I am debating between the GRS GraverMach AT and the Lindsay Classic Airgraver. I am leaning towards the Lindsay. However, my one concern is the maintenance. I have heard (and I mean no disrespect) that it is a bit finicky to get it to run properly. Has anyone else found this to be true? What sort of yearly maintenance should I expect to do on the handpiece?

Also, in the description for the Classic Airgraver, it states "Rapid 3/32" square graver change without collets." Personally, I prefer using a quick change system. What are your opinions on the quick change extensions? Do they impact the performance of the Airgraver?

Quick change only makes the over all length longer, no real changes translate to graver to metal feel in my experience using them.. hovever.. you can quick change without them if the backs of the gravers are the same shape and size.

I think I may have given my classic a swab inside once in a couple years.. there was nothing going on with it, I was more curious to see the piston and felt like maybe I should.

I've used 3 of the GRS systems.. and love most of their tools. Except when it comes to the powered graver systems. Id never swap my Classic for one.. ever.
If possible try them before buying.. if not watch videos and listen to the difference. that sound translates to performance and feel.
anyway theres 2cents
Good luck.

Hi Giordan, It is necessary to keep oil out of the bore and piston. The manual describes that if you notice the tool does not idle as fine as it used to or stopping, it is time to clean it. This is done by removing the handle, dumping the piston in your hand and using alcohol on a q-tip to swab out the bore, wipe off the piston with alcohol and reassemble.

Yes, with 3/32" square gravers in the Classic it can be setup for quick change without collets. If you would like to use collets though there are the quick change extensions made for the Classic. It is method 5 that I have included below from an earlier post about the various methods of holding gravers in the Classic.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Lindsay

The Classic and PalmControl are already set up to do quick change without collets by only using 3/32" square gravers themselves.

Below are the methods in the manual about changing gravers in the Classic and PalmControl. If switching a lot, I use method #1 (no collects needed) or method 2 is also quick. For work on the knives I didn't change gravers very often and so I would use method 3.

1: Slip a graver in and out of the tool hole. Gravers are held from rotating or falling out of the tool hole because of the oring, yet they may be pulled out or pushed in easily. This works best with 3/32" square shank gravers. To prepare the tool, insert a 3/32" square graver and leave the setscrew slightly backed off from the surface of the graver. The screw acts as an index in this way and the friction of the O-ring in the front of the tool hole prevents the graver from falling out. Once the setscrew is set, it does not need to be adjusted to change gravers.

2. Utilizes a thumb screw for a more secure grip. This will work with any shank graver (round or square) under .133" in size. Remove the setscrew and use the knurled thumbscrew in its place. The graver can be tightened down for a more secure grip than #1.

3. The third way to use the tool holder is with a set screw and wrench. This will provide the most secure hold. It will work with any shank graver (round or square) under .133" in size.

4. The fourth method is to remove the setscrew or thumb screw from the AirGraver's nose completely, and just slip the 3/32" square graver shanks in/out. It is similar to #1", but with the set screw completely removed. The rubber o-ring is then all that is used to hold the graver in the tool hole.

5. Last method is using the quick change extensions for the Classic. They provide extra length for large hands or if wanting to get more use from a short graver.

the classic works fine for me.i,ve been using about 9 yrs now . had rebored and a tungsten piston made for it . i use a oil compressor like steve has on the tool list silent air . i have 2 filters on the tank and another on the set of guages at a higher level, above . i have cleaned the tool as prescribed several times internally with an alcohol swab . it works perfectly as new the day i got it back from the rebore. it did not idle as good as it did lately a couple weeks ago.it was not the way i was cleaning it . i looked down the bore with a bore light and saw a fine damp ring where the outer diameter of piston contacts the forward edge of the barrel. so i cleaned it again , this time bending the q tip at a 45 degree angle and rotating the barrel around it. after several yrs. the very light film of oil and air had made a very tacky spot between the piston and the hammering edge making it stick and not idle well . i cleaned this and it idles as good as the day he sent me the new rebore and i remember as he said that the rebore and new liner would idle to the point to where you couldn,t hear or feel it . it does. i run a tungsten piston all the time at 80 psi . john

I have been engraving for only two year with a Lindsey PC and have only tried a GRS once for about 15 minutes so I am far from an expert. But I would not hesitate to recommend Steve's PC to my grandma! And you NEVER disappoint grandma.

Steve's PC is as far as I am concerned the ultimate for engraving, I must admit that I have'nt tried anything else, but that said, I don't need to.

I have had the tool now for around four years, Steve would know the actual dates. I have used it continuously and probably more than others for this period, I have never stripped it for cleaning as there is no need to, but maybe in the next four years The only thing I have done is cut and re-seat the main air tube fixed to the back which can split with continuous use.

I clean my PC every two weeks and also drain my air compressor Lindsay tools are the best and easy to maintain,students are amazed when they get to engrave with any of the four Lindsay handpiece's I have in my shop where I teach in Manassas,Va. J.J.

The Classic Airgraver has so few moving parts, that very little could even go wrong with it. You can adjust the idle with a slight turn of the air valve on the regulator. You can have the idle so low you can hardly feel it or as strong as you want. I have taken the cap off to swab mine out, but it was not because it was not working. By looking inside you can see there is very little to go wrong.

The Classic already has a quick release built into it. If you need some extended length you can then add the removable quick release. I really thought I would need some also. I have not used one yet and now have no reason to need them.

The Airgraver is so smooth at starting and stopping. I purchased mine and kicked myself for not getting it several years sooner. It was just as exciting as when we got our first color TV - It changed the world!!!

I would highly recommend the airgraver to anyone whether they are just learning or have been engraving for several years. I have not ever regretted it even for a split second, other then regretting I didn't get it sooner. I THINK YOU WILL LOVE IT.

Giordano&Dee, Welcome to the forum. I switched from a GRS system and have been using the classic system with the foot control for a few years now and am totally happy with it. It is simple, straightforward and extremely well built. The Lindsay gravers slide into place and can be changed in an instant as needed without any additional fittings. This also facilitates quicker and more consistent sharpening with the Lindsay templates, and believe me you want to be able to sharpen easily.

I am debating between the GRS GraverMach AT and the Lindsay Classic Airgraver. I am leaning towards the Lindsay. However, my one concern is the maintenance. I have heard (and I mean no disrespect) that it is a bit finicky to get it to run properly. Has anyone else found this to be true? What sort of yearly maintenance should I expect to do on the handpiece?

Also, in the description for the Classic Airgraver, it states "Rapid 3/32" square graver change without collets." Personally, I prefer using a quick change system. What are your opinions on the quick change extensions? Do they impact the performance of the Airgraver?

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

HI

Firstly Welcome To The Engraving Forum Giordano&Dee.

I was once in a similar situation as yourselves.

I have had the classic airgraver for sometime now and It has not needed any maintenance so far.Just did what the instructions manual said in setting it up and started engraving with it,It is easy as that.It has been approx. a couple of years and it is still going fine.

On that note I acquired the Artisan Airgraver approx. 4-5 years ago (before i got the classic airgraver) and I do all the heavy cutting with the Artisan,and I have so far only switched the pistons,stainless piston to tungsten or the other way.But it has not needed any maintenance till now except while changing pistons I have clean the bore with a dry cotton bud ,which hardly takes a couple of minutes.

The reason I mentioned the Artisan airgraver is that both the classic and the artisan use similar method or technology except that the Classic airgraver has a variable stroke.

You will only need an air compressor and you are off.

I wish You All The Best
SE

__________________Learn from those who know more than you do and teach those who know less than you do. - I.M.

I'm a complete amateur and have an Artisan . I had a problem with it a few months ago that was probably more my fault and Steve jumped in there and solved the problem with actions so far above what I thought should happen that I base how I treat customers of mine like that now. So, Steve not only puts out a machine that works like a clock but , gives life lessons too !
As far as the quick change collets go, I thought I needed one for each graver to efficiently go from one graver to another but now, I use one collet with a thumbscrew and I can probably change tips as fast or faster.
Steve's customer service is second to none !

I had the GRS with 6 hand pieces to do different types of cutting. Years ago got the Lindsay classic, and haven't used anything else since. one hand piece does it all and no extra boxes to hook up to. If anything goes wrong with the GRS hand piece or the power box and it does you have to send the whole mess back to the corporation and hope for the best. The Lindsay quick change works very well it just adds a little length which I find comfortable in my hand.