I'm an inventor / maker / designer based in the Bay Area. My background is in residential architecture, film set design, animatronics, media arts, exhibit design, and electronics. I use digital design and fabrication to create furniture, household products, toys, and art.
Want to buy one of my designs or commission one? Please check out my portfolio: http://jonatron.portfoliobox.net

Any time you’re finishing anything, you need to start with a smooth surface, so that part of this instructable remains the same. Once you’ve got a sanded surface, I’d recommend using Montana brand or Montana Black brand acrylic spray paint.That’s the paint I used for the colored sculptures in the tile pictures. It’s got a smooth matte finish and the color choices are second to none.The general rule is sand > paint > sand > paint > sand > paint... keep stepping down the grit of the sandpaper until you’re using 400 grit wet sandpaper, and your results will be flawless.

Fusion definitely has a free hobbyist / startup license. Install it for a free trial, then when the 30 day counter is up you’ll have the option to select a free 1 year startup license. You’ll be prompted to renew it yearly.

This is all done through the script, the Data Panel shouldn't even come into play. Did you follow the instructions?

Take a look at Menneset's solution below.

This particular image wouldn't give you the desired result because the script assigns height based on brightness. The darkest part of this picture is the text, so that will translate to a deep pit, and the lightest pixels are the cloudy parts in the water, so that will be the highest point.What you really need is what's called a height map that's less than 300PX X 300PX. Here's a link to some examples: http://casual-effects.com/g3d/G3D10/build/data/heightfield/

For what you're trying to do, Fusion 360 is definitely the wrong tool. This is something you could do in Maya, 3D Max, Blender, or a number of other programs intended for motion graphics and animation.With many of those programs, you can do 2D - 3D translation as a tool within the program or with a plug-in. I haven't used Maya in almost 10 years now, so I'm the wrong guy to ask!

I'm glad you like it! The bottleneck here is resolution. The more pixels the picture has, the longer it takes to calculate. If you try and calculate an image that's much bigger than 300X300 at 72 DPI, it's going to take a LONG time to calculate.The other thing you've got to consider is that the more detail that's in the picture, the messier the 3D surface is likely to be. The script is just giving the surface a height at a point based on how bright that pixel is. More detail tends to give you weird results.

Dude, for sure! I love your channel and I’m honor that you’ve included my work so many times.

I haven’t tried it, but I honestly can’t think of a reason why it wouldn’t work. I doubt the Z axis relies in any significant way on gravity helping it out, and the bearings are snug on both sides of the tracks. The only issue would be that it would be a real pain to fixture the material upside-down. Every time you run a process for the first time, you have to watch it like a hawk to make sure it isn’t doing anything weird, and sometimes you have to pause it and add another hold-down point. I think it would mostly just be really inconvenient, but it would probably work.

I always design things that are going to be 3D with 3D software. Even if the design doesn't necessarily call for it (stacked 2D panels in this case), I like to be able to get a picture of what the finished product will look like before I start expending materials and time.

As NightHunter300 said below, you could have a reverse setting! Just make a c-shaped part on a post so it can swivel back and forth. The ends of the C push the reverse switch on either side with a brake cable, just like you did with the pedal.

I think this is the same model: Occer 10X42 High Power Monocular Telescope HD Dual Focus Scope, Waterproof Compact Monocular With BAK4 Multi-coated Zoom Lens, Low Night Vision for Hunting Bird Watching Camping Outdoor Sporting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075NZ72FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_CB0BAbC90VEVQThere are some subtle differences, but it look like it'll fit the design here.

I think this one is the same model: https://www.facebook.com/60SecondDocs/videos/1896274727352016/You'll need to cut off the clip that holds the lens cap on the end, but I think it'll fit the model as it's designed here.

Try adding some detail. where are the ports? Does it have sharp edges or are the edges rounded?

I'd say you're doing pretty good with them! They just take practice. The important part is that you understand how to use them and are able to control proportions, which you obviously do.

Not bad! Imagine how you might show that curved end in the 3D drawing-

Very good! Try using construction lines to control the geometry. When you look closely the back-right leg is distorted inward, the left armrest would show up past the chair back, and the front left leg would be visible. If you drew construction line cages around it, you'd be able to easily position these elements.

That's actually pretty good. Try to pay more attention to proportions (the red ring on the top has a consistent thickness and it's wider than shown in the drawing). Also, construction lines will help even though it's curved.

Remember, all the lines that are parallel on the object are parallel to each other on the drawing. The short edges, the long edges, etc.

You're getting the line weight concept right, the weight is just too heavy for the size of the drawing. If you use a thinner pen to outline the spatial edges it will look cleaner.

That's pretty good- very close to parallel and the proportions make sense. Try it again with the rounded edges and it'll be more realistic.

Nice bench! This particular design is too complex for a dimensioned layout, but you can print the PDF layouts at full scale at any print shop that does large format printing and use the technique I describe in this Instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/Digital-Fabricati...All you need is a drill and a jigsaw.

That's an automated response when an instructable doesn't have multiple steps. The Community Management team caught it and published it right away. Thanks for sharing it!

Yeah, it's hardly a one-day project!

REVISED MODEL BY EMPRICUS! He was kind enough to post a one-step instructable and share the revised files (based on Adam Savage's build) with us all. https://www.instructables.com/id/Blade-Runner-Optical-Viewer-Remix/

Yea, I used a laser cutter for the llenses. If you don't have access to one you could use the PDF template and score the outline with a hobby knife, then score and break straight lines around the curves and grind down what's left with a file until you get a smooth curve (that's how it's done with stained glass , for example.

I just did the math, and I think I could sell kits for around $250. The print alone is 40 hours with almost a whole spool of filament (about $30); the laser cutting is pretty quick but the acrylic is about another $4; the monocular is $15; the hardware comes out to about $3; the strap, foam, and rivets are another $2. Materials come to about $54, machine time comes to about $34, and there's about 4 hours of labor involved if I'm being generous. If you or anyone you know is still interested, please give me a shout and I'll set up a product on my online store and post a link here.