Description

Pitch 1: Climb up the slabby, left wall of the obvious, giant dihedral. Belay under the massive roof. 100 ft. Pitch 2: Immediately step across the gap to the right wall of the dihedral. This is airy, and definitely the mental crux of the route. Shorter people may have to stretch. Traverse out onto the exposed face around the corner and then head up to a belay about 50 feet higher. Pitch 3: Head up and slightly left aiming for a path into the vegetation.

Once you are on the big vegetated ledge, walk left looking for the last viable scramble to the summit. There are a couple bolts to protect the scramble. Walk off the summit trail.

the 5.9 direct finish of pitch 2 is quite fun. Traverse right at the 2nd pitch anchors and you can pick up on the pitch 2 anchors of Jim Dandy. as far as easy one move wonders go, this one is fun. The first pitch is a great first trad lead and can be done with a set of stoppers.

Super Excellent Climb!! First Pitch takes great pro all the way up if you stay in the seem proper and is mellow climbing. Second pitch is the gnar!! The notorious step across move to start off and then some nice exposed traversing with delicate crack climbing to finish! The variation the goes up the overhanging corner to the directly under the roof right after the step across move is super fun and will add a little spice (5.8-9ish moves) to the route, but if you do it make sure to protect the traverse well for your second! Have done it both variations and they are stellar!!

Did first two pitches with my 14 year old son last Friday. Rapping over the three roofs on the double rope rappel back to top of P1 Jim Dandy ledge definately got his attention. Be careful on that rappel.

The long traverse of Pitch 2 is not ideally protected. On P2, right after the 1st big 'crossing the void' move, you have a long 15-20 foot traverse to the right. If you're an experienced trad climber in harder grades and have an experienced second, this will be easy. If you are new to leading trad or following, this traverse can be scary and dangerous (potentially leading to a huge swing out for you or your second). And you can't ideally rappel off P1 anchors to ground.

We topped out Peek a Boo today, and I would really not recommend it, because to get up to Lightning Ledge, you have to go through all of this burned vegetation and ashes, and the while the ground is falling apart below your feet. I bet I'll still have ashes in my clothes for a while...

This is an interesting route. Technically not hard but it is mentally very tough. I wound not recommened bringing new climber on this route. The one move wonder is great! But, it is very commiting and a 60m rope will not get you to the ground if you don't want to do it. Leaders should protect their seconds on the traverse because a fall on the big step could result in a huge swing. P1 and P2 are good. P3 is not great. I could not find the correct line (Nothing looked 5.4). I took the line of least resistance up and right and ended up beside Kmart Special. Everything there is wet if it has rain within the last week. Climbed up wet moss and dripping rock and dove through the bushes onto lightning ledge about 20 ft from the top of Cave route with about 10 ft of rope left (rope drag was terrible). Needless to say, rap from P2 and get on something else to the top. A good route regardless!