A New Credo: Be Unusual, Land A Diner

April 26, 1985|By Edie Cohen.

The question of how to succeed in the restaurant business provides proprietors with plenty of food for thought. Some heed the advice of stripper Gypsy Rose Lee, who declared years ago that ``ya gotta have a gimmick.``

Offer diners something extra--be it novel entertainment or unusual ambiance--along with a distinguished bill of fare and the establishment is likely to be ingrained in their brains. And, this, owners say, can help make the crucial difference when eager eaters play the perpetual ``where shall we go?`` game.

Dozens of restaurateurs subscribe to this theory. But in the quest to stand out, pianists, singers, atriums and turn-of-the century charm have become prosaic. Still, amidst this cornucopia are five Chicago area eateries whose added attractions merit recognition. Someday they even may be labeled trendsetters.

Forget the notion that the United Nations is headquartered solely in New York City. For the last 13 years, a local chapter has convened at Miomir`s Serbian Club, 2255 W. Lawrence Ave. (784-2111). The international spirit is inspired by Miomir`s 11-piece Gypsy Violin Band, which performs the music of 16 different countries Friday and Saturday nights, featuring soloists singing in their native tongues. Sets may be comprised of a tango, fox trot and waltz, along with such favorites as ``Mademoiselle de Paris,`` ``Santa Lucia,``

Despite the cultural diversity, language barriers virtually are nonexistent. The convivial owner, Miomir Radovanobich, takes pride in the fact that he knows 90 percent of his customers and tablehops throughout the evening to make newcomers feel welcome and ensure that everyone participates in the revelry.

Those who aren`t on the dance floor can be seen twirling their napkins over their heads or clapping in unison with the ethnic tunes. This is plain old-fashioned fun, and Miomir`s attracts such a throng on weekends--from college students to family clubs--that reservations must be made several days in advance.

The Serbia-born Radovanobich, who eats regularly at other restaurants to evaluate the competition, believes that ``with good food, you need good atmosphere, too.`` His business originated in a small tavern on Evergreen Street, and in those days, only a violinist and pianist provided the music.

To get his clientele involved, Radovanobich passed out tambourines. ``I wanted my restaurant to have music. I like music so I made music for me and the American people like it,`` says the former journalist, who has expanded his 10-year-old space--which resembles an old chalet--five times to accommodate the burgeoning crowds.

``This is international music that has a big influence of Hungarian, French, Austrian and Serbian folk music. People come here for the atmosphere. They get food and a nightclub and cabaret for the same price with no cover and no minimum. They`re very happy.``

The great showman P.T. Barnum probably would have applauded the ingenuity of Norma Sayles. The proprietor of Long Grove`s Village Tavern, 135 Old McHenry Rd., Long Grove (634-3117) was among the first to place some form of merrymaking on her nightly menu and transformed her love for antiques into her headline act.

Sayles` version of ``Let`s Make a Deal,`` which she started more than 20 years ago, and her motto that ``everything in the place is for sale,`` has gleaned a crowd of habitues who relish bidding between mouthfuls of simple American cuisine. And the competition for the old and new treasures inspires friendly banter between diners and auctioneer Pat Dineen.

``My mom believes that you need something to draw customers in,`` says daughter Ginny Sayles. ``Once you get them there, you can keep them. She wanted to offer something extra special and out of the ordinary that people would enjoy that wasn`t offered anywhere else.``

So Sayles and her husband, Bill, filled the bar and dining room with many of her ``finds,`` such as captain`s chairs and round, oak tables with claw feet. Rookies usually gasp in amazement when they first see the vast array of hodge-podge in the dining room and bar area. ``My mother invented eclectic,`` Ginny says. ``This is a true reflection of my mother`s taste.``

Bargain hunters usually arrive early for the festivities. Half the fun of attending the Tuesday and Thursday sales is the anticipation of what the night might offer. All the collectibles, antiques and household items are placed on consignment and the merchandise changes regularly. Expect everything and anything, from pressed glass and coffee mugs to brass spitoons and stainless steel flatware. In the past, there have been several cars and even a mule on the auction block.