The lowdown

Hardwood smoke permeates the air, behemoth beef ribs weigh down the paper-lined trays, and most everyone gets at least a quarter pound of the brisket. The meat cavalcade extends to pastrami bacon, finished on the grill, and smoked lamb belly, which has crisp salty bits and fatty sweetness. Lip-smacking Chinese sticky ribs and jerk-pork ribs are a nod to owner Billy Durney’s old Flatbush Avenue haunts, and his terrific namesake sausage with peppers and provolone suggests nothing less than the enduring power of Bensonhurst’s old-school pork stores.

What you need to know

Insider Tips
In classic BBQ joint fashion, you order your food from a counter, and the line can get long. Go early or with a group so you can divvy up line-waiting responsibilities (or designate someone to order drinks at the two bars).