You ever gonna tell us how you plan to create the receptor and waterproof the shower, Paul, or are we just gonna keep guessing what you might be planning to do. We help more efficiently when we know what we're helping with.

Pre-slope is done. Got a good slope of 1" fall from all sides, the long was 48" and needed all 1", the rest have a more pronounced slope. I will make up difference in the shower pan I pour next. What y'all guys think for my first concrete job ever, unless you count setting fence posts.

Paul said,"I will make up difference in the shower pan I pour next." Not sure what you mean by that but the top mud bed should have the same pitch as the preslope. You'll want the top mud bed level around the perimeter, just like the preslope. So, the areas where the drain is closer to the walls, the steeper the pitch will be.

Paul, the top mud bed must be a uniform thickness of a minimum of 1 1/2 inches, following the slope of your pre-slope.

If that mud felt like concrete, it was too wet. Doesn't matter much on the pre-slope, but it's very important that the top mud bed be done correctly so it is sufficiently porous to function properly. Deck mud is not concrete, nor does it want to be. It wants to be deck mud. It will be happy as deck mud.

Ok, so here is a new one. I have the pre-slope done, and am wishing I had put in a kerdi drain. Which some experience with fiberglass, I feel that the Kerdi system would be right up my alley. Either way, I have a 3 peice drain, so its to late to switch to kerdi, or is it? Convince me that it is a bad isea to try that now, using Kerdi with a traditional PVC line type 3 peice drain. Anybody done this and make it work?

Ive also noticed my wall area way out oy alignmenbt, so I am going to have to do some shimming and shaving.

Agagin, original plab was to use REDGARD and PVC mat liner. Thanks for the help everyone. I am about to head out of town for a few days, going to take the moment to roder some more supplies. If I make this switch, I need to do it now. Thanks again!

If you wanna switch to a direct bonded waterproofing membrane system you would simply remove the pre-slope you just made (deck mud is dirt cheap, DIY labor is free), call it practice, chip out enough concrete to change to a bonding flange drain, make a new mud bed with the proper slope and continue with your shower.

I would recommend the USG Durock Shower System membrane and drain if you elect to do that. Better membrane, easier to work with.

i just spoke with tech sup[port for Redgard. The rep told me that I could:

1. Install pre-slope
2. Install Cement backer board
3. Fill CBD joints with mesh tape and Modified thinset
4. Redgard from the ceiling all the way down the walls, to the drain,
5. Add in the shower pan mud.

He said if I did this, I wouldnt need any pvc liner, nor waterproofing system. Is this correct? I am hesitant to do this until I hear from some of you all thats its ok. I believe this would be the easiest option for me and my skillset, but it would be worthless if it wont work and leaks.

I personally would not use a liquid-applied direct bonded membrane to construct a shower receptor, but it is done. You want to be very, very careful in the installation of the product in that application. It is not like painting the bedroom walls, 'specially the portion that is to make up your shower receptor.

CX, that is exactly what I was thinking. i think I am going to take back the Redgard and Oatey PVC liner, and get some of the durock membrane and the Kerdi drain adapter.

Will the Kerdi drain adapter work with the durock membrane?

The Kerdi dkrain adapter is abs, will that work with an Oatey PVC 3 peice?

When splicing joints, the durock method sells a 5" strip to overlap with. Can you just take the regular membrane, and cut into 5" strips, instead of buying the mini 5" strip rolls? Is this the same material?

I have a bench, and am just not confortable with trying to waterproof it with redgard and pvc liner. I am not in a hurry, and want to do this right, and it looks like the durock/kerdi membrane is the way to go now.

The Kerdi Adapter Drain is mechanically connected to the bottom portion of a clamping ring drain and it matters not at all whether you have PVC or ABS.

That said, I would still vote to chip out enough concrete to install a bonding flange drain, either the USG or the Schluter, correctly to the drain riser without the added height of the adapter.

Yes, the USG Durock Shower Membrane will bond to a Kerdi drain just fine, but neither manufacturer will stand behind the installation. You don't care about the warranty, though, because any failure you might have will be an installer error.