I just lowered the seat height using the adjustment available in the rear shock stud - I lowered is as much as possible. My question: Will this affect the overall geometry enough that I will need to lower the front forks?

I just lowered the seat height using the adjustment available in the rear shock stud - I lowered is as much as possible. My question: Will this affect the overall geometry enough that I will need to lower the front forks?

Try it as is & if you find it doesn't turn as well as you like then raise them a little.

The first step is to empty the tank. A few minutes with a siphon hose and we're ready to go.

For those who haven't seen it, this is is what the fuel pump looks like when it's installed.

There really isn't much to it. Just remove the allen head bolts and it drops right out.

Here is the old one next to the new one.

I re-used the stock o-ring and haven't had an issue yet. Putting it all back together is just as easy as taking it apart. Put back together it fired right up and has been running great ever since

Now . . . somebody asked if I'd take my old one apart to see if maybe we could just carry the tiny little electric pump as a back-up and field strip it instead of having to try and pack a whole extra fuel pump assembly.

Short answer = NO

Well . . . maybe, but it isn't really meant to come apart after initial assembly.

Let me explain . . .

First - some shots around the old pump

A shot of the electrical connections.

These pop off without issue.

Then I unhooked the low fuel sensor.

The whole low fuel sensor assembly comes right off. Makes working on it easier with that out of the way. Now comes the hard part and the reason why I don't think this would be a good idea in the field . . . this thing isn't meant to come apart. Yes, there are just little clips that hold the "cage" on, but the clips don't push in and you really have to force the outer part out in order to unhook them. I wound up cracking it in a few places forcing it open.

Once forced open however, the fuel pump itself slides right out.

There is a little o-ring that goes around the top. Don't lose it.

Here's the actual part number to end all the confusion as to whether or not we share a fuel pump with the Zuma guys . . .

Fuel filter connection. This won't want to come off without the possibility of some damage, either. I tried prying on it a little bit, but since I was getting really close to breaking something I gave up.

Just for the hell of it, I disassembled the top part. I'll be honest and say I have no idea what this does . . . but here's how you take it apart. This came apart and went back together in a snap. No problems.

More o-rings you don't want to loose.

Tiny o-ring inside

After the helluva time I had trying to disassemble the pump in the first place, it becomes quite clear that it was designed to be put together, not taken apart. It all went back together in a matter of seconds.

Anyway . . . to sum up . . . it's a royal pita to take it apart and you'll most likely wind up cracking something in the process.

I just lowered the seat height using the adjustment available in the rear shock stud - I lowered is as much as possible. My question: Will this affect the overall geometry enough that I will need to lower the front forks?

Assuming you wanted to lower the bike by using the ride height adjuster raising the forks will further help in that regard. Quoting from Yamlink, just remember changes to rake/trail (the forks) do not need to be on a 1:1 ratio with the rear because geometry is affected at a different rate. In addition, 18mm (3/4") is the most I'd raise the forks due to the possibility of fender/wheel contact at full bottoming.

I just lowered the seat height using the adjustment available in the rear shock stud - I lowered is as much as possible. My question: Will this affect the overall geometry enough that I will need to lower the front forks?

With my rear set to full height (as it comes from the factory) I felt the bike was very twitchy above 60 MPH, especially in cross winds. The front end also tended to kick sideways too easilly when the side of the tire hit 2 to 4 inch rocks. Both problems were cured when I adjusted the rear to the lowest position.

Thanks for replies. I'm going to take AZ Tom's advice and ride it for a while with the front forks in the current position (flush with the top of the clamp).

Quote:

Originally Posted by BluePill

With my rear set to full height (as it comes from the factory) I felt the bike was very twitchy above 60 MPH, especially in cross winds. The front end also tended to kick sideways too easilly when the side of the tire hit 2 to 4 inch rocks. Both problems were cured when I adjusted the rear to the lowest position.

Best i've done is 93 gps.. wot down hill straightaway. 13/42. usual performance mods. That was with travel gear & windscreen. I think if i lightened up a bit & maybe had a bit of tail wind, it would do it.

That's 6 mph faster than I was ever able to get my KLX250 to go, and it's running the 351 kit. It's been detailed out before elsewhere, the KLX351 doesn't have the porting (of the stock 250 head) to be able to breathe at really high revs like the WR can. The KLX351 is a tractor motor, and to get maximum hp (about 27) you don't rev the bike past 6500 rpm. It really does have a massive amount of torque, for a small engine at 3000 rpm and up.