Electroforming Resources for Aspiring Artists

I want to help other aspiring electroformers, jewelers, crafters, designers and artists out there get started on electroforming with some resources that I personally use for my work.I developed a sub-brand of Enchanted Leaves called Cu Electroforming that features house made Copper Electroforming Solution. (Cu is the symbol for element 29, copper!)I'll have these starter kits (as well as individual components) available to purchase online shortly!

Don't want to wait for kits, or would you rather purchase supplies separately?Here is a list I've put together that you can 90% buy all in one go on Amazon with Prime Shipping. If you are a student, you can join Prime Student, and get free 2 day Prime shipping!

This page is a constant work in progress!Be sure to bookmark, and check back frequently, or sign up for my Electroforming Mailing List for updates:

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Be a Thrifty Scientist!

Here is a list of materials you'll need if you would like to make your own electroforming solution and conductive paint. This is the much cheaper option than buying the premade items, but keep in mind that you must bring your patience and prepare for a lot of practice, trial and error!

Homemade Graphite Conductive Paint Supply List:

Wide Mouth Jar - I use several jars to make varying consistencies for the needs of my different mediums(dipping, brushing, spraying). Make sure to use an air tight plastic lid, or something that won't rust!

Air bubbles are unwanted! If you see any air bubbles on your piece(from air that was trapped in crevices during initial submersion into the plating tank), gently jiggle your wire until you see all the bubbles shake off. You might want to switch off your power supply, in case jiggling tampers with the connection. Failure to do so during the beginning will cause pockets of unplated spots, as it does not plate under the bubbles

Always be sure your organic pieces are fully dried and sealed with a water based protective coating before painting with conductive paint to prevent contamination of your paint and solution

Once you've had a better feel for plating, try to increase your amps in the first hour to help get a faster initial coat, then turn it back down. Leaving it on high for too long can "burn" your piece and make your plating too coarse or brittle. It is helpful to use this method for the first coat, since prolonged exposure to the solution can dissolve the conductive painted parts if they aren't plated fast enough

Titanium wire also is less prone to fusing of the suspension wire to the piece

The more contact points from your suspension wire to your piece, the faster initial plating coverage. For example- suspension with your wire that spirals around your piece(photos coming soon!). This should be experimented with only after you have become more comfortable with electroforming

If you are brushing on your conductive paint, keep your brush strokes smooth and fluid, to ensure a smooth and even plating, as the finished plate will translate rough brushstrokes

Always use distilled water when cleaning your brushes, tank, etc, to prevent contamination

There is no shame in needing to repaint spots you may have missed after plating. Try to catch it soon, otherwise you will have uneven layers of your copper plate. When repainting over a piece that has already started plating, thoroughly rinse your piece with distilled water and fully dry it before repainting the needed spots. I've made the mistake of painting on a piece that still had some solution residue dried on it- and the paint will clump and crumble right off!

Yes, you can plate multiple pieces at once. You'll need to make sure they are all connected on the same wire, or at least all on an conductive bus bar, and you'll have to increase your amps accordingly(.1 amp per square inch). Only attempt after you're more confident in your plating practice

You can incorporate aggregation (fish bubbler) to your tank set up if you are having issues with striations or unwanted patterned textures due to proximity of anode/cathode. I haven't had too much success with this, but I'll provide more resources and research on aggregation once I learn it

As an alternative to painting with a brush, use wide mouthed jars of relocated conductive paint to dip pieces in, removing any excess dripping with a soft brush

Old phone books and text books work as wonderful leaf and flower presses! Leave in for a minimum of 3 days, but best at a week+

A low setting flat iron can also help to speed up the drying process of leaves (put paper or fabric over to protect them!)

Vegetable Glycerin is a fantastic solution to keep on hand. It can be used to soften and preserve organic materials that you need to be flexible for your project. More details and tutorials on that soon!

If you want a lacey leaf look- a baking soda wash will help to skeletonize leaves, gently brushing out the fleshy pulp. A good tutorial can be found here.

If you would like to patina your piece for an antiqued/oxidized look, liver of sulfur works very fast and very well. It smells awful, but is great. Experiment with different water temperatures for some wonderful color effects

Additional photos and video tutorials & more resources coming soon!

This page is a constant work in progress!Be sure to bookmark, and check back frequently, or sign up for my Electroforming Mailing List for updates:

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