Madsen's Shop
& Supply Inc.

Preparing For A Saw
Competition

It is always fun to participate in timber carnivals, logging
shows, and other types of cutting contests. They give you a good
opportunity to show off your skill and have a good time doing it. In
addition to the thrill of competition, it's always nice to win or at
least finish near the top. Who wants to be a loser in front of their
family and friends? Nobody!

Unfortunately, in all competitions, there are winners and
losers. And sometimes the difference between first and last place is
pretty small. In all events, a few inches or seconds may be all that
separates the top finisher from the losers. The difference is sometimes
the result of skill or strength, but more often, the guy that wins has
an edge. Chain saw events are no exception, and perhaps the best
example of an event where the guy with the best equipment usually gets
the trophy.

Over the years, we've helped many competitors edge their way
into top spots. The following information is a grab bag of information
that addresses many questions we are asked on the subject. The info is
aimed at mostly bucking contests with stock saws, so if you're setting
up for unlimited saw, obstacle pole, a falling contest, or something
else, some of this may not apply. We also invite those of you who
compete and wish to share a few hints to email them to us.

This Stihl 088 belongs to Madsen's. We built
it about ten
years ago. It is fitted with nitrous injection system originally
designed for a Yamaha 125 cart engine. We don't build or run these
anymore due to liability.

Learn The
Rules

To begin, every contest has rules. If you are going to get an
edge, you need to find out what they are. Everything is important:
engine size limits, rules of modification, cutting requirements, and so
on. Crafty rule makers often try to stack the deck to favor certain
participants or brands of equipment. So get the rules and study them
carefully. Also ask how they are going to enforce them.

Many local shows try to run saws that are similar to ones run
everyday in the woods. This is probably the best way to show cutting
skill. In many cases, they may even provide the powerheads, but let you
run your own chain. In this circumstance, your only edge will be the
chain and some skill you can acquire once you know the rules. In other
cases, the rules may allow you to bring your own "stock appearing" saw.
This allows both box stock saws, and, some real tigers hiding
underneath a stock appearing exterior.

Another thing you need to learn is how to start the race. Does
the timer start when you hit the wood or does part of your time include
starting your saw? On events that start before the clock is running, a
highly modified saw that is difficult to start may actually slow you
down. A stock saw that will start and cut in one pull, will beat a
hopped up saw that takes five pulls to start every time.

Trim Time From
The Start

Another tip that you can use to shave a little time is to
mesmerize the clock keepers in an event when the clock starts when you
hit the wood. Most guys go up to a log, rev the saw a couple of times
and start their cut. You can sometimes get a little time out of the
timers if you go up to the log, rev it up 10 times or so, and start
your cut. The timers expect guys to start right away. When you delay
your start, just about the time they are wondering when you are going
start, your saw will hit the wood. This may catch them a little off
guard and can delay their pressing of the button that starts the clock.

This is Dick Smith competing in a stock appearing
contest running a Stihl 088 in Australia.

Set Your Saw Up
To Win

While this has nothing to do with time keepers, a mistake a
lot of competitors make is they adjust their saw way too lean for
competition. Guys like to adjust them so they will wind up with no
"blubber" sound at wide open. While a saw that is adjusted to scream
like this sounds great, the truth is, when it gets in the log it
doesn't have the power a properly adjusted saw will have. Some really
good competitors keep beating themselves by adjusting their saws too
lean time and time again.

Another mistake some make is they cut the depth gauges on
their chain too low which makes the chains too aggressive. When they
hit the wood, if the saw comes off it's peak for only a moment, the
race is lost. The best thing is to keep the depth gauges where you run
them in the woods. While this may not feel the best, your cuts will be
smooth and fast. Even if you do keep it in the power range, chains are
not efficient when the depth gauges are low, so keep them in the normal
range.

This rare
Stihl 090 has a ten
cubic inch top end. Stihl made only a handful of these. This
one
is also fitted it with a snowmobile carburetor and a tuned
pipe. The saw belongs to Madsen's. Back in its day, it
was a contender.

Practice Makes
Perfect

When you find out what kind of log you are going to be
cutting, get a bar that will just reach through. Don't run a longer bar
than you have to. Also, if you can find an old roller nose bar that is
in good shape, use it. The advantage is that the nose turns, but the
chain can also slip on it like a hard-nose bar. It may also be an
advantage to run full-comp chain. Many contest logs are 24" and
smaller. Full comp chain will cut faster than skip tooth in these
smaller cuts.

The one thing that is guaranteed to make you faster is
practice. You're thinking, right, I need practice? I run these saws
everyday. The truth is, you will make faster cuts if you find out what
type of log you are going to be sawing in and make test cuts with a
stop watch.

First, you will learn that you double cut more than you
realize. While this is not a big deal in everyday work, it does cost
you a little time in a race. It may be just enough to cause you to
lose. A good technique is to start just over the back and slowly pull
the saw through the cut. Never dawg it in, and keep the motor running
as smoothly as you can. If it comes off the max power band even for a
second, you are history. Also try to go through the cut so the chain
doesn't have to pull chips the full distance of the bar. That is why it
is good to start just over the back and gradually pull the saw over the
front to where it is level at the bottom of the cut.

Yes, that is a hot saw powered by a V8. They don't get
any more
radical than this. This is owned and operated by Robert Andrews of
Enumclaw, Washington. See our photo album for more pics of
this
saw.

Practice will also teach you to look for knots and to pick a
path through the log where you can avoid them. Knots are harder to cut
through, and while this may not be a big deal in your work, it will
cost you time in a race.

Some guys push hard at the bottom of a cut to try to take
advantage of the chains momentum at the end of the cut. This sometimes
causes them to stall at the bottom of the cut if they guess wrong. You
may be able to do this slightly, though, and practice will help you
perfect it

When you practice, try to put something under your log so you
don't damage your chain when it comes through or come in contact with
something that will cause a kickback as you exit the cut. You want to
come through the cut as quickly and safely as you can. It is a good
idea to look at this in competition too. If you break a chain and have
to make one more cut, you're going to finish behind the slowest guy.

This is a Stihl 088 built by Hayden Hutton in South
Africa. Hayden
has done extensive work on this engine. Notice the separable
head.

One of the biggest advantages of practicing in a test log
prior to the race is the ability to try different set ups and grinds.
Comparing the results of a seven tooth sprocket to an eight tooth
sprocket to maybe even a nine tooth will tell you what you should run.
If the race log is going to be bigger, you will want to try skip chain
against full comp. You can experiment with technique.

We hope these tips are helpful. If you are a competitor and
have some secrets to share, please email them to us. Thanks ahead of time.