The sprawling Plaza West Covina, just off the 10 Freeway, may have the most eclectic concentration of restaurants of any shopping mall in Southern California.

From Lucille’s Smokehouse BBQ to Red Robin, from Silver Dragon Chinese to Gen Korean BBQ, from Doc Popcorn to Mr. Popo Potato — there’s something for everyone. And in the case of the Lazy Dog Restaurant & Bar, there’s something for everyone — all on one menu.

I am endlessly amazed by the ability of restaurants like Lazy Dog to crank out the wide assortment of dishes they do — and to do it with seeming ease, and with consistent quality.

Some of the dishes combine so many cuisines, it’s hard to say what they are — continental, global, international, whatever?

I’m probably missing a cuisine or two. But the point is, Lazy Dog manages to be all over the map but never loses its way. The food is always better than good, backed with service that’s relentlessly cheerful, in a space that’s noisy but comfortable.

And yes, there are photos of dogs on the walls, lots of them.

Figuring out what to order can take awhile, especially if you’re shopping for clothing at the mall, and want to keep your waistline under control.

Which may be why the drink menu includes low-calorie “Clean Cocktails,” with “no artificial ingredients and no added sugar.” There’s a coconut mojito that clocks in at 106 calories, a 140-calorie Moscow Mule, a 136-calorie Wild Blueberry Lemon Drop. Or, you can just go with the mai tai, and the Strawberry Mango Lava Flow, and accept that your 34 waist is a thing of the past.

As you’d expect of an American restaurant with a lively bar scene and lots of craft beers to choose from, this is not first and foremost a diet restaurant. It’s a restaurant that reflects how we eat these days — which is far from vegan, long distant from oil-free, happily deep-fried, richly sauced. Believe me, it’s how I roll, same as everyone else.

The sight of fettuccine Alfredo on the menu, with its thick topping of Parmesan cream sauce, brings joy to my Lipitor-protected arteries. It’s there with chicken pot pie, beer-battered fish ’n’ chips, and Cajun fries with chipotle-ranch dressing. The Hatch chile and bacon mac ’n’ cheese should leave you staring off into the middle distance, wondering what you’ve done. But it sure is fun doing it.

That said, I should also note there are plenty of healthy alternatives amid the hand-breaded chicken tenders and the chicken-chile verde nachos. They do a very snappy Hawaiian ahi poke — not too spicy, not too oily, served with avocado, wasabi and not many calories. The roasted vegetable plate is always a good choice — it’s seasonal, and if you’re lucky comes with fried chickpeas, a wonderful creation.

There’s a seared ahi salad — and the mahi mahi flavored with chimichurri sauce is as flavorful as it is unexpected. And though the spicy Thai chicken salad could use more chicken, the greens are crisp and tasty — and a jumbo order has just 440 calories.

On the other hand, if you opt for the white chocolate chip brownie or the cinnamon sugar pizza — well, that’s between you and the mirror in the dressing room.

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