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FIELD NOTES: The Baja 1000 Experience In Baja Mexico With Graham

Standing along what can scarcely be described as a road, in the center of the Baja desert, surrounded by giant cacti, and about 80 miles from the nearest signs of civilization, I think to myself "Would HODINKEE post a memorial for me in the event of my expiration?"

Luckily, I'm not alone. With me is Gustavo (Tavo) Vildosola Jr., an off-road racing driver and winner of the 2010 SCORE Baja 1000. The event is holding its first press pre-run of the entire 1000 mile race, running the length of Mexico's Baja peninsula. Switzerland based (but London labeled) watch company Graham is the official timekeeper, and is responsible for my presence in the desert.

Hours into the day, near Ensenada, the races starting point, the oil and water temperature gauges begin to spike. We are forced to stop and wait for help from the team's chase truck. "This is pretty common out here," I'm assured by Tavo, as he hands me a bottle of water. Considering the punishing terrain we've been battling all morning, I don't doubt him for a minute. Coming to a stop allowed me to get a closer look at what had been a blur up to this point, the beautiful landscape of the Baja desert.

After being towed out of our predicament, I'm given a chance to interact with more of the race teams, getting to know the Baja 1000 a little better. Next month, the race will be run for the 45th time and will include approximately 400 entrants from over 30 countries. The racers are divided into more than 40 different classes, ranging from trophy trucks and pre-runners to motorcycles and ATVs. There are even age brackets. I'm told that my new friend Tavo is quite famous, being the first Mexican-born driver to take the overall win since the race's inception in 1967 - a feat that becomes more impressive to me with each mile we cover.

Our first day comes to an end on the Sea of Cortez, in a small town on the Bay of Los Angeles. Dinner is hosted by race organizer SCORE President, and all around promoter of Mexico, Sal Fish. Many race teams were in attendance, including the already-mentioned Vildosola family, as well as the father son team of John Langley. You may know Mr. Langley better has the creator and producer of the COPS TV show. Relatively new to the sport, the Langley's have brought their freshly built "COPS" pre-runner. An imposing looking vehicle, clad in all black, it's what you might expect Bruce Wayne to show up in.

COPS "Truck"

Day 2 begins with a postcard-like sunrise over a scattering of moored fishing boats in the bay. I begin the day in the "COPS" truck and we head into the Valley of the Giants, so named for the oak tree sized Cadon cacti that grow there. The ride is loud and rough, reducing my body to rag doll status, held in place only by the 6 point harness system attached to the roll cage. The rapidly passing landscape remains an impressive sight, and I wish to myself that I could stop for some pictures. About an hour into our ride, my wish is granted. The radio flickers to life with a message that the truck in front of us has flipped - "four occupants, possible injuries." I give up my spot in the COPS truck so a doctor traveling not far behind us can be rushed to the scene.

Thankfully, there are no serious injuries sustained, apart from a few cactus needles that found their way into a reporter from Revolution Mexico (the watch magazine, not a coup). I am again assured that this is not uncommon. It turns out that driving 1000 miles through the desert, even in custom built trucks, is exactly as dangerous as it sounds.

I spend the rest of the day riding in the COPS chase truck with the team’s mechanics. They explain to me that the Baja 1000 is a race purely for the glory, not for the money. "The money you win is about enough to cover the cost of tires for the trip," they tell me. You can glean some insight to the kind of people that take part in this race from that fact alone.

Cadon Cactii

After a couple of flat tires (with only one spare on board), and a bit of luck, we make it to Loreto, again on the Cortez side of the peninsula. Another day of punishing trails, oppressive heat, and beautiful scenery is in the books. The celebrity of the racers was on full display on this final leg of our journey, with kids and their parents coming out in droves to get a glimpse of Tavo and his race truck. He patiently responded to all their requests, signing autographs and posing for pictures. Dinner with local dignitaries underscored the pride that the state of Baja takes in hosting this race. Everyone I met was exceedingly grateful to have a journalist from the US there to tell their story. They all asked what the experience had been like. "Exciting and eye opening" I told them. Exciting due to the unknown elements of the adventure that awaited me each day, and eye-opening due to the natural beauty of the land and genuine grace of the locals who call it home.

Our last day sent us along the coast to the finish line of the race, the capital of Baja, La Paz. My spine turned to dust and my torso sore all over served as evidence of the adventure I had survived. As a cherry on top, we experienced a magnitude 6.3 earthquake just 40 miles off shore, keeping me on my toes until the very end. Mexico's Baja peninsula is much more than the tourist-riddled Cabo and the stumble-across-the-border-for-a-good-time city of Tijuana. Between these two points is the real beauty and culture of the area, and the SCORE Baja 1000 is its hidden gem.

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Friday March 3, 2012

HODINKEE is one of the most widely read wristwatch publications in the world. Launched in 2008 by then 25-year-old Benjamin Clymer, the site quickly gained notoriety for earnest looks at some of the industry’s most interesting, and occasionally forgotten timepieces.