i would rent a ball joint press and have a good hack saw. start by knokning out the centers then cutting the outer shell by putting the blade through the middle make a good cut the knock them out with a chissel and a hammer then to put them back in i would use the ball joint press. Its been a while since i have done them so i am sure someone else will chime in with more info.
also rent a spring compressor to remove the tension from the spring to remove the control arms.
Jesse

also when pressing the second side in on the uppers you will need to use the ball joint press on both outer sides as the through shaft will be in the middle so make sure you use something between the 2 sides so it doesn't crush last time I did it I just used a piece od pvc pipe cut to length.

I do this way.
For the uppers you will need to have a jack undet the lower "A" arm to take the weight off of the side you are working. Leave the shock attached so the spring can not get out of there and hurt someone. Now remove the cotter key and castled ball joint nut. With a BIG HAMMER hit the side ot the spindle and the ball-joint will come apart. Let it dangle there using a clothes hanger to support the weight of the spindle and all that is left on the spindle. If you do not support the weight you will be buying a new brake hose.
Now unbolt the two attaching bolts at the frame. Take the two 3/8X24 bolts out of the control arm. You will need to clean and reuse these so keep track of them.
Now comes the fun part.
Using a BIG chisel and a VERY BIG hammer drive one of the bushings out from the "A" arm, supporting the control arm in a vise. Repeat for the other end. Now clean the shaft and put some light weight lube on the ends of the shaft and set it aside. Clean the "A" arm where the new bushings are going to be installed.
Find a socket that will fit over the rubber part of the new bushing but hit the outer metal jacket. If you have a welder you could make this "driver" by welding a flat piece of metal over one end of a short lenght of pipe. Anyway just get one side started but not fully in place. Now install the shaft and slide it in the direction of the last bushing. Put the new bushing over the shaft and back it into the bushing that you installed first. Drive that bushing in and keep it aligned with the other bushing as you hit. Once the bushings are driven in put the control arm back into the car. Then bolt everything back together EXCEPT the bolts that go into the ends. Once the car is back on the ground and supporting it's own weight THEN tighten the end bolts. I also use waterless hand soap on the bushing so they drive in more easily. Oil is not good for the rubber but hand soap can be washed off.
I will post the "how to's" for the lowers when my fingers rest up a bit.

Many years ago, (around '78 I think) a buddy and I changed one side's bushings on a 68 GTO in an unpaved rest stop along the side of US 17.

Tools on hand: bumperjack, bottle jack, 8 oz ball-peen hammer, vice grips, hacksaw, various screwdrivers, a "C" clamp too small to use, a decent socket set, a fairly large rock, and a 12-pack.

It took over 6 hours, large amounts of blood and many screams and curses. Looking back on it, I still don't know how we did it. Took it for alignment a few days later, it wasn't too far off.
Don't try this at home!

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