bathtub replacement with shower pan

I have little experience with plumbing , so this question might look silly to most of you lol.
I'm replacing bathtub with L/H drain with a shower base with center drain . Do I have add a vent to the system or just run an extension from the shower drain to the trap that is already in place ( from the old tub )?

You need to maintain the proper slope of the trap arm. But, keep in mind that it is the trap that stops sewer gasses from getting into the room. Having a long arm getting to the trap means it can accumulate soap scum, oils, hair, etc., and start to smell nasty. If the trap is directly beneath the drain, that significantly decreases.

While it can work, you'd be much better off using a pan with an offset drain, or moving the drain to be under then new drain's location.

My home is two years old. I had a tub installed (typical 60in end to end) with pre-fab wall panels on 3 sides when I had the house built. I have since changed my mind. I want a shower which was an option that I regret not getting. I have looked around online a bit and while I see some modular shower units (Sterling Enemble line) that are designed to "fit" right over where the tub was and would work for me, I see only 30in deep (front edge to back edge) and I want something deeper.

Some info to aid in recommendations. I am on a concrete slab so changing the drain location does not seem to me to be reasonable. I do not want to go the custom built, custom tiled route as for me the value is not there so pre-fab units are just fine with me.

If it is only a matter of cutting 3 feet of concrete to re-position the drain, it would be well worth doing. It may seem like a big deal to you, but it would not be for most of us. This is your chance to put yourself in a situation that you will not regret later.

There are several tileable systems out there that might work for you. www.schluter.com has one tub to shower conversion pan that has the drain on one end. But, with any of these, it's highly unlikely that the drain would line up perfectly, and would require cutting some concrete. Another that has some tileable prefab is www.wedi.de. Finding a prefab shower where the drain would not have to be changed is going to be hard. A second thing (and the inspector may give you a pass) is that a shower in the US requires a 2" drain, and your tub only requires a 1.5" drain. In many places, the smallest pipe you can install under a slab is 2", so you may already have a 2" drain, but it could have a 1.5" trap which would make for some problems.

There are several tileable systems out there that might work for you. www.schluter.com has one tub to shower conversion pan that has the drain on one end. But, with any of these, it's highly unlikely that the drain would line up perfectly, and would require cutting some concrete. Another that has some tileable prefab is www.wedi.de. Finding a prefab shower where the drain would not have to be changed is going to be hard. A second thing (and the inspector may give you a pass) is that a shower in the US requires a 2" drain, and your tub only requires a 1.5" drain. In many places, the smallest pipe you can install under a slab is 2", so you may already have a 2" drain, but it could have a 1.5" trap which would make for some problems.

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In the southeast with homes on slabs it is typical to "box" out the tub drain. This 12"x16" box is set and filled with dirt. After the concrete is poured and the walls frammed you dig the dirt out and connect your p-trap.

In my area any home build on a slab after around 1970 will have a 2" pipe if it was inspected and code was followed. You are correct that the inspectors would give a passs if a homeowner made the request.....atleast thats my experience. Inspectors really do not want to tango with a homeowner with city halls phone number because they know the electted city officials will basically allow any resonable request.

I rarely have to break any concrete but usually just dig the pouring tar and dirt out and cut the trap off and reposition the new PVC trap. With the typical shower running 2.5 GPM a 1.5 drain is no problem.

One of the most popular renovations we do here in Vancouver is just what you mentioned. Removing a tub for a shower.

I find the most trickiest part is firestopping around the new drain in a commercial or multi family housing project. I have found the fire stopping products from Hilti to be outstanding for this.

Since most tubs have their overflow at the back often replacing the tub for a linear shower drain installation works best for us. If your job is slab on grade this procedure becomes very easy and you do not need to move the drain location.

Always flood test your shower.

Have you picked a tile? Tile layout is King in any shower renovation. From fixture locations to shower niche locations and lighting.

When all is said and done, the project is not worth the cost and/or the aggravation to me.

Again, thanks all.

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The best way to do this is to find a builder (Like Me) and pick your tile and fixtures. They book a vacation some where warm that has pools, beaches and working hotel room showers. While you rest the workers (me and my crew) magically transform the space.

When you come home with a tan the bathroom is done.

How hard is that? As for cost...... "You can't take it with you! LOL" JW

johnwhipple, you live in a world that is unlike that of many of the people here in this forum.

There are a lot of people that would be pretty happy to just have their tub pulled out and replaced with a prefab shower. All the component parts to do this are readily available for about 500.

One of my co-workers got called to a trailer last week where a 100 gallon fish tank fell through the floor and broke the supply piping to the kitchen. The people have a few hundred into fixing the trailer and are pretty happy to have such a nice place to live.

johnwhipple, you live in a world that is unlike that of many of the people here in this forum.

There are a lot of people that would be pretty happy to just have their tub pulled out and replaced with a prefab shower. All the component parts to do this are readily available for about 500.

One of my co-workers got called to a trailer last week where a 100 gallon fish tank fell through the floor and broke the supply piping to the kitchen. The people have a few hundred into fixing the trailer and are pretty happy to have such a nice place to live.

The audience here varies; it might be good to remember that.

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I live in a home with plywood subfloors (have not finished my hardwood floors).

Me - my wife and three girls share a single tub-shower and have for three years (have not the money or time to finish the en-suite bath).

I understand that much of my work is only afforded by a select few.

I do remember that. I choose not to discuss the low end renovations. The cheap fixes. How to cut corners. It's not my style.

There is lots of helpful advice out there for that. Home depot, Lowes, Rona and the like filled with "Experts".

I think people come here to Terry's site to speak to Pro's - not Joe's.