Best Bites: Whiskey Tango Foxtrot’s Buffalo Wings

Over the years, I’ve developed an affinity for wings of all styles—Buffalo, Asian, sticky. You name ’em, I’ve tried ’em. My devotion extends to the pork wings (yes, pork) at Ballpark’s seven-month-old Whiskey Tango Foxtrot. In truth, there’s nothing winged about these savory snacks. The appetizer, dreamed up by consulting chef Justin Brunson of Old Major and executed by chef Georgia Torres, is simply the eatery’s take on the pub standard: pork shanks, deep-fried to crispy perfection, then doused with a tangy, spicy, slightly smoky sauce made with Frank’s RedHot cayenne pepper sauce, brown sugar, butter, and chopped chipotle peppers. Garnished with sesame seeds and green onions and served with house-made blue cheese dressing, an order of five wings is big enough to share. But why would you?