That's good news for the fork but not the crank unless that adapter has threads in it. I like my octalink BB's, the last Bottom Bracket since the BB#'s came out that didn't self destruct under me. My wife;s old original Gary Fisher had a press in bottom bracket and a 1-1/4" headset that everyone laughed at. Now it is commonplace, yet a little refined.

Yea, that is basically what it is, like the old gary fishers, the bearings just press into the frame. Then you slide the axle from your 2 piece cranks through. There is no way to make an octalink work.
This is if the Rig frame is a bb90 frame, I can't remember if it is, I know the paragon and the superfly are. The X-cal and cobia have regular threaded bottom bracket shells.

I've been getting to know the Vaya a bit over the last month, not as much as I should have, but I kept getting sidetracked by work, weather, family, beer, and general laziness. I've taken it on everything from smooth, wide-shouldered asphalt to busted up, narrow two lane asphalt to gravel roads to paved paths to (briefly) singletrack trails. All this from pedaling right out of my driveway!

Probably my favorite thing about this bike is the ability to turn down any road and not worry about what I'll encounter. Before, on my road bike, I'd take one of maybe three general loops and either expand it or shorten it depending on how far I wanted to go. Now, using gravel roads or paved trails as connectors, I have a much wider range for ride routing. Not that I couldn't have ridden these things on my road bike, but they wouldn't be very enjoyable.

The Vaya is not a mountain bike. At least not with the stock gearing. It could take smooth flowing trails ok, but once it gets technical or steep, it's out it's element. It's also a little slow handling because of the stretched out geometry, but the Vaya does, however, love gravel roads. On my road bike, on gravel, I'd be stressed out, preloading my pedals so I could unclip as soon I felt the front starting to wash out. With the Vaya you can just motor along, it's actually probably more fun on gravel than on pavement.

The Vaya is also very comfortable. Before, my lower back would start nagging about an hour into a ride. Nothing like that so far on rides nearing two hours, except when I was wearing a backpack on one ride.

I'm getting used to the Sram shifters, but they still don't always downshift precisely, it could be they need a some adjusting with @ 180 miles on so far.

I'd like to put on some slightly narrower tires, but I don't want to lose any of the stability on gravel. These tires are labeled 28x1.6, Salsa's website lists them as 700x42, I'm thinking about going with something like 700x35. Any thoughts on this?

I'd like to put on some slightly narrower tires, but I don't want to lose any of the stability on gravel. These tires are labeled 28x1.6, Salsa's website lists them as 700x42, I'm thinking about going with something like 700x35. Any thoughts on this?

my experience with wide 700c tires is, they vary a lot. I had some michelin 700x40's that flat out wouldn't fit in my newer frame, yet some tom slick 700x38 (no longer available) that fit easily, and I just replaced those tom slick with some specialized nimbus 700x38 that are much wider but just barely fit.

look on the tire for a molded "42-622" or similar. thats the tires *real* ISO size (622mm is the actual bead size of a 700c wheel). Those Michelin 700x40 said they were 42-622 and not 40-622

I think the next size below 38 thats common is 32, i haven't seen many 35's. then 28, then skinny roadbike sizes like 25, 23, 21.

my experience with wide 700c tires is, they vary a lot. I had some michelin 700x40's that flat out wouldn't fit in my newer frame, yet some tom slick 700x38 (no longer available) that fit easily, and I just replaced those tom slick with some specialized nimbus 700x38 that are much wider but just barely fit.

look on the tire for a molded "42-622" or similar. thats the tires *real* ISO size (622mm is the actual bead size of a 700c wheel). Those Michelin 700x40 said they were 42-622 and not 40-622

I think the next size below 38 thats common is 32, i haven't seen many 35's. then 28, then skinny roadbike sizes like 25, 23, 21.

Whomever does their tire sizing/listing needs to lay off
I just browsed a couple other tires they offer, and that same 37-622 is also a 700x35 on another model. I mean, WTF? Seriously, this kind of shit is aggravating as hell.

Whomever does their tire sizing/listing needs to lay off
I just browsed a couple other tires they offer, and that same 37-622 is also a 700x35 on another model. I mean, WTF? Seriously, this kind of shit is aggravating as hell.

like I said, I had some Michelin City "700x40" that were 42-622 which is 700x42. wtf?!?

I do wish bike tire makers would give numbers like actual diameter, and sidewall width at a nominal pressure on a nominal rim width suited to the size tire, the way car tire makers have to legally.

Whomever does their tire sizing/listing needs to lay off
I just browsed a couple other tires they offer, and that same 37-622 is also a 700x35 on another model. I mean, WTF? Seriously, this kind of shit is aggravating as hell.

If you don't mind making your way up to the cities, we have some VERY knowledgeable people in the local shops. The Hub, or Freewheel, to name a couple.... Pick their brain for actual sizes of tires.

does anyone have any advice on straightening a rear steel dropout? I have one that is slightly tweaked and won't allow the wheel to sit straight. I know there's a Park deraileur alignment tool, but I don't want to throw down a few hundred just for a one off issue.

the local bike shops sell a lot in the $3k and up range and can't be bothered to help.

does anyone have any advice on straightening a rear steel dropout? I have one that is slightly tweaked and won't allow the wheel to sit straight. I know there's a Park deraileur alignment tool, but I don't want to throw down a few hundred just for a one off issue.

the local bike shops sell a lot in the $3k and up range and can't be bothered to help.

does anyone have any advice on straightening a rear steel dropout? I have one that is slightly tweaked and won't allow the wheel to sit straight. I know there's a Park deraileur alignment tool, but I don't want to throw down a few hundred just for a one off issue.

the local bike shops sell a lot in the $3k and up range and can't be bothered to help.

Thanks for any info!

I've had minor success with my bench vise and some soft jaw covers, or sandwiched between thin pieces of soft wood to protect the frame. Just have to know your strength, use a little leverage in the right place and it should come out fine. I would not do it on an aluminum frame, but steel is much easier to work with.