First discharge the CRT, remove the anode cup, then unplug the AC cable. Next, unplug the neck board, cut the ground wire from the neck board to the wire around the tube (dag ground wire) AT the neck board. Unplug the 4 yoke wires at the yoke.

The yoke wires are color coded AND the connections are labeled. Make sure the wires line up to the markings on the board. If not, the wires will need to be put back the way they were found as they may have been flipped for proper image orientation.

Remove the neck board from the CRT, unplug the degaussing coil, then unscrew the flyback from the monitor.

At this point there are 2 things remaining: The screws holding the chassis in place and the silly width coil mounted off the chassis. Take a soldering iron and unsolder the wires to the width coil. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIDTH COIL FROM ITS MOUNT. The cardboard tube WILL disintegrate. On the left side of the chassis will be 2 1/4" headed sheet metal screws. Remove those and the chassis will come out from the monitor frame.

Once the chassis out the 4 screws holding the plastic PC board mounts can be removed to take the chassis off the metal tray. Pull the plastic PC board mounts off the board to get it ready for cap kit installation.

A K4600 monitor has 2 different adjustments for screen "brightness." If the colors are dark then adjust the Screen control on the neckboard.

If the colors are bright but the background items are dim the Black Level control needs adjusting. This is the small trimpot on the video input daughtercard. Adjust it slightly clockwise then check the picture. It doesn't take much to adjust it.

If neither of these work then check the B+ levels, cap the monitor, and check the CRT itself to see if it has weak emissions. If the CRT is weak then hit it with a rejuvenator as a last step to revive the monitor.

Turn game on and the monitor will not always power up. Power cycle it a few times then it will come on. Chassis had already been capped. Checked the board for any cracks, repaired several bad solder joints, and tested. No cracks were found.

Two surface mount coils and the power connector were torn off the inverter board and were in a ziplock bag. The plating was missing from the torn parts. Used a Dremel tool on the parts to reveal shiny metal, tinned the parts, and reinstalled them on the board. Replaced a bad C5103 transistor and 2 blown mylar capacitors. Replaced bad 4A fuse on the inverter board. Replaced 3 bad 22uf, 1 bad 10uf, and 1 bad 100uf capacitor on the CPU board. Tested.

If you find this site helpful, Please Consider Making a small donation to help defray the cost of hosting and bandwidth.

Newlifegames.com  Newlifegames.net  Newlifegames.org  New Life Games  NewLifeGames  NLG  We Bring new Life to old Games  1-888-NLG-SLOTS  Are all Copyright and Trademarks of New Life Games LLC 1992 - 2017

FAIR USE NOTICE:

This site contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We make such material available in an effort to advance awareness and understanding of the issues involved. We believe this constitutes a fair use of any such copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is distributed without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in receiving the included information for research and educational purposes.