Description:

A stellar 10a, the crux comes at the first bolt where you have to mantle over a roof, a very strenuous move. It stays challenging after the crux. VALYGRL's edits: crux is not the mantle, but the thin section above.

well-protected

clip the first bolt to the right with a shoulder sling, then clip the mantle, second bolt. After you pull the mantle and clip the "third" bolt, reach down and unclip the second bolt (yes, they're that close) to avoid drag.

Also - stay to the right along the arete for the easiest climbing after the mantle.