I think that is the point ... if the jump is exactly right such that she jumps out just far enough to have minimum swing in, and the fall ends at the exact moment that the fall ends, impact is small. Anything else and it starts to hurt.

I did some reading and the captstan equation predicts that the tension in the climbing rope will be over 2.3 times that coming from the top draw to the belayer. That is, friction on the top draw has a big effect on reducing the dynamic effects of the dynamic rope. The light weight climber would also reduce dynamic stretch. This is probably why the video looks like a fall on a static.

no ... its not hard ... keep a slight bit of slack in the rope ... as the person falls let yourself get pulled in/up a bit, no need to jump ... easy to do

how much do you fall on lead, especially slab?

I think Syd is talking about the climber jumping, not the belayer jumping in order to give a softer catch. And no, the climber shouldn't be jumping out, because that creates a swing in, and DEFINITELY should avoid jumping while facing sideways/out.

The timing of the belayer's jump is easy to feel if you are lighter than the climber, but takes some practice to get just right if you are much heavier, as was the case of this (obviously not-very-experienced) belayer. But yes, I agree, not rocket science, easy to learn.

Ankle injuries suck, and after I sprained both of mine (on slabs) last spring I spent about 2 weeks trying to find a way to blame my belayer. It's really not worth the effort. A softer catch may have reduced the severity of your injury, but there's no 'safe' way to jump around like that on rock.

But lucky you, now you get to spend a few hundred hours on your bike with a heart rate monitor, training your aerobic system and rehabing your ankle! I came back from my ankle injuries climbing an extra letter grade harder (after a few weeks) because of all the base fitness work I put in. This is just nature's way of telling you to train more.

Maybe the old school way of climbing is on it's way out!!!!!!!!!!!! Head injuries are usually the worst when you tumble down a slab out of control. So protect you head and try and control the fall. Your fall was intentional. Old wives tale about falling on slabs was to run down the slab facing your partner. Sounds crazy but it works.

A number of years ago, and I won't say how many, practiced this in Tuolumne on some 10+ slabs as I don't climb that level without falling. As you fall you head right or left, depending on which is the best or path of least resistance. As you run, and I do mean run, you run in an arc. The energy is absorbed by changing the acceleration from a gravitational force to a change in direction to some extent. Like a big swing.

There will be a point at which you will not be able to keep up with the acceleration of gravity and you will go head over heels. Head injuries are bad.

Wish I had known, I was just there and could have made one if I could get up the nerve again to fall on slabs. Scared the crap out of myself on Goodrich Pinnacle in the Valley and only did the first 4 pitches. Sorry I know of no videos.

I have to disagree that falling on a slab is best done by facing your partner and running at him. When I fall, I don't have time to turn around. Just keep upright and run/shuffle feet to stay upright. I've climbed and fallen on lots of slab.

That is the only technique I've used and seen. Love to see a video of someone running facing downhill too.