What Tom Cooked

I have a few favorite methods of seasoning tuna for grilling. Several come from my beloved chef Pierre Franey's classic book Cuisine Rapide. One version uses grated ginger, paprika, cumin and lemon juice. Another with thyme, garlic, lemon juice and rind is drizzled with melted butter and the marinade.

My grandparents owned a deli on Long Island in the late 1940's or early 50's I think. Grandma's potato salad was a classic and loved by customers and our family alike. The two keys to that recipe were sliced potatoes, I rarely see that anymore, and a healthy dose of celery salt. So I grew up loving that taste.

This classic slaw draws on the celery theme, using both celery and celery seed.

I find it important to slice the cabbages by hand, using a large chef's knife. This results in slightly larger slices of cabbage than in most slaws, creating a little more firmness and crunch.

Also, the use of mayo and sour cream is a great combination, here and in chicken and potato salads.

Serves a medium sized crowd

2 celery stalks, chopped in 3 pieces

1 apple, preferably Granny Smith

1 yellow bell pepper

1/3 cup rice wine vinegar (not seasoned)

2 tablespoons sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons celery seed

1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon onion powder (I rarely use these powdered ingredients, but they work here and are essential for my Red Beans and Rice)

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 cups mayonnaise

1/2 cup sour cream

1 head green cabbage

1/2 head purple cabbage

2 carrots,shredded

1. Chop the celery, pepper and apple in a food processor to create a finely chopped mix.

2. Combine all the dry ingredients and vegetables in a small bowl. Allow them to sit for 10 to 15
minutes.

3. Add the mayo and sour cream to the small bowl and refrigerate for 1 hour.

4. Cut the green cabbage into 1/8's then slice thinly by hand. However, the cabbage shreds should be larger than you normally see. Cut half the purple cabbage in the same manner.

5. Dress the cabbages and carrot with two-thirds of the dressing. And more to your taste. As with nearly all slaws, it's better after a few hours or the next day.

This is one of the
best dishes I've made in the past year or two, possibly the very best in terms
of flavor. I've served it over small pasta shapes, but it is likely best over
polenta, either loose or grilled in cakes. It is very rich, so stretches to more
servings than one would expect.

What makes this recipe so good? Anything with short ribs is pretty darn
good. This recipe creates several
distinct rich flavors - meat, vegetable, wine, herb - which all present
themselves in the final dish.

Cooking tip: Scrape down the
sides of your Dutch oven or roasting pan during and at the end of cooking. The browned coating on the edges is super
concentrated flavor that can be returned to the cooking liquid.

Great technique on the salmon from this Food52 pairing (www.food52.com). Scraping moisture from fish skin with the blade of a chef's knife is a technique Thomas Keller mentions in The French Laundry Cookbook. Along with using high heat, this is a foolproof way to cook meaty fishes.

The. cabbage dish is one that even cabbage-averse eaters will enjoy. Technique is again a key to make this dish work. Add the cabbage to the pan of bacon and leek in three successive batches to have a blend of soft, medium and slightly crispy textures.