I’ve got the boat (28’ S2) in the back yard for a re-fit b4 heading off on a coastal cruising adventure next spring (not working on it today as it’s 22 below zero!) and even though I’m a great believer in the K.I.S.S. principle, it appears they can’t give away the Lewmar V1 windlass cheap enough.
List for $2300, I’ve found it for as low as a few hundred bucks. I’ve got a lot of homework to do before pulling the trigger, but this is sure looking good to a guy born in the Truman administration who’ll be doing a lot of anchoring whilst single handing. Talk to me guys.

Is it new? Then go for it, if you can afford to power it and install a battery and remote charger that it is more likely than not going to require. Personally, on a boat your size, I would recommend going with a manual windlass.

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Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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At currently advertised discount prices, the V1 looks like a very good deal.

Be sure to install it with healthy-sized wire/cable. The manual isn't very helpful...doesn't even give amperage draw stats...and the table given is confusing (why combine boat size and wire-run lengths, when only wire-run length is important?). I'd use wire a size or two larger than shown in this rather crummy table.

Probably consolidating after they bought out Simpson-Lawrence. The windlass I use is an Anchorman manual windlass, which they discontinued just before I bought mine IIRC. It's a nice windlass, for a manual one... and works quite well on my boat.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxLnghrn

Looks like Lewmar is closing out a couple of windlass lines. $600 for a V1 super compact.

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Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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I'm going to offer my 2 cents and suggest that you consider going with an electric windlass, rather than a manual. I offer 3 reasons for this recommendation.

1. You indicate that you will be doing a lot of single-handed sailing. The most dangerous time for any sailor is when he leaves the safety of his cockpit and goes out on deck. Going up to the bow to handle the anchor in rough weather can be a nightmare. With an electric windlass you can safely deploy and retrieve your anchor without having to go forward.

2. Given the size of the boat (27 ft.) and your cruising area, it is unlikely that you will be using all chain. You will most likely use a smaller-sized anchor and line, with a 10 ft, chain rode. You won't need a heavy-duty windlass to raise this combination. Muscle power will work just fine if you choose not to install a windlass.

3. As your engine will most likely be running when you engage your electric windlass, you'll put minimal stress on your battery bank.

I have owned two boats (25 and 35 ft.) on which I mounted electric windlasses. Both vessels had just starting and house batteries and I never suffered any electrical issues.

Finally, my present boat, a Hunter 30, has no place to install a windlass, so I must use muscle power. As I single hand most of the time, I do not enjoy having to go up to the bow to do the anchoring. I feel quite vulnerable out there. I would love to be able to install an electric windlass so I could just pick my spot, drop the hook, let out enough scope, and set the anchor, all at the push of a button. Seems like a smart and safe way to do things.

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