The GnATTERbox

For discussion of the issues faced when building a model or layout - how to replicate wood, what glues to use, exactly how much weathering can a Gnat take, a good source of detailing accessories - you get the picture, I'm sure.

Well I screwed up.The Open gondola car will now be a coal storage.I found out that the wheel base is to long and by no means will it go around 9 1/2 inch radius curves.Oh well,salvaged the HO chassis that came from the Magic Train Car I used,shortened it and we'll see.The top part of the car will get a foundation and now serve as a coal storage on any future layout.
LIVE AN LEARN.....
Greetings
Chris

Happy evening/day ....
Well,I recycled the Magic Train chassis and turned it in to a side unloading
Coal Car.

I also had a pair of 3 axle trucks from an HO torpedo car and a Bachman log chassis added a card stock dump body. Dressed it up with some Plastruct parts
and we have a slag car.

I think it will all go in to some metal working industry module. I have some ideas based on Vulcan Iron Works but space restrictions will require some modifications.Thus the transfer table question.
As to the rolling stock.I am presently building a loco that will handle the slag traffic.Next will be a few more ore cars (2-3 max) and one more slag car.

Hi Glen,
thanks.But some of the praise has to go to a friend of mine Christoph(also on this forum),his method of treating the card stock with super glue is an integral part of the whole process.It gives it a metallic surface structure.Next a base coat of what ever color you desire(cheap car primer for me) and then I use a 2 part process with the stuff called:
Sophisticated Finishes by Triangle Coatings Inc .One is Metallic surfacer the other is antiquing rust solution.
They tell you in the instructions to let it dry over night,well I use the hair dryer on high and depending on the desired result put on multiple coats of the finisher.Then I let it dry over night.In the morning I put it outside for about an hour or 2.The moisture in the air changes the finish ,usually to the desired result.Next comes the final touch up with pigments and a final coat of Lusterless Flat.It seals the pigment and stops the "rusting" which will go on for some time.

Do wonder about that one car where it appears sideframe is below rail level. guaranteed to not make it through switches.

later, Forrest Today's scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality. -- Nikola Tesla, July, 1934

Hi,
well you are so right.This was just a short lived version of the car.I removed the trucks and changed it back to a 2 axle version.Had the car body been 10MM longer the 4 axle one would have worked..Love the HEAVY look but it just was no to be.

Hi chris came across your fireless loco . really brilliant got me think ing that some time back I to had a rivarossi chassi the same .after a good hunt round bingo ! I found it . and thought wouldn't mind have ing a bash at a fireless loco my self . but would like to convert chassi to DCC

DSCF0716.JPG (322.82 KiB) Viewed 2821 times

DSCF0716.JPG (322.82 KiB) Viewed 2821 times

. I have converted a few 0-4-0's by follow ing idiot proof guides but this one looks a bit different like wheel pick ups on one side only . has any one had a go at a conversion on this type be for . or is it one of those split frame pick ups . any advice or hints please

Hi KEVO,sorry for the late reply, was no on here for a while. It is a fun project you are embarking on. As to your chassis question,I can't help you there. Mine runs on track power and I never really checked if the chassis was split.You may want to check with the HO guys.Since the original Loco was a Rivarossi , Atlas or Lilliput Model. all of them sold the same Loco just with different names and boxes.There should be some modellers that converted them to DCC.Keep us posted on your progress.Best Chris

It sounds like with pick ups on only one side of the loco that the other side has uninsulated drivers, so the whole loco frames are at one rail polarity/voltage. One of the motor brushes will be connected by a wire to the pick ups, and the other motor brush will be connected directly to the motor casing. The motor fixing screws make the connection between the motor casing and loco frames. This is OK for analogue dc but both motor brushes must be isolated from the track power if you want to install a DCC decoder. The decoder will blow if track power is connected to one of the motor output leads.This may be of some help, it is for the 0-8-0 switcher, but the principle is the same https://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Rivarossi/0-8-0/0-8-0.htm

Crumbs steve ime glad ive just read your reply ive got a Hornby tts sound decoder I was going to have a play around with ile go through that link you have sent me and see if it leads me on the right path . I am a real novice with hard wire ing so i wouldn't want to blow it 1st time around . correct me if i am wrong but from what you say sounds like it is a split chassis thanks kev

A split chassis is (to quote a certain wood preservative company) "exactly what it says on the tin" - the main frames are held apart by insulating material, and the axles are electrically isolated in the middle, so there are no pickups. The wheels are electrically connected to the half of the axle it is mounted on. Each frame is at the same polarity as the rail it is above, connected to it by the wheels and axles via the bearings. A wire from each side frame is then connected to the motor. The principle is here: http://www.lbscrmodels.co.uk/loco%20chassis%204.htmlThe Rivarossi chassis has pickups on one side, which rub on the backs of the wheels on that side - these wheels are insulated from the axles. The wheels on the other side are not insulated from the axles so transmit power to the mainframes via the bearings. A wire from the pickups connects to one motor brush holder which is insulated from the motor body. The other brush is electrically common with the motor body and the mainframes. If you ever take out the wheelsets make sure you put them back the correct way round as an uninsulated wheel on the opposite side of the frames from the other uninsulated wheel results in a track power short though the frames. Ask me how I know......