I've used several different oil varnishes over a seal coat of dewaxed shellac without any problems whatsoever. In fact, the only issue I've had with any varnish was over rosewood that had not first been been sealed with shellac. It simply wouldn't dry until I scraped it off, sealed with shellac, and reapplied.

Yup I think shellac is the universal sealer. I would guess that dewaxed, as you mentioned, is key though. I've been using an oil varnish for the past 3 years and always seal with shellac, so far so good.

The term 'varnish' is so loosely used it can lead to all kinds of problems. I'm not sure even calling it an 'oil' varnish helps. The best answer to all these kinds of questions is... make test panels. Of course sometimes these things don't appear as problems for some time.

Shellac is used as a sealer to reduce/control the amount of oil that is adsorbed. A wash coat of 1/2 lb cut will have a little effect. Remember Minwax stains are dilute linseed oil and pigment and a little dye.

I use a siamese red shellac that has some wax in it . Then finish with tru oil or cabinetmakers varnish or laquer. I am using med grade ca glue for finishing open pored woods before final finishing and after sealing with shellac, and experimenting with 2 part epoxy pore filler which I find dificult to master

I was taught this in the 70's by an old furniture repair guy. I have 40 year old furniture projects around the house with a couple of coats of padded de-waxed shellac, covered in everything from spar varnish (polishes beautifully), to alkyd varnish, to water based varnish, urethanes too, and have never had a failure.

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