There aren't too many in Derby and your spy and partner were completely unaware this was the case at Balti Nights, the new Indian restaurant which opened in Sinfin earlier this year.

Kamal Hussain and Nahid Chowdhury have turned the former takeaway into a 46-cover restaurant, employing 10 staff, but have not, as yet, got a licence to sell booze.

Luckily there is an off-licence just next door. So, after being shown to our table I nipped out to grab a few cans and a bottle of wine.

Popping open a can of lager and glugging a splash of rose into a glass provided by the attentive waiter, we scanned the menu while getting stuck into some poppadoms.

Given that it was previously a takeaway, your spy was impressed with the range of invention on show in the specials. What about the badhshahi chicken, which uses mustard as a base? Or the labra, which is served with an omelette?

We made a few quick decisions and ordered an onion bhaji (the control order for any Indian restaurant review) a bit of paneer and three mains to share: chicken tikka, chicken karahi and murgh Punjabi massala.

Just to mop up any extra sauce we added a garlic and a cheese-and-chilli naan.

The paneer was soft but punchy with a rich coating but the bhaji, while robustly flavoured, was a little dry and chalky on the tongue.

Things picked up with the mains, especially the murgh Punjabi massala, smooth, thick curry with tomato, ginger and garlic and what the menu described as "special herbs". It was fiery and full of flavour.

The chicken tikka was succulent while the karahi was a not-that-spicy-but-still-delicious choice, for people who fear the sweats that Indian spice can bring.

The two naans were warm, soft and moist, perhaps a tad oily but flavoured well.

Some may sniff at the idea of bringing your own but just because the owners aren't trying to fleece you for your drinks money doesn't mean there is not some serious talent in the kitchen.

This is a well-run, smart outfit. You might argue that some expense has been spared on the fittings and furnishings but the clean, minimalist approach is enhanced by cheap but warm-coloured lighting that creates an intimate atmosphere.

For a bit of inner-suburb dining out, this is fine and the much lower prices mean your spy would happily come to a place like Balti Nights on a quiet weeknight, for an impulsive pick-me-up.

You can spend what you like on drink, you get a great meal and you go home with a smile on your face.

Okay, I can't guarantee the smile – you might bang your hip on a table, or jab your eye with a particularly sharp bit of carrot, I don't know.

But if you're not satisfied it won't be the fault of the guys at Balti Nights.

They clearly understand what they want to serve and how much they want to charge and are going the right way about doing both.