Blue · Butcher & Meat Specialist

Time Out says

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Time Out says

A new sapphire in Maximal Concepts’ crown

It was somewhat out of the blue when Blue Butcher – one of the first Maximal Concepts eateries – was revamped and rebranded Blue · Butcher & Meat Specialist. The main differences are that the new iteration offers the coveted rubia gallega beef from Spain and the dining group has brought in artisanal butcher Jonny Farrell from England to age and treat the meat. As for the premises, gone are the cleavers on the walls of the stairwell and plants now dot the glass panels of the main dining room. Overall, though, little has changed.

We don’t waste time and dig into a scallop ceviche ($165) where the shellfish is served in a garden of cucumbers and raspberries. It’s a small portion but it’s light and zesty.

We won’t forgive ourselves if we don’t sample the 45-day aged rubia gallega beef, which has been left to pasture for up to 18 years before slaughter. With produce that has such a low yield, it’s no surprise that a 600g sirloin costs a hefty $850. But once we taste it, it’s absolutely worth every penny. The flavour is so intense we can only describe it as a concentrate five times greater than normal beef per bite, and for the first time in our life we understand why a side is necessary when consuming steak. Our palates need a break from the intense fragrance of meat and thankfully our order of starch of the day ($120), potatoes fried in garlic and olive oil, provides the perfect interlude. We round off the evening with a Valrhona chocolate cake ($115), plated with charred corn ice cream and candied popcorn. The sweet toffee notes from the kernels enhance the cake and pique our palates.

Rarely does meat set off fireworks quite like here. As long as the restaurant keeps the exclusive rights to rubia gallega in Hong Kong and Jonny Farrell keeps working his magic, this place gets a blue ribbon from us.