The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Per Wesley Hermann, Park Interpreter, Garden of the Gods: All closures are lifted including Tower of Babel

Update as of 8/10/14:

Closures in Garden of the Gods Park for raptor nesting sites have been lifted. This includes the East face of North Gateway, the East Ledges on North Gateway, and the East face of Grey (Kindergarten) Rock. Closures for Migratory Birds are still in effect - this includes the Tower of Babel. We expect this closure to last in to early Fall. Please refer to the map attached. If you have questions, please stop by the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center.

Climbing closures for Tower of Babel.

Prior closures (pre 8/10/14): There are currently two closures in effect, both on North Gateway Rock. The first closures is for the Eastern Face (including the East ledges), which will include routes like Max's Mayhem, Snuggles/Fall Crack, etc. The second closure is for the Tower of Babel on the North end of Gateway Rock, and includes Anaconda, Ryan's Inferno, The Inferno, and Triple Exposure. The routes listed above are for reference, but may not represent all routes affected, and closures may be subject to change. We've provided a map of North gateway showing these closures.

North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel.

North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel.

North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel.

Submitted By: GardenoftheGodsStaff on Mar 5, 2014

Addendum: March 29 - Based on new reports of nesting behavior and of raptors exhibiting signs of stress/defending their nesting sites, we are updating our closures to include Big Sky and Sand in the Vaseline (aka The Route to the Left) on the East face of Grey Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock). Other routes on the East face near the South Summit such as New Era will remain open, but we ask that climbers approach these routes from the South, and avoid the North end/approach of the East Face while the closure is in effect.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

This is a very enjoyable route located just to the left of Cowboy Boot Crack. The crux is between bolts two and three, which is all smearing. See what Stealth rubber can do for you! Top out at the Metolius bolts, or continue up to the beefy Petzl eyebolts at the top of Cowboy Boot Crack.

I should have mentioned that a 60m rope will JUST reach the beginning of Cowboy Boot Crack from the upper bolts. I would agree that it should be at least 9+, but what the hell do those Nebraska climbers know?

While their knowledge of some of the more technical aspects of climbing may often be subpar, Nebraska climbers do tend exude a certain quiet, yet resolute confidence on the rock, likely due to close contact with a football team that wins more than once every ten years.

In my estimation, it would be VERY easy to get off-route on Trigger Finger. The last time I climbed there, there was a far easier line heading off to the left, and it would of course be very tempting to hop on to Cowboy Boot Crack for some of the more difficult sections.

All this talk about Nebraksan climbers reminds me so much of a typical day at The Garden.... One time I was with my friend on Montezuma's and a group of 3 climbers (they were Texans) comes up asking us where they could find some easy leads to get started on.... I looked down at their rack and I saw Ric Geiman's guide...brand new...and they got all these fancy looking draws (probably $20 a pop) and all these funky nuts and hexes...all brand new! My guess is one of them had been to the gym once for boy scouts, and they all decided to spend a couple hundred dollars on a sport they know nothing about...why the hell do they always come here???

Now, I don't want to be negative here or slamming anyone, but I have to take exception to the previous comment. I too am one of these Nebraska climbers. I don't claim to be an exceptional climber, I am not a local, heck I just started climbing three years ago. But I do love being outside enjoying a unique experience with cool people. Whenever I talk to new climbers I remind myself that I started like them also. These guys are just trying to develop into climbers that will not need help. It should be our job as relatively experienced climbers to instill the proper ideals and etiquette in new climbers that we know ourselves. Hopefully they will then pass that on to people they meet. There shouldn't be a need to claim an area as "my spot", the rock and the outdoors are there for everyone to enjoy. This is not an attack at anyone, it is just my personal philosophy on what the climbing experience is all about.

Gee, Dave, sorry you think only the "right people" deserve to climb on "your rock", as it appears from your post. Perhaps you should look at my profile and Darin's before spouting. If you bothered, you might discover that I am a Nebraska climber, yes, but that I grew up in Colorado Springs. Does that give me an adequate enough pedigree to climb at the Garden? Darin is from Nebraska, too, but currently resides in Castle Rock. Does he get to learn the secret handshake required for climbing at the Garden?

I have to admit I'm impressed that you are able to fathom so much about a person's past, time spent on the rock, and native ability just based on a chance meeting, or a couple of throw-away posts made here at CB.com. I guess divisiveness is good in our small community.

Didn't have intentions of insulting anyone, there. My apologies to anyone upset by that one. I was talking only about a set of guys who didn't know what they were doing and had chosen to climb in The Garden; I was not refering to the entire state of Nebraska.

Look Dave, I realize that you were not coming after anyone in particular. But, and this is important, when you meet up with new or inexperience climbers, be cool to them. See what they are climbing, where they are from, stuff like that. Recommend some good climbs in the area, either at the Garden or somewhere close by. It is your responsibility to pass on the spirit and joy of climbing to both new climbers and non-climbers. This is coming from someone who always appreciates the locals taking an interest instead of being elitist. Basically keep it real and be positive.

I have to agree with Darin, again. I just climbed this route last week, and it felt like no other 5.9 I had ever done. Right before you get into the final "hiking" section of the climb, part of the edgy dish thing broke on me. That is a mangy little hold that is not worth much and not necessary for the climb, at least as a hand. A fun route though and a very good example of a Garden friction climb.

A new(er) Falcon guide has this route at .10a, which seems fair. It's a tougher lead than the .9+'s in the Garden, i.e. Credibility Gap and Crescent Corner, IMHO. Only reason why these grades matter is that they let you know what you're ready for next, anyway.

Hey guys, just climbed this one again yesterday. Always a good route, along with previous advice be careful on those flakes. I definitely felt them shift a bit, pull down not out....

I climbed it up to the second set of anchors just above the unzipped set, the nice big glue-in eyebolts. Sweet anchors except the fact that they are worn almost 50% of the way through. I don't know what can be done about it, but those things are getting sketchy. Don't add to it by toproping through them.

Just led this again. It felt significantly harder than last year. I am fairly certain a right-hand hold a few feet under the "scissor pin" is missing. I distinctly remember a good, small crimp over there that was pretty important. It is not there anymore. It felt much a harder this year than last!