Eat

Giovannelli Restaurant

Restaurant

Giovannelli Restaurant

Easy to find on what seems to be a street full of busy restaurants in Killorglin, Giovannellis stands out in its simplicity, with just the name on the front of the building - the first hint that this is something different.

Open D Tue-Sat, 7-9pm. Closed Sun & Mon. Major cards.

Easy to find on what seems to be a street full of busy restaurants in Killorglin, Giovannellis stands out for its simplicity, with just the name on the front of the building - the first hint that Daniele and Antoinette Giovanelli's business is something different.

In fact, this is the type of restaurant that is so familiar in Italy: unassuming, seemingly small, and with unusual features inside that are 'unrestaurant like'. When you look in the door, the first thing you see is what looks like a refrigerated deli counter display at the top of a few steps. Then you notice what looks like a small bar counter to your left and a bistro-like set of five tables with four seats each to your right. You may wonder if you are in the right place.

But, once inside, you're immediately reassured by the effusive welcome by smartly turned out staff in black and white - and when the chef patron himself welcomes you, it dawns on you that this is going to be special and fun. Someone brings over a chair, props up a handwritten blackboard with the dishes of the day, and explains all of the dishes detailing what each one is, with special attention to the provenance of the ingredients. You find out that the Giovanellis have their own salad and vegetable garden...excitement and anticipation builds.

Water, olive oil, sourdough bread and the excellent wine list arrives, with wines by the glass - a Sardinian Vermentino and an Alto Adige Cortina, perhaps - also recommended by the very able service staff, who have clearly tasted them and answer detailed questions on each one.

Delicious starters arrive - maybe Prosciutto with crostini and rosemary flowers, and Carpaccio of Bresaola with parmigiano and rocket from the Giovanellis' garden which is so fresh you'd think it was still growing. And, as is normal in Italy, the portion sizes of high quality ingredients are generous, intended for considered consumption and enjoyment.

Following in due course, Rack of Kerry lamb and Beef Ravioli are typical main courses - the rack beautifully prepared and trimmed, accompanied by polenta and rosemary flowers, a sauceboat of marsala sauce, and cooked as requested. Normally this comes with vegetables and potatoes or, for a lighter alternative, you might ask for a side salad which really shows off whatever is in the chef’s garden. And the homemade beef ravioli, with butter and sage, is a delight: so simple yet so well done in terms of the balance of the butter, the sage, the soft pasta, and the beef stuffing...

And for dessert, don't miss the tiramisu – usually something is out of balance; too much espresso, cheese, or cocoa powder, but this is finger-clean-the-bowl good, a real treat to enjoy with an espresso or a latte to round off the meal.

But the final surprise will be the bill, which is very good value for money – and not only because of the delicious, carefully sourced food, and the care and skill that goes into putting it on the plate, but also the excellent service given by well trained young servers, who obviously enjoy their work. What a joy - Giovanellis is a place to seek out.

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