Re: * Trevor's 2010 Audi A4 Trunk Build. Sundown. Fi.*

Put the last 2 spacers in and tightened things up as much as I could. Its very hard to get to the top two screws to fasten the rack in place. Takes quite a bit of patience with a wrench and awkward angles. Hooking everything up once the project db adapters get here. Happy Easter everyone!

I have not seen instructions for the side panels:
1.) Remove the opening skid plate (this is the hardest part and will feel like you're about to break it)
- there should be four clips on the top and two guides on the fwd side
- pry under one of the side edges to get a grip and then pull straight up
2.) Remove the backseat filler panels (these are the pieces between the seat backs and the door seals)
- locate and remove attaching bolt under the corner of seat bottom (this is kind of a PITA to push down on the cushion while trying to remove the bolt)
- lift bottom of filler out from under the seat bottom and then pull panel down and out, disengaging two clips and clearing top from C-pillar
3.) Remove the sides
- remove the four tie-down plates (D-rings) from the trunk floor
- starting in the back, pull inboard to release three clips each side
- there are two plastic pins holding the sides to the rear deck, pull these straight down
- fold rear seats down (if you do not have folding seats, you may have to remove your seat back)
- pull side panel inboard working it our from under the rear deck trim and rear seat crevices wires etc"

I have not seen instructions for the side panels:
1.) Remove the opening skid plate (this is the hardest part and will feel like you're about to break it)
- there should be four clips on the top and two guides on the fwd side
- pry under one of the side edges to get a grip and then pull straight up
2.) Remove the backseat filler panels (these are the pieces between the seat backs and the door seals)
- locate and remove attaching bolt under the corner of seat bottom (this is kind of a PITA to push down on the cushion while trying to remove the bolt)
- lift bottom of filler out from under the seat bottom and then pull panel down and out, disengaging two clips and clearing top from C-pillar
3.) Remove the sides
- remove the four tie-down plates (D-rings) from the trunk floor
- starting in the back, pull inboard to release three clips each side
- there are two plastic pins holding the sides to the rear deck, pull these straight down
- fold rear seats down (if you do not have folding seats, you may have to remove your seat back)
- pull side panel inboard working it our from under the rear deck trim and rear seat crevices wires etc"

Re: * Trevor's 2010 Audi A4 Trunk Build. Sundown. Fi.*

I'm sure you'll be pleased with the reducers, I think their custom work adds a really nice touch too. And Don may take a while, but the box sure does come out nice. Are you going carpeted or textured paint or high gloss finish?

Re: * Trevor's 2010 Audi A4 Trunk Build. Sundown. Fi.*

Originally Posted by TheUnderFighter

I'm sure you'll be pleased with the reducers, I think their custom work adds a really nice touch too. And Don may take a while, but the box sure does come out nice. Are you going carpeted or textured paint or high gloss finish?

Yeah im excited to see the reducers. The box is going to be black carpet with a silver painted port. It will match the silver logo dustcap on the Q

Re: * Trevor's 2010 Audi A4 Trunk Build. Sundown. Fi.*

So yesterday I got my reducers in from project db and they worked absolutely perfect. Not only that but they look nice too . Electrical tape had the exact same width so I just cut two pieces and slapped them on the insides just in case it ever loosens up and I don't notice. Since I had the amp rack out at the time I also decided to black out the floor. I had a layer of duct tape over the yellow foam and then put electrical tape on top of that. Came out pretty nice and now your not staring at an ugly floor when showing off the amp. The 1/0ga fit nice and snug with the reducers and amp rack in place. Going to the hardware store soon to get a small wrench to fit the bolts that go on to hold the amp rack in place since it is in an awkward place and I cant use my socket wrench. RCA, Speaker wire, and Remote wire are also plugged in so all that's left is connecting the sub. Unfortunately if you don't know already UPS totally F'ed up my package from Fi. When I saw the box at my door it was cracked and a corner was concaved in. I was told by someone who used to work for Fi that it must have dropped off the belt from at least 20ft. The basket is completely bent pulling and ruining the surround as well. There is also a gash in the magnet. Even handicapped and all the sub still looks beastly and weights at 47lbs. Talked with Scott of Fi and he said they are already building my replacement. Will be sending back the sub as soon as we get things worked out with UPS. Although that was a bummer I still got my amp completely set up and love how it turned out. Funny story, I couldn't figure out why my amps blue power light wasn't turning on for about 45 minutes then finally realized I never put the fuse in on the in-line holder for safety precautions. I used a 250a fuse but will be using a 100a fuse so that it will pop before the 40ax3 would give on the amp. Should have them in a week or so. Anyways got the blue power light on after I added the fuse and everything seemed to work properly.