Wednesday, 7 April 2010

Have mentioned in my previous postings that "rest days" are wrongly called and today was no exception... I had decided to sleep late but unfortunately the 5h00 am wake up routine that we are in also works on rest days. So I had to kill time watching CNN waiting for the hotel breakfast buffet to open at 6h00... First time I am watching CNN in 3 months and nothing has changed... Bombings in Iraq and the English are confused about their future...

Today, on top of the normal rest day duties which includes laundry, purchasing of food, blog postings, shaving, and washing everything you own, I had on the agenda to attend the bike donation ceremony back at the TDA camp and to get my parcels sent from South Africa. One is coming hand delivered via Aneke a friend of Caroline the TDA nurse whilst the other one is supposed to be redirected from Dar es Salaam's DHL office to their Lilongwe branch. When I heard 2 weeks ago that the first parcel was held at the customs in Dar es Salaam, I immediately organised for a second packet to be resent via Aneke who happened to be in Pretoria that day. Thanks to a very fast action from my office staff at Junk Mail, all the items were repurchased in a few hours and sent via Aneke who was gonna join us here in Malawi. It was a wise move. The DHL office did confirm that it was absolutely no problem to redirect the parcel that was held in Dar es Salaam and even confirmed that it had arrived in Lilongwe... he he.... Well, today I found out that the parcel is still in Dar es Salaam at the custom... Plan B was the right thing to do and now I can enjoy new gloves, have extra tubes and replace the broken padding inside my helmet.

So, instead of driving around Lilongwe trying to find the DHL office, I now had a bit of extra time which I invested in a full body massage. My tired legs were screaming with pain and it was not the nicest massage I have had, but at least I got the pressure on my knees to loosen a bit. I wish we could get massages more often, they really make a difference, you feel so good after that. Unfortunately such luxuries are limited to rest days in high end hotels and so far I have only had 3 chances to enjoy such a treat. My total cycling time since Cairo is now almost 400 hours, so this comes to one massage every 130 hours of cycling....

After my massage, I took a quick walk to the nearest shop outside the hotel. I saw a nice looking restaurant called "Cappuccino". Perfect! I have not had a cappuccino in decades it feels, so I did not think twice and rushed inside already dreaming of the coffee flavour with a hint of cinnamon... Well, my dreams were short lived... Cappuccino had one espresso machine and it was broken... I should have known... This has happened again and again during this trip... Machines are broken and items on the menus are not available... But given the high level of development and comfort of Lilongwe, I got carried away and I was already thinking in European mode. So I let my frustrations go to the manager who was highly apologetic about the fact that Cappuccino did not have a working coffee machine..... When I told him that it was quite ridiculous that with such a name he had no coffee, he told me without joking that he was aware of the situation and was going to take the signage down!!!!! He he... I could not believe what I had just heard... I hinted that fixing the espresso machine would probably be a cheaper and faster option than re-branding his shop, but he just kept on laughing and was actually serious... I have to say that Africa keeps on surprising me, for the good and the bad... I just shook my head and went shopping without any cappuccino but an interesting story to share.

Last night we ventured to "the best Italian restaurant" in town accordingly to the Lonely planet guide book..... he he... Another good story spoiled by an eye witness... This "best Italian restaurant" did not have one item that came close to any Italian food. As a matter of fact I doubt if they even knew where Italie was... Anyway the lonely planet employees should also think about visiting the places they write about.... Quite ridiculous....

The afternoon was shared between finishing my "cleaning everything I own" duties and the bike donation ceremony. Making it back to camp took a bit longer than I had estimated due to the traffic jams of Lilongwe. Lilongwe is a strange city. It is made of two parts, the new and the old city, but you have to be told which one is which as everything looks alike. It is by far the cleanest and most modern city we have crossed so far and it looks like suburbs of Pretoria with leafy streets and shopping centers popping everywhere. This is the first time we actually can witness the commercial influence of South Africa. From Nedbank to Nandos, all the main South African chains are here. Even the buildings look alike. Lilongwe is also by far the most expensive place we have come across. For the first time we have taxis with seat belts, clean seats and in perfect condition. (charging first world prices of course). When I think back to the taxis of Khartoum or Addis, we are a world apart. I honestly did not expect Lilongwe to be so much more developed. Even the taxi drivers are friendly, calm and honest.... Way... That is a statement!

We donated 72 bicycles to 3 health care associations. This year, 32 bicycles went to Emmanuel International, 20 to Partners in Health, and another 20 to Canadian Physicians for Aid and Relief. That brings the total number of bicycles donated through the TDA Foundation to more than 350 for 2010, and more than 1500 bikes since 2003.

These bicycles donated here in Malawi are actually an interesting story on their own. They are old broken down or used bicycles coming from Canada and refurbished here in Malawi by an association called Africycle. This association has trained local staff to fix and rebuild these bikes collected on the other side of the planet.They are also very solid and will probably last longer than the cheaper versions produced in India and China. So the 72 bikes we donated today were purchased from Africycle for 100 euro each. This concept provides help both ways as it creates jobs for the people who fix them as well as relief for the people who receive them.. Great concept and a very efficient way to recycle. I have to once again stress the fact that I am very proud and pleased to have raised money for more than a 100 bikes thanks to you guys, it is really a great feeling to meet the people who can tell you exactly what a difference these bikes make to the people who received them. Well done!

We donated 71 bikes to 3 health care organisations. At this simple hand over
ceremony, the representatives of these associations told us how effective those
bicycles were and the impact they had on the community

Alison welcoming the South African high commissioner to the
TDA fundation bike hand over ceremony

This is also what we do on rest days, we swop and repair our tyres....
Each rider has a few set of different tyres for the different road conditions.
We don't have permanent access to these as they are kept on the roof
of the dinner truck. The TDA staff off loads all the tyres on rest days
(and some excpetional situations) so that we can change our tyres if needs be

I bended my disk brake rotor and a new one is on the way from
South Africa, in the meantime, I will be using the spare one
on my second set of wheels

Finally I received one of the two long awaited packages sent from
South Africa. The second one is still blocked at the customs in
Dar es Salaam... Biltong, new gloves, new tubes, new helmet
padding, a new pump, etc etc... This is Christmas!

COMMENTS AND MESSAGES FOR GERALD

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ROUTE MAP

The Tour D' Afrique Race

From Cairo to Cape Town....12 000 km, 10 countries, 96 days of cycling averaging 130 km each. 22 resting days. A total of 120 days to cross the continent and race with 40 over competitors.

This adventure race will challenge my body and mind like no other, crossing some of the most exotic places on earth, pedaling pass places like Kilimanjaro, Victoria falls, lake Malawi...

This race will also be about meeting people, sharing their lifes, their food, their culture.

Become a follower and you will receive regular updates and photos of this incredible adventure!

TRANSLATOR

ME

My name is Gerald Coniel, I am 45 y.o and I must be crazy!... But why be normal?...

HELP ME DONATE BIKES!

Each year the Tour D'Afrique organisation donates bicycles to health care associations in the countries we cross. One bike can deliver medicines up to 100 people a day. Last year 320 bikes were distributed... In 2010, we have donation ceremonies planned for Addis Ababa, Nairobi, Arusha, Lilongwe, Lusaka, Windhoek and Cape Town.

I will be handing over the bikes myself. You will see on this blog when, where, and to whom the bikes went.Join me in raising money for purchasing as many bikes as possible.www.tourdafrique.com/foundation

To participate, mail me at gconiel@andorra.ad100 euro buys one bike, it is the most efficient way to help I have ever heard. Get together with a few friends and offer one bike, make me proud! Imagine what an impact you can make with 100 euro!

MASAI STEPPE

MAP OF TANZANIA

MASAI STEPPE

SectionsFull Tour
Cairo to Cape TownPharaoh's Delight
Cairo to KhartoumThe Gorge
Khartoum to Addis AbabaMeltdown Madness
Addis Ababa to NairobiMasai Steppe
Nairobi to IringaMalawi Gin
Iringa to LilongweZambezi Zone
Lilongwe to Victoria FallsElephant Highway
Victoria Falls to WindhoekDiamond Coast
Windhoek to Cape TownMasai Steppe
Nairobi to Iringa
Start: March 14, Nairobi, Kenya
Finish: March 25, Iringa, Tanzania
Price: €950 Distance: 1,012km
Riding Days: 9 days
Resting Days: 3 days
(difficulty)
(exotic factor)
(comfort)
If scenes of Wildebeest migration and big cat kills on the Discovery or National Geographic Channel are your favourite vision of Africa, then this is the section of the Tour d'Afrique for you. One day south of Nairobi, you will arrive at the border of Tanzania and immediately spot the unmistakable Mount Kilimanjaro and its smaller sibling, Mount Meru. From there, it’s a day’s pedal to the rapidly growing and vibrant city of Arusha. As the gateway to such famous attractions as Serengeti National Park, Ngorogoro Crater, and “Kili,” Arusha is East Africa’s safari capital. Here riders are given 3 days off, affording them the opportunities to experience wild Africa at its most spectacular, to shop in the local stores and markets, or simply to rest and replenish their energies.
Heading south from Arusha, the red-cloaked Masai tribesmen will be your constant companions as you spin along roads with relatively little traffic, keeping an eye out for zebra and giraffe. At Lake Manyara you trade the tarmac for several challenging days of ascents and descents – the Masai Steppe – on a rougher gravel road, that can be treacherous in places if the rainy season has arrived. However the friendliness of the villagers, the roadside banana stands, and the sheer beauty of this unique and verdant land ensures that come rain or shine, this stretch is one of the most memorable on Tour. After passing through Tanzania’s modern capital of Dodoma, you hit pavement again shortly before the pleasant town of Iringa, which is the gateway to nearby Ruaha National Park, and a regional center of the Ismaili Islamic sect.

PLACES TRAVELLED IN KENYA

MELTDOWN MADNESS

South of Addis Ababa, the terrain changes again to rolling countryside interspersed with alkaline lakes. After passing Mount Guraghe and Lake Abaya, riders will arrive in Arba Minch (Forty Springs), which is renowned for its beautiful views, Crocodile farm, and nearby Nechisar National Park. In Yabello, you can visit the wildlife sanctuary where you might catch a glimpse at some of Africa's rarest birds such as the Prince Ruspoli Turaco. Most of the riding for this stretch is on reasonably good pavement, with one exception - a tough off-road day between Kanso and Yabello through remote villages inhabited by the Borena people.
The crossing from Ethiopia into Kenya at Moyale marks the beginning of the “meltdown” portion of this section. It takes 6 riding days to cross the unpaved lava expanse of northern Kenya’s Dida Galgalu desert, which for long stretches redefines the words bumpy and corrugated. At the midway point the market town of Marsabit, set on the slopes of an ancient volcano, offers a welcome respite before the “road” descends again into the arid lands that are home to the Samburu people and their herds of camels and cattle. Approaching Isiolo, riders rejoice at the sight of pavement, and the opportunity to have a well deserved beer or ice cream bar. From there, the route ascends and then descends the western slopes of majestic Mount Kenya, before crossing the equator in Nanyuki, which is a short day’s ride from Nairobi, East Africa’s largest city.
The “Meltdown” features some of the most diverse changes in scenery and riding conditions, from plateau to desert to savannah. Cycling the “Meltdown” in its entirety is an impressive accomplishment for any cyclist.

MAP OF ETHIOPIA

PLACES TREVELLED IN ETHIOPIA

THE GORGE

From Khartoum to the border of Ethiopia, the Tour passes through the “bread basket” of the Sudan. The countryside gradually changes as you cycle towards Ethiopia and witness the transformation from the Arabic Muslim world of northern Africa to the more tribal and traditional nature of the Horn of Africa.
Once in Ethiopia, the ride of your life begins. Ethiopia contains some of the most spectacular landscapes in the world as well as one of its most unique and ancient cultures. This section will challenge your body more than any other due to the high altitude riding, not least during the first two days in country when the Tour takes the rough but slowly improving road up onto the plateau from Metema to the Gondar road junction. The second of these days features the most climbing – some 2500 meters - of any day on tour.
The Ethiopian Highlands offer several fascinating stops including Gondar city with its 17th century castles, and Bahir Dar where you can visit ancient monasteries on islands in Lake Tana and the Blue Nile Falls. While some riders may hesitate to sample such wonders of Ethiopian cuisine as injera (flat bread), shuro wat (chick pea stew), and kitfo (steak tartare), no-one can resist the espresso and juice bars found in all the larger towns.
From a cycling standpoint, the highlight of this section will be the Blue Nile Gorge, a 1600-meter precipitous descent and ascent on a newly paved road that will test the mettle of cyclists of any caliber. Once you have conquered the Blue Nile Gorge, the beautiful terrain of the central Ethiopian plateau will whiz by as you spin towards the capital city of Addis Ababa. The descent from the eucalyptus forested hills that surround Addis into the downtown core is an experience you will not soon forget.

PHARAOH'S DELIGHT

The Tour d'Afrique starts at the legendary Pyramids of Giza, on the outskirts of Cairo. As one of the wonders of the world, the Pyramids are a perfect embarkation point for the intrepid journey ahead, and the Sphinx bows its head in respect as you cycle past and bid farewell to Africa’s largest city.
After riding to the Red Sea and down the coastal highway to Safaga, you climb inland and cross the rugged Eastern desert into Upper Egypt, joining the Nile River at Qena. In Luxor, the opportunity to explore the magnificent temple of Karnak and the Valleys of the Kings and Queens is one not to be missed. From there, the Route continues south along the banks of the mother Nile towards the Aswan Dam.
From Aswan you will travel overnight by boat down Lake Nasser and past the Abu Simbel monuments into Sudan, one of the world’s most remote and least visited countries. But as you will discover, the Sudanese are some of the world’s friendliest people. For many riders this is where the “real” Africa begins. With the Nile River as companion, you will spin past minarets and through palm grove villages that have hardly changed in hundreds of years. Change is however coming more rapidly now as the sandy tracks that the Tour used to traverse the Nubian desert on are replaced by smooth Chinese funded tarmac. This section ends with a convoy ride into the Sudanese capital city of Khartoum, which sits at the confluence of the Blue and White Nile rivers. After the heat and dust of the desert, Khartoum seems to be part oasis and part mirage, especially when one enters the air-conditioned ABSA shopping center, where milk shakes, gourmet coffees, a supermarket and even bowling can be found.
The "Pharaoh's Delight" is for those who want to feel the desert wind on their face and experience the romance of biking along one of the great rivers of the world through the lands of the Pharaohs, the Nubians and the Cush. At times you will feel like you are one of the first travelers to come upon these forgotten lands. And on a bicycle, that’s pretty much the truth.