How difficult was the CFE flashing procedure? I saw you posted over at the DD-WRT forums about it.

I was thinking of doing it myself and was wondering if it was worth it for the extra nvRAM?

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The CFE flashing procedure is quite tricky but it took me some 30 mins to figure it out... It was in the hex editing stage that stalled me for a while but once I got it, everything was a breeze.

I just made sure that after flashing with DD-WRT's modified firmware, I then flashed with Linksys's official E3000 and then Toastman's firmware for the E3000. NVRAM reset is the most important thing to put in mind during each flash and a bit of patience while flashing I converted both my WRT610 v2 and WRT320N v1 to their EXXXX series counterparts and everything is doing great

I immediately notice a big improvement especially while watching videos (.mkv or even .avi formats) after the conversion to E3000. When it was still a WRT610N v2 (on Tomato builds), every video I watch kept stuttering when the router is also busy downloading from my NAS or someone else is connected. So I guess the extra NVRAM helps.

@Toastman
Your BETA build is solid so far. I also do not experience the dimmed wireless LED reported in the Tomato USB forum (Eded's build).

Thank you, and am looking forward to the "original classnames build"

BTW, would someone please confirm if using a power adaptor with a 3A or 4.5A (Ampere) good for the E3000/ WRT610N v2. The power adaptor that comes with the WRT610N v2 and the E3000 has 12v 2A specs. Someone from DD-WRT suggested and is actually using this particular power adaptor:

Code:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280367826213

I am already using a similar spec'ed adaptor, although specifically for a laptop. Then I found an APC laptop adaptor with a 4.5A (Ampere) and I am thinking if it's safe to go as far as that Amperage or 3A is more than enough?? I fear an overheating or a 'forked' unit with the higher Ampere.

No one from the DD-WRT forum replied to my query. I'm hoping someone here can confirm... Thanks!

I am already using a similar spec'ed adaptor, although specifically for a laptop. Then I found an APC laptop adaptor with a 4.5A (Ampere) and I am thinking if it's safe to go as far as that Amperage or 3A is more than enough?? I fear an overheating or a 'forked' unit with the higher Ampere.

No one from the DD-WRT forum replied to my query. I'm hoping someone here can confirm... Thanks!

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Devices will only draw the amount of amperage they require, amps don't get "pushed" to devices like voltage does. You could connect the router to a power supply rated for 100 amps and it would still only draw the actual amperage it requires at any given time. It's important to get the voltage and polarity right, and of course make sure the power supply can provide enough amperage. One issue related to voltage is that many cheaper power supplies are not regulated very well, and have a pretty high no-load voltage, i.e. a power supply that claims 12v might actually push 18-20v or more when the device is idle and not drawing much amperage. 2 or 3 "extra" volts is usually safe, but anything over that can definitely be a problem. It's definitely good practice to check the output voltage of a power supply under no-load with a multimeter before connecting it to a device.

The only information you need to have in order to find the correct power supply for your device is the Voltage / Volts (V) and Amperage / Amps (A).

Voltage has to be an exact match. A 12V DC device needs a 12V DC adapter.

Amperage is the amount of power your device uses. The adapter you order has to be able to supply AT LEAST the amount of Amps your device draws. If your device states it is 12V 3A, a 3A adapter can handle that load, but so can a 4A and 5A. The higher amperage (amp) power supply will not have to work as hard to handle a smaller load, and will run cooler and more stable.

So the correct supply can provide 24 watts which is probably about double what the router uses, and it's probably rated quite conservatively too. But nevertheless, it's safe to use one with a higher Current rating, though unnecessary.

I heard from a friend's mother's cousin in Cuckooland, who works at MacBonalds, that all routers will run better and more reliably if you pour holy water in them via the holes in the top, once every week, on a Saturday morning, with the router's axis aligned towards the Great Pyramid :biggrin:

Toink, check back in a few hours and I will post the same compile without QOS labels.

Well, it's out of "testing" stage for a while - the released version is available from tomatousb.org, as well as a few mods based on it - from Toastman and Victek.

You don't need a step-by-step procedure for flashing - you can flash this build directly from the original firmware GUI as well as from DD-WRT GUI. Just don't forget to erase the nvram after loading Tomato.

Ok thanks. I'm not literate in Linux and thus I have no clue how to use tarballs or add modules but I'm willing to give the firmware a shot. As many times as I've flashed this thing I'm pretty much an expert on flashing an E3000. Thanks again.

Any tips for getting the two bands to work correctly? I recently did this upgrade to mine and ever since I have been unable to use my 5ghz band anymore and when I can actually connect it won't do more than 13.5Mbps. On the stock wrt610n firmware I never had an issue with both running and constantly has in the high 200's.