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I chose an ISP frame because it looks a bit cleaner and because it includes a cleanly integrated tail light (I ride in the dark a lot). I'm using an internal expander seat post that Rob makes for his bikes. But you are right, I could use a titanium seatpost at near minimum insertion to provider a cantilever that would improve comfort. In fact, that's what Rob recommended.

I haven't weighed the frame, it's still with Rob so he will probably weigh it. The bike's total weight should come out to around 13.5 lbs with clinchers, near or just under 13 with the AX Lightness/Dash tubular wheelset, and closer to 14 with my bombproof Nemesis/Campagnolo tubular wheelset.

We've changed a few things since Rob first estimated the weight so it may be a little different in the end. Again, I'm perfectly aware that the CF head tube insert is unlikely to be anything more than cosmetic and provide a bit of weight savings. I'm not part of the cult of stiffness; from personal experience I think a more flexy bike is better for long distances. My randonneur is built from 0.7/0.4/0.7 skinny tubing and it feels great.

So I just got final weights. It's 13.95 lbs with the clincher wheel set (with Campagnolo SR cassette and tail light), 12.99 lbs with the AX lightness/Dash wheel set and a Miche Supertype Cassette. It will be somewhere between there with the regular-duty tubular wheel set.

Regarding bags: I can get by with a decent-size seat bag plus convenience stores. My long-distance rides are not races, so no problem stopping for refills. It's possible that I'll still use my randonneur bike for 250k+ rides since it has a nice big handlebar bag (not to mention generator lights). And I'll certainly still use my randonneur bke for the really rough stuff.

Long-distance on tubulars: I know this is a no no, but I preseal with Caffelatex and I carry a spare with me. To be honest I've only done up to ~120 mile rides on tubulars. I would be hesitant to do unsupported rides much longer than that on tubulars as there is just too great a chance of a DNF if I kill the spare.

jdp211 wrote:I hate to say this, but this is the first English build that I'm not crazy about. Maybe its the tall head tube, but I'm sure it will serve its purpose well. Good choice in parts, though.

No problem. I totally agree that from an aesthetic standpoint more drop and a smaller head tube would have been great. But it's built for a single purpose--long-distance riding--and it's also built to accommodate the stupid crushed disc in my neck. It's not at all reflective of the way Rob prefers to build his race bikes.

I also think it would look better without the pump under the top tube. Alas, I'm not going on a 200-mile ride relying on a couple of CO2 cartridges or a tiny mini pump.

Not saying I dislike it, there's definitely something to be said for a purpose built bike. If you compare it to some of Rob's other builds, its not as aesthetically pleasing. Have you had a chance to ride it or that dash saddle yet?

I like the build. I like that it is a purpose built light weight bike that is build for comfort. Not everyone can ride a slammed front end and I will have to turn all of my stems up now that my back is having major issues. I think for long distance rides that you need comfort over EGO, this is an amazing build. I like the way it looks with the taller headtube rather than jacking up the front end with spacers and and high stem. This looks much better. I love the little details which are missed on most people that have not seen Rob's work.

I cannot get enough of those pencil thin seatstays on these English builds. Looks great, I too use a frame pump on my Moots for longer rides where speed is not a concern, I like to dial in my tire pressure even if I flat which you cannot do with air cartridges. Congrats on the execution and love that crankset.