So, everybody who buys an old bike posts about how it starts but doesn't go well at throttle. And the answer is to clean the jets and adjust the floats. Carburetors frighten and confuse me. EFI...computers, that's more my style. I could probably clean them out and stuff, but I came across this service. What do you guys think, for $125 could I save a shirtload of fuss or should I go for it myself?

Carole Cheesman to me

Due to high demand I may no longer have your type of Carbs available for an exchange. But, what I can do, is rebuild your carbs for $75.00 for a single Carb, $125.00 for twin Carbs, $175.00 for three Carbs, $200.00 for four Carbs, and $225.00 for sets of six Carbs, as long as I do not experience any major problems and as long as they are complete and no broken or missing parts. If I do not have to order parts, it will take approximately three to four weeks to get to your set and a couple days to complete your set. I do the rebuilds on a first come, first serve basis.

I totally strip down the carbs, soak Carb bodies and various parts, replace jets, needles, seats, seals , o-rings, and gaskets, as needed, adjust slides, adjust butterfly flaps by synchronizing them, set float levels , and set fuel/air mixture screws back to factory specifications. I do replace anything and everything that needs to be replaced. Any parts over $25.00 you will have to pay for. Such as, I cannot cover the cost of replacing the CV diaphragm . If purchased from the dealer, they can run over $100.00 EACH. I have several sources to order parts from and will attempt to get you the best price I can. Yes , I can professionally rebuild yours carbs, and make them run as though the manufacturer had intended them to run. I specialize in vintage Japanese carburetors. And yes, I can re-jet them to match the performance of any modifications you have made to your bike, but I must have all the information in advance. You will be charged for the custom order jetting..

I do all this for about a third of what it would cost you from a dealer, and most dealers do not like to work on carbs that are over 20 years old, mainly, because they are not familiar with them.
I am familiar with these carbs, take a lot of pride in my work and I can fix your carbs If I run into problems, such as, needing replacement diaphragms, I will let you know, and you can either find and purchase them, which is what I prefer, or I could find them for you and bill you for their price, plus a couple dollars to cover the postage from my sources. I will need to ask you to pay for these parts prior to me ordering the parts OR you can send me these parts, for me to install.

Due to the condition of some of the Carbs and availability of parts, it may be necessary for you to find another set of Carbs for parts. Then I would make one complete set from the two sets, and cut you a deal for any usable left over parts.

Because some of the Carburetors have been damaged through the mail, I want to stress that you need to pack these Carburetors well and make sure you insure them for their value to you. Also, make sure that the Carb has been drained of all fluids before shipping. All Carbs will be returned Fed-Ex, except those Carbs that are not in the continental U.S.A., those will be returned through the Postal Service. All are insured. Fed-ex will notify you of the tracking number as soon as I ship them. Fed-Ex may be more expensive, but I feel they are more reliable. You will pay for shipping both ways.
If you are interested in having your Carburetor rebuilt, send it to:
Sell Masters R Us,
41960 Marks Ridge Dr,
Sweet Home, OR 97386

The_AirHawk

03-13-2009 05:29 PM

Carb tuning is more "art" than "science". If you don't want to d!ck with 'em, sounds like money well-spent.

mscuddy

03-13-2009 06:17 PM

Ken, the carbs on that old R5 are brick-simple. Go on-line to Speed & Sport Yamaha in Bloomsberg PA, talk with Cindy, have her microfische the carbs and get all the consumable items (like o-rings, the float needle & seat, etc) and do it yourself. You can sinch the carbs easy enough with the old eyeball method. The best part is, you did it yourself and learned something. Don't get the slides in backwards though (easy to do on old Yamaha twins). The cut away goes to the front. Buy a Clymer manual for the settings on the float height. Have at it my man. Don't have some bozo rebuild it for you, if he fuc*s it up, he'll just blame the postman or something and you'll be out $125.00.

pushrod

03-13-2009 07:47 PM

Yeah!

What Matt said!

Make sure you take apart and re-assemble them over a big shop towel, preferably near the floor. You'll almost always drop a little part, and they bounce off into another dimension. The towel will help slow them down.

It sounds kinda girly, but with the additives in fuel and cleaners nowadays, it might be a good idea to wear those heavy plastic gloves.

Besides, manicures are getting right 'spensive!

Buzglyd

03-13-2009 09:00 PM

Don't listen to them. I'll pay your postage.

mscuddy

03-13-2009 09:48 PM

Yeah Ken, listen to a guy who can barely keep the bolts tight on a Huffy cruiser. Do it yourself, you'll be glad you did. And it makes for good bench racing (wrenching?) at the local watering hole.

Kenneth_Moore

03-14-2009 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mscuddy
(Post 207197)

Ken, the carbs on that old R5 are brick-simple. Go on-line to Speed & Sport Yamaha in Bloomsberg PA, talk with Cindy, have her microfische the carbs and get all the consumable items (like o-rings, the float needle & seat, etc) and do it yourself. You can sinch the carbs easy enough with the old eyeball method. The best part is, you did it yourself and learned something. Don't get the slides in backwards though (easy to do on old Yamaha twins). The cut away goes to the front. Buy a Clymer manual for the settings on the float height. Have at it my man. Don't have some bozo rebuild it for you, if he fuc*s it up, he'll just blame the postman or something and you'll be out $125.00.

Matt, THANK YOU! You just gave me a well needed kick in the ass. I'll call Cindy and order the parts and in the meantime pull them and start cleaning.

I remember this stuff years ago you'd buy in a small bucket; you could soak the carbs in to get the goo loose. Anything in particular best for loosening the varnish etc? Lacquer thinner, acetone, naptha, LSD?

seruzawa

03-14-2009 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kenneth_Moore
(Post 207214)

Matt, THANK YOU! You just gave me a well needed kick in the ass. I'll call Cindy and order the parts and in the meantime pull them and start cleaning.

I remember this stuff years ago you'd buy in a small bucket; you could soak the carbs in to get the goo loose. Anything in particular best for loosening the varnish etc? Lacquer thinner, acetone, naptha, LSD?

Dude! Jet-spray Gumout! Or the cheaper Auto-zone stuff. It's all the same.

If you have a seriously plugged passage in the carb get some soft mechanics wire and you can push it into the passage, work it around a bit and blow Gumout though it. Keep doing that and eventually you'll get it clear.

As has been siad those carbs are brick simple. Even longride could rebuild one!

Kenneth_Moore

03-14-2009 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The_AirHawk
(Post 207195)

Carb tuning is more "art" than "science". If you don't want to d!ck with 'em, sounds like money well-spent.

BUUUZZZZNNNNTTT!!! Wrong answer, Hawkisan. You now on Klazy Ken Plobation. One more wrong answer you on double secret plobation. You go now. You stupid.

Buzglyd

03-14-2009 07:16 AM

Speaking of such bikes. My new neighbor I have recently found out is a two-stroke nut. He's got a garage full of dirt bikes and the other day he brings home a RZ350!

It was sitting in his uncle's garage unused for ten years. It's got a dented tank, smashed fairing, bald tires, etc. etc. Well dang if he didn't get the thing running yesterday.

It's still a long way from completion, but I'll be around to claim credit when he finishes it!

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