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Firstly have gone single Savox steering servo. Quicker response and more torque.

Decided to add an ESC Extension Piece thereby making it easy to Use Field Programmer and change settings on the fly depending on what surface I am driving/bashing on!

Found a "novel" way to prevent rear Aluminium Skid Plate from continually bending inwards on hard rear landings. May not look the prettiest, but what started out as a temporary solution has actually worked very well. Go figure!

Yeah man...glad the cork is working out...sweat idea . You are going to have to stock up on champagne now .

LOL. Really was surprised by how successful the cork has been. Even better than the piece of metal tube I tried previously. Just goes to show that sometimes the simplest solution works out the best hey.

So this is what happens when your back wheels clip the fence you are trying to clear. Of course this was still on the warm up so had not got the video camera involved yet. Decided to call it a day after this as did not want to risk the internals on another attempt without the body on.

At least the Temps are still fine LOL.

Check out MITCH316 ERBE REBUILD Thread for the caught on camera version of what I attempted.

Looks like fun! Should put one jump on the other and get some more air!

Yeah it was. Already making plans to get more Air from the Ramps. Problem with only having 1 though is getting it lined up as the Maxx & Revo are not much narrower than a single ramp and when you barreling towards it on 6s it makes it very tricky to line up on only one ramp, hence the use of 2 side by side.

^^^. Thanks. Forgot about that Vid. That was when I had just switched from ALL Aluminium set-up to the RPM Arms & Tru Tracs. Made the truck handle differently off the ramps. Compared to the latest Vid we did (Post #52 above) I can see the difference in my Air Control now that I am used to the RPM arms.

So my motor started making a "weird" noise the other day and after some investigation it appeared that the noise was emanating from the rear motor bearing. So instead of replacing the motor I decided to go the motor rebuild route.

Had heard that it was tricky to replace the back motor bearing and when I posted a separate thread about this there was not too much in the way of useful replies so I thought I would document the process here for others future reference.

Step 1: Disconnect Motor and Remove Front Face Plate:-

Step 2: Remove Shaft from Motor Can using your hand. Be sure to get a good grip as the Can will be trying to pull the Shaft back in.

Step 3: To remove the back bearing, simply take a Flat Head Screwdriver of appropriate width to fit inside the Bearing Hole, but NOT all the way throught it and push from the back outside end of the Motor Can. The bearing should just pop out.

Step 4: Reassembly the new back bearing from the rebuild kit again using the flat head screwdriver method. Make sure that you properly insert the bearing all the way in.

Step 5: Re-insert the new Motor Shaft from Rebuild kit. Be careful as again this gets "sucked" in to the Can with some gusto due to the magnets. Remember to put the spacers in their correct positions, long spacer on back end and short spacer on front end.

Step 6: Bolt Front Motor Cover on again and your rebuilt motor is ready to go.

Will give the Re-built motor a run this weekend and report back on its performance.

great write up!!! excellent pics there. Thats pretty much what i did to my motors but with a hole punch but i did use a screw driver but not like you did good idea there. When my motor needs new bearings i think i am going to get ceramics if i can find them perhaps. Please do post back on the performance when you run it. glad it worked so far good.

Got an itchy trigger finger waiting to test it out. Have not had chance yet with the wild weather and all the rain and water everywhere. Now if it was a Spartan I could have tested it twice over already LOL.

So finally got around to testing the refurbed motor. Nothing major, just doing some back flips which I thought would be a quick, easy and representative test for it. All seems good and it sounds again like it did when I first got it. The Noise I had is gone, so must I guess have been the rear motor bearing.

So decided it was time to retire my faithful stock chassis that has taken more than its fair share of knocks and tumbles. Besides, I have big plans for it (watch this space)!

Here is my Emaxx with its new Rit Dyed Black Chassis. Still planning to dye the stock grey Spur Gear Covers Black too, just waiting on the Dye. Think it is coming out nicely even if I may say so myself