The deposits are most likely calcium scale and minute amounts of rust or other minerals. The most environmentally friendly way to clean it is soak it overnight with a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water, then scrub it out with steel wool. If this doesn't do it on the first or second try, go with Lime Away or other similar product. Just make sure you clean thoroughly before using after the chemical cleaner.

Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.

you havent specified where the switch becomes loose and inoperable .......it is in the plug point or the base of the unit
if it is on the mains then change the point
it it is on the base of the unit ...
then give some padding to the base where the plug is connected then
it will start working////////
i hope this suggestion will solve your problem

Does the unit shut off only before the water boils, or does it shut off and on periodically? I just fixed my friend's WK200 Braun kettle. His would shut off and on, eventually coming to a boil. During normal operation, when you press the switch, it is connected to a rod which at its other end (ie the bottom of the kettle) is able to close the circuit allowing the current to pass through the heating element. In my friend's case, the contact had become weak - I just had to slightly bend the metal pole a little bit to provide a better contact when the switch was depressed. To repair the unit, I only needed a couple of torx screwdrivers and a voltmeter to measure continuity. (note, if you bend the metal pole too much, then the circuit will always be closed even when the switch is OFF - make sure you test for an open circuit when the switch is OFF)

This is the solution for the BLACK Braun electic water heater, so you must adjust the color to fit if yours is another color.
First take the 3 pieces that go inside the top. Two look like a "Z", and the other is the square, white doo-dad. Take the square piece and slip it into the slot with lid open. YOU CANT PUT IT IN FLAT UNLESS THE LID IS OPEN! Make sure that you can put it in FLAT. Once it is in flat, take it back out. Now you have the 2 "Z" pieces. Fiddle around with these pieces until you learn how to put them in together so they will fit together. This may take several tries. There is a piece that acts like a pivot. Now take all 3 pieces out. The trick is not to put the 2 "Z" pieces in together. You have to figure out what Z-piece to put in first. Then put the rectangular white piece in, and then the other Z-piece. This all must be done with the lid OPEN, otherwise the rectangular piece will not lie flat. Make sure the little spring inside this rectangular piece it put in properly - it should be against the little black doo-dad on the lid. If everything is sitting happily together, you should be able to snap the other black part onto the lid, and close it successfully.

I have the same problem. It started about a week ago and I have to keep flicking the on switch to get it finally working. I think there's a problem with the contact with the base. Not sure if it's worth getting a replacement part for it. It worked well for 4+ yrs!

That is correct, the flat plastic rod that pulls when you depress the
on/off button is attached to a switch lever under the bottom of the
handle. The rod in mine broke off right where it connects to that
switch lever. You can either try and find the new or used part, Braun
may have new, I have not tried their 800 number, can't hurt? I fix
everything from scratch though and rebuild when I can especially if
parts are scarce or obsolete. So I used some marine putty to affix the
rod end back to the lever. Marine putty is a stick with two putties you
roll together for a rock hard compound, awesome stuff. You can get at
Wally World or hardware, auto parts, boat supply stores. I also drilled
very small holes in the broken rod on each side and the lever on each
side and threaded some thin stainless steel wire through, just looped
it around without twisting it togethor before putting the putty over it
for a permanent, wire reinforced, fix.The handle is not screwed on
exception of one little torx screw at very bottom of handle on base.
The handle just snaps together. The base or bottom and 3 screws do not
need to be removed either for this rod and lever fix. Remove the top
'cover' piece of the handle first, then remove the two brass pins
under it at top next to the on/off button second. So, the handle
'snaps' off with a lock blade knife or equivalent, get under the handle
pieces with knife edge and twist the blade, it will pop off as you go,
be prepared to break a few little hook pieces off underneath, they
break but it seems to snap back on ok anyway. Crazy glue alone won't
hold these plastic pieces together btw, try another way, wire and
putty, maybe a plastic welding kit etc.. Mine works great again, once I
got the lever reattached to the rod..