When Roma Antica arrived in downtown Larkspur in May, taking the place of Gia Ristorante Italiano after its closure three months early, one couldn’t help but wonder what would be different this time. Both have roots in San Francisco and bring culinary inspiration from Rome, so if you’ve been to one, should you expect about the same from the other?

Although there’s not one particular element of this new Italian trattoria that might leave you bellowing superlatives, the overall dining experience immediately draws you in and succeeds in becoming greater than the sum of its parts. The dining room, and front and back covered patios are inherently charming, the staff exudes hospitality and the menu is well crafted.

“It’s a restaurant with a particular personality,” says Alessandro Vasselli, one of three owners, all of whom grew up together in Rome and moved to the United States about six years ago. Co-owners Dogakan Solmaz and Roberto Sbaraglia opened the original Roma Antica three years ago in San Francisco, where Vasselli still serves as manager. He says the two eateries are exactly the same and the staff goes back and forth.

The central downtown Larkspur location has a natural neighborhood vibe. The shiplap structure built in 1924 that was originally a residence is as easily suitable for housing the former New England style seafood shack, Yankee Pier, as it is the fine dining, white tablecloth setting of Gia that followed. Roma Antica has a soft, contemporary aesthetic that’s both upscale and down home.

Sanded and stained live-edge wood tabletops with visible graining are neatly appointed with farmhouse white and blue napkins. Windows brighten the dining room with natural light. Cushioned stools at a thick marble counter offer the opportunity to witness the bustling culinary happenings in the kitchen through a sheet of glass.

Lush plantings and flower boxes separate the front patio from the sidewalk and establish a cohesive, cozy ambiance; the rear patio sits high above the parking lot. Both are kept sufficiently warm throughout the year by heaters, but neatly folded knitted blankets are nearby.

The straightforward menu and four or so daily specials focus on coaxing authentic flavors from quality ingredients. The recipes are from Sbaraglia’s father, chef Marco Sbaraglia, who had a restaurant in Rome for 20 years, Antica, that was a hangout spot for the three Larkspur owners.

“We went there when we were boys,” shares Vasselli. “That’s where the idea for the restaurant came from and the recipes originated, but we are all Roman so in general, we all know the traditional cuisine.”

It shows.

A complimentary basket of warm, house-made fresh focaccia extends a pleasing welcome. It keeps coming as fast as you’re able to devour it. Sometimes it’s plain, other times it might have onion or tomato — perfect for dipping into drizzles of olive oil and balsamic vinegar on the table.

The menu is divided into starters, bruschetta (toppings on toasted homemade bread), first course pastas, pizzas, second course entrees and desserts.

Traditional Caesar salad ($10) with small, crisp cuts of romaine, house-made croutons, slivered Parmesan and creamy garlic dressing is simple but adequate, and balances well with heartier dishes to come.

Lightly breaded calamari ($13) is perfectly crunchy. A creamy dipping sauce with the slight bite of cayenne compliments the delicate flavors. The fried bell peppers and summer squash mixed in are even better.

Bruschetta ($7) is a given during tomato’s seasonal peak but these pale dices atop firmly toasted sliced baguette, although boosted by garlic and olive oil, are more akin to winter’s weaker version. The bruschetta with imported burrata cheese and 24-month aged prosciutto ($10) is on the list for the next visit.

Sometimes nothing will gratify the appetite quite like a stately, stacked lasagna ($17), one of eight pastas on the menu. Multiple layers of thin, homemade sheets saturated with a rich, meaty ragù meld together beneath grated Parmesan cheese. While not fancy, it satiates without being overly heavy.

Outstanding pizza, or pinsa which means “stretch” and defines the elongated oval shape, are the creation of chef Giorgio Corletti. “He’s from Rome and one of the best,” boasts Vasselli. The flatbread style pies ($14 to $20) are presented at the table on a handled wood plank.

Vasselli says you need a specific diploma to get the flour for this particular dough that’s made with wheat flour, soya and rice and is 80% water that, per the menu, makes it lower in fat and more easily digestible. It’s puffy and feather light with a layer of cornmeal on the bottom that provides a crisp base to support either the fresh, light tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese and embedded toppings like Italian sausage, mushroom, onion and tomato ($17); the stracciatella, with arugula pesto and prosciutto ($18); or a simple but satisfying Margherita with fresh basil, tomato sauce, fior de latte and extra virgin olive oil ($14).

The porchetta ($22), one of four entrees, was not what we expected. We had visions of thick cuts of pork loin, rolled around stuffing infused with garlic, rosemary, sage and thyme, encased by abundant crackling. Instead, ultra thin and well-cooked pork slices with a soft fatty outer layer lay beneath strands of shaved fennel, orange wedges and Mediterranean olives. The flavors are good but the dish didn’t seem to correlate with the menu description — “slowly roasted and stuffed with herbs.”

Some ingredients, such as the olive oils, tomatoes and cheeses, come from “the best sources in Italy,” says Vasselli, while meats and produce are local when possible and often from the Corte Madera farmers market.

The wine list is heavily focused on European imports — mostly Italian with a couple of sparkling wines from France — but also includes a number from California ($10 to $21 glass, $38 to $425 bottle). There are also a few cocktails made with vermouth or Drusian Prosecco ($10).

Jovial service is part of the deal at Roma Antica and occasional lapses and delays don’t detract from the experience. Water glasses are filled immediately and focaccia soon follows. Interactions are spirited, hospitable, fast-paced and efficient. There’s an air of genuine Italian temperament and soul and the language gap just adds to the show. Pride in the restaurant is clearly evident and requests for menu adjustments are readily accepted.

It’s easy to see how one might become a regular at Roma Antica, myself included.

Leanne Battelle is a freelance food writer. Send her an email at ij.lbattelle@gmail.com with your comments or restaurant recommendations. Or you can follow the Marin dining scene at instagram.com/therealdealmarin.