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KU36's are close to semi slicks, but not quiet as good. The KU36's have a tread rating of 180 where as a semi slick will have a rating between 50 - 100. I only get around 10000 - 12500km out of a pair on the rear of my AW11, closer to 20000 if they are on the front. In 205/50R15, I only pay $152ea for them, which is a cracking price for the performance they deliver.

KU36's are close to semi slicks, but not quiet as good. The KU36's have a tread rating of 180 where as a semi slick will have a rating between 50 - 100. I only get around 10000 - 12500km out of a pair on the rear of my AW11, closer to 20000 if they are on the front. In 205/50R15, I only pay $152ea for them, which is a cracking price for the performance they deliver.

yea thats a real good price, kumho class them as a semi slick , how are they in the wet, the KU31's are awesome.

They are fairly reasonable in the wet, not quiet good as a tyre like the Toyo Proxes4. I find the tires to be rather predictable in the wet, and if you drive within their limits, it's easy to drive at a moderate pace without danger.

Knightrous' Australia Day - A story of success, failure and grinder sparks....

The day started off with the construction of a new gearbox mount to shift the 1MZFE 20mm forward to give more clearance around the boot firewall and stop the plenum form hitting it.

I set forth cutting up the old mount I made, to recover the mount center for the new one. Once recovered, I started milling it flat to use on the new one.
And it was good

Then it was welded to the new gearbox plate

And it was good

So I started on finishing a proper mount for the motor side, instead of the crap aluminium test jig.

And it was good...

Clearance was good... Plenum missed the firewall by around an 1" - 1.5"

Clearance to the engine cover was sweet...

Then I climbed under the car to check the clearance and angle of the sump...

As James May would put it, "OH COCK!"
The ground clearance was barely 3" once the suspension sagged down with the weight of the motor and it could only get lower when hitting bumps. Running over small children and dogs would now put the sump into fubar territory... In my midst of making new mounts, I had totally forgotten that these things are eccentric mounts, so when I rotated the mount for the gearbox 90 degrees and the motor mount 180 degrees, shit was now low, wife bashing low...

But, there was still some day light left, and still some inspiration to be had!
The motor mount, this was an easy fix, flip the mount back up the other way.

This restored the clearance back to a decent level

I can now run over small children and dog again without fear of losing my sump
But the motor is now on a bit of a lean...

So I have to chop my gearbox mount up for a second time and remove a good 0.5" - 1" from it to get the gearbox height back to where it should be....

As James May would put it, "OH COCK!"
The ground clearance was barely 3" once the suspension sagged down with the weight of the motor and it could only get lower when hitting bumps. Running over small children and dogs would now put the sump into fubar territory... In my midst of making new mounts, I had totally forgotten that these things are eccentric mounts, so when I rotated the mount for the gearbox 90 degrees and the motor mount 180 degrees, shit was now low, wife bashing low...

Classic. Wish I had your skills though. Is your sump 10cm off the ground at the new height? Don't want to give the police a reason to hassle you.

It's around 110mm to 120mm. I have a little bit of flexibility as it currently just has some lowered king springs in the rear that are suited for a 4AGE. I'll be replacing them with a set of HSD 7KG/MM springs on modified struts, like these ones I made for my other AW11 (TrackDub)

Time for another little story.
This time it's about how I had three AW11's in my driveway and why my AW11 is now engineless

It all started about a month ago, when I found a cheap AW11 with a 20V Silvertop motor in it, for sale in Brissy for $2k. I sent the advert to a mate on Facebook who was looking for a cheap, first car. Another friend of mine saw the post I put on facebook and decided he was keen to check it out. Long story short, my mate was short on cash, I lent him the extra in agreement that I got the 20V Silvertop out of it and he could have the P Plate legal 16V 4AGE from my MR2.

So we start with a white AW11
With a 4AGE 20V Silvertop

Then we hauled in my red AW11
With a 4AGE 16V

Mandatory Owner in Engine bay photo

Then we moved onto servicing the 16V ready for another 100000km of 4AGE reliability and performance. Made 89.9RWHP when I last had it dyno'd, which isn't bad for 20+ years old!

only 89.9RWHP from it... must be a big port blue top 4A-GE, my stock red top made 101.5RWHP on the dyno.

Yep, just your average bog stock 2nd gen bigport with 270000+km on it.

Anyway, the 20V conversion is ever so close to completion.

I finished off my C56 gearbox early sunday, after having swapped the C52 AW11 center gearbox casing onto the AE101 C56 gearbox.

Then after a few hours of putting the motor on the box and getting it under the car and lifted into place, it looked like this.

Since the exhaust was off the car, I decided to change the rear sway bar over from the stock AW11 swaybar to an SW20 rear sway bar. As you can see in the below photo, the SW20 sway bar is a much bigger bar.

Due to differences between the two cars, the mounts and clamps didn't match up, so I modified them with a hacksaw and hammer.

And this was the finished product
Will see how it goes once I finish the remaining work for the 20V conversion []