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Topic Review (Newest First)

04-08-2011 09:17 AM

billyruffn

Prop Speed. 3 1/2 months in 80+ deg. Caribbean waters = no barnacles and very little crusty worm. When the boat sits for a week and a few of those pesky wormy things afix themselves to the blades, they come off with the wipe of a hand. The unprotected Dynaplate 8" behind the prop is covered with all sorts of crap.

The stuff works. I guess the question is do you want to pay for something that works as well as diving on the boat every week or so? I bought the $240 small kit. I've gotten three prop applications from it. Why not see if you can find others in the yard who want to split the cost?

Warning: if you DIY-it, make sure you have two people available and follow the directions exactly. Also, as with most things -- half the battle is in the prep. Don't cut corners there.

04-08-2011 03:18 AM

jarcher

Quote:

Originally Posted by jarcher

Today I applied two coats os Aquagard Alumi-Kote, color black. The can said it works on aluminum and other non-ferris metals. It semed to adhere okay. I might do a light sanding and another coat tomorrow.

I'll let everyone know how it works, but the bottom will be getting cleaned weekly.

So here we are 1 year later. I was very disappointed with the Alumi-Kote. Last October, it was mostly gone, after about 6 months. This year I am going to try the Pettit stuff people have talked about in this thread. If that does not work, the following season I'll bite the bullet and go for the very expensive stuff. We'll see...

04-19-2010 09:03 AM

lancelot9898

Quote:

Originally Posted by T37Chef

. I remove any paint build up ever other year using a wire brush attachment on a drill followed by a wipe with thinner. It takes me about 30 minutes to do a through job. I do not use any primer. :

It takes me about a full day with wire brush attachment to remove the paint and primer from my max prop. However I'm also getting good results keeping the boat in the water for 3 years between haul outs here on the Cheaspeake. I do prime the prop with the interlux underwater metal products prior to putting on the hard bottom paint. Only 2 coats for each so as not to get a high build up.

04-19-2010 07:44 AM

SimonV

At my marina a number of folks with bronze props take them of cover them in lanolin and bake in an oven. it comes out looking like it has been varnished and feels very slick. Just an obsevation.

04-18-2010 11:54 PM

jarcher

Today I applied two coats os Aquagard Alumi-Kote, color black. The can said it works on aluminum and other non-ferris metals. It semed to adhere okay. I might do a light sanding and another coat tomorrow.

I'll let everyone know how it works, but the bottom will be getting cleaned weekly.

04-17-2010 10:41 AM

FarCry

I applied a product called Peller Clean by Seajet Seajetpaint in November of 2008 and just last week there were some very minor signs of fouling which were easily dislodged. This is the first time I've tried anything other than Micron 66 on my bronze two blade prop. Historically the fouling on the prop would require monthly agressive scraping within a year of a bottom job even though the bottom was still pretty clean. I plan to haul again in November 2010 and absolutley will utilize this product again. It is about one half the price of Prop Speed and came highly reccommended from both powerboaters and sailboaters.

04-16-2010 09:39 PM

T37Chef

light gray, is was getting dark and there was a flash

04-16-2010 09:31 PM

brak

T37, your paint is white - or is this just an effect of a digital photo? The one I used is fairly dark gray. I wonder.

04-16-2010 09:18 PM

T37Chef

Fwiw...

Unfortunately, I didn't make it to the boat before they power washed the bottom, (I wanted a pic showing a more realistic result) but here is a shot of the shaft and prop (don't mind the cutlass ) after more than 12 months in the water. You can see on the strut where a few barnacles were, but otherwise its pretty clean. This year I will remove whats left and apply fresh, last year I just ruffed it up a bit and did a re-coat.

04-14-2010 03:43 PM

T37Chef

Um, sounds odd to me, but what do I know...

Quote:

Originally Posted by brak

I know this is a really old thread, but I'd like to follow through (people rarely do and it is always interesting to me how things worked out).

So - the time referenced in my message above (3 years ago) I used zinc prop paint without a primer. It was off the prop completely in less than 2 months.

I did the same thing next year but cleaned the prop and used the primer first, also applied the same treatment to the bronze rudder gudgeons. The result - it adhered in some places (so much that I had to later power sand it off) while completely dissolved in others, in nice round swiss cheese pattern - again in just a few short months.

I.e. - I doubt it protects against much osmosis, if anything it either promotes it or at least simply gets removed very quickly. It also does not help in any perceptible way against barnacles, only making situation worse because now I have to remove both barnacles and that stuff. I ain't doing that anymore.

Speaking only for myself, I have used the Pettit Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier Coat on my Stainless Autostream prop and bronze shaft for the past four years with great results. The boat is located on Upper Chesapeake Bay - Patapsco River - Brackish Water. I remove any paint build up ever other year using a wire brush attachment on a drill followed by a wipe with thinner. It takes me about 30 minutes to do a through job. I do not use any primer. I apply per directions 2-3 coats with in 5 minutes of each other in 60 degree temp. http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare...ds/1179320.pdf

The boat was just pulled today, the zinc paint was last applied March of 2009, the boat is keep in the water year round. I will take pictures tomorrow evening and will hopefully have them posted to this thread by Saturday. I can tell you that I have a 99% Barnacle free prop and shaft, you'll see soon enough. Most everyone in the boat yard uses it as well with similar results?

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