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Topic Review (Newest First)

04-29-2010 02:28 AM

MRGM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberdork

Still need to clear. Been sidetracked with a 89 Mustang GT I bought as a project

same here

04-28-2010 08:25 PM

cyberdork

Still need to clear. Been sidetracked with a 89 Mustang GT I bought as a project

04-28-2010 07:10 PM

MRGM

updates (question mark)

04-18-2010 04:51 AM

deadbodyman

I've done that many times.

04-17-2010 01:21 PM

cyberdork

I ALMOST forgot the peice on the right in the pic where the peices are hanging on the wall. Was just about to disassemble my gun and clean it and realized it was still hanging there. I only used half a quart of paint to paint all of those peices, 4 coats (8:4:1 ratio so 8 ounches of paint turn into 13, and I spray really thin to avoid runs since I'm a noobie). I'm hoping it's going to be halfway durable Next comes clear.

04-17-2010 09:50 AM

deadbodyman

your way ahead of me,I'm still priming little pieces

04-17-2010 09:16 AM

cyberdork

04-13-2010 12:18 AM

cutterbond

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberdork

Apply clear? If so, wetsand with 2000?

If its in primer, wet sand it with 600 or 800 grit before laying down your base coat, then clear, then after the clear is cured, wet sand with 1500-2000 grit and buff/polish.

There isn't anything made to stick to 2000 grit, I seen 1000 grit color sanding base, but 2000 grit is nibbing dust out of clear before buffing and polishing only.

If you have it in base coat already, and it's been in base coat for more then a few hours you have to wet sand the base coat with 600-1000 grit, then put on another coat of base coat before clearing.

You can't sand base coat without reapplying another coat of base on top of it to cover the scratches, or you will see the scratches after you clear it.

04-08-2010 05:43 PM

cyberdork

Apply clear? If so, wetsand with 2000?

04-07-2010 12:33 AM

cutterbond

Quote:

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

spray the primer and sand it off to cover imperfections, putty the larger ones

It looks like you can sand that down close, re-prime and block it out with 400.

If you are spraying a base clear metallic it has to be smooth or the metallic will pool into the creases and look darker in those spots, especially a silver or a gold, white will also show surface imperfections but it will be less noticeable, a black you can get away with much more.

I also like spraying on rainy days, I use window cleaner instead of wax n grease remover because it flashes off faster, cheap tack cloths are way too tacky, cheap Viva paper towels work great for me, and a water trap on your compressor is a good investment, if you can't afford a nice one get a cheap one, and use the disposable filters on your gun.http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/asset...es/sgf-300.jpg

04-05-2010 02:50 PM

deadbodyman

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberdork

I'm really not trying to be a pain in the ***, but you said don't leave a heavy build up of primer, but then also use the primer as the putty.

???????

spray the primer and sand it off to cover imperfections, putty the larger ones

04-05-2010 11:43 AM

302 Z28

Primer can be built up in places to fill shallow gauges and pin holes, it will not however fill large gaps or holes the way body filler will.

Vince

04-05-2010 11:16 AM

cyberdork

I'm really not trying to be a pain in the ***, but you said don't leave a heavy build up of primer, but then also use the primer as the putty.

???????

04-05-2010 07:57 AM

deadbodyman

Sand them (180) but NOT down to the plastic.
prime, not putty
,if anything still sticks out (like a gouge) then putty that and prime again. but try not to leave a heavy buildup of primer.stop sanding if you hit plastis (it'll fuzz up and be hard to get rid of)
you can sand it almost all off .
In other words ...use the primer as a putty it'll be more flexable and easier to sand

04-05-2010 07:11 AM

cyberdork

It's one of the plastic peices. Should I sand back down to plastic or putty over the primer, then reprime?

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