Whether it's an art festival, a movie in the park or just a nice day to shop and stroll, Winter Park's Park Avenue beckons visitors. It's a straight shot of shops and eateries that has something to suit every taste - especially for foodies. This guide wanders down Park Avenue, its adjacent side streets, and takes in a few blocks of New England Avenue to give you a glimpse of places to eat in and around Hannibal Square. Pace yourself, there's a lot to savor along the way.

The Bistro on Park Avenue has a lot of lines in the water: The Winter Park eatery is one part German restaurant with a hefty measure of New Orleans influence. Starters and desserts rock, but in between there are pitfalls.

Tucked off Park Avenue in the Hidden Garden, the Bistro was once home to Maison des Crepes, Restaurant du Park and Jardins du Castillon. The current tenant has several rooms: a narrow bar, a small private dining room, a retail loft, a booth-lined dining roomwith its own bar, and a solarium.

Exuding warmth and charm even on a rainy night, the solarium is the best choice for a table. The other spaces seem to be in search of an identity.

My dining companions and I arrived separately and at no time did anyone greet us for seating. We all commented later that we thought we had come in the wrong door. The server saw us peeking around the corner and let us choose a table in the glass-enclosed space. We relaxed and began our meal.

The nine fresh-shucked oysters Rockefeller ($17) was a great start: Clean flavors of the plump shellfish mingled nicely with freshly grated Parmesan, chopped spinach and diced tomatoes. A squeeze of lemon juice at the table enlivened the mixture quite nicely.

Entrees, however, fell flat.

The crawfish etouffee ($27) suffered from an overcooked roux, the cooked mixture of flour and fat that is the foundation of great sauces. The finish left a burned flavor on the palate.

Our crab-cake dinner ($29) was touted as a house specialty "with mostly lump meat, hardly any filler." The two cakes were almost all filler with a few ivory chunks of crab in the mix. And the dish came with a generous ladle of etouffee sauce, which added an unpleasant smolder to the plate. The fluffy rice and perfectly sautéed seasonal vegetables outshone both.

The Bistro steak grillades ($18) featuredmarinated filet tips with mushrooms, onions, green bell peppers and tomatoes. The beef was not filet-tender, and the dish's only saving grace was the rice and sautéed vegetables. The entree was missing grits, a key component of this New Orleans specialty.

During the service I was spotted by a Bistro manager. Most restaurateurs and chefs respectfully know the critic is just a guest. But this manager repeatedly returned to our table, never making eye contact with my companions and ignoring other guests. When I dine, it's not about me. It's about how the entire operation works. My career of "cops to quiche" has made me a stealth eavesdropper and observer. If you see me, I may not be "working." And if I am, I am just another paying guest.

One other thing was bothersome: When we were full, the manager repeatedly wanted to know why we had not finished to the last crumb or drop of sauce. It was awkward even with our response of "being full" or "saving room for dessert."

Bistro on Park has an enviable location but needs to focus on entrees and that first contact with guests. I have no doubt the skill set is there.