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I just wrapped the install and everything's working great. Unfortunately I can't say that they were easy to install. I am a newbie to motorcycles but I have been wrenching on fixed gear and road bicycles for years. Here are some initial thoughts and tips, following LD's order, for posterity:

- Be CAREFUL removing the right rearset. Once all three bolts are removed, it will be hanging by the master cylinder line and the brake light switch line. You do not want to break the break light switch, trust me. By the way, the bottom two bolts take a ton of force to remove. None of the three are thread locked, but they are torqued quite tight. I set up my hex wrench properly and then stomped on it (carefully). I've been using that method to remove bicycle crank bolts for years... maybe I need to invest in a cheater bar

- Removing the rubber grommets from the original rearsets and then re-installing them on the Rizomas is a ROYAL PAIN. I tried to fight the buggers and then gave up. The easiest thing to do is put your heat gun on low and get them nice and soft before pushing them around. I originally tried to use a flat head screwdriver to pry them free and that didn't work so well.

- Removing the micro brake-light switch is another pain because you need to twist the rearset to prevent getting kinks in the switch cable. You'll want to remove/install the switch with no other cables connected to the rearset. You don't need to use the original copper washer on the Rizoma rearset; they provide a new one for ya. I didn't adjust the sensitivity of the light from what Rizoma set as stock, since I only rest my foot on the pedal if I intend to brake or signal that I'm slowing down. YMMV.

- Keep the rubber boot on the master cylinder when you install the new Rizoma spring. The gold collar will slide right over the boot.

- Dry fit the master cylinder to make sure it sits OK. You will want to install both bolts before cranking down on them to make sure the cylinder is centered. Use blue loc-tite on the bolts.

- VERY IMPORTANT: The new 796's rear caliper hose is routed completely different than the one in LD's photo. Instead of pointing straight down when the master cylinder is installed, it needs to make a tight "U" and curve up through the aluminum sub-frame and behind the header pipe. By default the "U" is too tight to be safe, so you'll need to loosen the bolt on the master cylinder and re-position the hose so that the "U" is not so sharp. There is nothing you can do to get rid of the bend, so just make it as wide as possible. When unbolting the hose, loosen it as little as possible to prevent the chance of air entering the brake system.

- When bolting down the rearset, it may not want to go into the carrier sleeve all the way. This is fine. Just tighten the large bolt to proper torque and it will go in all the way. Then torque the bottom two bolts. Again, no loc-tite because Ducati uses their own grease. I did not find the proper torque settings for these three bolts. Just use common sense -- make them tight enough to stay on there but don't strip out the engine block.

- I have a separate thread in Tech about cutting the brake line. It turned out to be a non-event, but it needs to be done. It's just too long by default. Here's what I did:
1. Protect all surfaces below the reservoir with towels. If you spill any brake
fluid, you will strip the paint off the engine case or swing arm.
2. Mark the location to cut. I cut off about 1" of line. Purposely kink the line
(fold it so the reservoir is facing down) and then cut.
3. Drain and recycle the reservoir fluid. Remove the clamp and old hose.
Install clamp on the shortened brake line and re-install reservoir. Clamp it
properly. Bolt the reservoir to the extender.
4. Fill the reservoir up with fresh DOT 4 fluid.

- If you're working alone, you really need a stand for the left side. It's a good excuse to go splurge on a Pitbull. You just dropped close to 1k on the Rizomas, what's another $200?

- Don't forget to install the included washers between the engine case and lower bolts for the left rearset. If you forget like I did, you just need to loosen the top bolt and slide them behind the two bolts.

- Enjoy your new rearsets and have an adult beverage of choice!

Once the rearsets were installed, I was very happy. The bike looks great without those stupid passenger wings, and you can also fetch a couple bucks for 'em on eBay if you're so inclined.

I didn't have any problems with air in the rear brake line. After installation I can still lock up the rear brake without too much effort, but I noticed that the rear brake is much more "analog" than stock, where it was either disengaged or almost fully engaged. You get a lot more feel with it.

The clutch side was fine, no adjustments necessary. The linkage works fine but would have looked better in black in my eyes .

The carbon heel guards are a necessary. I hate to say it but I actually think the aluminum guards that come stock are pretty ugly/cheap. Glad I spent an extra $40 on the CF ones!

As a peculiarity, my box looks like it was opened and re-sealed. The Rizoma stickers/seals were intact but kind of bent, as if someone peeled them off and carelessly re-applied them. My right rearset was missing one bolt and nut for the master cylinder, but it turned out to be a great case of serendipity. I headed to Home Despot and got some M6x20mm black hex cap bolts that I think look better than the polished ones. I've heard of people getting incorrect pegs with the Rizoma rearsets, so their quality control leaves something to be desired. To be honest, don't expect to get these things installed the day they arrive in case parts are missing.

Again, I love these things. A few issues, but overall a great way to clean up my bike's appearance and gain adjustability in all directions.

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How do u hide the cables that goes to the brake. It was in a housing under the swing arm. But with the rizomas installs it wont go back in the same housing. I tried but the cables feel stressed so just zip tied them. They dont bother me, but would like a clean look.
Any help/ suggestions?

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Well, I worked out the other bit too
1. install the Rizoma pushrod loosely into the clevis, although mine came already screwed together. Install the pushrod, spring, spring retainers, master cylinder onto the footrest
2. adjust the pushrod length so that, with the pushrod JUST hitting the piston, there is 21mm gap between the spring retainers, and tighten the pushrod lock nut
3. adjust the stop that activates the brake light switch so that, when the level hits the stop, there is .5 mm before the pushrod hits the piston: OR, so that there is 21.5 mm gap between the spring retainers
...BUT this causes quite a lot of brake engagement before the brake light comes on, so I wound the stopper out fully do there is the MAXIMUM clearance before the brake light is engaged. This allows me to activate the brake light before there is too much (if any) brake engagement

Also, as a PS regarding the lower two main bolts each side
* on the RHS (brake), they are the same part
* on the LHS side (gear shift), the forward bolt is the LONGER of the two

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My mechanic has installed rizoma rearsets on my monster 696. Love the look but since being installed i have had the back brake lock on. Fixed this issue but 200km later had no back brake. Mechanic said brake pads were worn away but doesn't know why this is happening. Has anyone had any problem with their rizoma rearset.

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I have rizoma rearsets on my 2009 1100...I have a size 14 shoe/boot and now I'm having issues shifting. I just bought a set of Icon El Bajo boots and now my foot won't even go under the shifter lever...how do I adjust/open the lever to allow me to shift using my big ass shoe/boot?

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My mechanic has installed rizoma rearsets on my monster 696. Love the look but since being installed i have had the back brake lock on. Fixed this issue but 200km later had no back brake. Mechanic said brake pads were worn away but doesn't know why this is happening. Has anyone had any problem with their rizoma rearset.

I feel like if it was sticking it was because a lever was stuck down. Maybe a bolt was overtightened. If the rear brake isn't working then maybe it wasn't bled properly. It needs to be removed and rotated to the top of the rotor before being bled.

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