Ok so I decided to remove the mesh inside the air intake sensor. I believe it does slow down air to a point, and every little bit counts. So I first used a pair of pliers to rip it apart, and then I realized that I could of just slipped the mesh right off! It's only held on by two clips sort of. See pics below. So you don't have to destroy it like I did, you can keep it in case for some reason you want to slide it back on. You will see what I mean by the photos below.

The mesh is there for a reason and removing it is going to give you more potential problems than any possible benefit. Your MAF could have a hard time providing an accurate reading w/o it especially if you have an open intake.

well the C-900 people remove theirs a lot. you see, bosch put it there to smooth out the airflow over the hot wire. I don't even know if the GM 900 uses the same type of sensor, this mod may just end up doing bad things, doing nothing at all, or increasing HP by .02... never know!

Seriously though.. do you really think its blocking airflow that much? Its just a screen Rob.

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Took it for a test drive...Check Engine Light went on, engine just shut off...Not sure what to do...Ha just kidding...Test drive was fine...All systems go...If I run into any issues, I will be sure to let you guys know...

well actually the reason the c900's have that mesh is for when fools take out the AMM and just throw it to the side, basically to keep large chunks of crap outta there. i remember that some company (cant remember who, doesnt really matter) actually measured the pressure drop because of teh mesh and iirc there was a difference without it.

but... thats on a c900, and that mesh is more like what you see on a screen door, lots more mesh than what you have there. the real flow problem that your AMM has is that giant metering piece thats right in the middle of the airstream, but in reality even if you had a way to get rid of that (you cant, don't try ) you still probably wouldnt make any extra power.

airflow isnt your problem right now, its lack of boost .

Paul

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Well wouldn't I know right away if there was a problem? I took it up and down the street without any issues. Although it did seem to be hesitating when I floored it, but it's usually like that when the engine isn't warmed up...

I know I know. Well I've been talking with a few mechanics and saab power hungry individuals, and it seems like I can get to that number with some MAJOR cash. An egnine rebuild would be necessary, lighter cams, raise compression, looking into getting a stage 1 water injection system, better air flow, better exhaust flow, timing advance, and other things. Just trying to learn right now what will be the best to get to this goal of 225. And people can argue that it's not possible, but I believe anything is possible if you put your mind to it....So I can't spit out all the exact details now because I am not sure of them, learning as I go...

Just trying to learn right now what will be the best to get to this goal of 225. And people can argue that it's not possible

I mean you could pull it, maybe... the main problem is going to be the fact that just about any turbo model 900 would STILL be faster just because it has the torque at all RPM ranges while the n/a won't

Basically it would be a hell of a lot easier and cheaper to buy and mod a 900-SE than it would be to get an na/automatic car up to 225 HP. I mean it's the slowest car since the 1988 900-base / automatic

Yes but the N/A already comes with many parts on it that are built for power, the intake manifold, cams and many others, it's got parts already that are key for tuning...I just don't want to work with a turbo, period...I want to see what I can do with an N/A Saab. Since the fastest N/A Saab I knew had an estimated 227HP or so, meatball, who just recently totalled his car...I don't know of any others out there that are tuning an N/A Saab, so it will be a fun project....Nothing that I would get done this summer, but it's a project...