The result of this study is on textile expressed in the costume of the Kazakh tribe, Kirgiz tribe, Tajik tribe. Basically the material of costume is fur, cotton flannel, felt, silk, cotton outwear, velvet cloth and beads, silver, earing, bracelet is used frequently. The tribes did embroider on the shoes, made of sheepskin or calfskin and collar, belt, button, pocket with the sketch of national trait. Eventually their cultures of costume seem to be very similar because of the resemblances in circumstance of nature, religion, custom of life but definitely they show conservatism in itself and independent culture. In the basic structure of traditional costume by races, there is no big difference. Then, in men, the trousers and the shirts of tunic type become the basic with the style which is convenient to act. And, to wear vest, or jacket, or chaban, over it makes a little difference. In women also, same structure shows with the form to wear vest or outwear, on the basis of one piece. But, in a small hat, head wear, color contrast, and decoration element etc., strict difference is showing. After all, they show very similar clothing life culture basically in natural environment, religion, and life habit etc., But, the discrimination is made in the detailed side. So, it can be said that they show the conservative nature of nationalities, and have preserved the unique identity of their own culture.

The dress and ornaments in the Taijiang were fashionable, which were densely populated with Miao nationality. Women's traditional festive dress in Taijiang included an embroidered blouse and a pleated skirt. The garments are decorated with plenty of ornamental designs. The colours of festive dress were as rich and gorgeous as those of fashinable desses. Embroidery was very popular in Taijiang and its principal feature is embroidery with loose, coloured floss silk. The image of patterns changed ingeniously and colourfully but do harmony. In the using of colour, one kind of the festive dress was in the main red, which means a bright dress. The colour of another kind of festive dress was blue, which means a dark dress. There were many kinds of silver ornaments for women. Taijiang was most outstanding in this respect. The great variety of silver ornaments was a unique feature of women's dress in Taijiang.

It is said that the highlights of Naadam festival, the biggest festival of the year in Mongolia, are three athletic contests: wrestling, horse racing, and archery, where contestants display their courage, strength, dexterity, and marksmanship. This paper explores the characteristics of the uniforms worn in such athletic events The findings are as follows. First, wrestlers' costume is completely unique in that it consists of shuudag, snug shorts, zodog, a jacket with sleeves but with no front, a traditional hat, and gutul, traditional boots. The main material used in the costume is several pieces of embroidered red or blue silk. Second, horse riders, usually young children lighter than the adults in weight, wear a bright, colorful, and comfortable uniform of a simple jacket and a pants. Third, archers' mostly put on their traditional costume, deel and hats. The hats are of two kinds: the traditional ones or the European-style ones for men, which were introduced around 1930s.

The fashion designers in Korea can achieve the winning position in the competitive international market of fashion industry by adapting our own traditional beauty to the modem fashion design through the modernization of the Korean traditional styles. Therefore, this study attempted to analyze the works of the active Korean fashion designer, Lee Young-Hee, focusing on the subject how she incorporated the modem fashion with the elements of Korean traditional costume. In order to study this subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and analyse the design elements of Korean costume used in the designer's works found from the major fashion magazines, FASHION TODAY, WWD, ELLE, BAZAAR, Marie Claire, Areumdown-Uri-Ot, The Beauty of Korea and FASHION SHOW from 1993 to 1999. The collected research data, 95 works, was counted and analyzed in terms of the formal characteristics borrowed from Korean traditional clothing items and their application techniques. Other aesthetic characteristics of her works such as color, fabric and pattern were also analyzed. As a result of the study, it was found that Lee Young-Hee has adapted many different kinds of major Korean clothing items including 'chima', 'paji', 'po', and 'chogori'. Also it was apparent to note that the formal characteristics of Korean traditional clothing items were successfully incorporated into her fashion design works expressing the beauty of oriental grace, naturalism, sophistication, and above all, the modem sense.

The purpose of this study is to suggest the standard size system of Saenghwal Hanbok for design development and popularization. As a sample, 20's and 40's female data among the 1997's National Somatometry Survey data were used because two groups have different somatic characteristics and design tastes with each other. The results are as follows; From t-test of 35 somatometric items in 20's and 40's female data, we knew that the differentiated size system proper to each age is needed. We also knew that the 38 Saenghwal Hanbok brands don't have consistent size system from investigation of size list and size application. From consideration on the number of size for production and coverage rate, we suggested regression formula by bust circumference and stature, and suggested advanced standard size system which are proper to each 20' and 40' female group.

The purpose of this study was to segment the clothing customers of new traditional market according to shopping orientation and to clarify the different clothing behaviors among segmented groups. This study may be useful for new traditional marketer to make proper marketing strategies. The subjects for the final analysis were 400 customers who visited Namdaemoon and Dongdaemoon new traditional markets. The statistics used for analysis were factor analysis, cluster analysis, Cronbach-, one-way ANOVA, LSD multiple range test and chi-square by the SPSS program. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The customers of new traditional market were segmented to 5 groups (Diffidence Group, Confidence/Information Group, Active Group, Shop/Brand Loyalty Group and Planned Purchasing Group); 2. The five segmented groups were significantly different in clothing evaluation standards, shop evaluation standards, satisfaction and demographic variables such as sex, age, education and monthly spending money.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship of use of clothing advertisements in magazines as an information source to clothing involvement. Questionnaires were administered to 131 women living in Sangju City during April of 2000. Data were analyzed by using factor analysis, t-test, ANOVA and Scheffe test. Attitude toward clothing advertisements in magazines was factor analyzed resulting three factors such as quality information & degree of use, fashion & brand information, and communication. Clothing advertisement was not considered as a useful information source and was not understood the message of advertisement clearly. There were significant differences between high involvement group and low involvement group in attitude toward clothing advertisements as information sources. High involvement group considered clothing advertisements as information sources more positively and used advertisements to search information about fashion and product quality. Also, significant differences were shown according to marriage state, age, and education level.

The dyeing powder drawn out from Cinnamoum cassia by water was concentrated. Using this powder, the silk fabrics were dyed and they measured with the K/S value, surface color, dye fastness and antimicrobial properties. The colorant of Cinnamoum cassia was proved flavonoids by FT-IR spectrum. The K/S values of silk by mordants concentration were much higher than those of high-concentration, the color yield of the silk fabrics were most efficient the premordanting method. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark except AI-mordant. The chroma produced clear for the unmordanting, the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. In the case of the light fastness, Cu-mordants improved more than 1-2 level. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity on the silk fabric.

In order to overcome the disadvantage of the conventional two bath dyeing method of wool/cotton blends, it had prompted significant effort to the development of the one bath dyeing method which can accomplish savings in energy, water usage and time. To improve the dyeability of cotton toward direct dyes in a non-electrolytic and acidic dyebath, cotton component was pretreated with cationizing agent containing chlorohydrine group in aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide. This study was carried out to investigate almost equal color strength between wool component and cationized cotton component when wool/cationized cotton blends was dyed with acid dye/direct dye by the one bath two step method in a non-electrolytic and acidic dyebath.

This study investigated the effect of aftertreatments such as using the softener or starch on the mechanical properties of knitted fabrics. The mechanical properties of fabrics, hand value(HV) and total hand value(THV) were measured and calculated by the KES-F system. The main results are as follows: The values of tensile energy(WT), coefficient of friction(MIU) and geometrical roughness(SMD) were increased by softener but decreased by starch treatment. However, the values of tensile linearity(LT), bending(B, 2HB), thickness(T) and weight(W) were increased by starch but decreased by softener treatment. Tensile resilience(RT) was increased not only by softener but also by starch treatment. It showed that the levels of FUKURAMI, NUMERI and SOFUTOSA were increased by the treatment of softener and the levels of KOSHI and SHARI were increased by the treatment of starch. Total hand value(THV) was lower in fabric with starch treatment than fabric with none treatment.