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YWFE381LVQ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for YWFE381LVQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Hot Burner Light always on

Thermal switch is integral to element and can not be changed, must replace entire element.

Turn off power. Removed front two screws above oven door jamb and lifted the top. Removed the bracket that holds the element against the glass top and removed the element. Moved brackets from old element to new one, aligning to same numerical position and then moved wiring to new element. Slide new element under bracket and reinstalled single screw. Replaced top and screwed down. Turn on power and test .

temperature not accurate after 3 1/2 years of happy usage

Opened up the back of the stove. Unpluged the sensor. Replaced the sensor. Replace the back of the stove.

The sensor that has been replaced is not what is expected. After reading all of the instructions for adjusting the temperatures, the only temp that stays steady is when we first turn on the oven to 350 degrees. That stays steady but when I turn it to 400 it slowly goes up to 425 degrees.

This is not the best design. You'll need to have an extra set of hands to hold the trim pieces in place. Remember the glass is positioned outside [on top of]the trim pieces. Be careful as the trim pieces are rather brittle and can be hard to locate in their proper position. Position glass in the holding tabs at the bottom, hold glass against the trim pieces and gently position door handle over glass and trim.The handle holds everything together. No instructions are shipped w/ parts.

Socket Light had a bad thread

Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outsideof the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wiresthat are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then yousnap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put aoven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

Since no instructions are provided with the part and not having seen the oven with the glass door in place, the major problem was figuring out how things went together. The top handle MUST be removed and the bottom trim need not be (although I had already done so). After removing the top handle the glass slips into the bottom trim easily, but the edges set ON TOP of the side plastic trims (left and right), not under the edge as it would appear if you have never seen the original door in place. Properly positioning the glass door then lets the top handle slip back on and the two screws replaced to hold it all to gether. Another pair of hands helps hold it all together until the top handle is fixed back in place. It's quite simple in reality, and instructions would have made it so.

Scratches in Surface

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

The broiler element started sparking and melting in one spot. I thought it would catch on fire and quickly turned off the oven.

First we unplugged the range. My husband removed the old element using a screw driver. He also removed the back panel on the oven after pulling it out from the wall. He unplugged the broiler prongs and plugged in the new element, put it all back together using the screw driver. We plugged it back in, turned on the oven and it is working great! Simple and easy to do in a short amount of time. Cool!!

Burner was not heating up

Puled out the electical plug . Removed the back panel. Pulled off the switch knob. Removed the 2 screws holding the switch. Took the wires off of the old switch and placed them on the corespondig connector on the new switch. Put everything back in reverse order.

Oven stuck in cleaning mode

Google the error code that the range was displaying and found others with the same symptoms. Then found several people that had fixed the problem by replacing the oven sensor. I then ordered the sensor and replaced it, which fixed the problem.

Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

Oven light not working

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!