got a parts m at my folks place it has a huge hood and tank with super m painted on the hood(looks original). but it has a distilate tank and has two holes in the hood. i had the tank and hood at the show for sale and there was an intense discussion at one point over wheter it was a super or a regular m. any help? and how do you remove the shutter crankhandle?

He that tilleth his land shall be satisfied with bread: Proverbs 12:11

According to Guy Fay's data book, and to the parts cd, Super M was available as a dual fuel, so it could have had the dual tanks. Check the serial tag on the left side of bell housing. If a super M it will say SM

Chances are it is a regular M that someone or a dealer repainted many years ago and all they had on hand were super decals. Or perhaps the farmer/dealer wanted to have a "newer" tractor. My grandfather's super A had been repainted and regular A decals applied. Originality wasn't thought of much back then.

If you have not tried it yet , If it is off the tractor or where there is no fear of fire, soak it good with wd 40 or kroil heat up let set for a short while and hit it again with wd or kroil it will suck the oil right in the warm up again and punch it out. it will come loose , just paitence, drilling a roll pin can be tricky it will grab often. and you May damage the hole greatly. Have removed numerous tough rusted items with this method.Phil

Phillip W. Lenke wrote:drilling a roll pin can be tricky it will grab often. and you May damage the hole greatly.

That statement is worth repeating. Roll pins are made of really tough material. Your drill bit will drift into the softer surrounding material. I have never found one stuck that badly. If the surrounding part is well backed up, they knock out with a proper sized punch. Getting the right sized punch makes a big difference. Since they are hollow and springy, rust doesn't bind them in place the way it does other fasteners.