Ok I figure I'd start this. Admins do as you will, this could turn out to save people a lot of time and money if sticky.

Everyone please just follow suite here, I'll make any suggestion you have to this topic so that its better and easier to follow. I figure its best for us all to chime in with the following for starters.
Ratings1 no good, does not work2 shows some sign of functionality. 3 playable with issues4 most all functions work, one or two minor issues5 perfect / playable
Sorted by color now, suggested by t0x1n

edit: If you have problems with this specific controller, feel free to PM me.

CodeJunkies wireless classic controller
From: Brewski606
wiimote: Wii Wireless Retro Controller (identified as RVL-CNT-01)
brand: Datel Codejunkies
bought from : http://us.codejunkies.com/Products/Wii-W...00622.aspx
Bluetooth : various
Bluetooth ID: HID\VID_057E&PID_0306
Working: All
not working: none
notes: This is a wireless classic controller. No Wiimote required. Works with every BT stack I have used. Also compatible with GlovePIE. I use it as Dinput and Xinput on other games and steam but requires ppjoy and x360ce.

From: Pinky
Dolphin: 3.0-867-dirty
Wiimote: Nintendo Wii Remote + Nintendo Motion Plus Adapter + Nunchuck
Brand: Nintendo
Bought from: Pre-owned from GAME (UK) Total cost was £37
Bluetooth ID: Nintendo RVL-CNT-01
Bluetooth: BELKIN - F8T016NG Mini Bluetooth Adapter (using the Microsoft bluetooth stack)
Brand: Belkin
Bought from: Currys £8
Sensor bar: Candles at the moment as am waiting on my wireless bar arriving
Bought from: I found them in the cupboard, god knows where the candles were bought from Wink
OS: Windows 8 Pro with Media Center 64Bit
Working: Works well, no issues in game so far.
Not working: If batteries run out or remote turned off, you may have to remove the device in bluetooth and re-pair. Sometimes involves a re-boot of the OS in order to do this properly.
Resolution to re-pairing issue: Used Wiipair - I need to do more testing but both taking the batteries out and re-booting the OS did not lose the pairing and the wiimote is ready to use - http://www.richlynch.com/code/wiipair
Notes: The Belkin USB bluetooth adapter doesn't appear to work in a USB 3.0 port, so make sure you have a spare legacy USB port free in order to use it. Didn't use the Belkin drivers, just put in the USB bluetooth adapter and let windows install.

From: 2green
Dolphin: 3.0-716-dirty
wiimote: New 2 in 1 Motion Plus.
brand: Chinese / unknown
bought from : E-bay, Sold new by several sellers.
Bluetooth : Trust 4.0 Bluetooth dongle
Bluetooth ID: (will fill this in later)
Sensor bar: Speedlink wireless sensor bar (black)
Bought from: Tweakers.net
OS: Ubuntu 12.04
Working: Everything.
not working: - plus functionality seems to be buggy
Wii controller plus worked with dolphin on Ubuntu 12.04 without installing any drivers. No need to make a Bluetooth connection first. Just run Dolphin, select 'real wii mote' and press 1 + 2 on controller. Works perfect. Will update this review after the weekend when I had time to play a few more games.

From madeinspain
Dolphin:3.0-692
wiimote:RVL-CNT-01-TR
brand:NINTENDO
bought from:SHOP
Bluetooth ID:
OS:WIN-XP
Not working:
works perfect, just after install, until you close windows,
to return to. not access the game but if it connects and is detected in dolphin
Working:
1-close icon blue soleil and dolphin
2-open task manager-processes
3-close: explorer.exe, find all the processes starting with uppercase and cerrarlos.tambien those suspected to be bt or something like a bluetooth assistant (sorry, due to target them)
4-choose-file-new task (run) - type explorer and press ok

notes:my blue soleil is a older version purchased with the bt dongle(I only speak Spanish) I hope I have helped solve the problem with tr Control

Cons: the bar I bought is quite badly built, the leds aren't strong enough (low wattage) and works only at 1-1.5 m of distance (and not even smoothly). Two candles work better. Anyway, it's cheap and with the usb mod you don't need batteries...

Sensor bar: Wii Infrared Ray Inductor Console Wireless
Bought from: TradeMe (New Zealand)
OS: Windows 7 x64
Working: Everything, cursor is a little jumpy, but that could be because the batteries weren't fully charged (will post back when they are, will record video if necessary provided anyone knows how to "fix" the issue)

From: jateelover
Dolphin: 3.0-427
wiimote: iPhone (jailbreak app iController)
brand: Apple
Wifi Connection
OS:Mac 10.7 Lion
Working: Works well as a controller, accelerometer is more accurate than the Wii for me. Buttons work fine, but its a touchscreen phone or ipod, so your fingers slip off. Good in a pinch
not working:pointer barely moves at all. not usable for pointer
notes: Good in a pinch. I just downloaded Dolphin, wanted to try it. Jailbroken iPhone, app in Cydia is called iController. Works over wifi, really easy to set up. Just choose emulated Wiimote. Works really well in Tennis and Mariokart, along with NFS hot pursuit (all the games I have). I'll probably get wiimotes eventually, but its good to have and know for when you have multiplayer going on or dead controls haha.

From: ulao
Dolphin: 3.0 dirty 235wiimote: RVL-003brand: no brand found on this devicebought from : http://www.miniinthebox.comBluetooth ID: Nintendo RVL-CNT-01Bar: using 50 watt lights.OS: Win7 32bitWorking: speaker, all buttons, all motions, links up well, no droppingnot working: IR does not work 100% with bar or candles.
notes:
Everything works with this wand including the motion plug add-on. The
only issue is that the IR does not respond in game. I some cases I can
make it work but not well enough to play games.Resolution or reason for failure: Use the mouse for the point with hybird mode. May need to removed the mouse assignments once game has begun ( i.e skyward )

From: greyfox213
Dolphin: r7719m
Wiimote: Brand new Ninteno Wii MotionPlus Inside
brand: nintendo
bought from
Bluetooth ID: Nintendo RVL-CNT-01-TR
OS: Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Working Was able to successfully get my OS to recognize and connect the wiimote to my computer and it shows up in devices as Nintendo RVL-CNT-01-TR. When I get into Dolphin and Wiimote settings and change it to Real Wiimote
not Working: will not pair up to Dolphin
notes: I have tried both the Pair and Refresh buttons with no luck. The wiimote will just continue to flash all four lights without successfully pairing. I have also tried using Bluesoleil and GlovePIE with unfortunately the same results. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.
Resolution or reason for failure: No solution for TRs yet. http://forums.dolphin-emu.org/showt...?tid=19948

> its best to get the motion plus add on , not the internal ( for now )

> Wii-bars are tricky atm. It's questionable whether or not the power source to the bar matters(see below). I have zero luck with a wireless off brand 4.5 volts ( 3 batteries ) where my friend has a 6 volt Duracell ( 4 batteries ) working perfectly. I have convert the wii bar to an external 12 volt power supply and I love the results. Candles didn't work at all for me and other report the same. I was able to get two 50 watt lights to work but iffy at best. Just got a version two ( the 3 LED per side version with OEM styleplug ) and I ran 7.5 volts to it with the best results ever. I can use my wii-mote up to 10 feet with no jitter.
> The smaller/simpler BT the better
> some games give you trouble disconnecting but not others??? Check "alternate Wiimote timing" on those games.
> Any device that may use a power supply can make things worse ( lots of interference ). Put the Bluetooth dongle out in the open if possible. At a minimum at the front of the computer.

You should be aware that this is the wavelength of the light emitted and has nothing to do with its intensity (1nm = 10^-9m = 10^-5mm = 0.00001mm). Also, the voltage of the bar doesn't tell you anything about its intensity.

good to know. Meany say the wave lengths make a difference in receiving. One would ask, how can you tell what X bar puts out? Also, assuming the power the light puts out would make a difference as well. If so why do the wireless bards run off of 4.5 where the wii uses a 12 volt source. If you have an LED and increase the voltage this will change the brightness, just as changing the resistance ( lower ) increases the brightness.

(01-12-2012, 05:21 AM)ulao Wrote: good to know. Meany say the wave lengths make a difference in receiving. One would ask, how can you tell what X bar puts out? Also, assuming the power the light puts out would make a difference as well. If so why do the wireless bards run off of 4.5 where the wii uses a 12 volt source. If you have an LED and increase the voltage this will change the brightness, just as changing the resistance ( lower ) increases the brightness.

Brightness or "Power" would be the amount of current times the voltage level at a given point measured in watts.

Sure, but you don't know how those LEDs are connected to the power source internally, they might be in parallel in one of the bars and in series in the other one, and there might be additional resistors included somewhere. You just can't know if you don't unscrew it. Unscrewing it and measuring the voltage directly at the LEDs would indeed tell you something.

Measuring the power the bar takes is slightly better, it at least gives you some information. However, it's not a very reliable value, as one of the models might be more efficient than the other one, or the LEDs used in one model match the detector wavelength better.

The real energy emitted is difficult to measure with household means. I think most motion detectors work with infrared, so if you have one, you might be able to use it for that (however you'd need to move the bar with a stick or so in order not to stand in the way... could be a fun experiment ;D). Doesn't make much sense, tough.

The wavelength is indeed connected to "how good it works", Most detectors detect a specific wavelength, a digital camera will detect something like 400 to 800nm, which is the same as your eyes. Your microwave uses waves with wavelengths around 15 centimeters. Those IR sensors detect wavelengths around 1000nm = 1um; that's why candles work so well, if you look at this diagram:http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0e/BlackbodySpectrum_loglog_150dpi_de.png (the horizontal axis is wavelength, and the sensors you use detect the waves best where the "1" is)
Candles have a temperature of around 1400°C, so you see they emit most light in that wavelength (so most light they emit is actually infrared, and not visible; that's (at least part of) why lighting bulbs are so ineffective, by the way).