Friday, March 25, 2011

So Who Makes Costco's Kirkland Signature Bourbon?

Costco, the large American members-only shopping club, carries house brands of hundreds of items ranging from paper towels to medicines. Add to that vodka, tequila, Scotch whisky and, now, bourbon. These spirits are made by other firms and bottled for Costco under its Kirkland label. I hadn't seen the bourbon until a few days ago when my local store put out a pallet of $19.99 liter bottles. Naturally, I grabbed one. This is a good deal for a good bourbon.

Regrettably, it wasn't a good deal.

The Kirkland Signature Premium Small Batch Bourbon is aged 7 years and comes in at 103 proof (51.5% abv). Disregard "Premium" and "Small Batch" as marketing terms; they don't mean anything definable. It still sounds promising, no? I thought so. We tried it straight. We tried it with a splash of water, with ice, in a Manhattan. It's not the worst liquor I've ever had, but it may just be the worst bourbon I've ever purchased. I was so disappointed.

Three grown men, whiskey drinkers all, could stomach no more than a total of about 6 ounces of the stuff. At first sip, I glanced sideways at one of my cohorts only to find him doing the same to me, each of our faces frozen in disgust. The third wasn't so subtle: he actually reared his head back, grimaced, and pushed the glass away.

This was a bad bourbon. Harsh, acrid, hard to get down. But there were familiar notes to it, some that hinted at the decent drink it could have been. Although there's no indication on the label of who made it other than a reference to Clear Spring Distilling, I suspected I knew who was actually behind it. Paul Clarke, one of the editors of Imbibe, put me on to the answer — and the familiar notes made immediate sense.

According to the US Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (the TTB), Costco's bourbon is made by Jim Beam (see the TTB certificate of label approval here). What a shame. I actually enjoy some Beam products. The regular Jim Beam, for instance, I buy by the handle as a general mixing bourbon. There's always some around the house. And, of course, I like the Red Stag — again, as a mixing whiskey — even though most flavored whiskeys are a turn off.

But the Kirkland brand bourbon? Try it if you want; maybe you'll like it. Me? Costco has a good returns policy. I'm thinking about bringing the mostly full bottle back.

Goes well with:

Beam's Red Stag. I Confess, I...I Kinda Like It. Don't mistake the above disappointment for disliking Beam. I don't. In fact, the 1.75 liter handles at Costco, while not examples of the best whiskey in the world, are a solid deal for $19.99. When Booker's or Stagg comes down to those prices, I'll gladly wallow in them. Until then, there's JB.

In addition to his gig at Imbibe, Paul Clarke writes, among other places, at The Cocktail Chronicles. He's worth a read.

114 comments:

Yeah, Clear Spring is one of those paint strip on the floor distilleries ( as I call them) that Jim Beam has used in the past for bottles they want to obscure from the general public.If it wasn't good enough for Jim Beam to take credit for it, it must have been a bit grim.

I always assumed Costco liquor would be packaged by the dozen and bottled in milk jugs. But this stuff, with its pretty bottle, 7-year age statement and high proof, looks the part of decent bourbon. It's a shame that it doesn't deliver.

Couldn't disagree with Mr. Rowley and his three experts more. This is Knob Creek small batch bourbon which is produced by Jim Beam. My bourbon of choice is Knob Creek and has been for many, many years. I purchased this new Costco product and did a double blind test at my home with Knob Creek. I nor the other bourbon drinkers, "experts" link Mr. Rowley's could not tell the two appart. So, either he and his friends do not like Knob Creek, a well established, and widely liked bourbon, or they have an ax to grind with Costco. Buy this bourbon and you will not be disappointed. It costs much less than Knob Creek and is 1.5 proof stronger.

I couldn't disagree with Mr. Rowley and his three experts more. This is undoubtedly Knob Creek, a premium small batch bourbon, which is produced by Jim Beam. My bourbon of choice is Knob Creek and has been for many, many years. I purchased this new Costco product and did a double blind test at my home with Knob Creek. I, nor the other bourbon drinkers, "experts" like Mr. Rowley's, could not tell the two apart. So, either he and his friends do not like Knob Creek, a well established, and widely liked bourbon, or they have an ax to grind with Costco. Buy this bourbon and you will not be disappointed. It costs much less than Knob Creek and is 1.5 proof stronger. Incidentally, I have purchased the 1.75 ltr Knob Creek from Costco on past occasions when they have it. It sells out within days. I'm sure this is why they made arrangements to purchase it and rebrand it as Kirkland. Enjoy.

Thanks everyone for your comments. I've been traveling since last week and am just now getting caught up on correspondence. I’m always happy to read comments, even when we may disagree. I don’t have an axe to grind with Costco — or Beam, for that matter. In fact, I’m a regular customer of both. And I am, with very few exceptions, pleased with the quality of the Kirkland-branded private label goods. This whiskey just happens to be one of those exceptions.

In writing about this one bottling, I don’t mean to discuss any other Beam product: just this one. As I wrote about this bourbon, I’d say try it if you want; maybe you'll like it. I don’t. Though you’d never find either in my house, people do, after all, enjoy watching Kardashian TV shows and reading C.S. Lewis books. That doesn’t mean there’s not a place for them.

Let us assume this is slightly higher-proof Knob Creek (KC in whiskey geek lingo), as others have before now. I admit that I don’t care for Knob Creek. It is a widely acclaimed, award-winning bourbon with legions of fans, none of whom happened to be here last week. I don’t pretend that any of them are experts — just, as I wrote, whiskey drinkers. And as whiskey drinkers, none of us wanted to finish what was in our glasses, regardless of other labels under which that spirit may appear.

If your tastes are like mine, you’ll want to pour this down the drain (as I did). If they resonate with Anonymous’ tastes, you may well cherish it.

By all means, drink Kirkland Signature Premium Small Batch Bourbon if that’s what you like — or if you just feel like taking a chance on an unknown whiskey. Shoot, I’d argue that one should always be willing to try new spirits. Rather than return it, I may hang on to the bottle after all to prank my friends.

I must agree with Mr. Anonymous...I like it. A lot. I am a 'bourbon guy' but do not consider myself to have a sophisticated palette. However, the smell, finish, etc has been very good thus far. I am having it on the rocks, which is my personal preference. I too was thinking this was some sort of Knob Creek experiment, and am not at all disappointed with the results. Especially considering I expected a bigger bite with the higher proof and price. I will be buying this again. As for the writer, thanks for submitting this...I am guessing you might have grabbed a bad bottle or something...kind of like a bad cigar. Try another and see what you think...the $20 is a price that minimizes the risk.

I have tried the Kirkland Bourbon, and enjoyed it. The speculation that I've read elsewhere online is that, rather than being a higher proof Knob Creek, the Kirkland could be a lower proof Baker's Bourbon. Not having any familiarity with Baker's, I can't say. Any Baker's drinkers out ther who can offer their opinions?

I don;'t want to get into a war here but the above comment about this being Knob Creek "This is Knob Creek small batch bourbon" is absolutely false.

First, it's 103 proof bourbon and Knob Creek is not. Secondly, I've been drinking Knob Creek for ten years and this isn't even close.

To be fair, I wondered myself as I poured it into my glass because it has the same look. One pull into my nose told me differently, and one sip told me a lot more. It's not awful, but it's not great and it's NOT Knob Creek.

Having said what I just wrote, I'd love to know what this stuff really is! I will say that at 103 proof it is very smooth. What's missing, and where I was disappointed, was the lack of character and complexity.

So let me tone down what I wrote about it being false about this being Knob Creek. I don't know that. I guess what I mean is I can't imagine that it is.

Jennifer and Charlie ~ y'all are a regular Nick and Nora. I like the repartee.

As for getting into a war, that's not necessary at all. Regardless of where our tastes lie, I think that we can all agree that we like whiskey, even if we may not like particular whiskeys, and appreciate well-made examples.

As for what this particular bourbon is, I admit I don't know, either. Hence my bet-hedging comment about "regardless of other labels under which that spirit may appear."

I'd like to hear from someone at JB chime in about the whiskey (though perhaps with anonymous comments, that's already happened) and tell us a little more about its familial connections to others in the portfolio. As I said, I like some Beam products (and some I like very much), but this one was hitting all the wrong buttons.

And Weej ~ Although we've been drinking down the liquor cabinets for more than a year, we're still at around 300 in the house. Bourbons I do like? It's by no means an exclusive list, but at different settings and for different reasons, I enjoy current bottlings of Bulleit, Maker's, Booker's, Ancient Ancient Age 10 Star, Buffalo Trace, George T. Stagg, all the Van Winkle line, Four Roses, several of the Willetts, and, though it's been a while since my lips touched a drop, I recall Peach Street out of Colorado has an enjoyable bourbon [I will further admit it was not my first drink of the evening and the excellent company may have affected my perception of it: I'll track down another bottle (#301) immediately to verify.]

Im a whiskey/bourbon drinker, all the same to me in terms of what you wanna call it. I usually have JD, Crown, JB, or Makers in the house and mix them or drink on the rocks. I thought the Kirkland Bourbon was fine. For the record just had 4oz on the rocks with a Rocky Patel cigar. For $20 give it a try, if your really picky don't bother...cheers!

YouBoys must be from up north.I bought a bottle of the Kirkland Bourbon last weekend. Tasted just fine in a Mason jar. Think some of you Bourbon experts must be from New York city or likes of that.This is good stuff.

Thanks for the review! I'm a huge fan of Four Roses and Basil Hayden's, and don't care for KC much at all. Since there's only one Costco in all of Colorado that sells liquor, I think you just saved me the trip.Thanks again.

I'm a long time Scotch drinker, but I enjoy a wide range of sipping spirits. A friend shared some of the Kirkland bourbon a couple weeks ago. I was very impressed - deep and complex.Different strokes for different folks, but I'm surprised at the very negative comments by you Rowley. I'm no novice - this is a very decent bourbon, and at $20 is quite a bargain.

Four Roses Single Barrel is very nice. When it looked like we were moving to Louisiana last year, I broke open the last sealed bottle I had and downed it with a bunch of good friends. Had I known we were staying put, I wouldn't have been in such a hurry to kill the bottle...

Now a pour of whiskey and a Rocky Patel cigar is either the end of a long day or the start of a great night for me. I don't regularly smoke cigars, but the RPs have been winners every time.

If we're comparing Costco bourbon to what's regularly available in Mason jars (having had a few decades' experience with that style of liquor), it comes out tasting pretty good. That having been said, the shine is a lot better than it was ten years ago. As for being a Yankee, that's just preposterous.

JMK ~ glad to be of service. Although, as you can tell from the responses here, some people like this stuff. I'm not one of them, but don't turn down a snoot if someone has a bottle and offers you some. Years ago, I was eating breakfast with a chef in Philadelphia at someone else's restaurant. "Ugh," he said, and pushed away his plate toward me. "This is terrible. Try it." I countered that he already told me it was terrible and I didn't need to eat bad food. He held up a finger. "It *is* terrible, but in order to be a diner, you must understand WHY it is terrible. Taste it, critique it, tell me what's wrong." It was an instructive moment. To this day, I will eat bad food (well, taste it), drink bad liquor, see bad movies, so that when the good ones come along, I understand better WHY they are good. If you come across the bourbon, taste it. You may find you like it — or it may serve to solidify your own criteria for "good" and "bad."

Anonymous ~ to tell the truth, I'm a little surprised at myself. It's been my longstanding policy neither to accept paid advertising or give negative reviews in these pages. This was the first time I'd broken that self-imposed rule. I don't accept ads because I'd have little control over the exact content of the ads that rotate through and don't want to be frontman for a product I don't like myself. More importantly, I don't want to hassle with the minimal ad income on my taxes. As for negative reviews — I've always figured that people come to these pages because I write about the things I like, that I've got a degree of trustworthiness and scholarly credibility. I've had wretched, horrible liquors, liquors so bad I've called those responsible and said "I can't possibly write about it, but here's why and if it's reformulated in these ways, feel free to send me a sample and we'll revisit it." A tea liqueur springs to mind; it sits on the floor of my hall liquor closet and I regard it with the same warmth I would a jimsonweed plant. Evil. But I didn't write about it because, well, who wants to read negative reviews? Turns out that a lot of people do: this post gets about 200 hits a day still. In some ways, it's disheartening to realize that if I turned to negative reviews and snarky content, I could make the readership of the blog soar. That's not what I want. I wrote about this because, as a bourbon lover and distilling advocate, I felt as if I'd been conned. This felt personal. It wasn't, of course. I know that now and I knew it when I wrote the piece. But I've been drinking bourbon for decades and in my experience, this one of the most disappointing I've ever bought. That you're a Scotch drinker is interesting to me: I'm not. It seems my tastes in Scotch leans towards very old and shockingly expensive, so it's not a taste I indulge in often. Perhaps this is a bourbon for Scotch drinkers. If that's the case, I'd like to hear from other Scotch enthusiasts who have had this whiskey: what's your take on it?

I just finished reading all of the posts on this blog regarding the Kirkland bourbon. I wouldn't consider myself a bourbon expert as I have been mainly a scotch drinker for many more years. That being said, I discovered the product under discussion today while at Costco and actually walked back to the KC display to compare labels. I had one manhatten before dinner and just finished some on the rocks.

Since I am accustomed to spending $50+ for good single malt scotch, I thought this was a steal. It is way better than the jug of Evan Williams I have been using to mix Manhattans with.

I forget the fellow's name. I was introduced by my cousin while we were picking, we said hi, and had a couple beers. Amusingly enough, the beer my cousin brews (that we were drinking that day) is named "Modus Hoperandi." I suppose it's funnier *while* picking hops than afterward.

Anyway, turns out that this guy (don't know if it's everybody at Peach Street, or just him) is also a business partner at the brewery where my cousin works. I suspect that was what made it a little less than coincidental that he was there picking hops...actually, I think *my* dropping by was more coincidental.

Knob creek? No. Id say its on par with Jim Beam Black label (also aged 7 years) but the KS is a bit stronger. At 51.5% alcohol its not gonna taste very smooth, but I find it decent and better than old grandad, wild turkey, or most other bonded strength whiskeys. Not an ouragous bargain, but I wouldn't complain. My taste happens to be in rather expensive bottles like Bookers and colorado whiskey, but still I'm humble enough to drink some Early Times with my old man. Aside from all that, the words"small batch" printed under "kirkland signature" kinda cracks me up. Quit complaining and drink!

I am a KC, Bakers and Bookers regular and disagree with those who don' like the Kirkland product. Kirkland is not in league with Bakers or Bookers, but is similar enough to KC to be a great value at $19.99 for a liter. In a blind taste, the only difference I noticed is that Kirkland's "nose" is not as pronounced as KC's. I like it.BHSan Diego

As a collector of whiskey, I've become very fond of American Whiskey after starting with Scotch. For Bourbon, I mostly like Four Roses, Willet, Pappy 15 and the Antique Collection bottles of bourbon and Rye. I'm always in the hunt for good inexpensive bourbon as an everyday bottle, so seeing the CostCo bottle today for the first time, it was easy to drop $19 to grab one. I haven't found many bottles I like for less than $50, but this one did it.

I don't know what batch the reviewer here got, but my bottle was quite good- and compares well with many bottles in the $50 range. Compared to $20-$30 bottles, it tops almost all. I'd love to hear what bottles <$50 people like better...

I just shared this bourbon with two other bourbon drinkers. Mixed reviews at the start. Partner #1 (a Knob Creek drinker) recognized a familiarity with Knob Creek and found it neither exceptional or bad. Partner #2 liked this a great deal. At first I reacted to the pungent nose, but found the taste and then the finish acceptable.

This was my friends bottle that was purchased the same day I picked up my own bottle at Costco. I will certainly keep this on hand. All in all NOT BAD.

Tasted it for the first time this weekend. I read some posts that folks thought it was similar to Knob Creek, my favorite bourbon, so I was very excited to try it. This is not Knob Creek, that is extremely obvious from the nose, before you ever taste it. I could pick this from Knob Creek blind tasting 100 times out of 100 any day, and could do it by aroma only at least 90 /100. For my taste, this is not a sipping bourbon, only suitable for mixed drinks, although it does smell very pretty.

Well, we didn't throw it out OR return it. I couldn't help thinking there had to be some use for the stuff. One of my friends has been mixing it with Blenheim ginger ale (a potent, fiery soda) that masks the taste — mostly. Last night, a small group from a local eatery that's developing its drinks menu came over to use the library and talk about spirits. Among other brands we talked about and sampled, I introduced them to several corn whiskies (yeah, yeah: it makes sense given their focus) and several test drinks got made. The Costco bourbon's reception: poor. I still think there's something to the idea that Scotch drinkers may like this bourbon, but, yes, its best use (at least at my house and among my friends) may be as a mixing whiskey. Just not in my drinks, please.

The bottles must be hugely inconsistent. As a longtime collector of upscale bourbons (including various single barrel, "reserve," and other excuses for hugely marked up bottles), I consider myself to be somewhat of an expert in what makes for a bourbon. And I have to say that the Costco bottle I bought is by far the best deal I've ever had on a bourbon. It easily compares with many of the $50-$60 bottles in my collection, and I find it perfectly enjoyable to sip neat. After reading the rest of the messages here I'm convinced that once I finish this bottle I'll go back for another and it will be swill...

Let us know, Adam, how the second bottle turns out. I'm curious about it myself. Everything about the provenance of this bourbon suggests that a liter for $20 should be a great deal. Clearly, though, the reviews are mixed and not everyone thinks so. Could it be something so simple as inconsistency among bottles? It doesn't seem likely, but it would help explain this sort of bi-modal take on Kirkland bourbon.

I picked up a bottle of the Kirkland Single Barrel Bourbon. Some comments:It was not as complex in a flavor profile as I'd like. It was neither harsh, and was actually quite smooth, and drinkable.While nowhere near a Knob Creek, I did find it makes for a teriffic cooking bourbon. Used it in some bourbon glazed carrots, and baked stuffed sweet potato's. The bourbon profile in these dishes was remarkable! For 20 bucks, you get the real deal of great bourbon flavor without depleting the stash of the good stuff to make a topping for ice cream.So, for me; it's cook with it, and sample along the way. Everybody wins.

I have personally bought this bourbon from Costco and the "experts" who wrote this are retards. It is not hard to stomach, nor does it have a bad taste to it. Maybe they couldnt handle the 103 proof. For 19.99 this is an absolute steal. I think we need some new experts.

I'm new to this site. Fell for the lure of the Kirkland Bourbon this weekend and now doing followup research. Have found other Kirkland products to be of good quality, so a liter of 7-y-o 103 proof bourbon for $20 seemed a reasonable gamble. Clearly the bottle/label is designed to appeal to Knob Creek and Woodford Reserve drinkers. Other hints on the label led me to believe it's a Beam product, of which I am generally fond, so I bought one and have sampled it several times since.I generally prefer my bourbon straight, and this bottle is a pleasant pour and excellent value. It is a Beam product (that Beam has tried hard to disguise) and I like it better than the Jim Beam White and Jim Beam Black I have had lately. It lacks the complexity and sophistication of Beam's small batch collection. In fact this Kirkland could be described as "Knob Creek Light"--not in the sense of proofage, but in terms of complexity and sophistication. I imagine that Beam's "honey barrels" are being used for Knob Creek, Bakers, and Bookers, while some others are passed along to Costco. Time may tell if Kirkland can establish and maintain a consistent taste profile for its bourbon. If not, maybe the batch number on the bottle might become something to pay attention to.The bottle I bought was very good juice at an excellent price.

Four of us tried the Kirkland Bourbon and after one or two sipps we all poured it out of our glasses. It was horrible! We had been on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail and it tasted nothing like anything we tasted there. We took the bottle back for a refund.

Thanks so much for your note. I apologize for the long delay in responding; it seems I was traveling in Oregon when this came and I simply didn't notice until right now. Balancing your comments with those of Anonymous directly after yours, I think we see the same bimodal reaction that looks like is played out above. Some people — experienced whiskey drinkers — really like this bourbon and others want to dump it down the drain. We have either unwittingly uncovered two very different classes of bourbon enthusiasts or (and I actually find this hard to believe) there's a quality/consistency control issue at the distillery.

Although this is not the whiskey for me, plenty of others do seem to like it and, for $20 per liter, it is a great deal for them.

I agree with Chuckles. My wife buys the Kirkland Vodka which is made by Grey Goose and that is why I took a flyer on the Bourbon. I find it acceptable. But really I'd rather buy Maker's 1.75 liter at Costco ($5-7 cheaper than the cheapest supermarket liquor store in my town). It makes for a better Manhattan. Cheers Y'all!!!!

I just was a Costco and saw this bourbon. I didn't buy any because I wanted to check a few reviews and I stumbled on to this one.

My guess is that it appears that it is some derivative of Knob Creek. While I am great fan of KC, I find it to be highly variable among batches. Some are very hot while others are smoother, sweeter and a bit nuttier. I almost had to pour one bottle out. So I am not surprised to find even more variability in the reviews of the Kirkland bottling here.

I recently purchased a 120 proof Single Barrell KC that I haven't tried yet. Hopefully, the master distillers and blenders had their best noses on when they picked barrels for the KC single barrel bottlings.

Wow, taste, like beauty, is inthe eye of the beholder. The taste is very similar to other well rated Bourban that I have also enjoyed. Maker's Mark is also a good wheated whisky and unique in taste. Enjoy what pleases your palate and do not worry about what other say or think.

I "discovered" Bourbon a couple of years ago (I'm 42). I do not have a sophisticated pallet but I do enjoy the stuff. My favorite thus far is Bulleit Bourbon (their Rye is insane). Anyway, I thoroughly enjoy this Kirkland Bourbon with water. I haven't tried it straight yet (just got it yesterday).

I'm a scotch drinker. I wanted to try a few bourbons to confirm my snobbishness and started with Jim Beam Black after reading several good reviews. It's straight forward and simple, wood and vanilla/caramel.

Not a bad taste at all, but no intrigue.

Saw this at Costco and gave it a try. Complex, delicious, compares favorably with a cheaper single malt, Tomatin, Tamdhu....probably even better.

Those two are great buys at 20 bucks for a .750 liter.

This stuff is a fantastic buy at 20 bucks a full liter and far better than Jim Beam Black. Can't see how anybody could possibly complain.

I also love to cook with Cognac and am interested to see how this stuff will work in some of my recipes, it has a fantastic nose.

The great thing about taste is I own mine. So for anybody reading this post, don't get caught up in "Oh, this guy has a blog and he is going to tell me what I should like to drink." Like it? Great. Hate it? Great. But don't let some wannabe snob tell you. Do some more research on this whiskey and you'll see a pretty even split. The Whiskey Apostle calls it "This little jewel from Costco" and "But to me this tastes like Knob and Baker’s love child. It’s as good as either but for less than half the price." A taste test on YouTube (from three "normal" people) picked it over Makers Mark and Knob Creek. All I'm saying is, make up your own mind--that's the joy of drinking.

Hey anonymous Scotch drinker: It seems to me that you’ve uncovered what to my mind is the most interesting vein in this conversation: that Scotch lovers in particular seem more open to this particular bourbon than do others. Glad to hear that you like it. It’s always a good day when you find out about something new and wonderful in the world. I tell you what; if you’re anywhere near San Diego, you can swing by and claim the rest of this bottle for yourself. Even though I don’t care for it, it would give me great pleasure passing on someone who does.

Now then, for the anonymous writer who owns his own taste; Oh, come on. Your ad hominem attack is simply childish. As the guy who has long publicly championed moonshine, I surrendered any claim on snobbery ages ago. And what did I write? “Try it if you want; maybe you'll like it.” Seems to me that we’ve said pretty much the same thing: make up your own mind. The difference seems that I didn’t like it, but you did.

By all means, do some more research on this whiskey. In fact, you don’t even have to leave this page before you see a split among those who like it and those who don’t. Like it, don’t like it; buy it, don’t buy it. Do what you want. I’m just saying what I thought of it and what my whiskey-drinking friends thought of it. But attacking me on one hand because I’m a writer with a blog and therefore “some wannabe snob” and on the other appealing to the authority of others who also opine online is preposterous. I’ve tasted thousands of spirits from hundreds of distillers. This doesn’t make me an expert. What it makes me is a guy who’s had a lot of whiskey and — in my own opinion — this one doesn’t come anywhere near the best of them.

For $20, though, you can determine for yourself easily whether it’s something you would use to clean lawnmower parts or serve to honored guests.

I'm a scotch drinker from Humboldt County, CA. - but I also dabble in other whiskeys. Inspired by this thread, I just did a quick taste / comparison (non-blind, sorry...) of the following: Kirkland Premium Small Batch, Maker's Mark, Jack Daniel's Single Barrel Select (Rick#R-19, Barrel#10-0819), Gentleman Jack & Crown Royal Select. I liked the Kirkland Small Batch & JD Single Barrel best, Maker's Mark & Gentleman Jack next, and the Crown Royal Select the least. The Kirkland & the JD Single Barrel were the only ones in this grouping that had pronounced oak in the aroma & taste. I find the Kirkland Small Batch very tasty, and unbelievably smooth for 103 proof. Personally, I think it's a screamin' deal @ $19.99 for a full liter & am going to go stock up on a few extra bottles. Cheers!

I am not a bourbon drinker but decided to try Costco's Kirkland Bourbon. Having tried the Kirkland vodka earlier which tasted just like Grey Goose thought what the heck. Was very pleased with this bourbon and don't understand why there is so much negative comment on this site. Oh well, as they say, taste is up to the individual.

Gotta agree with Rowley folks. I am a Woodford buff and drank Knob for a few years. Love Wild Turkey Rare Breed too... Makers is a different animal altogether so let it breathe. Anyway....sip the Kirkland Bourbon and wait 3-4 minutes. Antiseptic aftertaste (mouthwash affect) it is undeniable. Followed by a tobacco flavor like a false start on a cigar. I wanted to like it really bad-I did! Especially because of price. Once again I found cheap booze is never good booze and GOOD Bourbon for sure is never cheap. I think Beam Whiskeys are decent overall but the Kirkland Bourbon offering is a fake with a Bulleit bottle, a Woodford tag and a corked top to seal the deal. Warm Regards,LiquorPig

PS: To the guy drinking Old Overholt Manhattan's: If we ever meet I'm gonna need an autograph and a picture so my drinkin buddy's believe you exist. Pirate blood is in short supply!!

The guy who is on record as registering The Clear Spring Distilling Company with the Kentucky Secretary of State is their CFO, Paul Pape. If you check him out on LinkedIn, Paul is also the CFO of Sazerac, a distiller of all kinds of hard liquor and which is based in New Orleans. This bourbon does not have a pedigree...if that's more significant than taste.

I've heard claims that Baker's is nothing more than honey-barrels of "Old Grand Dad"(ironic, considering the sister small batch Basil Hayden, who is also the namesake for 'Old Grand Dad') I research every odd disillery I find on the shelf @ Total Wine, so I haven't been burned-my my father always claims every store-brand is a major brand but when it comes to liquor it's usually from Mira Loma, CA-a town that actually changed its name after the infamy from the serial killer's farm you saw in Clint Eastwood's "The Changeling"; http://www.pe.com/local-news/riverside-county/corona/corona-headlines-index/20110426-qa-proof-in-each-bottle-for-mira-loma-company.ece

I shouldn't say anything lest my supply of this stuff dries up, but man is it good. And the price is just stupid. I need to get another dozen btls before this stuff is gone. AND, IMO, if you're not drinking your good bourbon just straight up in a nice clean glass, you are unqualified to comment on what is good and not good. Just sayin'....

Anonymous ~ By all means, buy all the bottles you can or will ever want. One can never count on particular products ever being at Costco from one visit to the next. Bourbon? Yes. This particular bourbon? It's a toss-up. If it's to your taste, though, then stock up.

As far as any anyone being unqualified to comment on any spirit "just straight up in a nice clean glass" — you are absolutely 100% correct, though I wonder who might be writing about the stuff after drinking from broke-down, dirty glasses. Sampling it straight up is certainly one of the first steps one takes when judging a spirit (after evaluating its look and aroma). That's why I specifically called out sampling it straight up before going on with other ways of looking at the same whiskey.

No matter how it's served, this is not a bourbon I would hand to honored guests.

LYAO, Cocktail Codex? You may want to have a professional look into that. Inappropriate laughter may be indicative of a social anxiety disorder.

Joshing aside, your analogy misses the mark entirely; I never told anyone what they should be drinking or how to drink it. I only offered a subjective opinion, albeit an educated one informed by decades of drinking and spirits judging, on what I consider an inferior spirit. If you look at other comments above, you'll realize that many (and many of them are Scotch drinkers) like it. We don't.

As for steak; I don't care how you cook your steak or drink your whiskey. You can have it cooked well done, frosted in a mantle of coconut buttercream, and washed down with asparagus-infused Georgia Moon if you like — just don't expect me to come around twice for dinner.

What we threw down the sink was what we had poured into our glasses. The bottle itself I kept — not because I'm a fan of the whiskey but because...well, two reasons. The first is that my mother instilled in me an abiding thriftiness that makes me loathe to get rid of anything that may be of value.

Second, one of my friends doesn't mind drinking it. He is 23 years old and his tastes are not mine, at least when it comes to whiskey. I also keep a bottle of suspect Irish whiskey around just for him.

I do keep bottles of spirits around that have various faults or defects. I like to be able to demonstrate to visitors sometimes how, for instance, a scorched brandy tastes or to identify the taste of a rum that isn't quite the ABV stated on its label.

What we threw down the sink was what we had poured into our glasses. The bottle itself I kept — not because I'm a fan of the whiskey but because...well, two reasons. The first is that my mother instilled in me an abiding thriftiness that makes me loathe to get rid of anything that may be of value.

Second, one of my friends doesn't mind drinking it. He is 23 years old and his tastes are not mine, at least when it comes to whiskey. I also keep a bottle of suspect Irish whiskey around just for him.

I do keep bottles of spirits around that have various faults or defects. I like to be able to demonstrate to visitors sometimes how, for instance, a scorched brandy tastes or to identify the taste of a rum that isn't quite the ABV stated on its label.

Good to hear from you. I happen to enjoy high-proof spirits, including rum, gin, brandy, and whiskey. Just not this one. And, to be fair, we did try it several different ways in addition to straight — in cocktails, with ice, with water. If you enjoy it, then by all means buy it.

I do, however, take exception to one thing you say. Whiskey is nothing like a well-structured red wine. With the exception of very young white dog, whiskey does not improve in the bottle. If anything, one has to keep it in a cool and dark place if there is any intention to keep it for years in order to minimize damage from ultraviolet waves in sunlight, from low relative humidity which can affect the seal and another of other environmental pitfalls. No, whiskey does not get better in the bottle. It may stabilize, it may change very, very slowly, but it is unlike wine in that distillers and blenders have already judged it to be at its peak when they sell it to us. Squirrel it away if you like, but do try to keep it cool, dark, and neither too dry nor too humid. Also, unlike wine, spirits ought to be stored upright rather than on the side. Like all Kirkland products, this one may simply no longer be available one day. Because it is not likely to go bad (or in this case any worse), you may want to consider buying quite a lot of it and keeping it squirreled away.

I don't like how you claim to be neutral, and say "hey give it a try", then go to great lengths to show&tell how HORRIBLE this KS batch is... Why aren't you comfortable enough with yourself to just say "I dont like it, because it has xxx characteristics".

The world is full of things we don't like. I don't like that you and a bunch of other people comment anonymously here — but there it is. I explain why I don't like this batch and, frankly, don't care whether you agree with me.

I am entirely and wholly comfortable with myself (what a bizarre attack to assert otherwise). I say try it if you want because people like all sorts of questionable things; planking, Larry the Cable Guy, balut, butterscotch schnapps, Two and a Half Men, bondage, cubic zirconia, White Snake, and Beanie Babies. Blow all your time and money on these things. What do you care if anyone else likes or dislikes them? If you enjoy it (whatever "it" is) and you're not hurting anyone, then to hell with everybody else. You go on and enjoy.

Picked some of this up and have to say after a sip or two came to look online, and... you hit the nail on the head. Harsh, but not so harsh that it couldn't stand in for a mint julep. Overall disappointing. Great review.

Thanks for all the comments. I didn't read anyone talking about the Jim Beam 8 year old with the Black Label. That's my favorite. Try it! Pretty smooth and it won the taste test of several high dollar bourbons at our home.

I walked about two miles to Costco on a lay- over and bought the Costco Brand 7 year old. I can't drink it until Imget home tomorrow somim dying to validate your comments, both good and bad. Fun reading you bourbon crowd.

Might as well throw in my two cents... I tried this CostCo Bourbon, thinking it had to be worth at least $20 a liter. This is roughly what CostCo charges for Jack Daniels (not a bourbon, I know). I was pleasantly surprised. Nice nose, nice flavor, pleasant finish. It's not comparable to a Rock Hill Farms or Hancock's President's Reserve... ($50 a fifth) but I like it better than KC, which I don't think is anything special, and MUCH better than Maker's (which is just a notch above gasoline IMO). Thanks very much for the review, but I like it and will buy again. - mikebo

What does proof and age have to do with whether it's a good bourbon? Barrel strength whiskey is always diluted with water to a specific proof. Age is determined when the barrel taster says, "it's done". I've liked 7 year better than 12.

It's not $50 a fifth quality, but for $20 a liter what does anyone expect? It's a very good bourbon for the price.

Just picked up a bottle of Kirkland 7 year.Like the rest of you, I am interestedin finding out more details. I was told by the Costco staff that it is a Woodford Reserve product. I was also told that the Costco vodka was distilled in the old Grey Goose plant.

I think it is great, and well worth the price. It is a little harsh for 80 proof, but not for 103. Then again, I usually go against the norm. I think Maker's is absolute CRAP, and will take Dickel #12 over it any day of the week. You can find several bottles of the Kirkland in my house at any given time. You will also find Virginia Gentlemen 90 which I feel is another rare treat. Everyone has their own tastes.

I'm a wine drinker, but I have discovered bourbon a couple of years ago and I love it. I've tried most of the well known brands under $50 per bottle. I always drink my bourbon neat, poured from the bottle and nothing added.

My previous bottle was the Kirkland Bourbon and I must say it blew me away. It had very complex nose, nice burn, and a long finish. My current bottle is Russel's Reserve small batch 10 yo. It's a nice bourbon, but compared to Kirkland it lacks the complexity, the finish is rather short and has a little sweet aftertaste. I finished a bottle of Knob Creek not too long ago, and I don't find it to be similar to Kirkland. I am very interested to know who bottles Kirkland, as this is one exceptional bourbon.

I'm now onto the second bottle of Costco Bourbon and I like it a lot. Previously I've had Bulleit, Four Roses, Maker's Mark, 46, Woodford, Knob Creek, and Russells. I've just bought Buffalo Trace for the first time, and I must say Buffalo Trace is a very nice bourbon. Furthermore, the flavor profile is very similar to Costco Bourbon. BT is much smoother and gentler than Costco, but their similarity is unmistakable. Costco has a bit more burn, which may be a turn off for some people. While I like the Costco Bourbon a lot, now that I've tasted Buffalo Trace I don't see any reason to get Costco Bourbon any more since BT offers a lot more for a few more dollars. Bottom line, if you like Buffalo Trace, then you may find Costco Bourbon appealing and likeable.

This is a perfect example of, "Good Men (and Women) having honest differences of opinion. In truth, there is no Definable Standard (that I am aware of) with respect to this issue. So, imbibe if you like, and avoid if you don't. Bob Bodack, Farmington Hills, Mi.

Here in Warshintun State, home of Costco, we recently privatized our liquor business, doing much damage to my wallet. I bought a jug this morning, and thought it was just fine. I dream about $20 bottles of any distiller spirits here. By the time the State is done with taxes, fees and assorted add-ons you will be lucky to get out of the door for less than forty bucks even for the cheap stuff. Our friends across the pond who wear plaid skirts and are noted for their thrift have made a good thing out of buying our used barrels, but come up short for my tastes. Costco has some very talented tasters on their payroll which really show in their Kirkland labeled wines, and their move to the premium booze market will yield some real bargains sooner or later. I don't care who makes the Kirkland Bourbon so long as it's good, and I thought it good.

I Have drinking bourbon for years veteran of the bourbon trail and Bardstown tastings.....I think Costco bourbon is a very smooth, but not complex bourbon that for $20 is a great value. I am partial to higher rye bourbons which this is not but this has a spot on my shelf.

I thoroughly enjoyed the bottle of Kirkland given to me by a friend. It compares to the Old Weller 10 year that is no longer available. In fact, I liked it so much that I may have to join Costco and make the out of state trek to stock up. Beautiful bourbon for a beautiful price.

Seems to be alot of bourbon snobs commenting. Look guys, its not the greatest bourbon in the country agreed. But its much better than say George Dickel.So get off your horses, and enjoy it for what it is BOURBON plain and simple

I don't know what you want. It's $20 whiskey. Tell me one better for the price? Beam or Buffalo Trace it tastes great. I've paid a lot more for a lot worse. Winkle is the greatest but who can mortgage his house for a bottle?

Last weekend I went to Costco and saw their Kirkland Small Batch Premium Bourbon for sale at only $19.99 a bottle. i thought this might be a bargain. I went to my car and did a search of the product and Rowley's Whiskey Forge came up. I read your comments, and said that it looks like I got fooled into wasting $20.00, and if the whiskey is that bad, I am going to definitely toss it. After getting home I tasted the bourbon and said not bad. So I decided to wait a while and try it again. As a matter of fact, it is quite good. I am now wondering why folk are making such bad remarks about it.

Although I enjoyed the above comments most seem to be missing the point. This product is clearly listed as a "small batch" whiskey most likely with a completely unique mash bill. Since it is a bourbon the only requirement is that mash bill be at least 50% corn. Master Distillers are always tweaking the mash bill for unique character in small batch whiskies. As to value, aging a whiskey is probably the most significant factor in it's cost. Thus 20 bucks for a liter of 7 year old whiskey has to be considered a great value. Hats off to Costco for continuing to do what they do best... give us great values! I also really enjoy their Kirkland 18 year old scotch and the Kirkland brut at 20 bucks a pop is amazing!

I just bought a bottle of Kirkland "Premium Small Batch Bourbon" here in an Asian country where decent bourbon is impossible to obtain. I'm normally content with such fare as Maker's Mark and Knob Creek, but here in Asia I have had to grown accustomed to various kinds of Scotch Whiskey, which totally dominate the market here in Taiwan.

Hence I was pleased to find a bourbon that wasn't absurdly overpriced Jim Bean or Jack Daniels, two products I would under normal circumstances never drink, despite (or perhaps because of) being from Tennessee myself.

TO my palate the Kirkland stuff is really sweet, with big, simple notes of caramel and vanilla. The sweetness and flavor is almost over the top- smooth, but not subtle. Maybe they've changed the recipe since the initial review, as this stuff is not harsh at all; in fact it seems they have over-corrected toward the sweet side of the spectrum. Given the price and lack of other products here, I am OK with it, but not sure how often I would buy something this sweet and bright. If you like smoky and more complex/subtle bourbons, you will probably not like this one.

I am thinking that the Bourbon Costco is selling in mid-2013 may not be the same as the Bourbon they were selling in early 2011 when Mr. Rowley made his blog entry. I would be very interested to see Mr Rowley sample a bottle from today's stock and update the review. I would even spring for the bottle!

Personally, I like it. It is not going to make me forget Elijah Craig 12 YO or Jefferson Presidential Select or even Elmer T. Lee. But I prefer it over a whole lot of other more expensive Bourbons. Peronally . . . I think it is a good deal.

One of the most intriguing things about this Bourbon is that it has inspired a discussion that has lasted more than 2 years.

For what it's worth, I opened a bottle today and had some over ice with thimble-full of water, which is how I was taught to drink Scotch. I found it both drinkable and enjoyable. I'm sure there are better Bourbons out there, but I'm not sure that there are better ones at this price.

I was spoiled once and had a taste of some tequila that was $100 a shot. I'm a whiskey drinker myself, but this tequila opened my eyes to what is out there. I find most store bought alcohol pretty gross. They taste that rubbing alcohol with a little flavor. Most are what i call mixing liquors.

Disagree totally! This is a great bourbon that you can get elsewhere for a lot more money! Perhaps not to your taste. You might like JIm Beam or Early Times better. Sorry JB to put you in the same sentence as ET!

Ok so I am not connoisseur by any means. My Chivas 25 has collected dust on my shelf while Chivas 12 is in heavy rotation. I also drink Gentleman Jack. I can afford better but I like what I like. Forgive me, but I like this stuff.

So the problem with a generic store brand like Kirkland is that is that its source can change from time to time. As of the date of this post, the google machine tells me that Kentucky Springs distilling company bottles the Kirkland stuff. They bottle Knob Creek, Basil Hayden's, Bookers, and Bakers. These are Beam Global brands which also includes Red Stag, Makers Mark, and (gulp) Old Grand dad! So what is Kirkland bourbon? Is it Jim Beam or Old Crow? It doesn't matter. Did you like it when you drank it? Then that's all that matters. If you do like it then your only problem is that you can't order it at the bar...or can you? Drink what you like, and if you need "expert" confirmation that you are drinking "acceptable" spirits, then you should probably do us all a favor and have a drink of the denatured variety.

The pro guys and the con guys here are as an interesting read as the original article.

As a single malt guy who dabbles in Bourbon, I'd say it's what you like. It's too bad Costco doesn't sell nips so you could try it without getting a fill liter. I tried it for the first time today, pretty good as far as I'm concerned. It's like wine, there's no good or bad wine, it's what you like. -Jay

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Rowley Who?

I'm a contributor to Whisky Advocate, contributing editor for Distiller magazine, a former board member of the Southern Foodways Alliance, and an erstwhile museum curator. After a life of living in bitterly cold and unspeakably hot places, I'm lucky enough to be working my tail off in southern California. Can't beat that with a stick.

Email me: moonshinearchives (at) gmail (dot) com

My day job is freelance writing for business, government, and academic clients. When I’m not helping others get their stories out, I’m eating and drinking, planning to eat and drink, or, relying on my training as an anthropologist and museum curator to reflect on what I’ve eaten and drunk. I travel whenever I can, visiting distillers, artisan food producers, secondhand bookstores, and farmers’ markets. Sometimes I manage to write about it here.