preparation

Rinse eggplant under cold water and dry well, pressing out any excess moisture.

Stir together mirin, soy sauce, ginger, and seven-spice powder.

Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then sauté eggplant until browned, about 8 minutes. Stir in mirin mixture and cook, gently stirring and turning frequently, until sauce becomes a glaze and eggplant is browned and tender, about 1 minute.

Serve hot or at room temperature, sprinkled with chives.

Cooks' notes:
 Eggplant can be sliced, salted, rinsed, and pressed 1 day ahead. Chill, covered.
 Eggplant, without chives, can be made 2 hours ahead and kept at room temperature.