Slicing Up Naples

Continued (page 5 of 5)

I used to think Bologna had the worst
restaurants in Italy, but Naples deserves
the title. I suppose I should be disheartened,
considering I had arrived with such
high expectations, but I am not giving up
my quest to find an Italian metropolis
with acceptable eating establishments.
There remains one more major city on
my itinerary—Palermo, the urban heart
of Sicily.

I’ve heard wonderful things about the
food of Palermo. As I understand it, the
port area is paved with trattorias that offer
still-writhing fish from which one might
select a fine lunch. I recently read that the
sautéed breaded veal chops “in the style of
Palermo” are unsurpassed, and I’ve long
wished to try a few cassata siciliana, the famous
molded pastries rolled in almond
paste. Yes, I’m sure Palermo is the answer.
It has to be. The next city south is Tripoli,
and I’m not going there to eat.