Pitching perfect

Every holiday has its share of surprises, but this particular one was a string of unforgettable delights, each as unexpected as it was pleasant. We set off, all prepared for the usual winter delays and long waits at the airport, but just fifteen minutes later we were hurtling down the runway in our plush five-seater aircraft to Thangazi (near Alwar), the nearest landing strip for the luxurious Amanbagh hotel, our first stop.

Nothing can prepare you for the first sight of Amanbagh--from the lap of the rugged Aravalis rises this oasis of manicured gardens dotted with Mughal havelis and pavilions, shaded by tall palms, swaying eucalyptus and deep blue pools. Our Pool Pavilion rooms, entered via little courtyard gardens had sunken baths and private pools.

Once the hunting lodge of the Maharaja of Alwar, Amanbagh has plenty to explore, but we tore ourselves away to see the gau dhuli mela, or 'cow-dust tour', when cowherds walk their herds back home at sunset. The magic continued well into the night, as we dined in the open Library Terrace. The surprise? In stark contrast to the opulence of the resort, the food was comfortingly, if surprisingly, simple. Amanbagh offers several excursions, and we opted for a long but relaxed trek up the Aravalis, followed by a lakeside picnic, served steaming hot as we sprawled ourselves on gaddis. We did one last thing before checking out--a horseback ride through the countryside, a touristy but thoroughly entertaining experience. The region was a Mughal stronghold and is still dotted with ruins of forts, gateways, pavilions and mosques, all reminders of a time gone by.

Our pilot then whisked us off to Aman-i-Khas resort, on the fringes of the Ranthambhore tiger sanctuary. The resort is a flashback to the grand hunting camps of the Mughals. So our 'suites' were in fact large tents overlooking the bushy grasslands. We left almost immediately for the evening safari. The tiger evaded us, but the last rays of the sun setting the horizon ablaze in flaming orange and pink made the foray worth it.

The morning brought better sightings. Armed with binocs and the camp's naturalist, we spotted several red-wattled lap wings, herons, egrets and kingfishers as they swooped down to the lake adjoining the camp. The guide's follow-up advice was just as good--the dip in the stepwell-cum-pool, shaded by a canopy of trees, was just what our weary bodies needed. As evening descended, we joined the other campers around the open fireplace to listen to the jungle settle down for the night, our guide pitching in to help us identify the various hoots, roars and howls.

Our next excursion was to the 8th-century Ranthambhore Fort, proud and impregnable; and what breathtaking views to take back as our mini craft took off for Kishangarh airstrip. From here we drove down to Pushkar's WelcomHeritage Royal Camp, which is pitched up specially for the famous Pushkar Mela. Unlike the pristine white minimalism of Aman-i-Khas, these tents were a blaze of colours and activity, with music, dance, puppet shows, juggling, flame-throwing, camel parades... the works.

We quickly marked our presence at the Brahma Temple and made our way to the streets for some antique shopping. Silverware, embroidered fabrics, traditional clothes with gold embroidery, period furniture... if we didn't declare bankruptcy, it was because the relentless haggling sapped our energies!

The last leg of our journey was in the heart of desert land. Again we were left gaping--the Chhatra Sagar camp is on the bank of a lake and surrounded by fields of mustard and chillies! We spent an entire evening watching scores of birds whoosh past us till the strains of sarangi and folk ballads drew us to the campfire. The jeep safari into the desert was exciting and enlightening, spent identifying dune patterns! Before we knew it, the time had come for us to drive the 100-odd km to Jodhpur, to catch our flight back home.