how do change the rear brake shoes on a 2005 chevy malibu 2.2? i mean i know how just need to know how to reuse the part the is riveted onto the oem brake shoe. if i remove the rivet how do i reattach it to the new brake shoe? is there a new part i need buy to replace it? its the part that holds the parking brake cable on to the brake shoe and holds the adjuster actuator. ive never seen this part riveted in place on other vehicles.

I've been having a little problem with my brake pedal that I can't quite understand yet. Sometimes when I turn my car on, I'll hear a grinding noise from the brake pedal. Other times, I may need to push the brake all the way in with force in order to shift out of park.

The other day, a man stopped me and asked if my emergency brake was in. I told him no, and he proceeded to tell me that I had travelled through about 6 redlights and my brake light never went out while he was behind me. If I gave my pedal another forceable push, things would go back to normal for a few seconds; then my brake light would come on by itself again.

Someone at a dealership told me months ago he thought my Brake Sensor Module (the $20 part that goes under the dash) was going bad. I just now had it replaced.

I got through a day, then the light came on by itself again. Curiousity caught me, so I parked the car and used my pedal adjustment button to move the pedals back and forth a little bit. Then, boom! It's been fine since.

Why do I have to move the pedals again every once in awhile? Is something going bad? Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!

I havent worked on the brakes but I do believe the pistons in the calipers not only move in and out but they also twist. That means in order to retract them to replace the pads you need a tool that twists them at the same time it squeezes them. I've noticed a few tools around that do just that.

Has anyone replaced their front rotors on a 05 malibu, 60000km/35641 miles I'm looking at after market rotors from Brembo they are crossdrilled with slots for better cooling. Mine has warped after a road trip to Seattle driving through the Steven's pass ,very steep grade and lots of hot braking which showed the poor quality of the rotors. Just looking for superior braking without warping rotors.Russ

I am having the same problem and it's driving me NUTS! Replaced the same part and still having the same problem, today they calibrated it because they said it had to be done but they didn't know it at the time. Once again, when I left with my car it is STILL doing it! Someone must know what's going on but WHO???

I replaced the rotors on my 04 Malibu Maxx with standard OEM replacement parts from NAPA......havent had any problem with warping since then....also insure your lug nuts are torqued to the proper specs and not completely tighten with the impact wrench....

I have a 2004 Malibu Maxx, I&#146;m having a problem with the brakes and the dealer said he can&#146;b find anything wrong, we put new brake pads on at 38,000 miles (out of warranty) and had to machine the rotors. We only have 41K on it now, he told me that rust was building up on the pads because we weren&#146;t driving it enough.Now its doing the same thing, intermitting catching, no rhyme or reason, we can be out on the highway and it feels like the emergency brake is on, the brake pedal is extremely sensitive, RPMs are high and I can&#146;t get up to speed, I have to get to the nearest exit quick. Doesn&#146;t happen all the time and I never know when it will catch.

I have a 2006 Malibu SS. Love my car, but the T/C light and engine light are on more than they are off. Today I went to dealer they were off so they wouldn't look at it. They have repaired it twice for the same thing. The squealing from the breaks is driving me a little crazy also. No noise today. Kinda like the toothache at the dentist.

i have owned 2 malibu's a 98' and my current 01'. On the 98' i went thru 12 sets of brakes in little over a year. what i learned is that anytime you have to either jump start your battery or someone else you have to do it a certain way. charge the battery but do not start either car until you have disconnected the jumper cables, if you do it can send a surge to your ECM which can mess up the whole braking system. my problem was when i would take my foot of the brake, the calipers would not immediately release causing premature brake pad wear. Second piece of advise, dont go to the dealer service center unless you like getting ripped off. i recently had a local brake shop replace everything (4 rotors and 4 premium brake pad) for around $300 buck. and they work better than anything the dealer ever did.

Coming home from work the wheels totally stopped, I got the car to the dealer (will take it somewhere else next time). All 4 wheels were stuck, none of them would turn, you could smell brakes burning in the whole shop. This was late on Friday and they didn&#146;t' look at the car until Monday, of course by then they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They kept it a whole week. Now I&#146;m uneasy about going on the high way, I never know when the brakes will jam all the wheels.Chevy has no answer for me either; we've been back and forth with them. Same old story, they can't fix it until they can reproduce the problem.EP

The Ultra performance rotors are 1.256 inches thick as compared to the premium rotors at 1.025 inches thick. Difference of .230 inches thickness between regular and performance equip....which ones did you use , the thicker rotors wouldn't warp as quickly as the standard rotors, more material to heat up..About 45 more dollars more for the Ultra pref compared to 80 dollars for the OEM rotors from NAPA...

We have a 2006 Malibu we bought used in '08. Brakes became very touchy sporadically in Jan. '09 and dealer couldn't duplicate problem so sent us home. At times it felt like the e-brake was on. This happened a few times and only when we had been driving the car for a while and it was hot. After much persistance, the dealer decided the brake fluid was contaminated with a petroleum product that of course our extended warranty didn't cover. Were told to go through our auto insurance - vandalism??? Has anyone else had this problem and what was the outcome. We think it is something else and not contamination of the brake fluid because it happens sporadically and we were told that if your brake fluid/system is contaminated with a petroleum product that the problem with occur all the time...we're just not buying it.

It is extremely important! Impact wrenches should be banned.That excess pressure from over tightening not only causes the warping of rotors, but other problems just in the area of braking. And other places as well.Once a nut is overtightened beyond a point, it is the equivalent of hitting the back of the hub and the nut location of the wheel with a big hammer. Only a small amount of that deformation will go away when the nut is loosened.That deformation will spread through the entire piece, more rapidly with repeated heating and cooling such as braking. The face of the hub will eventually not be perfectly flat to mate with a new rotor and the same with the wheel. So even with a new rotor and properly torqued nuts you are starting the problem anew with mismatched surfaces.Further that deformed hub also houses the bearing and such forces will shorten the life of the bearing.Demand torque wrench only!Catch them in the act with a camera and make them replace all the parts with new.4 new alloy wheels with dismounting, remounting, and balancing of tires, over $1000.4 new hubs and bearings + labor, easily another $1000.They get hit with that a few times and those impact wrenches will disappear.And customers will have far fewer problems.

Inconsistent brakes on my 2006 malibu maxx. Sometimes when I start driving I have no brake pedal free play and the brakes may drag (ebrake not on), enough to heat up the rotors to a warping condition. I will stop the auto before they get too hot and do permenant damage, I can stop the car without stepping on the brake pedal at that time.

This car is an automatic!

Shut the car off from the earlier condition and restart the car and brakes are fine (sometimes). Other times if it sets for a while 6- 12 hrs I may get in it, start it up and pedal goes almost to the floor. Still other times the condition remains the same.

Brake abs work like normal with either of these conditions and brake pedal feel is normal when I finally reach the point when the brakes engage.

When the brakes go nearly to the floor at startup, after a few miles the brakes return gradually to normal.

I can also be driving with a normal to very little free play pedal and the next time I apply the brakes the pedal will go down approximately 1 1/2" lower than it was the previous time ( this fortunately happens less frequently.

It throws no fault codes and no trouble lights ever come on. It does not act like air in the brakes (ever).

It is becoming more frequent.

It can make a situation that it can't go 35 mph without downshifting the trans trying to maintain speed on a flat and level rd.

It happens with no consistancy..

I was trained as a master mechanic back in 1972 and have a remained active in auto racing and restoration ever since but have never been employed as a full time mechanic.

The car has 19,000 miles and was purchased new.

The car has been to the dealer three times and no problems were found. The fourth time they acknowledged the problem but had no solution other than start replacing parts starting with the calipers. At my expense since the warranty has expired. There were no TSBs regarding this issue and they've never heard of anything like this before.

i have an 06 malibu ss and i bought it brand new... i had issues with my brakes. but mine just got ate up fast. primarily the rear... i was told the brake calibrations were off thats why the rear were killed 1st. i replaced all of them and these brakes werent cheap but ive been dealing with crazy annoying squealing. when i talked to a shop they said to get ceramic brakes. he said they should be better. but theyre expensive. good stuff huh?! :mad:

I had to change my rear brake pads twice during the past two years. My 2005 Malibu had 46k miles when rear pads were changed last year. Chevy dealer can't find the problem or they knew it just don't tell. Couple weeks ago I changed front pads at 55k miles.

We finally took our 04 Malibu Maxx to another Chevy dealer, he want's $2,000 to replace the master cyliner, put on new rotors and brake pads and something to do with the drainig something and replaceing fluid. in other words redo the whole brake system. we're not even sure this will fix it. We can feel when the brakes lock up and we just pull over as quick as possible and wait for the brakes to release. We have not decided what to do, the car is ony worth $5-6,000 on a trade in, and only has 53K miles on it. We've been back and forth with GM they had no idea what was happening. If you are interested I'll find out exactly what they plan to do, we strongly feel at this time we are going to trade it in on a Honda. EP

Hello,I am from GM Customer Service. I apologize for the concern on your vehicle. Can you please email me with more information about your situation, so I can look into your situation further? You can find my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,Mariah GM Customer Service