My name is Randy and I am a Community Manager in these here parts. In a previous life I had founded and run the Instructables Design Studio (RIP) @ Autodesk's Pier 9 Technology Center.
I'm also the author of the books 'Simple Bots,' and '62 Projects to Make with a Dead Computer'. I enjoy rideable robots, kaleidoscopes, microphotography, afternoon constitutionals, and baking.
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It's likely against your lease to be messing with the plumbing like this, but technically, yes, you can do this in any apartment. However, if you mess up you will end up both in violation of your lease and having to pay for damages. If probably better to ask your landlord really nicely, and have them do it for you. Or, at least, get permission from your landlord before you do it.

I don't know.If it doesn't you should be able to download a legacy version of the software. This page has core files available for Arduino 1.5:https://code.google.com/archive/p/arduino-tiny/This page has core files for ATTiny 1.6.5 or later:https://github.com/SpenceKonde/ATTinyCore

Are you trying to shoot indoors or outdoors? What is the lighting situation like?

I have never seen this before. I assume the dark blob in the back is what you are actually trying to shoot.My best guess is that you have a sensor metering problem with the camera circuitry (the darkness) or you have it set to black and white when it is color film. If it is a metering problem, try turning the lightness knob all the way up. Also, another thing to consider in terms of the darkness... are you holding down the shutter for long enough? You should hold the shutter down until you can hear it click shut on its own (or your images will be dark).My best guess in terms of the green blotch is that it is likely a light leak in the bellows or potentially elsewhere in the camera.Are you shooting with expired film? If the film is greatly expired or was stored improperly (or otherwise d...

I have never seen this before. I assume the dark blob in the back is what you are actually trying to shoot.My best guess is that you have a sensor metering problem with the camera circuitry (the darkness) or you have it set to black and white when it is color film. If it is a metering problem, try turning the lightness knob all the way up. Also, another thing to consider in terms of the darkness... are you holding down the shutter for long enough? You should hold the shutter down until you can hear it click shut on its own (or your images will be dark).My best guess in terms of the green blotch is that it is likely a light leak in the bellows or potentially elsewhere in the camera.Are you shooting with expired film? If the film is greatly expired or was stored improperly (or otherwise damaged), it might do strange things.You are not accidentally taking multiple exposures, right?

I don't remember, and I don't own the drum anymore. The current is not very high. Likely much less than 1 amp.If you did that, the drumstick would only travel in one direction, and the drumstick might have not enough recoil to bounce back on its own. You might be able to work something out with a DPDT pushbutton switch (to work as an H-bridge), but I don't know if that would be good for the motor because it would never turn off in the opposite (recoil) position.Alternately, you might be able to figure something out with a SPST pushbutton and a spring (for the recoil).

Honestly, I have never looked at the output wave. What you are describing sounds feasibly 'about right' (I think). The pot is basically mixing the two signals together into one signal. That wave is going to be some combination of the two.Being that it is sort of summing the two waves, I would think its probably correct that the amplitude increases.

If you view the 'clean' signal at the same time as the phase shifted signal, they should be the same signal, but the phase shifted one should be moving in and out of phase (at the rate determined by the LFO).One potentiometer controls the LFOThe other potentiometer mixes the two signals together before being output to the amp.

It should work with the bass, but I don't know what it will sound like. As for voice, you would want to match the mic level with a guitar input level. You don't want the mic signal coming in too high. That said, I don't know how well it would work. I'm sure it would make some sounds, but I am not sure any words would be understandable.

I found mine with help of the internet. You can probably find yours in school though. It might be harder for you though because I think there are far fewer Jennifers these days than there were when I grew up. You couldn't walk more than 100 feet without bumping into one. Jennifers were everywhere.

https://gifpop.io/

Oh cool! I had not seen that before, but that's real nice. I like the use of the street signs.

Hello!Thanks for the great overview.As the person who currently oversees contests on this site, I would just like to chime in for a moment about Step 4. Don't make what you think we want to see. Make what you are passionate about. What we like seeing is when people make things they really care about.But... if you want an inside tip, one thing that always grabs our attention is when a project is unique and there has not been 50 other similar projects posted to the site. Unfortunately, the four featured Instructable giveaway is no longer in effect. However, we are currently looking at new ways to reward authors. Stay tuned for that!Also, if I may ask, how many unpublished drafts do you have? It sounds like you might have quite the collection!

It's a problem on your end, but here is the code:/*Telepresence Robot - Drive Wheel Test CodeCode which tests the forward, backward, right and leftfunctionality of the telepresence robot base.*/// Include the servo library#include <Servo.h>// Tell the Arduino there are to continuous servosServo ContinuousServo1; Servo ContinuousServo2; void setup() {// Attach the continuous servos to pins 6 and 7ContinuousServo1.attach(6);ContinuousServo2.attach(7); // Start the continuous servos in a paused position// if they continue to spin slightly,// change these numbers until they stopContinuousServo1.write(94);ContinuousServo2.write(94);}void loop() {// Pick a random number between 0 and 3int range = random(4);// Switches routines based on the random number just selectedswitch (range) {//If...

It's a problem on your end, but here is the code:/*Telepresence Robot - Drive Wheel Test CodeCode which tests the forward, backward, right and leftfunctionality of the telepresence robot base.*/// Include the servo library#include <Servo.h>// Tell the Arduino there are to continuous servosServo ContinuousServo1; Servo ContinuousServo2; void setup() {// Attach the continuous servos to pins 6 and 7ContinuousServo1.attach(6);ContinuousServo2.attach(7); // Start the continuous servos in a paused position// if they continue to spin slightly,// change these numbers until they stopContinuousServo1.write(94);ContinuousServo2.write(94);}void loop() {// Pick a random number between 0 and 3int range = random(4);// Switches routines based on the random number just selectedswitch (range) {//If 0 is selected turn right and pause for a secondcase 0:right();delay(500);stopDriving();delay(1000);break;//If 1 is selected turn left and pause for a secondcase 1:left();delay(500);stopDriving();delay(1000);break;//If 2 is selected go forward and pause for a secondcase 2:forward();delay(500);stopDriving();delay(1000);break;//If 3 is selected go backward and pause for a secondcase 3:backward();delay(500);stopDriving();delay(1000);break;}// Pause for a millisecond for stability of the codedelay(1);}// Function to stop drivingvoid stopDriving() {ContinuousServo1.write(94);ContinuousServo2.write(94);}// Function to drive forwardsvoid forward(){ContinuousServo1.write(84);ContinuousServo2.write(104);}// Function to drive backwardsvoid backward(){ContinuousServo1.write(104);ContinuousServo2.write(84);}// Function to drive rightvoid right(){ContinuousServo1.write(104);ContinuousServo2.write(104);}// Function to drive leftvoid left(){ContinuousServo1.write(84);ContinuousServo2.write(84);}

I honestly don't know. I've never had to.This guide seems useful, albeit not land camera specific:https://www.instructables.com/id/Replace-the-light...For whatever it is worth, black electrical tape usually does an okay job on a temporary basis.

I don't know. I never tried. Right now the circuit is designed for a really small electrical signal coming in off of a guitar pickup. To send a human voice through the device you would need to reduce the volume a bit, and then I am not sure what it would sound like.

No, the battery won't drain. The stereo jack is acting as a switch. Ground gets connected when the mono plug is inserted. Otherwise, the power is off.Yes, this has true bypass.

I recently tried to convince my fiancé they were called banana slugs because they tasted like banana. As per usual, she did not believe me at all. Probably for the best, because I also just read an article the other day about an Australian teen who swallowed a slug on a dare and became paralyzed from the neck down. I guess you shouldn't eat real slugs.

Yeah. Instead of putting the speaker after the 10uF capacitor, you would want to build the line output circuit seen in the schematic here (the 10K, 4.7K resistors and 100K pot):http://www.flickriver.com/photos/22593138@N08/

All of the drums essentially use the same electronic. In the instructions I say to buy 6 of everything. You only need 1 of everything. Basically, you will need an Arduino, motor shield, 1-2 motors, a 12V power supply, and a USB cable.I would just follow the instructions for the snare drum part of my Instructable (and ignore the other drums).The code will need to be rewritten to play particular songs.However, the way my sample code is written, it should currently work with just 1 drum track.Is the STEM expo a nation-wide event, or a local event?

Did you bend the shield's V-in so that it is not plugged into the Arduino socket and apply 12V power separately to the shield?

All of the drums essentially use the same electronic. In the instructions I say to buy 6 of everything. You only need 1 of everything. Basically, you will need an Arduino, motor shield, 1-2 motors, a 12V power supply, and a USB cable.I would just follow the instructions for the snare drum part of my Instructable (and ignore the other drums).The code will need to be rewritten to play particular songs.However, the way my sample code is written, it should currently work with just 1 drum track.Is the STEM expo a nation-wide event, or a local event?

All of the drums essentially use the same electronics. In the instructions I say to buy 6 of everything. You only need 1 of everything. Basically, you will need an Arduino, motor shield, 1-2 motors, a 12V power supply, and a USB cable.I would just follow the instructions for the snare drum part of my Instructable (and ignore the other drums).The code will need to be rewritten to play particular songs.However, the way my sample code is written, it should currently work with just 1 drum track.Is the STEM expo a nation-wide event, or a local event?