What could it be?
New track pads from Porterfield!
Safety first...
Loosen the lugs...
Here is how I remove the retaining spring clip. Compress with clamp and then pull on it. It pops right out!
Compress the brake caliper piston. This makes caliper removal and installation easier. I use a socket as a spacer between the pad and clamp.
Removing the caliper bolt cover (upper shown)...
Loosen the upper and lower caliper bolts (upper pictured). Notice the green brake wear sensor wire. It just pulls out of the pad with your fingers. I try to grab it as close as I can to where it is clipped into the pad.
Pulling out the upper caliper bolt...
Pulling off the caliper...
Have something to rest the caliper on.
Pads removed. Looks a little corroded inside the piston!
The new rear pads!
They're only like this once... Notice the clip on the back of the pad that inserts in the the caliper piston.
Virgin... Not for long!
Reinstalling the caliper...
The new front pads...
Mighty!
That is a beefy pad...
The front pads install the same as the rears. The brake wear sensors are on the passenger rear and driver front pads only.

I Not Only Would Like To Replace The Brake Pads But Also The Rotors. The Problem Is I Tried The Rear Rotors First And The It Is Stuck On There And Will Not Come Off. I Struck The Rotor (with A Rubber Mallet After I Applied A Generous Amound Of Wd4) All Around And Also The Hub With No Luck.

Is There A Tool For This Process Or Do I Need To Heat It With A Torch? Are The Front Rotors Just As Difficult? Is There A Different Procedure For Those?

I Not Only Would Like To Replace The Brake Pads But Also The Rotors. The Problem Is I Tried The Rear Rotors First And The It Is Stuck On There And Will Not Come Off. I Struck The Rotor (with A Rubber Mallet After I Applied A Generous Amount Of Wd4) All Around And Also The Hub With No Luck.

Is There A Tool For This Process Or Do I Need To Heat It With A Torch? Are The Front Rotors Just As Difficult? Is There A Different Procedure For Those?

Help????

Did you have the emergency brake on? If so you'll never get the rear rotor off because the rear emergency brake is a drum type brake. Release the emergency brake and remove the two hold-down bolts and the rotor should come right off with a little persuasion.

Also, before you replace your rotors spray white lithium grease onto the hub and backside of the new rotor mounting holes. This should keep rust, dirt and other grime from creating an unbreakable seal. I did it on my 350Z, and never had another problem trying to remove rotors.

Resurrecting an old thread since I'm replacing my front and rear pads this weekend. I've replaced 'em on previous vehicles, but it's nice to see first hand pics. Great write up!

Normally I'd tie off the sensors too, but I plan to sell the car within the next couple years, so I'll keep everything proper for the next owner

On a side note - In terms of resale, how bad is it that I've done ALL of the maintenance on the vehicle myself and the car hasn't been to the dealership in 7+ years? I may have a receipt for oil here and there, otherwise no documents. I figure it's only worth $15k at this point, so I might as well hang onto her

Proof is in the pudding. Personally, I've spent a fair bit of money at the dealership on simple things. Once I realized how much, I started to do more maintenance myself, so I can appreciate the choice of DIYing all the work. Plus, occasionally dealerships do a shoddy job or take shortcuts because of time and cost constraints - I've been a victim of this several times, and getting them to fix their mistakes is an inconvenience. If you keep everything in working order and your car drives like it's been well-maintained, then you shouldn't have a problem when you go to sell it.

I just got my jack and jack stands. I heard the brakes start to grind the other day. Definitely going to try changing my brakes this winter. Maybe I'll do the stop tech upgrade kit with the steel cable lines, new pads and slotted rotors.