Lahore (Punjabi: لہور; Urdu: لاہور‎) is Pakistan's second largest city after Karachi, and the capital of the north-eastern Punjab province. It is widely considered the country's cultural capital. The heart of Lahore is the Walled or Inner City, a very densely populated area of about one square kilometre.

Founded in legendary times, and a cultural centre for over a thousand years, Lahore has many attractions for the tourist. The Mughal and Sikh legacy survives in the Lahore Fort, Badshahi Mosque and Gurdwara, the Mall is lined with colonial-gothic buildings from the British Raj, and the suburbs of Gulberg and Defence feature palatial mansions and trendy shopping districts.

Lahore is the second largest city in Pakistan with a population of roughly 8.5 million. The traditional capital of Punjab for a thousand years, it had been the cultural center of Northern India extending from Peshawar to New Delhi. The origins of Lahore are shrouded in the mists of antiquity but Lahore is undoubtedly ancient.

Today, Lahore is certainly worth a visit - but don't come expecting a tranquil city overflowing with history, art and culture - these qualities do exist but are hidden under the surface of a sprawling, traffic clogged and polluted south Asian city. Forward planning is recommended if the tourist is going to get the most out of what Lahore has to offer - the time of year to visit, the choice of hotel, the restaurants to dine at, the art galleries and the shopping areas to frequent are all key to getting the most out of your stay.

Lahore is a relatively friendly and liberal city. There is an old saying, that in every Lahori, there is a Mughal prince. The city has known ages of cultural, intellectual, musical, literary and humanistic evolution, which has consequently led to the fermentation and over fermentation of this rich brew we call Lahore.

Legend has it that it was founded about 4,000 years ago by Loh, son of Rama, the hero of the Hindu epic, the Ramayana. Reminiscent of its hoary past are the remains of a subterranean temple attributed to Rama, in the northern part of the Royal Fort. Lahore is at least 2,000 years old. After Islam came to South Asia, it became a center of learning, and attracted some of the region's greatest mystics, writers and artists. The people of Lahore, when they want to emphasize the uniqueness of their town say "Lahore, Lahore aye" (Lahore is Lahore). Lahore is the city of poets, artists and (until very recently) the center of the Pakistani film industry. It has the largest number of educational institutions in the country and some of the finest gardens in the continent. Apart from being the cultural and academic center of the country, Lahore has the finest Mughal architecture in Pakistan. For more than 200 years (beginning from about 1524), Lahore was a thriving cultural center of the Mughal Empire, and Mughal emperors beautified Lahore, with palaces, gardens and mosques.

Hiuen Tsang, the famous 7th century Chinese pilgrim, gave a vivid description of Lahore. Lying on the main trade and invasion routes to South Asia, Lahore has been ruled and plundered by a number of dynasties. Muslim rule began here when Qutub-ud-din Aibak was crowned in Lahore in 1206 and became the first Muslim Sultan of the Subcontinent.

Lahore waxed and waned in importance during the Sultanate. However, it touched the zenith of its glory during the Mughal rule from 1524 to 1752. The Mughals, who were famous as builders, gave Lahore some of its finest architectural monuments, many of which today are no longer.

Lahore was Akbar’s capital from 1584 to 1598. He built the massive Lahore Fort on the foundations of a previous fort, and enclosed the city within a red brick wall boasting 12 gates. Jahangir and Shah Jahan (who was born in Lahore) extended the fort, built palaces and tombs, and laid out gardens.

Jahangir loved the city, and he and his wife Noor Jahan are buried at Shahdara on the outskirts of Lahore. Aurangzeb (1658-1707) gave Lahore its most famous monuments: the Badshahi Masjid (Royal Mosque) and the Alamgiri gateway to the fort.

During the eighteenth century, as Mughal power dwindled, there were constant invasions. Lahore was a suba, a province of the Empire, governed by provincial rulers with their own courts. The 1740s were years of chaos, and between 1745 and 1756 there were nine changes of governors. Invasions and chaos in local government allowed bands of warring Sikhs to gain control in some areas. Lahore ended up being ruled by a triumvirate of Sikhs of dubious character, and the population of the city invited Ranjit Singh to invade. He took the city in 1799. Holding the capital gave him enough legitimacy to proclaim himself the Emperor. Descriptions of Lahore during the early 19th century refer to it as a “melancholy picture of fallen splendor.”

The British, following their invasion of Lahore in 1849, added a great many buildings in “Mughal-Gothic” style as well as bungalows and gardens. Early on, the British tended to build workaday structures in sites like the Fort, though later they did start to make an effort to preserve some ancient buildings. The Lahore Cantonment, the British residential district of wide, tree-lined streets and white bungalows set in large, shaded gardens, is the prettiest cantonment in Pakistan. Since Independence in 1947, Lahore has expanded rapidly as the capital of Pakistani Punjab.

All this makes Lahore a truly rewarding experience. The buildings, the roads, the trees and the gardens, in fact the very air of Lahore in enough to set the mind spinning in admiration. A poet has written about this phenomenon one experiences in the environs of Lahore. When the wind whistles through the tall trees, when the twilight floods the beautiful face of the Fort, when the silent canal lights up to herald the end of another chapter in history, the Ravi is absorbed in harmony, mist fills the ancient streets, and the havelis come alive with strains of classical music, the spirit of Lahore pervades even the hardiest of souls.

31.52138974.4033331Allama Iqbal International Airport (LHE IATA) is located about 20–30 minutes from the city centre. Taxis and shuttles are available to take passengers from the city to the airport - with unmetered taxis it is advisable to set the rate beforehand. The new proposed Lahore Mass Rapid Transit System will be linked from different parts of the city to the airport.

The 31.577274.33632Lahore Junction station is located near the city centre. There are routes from all major Pakistani cities. The Samjhauta (Friendship) Express runs twice a week between Lahore and Amritsar, across the border in India.

A modern motorway connects Lahore to Islamabad, Faisalabad and Peshawar. The motorway is considerably better than the GT road, even though it is longer.

While Pakistani traffic is generally chaotic and highly dangerous, the motorway is very comfortable and one of the few places traffic laws are enforced. Nowadays, new Traffic Police has arrived and is enforcing traffic laws on Highways too.

From the Indian border, bus #4 runs to the Main train station for Rs 20.

Minibuses are the cheapest way to get between the larger cities, and the only way to get to some more remote destinations. They can be uncomfortably crowded, so if possible opt for a more comfortable larger bus.

Daewoo has its own terminal away from the main bus station, on Ferozpur Road near Kalma Chowk and Liberty Market. Clean, comfortable, air-conditioned coaches run regularly between Lahore to all major cities of Punjab, KP and Sindh including Karachi plus many smaller cities and towns such as Islamabad, Multan, Faisalabad and Peshawar. Daewoo is more expensive but much more comfortable and reliable than the competition. Between Lahore and Rawalpindi/Islamabad they have a 'Premium Plus service' which gives you a business class style seat and more space.

Faisal Movers has its Lahore terminal on Bund Road. It is popular due to its safety and refreshments in the bus. Faisal Mover is less expensive than Daewoo but not other companies. This is a comfortable and easy way to go from Lahore to cities such as Murree, Rawalpindi, Sahiwal, Multan, Dera Ghazi Khan.

Skyways, Niazi Express and a couple others operate large, comfortable buses to Islamabad, Peshawar, Faisalabad and many other cities and towns from their own bus terminals near M2 Motorway Interchange. These services are rather affordable and convenient.

Lahore is a huge and sprawling city. In the old town walking or a tuk-tuk are your only options. You get to see a lot more on foot, just remember to wear comfortable shoes if you are going to be walking a great distance. Other than in winter, it will be too hot to walk long distances during the day. Sunday mornings are quiet and are a good time to explore.

Locals are generally helpful in providing directions to well-known spots. However, you should still ask two or three people to confirm the address, especially if you are driving. Using the GPS function on your phone can also be helpful.

Auto-rickshaws/tuk-tuks are open rickshaws with (narrow) rear-facing seats, or with two seats facing forward and two backward. They are handy for moving around in the Inner City, since it's easier to see where you're going. Tourists used to average western road etiquette might be horrified by the chaos on the roads - but it almost seems to work. Qingqi drivers have an unbelievable sense of space, speed and angles and you may well learn to trust them (or not). Rickshaws are the cheapest and, for women, the safest individual forms of public transport. Haggle thoroughly with the driver; if you do not speak Punjabi or Urdu or are clearly a foreigner, try to get a Lahori friend to ensure you don't get ripped off. Try to find a rickshaw with a well-padded seat, otherwise you will come out bruised and aching.

Taxis are a rarity on the streets of Lahore - with auto-rickshaws having cornered the market - for a taxi you need to book one by phone. Most taxi drivers and, indeed, rickshaw drivers, carry mobile phones; it may be useful to take a number down if you find someone especially reliable. Do not take taxis in the Inner City, as the streets are narrow and very crowded. Either walk or take a qingqi. "Uber" and "Careem" are also now available in the city

Minivans are probably the most dangerous form of public transport, with very rash drivers. Women will find these especially uncomfortable, as they are very crowded. Often women must sit in an undersized cubicle or with the driver, to prevent harassment.

Buses are usually cleaner and more comfortable than minivans, and usually a have a separate seating area for women. Saami Daewoo bus service is an airconditioned bus service operating in different parts of the city.

From the airport - When you arrive at the airport you will likely be besieged with touts offering you taxis and rooms. It's wise not to book anything through them and arrange a taxi yourself to the hotel of your choice. Some of the mid-range and most top-end hotels offer a courtesy shuttle from the airport. If you do use an airport taxi then be firm, agree on a price before you sit (which includes the Rs 50 to leave the airport carpark) and pay in advance. Should be around Rs 600 to Gulberg, Rs 800-1,000 to the old city.

Metro Bus is a recently opened separate bus rapid transit (BRT) line. Buses are air-conditioned, comfortable and have special sitting for the disabled. The price is very cheap (Rs 20). There are 27 stations starting from Gajjumata Terminal to Shahdara Terminal. Buses arrive every 3 minutes.

Lahore Transport Company buses are also a cheaper means of traveling within the several areas in Lahore. They are also a clean and cheap option. A detailed route map can be found here.

The Walled City of Lahore is one of the oldest cities in the world and comprises the following places for sightseeing.

31.58822874.3151251Lahore Fort (شاہی قلعہ, Shahi Qila). A huge structure where the Mughal and Sikh rulers built their imperial quarters. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. There is a small museum dedicated to the Sikh period of the 18th century. A friendly museum caretaker might agree to take you into the summer rooms underground.For non-Pakistanis is Rs 200.

31.588497574.31251792Alamgiri Gate. The iconic entrance to the fort. Located opposite the Badshahi Mosque. (updated Feb 2017)

31.589341274.31270333Shah Burj gate. Decorated with colored tiles. Known as the "Elephant Gate" because royal elephants would enter here. Just inside the gate is the Hathi Paer (Elephant Path) - a staircase with very wide steps so that an elephant's feet could fit on them while climbing to the upper level of the fort. The fort's wall outside this staircase is decorated with tiles including pictures of elephants. (You will also find the Alamgiri Gate occasionally called the Elephant Gate, because its two columns vaguely resemble elephant feet.) (updated Feb 2017)

31.58822974.3100744Badshahi Mosque. Built by the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, this was long the largest mosque in the world. Entrance is free, but you will be asked to pay about Rs 10 (Nov 2006) to the shoekeeper upon exit. Try going late at night, when there are few people there. Since mosques are holy places, do not wear shorts to this or any mosque; women are advised to wear long or half-sleeved clothing, and to carry a shawl so they can cover their head. Remove shoes before entering.

31.5897374.311365Tomb of Ranjit Singh. Tomb of this Sikh ruler of Lahore. Located next to the square between Lahore Fort and the Badshahi Mosque. (updated Feb 2017)

31.592493474.30951376Minar-e-Pakistan. This tower, sometimes called the "Eiffel Tower of Pakistan", was built on the site where in 1940 the creation of a separate state for Muslims was recognized. Located in a park in front of the Fort and Badshahi Mosque. (updated Feb 2017)

In the Mughal days, the Old City was surrounded by a 9 meter high brick wall and had a rampart running around it which served as a protection for the city. A circular road around the rampart gave access to the city through thirteen gates. The walls were mostly destroyed by the British after the 1857 rebellion, but some of the imposing structures of the gates are still preserved. Listed clockwise, starting from Lahore Fort in the north:

31.587610174.31199049Raushnai Gate, or the "Gate of Light" is between the royal mosque and the citadels. There is a very famous gali (row or narrow street) commonly known as the Shahi Mahala. The name Shahi has been given after the Shahi Qila. People living here are simple. There are various food shops located around the gate.

31.586819574.321068411Kashmiri Gate, so called because it faces the direction of Kashmir.

31.58644274.324256512Khizri or the Sheranwala Gate. The river in former times flowed by the city walls, and the crossing was near this spot. The gate was named after the name of Khizr Elias.

31.583198174.327940413Yakki Gate. The original name was "Zaki," which was derived from the name of a martyr saint, who, according to legendary tradition, fell fighting against Mongol invaders.

31.582141774.326505314Delhi Gate, so called because it faces the direction of Delhi.

31.579076874.324568915Akbari Gate, named after Muhammad Jala-ud-din Akbar, who rebuilt the town and citadel.

31.576976274.321563916Mochi Gate, might be named after Moti Ram, an officer of Akbar, who resided here at that time.

31.57636174.317246917Shah 'Almi Gate, named after Muhammad Mo'azzam Shah 'Alam Bahadur Shah (the son and successor of Aurangzeb). He was a mild and generous emperor, who died in Lahore on the 28th February 1712.

31.577172474.313351218Lahori Gate, also known as the Lohari gate, named after the city of Lahore.

31.577811174.311653819Mori Gate is the smallest of the gateways and, as its name implies, was in old times used as an outlet for the refuse and sweepings of the city.

31.579615174.309161720Bhatti Gate, named after the Bhatis, an ancient Rajput tribe who inhabited these quarters in old times.

31.586031874.307640521Taxali Gate, named after the Taxal or royal mint, which used to be in its neighborhood in earlier times.

Gaddafi Stadium is the largest stadium of Pakistan with a capacity of 60,000 spectators.

31.569874.3087324Punjab University (Old Campus). Buildings were erected here as early as 1858. (updated Feb 2017)

31.5679574.3068625National College of Arts. Rudyard Kipling's father was the principal here. Offers a thesis show every winter. Kim's Gun is outside the NCA (updated Feb 2017)

Charing Cross - Lahore's monumental square dating to the British era. Surrounded by historic buildings. It has been renamed to Faisal Square (Faisal Chowk in Urdu/Punjabi).

31.560292774.32499326Islamic Summit Minar. An obelisk built to commemorate the 1974 Organisation of Islamic Cooperation conference. Located in the Charing Cross roundabout. Few know the presence of a library/museum below the roundabout that is all about the OIC and Islamic Summit and is a treat to visit. (updated Feb 2017)

31.5597374.3256530WAPDA House. A modern office block, with a glass dome and a roof garden. (updated Feb 2017)

31.5563974.3257731Lahore Zoo. One of the oldest zoos in the sub continent, founded in 1872. The material used in some of the construction even bears the marks of 1853. The Lahore zoo attracts a large crowd throughout the year. Driving east along the Sharah-e-Quaid-e-Azam, just past Charing Cross and opposite the WAPDA House is the main gate of the zoo. (updated Feb 2017)

31.5329374.36633Fortress Stadium (Lahore Fortress). An attempt to combine the architecture of a fort like Rohtas with a sports stadium. Many exhibitions held here. The Stadium is the site of the famous Horse and Cattle Show in March. Joyland amusement park is also located here. (updated Feb 2017)

Masterpieces of Mughal architecture are scattered throughout the city, even in neighborhoods that today seem a little dilapidated. Buildings and sites include:

31.5870574.3817635Shalimar Gardens (located along the GT Road towards Wagah). A three-tiered formal garden built in the 1600s, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.Rs 200 for foreigners. (updated Feb 2017)

31.3877574.1921140Trafalgar Square (Bahria Town). A replica of the famous Trafalgar Square in London is located in the Bahria Town suburb. A Mini Egypt and a Zoo are located nearby and also worth a visit. (updated Feb 2017)

31.56821374.30839241Lahore Museum. The largest museum in Pakistan, established during the British Raj in 1864. It displays a complete cross-section of the culture and history of the region with a fine collection of Buddhist art from the Gandhara Period, Islamic artifacts, calligraphy, old manuscripts, arms, costumes and jewelry. John Kipling, father of the writer Rudyard Kipling, was curator in the 19th century. Unfortunately the presentation is old-fashioned and basic, and captions are sometimes in Urdu only.

31.567790674.309454442Tollinton market, Mall Road. Built as an exhibition hall and later a market, it now hosts the Lahore City Heritage Museum. Built in 1864. (updated Feb 2017)

31.50032974.32912343Shakir Ali Museum. This museum was actually Shakir's House at 93, Tipu Block, New Garder Town, Lahore, which he made for himself. After his death it was bought by Idara-I-Saqafat-e-Pakistan, and turned into a museum on April 3, 1976. The idea behind it was not only to preserve the great artist's paintings and other masterpieces under one roof but also to open this combination of modern and traditional architecture to the public.

31.583274.309744Fakir Khana Museum. A very large and interesting private Museum known as Faqirkhana lies inside the Bhatti Gate and is worth visiting. The museum houses a variety of old paintings, including some by great masters, original manuscripts in different languages and artifacts from South East Asia and the Indo-Pak subcontinent.

Mughal Museum, Poonch house, Multan Road. An industrial and commercial museum, established in 1950, which is meant to depict country's economic resources both in the form of raw products and worked objects. Its collection is arranged in one gallery and one large hall of the building. The main hall displays a range of variety of material such as well plated musical instruments, table lamps of camel skin from Multan and Bhawalpur, cotton, silken-woolen and embroidered textiles from all important cites of Pakistan. (updated Feb 2017)

31.5516774.3319245Lahore Gymkhana Cricket Museum, Mall Road. A museum of Pakistani cricket history, next to a historic cricket ground which hosted many notable matches between 1880 and the 1950s. Located in Lawrence Gardens (Bagh-e-Jinnah). (updated Feb 2017)

31.56856974.34048948Javed Manzil (Allama Iqbal Museum), Allama Iqbal Road. A museum commemorating Muhammad Iqbal, Pakistan's national poet, who lived in this building for several years before his death in 1938. (updated Feb 2017)

On Thursdays there is a regular Sufi gathering at the 31.5282274.3291Shah Jamal Tomb. The renowned drummer Pappoo Saein and his disciples perform on the huge two-sided dhol, and devotees of the saint enter trances and dance wildly as hundreds of people watch. There is a separate seating area for women and foreigners; this is very comfortable and has the best view in the enclosure.

On Saturdays there is a regular "Movie night" organized by Lahore Film and Literary Club at South Asian Media Centre. The projector featuring full HD/Blu-ray 1080p resolution, followed by discussions after the films, available as part of the LFLC evenings. You can also interact with friends over a cup of coffee at the cafe which also serves as a perfect place to initiate debate or simply share an idea. The club offers other facilities with its literary club offering literary seminars, poetry readings and a library.

Lahore has long been a bastion for sport. An excursion to a polo game would be a memorable experience. Pakistan is one of only 8 nations to play polo professionally, and fields some 26 professional clubs. Lahore's most famous club is Lahore Polo Club, where emperors, kings and other notables have been playing for centuries. Foreign teams often play here in friendly games, and facilities are first rate.

Cricket - Pakistanis, like their Indian neighbours, love cricket passionately. The Gadaffi Stadium in Lahore often hosts international matches and is relatively comfortable. If you're brave enough try some of the colorful and appetizing snacks brought into the stands by a myriad of sellers of all ages.

Medical tourism is a growing industry in Lahore due to its high quality and low cost, especially in sectors like Dental treatment, Hair transplant, Cosmetic surgery and Open heart surgery.

Go to bazaars and look around, you can buy amazing jewelery, crockery, souvenirs and of course clothes!

Go karting or playing paintball in one of the several amusement parks in town. These can be found at Fortress Stadium and Sozo Water Park (Jallo).

Enjoy street food and local special treats in the aptly named 31.5720574.318852Gawalmandi Food Street and 31.5664874.309323Anarkali Food Street.

31.5526974.330854Lawrence Gardens & Library (Bagh-e-Jinnah) (Opposite to Lahore Chamber of Commerce and Industry, next to Mall Road.). Among the biggest gardens of Lahore. (updated Feb 2017)

31.5708474.466285Jallo Park. Following the canal side road to the east of the city is Jallo Park. It is a large drive-in park with drive-in zoo and a man-made lake. Spreading over 450 acres, it has expanses of lawns, a forest research center, a children's park, a small museum and a gift shop. Sozo Water Park is another attraction in this park. Also see Sindbad, Joy Land and Sky Land. It can be visited by road and by rail. A rail car leaves for Jallo Railway Station every half hour. (updated Feb 2017)

The traditional bazaars of the inner city are roughly divided according to what is produced and/or sold there. Bargaining is de rigueur.

31.5732174.312451Anarkali bazaar. Named after a courtesan who was buried alive for loving a prince, is one of the chief shopping areas. Anarkali Bazaar is a treasure-trove, selling virtually everything from handicrafts to transistor radios, women's clothing to refrigerators. It is a maze of lanes and alleys which stretch northwards from the Mall to the Central Museum's end. The bazaars in the old city are the ones people romanticize in literature and films. They consist of tiny alleys, some of which will admit a rickshaw, a string of donkeys or carts- and pedestrians have to leap into doorways to give room. Some alleys are only possible single file. (updated Feb 2017)

31.5329774.318072Ichra Bazaar. Has the best quality of unstitched silk, cotton and printed material of all sorts. (updated Feb 2017)

31.5621174.32133Panorama mall, Mall Road. An ideal place to buy informal clothes. It houses over 1000 shops so you have a large variety of clothes to choose from and that is too at a competitive price. (updated Feb 2017)

Trendy types congregate in the Gulberg and Defence suburbs. In Gulberg, MM Alam Road is the hippest part of town, with all the most expensive designer shops, including fine furniture and clothing, both Western and Pakistani, and the best restaurants.

31.5101774.344586Liberty Market (Gulberg). A large circular market with hundreds of shops selling clothing, electronics, and so on. A basement shop in Liberty (tell the rickshaw driver it's near H Karim Bakhsh) has good handicrafts, and can be bargained with. (updated Feb 2017)

For nihari, go to Haji Nihari on Jail Road or inside Lohari Gate ; for chicken paratha rolls go to Karachi Silver Spoon in Liberty Market, and so on.

The 'Food Street' of Gowal Mandi is a must-visit for dinner - you'll find a street full of shops selling fine Lahori fare, and the setting, amidst traditional jharoka architecture, is lovely. If you make it to Food Street, go by auto rickshaw (Rs 30) or walk to Mochi Gate and try Rasheeds kebabs or Saiyns kebabs. Mochi Gate is also home to Fazal Sweets and Rafique Sweet House.Bhaiya kabab in Model Town is foremost name in Kabab Street, where you will enjoy bar-b-que with fresh soda. A 200/300-m long street with historically preserved 2/3 storey old houses on both side which are lighten up in a very special way giving a very historical and magnificent look. The envoirnment is a real creatio nof culutre of Lahore, the mughla era. You will find around a hundred restaurants in this street which mouth watering menus. Do try Chappal Kababas, Saag with Makai ki roti, Golas of Ice, Sardar ki Machli and anything you like because a lot of variety is present.

Phajjay Ke Paye at Red Light Area - Heera Mandi Lahore, is very famous and highly energetic. Those having physical weakness must try this dish.

Plain rice and Lahori lamb kebab.

31.562274974.32001741Chamman Ice Cream, Beaden Road adjacent to Hall Road, next to Mall Road. A famous ice-cream parlour offering 20 different flavours. They also offer milkshakes and juices of various kinds. (updated Feb 2017)

Pakistani Food Karahi Beef

Basheer-dar-ul-Mahi at Mazang Chok Lahore - fried fish is served in 2/3 forms. You will see people queued up in lines to get their order here. Don't go if you don't have much time. But this fish is worth waiting this much. Parathas and Lassi at Mazang Lahore - Near the Baheer-dal-ul-Mahi is this very cheap and small scale restaurant. Serves paraths of potatoes, minced chicken, egg and others with Tea or delicious Lassi. Don't miss this at breakfast or anytime you want to have something energetic.

Gourmet foods is very famous and it has over 100 outlets in Lahore.

Student Biryani. Fortress Stadium. Popular Pakistani food chain that is best known for selling its biryani dish. Having beaches all over the city as well in Karachi, Dubai and Sharjah.

Cakes and bakes is a very good bakery. On the same range: Kashmir bakery, Bon vivant cafe, Massoms cafe.

Lahore has several mid-range cafes, notably Masoom's for cakes, desserts and coffee, and sandwiches at Coffee, Tea and Company nearby. In Defence, Hot Fuzon is another good cafe and a Masoom's franchise.

Mexican cafes: Chalupa in Samnabad which has many tasty Mexican dishes like taco. There is also a bar with night time disco.

Gun smoke is another Mexican cafe in MM Alam Road with a very good atmosphere and sitting.

Latin, a Central American-styled cafe with a sheesha bar.

Lebanese restaurants: Cock and Bull with three branches in Lahore serving shawarmas.

Kim's snack bar in Samnabad. Lahore second best shawarma.

Chinese food is also very popular in Lahore. It is very strongly altered to local tastes. One notable example is Hsin Kuang which sits in a pagoda-like structure near Mini Market and is very popular, but the quality varies. It is renowned for its strong-flavoured soup.

Mini Golf (National Bank Park near Kalma Chowk). Don't miss this place for great open air atmosphere where you can also get sheesha.

Mirchi, MM Alam Rd. Perhaps the best Lahori food in the city, and is of good hygienic quality. Try the tamatar paneer and the sheesh taouk (charcoal-grileld chicken skewers).

Pepperica. This restaurant run by famous artist Rana Shujaat serves various dishes to suit the tastes of various types of customers. The chicken Jalferazi is the most popular and highly demanded by the customers.

Chatkhara. Serves snack food like samosas, chaat and dahi bhallay

Balouchi Sajji, Fortress Stadium. One of the best restaurant in Lahore. Best traditionally grilled lamb and chicken in town and after the meal one must have the traditional kawa (green tea)

Liberty Market. Offers good standard Pakistani food. The mutton karahi at Rs 510 is a popular dish and easily serves two people, while most dishes are half that price. They also offer salads, but see the Stay Healthy section below.

Cafe Aylanto, 2-C 9th Commercial Ln, ☎+92 21 587-5724. Has the best non-Pakistani food in town. Try the shrimp and avocado salad. You can also take your own wine to the restaurant and they'll be happy to serve you; just make sure to inform them on the door, if you have an alcoholic drink with you.

The hollow bread is punctured, opened and filled with vegetable mixture, and sauce

Zouk, MM Alam Rd, ☎+92 42 571-2731. One of Lahore's institutions, despite the distressing decor. It serves a mix of Continental and Thai food. It is highly popular among elites.

Freddy's, 12C MM Alam Rd, ☎+92 042 575-4416. Family-oriented restaurant which has a safe, vaguely continental menu. Freddy's offers an afternoon high tea buffet, which offers a full variety foods and some drinks.

Village, 103-B-2 MM Alam Rd, ☎+92 42 578-5523. A vast mud structure which has an all-you-can-eat Pakistani buffet. It's a popular joint to take visiting tourists, as it combines a variety of local foods with good hygiene.

Salt n Pepper Grill. Owned by the same company as Village, with a fine à la carte menu. Try their sweet lassi.

Ziafat, 21-C-I MM Alam Rd, ☎+92 42 575-0760. Authentic Pakistani food in a buffet style. Their menu is not as grand as Village, but the ambiance is a little more laid-back.

Dera. Right by the Gaddafi Stadium, sitting on your maniji and gulping lassi, you'll experience a unique truck driver atmosphere here. The food is excellent, but the prices are on the higher end. Favourite among the locals are the assorted naans, chicken mugalahi and mutton chops.

Fujiyama, 87 Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam (inside the Avari Hotel), ☎+92 42 636-6366 ext 2196. It's the only real Japanese restaurant in town, and is considered to be the most expensive.2500.

Costa Nostra. Authentic Italian food, overseen by Pak-Italian owners. Started as a reservation-only, high-end gourmet experience with a rather well put together table d'hote, it now has a basement pizzeria where you can't go wrong if want a pizza pie that resembles something from Rome and not Chicago.

Alcohol is illegal for Muslim Pakistanis. Clubbing is quite popular but not easy to find, majority of the clubs being private and invite only.

Clubs

Parties at Farmhouse

Caviar Lounge, a bar/club in Royal Palm.

Club Bhurban, in Pearl Continental hotel

Uptown LA in Defence R block. The club opens after 11PM at night till 4AM in the morning

31.41175674.2327521Peeru's Cafe, Green Acres Main Rd. Situated about an hour outside of Lahore. Peeru's, a cafe with an artistic flair. Saturday night is always Jazz Night, Peeru's cafe is really the only place which has live jazz music. Tuesday is Sufi night. Sitting inside, it even feels like some cafe in Venice.

For the visitor there are three broad options of areas in which to stay

1) In or near the old town - has the advantage of having all the historical sights on your doorstep - however you are then limited for evening entertainment unless you want a long tuktuk ride. However the two 'rooftop' restaurants overlooking the mosque are nearby.

2) Along Mall Road probably in one of the big and expensive chain hotels - you will be equidistant from the old town and the nightlife

3) In Gulberg or Defense - where you will having the nice restaurants and shopping on your doorstep, and are nearer the airport.

These tradeoffs are important because of Lahore's awful traffic, and you want to minimise the amount of (daytime especially) travel in the city. Sunday mornings are very quiet however and this is a good time to visit Mall Road and the old town.

Hotels and guesthouses are the two main options in the city. Hotels are a bit more expensive but usually have western-style toilets and are cleaner.

There are scores of options for travelers. If you feel like staying on budget there are some fairly crowded and over-priced options near the train station, which is in an overwhelmingly busy and chaotic part of the city - not for the faint-hearted. Westerners will often need to bargain if they wish to receive a fair price.

Regale Internet Inn, Surriaya Mansion 65, ☎+92 42 3731-1987, e-mail: regale_internet@hotmail.com. The owner, Malik, is a former journalist who can show you some amazing off-the-wall stuff in the city, including weekly trips to Shah Jamal on Thursday nights. It's slightly expensive for what it is, but pretty much the best option in town and worth it for the security and to meet other travelers.It is down an alley and upstairs, behind H. Karim Busch & Sons supermarket. They are pretty good at responding online bookings and often update their blog posts.Rs 200 (dorms), Rs 450 (doubles).

Signature Inn, 16-C-3 Gulberg-3 (in a quiet back road just south of Noor Jehan Road / Liberty Market - google map 'Signature Inn Lahore'), ☎+92 42 35885060. This place is a bit rough around the edges, and not recommended for a single female, but the rooms are clean, large, en suite, air conditioned and the rate includes a simple breakfast.around Rs 3,000 per night, you'll need to haggle.

Street crimes in Lahore are not common but special precautions must be taken by visitors.

Demonstrations aren't uncommon and should be avoided at all cost. In early 2006, the Prophet Muhammad cartoon protests quickly got out of hand, and several businesses were torched along with scores of cars. If a large demonstration or protest is underway, foreigners should try to remain at their hotels until the dust settles.

In general, visitors will find the locals very curious, very eager to help. Being friendly and smiling at people goes a long way. If you're a woman, though, it's best to be sparing with smiles lest people get too friendly; though this is mostly in areas like bazaars, not the actual city.

If you enter a mosque, women should wear a dupatta, which is a scarf used by local females to cover their heads. Men & women should also remove their shoes while entering in a mosque.

Avoid traveling to unlit areas at night, especially alone. Use common sense when hanging out with friends, and definitely avoid being intoxicated in public as it is an Islamic country.

Beware of pickpockets when you are in crowded areas like Liberty market, the airport, bus stands, the railway station, Anarkali, Ichra shopping centre, or Mall road.

In an emergency you can call police help line 15 or call Rescue Services at 1122.

Lahore abounds with excellent street food, but unless you've been on the road for some time and developed an iron stomach, it's always wise to exercise some caution. Look for busier street stalls, especially those in Gowal Mandi (food street), and stick to food that's hot and has just been cooked. Salads can also cause problems - if you must, one of the fancier restaurants in Gulberg is probably a safer bet than eating a salad at a dhaba or street stall.

Bottled water is highly recommended. Some budget places offer free filtered water, but even that is suspect in Lahore.

Medical care is excellent for those who can afford it and, if you can, avoid public hospitals. The Fátima Memorial Hospital is usually a fair bet, with decent rates, good hygiene, and good care.

Doctors hospital on Canal and National Hospital in Defence Housing Authority offers excellent services but at a higher cost.

Wagah Border The border between Pakistan and India is also an attraction for tourists, with a ceremony at the border everyday.

For foreigners, crossing the Wagah border to India and visiting the Golden Temple in Amritsar is a lifetime experience. However, for this you will need an Indian visa. If coming from Wagah at the Pakistani border, take a cycle-rickshaw (Rs 15, 3 km) to the Attari station, where you can catch a local bus to Amritsar (Rs 15, 25 km). Taxis also use this route and charge around Rs 200(800 from the raja sansi airport) for the entire vehicle. Amritsar is about 32 km from Lahore.

Changa Manga is a man-made forest 68 km from Lahore. There is a lake, and a miniature railway, which winds its way through its forest. Chhanga Manga has 12,510 acres of plantations. It is a popular picnic spot spread over 50 acres with a lake and rowboats, motorboats, children's park, swimming pool, cafeteria, canteen and rest houses

31.7429173.9546949Hiran Minar (About 35 km away, near Sheikhupura). A peaceful rural park with a lake and minaret. It used to be favorite hunting sport of the Muslim kings, especially the Mughals. Jehangir erected the pavilion-like monument to commemorate the death of his pet deer (Hiran means deer). It served a double purpose as from its top the hunters could locate the habitations of deers. It is a beautiful picnic as well as a historic spot. A high Bara Dari Ghat is constructed right in middle of a Talab. A man made big lake, boating facility is also available. A good garden lay out is surrounding the place. (updated Feb 2017)

The ancient city of Harappa was one of the first Indus Valley excavation sites; a must see if you're into archaeology. Harappa lies about 300 km southwest of Lahore