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Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Death At La Fenice

BEAR insisted we take a tour of Venice's opera house, Teatro La Feniche... Since he was on page 1 of Donna Leon's 1st of the Commisario Brunetti series, Death at La Feniche.(NO spoilers included.) Conveniently the same opera in the book, Verdi's Traviata sung by Donna Leon's tempermental diva (and possible murder suspect) Donna Flavia, was featured on the walls...La Feniche is appropriately named after the phoenix (a reference to the mythological creature reborn from its ashes after it's destroyed). The opera house has risen from ashes many times since 1789. As recently as 1996, recorded in detail by John Berendt in The City of Falling Angels.

Nevermind. Just sit in one of these cushy velvet chairs. You can do that on the tour. Then pretend you're hearing Traviata...

Leon's first book in the series was conceived in backstage at a performance whilst chatting with the conductor and published in 1992. She's produced a book every year since. I must say the first book is quite consistent with the others I've read. Very character-driven and always you experience everything through Brunetti's sharp eyes and ears. You climb all the steps with him too in elevator-free Venice...

At least I did get to Gelateria Nico mentioned in the book on the Fondamente Zattare waterfront. Why do I always get pistache + nocciola/hazelnut flavors? I have no imagination when it comes to gelato...

I did not get to the pricey Ristorante Galleggiante in Bacino San Marco, where every course is described in the book and the order in which it was served. For example salad must be eaten after the meal, not with it.

I did get to have a pricy seafood antipasti elsewhere. But who knew it must be served on an oblong plate? If I'd read my Brunetti I'd have known. Plus who knew the vaporetto don't run in the fog? At Caffe Paolin, only the foreigners eat outside in bad weather. The sensible Venetians retreat inside. I love all these little details of everyday life in Leon's books almost more than solving the mystery. My copy is a mess of yellow markings...

I am with you on the gelato flavors - the only way I try a new one is to get three at once! Although in Rome once I had rice flavor that was topped with stiff whipped cream - an ultimate experience in my memory - don't think anything will top that for me and no one usually carries that.

Which book do you suggest I start with? I am really interested in reading her work, primarily 'Venice'.Lovely post! I never got to see inside the Opera house but wow does it ever look amazing! Next time.

Hi Murissa,I don't think it matters which Donna Leon you start with.They all seem to be engrossing and engaging. Death At La Feniche is the 1st book but I wouldn't have guessed that was the case.They are all very consistent in tone and Venetian atmosphere in my opinion...I will not take the Metro without my Brunetti!

Thank you for getting me hooked on Donna Leon's books. After reading one of your blogs on Venice, I borrowed one from the library and then proceeded to clean out a local book dealer's stock and then found the rest online. Many hours of Venetian reading ahead.

Paris Mail

♥carol gillott♥

l'Ile Saint Louis, Paris, Ile de France, France

Hi I'm Carol Gillott,
My Mom taught me watercolors at 5. I'm still at it, now tripping over cobblestones, living in a 6th-floor garret on l'Ile Saint-Louis, Paris. Read Parisbreakfast with a hot chocolate and croissant.
I paint Paris breakfasts.