Style: The ESB -- extra special bitter -- is a derivation of the British bitter. It's celebrated for its hearty proportions of malty, sweet flavors and bitter hoppiness. The ESB, despite its name, is really not that bitter, and even though you will find some hoppy dryness in the flavor profile, it is not overpowering.

The key to a good ESB is a complex balance of flavors. The color is usually deep copper to bronze; the brew often has low carbonation. Time was that "extra special" was merely a marketing label given to premium bitter beers. The ESB has become, however, a recognized style in its own.

Background: This beer takes its name from Southwestern Dane County's Sugar River. Fitchburg Brewer Pat Keller, along with Eric Brusewitz from the downtown location and Great Dane brewmaster Rob LoBreglio, traveled to England in 2000 to do research on cask-conditioned ales. This beer was the result of a short detour to the Chiswick, England brewery that makes the well-known Fuller's ESB (a reference beer for this style).

When the Great Dane in Fitchburg opened, this beer was one of the first brewed there, and it continues to be a mainstay on the taps. Sugar River ESB features English malts and hops in its recipe, and is available at the Fitchburg Great Dane in pints or in half-gallon growlers to take home.

Taste: Starts with a firm, but light, caramel maltiness, followed by a hoppy background.

Finish/Aftertaste: Mildly dry bitterness.

Glassware: The basic Shaker pint glass seems made for the ESB!

Pairs well with: The complex malt and hop flavors are wonderful compliments to ribeye steak or prime rib. The hoppiness will actually cut through the gristly nature of these meats.

Rating: Three bottle openers.

(I am using a one to four bottle opener scale: four is a great beer, distinctive, you'll have this over others; three is a beer you enjoy, reliable, close to its described style; two is problematic, lacks distinction, but worth having again; one is a beer that isn't true to its style, you would not recommend it to a friend.)

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