JT ER2

So my local K-Mart is going out of business and there are massive sales. One of which brings the ER2 pump kit down to $27 (better than $40 from Walmart) so I picked the last one up for a project marker.

There are three main goals I have for this:

1) set it up to use a hopper
2) set it up to use timmy detents to decrease on ball breaks
3) set it up to use an HPA tank.

The first two are braindead easy, but the third is not. I want the line to come out of the bottom so I need to modify a CO2 cartige, problem is that a standard HP tank's pressure is too high. Would a LP tank work safely and still keep the balls up to speed?

the only hard part is converting it to HPA, don't make a dummy co2 cartridge, they crack and tend to send whatever fitting you're using flying....usually into something valuable...like your knuckles. I did a similar project like this, but never ended up putting a hopper on it, though i don't imagine it would be very hard. I was planning on using a piece of PVC pipe but never got around to it. Mine has a quick disconnect fitting for a remote line.

the only hard part is converting it to HPA, don't make a dummy co2 cartridge, they crack and tend to send whatever fitting you're using flying....usually into something valuable...like your knuckles. I did a similar project like this, but never ended up putting a hopper on it, though i don't imagine it would be very hard. I was planning on using a piece of PVC pipe but never got around to it. Mine has a quick disconnect fitting for a remote line.

The hopper would simply be taking part of one of the 10rd tubes and using an angles spyder feedneck on the other end, a miniscule amount of plastic bonding agent later you have a working feedneck.

I was actually looking at the little 12g fitting thing and I was wondering if it's standard threaded? If it is could I just screw it out and put a fitting from either a remote line or a macro fitting on it?

the only hard part is converting it to HPA, don't make a dummy co2 cartridge, they crack and tend to send whatever fitting you're using flying....usually into something valuable...like your knuckles. I did a similar project like this, but never ended up putting a hopper on it, though i don't imagine it would be very hard. I was planning on using a piece of PVC pipe but never got around to it. Mine has a quick disconnect fitting for a remote line.

The hopper would simply be taking part of one of the 10rd tubes and using an angles spyder feedneck on the other end, a miniscule amount of plastic bonding agent later you have a working feedneck.

I was actually looking at the little 12g fitting thing and I was wondering if it's standard threaded? If it is could I just screw it out and put a fitting from either a remote line or a macro fitting on it?

I thought the same thing when I saw it, unfortunately it's not. It's a metric thread and it's very small. I couldn't find any adapters at lowes for it, so I ended up drilling out the valve and re-tapping it for a standard thread. It would have been nice because it would have saved a ton of work and still allowed the use of 12g's.

I thought the same thing when I saw it, unfortunately it's not. It's a metric thread and it's very small. I couldn't find any adapters at lowes for it, so I ended up drilling out the valve and re-tapping it for a standard thread. It would have been nice because it would have saved a ton of work and still allowed the use of 12g's.

Well that does suck, but I might do the same thing you did and tap it so I can put either a remote line on it or I might actually end up creating some sort of ASA rig to put on it.

Working on it, I might as well get one up seeing as my remote might get here on Friday.

On a related note, does USPS do package drop off on saturday or just regular mail?

EDIT: Yes, that is a spyder feedneck. I cut up one of the included 10 round tubes and evenly wrapped it in electrical tape then shoved it into the feedneck then used electrical tape on the feedneck and the marker to secure the feedneck even more.

Nope. As of yet, I haven't had the money to buy a tap and haven't seen a need to have it being I won't have anywhere to work on it until we get our garage finished anyway.

Also, I think the threads for the puncture pin are the same as the ones used on the eclipse macro fittings for the POPS and the Ego 11/Geo 2.1 swivel. If that's the case then I will just screw one of those in and then run a piece of macro down to an ASA that I would put in the grip.

I hope you don't mind me bumping up your thread, I just couldn't keep myself from showing what I did with my ER2 and clearing up some misinformation that was given. This will probably be a long response so in order to bait and set the hook, I will post up a picture of my modded ER2 as well as the CA adapter I made for it.

Now that I have your attention, you do not need a custom made elbow to fit on the feedneck. The ER2's feedneck measures 1" OD. So far I have been able to find only one manufacturer of elbows that are in 1" ID. They are made by Pro-Team Products and they call if the Pro-feed. I'm not going to link the website, but you can Google it rather easily. Here is a picture of how the elbow looks on the marker with a hopper attached.

Now, to address the issue with a CA adapter. First of all the threads on the plastic plug are not metric, they are standard. It is 1/2" thread, the problem is the OD of the threads on the plug are not the typical OD for something with 1/2" threads. Here is a picture of the threads close up on the adapter.

I just want to head off any questions about measurements as I would need to get out the calipers because it has been well over a year since I made this so exact measurements are not readily available. I wanted the option of being able to use 12 grams or constant air, that was why I made the adapter. If I was to make this again, I would probably taper the end to make it look more like a 12 gram instead of stair stepping it. I would also make the turn knob smaller and do something different with grips on it. My knurling tool is rather old and worn out, I would probably mill vertical slots in it. The best part about making it smaller is the material would be cheaper since I started out with 1 1/2" aluminum rod.

In hindsight, the turn knob on the adapter could be smaller but at the time I wanted something that fit my hands better. I also wanted to make it so the knob wouldn't touch the grip on the marker. I realize this is probably a "dummy" feature on the plastic plug being short enough so it will stop against the grip rather than be overtightened and strip the threads or ruin the seal on the puncture pin.

Once again, this was built completely from scratch with the only measurements to go from were a spent 12 gram and the factory plastic plug. Now that I have this first prototype adapter, making more would be easier. As of now, I simply do not have the time to offer making these for those interested. With that said, here are some more pictures to gander at.

I hope you don't mind me bumping up your thread, I just couldn't keep myself from showing what I did with my ER2 and clearing up some misinformation that was given. This will probably be a long response so in order to bait and set the hook, I will post up a picture of my modded ER2 as well as the CA adapter I made for it.

Now that I have your attention, you do not need a custom made elbow to fit on the feedneck. The ER2's feedneck measures 1" OD. So far I have been able to find only one manufacturer of elbows that are in 1" ID. They are made by Pro-Team Products and they call if the Pro-feed. I'm not going to link the website, but you can Google it rather easily. Here is a picture of how the elbow looks on the marker with a hopper attached.

Now, to address the issue with a CA adapter. First of all the threads on the plastic plug are not metric, they are standard. It is 1/2" thread, the problem is the OD of the threads on the plug are not the typical OD for something with 1/2" threads. Here is a picture of the threads close up on the adapter.

I just want to head off any questions about measurements as I would need to get out the calipers because it has been well over a year since I made this so exact measurements are not readily available. I wanted the option of being able to use 12 grams or constant air, that was why I made the adapter. If I was to make this again, I would probably taper the end to make it look more like a 12 gram instead of stair stepping it. I would also make the turn knob smaller and do something different with grips on it. My knurling tool is rather old and worn out, I would probably mill vertical slots in it. The best part about making it smaller is the material would be cheaper since I started out with 1 1/2" aluminum rod.

In hindsight, the turn knob on the adapter could be smaller but at the time I wanted something that fit my hands better. I also wanted to make it so the knob wouldn't touch the grip on the marker. I realize this is probably a "dummy" feature on the plastic plug being short enough so it will stop against the grip rather than be overtightened and strip the threads or ruin the seal on the puncture pin.

Once again, this was built completely from scratch with the only measurements to go from were a spent 12 gram and the factory plastic plug. Now that I have this first prototype adapter, making more would be easier. As of now, I simply do not have the time to offer making these for those interested. With that said, here are some more pictures to gander at.

Would a general engineering shop be able to make this?Could you please give info as to what you did.

Would a general engineering shop be able to make this?Could you please give info as to what you did.

Distances, thread size etc?

how do you ensure airtight seal?

Sorry, I didn't mean to ignore you...I just never expected someone to respond to my post. I did respone to your private message but I can answer a few questions for you.

Yes any machinist shop can make this adapter, as there are only two critical parts needed to make this. An empty 12 gram CO2 cartridge and the factory plug. That'll give you every reference point you will need to make the adapter. As far as the length and width, I cannot give you that information at this time because I'm at work and I never wrote that down and so I would have to remeasure everything. I can tell you that if I were to do it again some of the widths would be different as well as just tapering the front to look just like a 12 gram would.

The hardest part is getting someone to put the threads on it due to it's irregularity. The threads are 13 tpi, more commonly known as 1/2" thread. Here lies in the problem, the outside diameter of the threads on the stock plug are not 1/2"; they are more like 3/4" to 7/8" but I don't remember exactly considering I did this almost two years ago. Fortunately for myself, I have a threading machine and even more fortunately I was able to just barely get it to put the 13 tpi threads on this adapter. You could set a lathe up to cut the threads, but since I already had the machine to do the job...it kind of made sense to go that route.

As far as ensuring a proper seal. The adapter works just like a 12 gram does. The end of the adapter is pressed up against the cup seal of the pierce pin and that creates the air tight seal. The adapter is drilled all the way through, but plenty of sidewall is left for structural integrity, so it very much acts like an expansion chamber. At the bottom, below the turn knob, I tapped the hole to accept 1/8" pipe threads and threaded in a 1/8" quick-disconnect air fitting so I could connect a remote coil to it. I'll eventually take that off and put on a 1/8" 45* block and then put the air fitting in that for a better angle to connect the remote to.

I hope this was of some help to you. Like I mentioned in the private message. I toyed with the thought of making some more so I could sell to other ER2 owners, but realized to set the price low enough that people would buy it would put it at below profit and would still be as much or more than what the ER2 could be purchased for. If you or anyone has anymore questions feel free to post here or pm me. I'll see if I can set up a subscription to the thread.

Would a general engineering shop be able to make this?Could you please give info as to what you did.

Distances, thread size etc?

how do you ensure airtight seal?

Sorry, I didn't mean to ignore you...I just never expected someone to respond to my post. I did respone to your private message but I can answer a few questions for you.

Yes any machinist shop can make this adapter, as there are only two critical parts needed to make this. An empty 12 gram CO2 cartridge and the factory plug. That'll give you every reference point you will need to make the adapter. As far as the length and width, I cannot give you that information at this time because I'm at work and I never wrote that down and so I would have to remeasure everything. I can tell you that if I were to do it again some of the widths would be different as well as just tapering the front to look just like a 12 gram would.

The hardest part is getting someone to put the threads on it due to it's irregularity. The threads are 13 tpi, more commonly known as 1/2" thread. Here lies in the problem, the outside diameter of the threads on the stock plug are not 1/2"; they are more like 3/4" to 7/8" but I don't remember exactly considering I did this almost two years ago. Fortunately for myself, I have a threading machine and even more fortunately I was able to just barely get it to put the 13 tpi threads on this adapter. You could set a lathe up to cut the threads, but since I already had the machine to do the job...it kind of made sense to go that route.

As far as ensuring a proper seal. The adapter works just like a 12 gram does. The end of the adapter is pressed up against the cup seal of the pierce pin and that creates the air tight seal. The adapter is drilled all the way through, but plenty of sidewall is left for structural integrity, so it very much acts like an expansion chamber. At the bottom, below the turn knob, I tapped the hole to accept 1/8" pipe threads and threaded in a 1/8" quick-disconnect air fitting so I could connect a remote coil to it. I'll eventually take that off and put on a 1/8" 45* block and then put the air fitting in that for a better angle to connect the remote to.

I hope this was of some help to you. Like I mentioned in the private message. I toyed with the thought of making some more so I could sell to other ER2 owners, but realized to set the price low enough that people would buy it would put it at below profit and would still be as much or more than what the ER2 could be purchased for. If you or anyone has anymore questions feel free to post here or pm me. I'll see if I can set up a subscription to the thread.

I am going to try model this in REVIT and get someone to 3D print it.

Will report back if and when I get it sorted the CAD file for future use.

Would a general engineering shop be able to make this?Could you please give info as to what you did.

Distances, thread size etc?

how do you ensure airtight seal?

Sorry, I didn't mean to ignore you...I just never expected someone to respond to my post. I did respone to your private message but I can answer a few questions for you.

Yes any machinist shop can make this adapter, as there are only two critical parts needed to make this. An empty 12 gram CO2 cartridge and the factory plug. That'll give you every reference point you will need to make the adapter. As far as the length and width, I cannot give you that information at this time because I'm at work and I never wrote that down and so I would have to remeasure everything. I can tell you that if I were to do it again some of the widths would be different as well as just tapering the front to look just like a 12 gram would.

The hardest part is getting someone to put the threads on it due to it's irregularity. The threads are 13 tpi, more commonly known as 1/2" thread. Here lies in the problem, the outside diameter of the threads on the stock plug are not 1/2"; they are more like 3/4" to 7/8" but I don't remember exactly considering I did this almost two years ago. Fortunately for myself, I have a threading machine and even more fortunately I was able to just barely get it to put the 13 tpi threads on this adapter. You could set a lathe up to cut the threads, but since I already had the machine to do the job...it kind of made sense to go that route.

As far as ensuring a proper seal. The adapter works just like a 12 gram does. The end of the adapter is pressed up against the cup seal of the pierce pin and that creates the air tight seal. The adapter is drilled all the way through, but plenty of sidewall is left for structural integrity, so it very much acts like an expansion chamber. At the bottom, below the turn knob, I tapped the hole to accept 1/8" pipe threads and threaded in a 1/8" quick-disconnect air fitting so I could connect a remote coil to it. I'll eventually take that off and put on a 1/8" 45* block and then put the air fitting in that for a better angle to connect the remote to.

I hope this was of some help to you. Like I mentioned in the private message. I toyed with the thought of making some more so I could sell to other ER2 owners, but realized to set the price low enough that people would buy it would put it at below profit and would still be as much or more than what the ER2 could be purchased for. If you or anyone has anymore questions feel free to post here or pm me. I'll see if I can set up a subscription to the thread.

I am going to try model this in REVIT and get someone to 3D print it.

Will report back if and when I get it sorted the CAD file for future use.