The bar at Revival Bar & Restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., is seen on Wednesday, July 25th, 2012.

The bar at Revival Bar & Restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., is seen on Wednesday, July 25th, 2012.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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The kitchen at Revival Bar & Restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., is seen on Wednesday, July 25th, 2012.

The kitchen at Revival Bar & Restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., is seen on Wednesday, July 25th, 2012.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

Image 9 of 11

Peter Maglaty makes flatbread at Revival Bar & Restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., is seen on Wednesday, July 25th, 2012.

Peter Maglaty makes flatbread at Revival Bar & Restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., is seen on Wednesday, July 25th, 2012.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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The Wild California King Salmon at Revival Bar & Restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., is seen on Wednesday, July 25th, 2012.

The Wild California King Salmon at Revival Bar & Restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., is seen on Wednesday, July 25th, 2012.

Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

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Revival Bar & Kitchen review: fresh frontier

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Like a frontier woman, Amy Murray makes her stand in Revival's exhibition kitchen. The chef-owner brings in whole goats and pigs, and makes her own charcuterie, conserves and cheese. The flavorful whey from that cheese making finds its way into crisp and airy polenta cakes and flatbread. Her presentations are gutsy and lively.

And so is the atmosphere. Vested barkeeps and a 20-seat communal table help create a convivial energy that flows through the dramatic dining room. In the center of Revival is a canopied "room" framed by drapery and vintage light fixtures, hinting at the good life, or perhaps a bordello.

And that's what makes Revival Bar & Kitchen work, for behind all the solicitous service there's a little naughtiness - after all, its name places bar ahead of kitchen. Classic cocktails and seasonal libations rely on a variety of house-made infusions, syrups and tinctures. And a few local keg wines augment Revival's 80-plus-bottle international wine list.

My first evening here was in May, two years after the restaurant opened and six months after Murray took over as executive chef. (She also owns Venus, a few blocks away.) That exceptional meal led to a green light for a review and three more dinners in the past month.

Each time, I've been impressed by Murray's inventiveness and use of produce. In general, the salads, soups, small plates and flatbreads come together more successfully than the main courses.

And then there's Murray's rich charcuterie ($8 for one; $18 for a selection), made in house from whole animals and served with a minimum of fuss. Her rillettes ($12) are particularly wonderful.

Goat comes in a couple of times a month, so it's not always available. I preferred the simple goat merguez sausage ($22), served on a stock-rich barley risotto, over the tiny, chewy grilled goat chops ($25), overshadowed on my visit by a bright saute of fresh garbanzos and the most delicate chickpea-flour cake, green with parsley.

The Long & Bailey Farm grilled pork chop ($25), uncomplicated by smoke or salty cure, is a tastier and more consistent choice. The local wild king salmon ($24) accompanied by crisp polenta and a minty pea puree was also good on two visits, but a little overcooked on one.

I found quibbles with the gnocchi ($21), its texture like mashed potatoes; short ribs ($24), a little dry; and my half duck ($24), the apricot sauce good but too sweet for the leg confit. But in each case the seasonal produce made the dish memorable.

Murray's sensational sticky toffee pudding disappears in the summer, but new pastry chef Andrea Johnson's panna cotta ($8) - whether anchored by goat cheese or perfumed with lemon verbena - is a worthy substitute. Johnson's buttery tartlet of cherries and peaches ($8) is lifted by bitter almond ice cream. Even her apricot sorbet ($7) is astonishingly good, tasting more like apricots than any apricot.

At times it seems as if Revival's pristine ingredients fight for supremacy on the plate. Murray is a talented conductor and champion of Northern California's food shed. And she's most effective when she brings her products into harmony.

Prices are based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories, the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings. Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All meals are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit.

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