Own a '04 Newmar Kountry Star Workhorse Gas, the hood release has always been hard to open, day before yesterday the T handle came loose,and the hood won't open. Any ideas or recommendations from the Newmar group?

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Own a '04 Newmar Kountry Star Workhorse Gas, the hood release has always been hard to open, day before yesterday the T handle came loose,and the hood won't open. Any ideas or recommendations from the Newmar group?

Don't know exactly what you mean by came loose. But you will need to get up behind door and move arm somehow. On both of my Newmars I have extended the arm on the latch about 2" with a piece of metal. This gives you more leverage and makes it much better. It also need to be lubed good.

My Newmar Scottsdale is also hard to open. Can you explain farther how you extended the arm with a piece of metal in order to make it easier ............

If your latch is like the latch on my last two Newmar diesels. Get a small piece of steel app 1'x3" drill a couple of holes and secure extension to original arm with machine screws and nuts, drill a small hole near the end of the extension to install cable end. The point is to extend the arm about 2" for more leverage. You may need to vary the length of the extension to get the 2". My wife can open the hood now.

Hi DGBPokes,
This has been a chronic problem on gas and diesel coaches from that time period. My 05 was also afflicted. Newmar has been aware of this problem and has a new part. They replaced my mechanism in 08 and the problem is fixed.

__________________
Gary
2005 Newmar KSDP 3910 + GMC ENVOY XUV 37K lbs Moving Down The Road
The Avatar Is Many Times Around The USANobody Knows Your Coach Like Somebody Who Owns One Just Like Yours

I have a similiar issue with Shurley, our '97 MACA. It's mounted just under the dash and I feel like I'm going to pull off a large chunk of the dash because it's so hard to pull. It only pulls out approx 1"-2", but it's enough to open it.
Any idea on how to lube the cable? I can get lube into/onto the latch mechanism, but not sure if I can get lube into the cable itself. Also, what type of lube?

There is to much slack in the cable and it just bends the line to release when you pull the handle.
Open the hood by reaching up with your fingers feeling for release wire to latch, pull down with finger and hood will release.
You may have to push wire up over latching pin to get wire from behind it.
Have use this method since I owned my coach, has nothing to do with chassis have to do same on Ford chassis also.
You may be able to tie off the pull wire jacket housing to a point to the right sidewall under hood but eventually it will pull loose also.
Finger release has worked for me for years, you may have to practice but is easy once you know how.

On my DP I had to shorten the metal thing between the cables, as it appears it had stretched to the point where the distal (farther than the proximal, closer) cable could not do it - you have to crawl behing the Onan, on my model - Will contact Newmar to get their replacement part -

There is to much slack in the cable and it just bends the line to release when you pull the handle. Open the hood by reaching up with your fingers feeling for release wire to latch, pull down with finger and hood will release. You may have to push wire up over latching pin to get wire from behind it. Have use this method since I owned my coach, has nothing to do with chassis have to do same on Ford chassis also. You may be able to tie off the pull wire jacket housing to a point to the right sidewall under hood but eventually it will pull loose also. Finger release has worked for me for years, you may have to practice but is easy once you know how.

Your comments on Newmar are always head and shoulders above most others. I went to the rig today, inserted my hand, and felt the cable, pulled on it. Turns out the cable is loose and not connected to anything. Must have come out of the hole, or the bracket broke. Any suggestions now?

DBGPokes, I believe there is some kind of metal crimp stop that should be on end of wire and in a slot of latch release.
Pulling to hard on T release handle may have slipped metal crimp off release wire.
After feeding wire through latch release there may be a crimp that can be attached to wire and screwed tight on wire, never run into that situation.

There is to much slack in the cable and it just bends the line to release when you pull the handle.
Open the hood by reaching up with your fingers feeling for release wire to latch, pull down with finger and hood will release.
You may have to push wire up over latching pin to get wire from behind it.
Have use this method since I owned my coach, has nothing to do with chassis have to do same on Ford chassis also.
You may be able to tie off the pull wire jacket housing to a point to the right sidewall under hood but eventually it will pull loose also.
Finger release has worked for me for years, you may have to practice but is easy once you know how.

'007' - your comment deals with front engines, I believe as it is impossible to access the metal piece behind the Onan if you do not crawl under for servicing - Thanks

DBGPokes, I believe there is some kind of metal crimp stop that should be on end of wire and in a slot of latch release. Pulling to hard on T release handle may have slipped metal crimp off release wire. After feeding wire through latch release there may be a crimp that can be attached to wire and screwed tight on wire, never run into that situation.

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The swedged end piece on the cable is still attached to the cable. And totally free from where is was attached. I can feel the mechanism,and have pushed and pulled on everything I can feel, as much as I can, but not being able to see It to determine which part is suppose to move in what direction is a major problem.