Cold Air Intake issue with throttle body spacer

i just installed a k&n cold air intake with an Airaid throttle body spacer and it seems the TBS causes the intake tube not to line up correctly because of the additional space added to the throttle body. I was still able to get the clamps on with a decent seal... i think... but i get a whistle from the filter box area and the check engine light came on after driving about 15 miles. The tube isnt lined up perfectly with the throttle body/filter box but it is inside the boots and clamped tight.

i just installed a k&n cold air intake with an Airaid throttle body spacer and it seems the TBS causes the intake tube not to line up correctly because of the additional space added to the throttle body. I was still able to get the clamps on with a decent seal... i think... but i get a whistle from the filter box area and the check engine light came on after driving about 15 miles. The tube isnt lined up perfectly with the throttle body/filter box but it is inside the boots and clamped tight.

Any ideas.... although i think ill just send it back to amazon...

2011 silverado, 5.3L

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Sorry to say, but remove the aftermarket throttle body spacer, As they Do nothing Regarding Performance Gains on the Late Model Vortec Engine's......

I have read in other articles a aftermarket throttle spacer added no gains on a Vortec. I would take the others advise and install the stock trottle spacer with the CAI, In an older Truckin Mag. article about K&N they drove 100mi before the trucks electronics adjusted with the new intake.

First thing, ditch the spacer. Second, think of it this way; If you put an air intake system on your truck in order to increase and smooth air flow. If it's not lined up you've got impeded airflow. The KnN sticker does not increase Hp, I'm not tying to sound sarcastic. It's just I see a lot of people getting ripped off with what is more often called the KnN, Volant etc, dirt straw. The Hp gains on the box are BS, except when coupled with and exhaust and a proper tune. Thinking in the terms, "If it sounds to good to be true" If all it took to get 12 to 20 more Hp out of a motor is clamp on a piece of straight pipe with a high flow filter; Don't you think all car manufacturers would have one on every car? K&N puts a Hp/torque graph on the box, this is eye candy BS as well.

You will never see a K&N, Volant etc commercial or youtube clip with your truck on a rolling Dyno and a before and after video clip showing a 12 to 20 Hp gain. Why? Because your new intake will never deliver 12 to 20 hp without the motor trying to suck in all that easy to breath air. Your motor wouldn't know what to do with that optimal combustion condition without a tuned ECM and MAF program that tells it to. A motor tuned for economy will stay that way regardless of the intake snorkel.

VVT motors do make them slightly more adaptive, however that said. You can get just as much Hp using higher grade gas. I'm not trying to come off as the snotty know it all mechanic; I'm just bent over company's selling this magic bullet that is going to turn your car or truck into a sport edition over stock and improve mileage bla, bla. I'm kind of fed up with the aftermarket shell game as you can tell. There are some good companies making good products that work, there is something you must read between the lines. When you see "results may vary", this usually means do your homework, save your money and do a complete build up when you have all the parts on your shopping list together.

Thanks for all the quick responses. This morning I removed the TBS, the whistle went away and it sounds good when I get on the gas. The check engine light came on again but maybe it will go away after 100 miles or so. If not, then I'll put on the stock intake tube with a high flow filter until I'm ready for exhaust then get it tuned. I plan to put on Flowmaster Force II exhaust in the future.

If the light is on, have the code read. I will bet it's a code for running lean. It's common with the CAI if you don't get things sealed correctly. There's a possibilty unmetered air is entering the intake system after the MAF sensor. If that's the case, take a look at the install and make sure you have it lined up correctly and clamped tight. There's no reason to scrap the CAI.

If the light is on, have the code read. I will bet it's a code for running lean. It's common with the CAI if you don't get things sealed correctly. There's a possibilty unmetered air is entering the intake system after the MAF sensor. If that's the case, take a look at the install and make sure you have it lined up correctly and clamped tight. There's no reason to scrap the CAI.

After checking the install, reset the code and see if it comes back.

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The connections seem good to go. The light comes on after 15 minutes of driving every time. I've read in other forums that it should go away after driving about 100 miles.

Well I've driven over 100 miles and the stupid light is still on. I assume I need to see what code it's throwing up and look into getting a new mass airflow system and an exhaust, then get it tuned??? If only money grew on trees...