Because if I’m doing a direct comparison, I need all new power tool accessories and at least 2 of everything. I visited my nearest Home Depot to pick up some needed drill bit, screwdriver bits, bit holders, nutdriver bits, and impact sockets.

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I have an impact driver comparison on my to-do list. I don’t really buy non-impact driver bits anymore. I will sometimes, but generally only for hand tools.

If it goes in a drill, 9 times out of 10 it’s an impact-rated bit. It’s easier than keeping non-impact and impact bits on hand.

When I got back and started putting my purchases away, I realized something. I have a very strong preference for Milwaukee Shockwave impact-rated bits. I even bought some Shockwave RedHelix drill bits.

I can’t tell you if Milwaukee’s bits are best. But in my experience, they hold up well and are reasonably priced.

Some of their small accessory packs aren’t the best value – I paid $4 for just (2) T20 power bits, but it’s what I found in-store. Insert bits would have been more economical, but I wanted longer power bits and don’t need a lot.

I like Bosch’s newly designed impact driver bits too – and ordered a couple more packs online. But it’ll take time before it arrives, and I need to get the drill testing started ASAP.

I’ll have a separate post about what I bought for testing and why, but wanted to share my realization of how much appeal I saw in the Milwaukee Shockwave accessories.

I also bought a set of Shockwave drill bits and a Shockwave screwdriver bit set for the DIYer tool kit guide I’m working on.

Whenever I go on a tool or supply run at Home Depot, I end up coming up with a lot of Milwaukee Red. Part of that is because of Home Depot’s tool brand partnerships and relationships. I like Bosch and Dewalt accessories, but I have quicker and easier access to a wider selection of Milwaukee Shockwave accessories.

69 Comments

My favorite Philips bits are the diamond coated Wera bits. I was never much of a fan of the shockwave bits. I found that for me in Philips screws they tended towards stripping easier than I wanted.
Maybe its just me, but the “Impact Rated” hasn’t really been an issue. I’ve had a grand total of one non impact rated bit explode on me and only when I was over tightening the fastener.
Now on spade bits, I love Daredevil spade bits. That’s a “I will looking through my tools until I find one” level of preference.

Plus one on the Wera Impaktor diamond coated bits. I have not tried Milwaukee bits recently. In general though we bought PH2 bits in bulk packs – tossing them a soon as they showed any wear. Based on availability – it was mostly Dewalt.

Professionally, we were never big users of spade bits – but for auger bits we had very good luck with the Wood Owl Brand and liked them better than the Bosch Nail Killer brand:

Plus two on Wera. Love the new color coded line of power bits with the size labeled on the color band. Felo bits are also really good. I absolutely hated the first line of Shokwave bits. Discovered Wera/Felo and never touched a Shokwave bit since.

Working on a professional haunted attraction over the years, I’ve ‘blown up’ more #2 non-impact rated philips head bits than I can count. Picked a ton of them up off the floor as well. (We use 1½” and 3″ drywall screws into 2×4’s for most everything) I’ve never had an impact rated one break on me though, even when dropped tip first from an 8 foot ladder onto hardened concrete. (Saw the chip in the floor where it hit. Found out it was “hardened, machine floor” concrete when we tried putting anchors in the floor. Dropping your impact driver on the concrete to test bits is NOT recommended. The Makita did survive though.)

As to brand preference for the impact ones, I’ve used Makita, Bosch, DeWalt, Milwaukee, and “unknown” branded ones, all seemed about the same. The DeWalts seemed to wear down more, but in fairness, they also were the most used by everyone.

If you’re using impact drivers, they’re pretty much a must. Safety glasses or eye glasses are a must also. My regular glasses have two dings where bits exploded and hit them. (Not enough to go through regular polycarb eyeglass lenses, but enough force that it would have sent me to the hospital probably.)

uhmm, whatever bit is handy, and from a quality brand. They are a consumable, and I have enough P2 and S2 1″ bits to last me a LONG time so I’ve got no compunctions about binning ’em. When I buy new bits, a fairly rare occurrence nowadays, I tend towards DeWalt. That said, the last bits I bought were actually Makita, I wanted to try out their 6″ double ended bits.

I’m almost to the point where, if I’m buying a “kit”, I’m more interested in whether or not the case will do what I want than the contents.

While I generally don’t use or like Dewalt bits I will give an exception for just the Philips bit and have to agree with you. As you noted for Philips screws, the “Phillips power bits: Dewalt MaxFit” is pretty stand out as far as an insert bit.

When it comes to bits whatever is on sale there isn’t enough difference between Milwaukee,Dewalt,Makita and Bosch they are all pretty good but for recip blades I like milwaukee jigsaw blades Bosch circ blades Dewalt

I used to get milwaukee recip blades pretty regularly, but bought a pack of Diablo carbide blades over a year ago and haven’t bought a single replacement since.

I know milwaukee makes carbide options, too…they just weren’t hanging right in front of the tool section at the time.

I’m with you, though. Specifically with bits i’ve never found a noticeable difference between any of the major brands. Can’t say i’ve ever been ‘let down’ by any of those i’ve tried, anyway. Lately i’ve just been sticking with dewalt ‘torque flex’ or w/e they call it because the box was on sale, and they all fit well in my slide lock bit holder thing. It’s the quality of the fasteners; that’s an entirely different animal.

Lowes has had the Bosch kits on sale for a few weeks and I have picked up a few. The first time I tried one of the Phillips impact bits it shattered. I use their T25 from the same kit constantly and haven’t had any issues. Perhaps it was a fluke, but I have always had great luck with the Milwaukee red bits. I guess it comes down to whats on hand.

I like the Wiha XLSelector set, link below. Most of what I need regularly is in there, including a 2″ extension / power chuck adaptor, it fits easily in a flat pocket, and the case keeps the sharp edges of the bits from tearing up whatever else might be bouncing around in your bag.

Could not imagine using Philip’s screws for everything . We use Robertson’s up here . Much easier to start a screw overhead or at a 90 . Much better torque transfer on the square bit. Y’all should try em sometime . Only drywallers use Philip’s up here . Also pre packaged hardware for doors is usually Philip’s. Also on electrical covers it is sometimes a Philip’s. That being what it is . Nearly any Robertson #2 or square #2 for our southern cousins . Works good enough for me . I do have a set of the Milwaukee bits and I use them often . They were recently replaced by some no name ones however .

This is an old debate I know…but I prefer Phillips because you don’t need to hold the bit perfectly parallel to the faster in order to turn it. Phillips gives more flexibility to how one holds the drill or driver.

There are “wobble” or “ball” Robertson bits, just like for hex bits, that let you drive them at a pretty good angle. I suppose they are easier to break than regular (the neck creates a stress concentration) but I haven’t managed it.

I have to second the Robertson screws. They are less fatiguing to drive, because they need no downward pressure. Great for overhead or 90 deg driving, as Yeti says, but even for downward situations, they are better. I have had to press on a driver with nearly my entire body weight to keep a phillips bit from camming out.

Now retired, my hobby is building furniture – mostly made mimic pieces of a bygone era. Exposed screws, when used, are therefore slotted head – mostly brass. I do cheat a bit if the casework includes face frames – then pocket hole screws will be Phillips.

This is as with my experience. Though I don’t make the most epic historically correct furniture it’s an overlooked part on the fastener maker. Like the Spax screws. While I could live with exposed torx or Robertson heads, I can’t deal with their putting a big logo Spax name on the head. It essentially rules that our for making anything but “shop furniture”.

Me neither – I’m happy if my pieces look good and the recipients like them. I don’t have much in the way of aesthetic-design ability – so most everything I do are copies of something else – or based on plans.

Spax (Altenloh, Brinck) do make some really good screws – just better for places where they won’t be staring at your face.

For reproductions its also about trying not to be anachronistic. Phillips head screws date from the 1930’s. You you would never see them on a piece of furniture made in the Federal period.
I’m not trying to deceive, but my take is to try to make my projects look correct. I’m by no means a purist nor do I have the skills necessary to be one. So I use some modern conveniences like a table saw, other power tools, sandpaper, sprayed on finish, wire nails, modern glues, milled lumber, etc. When I have the time and inclination, I mix in older techniques like: hand planning; hand sawing; using a gutter adze to scoop out a chair seat; using a brace with spoon bits or auger bits for boring; hand cutting/chopping dovetails; using a rasp or float to shape wood; using hot hide glue and a veneer hammer instead of a vacuum bag; using cut nails; brushing on and French polishing a finish; etc.

With Ridgid-branded items, while probably very good, I’d be cautious about consistency. Home Depot has licensed the brand from Emerson – and some of the Ridgid drill bits and driver bits sold at HD are produced by (or sourced through) Emerson (UPC’s starting with 648846) and some by Disston or Blu-Mol – both R.A.F. Industries subsidiaries (UPC’s starting with 035781). It might be possible that HD could source them form other OEM’s as well.

Weird. I have a set of Shockwave drill bits and drive bits, and I find the drivers — especially the Philips — are far worse than my go-to Bosch set, the 21-piece in a compact case. I love the case because it doubles as a portable magnetic parts tray, but I find the bits also strip out a lot less and last longer. Only complaint is the lack of flatheads, but how often are you using those in a driver anyway.

Personally I like any bit that drives the fasteners in without cam out & doesn’t chew up the screw head. Which is why I use deckmates or any torx screw for general fastening & hedlok spiderbolts for structural as well as the nail schedule. But it entirely depends on how well the fasteners are made & not necessarily which brand of bit is used for the application. I hate slotted & philips screws for any type of fastening being that they are made with the purpose of cam out. Square drives ain’t much better. My preference is a long or short sliding sleeve bit holder for fastening screws using short drivers. There’s not much difference in “impact ready” or regular drive bits other than the color & advertising hype.

Its a conversation that keeps coming back up, and I haven’t yet changed my opinion.

I find it interesting that so many people like the Maxfit bits. They’re great for machine screws and sheet metal screws but absolutely awful on drywall screws. Since most of what I use is drywall and construction screws, I’m not a big fan of the Maxfit bits.

I’ve always been a DeWalt bit fan tho, even before the first Impact Ready line when they only had their standard bits. I worked in a shop that stocked Irwin (which I can’t stand) and would often buy my own DeWalt bits then.

The combination of bit. screw recess, screw material, driver and operator technique is often imperfect. Repetitive driving of screws applying these “imperfections” result in bit wear. Bits should therefor, be thought of as consumables like we would a recip-saw blades or sandpaper.

I usually find apex at industrial supply houses locally or online through a google search, amazon and EBay for ok prices. There are 3 hard eases available for most of their bits but i favor x (hardest) even in an impact and have never had them shatter. However, after owning and using a ton of apex among other brands, I’m not convinced that they’re better than Vega, zypher, qualtool, Montana, wera or other industrial brands. I’ve found wiha bulk bits to be as good or better than most if I include cost into the equation. Especially with Phillips bits. I just practice a habit of replace my Phillips bits after the first cam out. It’s the most expensive and consequently one of the worst performing drive systems for all contemporary fastening techniques. I never buy Phillips fasteners unless there’s an advantage to having a low torque fastener system such as extremely small screws. I prefer higher torque systems such as torx but not having a stick fit between the fastener recess and the bit can be a frustration. The torx-align and wedge-fit torx solutions work well for a stick fit but they increase can out forces because of the geometry. Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee and Bosch all make impact bits and standard bits that perform well and are immediately accessible as well. My philosophy: Just buy the best performing bits that you can with convenience, ruin them right away, throw them away, and then replace them constantly.

I agree, I love Milwaukee, and wanted to love their shockwave bits too, but after trying the Makita gold bits I couldn’t lie to myself, because the evidenced prove they just sucked. The gold bits are superior in gripping and driving screws compared to the sucky shockwaves.
I would have been happy with just using the gold bits, if they weren’t so dinky small. I went and bought a complete set of different size Wiha Impact bits and never turned back.

I like the Milwaukee bits EXCEPT P2, which is the fastener I use as much as possible. I have found that cam-out isn’t a problem with any fastener with impactors, as such I get a lot of mileage out of Makita gold tips. I like the color coded nut drivers as well as the 1/4″ bit extensions (good magnets and bit retention).

I purchased a set of 1st gen Milwaukee Shockwaves and was underwhelmed. For Philips head fasteners I have found KnifeEdge bits superior for both driving and removing. In complete disclosure, I did support their crowdfunded project to bring their product to market. The design was intended to overcome the original design intent of the Phillips bits. They were originally intended to prevent over-torquing by camming out. It was a cheap way of making assembly line workers from over tightening screws without giving them torque limiting screwdrivers. The KnifeEdge bits are ground with a different profile intended to bite and grab the head of the fastener.
Otherwise, square or Robertson bits and fasteners avoid those issues.

I have quite the variety of bits, I’m finding myself reaching for the new Bosch impact bits quite often…. I personally am not a fan of Milwaukee’s bits, they aren’t bad but just average in my book, same goes for Makita gold. I haven’t really played with the exotic brands except for Zypher which I loved.

DeWalt MaxFit and Makita Gold for insert bits.
DeWalt holders.
Bosch masonry and multi material bits.
Bosch auger bits.
Bosch spades for stuff that’s overhead, precision, or I don’t want to blow the back out. Harbor Frieght spades for everything else.
I have a set of Milwaukee cobalt index bits and so far they’re excellent. I had to drill some hardened steel roll pins, went right through em. Jobbers for wood.
Lenox hole saws
Nut drivers and sockets – don’t work them hard enough so whatever’s cheap.

DEWALT FLEXTORQ got it right the first time. Several reviews and physical proof the 1st generation Milwaukee Shockwave bits bent and spiraled under stress. 3 years, still impacting on the very first flextorq 1″ PH2 out of the set. Drywall screws, wood screws, sheet metal screws, stainless, tapcons. All on that one bit. Only 2 of the flats/slotted broke, but that was from user misuse.

Even the MaxFit are good for typical use. Makita Gold would be my next inline choice. I stay away from Milwaukee Shockwave bit drivers. The drilling red helix bits are good though.

I too like the shockwave line in general, especially the red helix drill bits. As others have noted, the P2 bits strip out very quickly, for that I prefer the DeWalt flextorque. As an aside, DeWalt really has to change the confusing marketing on the maxfit line eg. unless you already cracked a few bits in an impact driver you don’t realize it’s not impact rated. They even show a picture of an impact on the packaging. Also they have an indent on the neck (for their proprietary magnetic screw retention system) so it looks like an impact bit

First of all. Ive found that bits work and last WAY better when used with a impact driver. In regards to the milwaukee shockwave bits i have also like them a LOT. My old go to was a irwin set that was impact rated but they dont make that bit set anymore which led me to the milwaukee. My all time favorite is the makita gold bits. BUT has anyone seen dewalts new bit holder? Its designed to “not break dewalt bits” its a chunky oversized bit holder that dewalt must have determined was needed because their bits are brittle. I was going to take a picture to send to toolguyd but i didnt lol.
On another note i finally got a pulse impact driver and WOW it is awesome. It certainly takes some getting used to to hear how the screws are setting but it sure is nice when your driving screws all day. It makes me want to wear ear pro if i do have to use a regular impact driver.

2nd Gen Milwaukee, based on price/assortment/quality. I’m not one to buy 25 of just PH2 or such. I still have a case of Irwin bits that I have been quite please as well. I do like some of their longer bits that have different size ends on them. I like Dewalt nut drivers, but that’s because they are the swivel heads ones. As of now, my only set of twist bits are the Milwaukee Impact Titatnium, which I have been more than pleased with, and they really are only used in an impact driver or m12 screwdriver (which is sort of why I like having hex shank drill bits).

As I usually get the Irwins at Lowes, I have been tempted to try the Bosch bits next to them. They ‘look’ nice, which means nothing, so maybe you can try a few in your review just to get an initial impression Stuart?

I’ve had good experience with Felo, Apex, Wera and some Bosch. Milwaukee and DeWalt have been the worst in my experience. The DeWalts I’ve used were more prone to snap or chip. The Milwaukee were bad about twisting.

I also remember when replacing a 1/2 drill chuck on a drill about a year or two ago, I tried a newly purchased Milwaukee 11-in-1 type (don’t remember the exact number) screwdriver, with the included torx bit to unscrew the chuck screw (reverse threads). The Torx bit promptly twisted and looked like a corkscrew when I took it out. Used a Felo (I think it was) and it worked great.

My Apex bits are a number of years old, before their company changes over the last few years, so I don’t know if they’re still made the same way. But, those old bits have continued to serve me well for a long time!

Currently I use the DeWalt FlexTorq, but I chewed through a couple of the philips bits last year prepping for Hurricane Matthew. I’ve got a pack of Makita Impact Gold I haven’t opened yet and some of the newer Bosch Impact Tough (silver necks) on the way so I’m curious to see how they hold up.

Generally tho, the FlexTorq’s have been ok for me. I’m only doing DIY and amateur light woodworking so nothing too taxing. Mostly drywall screws and occasionally the odd tapcon into concrete.

The new Bosch p2r2 bits are my new fav. They are fantastic when used on Phillips screws and just seems to fit perfectly in any screw I use it on. The r2(square) use sucks tho, but again when used as Phillips it’s a lot better than the Milwaukee and makita gold that I used in the past.

Best quality bits I’ve used by far are Wera. Second place goes to Dewalt, never really any issues with any of their impact rated stuff. The newer Bosch double ended stuff has been good so far. I haven’t used Milwaukee bits(especially the phillips) in a while but they were garbage when they first came out. Makita Gold, Ridgid, and Irwin are garbage as well.

I find I use the Milwaukee shockwaves from my largish set most. The quality is decent, but the reason I use them is that the sets I’ve had come with various lengths and slim shafts rather than a stubby bit in a holder, which often gets in the way. I do have some Makita golds but not having a regular end, instead a double-sided/ended bit just puts me off a little somehow. But I usually use the Milwaukee for diy situations and it’s nice to have everything I need right there in one kit.

For woodworking that’s not diy, I nearly always use square/robertson screws from Woodcraft sometimes Rockler. Their Highpoint dry-lube screws are great, often used with beeswax and just go in like butter, never cracking wood, etc. I use the Highpoint bits with those screws. They seem the right length most of the time. There may be better screws, but these are pretty nice.

I never get the thing with people loving Spax screws. A friend of mine does. To me, the heads seem awkward being half phillips and half square drive, doing neither well. I use them for shop furniture usually since they’re cheap and available within a 5 minute drive. But I’m just a hobbyist. If I did this for a living, it would be different.

I would agree with the comments regarding Milwaukee bits particularly as I believe Europe was sent the first series. My personal favourites are Fein bits although the range is limited and they tend to be only available direct from the company at trade shows, followed by Wera who I believe make the Metabo bits which accompany my Metabo tool kits. With regard to the Makita Gold the Torx bits work well. All other brands I treat as disposable. With regard to fixings first choice is Torx which over here are not limited to SPAX and their prominent marketing however the prices would make those of you based in the USA cry tears of either sympathy or laughter. I like the Festoon bits but my appetite is severely limited by the price.

The shockwave bits by milwaukee are no good bought a 25 pack of 2 inch phillips bits and broke the first one on first try the rest are the same cheap bits will never buy again. used to be made here all about profit so lets do china. I will pay good money for good products. Mind you I sold all my american made tools after buying a festool sander and replaced everything with german made products.

I find myself turning to my Milwaukee impact bits for pretty much any and every job. They’ve done me solid over the past 2+ years. When it comes time to replace them I’ll be going right back to the Milwaukee well.

Installing a lot of lights at a self storage with heavy seismic grade framing that predrilling speed the job up then just the truss head self-tappers.

Normally we use the short magnetic Milwaukee holders and a bit. The magnet was picking up the drill shavings.

I bought a lot of the dewalt 2″-4″? shock tips some would break on the first screw or 5th when the screw bottom out using the 10.8v makita impacts. I was upset when I had two in a row break on me. Now understanding why the guys were going thru them…

I went and bought the double ended Makita bits, finished the job without anymore breaks. They even had a slight magnetic hold.

Were ready to go back to the Milwaukee magnetic holders now. Personally I prefer just the old std bits which I have to pu at the local drywall supply.

Any Phillips screw/bit combination is a recipe for failure and frustration. Once they get stuck in tight, Phillips screws can be a bitch to remove. My choice of hardware is JIS (Japan Industry Standard) bits that remove Phillips screws like they were never stuck, without any camming out, stripping. blood or cursing. Look them up, you won’t look back. I’ve got mine…

I totally agree with Dewalt MaxFit for phillips bits. These are the only bits that will hold by phillips screws without striping in many kinds of situations. I don’t think they are impact rated, but they sure work fine.

Tip of shockwave torx (T-20) bit broke after driving eight 6mmx100mm wood screws with Milwaukee hex impact driver and another one is already twisted after just ten screws. Has there been quality issues or do these just suck?

Got me a Holy Hole bit holder that holds all bits conviently .. My 20 years experience says time is money. The set of Milwaukee impact drivers for torque and square are best with Makita coming in close second but Craftsman Philips bit #2 are best. China and others make bit with wire steel from rolls. That steel is stamped p1 p2 s1 s2 . these markings reflect the quality of steel. They do or don’t require a second firing for quality just any tool steel. P is best then S. The P and S are fired twice which give them hardness .. Without those marking on the bits they are of lesser quality and shame on consumer. The prices are substantially similar though. Shame on Mtg and Vendors. Ever hear of buyer beware or education prevails or knowledge is king. S2 remain the most cost effective. Lest we not forget all screw mtg are a bit different too. We have found the S2 with etched tips are the best overall.
HOPE THAT HELPS THE DEBATE A BIT no a HOLY HOLE BIT HOLDER