FOOD; Making Vegetables an Integral Part of the Meal, Italian Style

VEGETABLES, it was said recently, are even better for us than we thought. And now that the markets are full of fresh young spring vegetables, it is the perfect time to think about healthful food, like pasta with vegetables. Even people who grimace at the thought of an evening without meat on the table seem happy to eat a main course that consists of such a combination.

Broccoli rape is an Italian version of broccoli, with a smaller head and a slightly bitter taste. It makes a superb sauce for pasta (and is also great with Italian sausages). Fennel looks rather like a bulbous head of celery, but it has a slight taste of anise. It is sometimes called Florence fennel so as not to be confused with herb fennel. It is superb pureed and mixed with broccoli in a delicately flavored risotto, which can be served as a main course or as a first course.

Young spring vegetables like carrots, asparagus, broccoli and peas, cooked just enough so that their flavors are brought out, are delicious on fresh linguine.

3. Heat oil in large skillet and saute the garlic until golden. Add broccoli rape with capers and saute until leaves are wilted and stalks are tender (about five minutes). Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. When the penne is al dente, drain and place in a heated serving bowl. Add broccoli rape and extra-virgin olive oil. Toss and serve, passing the Parmesan cheese separately.

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1. Steam fennel and broccoli separately until tender. Place in a food processor with a fourth cup of steaming water. Puree and season to taste with salt and pepper, and then set aside.

2. Heat butter and oil in a heavy frying pan and saute the shallots until they are soft. Add rice and saute for one to two minutes, until the grains turn opaque. Add a half cup of hot chicken stock and stir frequently. When it has been absorbed by the rice, add another half cup.

3. Add wine and cook until it is absorbed by the rice. Stirring frequently, continue adding more chicken stock, half a cup at a time, and cook for 15 or so minutes more. When rice is almost tender but still al dente, add pureed vegetables. Cook for a minute, then add the Parmesan cheese and the cream. Cook another minute, correct seasoning and serve.

1. Put six quarts salted water on to boil for linguine. Meanwhile, melt butter with olive oil in large frying pan. Add garlic and shallots and cook until soft. Add vegetables and saute for a minute. Add creme fraiche and cook until sauce is thickened.

2. Meanwhile, cook the linguine until al dente (it will take only a few minutes). Drain and place in serving bowl. Add vegetables and basil and toss. Season to taste. Sprinkle with a couple of tablespoons of Parmesan cheese and toss further. Serve more Parmesan cheese separately.

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A version of this article appears in print on April 25, 1993, on Page CN13 of the National edition with the headline: FOOD; Making Vegetables an Integral Part of the Meal, Italian Style. Order Reprints|Today's Paper|Subscribe