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The well water needs to be cleaned up with a 100 mesh strainer before you allow it to get into the sprinkler system. Even if it means more work for you cleaning strainer screens, you take on the extra work in order to have a functioning system.

entire system

Pertinant issues:
1. Sprinklers leak (one area has all 3 sprinklers squirting water, not leaking...this area valve sounds like it isn't shutting completely off). In all other areas, most of the sprinklers leak after shut off.
2. Shutting off the controller (Toro TMC 212) does not stop the leak/flow; turning off the main on/off valve is the only way to stop the flow
3. Controller (computer) was replaced last year and worked well. This year I have had to reset the controller to default and start over several times. This has helped some scheduling problems.
4. Four (out of 5) of the areas have brand new irritrol valves (replaced this month) and most areas have brand new sprinkler heads.
5. This is California and our wells are marginally adequate. Much grit in the water and I have about 20' left in the well until having to lower the pump for the last time before drilling a new well
6. I am at 'wits end' trying to make this system function properly

Well damn now it appears that the valve that is not responding to the controller might just have a stripped solenoid. At least I HOPE it is stripped because if it isn't the solenoid, it is the valve. But on a lighter note at least my lawn was automatically watered tonight, as per the schedule. Holla!

O rings were there and have been removed, but controller is still not controlling. I've been working night shift for the past couple days so haven't had much opportunity to get out & mess around but am off this weekend and will see what I can do. Basically still in troubleshooting mode.

Ah HA! Must be on the right track. One zone is working now. The other still isn't recognizing the controller so I will troubleshoot the electrical next. But the end is near and I thank everyone for the help.

O rings were there and have been removed, but controller is still not controlling. I've been working night shift for the past couple days so haven't had much opportunity to get out & mess around but am off this weekend and will see what I can do. Basically still in troubleshooting mode.

Old Richdel valves have an O-ring in the area where the solenoid threads in. New Irritrol (the successor to Richdel) valves don't have that O-ring, because the solenoid was modified to include a built-in O-ring. When one of the newer solenoids gets installed on an old Richdel valve, the old O-ring has to be removed, so that everything goes together correctly.

Old Richdel valves have an O-ring in the area where the solenoid threads in. New Irritrol (the successor to Richdel) valves don't have that O-ring, because the solenoid was modified to include a built-in O-ring. When one of the newer solenoids gets installed on an old Richdel valve, the old O-ring has to be removed, so that everything goes together correctly.

I'm not sure of the make & model of solenoid... I looked at several @ Home Depot and picked them because the mentioned Richdel. My son actually installed them & threw out the packaging so I can't reference back.

As for the bleeder screws, they do not turn the water off and on, the water just flows on through now. I am not operating with the flow control, I am using the main valve that is upstream from the sprinkler valves.

What do you mean they only work with the main shut off?
Even with the wrong solenoids you should be able to turn the valve on with the bleeder screw.
Try turning the bleeder screw more. Even take it out.
Are you calling the flow control the main shut off? The bleeder wont work if the flow control is off.
If the flow control is on and you still can't operate them with the bleeder then the diaphragms are bad.
I had a problem with the new style solenoids fitting onto the old richdel 713. They wouldn't screw on more than a thread or two. I ruined two brand new solenoids trying to get them to fit. I had to use the old style solenoid for it to work.

I suspect the diaphragms are bad and you're opening the valve via the flow control. If that's the case you can get them to work with new diaphragms or replace the old valves. Provided the wiring's ok.