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Electrical problem

I have a 2010 can am spyder rt-s with most the bells and whistles. My problem is with the switches that control the air ride, handle grip heaters, and the driving lights. They donít seem to have power to them. Do they all use the same fuse? And where is the fuse located? I have already checked all the fuses in the fuse panel and 3-4 inline fuses that I could find. I really could use a hand to get my bike back on the road.

Recheck the fuses individually with a DVOM. I've had fuses that look good but were actually bad. Then try swapping the relays that are in the same fuse block as the fuses. Look in Owners Manual to find the relay for those switches. You can probably get a new relay at any autoparts store, just take the bad one with you. Good luck.

Yeah. Everything fits for a blown fuse, F8, or bad load shedding relay, R5. If the horn doesn't work, it's the fuse. As mentioned, must be removed and tested. If the horn works make sure all relays are fully seated. You can test it by swapping with R4 or replace. Front fuse box. Labeling inside the cover.

Well, the earlier year RT's were not relayed. Not sure if they changed that design for the newer years. Some folks that have added after market horns have added a relay, and some haven't. The horn button seems to be able to handle the extra load with no issues. Best bet would be to just check your fuse / relay boxes and see if you have a horn relay in your F3.

That was one of the first things I did after bringing it home was to open the fuse boxes and check things out. There is a horn fuse, but no relay marked that its for the horn.
You are right; when in doubt - put a relay on it.

Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.

I removed the stock horn and installed a Stebel air horn (139 db) in its place. I had to make a steel bracket about 6 or 8 inches long, used the original mounting bolt and positioned the horn in the left hand middle body grill so its output is straight out. It is LOUD! I did not use a relay, however, I have one on hand and at the ready just in case. I don't like NOT using a relay. From other posts, it should be fine as long as I don't lay on the horn for more than a second or two. One poster stated he hit it for 10 seconds with no ill affects. We'll see.

That was one of the first things I did after bringing it home was to open the fuse boxes and check things out. There is a horn fuse, but no relay marked that its for the horn.
You are right; when in doubt - put a relay on it.

Yep. Always. [ with an added suppression diode across the contacts for good measure ].

It's not so much the steady load when the button contact closes, it the repetitive arcing from opening/closing induced by the inductive loads of a horn that eventually degrades the button's contacts - (unless it's piezo).

I receive my 'free' paper service manual on Saturday - I'll check it to confirm/refute presence of a relay (2019 F3L), if you don't have an answer to yer Q by then.

It could be a fuse problem, of course.
I suppose multiple fuses could blow but it is kind of unlikely.
You may also want to check that the switches are securely seated in their individual sockets.
The sockets are a real adventure to get to, but if it isn't a fuse(s) then I think that remains a real possibility.

If I remember right there's a plug under the left side Tupperware For all the switches maybe it got unplugged somehow.

You may be on to something there. After a quick scan of the wiring diagram. The only thing I see in common is one harness connector PIC1. Every panel switch, of the 4 possible, has leads going through that connector. So if it got unplugged that would do it.

I’m really stupid for not coming here in the first place. I spent $900 trying to figure out what the problem was. It figures that the problem was a $1 fuse. I want to thank everyone that posted suggestions. The problem was a blown fuse. I never realized that there was a fuse panel in the front compartment.