I've searched, and found a ton of posts here, and elsewhere on the subject, but all are based on complete dis-assembly of the handgun.

I've seen enough to convince me that the re-assembly of this weapon is not something that I'd like to tackle.

So, I'm looking for a finish that doesn't require media blasting so that I don't have to strip this thing into all it's little pieces...

I'm probably going to use Duracoat on the metals (probably Plasti-Dip on the grips until I get new Marschals), and their prep guide doesn't mention "previously painted surfaces"- since, after all, the finish on the CZ is, paint...

Do I need to remove, or can I go over it since it's in reasonably good condition, with wear in those areas you'd expect to see it?

Any reason I can't break it down to the major components- slide, main body, trigger guard- mask off the internal moving parts, prep, spray, and even bake if I decide to use the Dura-Bake?

I sincerely believe you will not be happy with the refinish, if you do not detail strip the frame, slide, & other internal components. The best thing i can advise you to do is, ship the whole pistol to "robar" in arizona or to "coal creek armory" in tennessee, for a professional refinish, utilizing the latest in coating technologies.

Thanks for the info...
The pricing from Coal Creek Armory looks very fair- almost too fair at around $150... I know I'd be working for less than minimum wage if I tried it for that price. Their pricing doesn't specify type of handgun, so I'd better check with them to see if that would hold for a handgun as complicated as the 82.

All of my personal experience has been with "robar" in arizona. I am especially gung-ho on their famous "np3" finish. It is expensive, but the lifetime benefits make the initial cost really cheap !!!!!

I suggested "cca" in tenn as an alternative, as their $$$$ is lower than robar's & this may be of concern with you.

Regardless of who refinishes your cz pistol, the pistol will be detail stripped & the internal parts will be plated along with the slide, frame, & the outside of the barrel. Your pistol will arrive completely assembled & ready for you to shoot. Lube well & give the weapon about 200 rounds to smooth things out after plating.

If possible, take some before pics & some after the refinish has been done. Then send the pics to the smithy section & a short memo about your experience with the platter of your choice.

Now, I don't like duracoat aka Polane-T for a variety of reasons. It's not as durable as they claim, it has zero chemical resistance, it won't burnish, it's too thick for internal parts, etc, etc. However, none of those reasons can account for this awful mess. This butcher didn't know how to take a SIG apart so he didn't. Please don't misunderstand! I'm not whacking on anybody for not being able to or not wanting to disassemble a firearm. The CZ82 is not really difficult but it does have a couple of tricky spots. What I'm venting about is the person who claims to be a Gunsmith who then does this type of hack mess. Ok, vent mode off!

Onward! The preparation is more than half of the total job. Proper surface prep will make it look good and last a long time. Improper surface prep can lead to bad things happening to the metal under the finish. The CZ82 is a great little pistol and very popular as a CCW. If your's is worth refinishing, then it's worth doing it right no matter who you have do it.http://www.shootiniron.com/2010%20CZ82.jpg Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Ironshttp://www.shootiniron.com

Thanks for the advice/opinions.
I know I'm gonna get flamed for "why did you ask if you don't want to heed the advice", but I am disagreeing with the need for complete disassembly.

I see no reason to strip down and remove internal parts- which aren't visible, and don't need to be painted for appearance's sake- if they are completely removed from the areas that need to be painted, and can be completely masked off and protected.

I have already begun removing the paint, carefully applying paste paint remover in the areas I want to strip, and protecting those areas I don't so nothing gets gummed up.

I'm not stupid enough to paint moving parts so that they're stuck together... I think a little common sense can go a long way here. This isn't refinishing for the sake of protecting the metal parts- it's strictly for appearance.

I've painted five rifles, admittedly much simpler than handguns, with good results. I'll see if a little common sense yields acceptable results.

Here is my CZ-82 that I blued without a complete disassembly of the piece. I DID strip it down as far as removing the trigger guard/slide lock. I disassembled the magazine release and remove the main spring and retainer. The entire peice was degreased and dried with compressed air. I glass beaded it after it was completely dry and blew out the loose bead with shop air. I cleaned all parts in Brownell's 909 cleaner and blued. I think it turned out pretty nice. <http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=604882> You mileage may vary.

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