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Sagging ceiling drywall always indicates a problem that needs correction, and it adds a touch of shoddiness that no room needs. If it is sagging because it got wet, it probably means that a water pipe, the roof or a wall is leaking. If the drywall is sagging between joists, or pillowing, it means the installers probably used 1/2-inch drywall when they should have used 5/8-inch. The weight of the insulation is causing the sagging, and the chances are that the drywall will eventually start falling unless you do something. In both cases, the remedy involves hanging more drywall.

Spot Repairs

1

Draw a rectangle around a patch of sagging drywall with a yardstick and a pencil. Extend each end of the rectangle past the damaged area all the way to the next rafter.

2

Cut the sides of the rectangle perpendicular to the rafters with a drywall saw. Use a utility knife to cut the sides parallel to the rafters so that they bisect the faces of the rafters. Pull out the old drywall carefully, pushing insulation back into the attic if necessary, and discard the drywall.

3

Measure the dimensions of the rectangle with a tape measure and cut a new piece of drywall to fit. Be sure the drywall has the same thickness as that already in the ceiling.

4

Screw the drywall to the rafters with 1-1/2-inch drywall screws. Drive the screws around the edge of the patch and into intervening rafters, spacing them 6 inches apart. Don't forget to drive screws into the existing drywall around the edges of the rectangle.

5

Tape the seams with drywall joint compound, or mud, and paper drywall tape. Finish the taped seams and screw holes with two or more topcoats of mud. Sand the final coat with 120-grit sandpaper, then prime and paint the patch.

Fixing Pillowed Drywall

1

Remove the old drywall and replace it with 5/8-inch drywall. This is a messy job that will probably result in all the ceiling insulation falling into the room. If you want to avoid this much trouble, install new drywall directly over the old.

2

Find the joists. They are easy to identify, because they are the valleys between which the sags are bulging. If they aren't obvious, use a stud finder to locate them.

3

Screw 1- by 3-inch furring strips to the joists with 2-inch wood screws. The strips should extend from one side of the room to the other.

4

Hang 5/8-inch drywall on the furring strips. Tape and finish the new drywall and then prime and paint it.

Things You Will Need

Yardstick

Pencil

Drywall saw

Utility knife

Tape measure

1-1/2-inch drywall screws

Drywall joint compound

Paper drywall tape

120-grit sandpaper

Drywall primer

Paint

Stud finder

1- by 3-inch lumber

2-inch wood screws

5/8-inch drywall

Tips

If you have a ceiling light fixture, you have to move its electrical box down when you hang a second layer of drywall. Frame around the box with furring strips so you have something to which to attach the drywall.

If the drywall is sagging simply because some fasteners popped out, drive new 1-1/2-inch screws to re-fasten it to the rafters.

Warnings

Use a drywall lift to hang new sheets of drywall to the ceiling. You risk injury by attempting to lift and hold the sheets without one.

If the drywall is sagging because it's wet, identify the source of the leak and fix it.

About the Author

Chris Deziel has a bachelor's degree in physics and a master's degree in humanities. Besides having an abiding interest in popular science, Deziel has been active in the building and home design trades since 1975. As a landscape builder, he helped establish two gardening companies.