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Isolating Subjects and Shoot Closer

today, i went to explore on the question:

How do i shoot really close and get a Ralph Gibson, Bastienne's Eye effect:

in the slr world, this problem would simply be solved with a lens that could
focus down to 35cm, or a macro lens. Other options would include
Tele-Converters or extenders which allows closer focusing (at the expense of
infinity).

Another option for SLRs and especially TLRs would be the close-up lens. This is
the least expensive option but the one with a loss of image quality.

So what about RF ?

well, as it turns out, the RF is quite lousy when it comes to close(r) focusing.
With Leicas, the normal close focusing starts from 0.7m, with a Bessa R4,
it focuses down to 0.5m (provided your lens supports it). Issues include
parallax errors giving inaccurate framelines.

So, the way i see it, these are the following options for closer focusing:

a. Use a special lens that allows closer focus or scale focus.
the most famous is the Summicron DR lens, which focuses from 0.5m onwards.

Most wide-angled voigtlander lens allows a mix of rf coupled plus scale distance.
In scale distance, the subject to lens distance is estimated.

I have a Nikkor 50/f2 which is RF coupled from inf to 0.7, and from 0.7m to 46cm (1.5 feet),
it allows scale focusing. I tested this today, at 46cm, it is roughly the length of my fore-arm
to my finger-tips. I found that I could improve scale focusing accuracy if I shot at f4 - f5.6 (at a minimum
aperture).

here is a pix:

The issue is that shooting at this range requires a good estimation + deep DOF.

b. I then went to explore the other direction, using my elmarit 90/f2.8,
fixed it on my epson r-d1 with a crop factor of 1.5m, making it behave
like a 135mm Hektor but faster and shorter focusing distance (1m vs 1.5m).

the effect is similar but different. using a tele flattens the subject avoiding
the large nose effect of closeups. But using a tele isn't really the same
as close up.

c. Another option is to forget rf bodies, and to use the rf lens on mirror-less bodies,
for example, a hawkeye on a sony nex for close focusing:

Re: Isolating Subjects and Shoot Closer

I think if you really want to have close focus, you are better off with a mirrorless camera like the Ricoh GXR and maybe one of those extension tubes. Otherwise, unless you calibrate/design your rangefinder for close focus, it ain't going to be easy.

* Elmar Macro 90mm, this is a very nice collapsible lens, very expensive but certainly helps in close ups.

Other lens which allows closer focusing are those lens with goggles for the m3, eg, the goggled Summaron and 35mm Summicron, they both focus down to 0.65m.

I tested using the uncoupled Nikkor 50/f2 and narrowed aperture down to f/16 and used a flash. it works but at f16, bokeh isn't obvious, and also focusing can't vary too much from 1.5feet.

I then tested the Elmarit 90/f2.8 with the russian turret on the R-D1 (making it into a 135mm lens). the Russian turrent has markings for 1.5m, 3m and Infinity for the 135mm focal length. it is largely accurate. Here are some objects i took about 20 mins ago:

The softness i think is due to hand-shake OR focusing as I was using f2.8 and composing on the turret. But the overall look is quite pleasing, no ?

Re: Isolating Subjects and Shoot Closer

What about using a VisoFlex and something like the 90 Elmarit head only, within the focus mount? OK, high priced gear, and really, the same lens on the NEX works better, but if you want to keep it all R/F, cheating a little bit perhaps, LOL.
I've got a couple of Viso units ( Viso 1 & Viso 2), but the shutter release is in a different spot on the M8. I am waiting for the M6 to arrive, so hopefully the Viso 2 will fit that.
Gary