7/7/15
- Battle
Arms Development, most well known for their line of modular ambidextrous
safety selectors and other small accessories, has expanded their lineup
to include full rifles and larger components. Two of these new offerings
are their Light Weight Butt Stock for Milspec receiver extensions, and
Sabertube Stock.

Light Weight Butt Stock for milspec receiver
extensions - The BAD-LBS-MIL
is an aluminum butt stock that fit all mil-spec receiver extensions.
Note that it also fits the Vltor A5 or BCM intermediate extension as
those follow the mil-spec profile. It's a clean, minimalistic but functional
item, and adds only 3.0 oz to the weapon. The butt stock has a slight
angle to it at the heel, and a chevron pattern on the back for traction
in the shoulder. The toe is angled even more at the bottom.

Installation - The BAD-LBS-MIL
simply slips onto the end of the receiver extension, and the clamp screw
is tightened. Viola! You've now got a butt stock on your receiver extension!

Installed on A5 receiver extension

Carbine receiver extension

A5 receiver extension

Notes/Observations -
The BAD-LBS-MIL is half the weight of the lightest polymer stocks, but
of course, you give up the capability to adjust the length of pull.
The BAD-LBS-MIL adds about a 1/4" in length to the receiver extension,
so the length of pull is basically dependent on the receiver extension
used. On a carbine-length receiver extension, it's equivalent to shouldering
the rifle with a collapsible butt stock fully closed. I'm not a big
guy and I find it pretty short. It's more suitable for an SBR set up
as a PDW, with the understanding that the user is going to be rotating
the shoulder pocket forward and shooting NTCH. Or, for use with a plate
carrier where the plate adds standoff distance when the butt stock is
placed on the plate vs. the shoulder.

The aluminum butt stock has decent purchase on the shoulder over nylon
gear - it's a matte finish so it's not slippery. I'd say that it's about
the same as a polymer stock, but not as good as one with a rubber pad.

I found the Vltor A5 receiver extension to be the minimum suitable
length for using the BAD-LBS-MIL (for me); as the 3/4" it adds
over the carbine extension makes quite a bit of difference. It's short,
but not cramped - it's the same as the 1st position out on a collapsible
stock. Another viable option is to use it in conjunction with the Law
Tactical AR Folding Stock Adapter, which adds 1.3" to the length
of pull. The folding stock adapter and LBS-MIL buttstock would make
for a compact, low bulk setup.

Sabertube BAD-LBS
Light Weight Stock Combo - The Sabertube/BAD-LBS
Light Weight Stock combo is a minimalist stock that's made up of
two components: a proprietary, unique-looking buffer tube and butt stock.
There are two versions; the one shown here that does not have a end
plate, and a version that has an end plate for QD sling swivel. The
total weight of the combination is 6.8 oz.

The main features of the Sabertube (BAD-LRE-M-B)
are:

Precision CNC machined from billet 6061 aluminum

MilSpec Type III Class 2 hard anodized black

Unique, light weight and functional dimpled pattern design

Designed for use with a carbine spring and buffer

Fits lower receivers with captive rear takedown pin detent
spring

Does not use receiver end plates or a castle nut

Made in USA

The main features of the Light Weight Butt Stock
(BAD-LBS) for the Sabertube are:

Precision CNC machined from billet 7075 T6 aluminum

MilSpec Type III Class 2 hard anodized black

Built-in non-rotating QD socket for sling swivel

Light weight (2.8 oz) - stock only

Grade 5 titanium screw

Compatible with Sabertube only

The Sabertube is 1-3/4" longer than a standard carbine tube, but
uses a carbine spring and buffer as the internal length is the same
as a carbine tube. I'd like to see an A5-compatible version of the Sabertube,
since all that needs to be changed is the location of the rear wall.
The Sabertube is dimpled along its entire length for weight reduction,
which is its most distinctive feature. The front of the Sabertube threads
into the rear of the receiver. There is no keyway for a receiver end
plate, as it doesn't need one. It indexes on the shoulder and cannot
be screwed into the receiver any further.

The BAD-LBS for the Sabertube is different from the BAD-LBS-MIL shown
above, and is only compatible with the Sabertube. It has a clamp that
secures it to the end of the Sabertube. Every effort has been made to
lighten it, including a titanium screw and material removed from the
toe. It has a rotation-limited QD sling swivel socket in the middle,
vs at the toe.

Sabertube

Sabertube vs. carbine extension

BAD-LBS vs. BAD-LBS-MIL

Sabertube installed

Since the Sabertube doesn't use a receiver end plate, it's compatible
only with lower receivers that have captive rear takedown pin detent
springs, like the BAD556-LW lower receiver. However, it's extremely
inexpensive and simple to install a set screw on any receiver. All you
need is a 4-40 tap and set screw. I paid about $3 for the tap and 20
cents for the set screw at the local hardware store. All you have to
do is tap the first 1/8" of the detent spring hole at the rear
of the receiver. Go slow and check the depth of the set screw; tapping
the hole until the set screw bottoms out when flush with the rear of
the receiver. Trim 1/8" in length off detent spring, and install
the rear takedown pin normally, capturing the spring with the set screw.
You can still use a receiver end plate with the receiver for a normal
build, but the captive spring makes it easier to install and remove
end plates/receiver extensions.

The Sabertube simply threads into the end of the receiver, bottoming
out on the shoulder. There are no provisions for a wrench; nor does
the Sabertube lock in place. I used an improvised strap wrench to tighten
the Sabertube to the receiver. The butt stock is installed onto the
end; clocked by eyeball and the titanium screw tightened. The Sabertube
with LBS is shown below compared to a receiver with Vltor IMod stock
one click out. The number of clicks out depends on the receiver extension.
Anyways, the distance from the rear of the LBS to the rear of the receiver
is approximately 8.4".

4-40 tap and set screw

Tapping the hole

Sabertube installation

LOP comparison

Notes/Observations -
Like the BAD-LBS-MIL, the Sabertube/LBS combination is a minimalist/light
weight set up, for those who are willing to forego adjustable length
of pull. At 8.4", the Sabertube is just the right length for me,
but someone taller or with longer arms may find it too short. It's equivalent
to running a carbine stock one to two clicks out (approximately - depending
on the receiver extension). My initial thought when seeing the dimples
was 'that doesn't look that comfortable', but it's actually not bad.
Not quite as comfortable as a smooth plastic surface, but nothing to
complain about. If I had to change something though, I'd go with dimples
with rounded bottoms like a gold ball, instead of dimples with square
bottoms, so that each hole wouldn't have an edge. I also found the aluminum
buttplate less comfortable than a stock with a rubber butt pad, which
is to be expected, especially in the prone position where it's more
against the collarbone than in the shoulder pocket.

There are other things to consider when using the Sabertube or the
BAD-LBS-MIL; in extreme temperatures (cold or hot), it might not be
as comfortable initially to the bare cheek as a plastic stock. Not that
that's stopped people from using metal-stocked weapons for decades like
the Uzi, MP5, G3, AK folder, Sten etc. I left the rifle in the trunk
of my car while eating lunch at the range and it was pretty hot afterwards.

The BAD-LBS-MIL and Sabertube take 'minimalist' to the next level on
an AR and are specialized items intended for those wanting something
simple and light weight; and can live with the fixed length of pull.
They're not for everyone, but then, Battle Arms Development is thinking
out of the box and not all of their products are meant for the masses.

Background - A PDW (Personal
Defense Weapon) seems to be a nebulous term that could probably be applied
to just about anything that one could carry and use in defense of one's
life; such as a pistol. In this context, it describes what used to be
a class of firearms that comprised of compact shoulder-fired automatic
weapons that could defeat body armour; smaller than an assault rifle
but with better penetration than a pistol-cartridge powered sub-machinegun.
When I think of 'PDW', the HK MP5-K PDW introduced in the early 90's
immediately comes to mind, even though it still used the 9x19 round.
The FN P90 and HK MP7 were designed from the ground up as PDWs, including
their proprietary cartridges. More recently, the term 'PDW' has been
expanded to include sub-compact assault rifles, which are essentially
greatly shortened versions of their standard-length counterparts (even
shorter than carbines). These PDWs fire rifle cartridges, at the expense
of reduced muzzle velocity and increased muzzle blast.

AR-15 pistols, long regarded as novelties, have seen increased interest
over the past few years. A pistol is any weapon having a barrel length
of under 16" and does not possess a stock. Shooting an AR-15 pistol
is a challenge if you're trying to be accurate, and it's helped marginally
by stabilizing the stock-less buffer tube against the cheek. Wringing
out the most controllability out of a pistol-length AR-15 requires a
shoulder stock. This, however, then classifies it as an SBR. A short-barreled
rifle (SBR) is one with a stock and a barrel length of under 16"
or overall length of under 26"; and requires a $200 tax stamp as
they are regulated by the BATFE . PDWs by definition fall under the
SBR umbrella, being short-barreled weapons with stocks.

So, when it comes to the AR-15, what's the difference between an SBR
and a PDW? I don't really seen it defined anywhere, but I'd say that
a carbine stock and barrel of 10.5" would be an SBR and the combination
of an even shorter barrel and specialized sub-carbine length stock would
be a PDW. The AR-15 buffer tube is the limiting factor in reducing overall
length (of the receiver). In order to have a stock shorter than carbine
length; there are two options: go with a side folder like the Law
Tactical AR folding stock adapter, or use a buffer tube that's even
shorter than a carbine tube.

Most AR-15 PDW stocks on the market today utilize a shortened buffer
tube with rails/guide rods, that slide through a housing allowing the
user to collapse and extend the stock. Something like a more sophisticated
version of the M231 Firing Port Weapon's wire stock.

BAD VERT PWD Stock System
- When BAD started developing their VERT PDW stock, they looked at the
PDW stocks available on the market and aimed to address all the shortcomings
of each design. They approached it with two solutions; a dedicated lower
receiver with monolithic/integrated stock guides - their BAD
Monolithic PDW Lower Receiver + Vert Stock System, and the VERT
PDW Stock System for standard AR-15 lowers shown here. BAD's VERT
PDW Stock has an ultra compact buffer and buffer tube, offers continuous
cheek rest, and a collapsed length of 4.7" (compared to the 6.25"
length of a standard carbine stock).

Some of the goals that BAD set for their PDW stock system were:

Light weight

Use of standard bolt carrier; not a proprietary carrier. No carrier
adapter needed.

Continuous cheek weld

Ability to pivot (shotgun) the upper open for field service

Smooth action without large slot cuts in the rail that weaken it

Lockable in both directions

Single hand use

Last year, George told me excitedly over the phone saying 'We cracked
the code!', meaning that they'd met all their goals in the new BAD VERT
PDW prototype.

Description - The main
components of the VERT stock system are the stock housing, butt stock,
guide rods, buffer tube, buffer and spring, and cheek rest. The stock
housing and butt stock are machined from aluminum and the guide rods
are S7 tool steel. The 7075 aluminum butt is similar in configuration
to BAD's LBS-MIL reviewed previously. It has
an approximately 5-degree heel angle, and angled toe, and four chevrons
for grip. All edges are smoothed out and rounded for comfort. A rotation-limited
QD sling swivel socket is located at the toe of the butt. The removable
cheek rest is made of carbon fiber-look kydex.

The stock housing is machined out of 6061 aluminum with a large lightening
hole at the bottom and a low-vis BAD logo marking on the left side.
There are two holes where the guide rods run through, which are lined
with non-metal bushings for buttery smooth function. Instead of notching
out the guide rods to lock the stock in the different positions, the
guide rods have ball bearing guides and five detents each on the inside.
The guide rods have a diameter of .315", which provides extra clearance
than thicker rods for access to the safety levers should there be the
need to fire with the stock fully collapsed.

Pressing the button/latch on the bottom of the housing releases the
spring-loaded ball bearings from their detents and allows the guide
rods to slide through the housing. Releasing the latch locks the stock
in place at the next detent. The stock locks in both directions. Note
that the guide rods are different lengths, with the right side rod being
shorter to provide clearance to non-standard lowers with right-side
ambi bolt releases. There's a second rotation-limited QD sling swivel
socket at the rear of the housing.

The buffer tube is roughly 5.1" long, and has splines at the end
for the proprietary stock wrench that is supplied with the kit. The
steel wrench is nicely made, and is light enough to carry in your cleaning
kit just in case the buffer tube needs tightening. The buffer tube has
a shoulder which secures the housing to the lower receiver, when the
buffer tube is threaded into the receiver. There's a drain hole at the
rear of the tube.

Stock housing

Bottom of housing

Detents on guide rods

Buffer tube

Buffer tube wrench

Wrench on rear of buffer tube

One of the challenges of designing the PDW stock was how to shorten
the buffer. AR-15 pistols and SBRs generally use carbine-length buffers
and tubes. Shortening the tube by 1.5" means that a carbine buffer
could not be used, and a shorter one had to be designed. It's also not
as easy as just shortening the buffer; the bolt carrier also needs to
extend into the buffer tube the same distance it did before. Other manufacturers
have come up with various solutions to the issue, like proprietary bolt
carriers with integrated buffers that extend into the buffer tube. BAD
wanted to retain the use of the standard bolt carrier group, and instead
designed an ultra-compact buffer that collapses.

The buffer is constructed of stainless steel, and has a spring and
captured collar. The collar sits against the back of the bolt carrier
and when pushed back, allows the beveled nose of the buffer to telescope
into the rear cavity of the bolt carrier in the last part of the stroke.
The system also uses a proprietary shortened recoil spring. A comparison
of the VERT spring and buffer vs. a standard carbine system is illustrated
below.

The buffer is intended to be used with a mil-spec M16 bolt carrier
in a direct impingement system only. Half circle carriers or those with
non-standard dimensions (0.626" depth and internal diameter minimum
required) will not work. The inside of the bolt carrier must be free
of obstruction, so that means that soild-filled 9mm bolt carriers cannot
be used. BAD also states that nickle boron bolt carriers should not
be used with the VERT system. The standard VERT buffer has a tungsten
weight inside it for a 3.9 oz (H1) overall weight. It can be lightened
by replacing the tungsten with steel. The advantages of the VERT system
is that it does not require a proprietary bolt carrier and the upper
can be 'shotgunned' open for maintenance.

Carbine vs. VERT buffer

Carbine vs. VERT buffers & springs

VERT Buffer and spring assembly

Ultra-compact buffer

Telescoping buffer

Buffer extends into bolt carrier cavity

Installation - To install
the VERT stock, the kydex cheek rest is first removed by unscrewing
the four screws that secure it to the butt stock. The stock housing
is aligned to the receiver, ensuring that the takedown pin detent spring
is compressed properly. The buffer tube is then inserted through the
stock housing and threaded into the receiver until it is tight and the
buffer retainer detent is locked in place. It's helpful to put a small
amount of grease on the buffer tube threads before installing it to
prevent galling. The supplied stock wrench is then used to tighten the
buffer tube to a maximum of 20 ft-lbs. The cheek rest is then reinstalled,
ensuring that the front of it is flush with the buffer tube. I put thread
locker on the cheek rest screws. The buffer and spring are then lightly
lubricated and installed.

As you can see from the photos below, the buffer face as a beveled
nub that protrudes and centers it in the rear of the bolt carrier. When
installing the upper, I just mate it to the lower then slide it backwards;
rather than mating it at the pivot pin and swinging it down, as the
sharp corners at the bottom of the bolt carrier can scratch the nub
on the buffer. It doesn't affect function, but there's no reason to
cause unnecessary wear to a component if it's just a matter of convenience.
I find it easier to clean the rifle with the upper and lower separated
anyway.

Cheek rest removed

Stock assembly positioned on rear of receiver

Buffer tube installed and tightened

Buffer tube installed

Cheek rest installed

Buffer installed

Top view

Shown below is the VERT PDW stock installed on the BAD556-LW
lower receiver, compared to a standard lower with BCM stock. The VERT
stock is substantially shorter when collapsed, and equivalent to about
two positions open on the BCM stock, depending on the buffer tube. It's
not quite as long when fully extended, but should be comfortable for
all but the tallest shooters. The guide rods do cover the takedown pin
in all but the last two open positions, so the VERT stock needs to be
extended to push the pin to the left. When collapsed, there's still
enough clearance for ambi safety lever access.

Installed on BAD556-LW lower receiver

5 positions (including fully collapsed)

Fully collapsed

Equivalent fully extended

Fully extended

Charging handle clearance

The VERT PDW stock is a specialized product; designed for short-barreled
rifles. Since my lower is not registered as an SBR, I can only install
a rifle-length upper on it. By no means is it useless on a carbine or
rifle; it's about as short as can be without a side-folding stock. Pictured
below, the rifle measures 30.1" with the VERT fully collapsed and
weighs 6.0 lbs.

Notes/Observations -
There's always a give-and-take when it comes to sub-compact AR stocks
due to the technical challenges presented when you go shorter than carbine-length.
BAD set out to minimize the drawbacks like proprietary bolt carriers,
carrier adapters, stock wobble etc, and with the VERT stock, I believe
they've accomplished it. Like the other products that BAD has put out,
my first impression of the VERT PDW stock was that it was solidly built,
and a high-quality piece of engineering/manufacturing. I'm not advocating
form over function, but I find the BAD VERT stock the most aethetically
pleasing of the PDW stocks currently available. I'm not a huge fan of
the carbon fiber look on the cheek rest and would have preferred plain
black kydex with a fine, non-glare texture. Too much texture and it
could be abrasive on the cheekbone after a while.

Installation was a breeze using the clear instructions that BAD includes
with the kit. The kydex cheek rest is a nice feature that sets it apart
from the rest. If you shoot NTCH, your cheek is going to end up on the
buffer tube anyway, so it's a nice-to-have feature, not a necessity.
There can, however, be certain shooting positions where NTCH isn't possible,
and having a continuous cheek weld is good to have. It also gives the
rifle a more 'complete' look. The cheek rest can be swapped out, and
BAD is planning on offering different cheek pieces in the future.

The guide rods slide very smoothly in the stock housing on non-metal
bushing liners, and lock via ball bearings. The use of non-metal bushing
liners limits the temperature to 175°F that the stock housing can
be exposed to when curing paint like Cerakote. The release latch, on
the bottom of the housing, is less intuitive than having it on the sliding
part of the butt stock itself, but I figured out that pressing the latch
with my index finger while pushing back on the front of the cheek rest
with my thumb enables me to extend the stock one-handed to whatever
position I choose. If I want to fully extend the stock, simple holding
the rifle vertically with the muzzle up and pressing in the latch extends
the stock fully as the operation is so smooth.

The guide rods are of different lengths, with the right side one being
shorter to be compatible with integral ambi bolt release lowers. There
is very little play in the stock when locked; just a little bit fore-aft
which disappears the moment you shoulder the weapon, and essentially
no veritcal or lateral wobble at all; even in the fully extended position.
It really feels solid. BAD is confident in the strength of the VERT
system and stated that clearing stuck cases by mortaring the stock is
fine. I'd fully collapse it before doing so, just like any carbine stock.
The step down from the cheek rest to the buffer tube is minimal and
no different from shooting a carbine stock.

While the design of the VERT allows the user to break open the AR-15
like a shotgun for field maintenance, I found it just more convenient
to separate the upper and lower completely. The nub on the front of
the buffer tube is spring loaded, so it's depressed when the uppers
is swung open or closed. But, as mentioned before, I don't like the
way the sharp edges at the bottom of the bolt carrier (the buffer detent
channel) scratch the nub when the upper is closed.

In the fully extended position, the stock length is perfect for me,
and equivalent to a carbine stock being extended a couple of notches
from fully retracted. This might be a bit short for taller folks with
long arms, but again, this is a PDW stock designed for close quarters
and cramped environments. At the range, I fully expected the felt recoil
to be harsher than a standard carbine buffer system, but that proved
to be not the case. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the
ultra short VERT buffer performs as advertised, and felt recoil isn't
increased. The BAD upper I have is already quite soft-shooting, even
though it's a light weight upper, and using it on the VERT-equipped
lower was downright pleasurable. The captured secondary spring in the
H1 weight buffer slows down the carrier during its last half inch of
travel, and helps soften recoil. I did notice increased spring noise
in the dry buffer tube until I put some Frog lube grease inside; then
it went away.

Again, it's important to mention that the rear hole in the bolt carrier
must be a minimum of 0.625" ID and be free from rough ridges or
coarse machine marks. Make sure that the bolt carrier used with the
Vert buffer has a smooth interior and check that the buffer extends
into it without hanging up before installing it in the weapon.

I shot both Wolf and PMC ammo through the rifle without any issues.
The only thing different that I noticed with the VERT system was that
when locking the bolt back manually by pulling the charging handle back,
I needed to do it authoritatively to overcome the captured spring during
the last bit of carrier travel. The first time I thought I had locked
the bolt back, the bolt catch had engaged the front face of the bolt
carrier instead of the bolt itself. So, when I loaded a mag and dropped
the bolt, it over rode the first round and I got an empty chamber. I
quickly figured it out and made sure I gave the charging handle a good
tug the next time to lock the carrier back fully.

While the VERT stock is intended for PDW-type weapons, I don't see
any disadvantage to using it on carbines like the one I have (except
for parts commonality/interchangeability if something fails at the range).
I bring my rifles to the range in my EMDOM
TNT GYM Bag (Extended) with the upper and lower separated to fit
in the 30" overall length of the bag. With the VERT stock, I'm
able to put the rifle with 16" barrel in the bag without having
to separate the upper and lower. Imagine how compact an 8" barreled
SBR would be. While a side-folding adapter makes the package even shorter,
it also increases the width of the weapon with the stock folded to the
side, and you cannot fire more than one shot with it folded. With the
VERT stock, you can fire it fully collapsed or extended. Just some things
to consider.

With the VERT PDW stock, BAD has raised the bar when it comes to PDW
stocks for the AR-15, from which the customer can only benefit from.

It's taken BCM a while to release their KeyMod rail panel covers. Earlier
versions were advertised on the website but never put up for sale, as
they hadn't worked to BCM's satisfaction. The wait was worthwhile, though,
as the final production version shown here work perfectly. They're offered
as kits of five (5) panels in a matching colour.

Description - The BCM
KeyMod Rail Panel Covers come in only one length, of 5.55", and
can be trimmed if need be. They're made of high-strength polymer in
the U.S.A. Some of the key features of the panel covers are:

Made to fit all KeyMod mounting surfaces with seven consecutive
KeyMod slots (can be shortened)

Ultra-slim and radiused surface to allow a 'round' handguard feeling,
from an octagonal profile

Bi-directional - locking tabs on either end allow panels to be installed
either way

Can be trimmed to any length

Eack kit contains five matching KeyMod panel strips

For a while, BCM was showing the unreleased version of the panels
in the photo below on the left, with the horseshoe-shaped holes. They
never came in stock because they didn't perform to BCM's satisfaction,
so KeyMod aficiandos waited (im)patiently. The production version shown
here lives up to expectations are are worth the wait. The panels are
5.55" long and cover seven consecutive KeyMod slots. The surface
is textured with the same non-slip/non-reflective pattern used on their
GUNFIGHTER grips. Instead of the horseshoe holes seen on the prototypes,
the production model has horizontal cooling slots. The panel has a curved
profile which rounds out the slab-sided KeyMod interface on handguards.

On the back of the panels are molded 'plugs' with little tabs which
snap into the KeyMod slots. The panels are installed by simply starting
at either end of the panel, and pressing the plugs into the KeyMod slots
sequentially. Once installed, they're solid and there's no way they're
coming out unintentionally. To remove them, insert something thin/sharp
(but non-marring) to grab and edge or corner, then pull them off. My
son's Lego brick separator works perfectly for removing the panels (thanks
to TwangnBang for pointing that out in his video).
The panels are flexible (to a certain extent) and can be used over and
over.

The panels are very low profile, and only span the nominal width of
the KeyMod interface (approximately .6"). This enables them to
be used all KeyMod surfaces. Shortening the panel is easy; I've scored
them with an X-acto knife then bent them to break them. You can also
use scissors or snips. You don't even have to cut between the plugs,
you can cut right in the middle of them and they'll hold. Then, I just
cleaned up the edge with sandpaper to round it off a bit.

Un-released version

FDE, Foliage, Wolf and Black

Back details

Fortis Switch rail

Lego brick separator

Cut down panel

Shortened panel

Since the panels are so narrow, they only cover the width of a single
KeyMod interface; they don't wrap around a handguard. On the BCM KMR,
with its octagonal cross-section, seven panels can be installed such
that they create a rounded cross section. Some handguards, like the
Fortis Switch rail above or the Noveske NSR below, only have three KeyMod
interfaces, at 3 , 6 and 9 o'clock.

On BCM KMR

FDE

Wolf

Noveske NSR

Vltor VIS-KM

Notes/Observations -
These aren't really 'rail covers' or 'rail panels', since the KeyMod
interface isn't a rail. They're just 'covers' or 'panels'; but everyone
will still know what you're referring to by 'rail covers'. I really
like them. They weigh next to nothing and are so low profile they add
very little bulk to a handguard. However, thin as they are; they do
provide good insulation as well as a ton of additional grip due to their
aggressive texture. I shot with and without gloves, and the KeyMod panels
offered enough insulation to negate the need for gloves even when going
through a couple of mags quickly. Covering up the KeyMod holes will
obviously affect air flow to some degree; but I doubt that it's going
to make a difference, especially if the panels are strategically placed
and the entire handguard isn't sealed up with panels. The BCM KeyMod
panels look good, they're inexpensive, and work really well. One of
the best KeyMod accessories ever!

On 13" BCM-KMR

BCM
M-LOK Accessories

11/5/17
-Bravo Company
USA has introduced M-LOK versions of their popular accessories.
Pictured here are their Rail Panels, KAG and Vertical Grip.

M-Lok is the direct-attach method free-licensed by Magpul
Industries Corp, whereas KeyMod
is the open-source creation of a partnership between Vltor
and Noveske.
Both allow direct attachment of accessories to handguards without the
need for adding Picatinny rails; reducing weight and bulk. BCM has been
a champion of the KeyMod system, which is not surprising as BCM's main
designer is Eric Kincel; who started Vltor. By introducing M-Lok accessories,
BCM has shown that they don't suffer from the 'Not invented here' syndrome,
which benefits the customer who now has more options to choose from.

Rail Covers
- The BCM MCMR (M-Lok Compatible Modular Rail) Rail Panel Covers come
in only one length, of 5.55", and can be trimmed if need be. They're
made of high-strength polymer in the U.S.A. Some of the key features
of the panel covers are:

Made to fit all M-Lok mounting surfaces

Ultra-slim and radiused surface to allow a 'round' handguard feeling,
from an octagonal profile

Bi-directional - locking tabs on either end allow panels to be installed
either way

Can be trimmed to any length

Eack kit contains five panel strips

The main difference between the M-Lok panels and the KeyMod panels
are the molded 'plugs' with little tabs which snap into the M-Lok slots.
The panels are installed by simply starting at either end of the panel,
and pressing the plugs into the M-Lok slots sequentially. Once installed,
they're solid and there's no way they're coming out unintentionally.
To remove them, insert something thin/sharp (but non-marring) to grab
and edge or corner, then pull them off. The panels are flexible (to
a certain extent) and can be used over and over.

The panels are very low profile, and only span .625". This enables
them to be used all M-Lok surfaces. Shortening the panel is easy; I've
scored them with an X-acto knife then bent them to break them. You can
also use scissors or snips. You don't even have to cut between the plugs,
you can cut right in the middle of them and they'll hold. Then, I just
cleaned up the edge with sandpaper to round it off a bit.

BCM M-Lok rail panels (FDE)

KeyMod vs. M-Lok panels

Installed on KDG SCAR handguard

KAG - The KAG
(Kinesthetic Angled Grip) is a small grip that functions more like
a hand stop. It has an angled ramp which leads to a forward-raked grip
that is only about an inch and a half tall. The KAG is made from molded
polymer and is available in Picatinny, KeyMod and M-Lok versions. Some
of the key features of the BCMGUNFIGHTER KAG are:

Forward rake provides positive retention when using 'C-clamp' (thumb
over bore) method of handguard support

Can be used as a rest for supported firing positions

Slight angle without significant bulk adds just the right amount
of relief to the wrist without substantially increasing the girth
of the handguard

The M-Lok verison of the KAG shares the same features as its KeyMod
version, except for the direct-attach M-Lok interface. Instead of a
metal KeyMod anchor, it has two M-Lok T-nuts that engage the slots in
the hand guard, plus a recoil lug. It utilizes two screws to snug the
T-nuts to the rail, accessed through the bottom of the grip. To install
the grip, the screws are loosened then pushed in with the included wrench
so that the nuts protrude from the base. The T-nuts are inserted through
the hnadguard slots, and the screws are then tightened.

Low-profile length for increased mobility and decreased chance of
snagging

Incorporates a forward or rearward angle (reversable) for a more
natural wrist angle

Flat sides with aggressive texture for better yaw control during
firing and non-firing manipulations

Weight 1.9 ounces

Height 2.75"

Width 1.25"

The M-Lok verison of the Mod 3 shares the same features as its KeyMod
version, except for the mounting interface. It has a two T-nuts that
engage the slots in a M-Lok hand guard. It utilizes the two screw to
snug the T-nuts to the rail, accessed through the bottom of the grip.
To install the grip, the screws are loosened then pushed in with the
included wrench so that the nuts protrude from the base. The nuts are
inserted through the slots and the screws are then tightened. I've illustrated
it below mounted to a KDG SCAR-16 handguard. It now sits flush to the
bottom of the handguard whereas the Picatinny version of the Mod 3 only
sat as low as the rail that it was attached to (which is why the SHORT
grip worked better even though it was wider at the top). The M-Lok Mod
3 is now perfect.

About Tyrant Designs -
Tyrant Designs CNC is a Chicago-based company that branched out into
firearms accessries after 30 years of machining experience in the
defense, aerospace and medical industries. They currently specialize
in CNC-machined grips for the AR-15 series of weapons.

Description
- The HandStop is a short version of Tyrant's Halo
MiniVert Grip; and is a machined aluminum, skeletonized hand stop
that is 1.5" long, 0.65" wide and weighs less than an ounce
(0.9oz). The HandStop is angled back approximately 35° (my own
guesstimate) and has horizontal knurls/grooves on the front and back
surfaces for traction. There's a small bump on the front bottom corner
to aid in keeping the hand in place. The transition to the handguard
is tapered and comfortable. The top of the HandStop features a recoil
lug that is compatible with both KeyMod and MLOK systems. Note that
the while the HandStop is reversible on MLOK handguards, it only fits
on KeyMod handguards one way. Edges are chamfered both outside and
inside.

The HandStop is available with KeyMod or MLOK hardware,
or with both (shown here).

HandStop Keymod and MLOK kit

Recoil lugs

There is a hole at the top of the HandStop through
which a screw for the KeyMod nut or MLOK T-nut is secured. Tightening
or loosening the hardware requires ball-end hex wrenches (included)
inserted at an angle as there is no direct-access hole at the bottom.

Installation

Mounted to BCM KMR

Note/observations
- To be honest, the Tyrant Designs HandStop is a bit off the beaten
path for me. I had checked out their site before, and while the products
looked well-made, their aesthetic and function just didn't appeal
to me personally. When it comes to components for my AR15s, I tend
to avoid brightly anodized colours and skeletonized aluminum controls,
and especially anything with more than one finger swell/groove. I'd
rather have a hand-filling molded plastic grip as it's more comfortable
to me. I've always associated bright anodized colours with competition
shooting, which I haven't done in years, but do realize that they're
much more popular now than a decade ago. Some companies (like Battle
Arms Development) have been able to cater to a wide customer base
by offering functional products in both 'subdued' and 'bling' finishes.
Over the years, I've also moved away from full size vertical grips;
preferring the shorter stubby ones. So when Tyrant came out with their
Halo HandStop, it looked much more like something I'd use.

I typically use a vertical grip with my support hand
while shooting to add some rearward pressure without having to grip
the handguard as tightly. If you're grabbing onto the end of a broom
stick while someone's trying to pull it away from you, you have to
grip it tightly to keep your hand from sliding off. With a vertical
grip or handstop, it helps prevents your hand from sliding off, and
the amount of strength needed to hold onto the broomstick is reduced.
Another consideration (for me) is that I'm not shooting all the time
I'm carrying a rifle at a range. A lot of the time is spent standing
at the line waiting for my turn to come during individual drills.
In such a case, a vertical grip puts the hand in a more neutral position
than an angled one, when the muzzle is pointed down. That's where
I've found a vertical grip with a forward angle actually works well
for both shooting and carrying a rifle, which is why you see all my
BCM vertical grips angled forward.

My experience with angled grips goes back to the Magpul
AFG, which didn't really catch on in popularity as much as vertical
grips. The other is the BCMGUNFIGHTER
KAG (Kinesthetic Angled Grip). The KAG has a reverse angle to
keep the hand in place without slipping off, and is both comfortable
and compact.

So, I installed the Halo HandStop on my rifle, which
I think could have been made easier by adding an access hole in the
bottom so that a ball-driver tip hex wrench isn't needed. A hole wouldn't
affect the function of the HandStop and also allow any hex key to
be used (in case I lost the ball driver one). The skeletonized design
of the Halo HandStop isn't as uncomfortable as I thought it would
be, but isn't as comfortable as I'd like it to be. So, it falls in-between.
This is due to the square profile of the HandStop, and the grooves.

While the corners of the HandStop are beveled, they
are still angular, and not as comfortable as a rounded profile would
be. I think that handstops and vertical grips should be treated just
like a pistol grip - they're always rounded for ergonomics and comfort.
The horizontal grooves also detract from the comfort, unless I'm wearing
gloves. Some might disagree with me, but I've always felt that traction
grooves on vertical grips should be vertical, not horizontal. If you
think about it, your hand seldom slips off the bottom of a vertical
grip. It's always slipping around it. Vertical grooves give you more
torsional control as well. When I brought this up to some plastic
grip manufacturers, they told me that they agreed, but the main reason
that they went with horizontal grooves was that it was harder to release
items with vertical grooves from a mold, especially if there were
grooves all the way around. When pulling back on the grip, I'd found
myself wanting a larger protrusion at the bottom front corner of the
HandStop to prevent my hand from slipping off; maybe one the same
size as the protrusion on their Halo
Series Foregrip.

What I did like about the Halo HandStop was that the
transition to the handguard was very low profile like the KAG, it's
a good-looking handstop (to me), and overall quality was very good.
Also, wearing gloves made it feel more comfortable, but I don't always
wear gloves when shooting.

If I were to suggest changes to the Halo HandStop, they
would be:

Add access hole in the bottom for allen wrench

Reduce the angle of the front and rear surfaces to 5°. It'd
also be nice to make it reversible in both KeyMod and MLOK configurations,
but not absolutely necessary.

Make it with a rounded profile; front and rear. Or radius the edges
instead of beveling them. Bevels still create sharp corners and angles.

Change the horizontal grooves to finer, vertical ones instead. Or
a knurl.

Increase size of protrusion at the bottom.

Coarser bead blast matte finish for traction.

Note that these suggestions are based purely on my own personal preferences
and usage. It's entirely possible that the Halo Handstop may work perfectly
for someone else. I was hoping that it felt as good as it looked, but
it did fall short in that department for me. The beauty of CNC'd products
is that it can be easier to make design changes than injection molded
plastic products, when you've already sunk a lot of money into a mold.
Tyrant Designs shows that they have the manufacturing know-how to produce
a quality product and are open to input, so I've high hopes that their
designs will evolve and improve over time.