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Climb the legendary hill of Belleville and you’ll probably walk right past 6036, chef Haruka Casters’s sliver of an izakaya. While young Japanese chefs have long made a habit of traveling to Paris to work in its many temples of haute cuisine—like L’Arpège, Guy Savoy, and Le Louis XV— Casters belongs to a generation of chefs who prefer going it alone. The restaurant offers a rotating roster of ten à la carte shareable plates each night, such as a green salad tossed with a tarragon and beet vinaigrette, or a dish of clams sautéed with sake and green cabbage. And the matcha crème brûlée embodies what might be called Nouvelle Japonais.