I have used this finish with good results for over 20 years. I think it is great and very easy to use. the best bet is to thin the first coat by 25% and wash it over the item to be finished. Give it ten minutes then wipe it off and go on as instructed.

I have used this finish with good results for over 20 years. I think it is great and very easy to use. the best bet is to thin the first coat by 25% and wash it over the item to be finished. Give it ten minutes then wipe it off and go on as instructed.

Has anyone used the General Finishes Arm-R-Seal (gloss) over the Rockler pure tung oil? If so, how long should I let the tung oil cure before applying Arm-R-Seal? And do I need to prep the tung finish (ie: 0000 steel wool, etc) prior as well?

I made a silverware chest for my great grandmother's wedding set and have about 4 coats of pure tung oil on it. I picked up a pint of this finish for use on another project and absolutely LOVE the results! So much so that I really want to use it on the exterior of the quarter-sawn white oak & lacewood chest, but not at the expense of sanding down the tung oil. Also, any recommendations for masking off areas I don't want the finish to get on (specifically the inside edges of the top and drawer). It's easier to control where it goes, being a wipe on finish, but any extra protection would be great.

BEST ANSWER:Yes, though for the satin rather than the gloss. I put on 5 coats of Tung and then three of Arm-R-Seal on a red oak panel. I did not sand between the Tung coats, but did sand and hand-buff between the Arm-R-Seal coats to denib and smooth. It worked fine, though I waited 2 weeks+ before adding that topcoat. Also, I only put the poly on one side of the panel.

Any poly will help with durability, and 4 coats of Tung is probably not enough protection, so do it. Poly can always go over a drying oil, and there's little need to sand under it since the poly makes it irrelevant.

I tried masking off my tenons and mortises from the Tung, with mediocre results. Having used the poly, I think it might work slightly better.

BEST ANSWER:Yes, though for the satin rather than the gloss. I put on 5 coats of Tung and then three of Arm-R-Seal on a red oak panel. I did not sand between the Tung coats, but did sand and hand-buff between the Arm-R-Seal coats to denib and smooth. It worked fine, though I waited 2 weeks+ before adding that topcoat. Also, I only put the poly on one side of the panel.

Any poly will help with durability, and 4 coats of Tung is probably not enough protection, so do it. Poly can always go over a drying oil, and there's little need to sand under it since the poly makes it irrelevant.

I tried masking off my tenons and mortises from the Tung, with mediocre results. Having used the poly, I think it might work slightly better.

BEST ANSWER:Staining redwood with a grey stain would take away from its beautiful wood color. Aside from that, I don't believe that the stain would mesh well with the oil in the finish. Take a pine, or a maple piece and apply a grey stain.

Its true that redwood starts out with a striking reddish brown color but if allowed to age naturally it turns grey. So staining with a grey stain would actually be easier to maintain in the long run. Its true that once you stain wood it would seem that any finish that has oil in it would not soak into the wood as well as intended, but we have stained an oak desk and then used this topcoat with terrific results.

BEST ANSWER:Staining redwood with a grey stain would take away from its beautiful wood color. Aside from that, I don't believe that the stain would mesh well with the oil in the finish. Take a pine, or a maple piece and apply a grey stain.

Its true that redwood starts out with a striking reddish brown color but if allowed to age naturally it turns grey. So staining with a grey stain would actually be easier to maintain in the long run. Its true that once you stain wood it would seem that any finish that has oil in it would not soak into the wood as well as intended, but we have stained an oak desk and then used this topcoat with terrific results.

I'm sure you have already answered this but i wanted to make sure I got it right. I'm building a dining/kitchen table and I'm going to stain the top an ebony tone while painting the base an off white satin. I will use an oil based stain and then top coat with ar-r-seal Urethane. Am I on the right track? I spent too much money on this project to screw it up. My wife would brain me.

just stated a project with a walnut wood slab for a bathroom countertop....not sure about the sheen...gloss or semi-gloss...I don't want it to be glass like!..my question....how glossy is the gloss product?thanks

BEST ANSWER:Billy, Not sure you gave enough information so I will assume the counter top is for a sink rather than cosmetics. Firstly, walnut is not the greatest wood for heavy moisture exposure, so you have to really protect the surface and any cut edges that might become wet. Never assume any edge will stay dry over a long period of use. With water exposure as a top concern, I would not recommend this particular product for a sink counter top, though I am a fan of General finishes. Furthermore, I opt for high gloss whenever possible, largely for its transparency, which promotes better grain enhancement. Keep in mind the oil will not offer any significant moisture protection; it's the varnish that does it. As for gloss, I have not seen a really high gloss like lacquer or a multicoat varnish finish. I might suggest you look for a water based, polyurethane product as its ease of application and low toxicity make it attractive for your project while offering good durability and very good water protection.As always, luck with it. Mike

BEST ANSWER:Billy, Not sure you gave enough information so I will assume the counter top is for a sink rather than cosmetics. Firstly, walnut is not the greatest wood for heavy moisture exposure, so you have to really protect the surface and any cut edges that might become wet. Never assume any edge will stay dry over a long period of use. With water exposure as a top concern, I would not recommend this particular product for a sink counter top, though I am a fan of General finishes. Furthermore, I opt for high gloss whenever possible, largely for its transparency, which promotes better grain enhancement. Keep in mind the oil will not offer any significant moisture protection; it's the varnish that does it. As for gloss, I have not seen a really high gloss like lacquer or a multicoat varnish finish. I might suggest you look for a water based, polyurethane product as its ease of application and low toxicity make it attractive for your project while offering good durability and very good water protection.As always, luck with it. Mike

General Finishes Am-R-Seal urethane gloss or semi gloss are similar in sheen, if not the same, as other products they compete with. I use General Finishes about 80% of the time in my shop. They are my “go to” product. That’s not to say I don’t use others. It all depends on the project. You could go to any retailer who sells finishes and feel confident comparing their sheen to the results you are looking for.

BEST ANSWER:Absolutely. Make sure all excess gel coat is wiped off and allowed to dry thoroughly. If your final finish coat(s) is going to be Arm-R-Seal, you'll want to use several coats because they go on thin and need to be built up.

Thank you for advise! Another question you might be able to address is my mahogany front door a man some 15 years ago finished it for me from new wood. I've lost contact with him. Anyway it has faded really badly. Original finish was gorgeous. He brought all this equipment here and did it and sidelights that would rival any fine piece of furniture. I've been told by another refinisher to sand with 220 and stain with min wax oil followed by minwax poly. Do you have suggestions for a better solution? My experience with these products on exterior doors hasn't been great. Ellen

BEST ANSWER:Absolutely. Make sure all excess gel coat is wiped off and allowed to dry thoroughly. If your final finish coat(s) is going to be Arm-R-Seal, you'll want to use several coats because they go on thin and need to be built up.

Thank you for advise! Another question you might be able to address is my mahogany front door a man some 15 years ago finished it for me from new wood. I've lost contact with him. Anyway it has faded really badly. Original finish was gorgeous. He brought all this equipment here and did it and sidelights that would rival any fine piece of furniture. I've been told by another refinisher to sand with 220 and stain with min wax oil followed by minwax poly. Do you have suggestions for a better solution? My experience with these products on exterior doors hasn't been great. Ellen

BEST ANSWER:You did not mention if this was a new can of General Finish or an old or used can. If it is a new can pick up a paint can opener from any paint store, hardware store, or home supply store, often they are free. Looking at the top of the General Finish can identify the outside most bead or edge. Place the paint can opener into the slot created by the bead and pry the inner lid up. Repeat this every few inches along the entire length of the can until you have safely removed the lid. If this was a used can of finish you may have left enough of the product in the crease of the can where the lid closes on the can that it hardened sealing the can tightly. To prevent this from happening in the future wipe any excess liquid up before you reseal the can.

Thanks, Warren. It is a new can, but my usual paint-can-opener wouldn't open it because of the much, much deeper lid. It raised the lid the usual amount, sufficient for a "normal" paint can, but not enough for this can. Is a "special" opener required?

Lawrence, one of the reasons I answer questions on this blog is to learn myself. Your's is one of those opportunities to learn. My contact at General Finishes has just left for the day. I will contact him tomorrow and find out.

BEST ANSWER:You did not mention if this was a new can of General Finish or an old or used can. If it is a new can pick up a paint can opener from any paint store, hardware store, or home supply store, often they are free. Looking at the top of the General Finish can identify the outside most bead or edge. Place the paint can opener into the slot created by the bead and pry the inner lid up. Repeat this every few inches along the entire length of the can until you have safely removed the lid. If this was a used can of finish you may have left enough of the product in the crease of the can where the lid closes on the can that it hardened sealing the can tightly. To prevent this from happening in the future wipe any excess liquid up before you reseal the can.

Thanks, Warren. It is a new can, but my usual paint-can-opener wouldn't open it because of the much, much deeper lid. It raised the lid the usual amount, sufficient for a "normal" paint can, but not enough for this can. Is a "special" opener required?

Lawrence, one of the reasons I answer questions on this blog is to learn myself. Your's is one of those opportunities to learn. My contact at General Finishes has just left for the day. I will contact him tomorrow and find out.

I'm finishing a 47" round pedestal kitchen table, how much Arm R Seal should I buy? Will a quart cover the table with 3 coats?

A shopper
on Apr 23, 2015

BEST ANSWER:Hello Out There,A simple and good question but the answer could be a bit complicated. I don't know the wood in question and whether the pedestal and base are wood, as well. If all are soft and porous, and you want to coat all surfaces (at least one underneath), just barely enough is my guess. But do you really want high gloss for a kitchen table, which is very different from a dining room table? Keep in mind that the protection needed for a kitchen table top solely rests with the urethane component. GF makes a wipe on satin gel with a higher urethane content but Behlen makes a table top urethane varnish that is probably best for this application. You could seal the table with the ArmRSeal (or blonde shellac) and topcoat with something else. It also depends on what final color you want and whether that means using an oil based stain, which my local Rockler does not carry. Lastly, if you have the time, let each higher content urethane varnish coat dry out well between coats for the best results, which means days at a time. Be patient and your results will be better. Do have fun. Hope this helps. Regards mike

BEST ANSWER:Hello Out There,A simple and good question but the answer could be a bit complicated. I don't know the wood in question and whether the pedestal and base are wood, as well. If all are soft and porous, and you want to coat all surfaces (at least one underneath), just barely enough is my guess. But do you really want high gloss for a kitchen table, which is very different from a dining room table? Keep in mind that the protection needed for a kitchen table top solely rests with the urethane component. GF makes a wipe on satin gel with a higher urethane content but Behlen makes a table top urethane varnish that is probably best for this application. You could seal the table with the ArmRSeal (or blonde shellac) and topcoat with something else. It also depends on what final color you want and whether that means using an oil based stain, which my local Rockler does not carry. Lastly, if you have the time, let each higher content urethane varnish coat dry out well between coats for the best results, which means days at a time. Be patient and your results will be better. Do have fun. Hope this helps. Regards mike

For a wood surface that will be subject to wear and tear, and more specifically moisture from glasses and spills, I would not hesitate to double your coats to 5-6. However, to answer your question: I don't think that 1 quart will cover an average size table with 3 coats. I would buy 2 quarts. Good luck with your project.

Reviews

I searched and searched for the perfect finish for my kitchen island. I am so very happy with the look. It's still in the process of drying before using and it looks like glass. I applied five thin coats with gentle sanding between each after using a rosewood stain. The finish looks as though you could reach into it. I'm a happy beginner here.

A great product. Wipe on thin coats with a very fine, soft cloth and the finish is perfect. Dries fast, so you can build up a thicker finish in short time. It does exactly what the manufacturer claims, provides a professional looking finish.

I think this stuff is an excellent product. I have used it on small jewelry and music boxes and on large cabinets of Cherry, Walnut, Hickory, and Pine. I have not sprayed it-just used a brush or rag. I am better as far as uniformity on the smaller projects. On larger I am not as good as people that spray when trying to get a glass surface.

I've used many different finishes over the years, and always seemed to be looking for something better. About a year ago, I started buying things to test - I grabbed this and that and put the cans on the shelf for a future test. When our railing's finish needed to be repaired, I grabbed the can of Arm-R-Seal Oil & Urethane Topcoat-Gloss, and I was actually shocked at how good it is. This is a very easy-to-use and forgiving finish, and the results are top notch. I have stopped testing... This stuff is awesome!

ArrnRSeal seems to be nearly idiot proof. I wipe it on with a blue shop towel, and if you move in long steady (Not too fast) strokes, it performs magnificently. Sure it takes more coats than brush on poly, but the ease of application is worth it. I live in the desert, so I get fast dry time. I am using it on small projects like picture frames, and I can crank out coats in 3 hours drying time. Although the technique mentioned in this thread goes against manufacturer directions, it works very well . See amateur60's post: community.woodmagazine.com/t5/Finishing-and-Refinishing/Arm-r-seal-finishing-questions/td-p/414322

This worked better than any poly I have used. I wiped a few layers on to build, then one with a soft bristle brush. Be careful of foam brushes, or brush very lightly. This builds quickly and dries hard as a rock.

Best clear finish I have found. Brings out natural wood color and vibrancy very well.Really excellent flattening. Fast build. Very durable. I have recommended it many times. A bit slower to cure than other finishes but well worth the minor extra waiting.

I found this to be an excellent product. It went on easily, and I was able to mix other things to it like naptha and boiled linseed oil to get it do do exactly what I wanted. and since it is already thinned to be wiped it is a great all around go to finish.