You can check to see if the front rod seal is bad by applying vacuum to one side or the other. If it only leaks on the rod side, pretty good chance it's only that seal. Otherwise, not rebuildable.
I had a 68 coffee can that leaked when I got it. Bought a replacement, it leaked a year later. Converted to pie pan style. The linkage was a mass of rust in a year and it leaked.
Switched to electric 5 years ago, when I did my LS swap, no problems since then.

You can check to see if the front rod seal is bad by applying vacuum to one side or the other. If it only leaks on the rod side, pretty good chance it's only that seal. Otherwise, not rebuildable.
I had a 68 coffee can that leaked when I got it. Bought a replacement, it leaked a year later. Converted to pie pan style. The linkage was a mass of rust in a year and it leaked.
Switched to electric 5 years ago, when I did my LS swap, no problems since then.

Where did you get your electric one at? I'm looking for the exact same one you have as the one the vendors sale doesn't look all that attractive under the hood. Thanks and have a happy turkey day

I bought my actuator from these guys:http://www.firgelliauto.com/
I made my own brackets, pretty simple.
It's wired to my dash wiper switch, no extra switch needed.
The only other parts were 2 relays to reverse polarity. A dpdt microswitch to replace the spst wiper door switch. The new dpdt actuates the wiper motor and acts as a limit switch for the wiper door open position. Also a diode for the open limit switch.
Total cost was about $100.

I bought my actuator from these guys:http://www.firgelliauto.com/
I made my own brackets, pretty simple.
It's wired to my dash wiper switch, no extra switch needed.
The only other parts were 2 relays to reverse polarity. A dpdt microswitch to replace the spst wiper door switch. The new dpdt actuates the wiper motor and acts as a limit switch for the wiper door open position. Also a diode for the open limit switch.
Total cost was about $100.

2" stroke mini actuator, similar to the one in the link. Although I think the one I got was a slower speed, higher force version of the one in the link. I wanted the door to close slowly to prevent it from shutting with the wipers still going. I dont see that version on the website any more, but you can contact them, see if it's still available.
BTW, I see the price went up $20 since I got mine.http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_...roducts_id=286

2" stroke mini actuator, similar to the one in the link. Although I think the one I got was a slower speed, higher force version of the one in the link. I wanted the door to close slowly to prevent it from shutting with the wipers still going. I dont see that version on the website any more, but you can contact them, see if it's still available.
BTW, I see the price went up $20 since I got mine.http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_...roducts_id=286

Hey that looks so good I almost didn't see it was the finished conversion! This should be a start on the headlight doors also?

There's a member here that use to make the brackets to fit TransAM headlight motors on C3's. I bought the brackets but haven't started the conversion yet but will start a thread once I do. I don't want any vacuum lines on my car.

So I'm seeing a "Actuator rod seal" listed for my '72 that has the rubber plug. They say this is often the issue on these. Can anybody give me an idea how to test this?

pm me your email address and I'll send the PDF file for the headlight and wiper door test procedures. I have mine still in the box and it's unused so if yours is bad I'll sell it to you for $60 plus shipping as I paid $100+ dollars for it.

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