Kate Moss Isn’t the First Model to Run Her Own Agency

When news hit this week that Kate Moss would be starting her own talent agency, the fashion world’s interest was piqued. In the months since she announced her departure from Storm Models, the agency that had discovered her, many wondered what was next for the British supermodel. In keeping with her “never explain, never complain” mantra, she didn’t release a word of information about her latest venture until she was good and ready, letting the news out via an industry magazine cover story and newly launched Instagram account.

On paper the switch from being in front of the camera to behind the scenes might seem like a jump, but Moss is hardly the first model to use her runway experience to branch out. In 1967, Dutch model Wilhelmina Cooper founded her namesake agency in New York during a period when such things were almost unheard of. As one of the most famous faces of her era, Cooper held the record for most Vogue covers and helped to create some of the most iconic images of the ’50s and ’60s. Though not as infamous as Moss, Cooper bore the same elite status as both a recognizable face and a shrewd businesswoman. It was Cooper’s ability to spot the next star that led to the careers of Naomi Sims and Gia Carangi; her agency remains one of New York’s finest.

Bethann Hardison’s presence as an advocate for diversity in fashion has brought about a revolution when it comes to runway representation via the Diversity Coalition. Long before Hardison was urging designers and casting directors to rethink their homogenous lineups, she was an agent for change within the development sector of the industry. Founding Bethann Management in 1984, Hardison’s agency featured models of all colors and backgrounds and would eventually launch superstars such as Tyson Beckford, Roshumba Williams, and Veronica Webb. As the founder of one of the only diversity-minded agencies in the ’80s, Hardison was a trailblazer, prying open the doors for those who were underrepresented in the world of fashion imaging and advertising.

Models continue to shape the industry from within. Former Calvin Klein poster child Jenny Shimizu is now a prominent agent, while Taylor Warren who posed for Italian Vogue and H&M, now handles new faces at New York Models. Madisyn Ritland may not be as known as Moss, but her career is no less innovative. As one of the founders of New York agency The Lions, Ritland is part of a team that currently handles some of the biggest names around—Agyness Deyn, Karen Elson, and Irina Shayk among them. Still her in 20s, Ritland just might be the youngest to make the jump into management, and the continued success of The Lions speaks to her outside-the-box approach.

Moss has always been savvy when it comes to the way in which she presents herself and her projects. As one of the first models to leverage their image to promote clothing lines, fragrances, and beauty, she’s helped to shape the way models are marketed. The models that preceded her in the business of talent management set the bar high, but she’s proven herself more than capable as an entrepreneur. And, if the successes of those women prove anything, it’s that you’re only as good as the people you choose to invest time and resources in. For Moss to go the distance, the models she selects will have to be exemplary beyond her stamp of approval. In an interview with BoF, Moss insisted she wasn’t looking for “pretty people” and was hoping to seek out multi-talented performers instead. Clearly her eye for new faces is as sharp as her eye for fashion.