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ever thought about buying a used Hx35 or Hx40 for about $150 bucks . Sending it to Doug to have it re built for you ?
that way , you can still use his name

^^^^^^^^^

Originally Posted by Beat the Heat

I am running with what companies helped me out with. I could not have done it without the companies that helped me out. Yes I have big brakes and big wheels that are not typical for a drag car, but you will see once it is all done that even though some of it is not drag specific it will be a very unique drag car for a very unique program. I am sure once I get to the higher horsepower I will upgrade more stuff to drag specific, but that time is not right now.

I would actually think that it looking like a street monster would help it out and show kids that you can have more fun on the track and be a lot more safe. That was my goal coming into this. Have something different that will grab kids attention to get them to come to the track. Just because you have wheels doesn't mean you can't race.

It is all good. I do not mind a little heated discussion about it all. Makes the mind think and gives me ideas for the future.

I kind of understand why some people are puzzled by some of the things in the build, especially those that have been at the strip and know what works and doesn't. The build is a dedicated drag car with a pretty decent job on the motor. It's just weird when there is that much attention to details with the motor and random R-comps are slapped on big boat-anchors.

I'm very familiar with the R-comps you have, and they have super stiff sidewalls (for cornering purposes), but that's the opposite of what you want for drag launches. On top of that, despite their low threadwear rating, they need some heat to start gripping and you will not get them to operating temp until after the start (by the time you're at your next pass, they'll be ice cold). It's kind of like using bowling shoes to go play basketball, it will work but not ideal and counterproductive when your building from scratch. Same goes for the wheels, they are working against you when they should be working for you... you may as well just sell or trade them for something more suitable for the job.

I understand everything you are pointing out and I actually really appreciate the input, but I cannot due to reasons I cannot stipulate on here. Stasis was the only company willing to help me get rid of my Audi A8L rep cement blocks. Now, in the future that is a different story. I plan on getting actual drag wheels with actual drag tires. You all will just have to come out to the track in Georgia and see how you fair against me on the track.

15 inch rims can be had for like 50 bux. Or you can find used drag radials or slicks for cheap on here. In the end, I think your brakes will need to be changed. Make sure you do a 3rd gear burnout to heat cycle those current tires, otherwise it's like Max said, waste of time. You'll be surprised how much they spin due to sidewall being so stiff GL

15 inch rims can be had for like 50 bux. Or you can find used drag radials or slicks for cheap on here. In the end, I think your brakes will need to be changed. Make sure you do a 3rd gear burnout to heat cycle those current tires, otherwise it's like Max said, waste of time. You'll be surprised how much they spin due to sidewall being so stiff GL

People have tried to get these to temp with a burnout, but that doesn't work!

The compound in these tires will get hot quickly enough (a 3 sec burnout is plenty), however they also loose heat in a hurry. By the time you're staged and ready to roll, the heat from the burnout is long gone.

Honestly, I am hoping for 13's. I am getting solid aluminum mounts and hopefully custom pre-loaded and dampened suspension as well to help with the wheel hop.

The more you modify the suspension the more wheel hop will disappear. My car came stock with 18's and when I first got it the wheel-hop was horrible, but by switching to the R32 suspension components w/ stiff spring/shock combo its eliminated. Unfortunetly I did most of the mods at once so I can't say for sure what element (LSD, control arms, R32 ksports,dogbone) did the trick. This was back when I was running a k04 as well, lots of low end torque and rolling burnout goodness.

I am hoping to get custom drag suspension from Bilstein. I was in contact with them last year, but have not heard anything back from them. I know they can customize the spring rates, dampening and pre-load.

Beat the Heat Frankenturbo F23 Drag Build

I am hoping to get custom drag suspension from Bilstein. I was in contact with them last year, but have not heard anything back from them. I know they can customize the spring rates, dampening and pre-load.

Not enough low speed rebound in the front (1-3 Hz region), and not enough rear compression (also in the low speed region of the valving).

Originally Posted by Beat the Heat

Figures there is no contact email for h and r on their website.

If you're going to go with custom spring and valving, then call Ramone at Bilstein California. The RSS are nothing but Bilstein inverted monotubes with H&R hardware (springs, collars and adjusters) with a more aggressive revalve geared for autobahn type environment. H&R doesn't offer revalving on them either, so you have to go to Bilstein California anyway. Personally, I'd get Ramone (the rebuild/revalve shop manager) and talk to him about getting a set of PSS custom valved with appropriate spring rates for the use of the car. If you need help with proper spring rate selection and valving recommendation, I'll gladly help you.

Thanks for the information. Do you have a contact email for him or phone number? If so send me a PM with it. I was dealing with Jose Gonzalez out in Bilstein California, but as I said before, no response from him.

I got the hood sprayed today. Installed it on the car and realized it needed about one more coat. I will get that done tomorrow. Put the front radiator clip on and then realized that it makes more sense to take it back off to put the tranny fluid in. I do not want to put it in when it is jacked up since it will not be level. Took the oem fenders off and hoping my ffe front clip comes in.