Chiang Mai Travel Information

Introduction

Chiang
Mai presents a wonderful contrast to Bangkok. It is Thailand's second
largest city, though only one fourth the size of the capital and quite
unlike it in most other respects. Of great antiquity and moulded by a
distinct history, Chiang Mai is a most attractive destination with sights
and charms peculiar to itself and the picturesque Northern region of which
it is the centre. Located 700 kilometres north of Bangkok, Chiang Mai
is less than an hour from the capital by plane and is served by several
daily flights. It can also be reached conveniently by air-conditioned
overnight train or coach. Although readily accessible, the city popularly
known as the "Rose of the North" presents a superb contrast. Whereas
Bangkok is a mere 200 years old, Chiang Mai was founded in the late 13th
century and is one of the oldest continually inhabited settlements in
Thailand. It was once the capital of Lanna, an independent Thai kingdom,
and has preserved its unique cultural heritage to a marked degree. Accordingly
it is a veritable treasure house of the arts and architecture unique to
the region.
Within the city's original perimeter, still marked by moat and fortified
gates, are numerous ancient Buddhist temples and other monuments attesting
to a distinguished past. Close by are more magnificent attractions, including
Wat Prathat Doi Suthep, and Phuping Palace, the summer residence of the
Royal Family.

Chiang Mai is further characterized by being one of the world's largest
centres of cottage industries . Numerous handicrafts are traditional
to the region and craftsmen, using skills passed down from generation
to generation, continue to produce marvels like silverware, , lacquerware,
celadon pottery, silk and cotton, hand-painted paper umbrellas and more.

Here is a true shopper's
paradise and there is plenty of scope for browsing for unusual gifts
and souvenirs. But buying is not all, and just as thrilling are visits
to workshops, even whole villages devoted to handicrafts, like Bo Sang,
to see the crafts in the making.

The region is, however, most strongly coloured by the various hilltribes
who make their homes in the highlands. Comprising seven major tribes--Meo,
Karen, Yao, Lisu, Lawa, Lahu and Akha, each with its own distinct culture,
religion, language and colorful style of dress--these people maintain
independent lifestyles . They are nonetheless hospitable and welcome
visitors to their villages where their singular cultures are mostly
untouched by the 20th century.

Chiang Mai is the ideal
base for excursions to these varied sights and attractions, as well
as a destination in its own right. The city has expanded considerably
in recent years, though new building has not obliterated views of centuries
old temples and there is little of the frenetic air that typifies life
in Bangkok. The 'Rose of the North' remains a relaxing place, with its
hospitable and easy going people who still hold to traditional ways
and values.

They
originated from Tibet migrated through Burma and crossed over into Northern
Thailand during World War II . Animalistic rather than Buddhist they
make sacrifices of cockerels as part of their religious practise.

Witch doctors heel their sick and believe
that the body has 12 souls. When a part of the body is injured that
sole has left the body. To encourage it to return they sacrifice a cockerel
cut off the head, throwing it into the air to open the spirit world
allowing for the soul to return. The witch doctor will construct a spirit
compass from bamboo paper and string and split linked with split bamboo
which forms the spirit bridge.

Access to the sacrifice altars which
are on the highest point adjacent to the village are only accessible
to male members of the community.

Fortune
telling is not done by reading palms or cards rather with the sacrifice
of a cockerel, which is then cocked and eaten except for the legs. Wooden
picks are put into the flesh of the legs as they pray to their god asking
the questions for which they want answers. For example, if they want
to know whether a couple should marry or not when the leg bones are
brought together and they are parallel the sign is they will be together
for a long time. However if they are pointing in opposite directions
the indications are that they would soon part and should not marry.

The method for a funeral will depend
on the nature of the death. If it is what they call a good
death by natural causes then the body should be buried. The Lisu do
not have cemeteries rather they return their dead -to the land burying
them in a good site in the family field, Originally this was decided
by throwing an egg into the air if it cracked on landing it was not
where the body. should be buried. However, if it remained unbroken it's
body should rest.

A bad
death was one by accident or decease and housed a bad spirit. In such
circumstances the body cannot be returned to the land as the spirit
would be passed onto future generations and should be cremated.

A Lisu house has a slopping roof that
nearly reaches the floor. It is divided into two rooms one for sleeping
and one for cooking. Their belief doesn't require every house and plot
of land to have a spirit house as elsewhere in the rest of Buddhist
Thailand.

There
is, of course, modern development and today Chiang Mai offers the visitor
an excellent range of facilities. Hotels, from deluxe properties with
standards comparable to those of Bangkok to inexpensive but comfortable
guest houses, provide accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets.

Restaurants, specializing
in various national cuisines as well as the typical spicy northern delicacies,
are plentiful. The best way to sample the local fare is to try a Khantok
dinner, a Chiang Mai tradition, which features a variety of local dishes
served with sticky rice, the favorite staple in northern cuisine. Typically
the meal is accompanied by performances of traditional northern music
and folk dances.

Chiang Mai further offers
various places of evening entertainment and while these are not as numerous
as in Bangkok, they are sufficient to ensure variety. For shopping there
is the famed Night Bazaar as well as a host of other shops affording
the bargain-hunter enormous scope.

Golden
Triangle

Chiang Mai is wonderfully rewarding in its kaleidoscopic attractions
and extensive facilities, but it by no means exhausts travel possibilities
in the region. To the north, just a short hop by plane or about three
hours by road, lies Chiang Rai and the "Golden Triangle", that spell
binding spot where the borders of Thailand, Burma and Laos meet.

Jungle tours are an
established option in the North and the local TAT office provides a
list of specialist travel companies. Trips can last from one day to
one week, and each group is accompanied by an experienced guide.

For those with little
time a splendid way of experiencing the jungle scenery is to take the
regular long-tail boat which plies the Kok River between Tha Thon (due
north of Chiang Mai) to Chiang Rai. The journey of just a few hours
is a memorable experience. The same trip can he covered more leisurely
by raft, stopping at hilltribe villages along the way.

Ban Thawai Wood Carving
Fair
Demonstrations, contests and sales of wood carvings and local handicraft.
The Chiang Mai celebration Jan 29-Feb 4 includes local folk performances
and a procession highlighting the popular range of Northern Thai wood
crafts.

Chiang Mai Flower
Festival
Feb 5-7 with the main procession on Feb 6. The route from the Governor's
house to Suan Buak Haad will be lined with tens of thousands of flowers
and plants. Beautiful Lanna ladies will be perched on floats competing
with each other in both the beauty of the flowers and the girls. Flower
show, horticultural competition and fair selling a wide variety of plants.

Teen Jok Fair
Feb 6-8 Amphoe Mae Jam.
On Feb 6 boat races as well as a large drum competition will open the
fair at around 4pm. There'll be an exhibition of antique teen jok materials,
hand woven by local guilds of women, plus over 3,000 pieces of teen
jok on sale. Demonstrations of weaving and competitions by local villagers
added to the enjoyment. Call : ( 66-53-485052 ).

Lanna Arts & Culture
Festival
Apr 2-6, The compound of Chiang Mai University features demonstrations
and exhibitions of local handicrafts, Lanna ancient ceremonies and cultures
while the Arts and Culture Hall of the city displays paintings and art
works by mostly local artists. Late afternoon to evening, live music
and a Lanna long drum competition are held at the Three King Monument.
Also, special tours around the city by bikes and boats all day long.
Call: ( 66-53-248 604, 248 607, 252 743 ).

Mai Kham Bho Procession
Festival
Apr 13-15 Amphoe Chom Thong, Chiang Mai. Before the Buddha image, the
Bo tree was the original icon of Buddhism, and each year in Chom Thong,
Chiang Mai, the Mai Kham Bho (literally wooden supports for trees in
temple courtyards) are employed in meritorious acts designed to bring
participants long and happy lives. They are prepared on Apr 13-14, accompanied
by cultural performances and then carried in procession to the temples
on Apr 15.
Contact TAT : ( 66-53-248 604, 248 607, 241 466 ).

Sao Intakin Ceremony
May 18, Chiang Mai, Soa Lak Meuang or the guardian deity post of the
city is situated within the compound of Wat Chedi Luang. The ceremony
will be held around the post to assure that the annual monsoon will
arrive on time.
Call TAT Northern Office: Region 1 ( 66-53-248 604, 248 607, 241 466
).

Phra That Hariphunchai
Bathing Ceremony
May-Jun Lamphun, Wat Phrathat Hariphunchai, one of the grandest and
the most important temples of the North, is said to be built by a King
of Hariphunchai kingdom hundreds years ago, to enshrine a hair of the
Buddha. During this period of the year, after the Thai traditional New
Year festival, Buddhists in Lamphun and neigbouring provinces come to
the temple to attend the bathing rite for old chedis in the temple and
receive blessing for the new year.
Call TAT Northern Office: Region 1 ( 66-53-248 604, 248 607, 241 466
).

May, 16-17, Amphur Mae
Jai, Payao, a local lychee fair will be held to celebrate the return
of the lychee crops. Local handicraft and goods will also be for sal
all day,
Contact TAT : ( 66-53-71 7433 ).

13 May, Chiang Mai agricultural
day and the blessing of crops. There will be an exhibition, demonstration
as well as sales of local agricultural products. Plants and fish will
be given free to local farmers as well asinterested parties. Call :
( 66-53-219 291 ).

11-17 May, Inthakin City
Pillar Ceremony at the city four corners, five gates and Three Kings
Monument. Merit making, blessing of the Buddha statues and remembrance
of history will be held all day for a week.
For further details call : ( 66-53-219 291).

The
temple of Doi Southep is one of Chiang Mai's most visited landmarks
that were until a couple of years ago, when tragedy struck. The cable
pulling the small funicular train up the hill from the road to the temple
and controlled its descent snapped sending it crashing down the hill
resulting in many injuries.

Many that wish to pray at the temple
are too old and infirm to climb the steps. Therefore at a cost of Baht
7.9 million, a totally safe system have been installed In effect it
is an OTIS lift cabin that is pulled up and lowered down diagonally
rather than vertically as in a tall building. It has a maximum capacity
of 20 people and travels at 3.6km/h slightly slower than walking speed.
Fully electronically controlled with a backup safety system in the event
of the main one failing. The service
is available daily from 8am-4pm and roundtrip costs Baht 40 half of
that is used to repay the capital investment.

A
week's stay in Chiang Mai would not exhaust the area's scenic, cultural
and shopping attractions. Just to cover the city and its immediate environs,
it is best to allow three days--say, one day city sightseeing, one day
exploring the surrounding countryside, half-day excursion to Doi Suthep
and a half-day shopping.

To experience the North
more fully excursions are recommended to Mae Hong Son and Chiang Rai.
Both are destinations in their own right, and it is best to allow a
couple of days for each. Mae Hong Son can be reached from Chiang Mai
by air or by road, the latter journey takes a full day in each direction.
There are also air and road connections to Chiang Rai, though a more
adventurous approach is by road to Tha Thon and then by boat down the
Kok river (a full-day trip).

Travel
by road either to or from Bangkok is perhaps the best way to include
Sukhothai on a Northern itinerary. While it is possible to make the
trip in one long day, an overnight stop at Sukhothai or Tak is recommended.

If coming from Bangkok,
you could continue on by road from Sukhothai to Nan for another overnight
stop, and finally on to Chiang Mai via Phrae and Lampang.

What surprised me about driving in Northern
Thailand were the traffic-free roads. I have a strong memory of being
at the bottom of a steep mountainous road, selecting the low ratio gear
and my Mondeo climbing the track with the athleticism of a thorough
bred. Mile after mile up hill and down hill, passing fascinating terraced
agriculture with the freedom to stop and visit as I wished.

The
roads are well made and there are sufficient road signs in English.
On the rare occasion that I was uncertain of what direction to take,
locals offered friendly assistance with a warm smile using little more
than sign language and the name of where I was going. Having a car was
the key to the pleasure of travelling around in northern Thailand.

On leaving the baggage hall at Chiang
Mai International Airport, there was a representative of Budget waiting
for me. He took me the short distance to their office to collect my
car. The documents I needed were a valid driving licence and a passport
to prove that I was over 21. Budget World Class Drive offers a selection
of well documented routes to explore with maps and key points of interest.
In addition to local maps, the office provided me with the book "Exploring
Chiang Mai, City, Valley & Mountains" by Oliver Hargreaves, containing
a wealth of knowledge about discovering the region.

Budget were able to offer a selection
of six car types ranging from a 1.3 litre Honda City up to a 4.0 litre
Jeep Cherokee 4WD. I opted for the Ford Mondeo sedan as it offered a
comfortable ride for the journeys I had planned. Even in downtown Chiang
Mai there is low density traffic.

As I wanted to get out and explore the
surrounding area I chose a hotel in Mae Rim Valley and was lucky to
be staying at The Regent Resort Chiang Mai, Mae Rim-Samoeng Road, Tel
(66 53) 2989181, Fax (66 53) 298189. It has sixteen clusters of two-storey
buildings, each with four pavilion suites focussed around a central
paddy field. The suites in Lanna style are lavishly furnished, offering
luxurious living space. An ideal base for a driving adventure, enjoying
the cool mountain air on the terrace at breakfast and after a day exploring
to be able to return to a relaxing massage in the spa.

On the first afternoon I explored the
Mae Sa- Samoeng loop. Turning left out of the hotel on Route 1096, it
as just a short ride to the upland Mae Sa Valley 700 metres above sea
level. I passed several orchid farms, the Mae Sa Falls, the Queen Sirikit
Botanical Garden (Thailand’s first botanical garden, built and developed
with advice from Kew Gardens in London) and the Elephant Camp. The road
continues along Samoeng valley with spectacular views to the west. The
complete loop is just under 100 kms and takes about three hours allowing
for stops along the way.

The next day I was up early and out on
the road before eight o’clock. I headed for Route 107 in the direction
of Fang and onto Thaton to check out raft trekking on the Mae Kok River
to Chiang Rai. I passed through several police road blocks checking
for drugs and guns. Being a foreign tourist in most cases they waved
me on. Under Thai law, drivers are required to carry their passports
and driving licence and produce them when required.

After
lunch, with Mae Sai as my target destination, I continued the climb
passing through Yuannese Chinese villages and onto Mae Salong, the former
HQ of opium warlord Khun Sa. Continuing on Route 1130 joining the Chiang
Rai-Mae Sai highway north of Mae Chan. From there it was a clear run
up to the Myanmar border at Takhilek.

Vehicles hired are not permitted outside
the Kingdom of Thailand. To take the car into Myanmar, it would void
the insurance cover. It is possible to obtain a day pass to visit Myanmar
as a foot passenger for US$ 5 on production of a valid passport.

It is recommended to fill the car with
petrol at one of the large drive-in petrol stations before Mae Chang.
From there until Thaton, there are the local hand pumps and filling
could take some time. All of Budget’s vehicles use 95 unleaded fuel
at 11.29 baht a litre (17p), far less expensive than in the UK.

For rental of more than 3 days, Budget
operate a "Rent Here-Leave There" service and it would have been possible
to leave the car at Chiang Rai Airport rather than returning to Chiang
Mai.

The round trip journey from Chiang Mai
to Mae Sai is some 600 kms and it is recommended to spread it over at
least 3 days.

Thailand Travel e-zine would like to
stress as strongly as possible the importance of having valid insurance
when driving in the Kingdom as provided by International Car Rental
Companies. The consequences of being involved in a serious or fatal
accident without cover could be serious.