Lately, I've said screw it all-together with scraping pyrex. I now line a pyrex dish (one that fits nicely in my vac chamber) with parchment paper, one piece for bottom and sides. When I've recovered enough butane out of my Tami setup, I pour the remainder with all the cannabinoids into the dish and place in a warm pot of water outside to evap the majority of the remaining 'tane. Then it gets heated to around 110*f and placed in the vac chamber, rubber hose connectors from a break-bleeding kit and tube connect the chamber to my vac pump and the power is switched on. I repeat the heating/vac'ing process until I see no more bubbles forming in the chamber. After, it as simple as folding the parchment repeatedly to collect the oil into a small lump and transfer it to a suitable vessel.

Lately, I've said screw it all-together with scraping pyrex. I now line a pyrex dish (one that fits nicely in my vac chamber) with parchment paper, one piece for bottom and sides. When I've recovered enough butane out of my Tami setup, I pour the remainder with all the cannabinoids into the dish and place in a warm pot of water outside to evap the majority of the remaining 'tane. Then it gets heated to around 110*f and placed in the vac chamber, rubber hose connectors from a break-bleeding kit and tube connect the chamber to my vac pump and the power is switched on. I repeat the heating/vac'ing process until I see no more bubbles forming in the chamber. After, it as simple as folding the parchment repeatedly to collect the oil into a small lump and transfer it to a suitable vessel.

i am bumping this thread because im still considering getting a vacuum chamber and pump. anyway, will vac purging give me a more shatter like return from doing ISO or EverClear washes?

or am i stuck with viscous returns because im using ISO/EC and not butane...?

i really wanna be able to handle my return, but as it stands now it usually melts on skin contact for the most part. then sticks to everything. i use a hot plate to purge currently and that has really improved my product. if a vac chamber can get me shatter from a solvent wash then i am gonna cop one soon.

i am bumping this thread because im still considering getting a vacuum chamber and pump. anyway, will vac purging give me a more shatter like return from doing ISO or EverClear washes?

or am i stuck with viscous returns because im using ISO/EC and not butane...?

i really wanna be able to handle my return, but as it stands now it usually melts on skin contact for the most part. then sticks to everything. i use a hot plate to purge currently and that has really improved my product. if a vac chamber can get me shatter from a solvent wash then i am gonna cop one soon.

any help is appreciated!

Click to expand...

All right, time for one of my theories. I was actually going to start a thread, but I'm not sure if I have enough data to back up my claim.

I'm starting to think that shatter is caused by high amounts of thca. So shatter happens with a high extraction of non-decarboxilated thc. If you are cooking off the alcohol, you won't get shatter, I think. As much has been my observation, at least.

Plant waxes will fight this (shatter), causing the more taffy like budders.

If you use a golden reusable filter after a <30 second wash with all materials frozen, you should get shatter. Or if it auto-waxes (happens due to climate sometimes) it will be a nice white crumble. The short wash will limit your yeild, but you can always do a second wash.

A vac purge will help you get shatter over cooking off the solvent, but I do not think it will produce shatter anymore than just air or fan drying. The is just conjecture at this point, but it fits with my observations as well as some anecdotal evidence.

All right, time for one of my theories. I was actually going to start a thread, but I'm not sure if I have enough data to back up my claim.

I'm starting to think that shatter is caused by high amounts of thca. So shatter happens with a high extraction of non-decarboxilated thc. If you are cooking off the alcohol, you won't get shatter, I think. As much has been my observation, at least. Plant waxes will fight this (shatter), causing the more taffy like budders.

If you use a golden reusable filter after a <30 second wash with all materials frozen, you should get shatter. Or if it auto-waxes (happens due to climate sometimes) it will be a nice white crumble. The short wash will limit your yeild, but you can always do a second wash.

A vac purge will help you get shatter over cooking off the solvent, but I do not think it will produce shatter anymore than just air or fan drying. The is just conjecture at this point, but it fits with my observations as well as some anecdotal evidence.

Click to expand...

thanks!

so your saying that using heat to purge is more likely to cause a viscous return? should i avoid the heat purge altogether and just get the vac setup instead?

^^^^Fake Name's post matches up with my experiences. Heat purged qwiso will be oily and air purged or vacuum purged will be shatter. Well I haven't vacuumed purged anything before but its no different than air evaporating when it comes to qwiso.

Don't heat your next batch of qwiso, I guarantee you it'll be shatter. That is if you extract it correctly and from what I've seen you do.

just for the record tho its an ISO extraction followed by winterizing it in EverClear and filtered again. i am determined to produce shatter consistently so i will try again w/out heat. before i started heat purging i only evaped it with a fan. then let it sit around for a while longer hoping that all the solvent is gone. even then i never really got shatter that i could handle or roll into a ball. i suppose i should add that most of these were ABV washes or reclaim... so that may have something to do with it.

im currently sourcing some new fresh material to start with. gonna do a frozen ISO wash then filter (gold tone and paper), then redissolve in EC and place in freezer, then filter again (same), then evap using a fan only. after this is all evaped and collected can i should be able to roll it into a ball yes...?

Doing that, I don't think you'll be able to roll it in a ball. Maybe if you do it on slick sheets or some such, but off pyrex it may end up super shatter, breaking off into a fine dust of shatter. When its like this, its hard to press together, though over time at room temp it will form together. It is hard as Fuck to scrape up, I would imagine, and will go flying everywhere. And whatever happens, never get shatter in your eye, where goggles if you have to, trust me. But again, this is more a concern off pyrex.

And you might get lucky where the layer is consistent enough where you can pull it up all together, and that will normally roll into a ball. It tends to look like a thin amber film. But I think your best bet to get this is something were you could fold and press it together instead of scrapping, it more workable once its together. Once you have it rolling it is just a matter of heating it between your fingers first.

I'm not saying a non stick surface will change the consistency, but it should help you achieve your desired end product, shatter likes to stick to shatter, once enough of it is together at least.

yeah im planning on lining my pyrex dish with some OS slick sheet and filtering/pouring directly into that to evap. then i should be able to pull it all up in one piece of which should roll... at least i hope. nothing will seep into or through the OS slick sheet will it?

i also have the small oil slick duo pads. i was going to use them directly on the hot plate, but i suppose i wont be using them for that anymore.

I wouldn't cheap out on the pump as I purchased a vac purge kit that incl a 2.5cfm pump that advertizes 25-29" Hg, but in my area can only pull a maximum of 26" Hg where it prefer to hit the optimum (from what I've read in the past), the full 29" Hg for a proper purge.

I'm saving up for a 4-5 cfm upgrade pump to meet those kinda pulls.

As far as achieving SHATTER consistency with qwiso's, I'm more apt to say the reason is due to ABV/resin content more than anything. I've yet to ever get a solid shatter when attempt those, but 'always' get shatter (yes, with a double boiler heat purge) with or without a vac purge as long as I'm using good bud and with a short wash under 25 seconds (15-20 preferred).

I've read so many claims that it's strain related, but can't qualify that with my own findings.

Aside from the vac purging I now do... I first learned to proper qwiso from this video (and it includes crude polarizing to remove waxes/fats) that left a powder like shatter like quality:

Hey smokum, does the double boiler boil the Iso for the whole time and you still get shatter? How long does it take to purge? I still think it could be enough thca causing the shatter, since the double boiler is controlled heat, but it would depend on time. The abv oil and reclaim won't shatter up and will fight the consistency when when mixed in with shatter, from what i've seen. Also, ive heated shatters to make them easier to deal with, and eventually they go back to kinda shatter, but not to the same level of shatter-ness.

Anyone know pure gold, does it bubble when dabbed, or does it melt clean? If it bubbles it is decarboxilating, so that would squash my theory (letting me move onto the next one). I don't think it is strain dependent either, everything seems to shatter when done 'right.' Anyone have any other ideas?

Once my main pot of water starts boiling I adjust the temp to only maintain a very mild/min bubbling, place the second piece on, then my dish (I actually use a steamer set up used for veggies I have as its the perfect size for my dish to sit on overlapping the top of the pot, so essentially only using the steam heat).

I use my eyes and nose to tell me when to stop. The ISO doesn't actually boil itself, rather the heat from the steam hitting the bottom of my dish only creates enough heat to evaporate the ISO. Once my eyes see that the ISO is mostly gone, and the contents changes smell to more of a 'hashy' smell, I remove the dish from the steamer (as it still is retaining 'some' heat) and place it on a dishtowel to finish. I do this long before the oil starts to turn darker ! as there is no point in 'overcooking' and wasting volatiles.

Since getting the vac purge set up, I now usually don't even let the ISO completely boil/evap off since I know I'll be vac'ing a few times and applying mild heat with a heat gun thru the vac process to keep the oil viscous enough between my pulls for the vac to raise the solution and off gas. I usually am satisfied by the 4th vac pull, but have done anywhere from 3-12 pulls and have decided a good measure is the halfway mark of 6 pulls to feel secure that I've vac'ed off what I intended to.

I havn't yet tried qwiso onto my oil slick pads, but I do vac purge on top of the mini pad that fits in my chamber.

Although I don't polarize like the video anymore (only because I'm usually pressed for time when making concentrate ), I would like to try at some point the redissolving with ethanol, sticking that mix in the freezer to coagulate the fats/waxes, re filter, and purge again.

But I'll have to wait until spring to play some more as I prefer to do any of my concentrate play OUTSIDE for safety sake and peace of mind (BHO or QWISO), and its just too damn cold and dry at this time of year to do that (especially with butane and the chance of a static spark).

I've never had PureGold... so I have no idea, as all my 'play' is with what I or a close friend have grown ourselves.