will set you apart from the sweet-smelling masses. Top and middle notes of incense and musk create an alluring, cosmopolitan aura, while a base note of cedarwood adds a layer of depth. Finally, a touch of black pepper gives the scent a spicy kick.

I say:
My first thought? "Why did they send me a men's fragrance?" Spicy blend indeed- but not in a rich, oriental way. As you may be able to guess looking at the fragrance notes, there's nothing soft or girly about this scent. The musk top note is easy to lose among the other woody, spicy notes, but the incense stands out to me as the defining note of the fragrance. We're not talking about Nag Champa here, to me it reads as a resinous church-y kind of smell. Reinforced with the cedarwood base note, it turns downright piney.

Fancy NYC address notwithstanding, I think BLK DNM misses the mark. The notes are all so similar that there's really no complexity to the scent (though oddly, it does smell a bit like pickles on me. Not intentional, I'm guessing!) A big "skip" in my book.

Birchbox says:Shaky wrists and runny liquid formulas conspire to drain our time and energy, which is why we’re glad we discovered these handy stick-on appliques...super easy to apply and help you create an array of eye-catching looks. Unlike traditional liners, they won’t smudge or fade.

I say:
When I opened my Birchbox this month, these were the things that I was most excited about. The Birchbox website had a handy little video on how to apply them, which I thought was nice, but right off the bat the instructor said something that gave me pause: "before you get started, make sure that you don't have any makeup or oil on your eyelid". Hmmm...that means these either have to be worn with a bare lid, severely limiting the looks you can create with them, or makeup would need to be applied after the liner strips- potentially messing them up.

On the Birchbox website, I also noticed this little blurb:
"For extra staying power, dab a bit of lash glue onto the back of these stick-on liner strips."
OK, now I might have to apply glue to self-adhesive strips? Not exactly confidence inspiring.

When I opened the package, I was let down once again. While the edges of the liner are nice and crisp, the paper the strips are printed on is softly textured (it seems very similar to medical tape). Because of this, the printing of the liners is not solid black- on the sheet, they read as a speckled heather grey.

Eye Rock Designer Liner, close-up

Caveats aside, I'm still looking forward to trying Eye Rock liners. I'm a long-time fan of the cat-eye, and funky liner was once my signature style, so these are right down my alley. FYI, Rock Cosmetics Designer Liner come in two varieties- mine is the "Classics" set, but a wilder "Trends" set is also available. I'm also eyeing the company's supercool eye tattoos!

Birchbox says:Our entire team (minus the manfolk) is obsessed with Jouer’s Luminizing Moisture Tint and we're not alone — Allure recently gave the product its coveted "Best in Beauty" seal. The oil-free formula feels positively weightless on but gives you plenty of even coverage. Skin looks soft and dewy and, thanks to SPF 20, you’ll be extra protected from the sun.

I say:
Gosh, I just hate to be such a big grump, but I just can't imagine why this is on any "best of list". Maybe my BB Cream has me spoiled, but in my opinion, the claims on this are definitely stretching it. I will say it feels weightless on the skin, but I beg to differ on the "plenty of coverage" front- Jouer Luminizing Moisture Tint is definitely sheer and gives little to no coverage for redness or imperfections. I'd also say that Birchbox should exchange the word "dewy" for the word "shimmery". To me, "dewy" implies a moist, cream based tint, rather than the visible particles of pearl or shimmer that you see with this product.

Shimmer is always tough to photograph, but it's definitely there- even my fiancé noticed! One thing you can easily see in the photos is that the color was definitely a no-go for me. I received Pearl, which is the second lightest of the six shades Jouer offers (Opal, the fairest shade, is new and is currently only available directly from Jouer).

Birchbox says:We brush our teeth twice a day without fail, but we always find ourselves in a bit of a bind right after snacks and meals. Since our penchant for noshing shows no signs of abating, we freshen our breath with these convenient mouthwash packets. They’re filled with a proprietary powder that neutralizes odors while gently removing surface stains—just add water to the pouch to create a single-dose rinse.

I say:
Rip open the packet, add water & swish? Sounds good to me- and perfect to throw into your purse for after coffee breaks! As promised, the rinse freshened my breath without any stinging, and left a pleasant but not over-powering minty flavor behind.

I do have one tip. When I used my first packet, I opened it and immediately filled it to the top with water, forgetting to leave myself enough room to mix the powder around a bit in the envelope. I found it worked better to initially only add enough water to fill the packet less than half way. After I squished and swirled the water around a bit to mix up the powder I filled the rest of the packet and rinsed.

TOTAL FEBRUARY BOX VALUE: $20.05

In addition to my regular subscription, I was also lucky enough to get a special Vichy edition Birchbox for no additional charge this month. I've been curious about the brand for a while, and I though the box would be a great introduction. Stay tuned for my instant reviews on this special box, and make sure you comment below and let me know what you got in your box and what you think about it!

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

You may have heard it on your local nightly news, or spied the article on CBS News or in the Washington Post. Lead found in 400 shades from popular lipstick brands! "Poisonous Puckers" they scream, leading millions of people to wonder: "Am I killing myself in the interest of a perfect pout?" Well, unless you've recently been featured on the show "My Strange Addiction", probably not.

The lead on lead is a typical "scare tactic" story that has been going around for years. In the 1980s and 90s, news was made when a supposed copy of a lab test was leaked, revealing the presence of lead in a commercial lipstick. The issue cropped up again in 2007 when a report from The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics prompted an FDA investigation. Stories like this make great headlines and nice teaser stories to get people to tune in to the nightly news cast, but sadly, they only hold a kernel of real journalism.

In fact, FDA findings show that trace levels of lead found in the tested lipsticks "do not show levels of lead in lipstick that would pose a safety concern." It's important to note: no one is adding lead to their lipstick formulations. The lead detected in the samples are trace impurities from some of the minerals used to make pigments (these pigments, by the way, are the exact same ones used by mineral, natural and indie formulators. Thus, these companies are just as likely to contain traces of lead as the larger brands tested).

The truth is, the lead levels in lipsticks are FAR below safe levels. The average of the lipsticks tested contained 1.11 parts per million (ppm). The sample that tested the highest (Maybelline Color Sensational in Pink Petal, in case you're wondering) rang in at 7.19 ppm. To put this in perspective, children’s products in the U.S. are allowed to contain up to 100 ppm of lead. Anyone who has had a toddler knows how often their toys are in their mouths! Even more telling? According to cosmetic scientist Dene Godfrey, drinking just under one cup of water could expose you to over 400 times more lead than your lipstick!

Of course, it would seem like any exposure to a dangerous chemical should be avoided, but we are talking about an element that occurs naturally in our ecosystem; exposure is simply unavoidable. I can't say it any more clearly than the FDA:

"Is there a safety concern about the lead levels FDA found in lipsticks?

No. We have assessed the potential for harm to consumers from use of lipstick containing lead at the levels found in both rounds of testing. Lipstick, as a product intended for topical use with limited absorption, is ingested only in very small quantities. We do not consider the lead levels we found in the lipsticks to be a safety concern. The lead levels we found are within the limits recommended by other public health authorities for lead in cosmetics, including lipstick."

And I Am...?

Homebase is Cincinnati, OH, and yes, I'm proud to be an Ohio girl! I love the fact that there's a Saks and Tiffany & Co. downtown, but I can drive 15 minutes and see a cornfield! I've been a makeup artist and skin care buff for almost 20 years, in just about every realm of the business you can be in- I've worked retail, managed & trained for major companies, done makeup for theatre, advertising, weddings; you name it! I'm married to the love of my life, soul mate, high-school sweetheart, life partner and other half, Brad, and we have an incredible 7-year-old daughter. I spend most of my time raising my baby (girl scout leader, school-helper, crafting and party planner extraordinaire !)