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I believe you. Especially when the mains (L,R, and soon to be C) are 50" tall and 16" or so deep. Working on rearranging the room now to accommodate the riser/second row. With that the subs are getting moved around a bit.

I believe you. Especially when the mains (L,R, and soon to be C) are 50" tall and 16" or so deep. Working on rearranging the room now to accommodate the riser/second row. With that the subs are getting moved around a bit.

LOL. Everyone needs to quit rubbing off on one another. I shifted my second row forward a bit to make room for another pair of SI 18's at the back of the room. I'm just not 100% happy with the FR response in the back row of seats, and it would help to fix a null at the MLP at certain frequencies.

I shifted my second row forward a bit to make room for another pair of SI 18's at the back of the room. I'm just not 100% happy with the FR response in the back row of seats, and it would help to fix a null at the MLP at certain frequencies.

Haha, got to do what you have to. I'm curious to see how my response will look in the different seats. I will know more this weekend with any luck. Worst case I add a few more subs, right? I should be good though, they are pretty well spread out as is.

Developed a tapping sound in one of my drivers. PE said no problem and gave me an RA for an exchange. I've got it ready to ship out, only trouble is they are out of stock for another 3 weeks or so. Guess I will have to live with just 3 of the boxes until then, bah.

I did move one of the boxes from the front to behind the second row riser now. As expected, it added quite a bit to that row's experience. It will be staying there. will run some sweeps as it is later on.

I have been following your thread for some time, as it has been quite inspirational to take my own system to the next level. I recently purchased two of these Dayton drivers (One with the discounted Parts-Express 4 cubic feet flat pack) and one I originally bought alone. Having that built, I am quite impressed with it's performance, and seeing your build I want to go for the dual opposing design.

So I have a few questions that I haven't quite found an answer for in this thread. First, how thick of plywood did you use for this build? I seen you mentioned cabinet grade, but I don't know what thickness those typically are. I'm going to guess you used at least 3/4" plywood? Seeing the dimensions in the quote below on the cut out image, it looks like that may be it?

Is 23 wide x 25 height x 28 deep the external dimensions as well?

I have two 3/4" thick 4 x 8 sheets of birch out in the garage, as well as four 1" MDF 4 x 8 sheets out in the garage, and I've been considering building the dual opposing enclosure out of the 1"MDF.

Thanks!
By the way, did you get your replacement Dayton in from PE with out issue?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gorilla83

My box is 23wide x 25height x 28 deep for a total of around ~7 cubes net. The dimensions can be easily modified if needed. I'd be happy to help you design a box, but otherwise here is my cutlist - this includes two panels for bracing and of course a double baffle on the front and back:

Hoodcom, I would assume that he used 3/4" as that is pretty much the standard. Where did you find 4' by 8' sheets of 1" MDF? That would be great to use for a sub build! But you might need to adjust the dimensions of the enclosure as to compensate for the difference in your 1" thick MDF versus the original 3/4" MDF that Gorilla used in his build. You want to make sure that the volume of the sub matches the volume that Gorilla used.

I have been following your thread for some time, as it has been quite inspirational to take my own system to the next level. I recently purchased two of these Dayton drivers (One with the discounted Parts-Express 4 cubic feet flat pck) and one I originally bought alone. Having that built, I am quite impressed with it's performance, and seeing your build I want to go for the dual opposing design.

So I have a few questions that I haven't quite found an answer for in this thread. First, how thick of plywood did you use for this build? I seen you mentioned cabinet grade, but I don't know what thickness those typically are. I'm going to guess you used at least 3/4" plywood? Seeing the dimensions in the quote below on the cut out image, it looks like that may be it?

Is 23 wide x 25 height x 28 deep the external dimensions as well?

I have two 3/4" thick 4 x 8 sheets of birch out in the garage, as well as four 1" MDF 4 x 8 sheets out in the garage, and I've been considering building the dual opposing enclosure out of the 1"MDF.

Thanks!
By the way, did you get your replacement Dayton in from PE with out issue?

Hi Hoodcom - Glad to hear you're having fun. Yes, I used 3/4" as that seems to be pretty much standard for a build like this. The box is 23" wide, 25" tall, and actually wound up being 29.5" deep since there were double baffles on each end. The 1" MDF would probably work very well, what type of finish do you plan on using? If you wind up using that you can pretty much add 0.5" (0.25" extra on each end) to the height/width/depth due to the added thickness of your material.

I figured I would need to alter the dimensions some, which is why I was asking about the ones he gave, if they were for internal or external.

Well, it was not so easy at first since no one in my area actually stocks 1" MDF 4x8 sheets, but then one of our friends suggested a local shop that deals with custom cabinets even, that also stocks various plywood (Except 1" MDF), but were very willing to order it in for me to purchase upon pickup. Best part is they were only 3 miles up the road from work!

-Edit-

Ah, he responded while I was writing this. lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gorilla83

Hi Hoodcom - Glad to hear you're having fun. Yes, I used 3/4" as that seems to be pretty much standard for a build like this. The box is 23" wide, 25" tall, and actually wound up being 29.5" deep since there were double baffles on each end. The 1" MDF would probably work very well, what type of finish do you plan on using? If you wind up using that you can pretty much add 0.5" (0.25" extra on each end) to the height/width/depth due to the added thickness of your material.

Oh - forgot to respond to your question regarding my replacement driver. I wound up having to purchase that driver (at least discounted) since they said there was a problem with the voice coil being burnt. Since this was the same box that had a short and killed my LG clone amp, I'll probably chalk that incident up to same "oops" when my banana plugs came loose. Something funky happened there - all of the other drivers are doing very well.

P.S. - If you haven't already chosen a connector, I would go with speakon!!

Oh - forgot to respond to your question regarding my replacement driver. I wound up having to purchase that driver (at least discounted) since they said there was a problem with the voice coil being burnt. Since this was the same box that had a short and killed my LG clone amp, I'll probably chalk that incident up to same "oops" when my banana plugs came loose. Something funky happened there - all of the other drivers are doing very well.

P.S. - If you haven't already chosen a connector, I would go with speakon!!

Ouch, but at least you still came out pretty well in the end, I hope!

I actually chose a terminal like you use, but I was planning on using bare wire and tighten it down.

What kind of banana plugs did you end up using? Are they locking types that came loose?

I wound up using the Sewell deadbolt connectors which are great and hold the wire securely. Unfortunately it was the entire plug that backed out of the connector when that happened. It was mainly from moving the sub around so much around the room to find proper positioning. At some point I'll convert all the boxes to speakons or even build new boxes entirely with a new "design."

Those Sewell look pretty solid. The first locking banana plugs I have began using were some GLS Audio Banana plugs. I never would go back to non-locking types. But hey, at least you got plenty of space to move subwoofers around, I'm trying to fit what I can in my space. lol!

I do have a speakon connector and a cable already wired for bridge use, but I'd like to use the terminal I bought (like the ones you currently have) for any changes in wiring configurations. Series or parallel. Which maybe the same can be done for speakon, I haven't really used it before.

But I am interested in what new "design" you might use if you went that route.

My reason for choosing the double binding posts was the same as yours - to keep external wiring flexible. This could be done with speakons as well, but not as easily.

As for a new design, that is TBD but likely something made from higher end baltic birch using extensive bracing and perhaps wrapped in veneer. I doubt I would notice any audible difference though, it would just be for the building experience. My free time has been cut down drastically lately and most of it is going toward finishing my workshop.

I was considering baltic birch at first but the price detoured me in comparison to the 1" MDF, just for my personal preferences. lol Building experiences is great to have, which I am aiming for doing this project. I haven't personally worked with wood on my own, but I have been doing a project or two with my dad. We got the tools to do it. Quality time can be earned too.

I have plenty of amp power to start with too, I'm getting excited to get the new enclosure built! I really want to hear the dual opposing design!

How does one perform the loop back on all the gear? This is a must for me. I want to know what is making my graphs drop at 5.5 hz! BTW, I just put the clone back in and bridged it with a one Channel 6 ohm load and you can really feel the difference in power! The one clone drives all my 13's which are 83 or 86 dBs sensitive each. I know you guys think that because they have a big surround they are not good but this system floors the 18's I had and the dual DTS10's. The 18's had more Midbass though but it was extra headroom anyways. I just watched HTTYD at reference and the subs 10 dBs hot with no problems. I also watched TDKR and man is that movie recorded loud! I thought the bass was much better the second time around. It hits very hard even though not deep. The beginning was demo material.

I too was wondering that same thing. I think more people would do this if it is not too complex.

After some searching this was the best I could find - it is old but should still be applicable today.