Is that a temp controller or does it just shut things off if something isn't right? If it's a temp controller, it would have to have a pilot light, right? Can you post a picture of your burner showing the pilot light arrangement clearly?

If anyone wants to duplicate this do NOT go buy a gas valve. Thousands of those are thrown away every week as plumbers upgrade gas hot water heaters. Simply call a plumber and ask him to give you the next gas hot water heater he scraps out, and make sure you tell him you need the gas valve. It will save him dump fees and he will be glad to do it!

Is that a temp controller or does it just shut things off if something isn't right? If it's a temp controller, it would have to have a pilot light, right? Can you post a picture of your burner showing the pilot light arrangement clearly?

Yes, it's a temp controller.

A cheaper version (electronic) can be had for under $100.00.

Watlow makes a simple analog version for about $150.00.

The gas valve is NOT what is found in most gas water heaters- which usually have a standing pilot light.

The gas furnace in my home is also far simpler- standing pilot there as well.

Unlike the above appliances which are readily open to outside air, a firebox is not the same animal (see note below).

I'm not going to disassemble the snout of the burner, but you can see the components.

The sequence is:

The controller senses a low temp through the pit thermocouple.

It in turns sends juice to the the relay, switching power directly to the burner.

The burner immediately turns on the fan, and a spark unit.

The spark unit lights a pilot.

Approximately 30 seconds later, if the thermocouple in the snout sees flame, the gas valve is allowed to send a rush of gas to the main burner.

When the temp in the pit is reached, the temp controller shuts off the AC to the burner assy, and the entire things shuts down.

The system "fails" in the open (no power) applied state.

No flame, no gas flows.

Further, the burner and oxygen source to run it are independent of the firebox. Note: this is one of the biggest problems that is overcome with this setup as opposed to others. Most firebox's are MUCH more airtight than your average gas grill. Gas flame and a low oxygen supply are a very dangerous combination

The obvious advantage (other than more even pit temps) is that I can burn logs same as always, and not worry that my temps fluctuate much do to the logs being spent.

I have friends out West (where wood is scarce and expensive) that swear by their OH and SP pits._________________BBQMAN
"I Turned A Hobby Into A Business".
Providing "IMHO" Since 2005.

Last edited by BBQMAN on Mon Aug 23 10 6:58 pm; edited 3 times in total

As a tech with a background in automated machinery I of course thought of going that route.

The cost of the valve, Honeywell spark controls, the conversion box, along with the actual burner and modified blower add up to enough money that it just wasn't worth the $$ saving to have to dicker around getting things "just right".

For instance I had no idea the CFM requirements for the fan.

Plus the time involved in wiring etc.

It just wasn't worth the hassle (to me)

This unit is tried and true through both OH and SP.

Now you HVAC pro's that can get-r-done without going the pre-packaged route kudos to you.

The "average Joe" with "some" skills could do this modification in a safe manner.

In all honesty this isn't a project for a beginner, and it was (is) costly._________________BBQMAN
"I Turned A Hobby Into A Business".
Providing "IMHO" Since 2005.

Last edited by BBQMAN on Sun Aug 22 10 10:45 am; edited 1 time in total

So is this just a log lighter or would this work on my Gasser?when I'm away I'm afraid of the flame going out in the middle of a cook and looking for something to keep the flame lit or turn off the gas if the flame goes out.Would this project do that?
Do you have part numbers for this project and or source._________________Good BBQ is all smoke and beers!
The Dawghouse Custom vertical Gasser
Custom Made offset smoker
Char grill smoker
Weber kettle

So is this just a log lighter or would this work on my Gasser?when I'm away I'm afraid of the flame going out in the middle of a cook and looking for something to keep the flame lit or turn off the gas if the flame goes out.Would this project do that?
Do you have part numbers for this project and or source.

As stated at the title, this is a gas assist and would work just fine for your use (I'm familiar with your cooker).

The idea is (like an oven) you set the temp and walk away knowing that it will maintain said temp wood or not.

It is also a log lighter in the respect that anything you throw in front of it will burn.

I'll post links to the suppliers at the original post.

The thermocouple is available in various lengths, and as stated in the original thread choice of controllers will determine relay style (if any) and price.

I prefer quality parts, and this mod reflects that._________________BBQMAN
"I Turned A Hobby Into A Business".
Providing "IMHO" Since 2005.

Of course, such a system means you MUST be within reach of 110V power. Since I do a lot of cooking in sites where there isn't any power available, this wouldn't work for me. The surplus water heater types don't require any power, you have to manually light the pilot light which has to stay on for the duration of the cook. There is a thermopile above that pilot light which generates enough power to actuate the gas valve. If the flame goes out, the gas valve automatically shuts off. Temp control is achieved in the normal ways, which include varying gas pressure, opening or closing a gate valve to modulate gas flow, or modifying the air flow through the cooker.

I think the powered temp controller idea is great. You could bake bread in your smoker, in fact it simply becomes an outdoor oven to which you can add smoke. The use of a bang-bang temp controller means there will be swings in the temperature (minor) compared to the PID controllers, which can control temperature much more closely. For gas heat, though, those generally require a standing pilot light as well. Brewers use those, and it's really cool to watch the flames flickering off and on as the controller varies the pulse width to keep temps constant.

Furthermore, that's a realistic possibility in an enclosed air-poor firebox with a smoldering fire.

Reason #2 if the pilot goes out (do to the above situation) and the thermocouple in the burner snout still see's heat from the smoldering fire in the box., the gas comes on....................................not good.

This unit eliminates that problem as well (yes, I thought about it).

Most of us with commercial equipment have access to A/C and/or own gensets.

If the power goes out, everything re-sets when it comes back on.

Or, for fail safe operation use a UPS.

Need a remote setup and don't own a genset?

A deep cell battery and the proper size inverter would work as well.

Then again, a small genset is close to the cost of the above.................._________________BBQMAN
"I Turned A Hobby Into A Business".
Providing "IMHO" Since 2005.

Last edited by BBQMAN on Mon Aug 23 10 7:01 pm; edited 1 time in total

I've been asked often over the years to post "how to" info on my log lighters.

I loathe to do so because of safety concerns.

Great topic Mike. I have never gone into great detail
about the gas hookups on my rigs for the same reason
since I don't have any safety backups on them. I also
don't have any hair on my arms or any eyebrows. _________________Curt
www.kissmybuttsbbq.com

You know I see a lot of BBQ teams using Ole Hickory and Southern Pride pits on the circuit (they must do some catering on the side - that's a lot of pit for competition!) - and most of them run on forced air no propane to stay legal - I wonder if your setup could be retro fit to run like that as well?

I'm not sure on the answer, but would assume that it could be done (because it is by the commercial guys).

I would imagine it would be as simple as not turning on the gas, turning the power off to the igniter (it has an automatic repeat cycle if it doesn't see flame) and providing a secondary relay to run the fan only if the previous were in a shut off condition and the thermocouple/controller saw a low heat condition.

Hell Fire Grill:

I'll have the rest of the build pics up next week.

I'm waiting to get some high temp resistant ceramic type insulation for the air-gap between the component box and the firebox.

Temporarily using fiberglass but it's not a permanent solution....................

I did get the system up and running, and did a rib cook yesterday as an experiment.

Cooked a whole hog overnight for an event this evening and boy is this setup SWEET!_________________BBQMAN
"I Turned A Hobby Into A Business".
Providing "IMHO" Since 2005.