ATC

Rating

Description

Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC provides lightweight and durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. This classic design features a large surface area that dissipates heat when lowering or rappelling, and the smooth-handling geometry accommodates rope sizes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm. The ATC can now be ordered in specific colors.

Unique, smooth-handling geometry
Minimalist design is durable in all conditions
Large surface area dissipates heat when lowering or rappelling
Handles ropes from 7.7 to 11 mm
Available for order by individual color

Retail price

US$ 17.95

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Device Type

Tube

The most commonly used belay type also called an “ATC” or “tuber.” Other than a distinction between other belay device types, “Tube” is a rarely used term, most climbers just assume you're talking about this style when they refer to your "belay device."

Figure 8

Mostly used in rescue, canyoneering, tactical, work safety, or by old school climbers and rappellers. One reason they went out of popularity with recreational climbers is because they tend to create twists in the rope.

Brake Assist

These devices assist in stopping the rope when a climber falls or hangs on the rope.

Often referred to as “auto-blocking” but that’s not the official terminology because no belay device should be assumed to work automatically by itself, even if it feels like it does (or does most the time).

Plate

When simplicity is a must, or you started climbing before Tubers were the norm. Bonus: They tend to be very light weight.

Descender

For rappelling, not for belaying a lead climber or top-roping.

Tube

Weight (g)

Weight (g)

In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

60 g

Guide Mode

Guide Mode

This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. When your partner falls or rests, the weight of the climber is held mostly by the anchor and the belay device.

Tubers and Plates

When belaying in "guide mode," the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking. During a fall, the climbing rope pinches the slack rope, completely stopping the movement of either rope. A common guide mode setup shown below.

Mechanical Brake Assist Devices

There is no difference in the functionality of the device. A brake-hand should always be on the rope to ensure the climber is caught in the case of a fall. A common guide mode setup shown below.

Where guide mode is used

multi-pitch sport or trad climbs

single-pitch where you need to bring up a follower (say for a walk-off)

Learn More

Teeth

Teeth are only seen on tube devices. They add friction that helps grip the rope for more belaying control.

This is helpful for belaying heavier climbers. Teeth are becoming standard on new tube devices.

Worth Considering

Teeth do wear out. You can limit wear by rappelling on the side without teeth (if you don’t need the extra friction). Once they’re worn, you’ll still have a usable belay device, just less friction.

No

Belay Brake Assist

Belay Brake Assist

This is when the belay device significantly reduces the amount of holding power the belayer must exert to stop a fall and hold a climber.

This is also called "assisted-braking" as the device must hold a significant amount of the climber’s weight; this term does not include friction-adding "teeth" found on some tube style belay devices.

Confusingly referred to as “auto-blocking” or “auto-locking” these terms wrongly imply the device will always, automatically, stop a fall or hold a climber even if the belayer/rappeller is hands-free. These devices are not meant to be used without a hand on the braking side of the rope; the belayers/rapppeller brake hand should always be on the brake rope.

Worth Considering

Most of the mechanical brake assist devices only hold a single strand of rope and are not capable of double-strand rappelling (the most common method of rappel).

No

Rope Range (mm)

Rope Range (mm)

The range of rope diameters, in millimeters, that the manufacturer/brand specifies can safely be used.

This is the best case scenario and does not necessarily take into consideration that certified ropes have a tolerance of +/- .3 mm.

Recently, manufacturers have started to add an "optimized" rope range -- this is the range that will result in the nicest handling of the belay device.

7.7 mm - 11.0 mm ­­­

Certification

Certifications

The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.

To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.

AVG RATING

Smooth but a little limiting

I'm always looking for that piece of gear that'll help me climb better.

After loosing my ATC Guide, I've been using a borrowed std ATC for the last couple of months. When climbing single pitch routes, with relatively light partners, the std ATC is great. Super smooth pay-out, lowering, and double-rope rappelling.

The problems with this belay device come into play when I'm climbing multi-pitch routes or with climbers that are heavier than I am (unfortunately, this is hard to find). The lack of teeth does limit how heavy of a climber you can belay, and if you're on the heavier side of spectrum, it might be unnerving to repel with if the ropes are skinny. But if you're looking for an inexpensive, simple belay device that'll last you years, and you know you'll only be climbing with the ladies or the dudes that look like ladies, this device will be fine. Nothing special, but works well for what it was made to do.

Beginners Only

I belayed on this for years with no problem. Until there was one. He was about 75 pounds heavier than me, and while he wasn't falling, he wasn't stopped either. Without teeth I was only able to perform a slow, controlled descent (~2ft/min). Safe, but no longer good enough for my needs.

It works, but I don't recommend teeth-less ATCs to friends anymore. I still keep mine as a spare. Better than no device!