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Ok, so Today I was unable to finish installing the lift kit, but I made some progress...

Here is the kit, lined up and ready for primer and paint....

Got some cheap red paint, nice and bright..

I got the rear blocks installed, along with the rear x-member, and the forward suspension links and diff support bar... the blocks don't look big, but it certainly drops the whole assembly down a bunch!

Tomorrow, hopefully I can get the front end bits installed... or at least the rear hubs and stuff so I can see how far off the ground this thing is going to sit!

Today I got the rest of the lift blocks installed! (and swapped out the clean/non rusty x-member in the front...

Trans spacers installed...

and of course, the front strut blocks

The current hold up, is that I need the leading link body mount from an outback, (for the rear suspension) as it is about an inch "taller" than the stock brighton mount- which lowers the leading link's front edge down an inch... without this part, I have a bit too much space between the hub and the link-

Anyone have a couple outback leading link mounts available? (or know if any of the local boneyards have outbacks ?

Today I got the rest of the lift blocks installed! (and swapped out the clean/non rusty x-member in the front...

The current hold up, is that I need the leading link body mount from an outback, (for the rear suspension) as it is about an inch "taller" than the stock brighton mount- which lowers the leading link's front edge down an inch... without this part, I have a bit too much space between the hub and the link-

Anyone have a couple outback leading link mounts available? (or know if any of the local boneyards have outbacks ?

today I am making you new leading link blocks as per our conversation 1" back farther , do you also want them down 1" also? give me a call

Curious why not block down the trailing arm mount like the front subframe? then the trailing arms should reach fine?

Also, you do know you will need a lengthened front section of the driveline to run the D/R? They are about two inches shorter than the AWD boxes.

Actually, The trailing arm was dropped down- but only the same height as the rest of the kit- the problem is, I am using outback struts, which add another 1.5" to the struts, and I also added a 1/2" to the strut blocks in the rear for more weight carrying (to level the car out with a load) and so that pushed the rear hub even lower- thus I needed to reposition the forward link's mount... I have the new blocks now from Scott, I will post pics with an update as soon as they are in.

And yes, I am familar with the length change on the driveshaft- the D/R swap will be a later thing, as I am still collecting parts for that, and I wanted to get the lift out of the way first... I am planning on having a one-piece driveshaft made for the D/R swap- less moving joints (less failure points)

Hurray!!! Thanks Scott, I got the new re-drilled rear blocks in, and the 1" back holes work great! they bolted up with no stress... (I guess that means the wheels will be pushed slightly back when the suspension compresses...

I got more of the rear suspension assembled, but not quite complete yet...

I did get the front end almost complete- (minus the lengthened steering shaft) and I bolted the wheels on, and woah! even with the car on the jackstands, the small tires were touching the ground already!!

I got all the rest of the suspension bolted up now, and the wheels back on!

Here is the rear stuff, almost done.... (still had to swap parking brake cables, and reattach the driveshaft)

I put the small tires on first, since there was not enough room between the ground and the newly lowered suspension for the swampers... and here it is, with the regular "L" size tires...

and after that, I put it up on higher jack stands, and finished up a few more pieces- like bleeding brakes, etc... and then installed the swampers!!!

Here it is!!!

and Scott, the re-drilled blocks work wonderfully!! here is the car with a slight load in the rear (tools) and the suspension at rest, the 27x9x14 swampers don't rub on the struts, or the fender wells in the rear!!! NO TRIMMING!!!

However, the front might require a slight adjustment of the mud-guards, depending on how much the tires rub.... but I still need to install a steering shaft so i can find that out

and Scott, the re-drilled blocks work wonderfully!! here is the car with a slight load in the rear (tools) and the suspension at rest, the 27x9x14 swampers don't rub on the struts, or the fender wells in the rear!!! NO TRIMMING!!!

The first time you are offroad and the wheel stuffs into the well, you will be rubbing hard at the rear of the wheel.

But I guess it looks better on the highway. Hopefully it isn't too far toed out from moving the trailing arm back but not the crossmember.

The first time you are offroad and the wheel stuffs into the well, you will be rubbing hard at the rear of the wheel.

But I guess it looks better on the highway. Hopefully it isn't too far toed out from moving the trailing arm back but not the crossmember.

True, but think of it this way- Trimming the plastic bumper, or the rear of the fender section of the quarter panel, is not quite as difficult or vital as it would be than trimming the front little section of quarter panel, or as seen on some lifted subarus- cutting right into the rear door!