Patrick Miolane Puligny-Montrachet 2009

We’ve all heard of Puligny-Montrachet, but how did it become a household name?

Grand Cru Montrachet is widely regarded as yielding the world’s best Chardonnay. Kings have drunk them, poets have written about them, they last for decades and are revered the world over. Sadly there’s just not enough Montrachet to go around.

But just up the hill is the next best thing.

A few hundred years ago a canny mayor of the small town of Puligny observed the fame and fortune of his nextdoor neighbours and wanted a piece of the action. He applied to have his town’s name merged with that of Montrachet in an effort to draw attention to their own quality Chardonnay. The status and price of Puligny’s wines increased as a result and soon the mayor of Montrachet’s other neighbouring village, Chassagne, followed suit.

All three appellations, while sharing the very same slope, are quite different in the glass.

Sitting at the top of the slope, Puligny-Montrachet tends to be more refined, angular and precise, while further down the slope Chassagne-Montrachet is fuller and richer. Montrachet, sitting between the two, is a classic combination of both.

However 2009 was a sun-drenched vintage in Burgundy lending the grapes of Puligny a little more power and concentration than normal. Bring in the deft hand of Patrick Miolane’s daughter Barbara in the winery and there’s a restrained elegance to the wine thanks to a very delicate exposure to natural acidity.

This wine has everything you could ask for in a Chardonnay – rich apple tart, a delicate texture and a full lingering palate with an acidity that holds your attention.

So if you’ve moved away from big chunky Chardonnays towards a leaner, fresher style… but harbour a little nostalgia for something of substance, this wine will take you to new heights.

And with Burgundy guru Clive Coates having recently named Miolane as a producer to watch, their prices may soon climb those lofty slopes too.