I saw maukka’s updates on page 220. The light looks really sharp. Were there beamshot photos of the recent sample posted?

Waiting to hear about how the orders will work because I will likely order more than one. All LH351D 90+ CRI.

I see it has been confirmed it only works with unprotected cells due to length. I only have MTN protected NCR18650GA cells now but I suppose I can buy a few unprotected for this light. Would be convenient if it were compatible with both but it’s ok.

Interesting, I see the 30Q has much less sag at 7A (0.1v less than 18650GA and 0.15v less than 35E), but has less capacity overall and is equivalent at lower currents. And the Sony VTC6 is slightly better than a 30Q.

What is the DD FET current expected to be for this light?
So, button or flat top?

I saw maukka’s updates on page 220. The light looks really sharp. Were there beamshot photos of the recent sample posted?

Waiting to hear about how the orders will work because I will likely order more than one. All LH351D 90+ CRI.

I see it has been confirmed it only works with unprotected cells due to length. I only have MTN protected NCR18650GA cells now but I suppose I can buy a few unprotected for this light. Would be convenient if it were compatible with both but it’s ok.

Interesting, I see the 30Q has much less sag at 7A, but has less capacity overall and is equivalent at lower currents.

What is the DD current expected to be for this light?
So, button or flat top?

I saw maukka’s updates on page 220. The light looks really sharp. Were there beamshot photos of the recent sample posted?

Waiting to hear about how the orders will work because I will likely order more than one. All LH351D 90+ CRI.

I see it has been confirmed it only works with unprotected cells due to length. I only have MTN protected NCR18650GA cells now but I suppose I can buy a few unprotected for this light. Would be convenient if it were compatible with both but it’s ok.

Interesting, I see the 30Q has much less sag at 7A, but has less capacity overall and is equivalent at lower currents.

What is the DD current expected to be for this light?
So, button or flat top?

Amperage should be under 15A, but I’m not sure how much under. It will vary based on battery and led. We should get some exact numbers once the prototypes get delivered and measured.

You want to use unprotected flat top batteries.
Unprotected button top may or may not fit as they vary in length.

Thanks Jason.

I will likely choose the VTC6 flat top, with 30Q flat top being the second choice. I don’t know how the internal resistance of the two compare but I suspect it is slightly higher on the VTC6 which would be OK if a 30Q works.

As TK said above, the 35E will work really well for run time. The LG MJ1 would be great too. They have more capacity, and are not quite as high drain, which would be ideal for this light, since maximum brightness is not the goal. I will just be using the unprotected flat tops that I already have.

….. So do we need to inform the guy, in the quoted post below; that broke the glass on his Sofirn SP33 that he is actually seeking a replacement window…. not a replacement lens??Sorry... I just couldn't resist. . .

So do we need to inform the guy, in the quoted post below; that broke the glass on his Sofirn SP33 that he is actually seeking a replacement window…. not a replacement lens??Sorry... I just couldn't resist. . .

Hawaiian Eyez wrote:

I have a stock SP33 that I accidentally dropped and the glass cracked… anyone know where I can get a good, inexpensive replacement lens?

Yep, we try to help.
This guy will have problems buying replacement lens for the house too..

So do we need to inform the guy, in the quoted post below; that broke the glass on his Sofirn SP33 that he is actually seeking a replacement window…. not a replacement lens??Sorry... I just couldn't resist. . .

Hawaiian Eyez wrote:

I have a stock SP33 that I accidentally dropped and the glass cracked… anyone know where I can get a good, inexpensive replacement lens?

Yep, we try to help.
This guy will have problems buying replacement lens for the house too..

… He certainly will. ..

—

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant

I think it will be difficult to measure current. You can’t take an easy tailcap reading.

I don’t think it will be too hard. Use one hand to hold your main jumper wire to the threads and the other end to the battery.
Then use your other hand and a wire or piece of metal to jumper power to the inner tube. It might be tricky to get two fast touches so as to activate Turbo, but it looks doable.

I don’t suppose this is possible, but since the FW3A is being shipped with a frosted lens leaning towards flood, and it is meant as an EDC light, for which a mixed beam would arguably be more suitable, what are the chances of having an extra lens type or two for variety as an optional extra to be selected when ordering if so inclined?

I certainly wouldn’t want to start sanding my ONLY lens, I would rather swop and experiment with spares, but separate orders mean more shipping and receiving fees, not cost effective on such small purchases.

It’s a narrow beam, lightly frosted lens which makes the beam look much nicer plus gives a little extra spill light. It should not lean towards being floody. Here is the 10511.

I doubt Lumintop would offer extra lenses, but maybe Neal would.

The problem is what other lens would they carry? MTN E carries 5 different ones and there’s probably more than that.

Maybe a clear version of the narrow beam, the 10507? I guess it would be the next most likely one people would want. Just keep in mind that it can produce some ugly artifacts which is why it’s not used in the first place.

ToyKeeper wrote:

With a 10507 optic the beam is basically just a circle, almost like a narrower version of how a zoomie looks in wide mode. At the edge of the circle it has an off-colored corona, and then outside of that is a barely perceptible spill area in the shape of a triangle. So for practical purposes it’s a hotspot-only beam with no significant spill, and the hotspot has a thin warm corona around the edge. It looks a lot like a blurry projection of the sun.

With a 10511 optic the beam is totally smooth and has no sudden changes in tint, temperature, or brightness. So I’m keeping the 10511 in mine.

ToyKeeper wrote:

I still think 10511 is Where It’s At.

For XP-G2, the official specs are:

10507: 4.8 cd/lm

10511: 5.5 cd/lm

For XP-G3, the ratings are lower:

10507: 3.1 cd/lm

10511: 2.7 cd/lm

Nichia 219c has similar ratings:

10507: 3.3 cd/lm

10511: 2.9 cd/lm

Not sure why the relative throwiness reverses sometimes, but the 10511’s throw increases if you polish the frosted part by rubbing it on fabric or something… and afterward it still has less corona artifacts than the 10507. It’s too bad they don’t seem to come in a non-frosted 10511 variety.

Here are a few configuration estimates, taking into account the optic specs and an estimated lumen count:

These are all totally theoretical though, using numbers from Carclo’s specs and measurements of similar lights. They’re probably pretty far off from reality. Mostly I just wanted to show that there are a variety of sweet spots for different use cases. The FW3A’s specified config is one of those sweet spots, but other options might be interesting later too.

Mostly, I just think the 10511’s beam looks a lot smoother, and the difference in throw is usually small. Here’s how they compare in two of my lights… 10507 on the left, 10511 on the right: