Cosmetic esters can be produced effectively via a solvent-free, biocatalytic method. This green process, described by the authors, involves combining two reactants and an enzyme, and is driven to high conversion by the removal of by-products through a nitrogen purge—in turn producing high purity materials directly from the reactor.

Led by column editor Peter Tsolis of The Estée Lauder Companies, this recently added column in the Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine lineup covers some of the more common formulation challenges and suggests solutions for novice formulators as well as seasoned experts.

Jul 15, 2013 | Bud Brewster, Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine

If you think of planet Earth the way you think of the human body, you see how similar they are. Viewed that way, a formulator might easily make the leap from personal care to planetary care. And indeed, some are doing so, especially at the level of controlling pollution.

Jul 9, 2013 | Bob Bornfriend, Alberto Culver

This article aims to help novice formulators understand issues that arise from the scale-up of their recipes, and to remind experienced formulators of some of the less common pitfalls. It also focuses on the unique demands of process development for global implementation at multiple sites, specifically pertaining to the scale-up tasks for process engineers at multinational companies.

Jun 20, 2013 | Nancy Trent, Trent & Co.

It is often said that the most challenging interface during product development is the one between R&D and marketing. Five years ago the Journal of Product Innovation Management reported that significant barriers exist between these two key product innovation functions.

Jun 19, 2013 | Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Succinic acid is commercially produced from fossil-based feedstocks via catalytic hydrogenation of maleic anhydride or as a byproduct of adipic acid production. This carboxylic acid can be used to produce acyl halides, carboxylic acid salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides, nitriles, butane diol and other materials for use in a number of industries.

May 31, 2013 | Katerina Steventon, PhD, FaceWorkshops

Effort to improve one’s appearance through the application of skin care heightens a sense of well-being to induce the “look good, feel good” factor. Consumers, however, often do not feel confident about how to apply skin care, suggesting that the application instructions are inadequate. This creates an opportunity for skin care manufacturers to provide application instructions for better product efficacy. A consumer’s application technique contributes to the product’s efficacy in addition to dictating consumer satisfaction on the product’s feel.

May 28, 2013 | Ali Alikhan, MD, and Howard I. Maibach, MD

Apr 24, 2013 | Eric Perrier, LVMH, et al.

R&D is essential within Cosmetic Valley. It combines actors from large industrial groups with teams from universities and smaller companies. Following is a consolidated group of interviews regarding research in Cosmetic Valley.

There are varying definitions, associations and overall impressions of fine lines and wrinkles among different consumer segments. The findings of this study offer invaluable insight into consumers’ opinions, and by qualitative in-depth interviews, they provide a well-defined vernacular for aging descriptors. This language is critical for developmental research, consumer evaluation and marketing within the cosmetic industry.

Mar 25, 2013 | Katie Anderson (Schaefer), Cosmetics & Toiletries

Previously, the theory explaining emulsion behavior was based on the equilibrium contact angle of the particle at the interface; however, Vinothan N. Manoharan, PhD, and his team at Harvard believe the time allowed for the system to reach equilibrium and the force pushing the particle to the interface are equally as important.