Thank you, It was the the MAF sensor ! It was just dirty. Checked that the filaments were not broken, cleaned it with the "CRC MAF cleaner". It ran rough for about the first 10 minutes and has been running beautifully for the past 2 weeks.

I just dealt with the same issue... Brake and battery light came on. Soon after, my engine died in the parking lot. The idler pulley had fallen off, thus the belt wasn't turning and charging my battery. I had to replace the pulley and belt for $200.

I have a 2001 and the switch that moves my seat forward and back just died. Kind of a problem when it's stuck in the "away" postion to let me out of my car. My legs don't reach the pedal now and I have to use my tippy toes!

ive had a similiar problem, to the point where the clicks to turn my car went from 1 to freakin 5 clicks to none. at the point of no clicking, my starter short circuited along with my battery going to the point of no recharge. horrible experience, but my opinion, get it looked at before clicking it over too many times.

My 1999 I30 has begun to shut off while im driving slowly (under 15mph). The lights on the dash come on, the power steering dies and the gas is unresponsive. I then pull over, turn off the car, and when i turn the key it starts right back up. this has happened to me on the freeway during traffic and Im nervous about getting rear ended by someone since my car wont move for a minute. please offer advice or guidance. thanks

It could be your alternator but your battery, if still good, should pick up the slack if alternator is not putting out the correct power at lower speeds.

Could also be you Mass Airflow sensor incorrectly measuring the airflow and fuel mix causing the car to stall. The Mass Airflow Sensor can be removed and cleaned with Mass Airflow Cleaner. Not a hard task, just takes a little time.

Start with the free battery and alternator checks at most of the national automotive part store chains (autozone, etc..) . They also have the abiity to offer free computer diagnostic code analysis. If these two free tests don't yield any answers, I would suggest taking to a shop and have them look further into it.

So... my 99 I30 was purchased in 2008 as a gift from my grandmother for graduating college - This is the only car I've ever owned so I'm not too savvy - pardon my terminology ignorance in advance. I have (and my mother) have put nearly $3,000 into this money pit (cracked radiator, new tires, oil changes, maintainence check-ups, brake light failures, broken fog light, interior electronic issues - radio volume knob sticks horribly, dash lights come on at random (when nothing is wrong), windows will roll down& lights flash when car is not being unlocked/locked ... & more issues have just come up as of several days ago. I'm ready to take a baseball bat to it and finish the job myself. Now onto my current issue as of this last weekend:Driving home from work late at night I notice when I'm depressing the brake at stop lights the car starts going into a spaztic convulsion, thudding and shaking the entire frame every several seconds (no warning lights are on my dash), so I immediately pull over, turn everything off, wait a few minutes and start up again - I notice, while in Park and/or Neutral the "convulsions" aren't very noticeable (quieter and more subtle), then when put into drive (1st, 2nd, and D) it repeats the madness. I went to see my mom and she thought it was the transmission failing (as do I), but here's the strange part... I checked my Trans Dipstick - smells sweet and is a nice rosey color, then checked in the morning for leaks where I had parked - nothing; finally, took for another ride around to see if I noticed any slipping/catching gears when accelerating or high rpm - again, nothing - has plenty of torque - and thus, we come to my question...

WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH MY CAR ?!?!? :sick: & Should I cut my losses and buy a Honda or Toyota? So puzzled and dismayed... help please!

I'm thinking more related to too low an engine idle, perhaps due to a misfire (which should light the engine light) or a vacuum leak (which would probably not light the light). Your tachometer should show about 700 rpm at warm idle in neutral.

There can be many reasons for low engine idle, including, as witnessx suggests, some electrical issue. I don't think this is transmission related.

so yeah, check for vacuum leaks and test the battery and alternator first off.

It's also possible that cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensors might help.

I want to thank to two of you who repsonded to my email. Im mechanically illerate as well as new to this type of forum. I was very warmed to even get a response, and I want to thank you for taking your time to help a total stranger. I have cleaned the MAF sensor, as well as tighten a few loose valves and the car has not died since!!!!! Im very happy, releived and much safer.

Have a 2001 infiniti i30 having a problem with it spittin and sputtern when it gets to 40 mph it catches up and runs fine till it gets to 60 mph if i try to excelerate past 60 it starts chuggin and then its like its not doin anything. Starter went out and it sat for about a month replaced starter and spark plugs and belts. Mechanic who replaced starter said its like it doesnt want to shift into that second gear mentioned throttle sensor or possible water in fuel. It seems to chug worse goin uphill.

I have replaced transsmission oil(don't know the oil is good) and brakes with rotor, after that whenever I brake my car, my car stops, but when I put the leg back on gas paddle, it doesn'st start running immediately, I have to push a lot on the gas paddle. I show it to the fire stone guy and he says transmission slips and putting new transsmission oil may help.

I have the exact same car and having the same problem i just wouldn't call mine convulsive though. It started cutting out a few days ago (just while driving) Now its even doing it while it sits and idols. The check engine light is on and its got a heavy vibration and misen while in drive,1,2 but purrs like a kitten in park or neutral (can't even hear it running). I got autozone to do a diagnostics check on it and it read that the oxygen sencor had an error but not a malfunction. ? I was told it may be the coil packs or plugs, its not my air filter i know that, it looks brand new. I'll give you any information i receive, hope you'll do the same for me.

Someone, please help, i'm still financing this car, can't afford it to get any worse. I've had it less than a week and don't know much about it, but it was as smooth as could be the first 2 or 3 days i had it

its a common problem with the i30. Its actually the MAF sensor(Mass Air Flow sensor), which is located right after the air filter. It looks like a 8 inch wide cylinder. It can cause your car to [1: make a pinging noise when your at about 2500 rpm. 2: feel sluggish 3: shutting down your car while idling (this is when the sensor is just dirty as hell and read the air intake properly so your car chokes and shuts off cause the ecu tells it to.) This part is only made by infiniti so you should buy a new one, not used! I think you can clean the one you already have using some sort of cleaning spray (i forgot what its called) and it should temporarly fix your problem for super cheap so you know its the MAF sensor giving you problems. This part can cost like 400-600$ depending on where you live but its very easy to change cause its right behind the air filter. It would take a good mechanic about 15-20 minutes max to do it. You may experience this problem before your light even came on and even if a light comes on, it doesn't actually tell you its the MAF sensor. Once you get the MAF sensor replaced try to clean out your air filter box and everthing before that so you don't dirty your new MAF sensor again. I hope this helps.

Okay so my car was over heating and then shuts off, i replaced the cracked radiator and the waterpump. after that that the car turned on fine 4 times. something was clicking so they tightened the tensioner after that my car would not turn on. if i listen closely while the hood is up i can hear some trying to rotate but stops. what can this be, so i have an idea on what needs to b done?

My Infiniti i30 will not shift out of first gear after the car has been idling for a period of time for example 5-10 minutes. If I turn the engine off and let the car sit the shifting returns. The check engine light came on and we had diagnostics ran but nothing returned. The light stayed off for 3 days and is now back on. Any suggestions?

Have an I30 that when driving it, it acts like it was suddenly shifted into neutral. Beyond a certain speed the engine just revs. I can stop the car, turn it off, then start it again, and it's fine. Doesn't happen often and not very consistantly either. No check engine light comes on. Transmission fluid is fine. I've seen some google search posts about a control valve, but no more details, and dealer doesn't seem to know.

Same issue with my car but the check engine light was on. I had two O2 sensors changed which corrected the engine light and a speed sensor to correct the shifting. This was after spending over $600 to have the throttle body replaced which is what I was told was the problem. So far after having a new speed sensor the car has been fine.

I had the same problem a few years ago and so has a lot of people. When its doing that and the check engine light is not on, its 95% chance its your MAF sensor (mass air flow). Only infinity sells this part and can cost 400-600$ depending where you live. Its extremely easy to install, its right after the intake. If you take out your air filter, you will see from inside this cylinder looking mesh right after the air filter. That's the MAF sensor. Apparently you can use some sort of spray (i forgot which) to clean it but it won't after a few trips. Try to find how to clean it and then drive your car around and see how it feels. If its slighly better, then u need to change it.