Ernesto keep in mind you want to measure the body of the sensor, not including fins. They are there for isolation and conform to hole diameter. Had you measured the original 4.0 you would have seen the same dimensions.

(11-28-2012, 09:58 AM)rapidrhrep Wrote: Ernesto keep in mind you want to measure the body of the sensor, not including fins. They are there for isolation and conform to hole diameter. Had you measured the original 4.0 you would have seen the same dimensions.

Jason

I realized the fins collapse somewhat to seal any malformations of the hole or what have you, but do cause some resistance if they are 1 mm wider. What my main intent was to show you I have the right bit.

But still, the glossy picture in the instruction literature showed the white insertion tool being used, and nothing about using a black insertion tool. So, as per your post about following instruction, I did. Plus there is nothing said about having to use the new black tool in the non-glossy supplemental instructions either.

I'm not using an insertion tool and only using the caps. However, I take my Relton bits from Wagner and have them sharpened by an industrial blade sharpening shop (even the new ones). I know some will say that you cant keep an sharp edge on a roto-bit but these guys do a great job and my sensors go in smooth and snug. Getting a perfectly round true 3/4 hole is key.

(11-30-2012, 09:53 AM)surfacesteve Wrote: I'm not using an insertion tool and only using the caps. However, I take my Relton bits from Wagner and have them sharpened by an industrial blade sharpening shop (even the new ones). I know some will say that you cant keep an sharp edge on a roto-bit but these guys do a great job and my sensors go in smooth and snug. Getting a perfectly round true 3/4 hole is key.

You mean you only use the cap to insert the sensor? Thats a great idea, thanks.

I'm feel abandoned by the rapidrhrep...... Thought thats what the forum was for. Maybe it's just for a dog an pony show.