OK Mr. OCD, here's what you do next...
When you get that block all polished, machined and cleaned install one or more video cameras inside so you can see all that polishing you just did.LOL (actually that might be kinda cool).
My 5th no more ideas, LOL.

Seriously, I think you are actually making the block a little stronger, as well as oil drain-back friendly. Just make sure they clean it really well, you don't want any grit or metal dust inside your oil passages. And I don't think there's any way you can polish inside there! Oh, and I'd be careful about grinding those raised pads by the crank journals--they might require a certain tolerance for proper torque and fit of the crank end caps/girdles.

I hope I'm still this side of the daisies when you get your car finished.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ivan @ Southwest Speed

Nathan is a MONSTER!

Dang brotha!
Ivan

Thanks Ivan, she getting there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sleez

did you weigh it before?

I wish I would have documented the before and after, would had been interesting.

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenmachinedriver

This project just entered a whole new dimension of crazy. Ive seen guus debur engine blocks before but this is insane, your next purchase should be a straight jacket to keep your hands off the grinder. Lol

You see.... now thats an idea, LOL

Quote:

Originally Posted by NinoSS

I did this mod... That is the extent of my engine clean up...

Nino, that dang heater hose is what started me on this journey. So be careful because you never know.

Nathan...still watching you. I won't give up on ya, but just stop adding more stuff to do! I know you're trying. Also just wanted to remind you to grind away the powder coat where the generator meets the block, and the bolts meet the bracket. That is an electrical connection. I know you are still a long way away...but I didn't want to forget to remind you since I learned the hard way.

I stripped all of the paint off my coil packs, strut-tower brace, and air box. The paint never cured right, and the clear was already starting to yellow. When the parts got warm from driving, they would get sticky and dirt would stick to them. So off with the paint. Sent the parts off to Mike (thepowdercoater dot com) to powder coat, and received them back. They look very good. I even had Mike add a black lightning bolt to the red coil packs to keep with the subtle AC/DC theme of the car. The coil packs are plastic, but Mike knows how to get powder to stick. I'll take some new photos once I get them back installed in the next day or so.

SWEET! that looks great with the carbon fiber. Is your car CGM or black? Very nice. You can change that EVAP line that runs over the throttle body for about $10 and run it under the throttle body. email me if you are interested I'll get you the part numbers for the quick connects. I think I did post the part numbers on this thread. You found a way to run the fuel line under the cover, I didn't think that would work, I might have to try again. I'm sure with vibrations the fuel line has rubbed on my cover though, which would mean I would have to repaint it.

Nathan...still watching you. I won't give up on ya, but just stop adding more stuff to do! I know you're trying. Also just wanted to remind you to grind away the powder coat where the generator meets the block, and the bolts meet the bracket. That is an electrical connection. I know you are still a long way away...but I didn't want to forget to remind you since I learned the hard way.

I stripped all of the paint off my coil packs, strut-tower brace, and air box. The paint never cured right, and the clear was already starting to yellow. When the parts got warm from driving, they would get sticky and dirt would stick to them. So off with the paint. Sent the parts off to Mike (thepowdercoater dot com) to powder coat, and received them back. They look very good. I even had Mike add a black lightning bolt to the red coil packs to keep with the subtle AC/DC theme of the car. The coil packs are plastic, but Mike knows how to get powder to stick. I'll take some new photos once I get them back installed in the next day or so.

572, thanks for the reminder! And YES, I don't want to add anymore to the to do list. I even contemplated sticking the engine back once it's put together without detailing the bay just to workout any mechanical bugs and engine it for whats left of the summer and pulling it out again in the winter to finish her up. I just want to drive this thing already! Will see..........

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pharmaro

Here's a few updated shots of my engine bay! I did the heater hose relocate and Holley coil pack covers (special shout out to SS4PK for the extra help). I'm feeling adventurous, maybe the black anodized fuel rails next?

Pharmaro, your doing a great job. Rails will look great on there .......keep it up!

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS4PK

Pharmaro,

SWEET! that looks great with the carbon fiber. Is your car CGM or black? Very nice. You can change that EVAP line that runs over the throttle body for about $10 and run it under the throttle body. email me if you are interested I'll get you the part numbers for the quick connects. I think I did post the part numbers on this thread. You found a way to run the fuel line under the cover, I didn't think that would work, I might have to try again. I'm sure with vibrations the fuel line has rubbed on my cover though, which would mean I would have to repaint it.

SS4PK thats a great suggestion , and please post the parts #.

Quick update: Finally finish the grinding freakin block! having it blasted and will post pictures shortly. Now it's time for reassembly of the 418

Here is the part number to change the unsightly EVAP purge tube that runs over the throttle body and the EVAP purge tube that runs from the solenoid to near the fuel line. They come in a pack of 2. From Summitracing but drop shipped from Dorman.

Summit part number RNB800-123, and the disconnect tool for the metal end near the fuel line is RNB 800-009. Buy what ever size fuel line you need for a hose and you are set. Dorman's part number is without the RNB.

Here is the part number to change the unsightly EVAP purge tube that runs over the throttle body and the EVAP purge tube that runs from the solenoid to near the fuel line. They come in a pack of 2. From Summitracing but drop shipped from Dorman.

Summit part number RNB800-123, and the disconnect tool for the metal end near the fuel line is RNB 800-009. Buy what ever size fuel line you need for a hose and you are set. Dorman's part number is without the RNB.

No I was just talking about the one that goes over the intake since thats what I thought you were solely referencing. The tubing is hard plastic but if you take your time you won't go through the connectors underneath. And yes the bend didn't matter since I used flexible hose. I believe I used 7/32 vacuum line from Advance and routed it underneath the throttle body.

One of these days I'll fully relocate the solenoid. I have the tech afx one for the metal side but I don't like it at all. Not very bendable and no good way of routing it. The connectors you listed would be good to create that line as I wouldn't buy that line if I had to do it over again.

Nathan, if you were really OCD you would disassemble the entire engine, debur the block and heads and have the whole thing glass beaded to even out the cast aluminum texture, followed by a clear coat to keep the aluminum looking clean and bright.

I didn't give you any ideas did I? ;^)

Just got the engine back from blasting. My 5th, anymore ideas? Actually it came out killer, so thanks, LOL. Next comes cleaning and machining the block for the 418 forge internals.

Had the seem for the air box blasted. The plan is to weld the seem from the inside of the panel.

Than plasma cut to remove the pinch weld that on the outside. Trim a few inches off the edges since I'm using nut-certs. Next will be to belt sand the perimeter to clean up the edges and finally, to smooth out all the wrinkles with a skim coat and paint it in a gun metal. That's the short of it. Doing this because I'm not planning on reinstalling the firewall insulation. But painting it in the satin gun metal finish.

Now you just gotta keep that exterior aluminum clean. It will oxidize and coolant, oil or fuel leaks will stain it. I'm thinking a clear engine enamel might do the trick, but you need to find a brand that won't yellow. Hope you got all the grit out. Maybe you need to hot tank it before clear coat to make sure all the grit is out.