nice simple setup that hasnt been riced out! Personally I love the DEP (what I have) and it fits with my cars name lol. H23a is a great swap if you are seriously considering it. I had a non vtec H23a1 that exploded 2 months ago and have since upgraded to an F20b. Pretty much anything you choose to swap in will be a lot more fun than the F23 . I still think the F23 is the most reliable engine honda has ever made. I would still have mine but after I converted the car to manual I went crazy and missed 4th and went back to second. The car still ran strong for about 6 months after that and I beat on it. Eventually it spun a bearing and was probably salvageable but I needed an excuse to do a swap lol. Anyways congrats on the pickup and good luck with the build.

So i was teaching my wife how to drive at high rpms...(bounce off redline 2x before shift )....(she always shift before VTEC engagement)its drives me insain...... Family and friends tell me.......(She drives like you) I just never seen it.......Back on topic......4500rpm....... go for it bae dont shift please......5800rpm.....6200rpm.......check engine light......I knew she spun bearing......but I must keep a str8 face.......babe pull over let me see why the check engine light on.......long story short.....spun bearing F23a 216xxx.....
so swap coming soon.......just when I had faith in her......(it was my fault I know) (Race it..Break it.... Build it) Its a lifestyle some just won't understand.....

I tried to teach my girlfriend how to drive my car. She did pretty good but we never made it to second and we never left the parking lot lol. Next up was my friend. He stalled so hard he actually broke my old oem exhaust . I missed 4th and went to second at about 100 and my motor still lasted another abusive 6 months. Im surprised yours died so easily. It must have had it though. Unless you put those miles on the car its hard to tell if the previous owner ran it without oil a few times or no oil at all for an extended period of time. My experience with Hondas is they perform no matter what unless one of the sensors breaks. Then all hell breaks loose. Sometimes they're pretty backwards lol

I tried to teach my girlfriend how to drive my car. She did pretty good but we never made it to second and we never left the parking lot lol. Next up was my friend. He stalled so hard he actually broke my old oem exhaust . I missed 4th and went to second at about 100 and my motor still lasted another abusive 6 months. Im surprised yours died so easily. It must have had it though. Unless you put those miles on the car its hard to tell if the previous owner ran it without oil a few times or no oil at all for an extended period of time. My experience with Hondas is they perform no matter what unless one of the sensors breaks. Then all hell breaks loose. Sometimes they're pretty backwards lol

First time for her was in the TSX..... License suspended..... inspection up...... and battery died.... I must teach my wife how to drive stick......staying in the house wasn't an option......she did great except Reverse......Mid u-turn.....she brought rpms up too 1300(lightweight flywheel and 6 puck clutch) (babe dont dump clutch... slip some.....roll car...... push back in....repeat...... teach you how fun Reverse is later......(my hand on the E-Brake I know she gonna dump it)She dumps it......the idea of someone else dumping clutch......1300 rpms in Reverse.......felt good.....only for about 3.5 milliseconds.....grab the sissy bar(sitting in passenger seat.....the handle above head...... that the right hand grabs when scared) and pulled the E-Brake for dear life...... she's a pro now did I tell you my inspection was up.....must put miles on car cause battery died and all we did was make it out the parking lot....good times.... side note .....I dont care about the smooth engagement on take off..... (i taught her about that.....tryna be a good teacher.....Daniel Son and Mr Miyagi......She swear she a better stick driver than me....
not me.....dead *** tho..... I beat the living hell out of my cars...... RACE IT>>>>BREAK IT>>>>>>FIX IT(BUILD IT BETTER) I drive my cars.....best quote I heard or read it somewhere......I forget..... Not putting miles on your car or scared to drive your car = not wanting to have sex with your wife or scared to have sex with her = what you saving/scared her for...... oh the next man/woman to enjoy......trust me I do...... Thank you to all the pampered drivers....

I said project car and damn you.....project car you became fr fr......Learn from my lifestyle......a well taken care of Honda will last forever...... you beat the living hell out of it......then they will spin a bearing or two......she drove great.....RIP F23a1(2 Owners on the car 1st 214xxx all maintenance done by Honda....2nd Owner had the car for 5 years less than unless 2k tops maybe.......3rd Owner...... ME and I killed her..... kinda feel bad).......I needed an excuse but plan was turbo, swap, but guess all plans are meant to change....swap it is.......anyway back to topic.....few phone calls and cashed in a few more favors.............
the unknown motor
dont know if its an H22 H23A or F20B........ all I know ...few screenshots later.......its yours....kinda buried under a few other parts but yours....I found her a new heart.......See I'm not such of a bad owner after all......

Just look at the block stamp on the front of the block. That could be an f20b or an H23. Its hard to tell without the valve color because from the pics they look exactly the same. I feel you on the rebuild philosophy. However, I dont make tons of money so when my car breaks a part of me breaks too. Ive put over 4000 into my cg and all I have is a full interior swap and stock f20b with a full exhaust. For that price I could have picked up a WRX.

Just look at the block stamp on the front of the block. That could be an f20b or an H23. Its hard to tell without the valve color because from the pics they look exactly the same. I feel you on the rebuild philosophy. However, I dont make tons of money so when my car breaks a part of me breaks too. Ive put over 4000 into my cg and all I have is a full interior swap and stock f20b with a full exhaust. For that price I could have picked up a WRX.

Yup....F20B.....kinda disppointed....was told H23a VTEC.....but never believed people until I read the block stamp........No spun bearing better than one.....Right after I pull up to my house.......cut the car off.......F20b in trunk......Pics of a H22 Prelude hit in rear auto tho comes to my phone...........I pull it.....its mine.......Suppose to be pullin the F23 and trans ......who am i kidding......get the motor first......cars are money pits......no matter what you will always find something or make an excuse on why a good part must be replaced........or at least I do....its a passion
87k on motor...........well that was on the cluster before I pulled it......
Back on topic........pulled the motor n trans.......started to break down the F20B..........
wish I took more pics........but mad tired next time tho......

F20b is still a great engine. The auto version pushes 180 which still isnt that bad at all. Plus you get the benefit of iron sleeves which is ALWAYS a plus. I mean you can always add more power to the F20b so thats nothing to worry about. The F23 trans might not be the best because of the long a$$ gears but if you need to use it, it will work. Im using an Ms24 with mine (84 prelude si). It came with my old H23a1 so I decided to use that over my F23 trans. Good luck with getting it running. Im still working on mine. Im doing the final wiring this weekend. I decided to go with a chipped p28 and make my own 2 foot conversion harness because afaik they dont make one for the f20b ot the cg6 so I just decided to make one while I was at work. Once I get my no spark issue solved ill be golden. Good luck with the wiring and the build. Ill help with the wiring if you need it.

F20b is still a great engine. The auto version pushes 180 which still isnt that bad at all. Plus you get the benefit of iron sleeves which is ALWAYS a plus. I mean you can always add more power to the F20b so thats nothing to worry about. The F23 trans might not be the best because of the long a$$ gears but if you need to use it, it will work. Im using an Ms24 with mine (84 prelude si). It came with my old H23a1 so I decided to use that over my F23 trans. Good luck with getting it running. Im still working on mine. Im doing the final wiring this weekend. I decided to go with a chipped p28 and make my own 2 foot conversion harness because afaik they dont make one for the f20b ot the cg6 so I just decided to make one while I was at work. Once I get my no spark issue solved ill be golden. Good luck with the wiring and the build. Ill help with the wiring if you need it.

Great minds think a like....I wanna boost.........always love a rev-happy engine....which in return i like the accord trans over the prelude......LSD can swapped in each.... so its about gearing.
why i chose the F20B engine.....plan was bore block to 87mm since its 85mm.......i just picked up a h22......can get some rods and pistons for that.....take the H22 crank out .....put it in the F20B Block.....so h22 rods pistons and crank in the F20B....iron sleeves......should work (Honda ironed sleeves H22)......F/H have same deck height.......just swap internals(some exceptions tho......know your stuff) but I lose the F20B crankshaft goodness......and ruin a good motor for no reason......Choices.....hate a GOOD project car...... Done it plenty times.....keep it simple.....
(my idea get her running first with no CELS)
Chipped P28 with a F20B basemap(cleaned up the AFRS)
OBD2 to OBD1 step down harness
Skunk2 Pro series intake for H22 2 wire iat(simple)
4-2-1 headers
No soild mounts...... just stock accord mounts the ebay or autozone special
F20B/H23a motor
Wiring the distributor and extending the harness......diagrams everywhere but its color coded.....plugs are different but follow wire colors....the same for the most part......
wire color for color
8500rpms of gloryness..............
than I said would make a harness.....but TRUST once you driven a F20B and bouncing of 8500rpms........H23a set rev limit 8000rpm long stroke........you never go back......Im lying....every 2 year swap back emissions(NYC)
remember basemap fun......want more power .....buy Hondata S300....Turbo ....so on and so on........
never had a customer complain yet
sorry never followed your build....why custom harness?

I was never able to find one specifically for the cg6 and the F20b. They sell plenty of Obd2 to Obd1 jumper harnesses and I bought one and basically threw it away because it wasnt even close in terms of wiring. If you make your own harness you can be sure any mistakes are on you and the harness isnt defective. I basically grabbed an f20b pinout, a p28 pinout and bought a cheap jumper harness off amazon. Then I pulled all the wires and pins out, added more OEM wire to each wire and made a 2 foot harness so there is less stress on the wires and pins. I also have plenty of space to check my wiring without having to unplug and inspect.

I went with factory mounts as well, I had innovative black when I had my H23 and while they were nice I got tired of feeling every grain of sand in the road. My p28 has the IACV disabled and (maybe) as a result since my ect isnt wired up yet my idle is like 450 and the car dies if it idles too long. Thats the only issue ive seen so far. Im pretty sure you can bore out the cylinders and use aftermarket pistons because they are iron. Wouldnt use any H22 blocks as FRM sleeves dont readily accept after market pistons and the block would need to be resleeved. Also, i've told a few people but make sure all your clearances are to the T. Like within .00001 of an inch because anything over honda's designated clearances in the crank (.0016 I think) and bearings (same clearance) the motor wont last long ( especially with boost). Deck height might be the same but stroke and bore need to be correct as well.

I think if you go that route you could potentially grenade that motor as most people with well built hybrids do. My suggestion is to keep factory internals and just upgrade the rods and pistons for low compression. It saves money and unnecessary complication lol. Not doubting your ability. I just dont want to see another hybrid explode after 10,000 miles lol.

I was never able to find one specifically for the cg6 and the F20b. They sell plenty of Obd2 to Obd1 jumper harnesses and I bought one and basically threw it away because it wasnt even close in terms of wiring. If you make your own harness you can be sure any mistakes are on you and the harness isnt defective. I basically grabbed an f20b pinout, a p28 pinout and bought a cheap jumper harness off amazon. Then I pulled all the wires and pins out, added more OEM wire to each wire and made a 2 foot harness so there is less stress on the wires and pins. I also have plenty of space to check my wiring without having to unplug and inspect.

I went with factory mounts as well, I had innovative black when I had my H23 and while they were nice I got tired of feeling every grain of sand in the road. My p28 has the IACV disabled and (maybe) as a result since my ect isnt wired up yet my idle is like 450 and the car dies if it idles too long. Thats the only issue ive seen so far. Im pretty sure you can bore out the cylinders and use aftermarket pistons because they are iron. Wouldnt use any H22 blocks as FRM sleeves dont readily accept after market pistons and the block would need to be resleeved. Also, i've told a few people but make sure all your clearances are to the T. Like within .00001 of an inch because anything over honda's designated clearances in the crank (.0016 I think) and bearings (same clearance) the motor wont last long ( especially with boost). Deck height might be the same but stroke and bore need to be correct as well.

I think if you go that route you could potentially grenade that motor as most people with well built hybrids do. My suggestion is to keep factory internals and just upgrade the rods and pistons for low compression. It saves money and unnecessary complication lol. Not doubting your ability. I just dont want to see another hybrid explode after 10,000 miles lol.

when you done i would like to see your harness........
looks good I would like one........
swap 6thgenAccord(h23vtec/f20b).......1 day=happy customer......
Ive done plenty.....its simple..... i keep it simple
top 2 problems I time and time and time again
when you order a stepdown harness cheap or not if its wrong......
its wrong.......some many ppl i know talk bad about it but.......
so you need a obd2b or obd2a to obd1 harness.......
50/50 % on getting it right......guess thats why they be havin 2 or stars lmao
OBD2B
• 2000-2001 Acura Integra
• 1999-2000 Honda Civic
• 1998-2002 Honda Accord

OBD2A
• 1996-1999 Acura Integra
• 1996-1998 Honda Civic
• 1996-2001 Honda Prelude
• 1996-1997 Honda Accord
2nd problem this had me stuck like 90 days lol.......
98-99 Accord Temp. Gauge ran off of two sensors the ECT(two wiring plug) and Sending unit (single plug
00-22 Accord Temp. Gauge ran off of one sensor the ECT
- To get the gauge to work in the 00-02 accord you will need 98-99 Cluster and wiring harness or wiring in plug................

F20B/H23A Vtec/H22a4 = Honda OBD2 engine
These have all same deck height.......
problem is different bore/stroke........
Im keeping the bore/stroke (crank/rods/pistions)combo.......
just putting in a honda sleeved blocked(F20B)
Like you said.....IF the specs are right.......well built engine.....
wrong......BOOM.......these are just ideas for now.........
If i had more time(3 kids,Wife,Jobs,then CARS)I build it but either way the F20B is getting bored...(found aftermarket rods and pistons for 1100)....to at least 87mm wanted 90mm all motor with a shot of 75 wet shot........ but my machinist said.......I do it cause you crazy enough to try it and I wanna see it.....(Drinking and working on cars at the same time with friends) weird conversations pursue but waste of money and time.......but good convo tho......lmao