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You already have "EMACS=t" in the environment, so you don't need an extra variable to do that.

If you want to temporarily get rid of that, setenv does a lot more than you need, including pushing your temp changes into setenv-history. Look at localizing the process-environment variable, and simply modifying it to a new value.
For example (slightly untested):

EMACS=t is apparently only when I start a shell. Must be a function of shell mode. (Time passes.) Oh, it's defined in comint-exec-1. There's a good example of manipulating a local process-environment there too! Bonus!