First Taste: Another La Cocina success story, Besharam serves the flavors of India with a Cali twist

When our hangovers hit, we all have our go-to Indian spot at our fingertips for delivery.

But we're here to tell you that there's a new Indian joint in town that's modern, hip, and creative—a restaurant ready to turn your head and change the way you've been thinking about Indian cuisine.

Now open at Minnesota Street Project in Dogpatch, Besharam is the latest hot spot to come from Daniel Patterson's recent enterprise into restaurant partnerships with global flavors—think Jamaican flavors at SF's Kaya and Oakland's new Palestinian foodie spot Dyafa—and is the brick-and-mortar manifestation of the dreams of its founder and chef, 50-year-old Heena Patel.

There's really nothing we can say about Besharam without first filling you in on a bit of Patel's story. An immigrant from Gujarat, India, she learned from a young age that food—freshly harvested food—is something to celebrate. But as a lifelong vegetarian (which is the tradition in India), her first professional culinary job—managing the meaty Hofbrau restaurant—was hardly a fit; nevertheless, she mastered the reuben sandwich, which she still credits for helping her earn her American citizenship. But then, like so many female food entrepreneurs from minority communities here in the Bay Area (including Dyafa chef/partner Reem Assil), Patel found support in La Cocina's incubator program, which helped her, along with her husband, Paresh, open Rasoi back in 2016; the stand at the Ferry Building Farmer's Market, and later at Off the Grid, became beloved for its cheesy garlic naan and "Bollywood biryani."

In other words, Besharam has been a long time coming. And that it's housed in the former prime location of Alta CA and counts celebrity toque Patterson as partner merits the #winning. Inside it's a celebration of Indian cuisine and Bollywood culture with poppy art and a deep menu bursting with the flavors of Gujarat, but with just a hint of tropical essence and a Californian twist, of course.

At lunch, snack on tapioca fritters with dates and turmeric sauce; charred broccoli and quinoa with cilantro chutney; and hearty bowls of vegetable curry topped with a fried egg and served with toasted buns. At dinner, bring the crew for shareable plates of blue cheese naan with wasabi raita; plump edamame dumplings in a spicy lentil stew; and paratha tacos with strawberry mint chutney. There are also pleasant desserts (mango ice cream with cashew, dried apricot, and ginger brittle), and an extensive wine list.

Oh, the name Besharam is Urdu for "shameless"—and this restaurant no problem demanding your attention.

(Sarah Chorey)

Besharam is currently open for lunch and dinner, with brunch and an evening tasting menu coming soon.