Crested Butte, Colo., is close to perfection

At Pioneer Guest Cabins residents find themselves in nestled in the heart of Gunnison National Forest as soon as they step outside.
Pete Holley photo

In the fall the base of Mt. Crested Butte, the craggy peak that overlooks the town, turns bright gold as the Aspens change color.
Pete Holley photo

A horseback ride in the hills surrounding Crested Butte is one of the best ways to see the changing Aspens up close. Pete Holley photo

A drive in the hills around Crested Butte reveals scenes of fall bliss, like this house a few minutes outside downtown.
Pete Holley photo

Ordinary homes, like this one just outside downtown, get a fall makeover as the weather changes in Crested Butte.
Pete Holley photo

More Information

Postcards from Crested Butte:

1 If you're looking for a rustic experience, consider booking a few nights at Pioneer Guest Cabins, inside the Gunnison National Forest a few miles from downtown Crested Butte. Surrounded by spruce and with a rushing brook steps from your door, the property's eight cabins are the perfect jumping-off point for exploring the wilderness beyond. Inside, the cabins are cozy and clean, with kitchenettes and enough sleeping space for a family. Outside, a fire pit with a couple of pine chairs beckons for late-night stargazing and s'mores-making. Information: pioneerguestcabins.com.

2 A trip to Crested Butte is not complete without an outdoor adventure. If you're not an extreme adventurer, horseback riding is a leisurely alternative. Starting at a dusty field at the base of Mount Crested Butte, a horseback ride with guides from Fantasy Ranch meanders through gorgeous ranchland and stunning Aspen forests. On a recent fall weekend, those forests were in full bloom, turning nearby hillsides into a colorful palette of yellow, orange and green that nearly resembled 1930s Technicolor. During our two-hour trek, the guides were extra friendly; the horses were, too. Information: fantasyranchoutfitters.com.

3 A stroll through downtown Crested Butte on a fall afternoon is not complete without a stop by Montanya Distillers tasting room on Elk Avenue. A local mountain rum distillery started by a husband-and-wife team, Montanya has received numerous awards since it opened in 2008. In addition to serving delicious appetizers, the tasting room has found countless ways to mix its rum, from fruity mojitos to Bloody Marys with a bite. People-watching on the outdoor patio, a cool breeze nipping at your heels, while holding a glass of steaming rum cider with a hint of cinnamon is among the best ways to end a chilly afternoon. Information and recipes: montanyadistillers.com.

4 Despite its frontier past, Crested Butte is home to sophisticated cuisine from all over the world. Those hoping to reconnect with their down-home roots, however, shouldn't miss Slogar Bar &amp; Restaurant. Set off the main drag in an historical wood-frame building on 2nd Street, the restaurant offers family-style fixed-price fried chicken nightly. The ambience feels like an upscale 1890s establishment, but that's beside the point. Whether it's the main course, the fluffy biscuits, cole slaw or mouth-watering mashed potatoes and gravy, in Slogar's case, practice makes perfect.

A tidy clump of picturesque Victorian blocks laid out beneath Mount Crested Butte - the 12,000-foot mass of craggy rock and pine that engulfs the horizon - the town is equal parts cushy ski resort and ecofriendly hippie haven.

But these hippies are not your existentially compromised New Age loafers milling around a downtown park with outdated hairstyles and the stench of patchouli oil on their skin.

Adrenaline junkies, they have bulging calf muscles, sun-scorched faces and the kind of brute physical confidence that comes from scaling sheer rock faces or plunging downhill in a mountain biking race - Crested Butte's preferred version of cycling.

With more than a hint of an independent streak, Crested Butte doesn't have Louis Vuitton or Prada stores. In fact, rigorous historical preservation guidelines make it difficult for chain stores to settle in downtown Crested Butte, bolstering dozens of mom-and-pop businesses that offer everything from custom-made furniture to authentic Thai cuisine.

While you won't find any big box stores here, you may develop the lingering suspicion that you've wandered into a Lands' End catalog. It starts with the antique storefronts that line tourist-friendly Elk Street. Down here, the uniform is coffee-shop comfortable with a hint of ruggedness: dusty hiking boots, flannel shirts and broken-in Levis. Rare is the passer-by who is without a bulky SLR camera or a steaming cup of rum cider in his hands. Chances are this individual is not walking, but strolling, often with a look on his face that suggests he is experiencing utter contentedness. Big-city visitors may find locals' peaceable nature suspicious at first glance. Wait a few more days and it'll all make sense.

When locals are not engaging in some form of strenuous physical activity, everyone seems to move a bit more slowly around here. The speed limit downtown is a snail-pace 15 mph. What's more, people actually obey it!

Stranger yet are the local children, who roam the streets unaccompanied and carefree, often in small packs and, as best I could tell, without the aid of mobile technology. Don't miss the ice-cold brook that meanders through downtown, wrapping around historical landmarks and bisecting backyards, its water crystal clear, its babble pitch-perfect.

Of course, at this time of year, almost everything - but especially any patch of manicured green lawn - is sprinkled with bright-yellow aspen leaves that float from the sky heralding shorter days and colder temperatures.

The more you walk around Crested Butte, the more confounding the place's perfection becomes. Just when you think you've had enough, taking a seat on a handcrafted pine bench outside an adorable independent bookstore full of outdoorsy types, a beautiful golden retriever appears before you. Before he nuzzles your hand and curls up beside your feet, you notice he has a decorative orange feather attached to his ear. Of course he does, you think, breaking into laughter. Anywhere else a random guy could sit on a downtown bench and the universe wouldn't bat an eye. In Crested Butte, life self-corrects, making even the most mundane moments postcard-worthy.