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master class continued Mortise the case Set the bit depth. Kenney uses the hinge leaf itself for the most precise reference when setting the router bit’s cutting depth. Rout cautiously, then clean up. The ⁄ -in.-dia. bit allows room to maneuver the router, but use a slow, gentle motion to guide the cut. separates the two hinge leaves (the washer can be too small to handle easily). In this way, the gaps on the sides will match the gap created by the hinge itself at the top and bottom. Online Extra Put the shim against the cabinet side and push the hinge leaf—backed with double-sided tape—against it. The leaf should be angled so that it roughly parallels the front of the case. Now adjust the position of the leaf backward or forward so that the hinge pin is centered over the front edge of the case, and press the leaf into place. The hinge pin should sit half on and half off the cabinet so the door won’t bind. With the leaf secure, use a marking knife to scribe its outline on the cabinet top, and then remove the hinge. For the doors to hang true and close flush, it’s important to achieve a matching layout for the remaining mortises. To help do this, set a combination square off the back line you just scribed to capture the crucial distance between this line and the front of the case. You can then use the setting for laying out the other mortises at the same depth from the cabinet front, To watch Kenney mortise and mount knife hinges on a curved door, go to FineWoodworking.com/ extras. once again using the tape-and-scribe method. Once you’ve laid out the other mortises in the case, disassemble the cabinet and set up a trim router to remove the waste. I use a ⁄ -in.-dia. solid carbide spiral downcut bit. To set the bit’s cutting depth, I turn over the router, put the hinge on its base, and then adjust the height 80 FINE WOODWORKING Chisel to the line. Use a narrow chisel to square the end of the mortise (left). Then use a wide chisel to pare to the knife lines (below).