It depends . Can't know the distance between holes yet , insulation too. May buy you copper bars and a punch .

Okay Shirley understood, whatever you think best

Btw I have got these hole punches 3mm-8mm

I've used them for thick leather and drinks cans (for making shims). But I'm not sure if they would work with copper bar, I suppose it depends on how thick it is? But they're not as sharp as they once were.

Also insulators Shirley I was thinking of making my own but I think the ones you can will be better.

Burgerman wrote:How much to UK for 16, no bars, total cost?I may order 16 of these in place of the 176Ah ones?

Found this

Yes that's them . Shirley quoted about £952 landed, but that was before xmas so the price may have gone up I don't know?

He wanted to test 4 cells first so I sent payment for them and will pay him whatever the balance is when he requires it (plus extra for his time and effort).

But he's getting me some other bits and bobs as well so it's best if I leave answering your question to him. I wouldn't have had the confidence to buy cells myself direct from China, plus I didn't really know what other bits I needed to go with them, so Shirley is helping me out with all that. He's been really good

ex-Gooserider wrote:I've thought of wiring a diode into the +V line.... It would block charging voltages from the outside, but still give nominal 24V (less the diode drop) power as a supply for whatever....

I haven't tried it, but presumably this would also still allow programmers that go through the XLR plug (i.e. Pilot+) to work....

ex-Gooserider

That is a clever idea, there's no way I'd have thought of that, thanks. I'm not ready yet to do the conversion yet, but I have some 24V 10A diodes so I will have an experiment to see if it works, and the s-drive dongle that Woody made still works.

Or alternatively it may be better to just remove the XLR socket and replace it with one of them 24V to USB panel mounted outlets.But that's a little way off yet.

It's very easy to anneal copper, and it is then easy to cut. Just heat to red and let it cool slowly in air. It will eventually return to a harder state, more quickly if work-hardened, but is quite soft in the annealed state.

It's very easy to anneal copper, and it is then easy to cut. Just heat to red and let it cool slowly in air. It will eventually return to a harder state, more quickly if work-hardened, but is quite soft in the annealed state.

Don't want to skimp on insulation, this isn't a chair for smooth tarmac and will need to survive rough surfaces.

Width limit is the gearboxes go up and down. Only way to get them further out looks like cutting the frame centrally and widening it, but then will need a new seat frame, and the plastic shroud will need surgery too as chair needs to be weatherproof. Would rather avoid all that and also feel it will cock up the handling plus going to find it doesn't fit through tight gaps that are already a squeeze.

Cut a 260 x 340mm lump of sheet lead that is 12.5mm thick. (1/2 inch sheet). Or 2x 1/4 sheet. Or 4x 3mm 1/8th sheet. Thats 30lb. Drop it onto the battery compartment floor. And because its lower than your lead bricks it affords the same CG or stability as before.