San Telmo Sunday Fair / Feria

Buenos Aires Antiques and Beyond

The Feria de San Telmo is one of the most notable and popular events that takes place in Buenos Aires. Nestled in one of the oldest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, the San Telmo Fair is bustling with unique artisans and antiques every Sunday from about 10am to 4pm (depending on the season and the weather). Perhaps its greatest qualities, besides the architecturally beautiful neighborhood which it calls home, are its exclusive goods and reliable nature. Never a Sunday will there be without tourists pouring into the cobblestone streets of San Telmo for one of a kind antiques, trinkets, art, tango and delicious food.

Set your alarm, it’s morning in San Telmo

The true Feria de San Telmo is in Plaza Dorrego, although, it spills out into the surrounding blocks making it almost impossible to see the entire fair in just one Sunday. Plaza Dorrego houses mostly antique booths where one can find any number of valuables. Some, like original matchbox cars, gramophones and old telephones, which are still fully functional, may fetch a more expensive price, but the authenticity and uniqueness of these antiques make it well worth the extra pesos.

Many booths house truly one of a kind relics where a handmade backgammon board, full dinette sets and antique garments make you feel like you’re looking through your grandmother’s attic rather than a street fair. Antique knives, old jewelry and a myriad of figurines earn a spot in nearly every booth and soda siphons, artwork, mate trinkets and leather goods are in abundance. While the latter may begin to feel redundant all of these effects are an excellent example of Buenos Aires’ charming nature and rich history, and all of them deserve a spot on your shelf.

The Feria de San Telmo isn’t a time to speed shop, as walking too quickly through Plaza Dorrego may cause you to miss the very thing you’ve been looking for. Each booth ultimately has something different to offer and time well spent will turn up something to earn you “Ooohs and Ahhhs” the next time you have guests over.

Take a load off while you load up on anything you want

If you’ve built up an appetite, Plaza Dorrego is bordered by quaint eateries, cafes and bars. One of the varying prices and styles is sure to offer you the exact mid-day break you are looking for. For a taste of home with Argentine style, you can always meander your growling tummy down Defensa Street, an excellent way to view more of the fair. On Defensa, pick up some choripan (a chorizo sausage sandwich) to go and maximize your time munching away happily as you continue shopping (one of the few ways you’ll find mobile food in Argentina). Of course, Buenos Aires never disappoints with a lack of restaurants and a few blocks up or down Defensa and you’re sure to find a place that fits your mood.

Don’t spend it all in one place

If you need a break from the brassy pots and old-style belongings, Defensa provides a more modern attempt at souvenirs. Naturally, leather goods and alpaca furs still pop up from booth to booth, but younger artisans with interesting clothing designs and modern jewelry are a welcome change from the antiques of Plaza Dorrego and the antique stores lining Defensa. If you have room in your suitcase or a place in the corner of your room, quirky lamps and art pieces are a must see. If your outfit needs jazzing up, then the scarves, hats and purses will surely catch your eye.

It’s a beautiful Sunday, enjoy the view

If you happen to remember to take your eyes off of the endless maze of booths and gaze upward, the architecture of San Telmo is spectacular and a relic all on its own. San Telmo boasts extremely beautiful buildings that stand as they were, when they were built over a hundred years ago. In fact, the walk from Plaza de Mayo towards Plaza Dorrego is almost as rewarding architecturally as it is for day shopping. Another reason to perhaps leave the house early, and take your time.

If you’ve somehow managed to enjoy all the fair has to offer, and remembered to take Defensa all the way to Parque Lezama, which has its own street fair and flea market, let yourself wander through more of the surrounding blocks. San Telmo’s quaint and quirky nature is spellbinding, and a right turn here or left turn there, and a ten-man orchestra has attracted your attention.

Many of the street performers here deserve a closer look and many of them are geared towards the kids. (It’s important to mention as well, that you certainly won’t leave without catching a street tango performance). Be sure to mark the map with any museums you pass along the way. These gorgeous buildings are eye catching and if they’re not open on Sunday they deserve a day for themselves during the workweek.

Getting there is half the fun

If you’ve taken advantage of San Telmo the way it’s intended, you might need an extra suitcase home and more shelf room once you arrive. The best way to tackle the fair is walking from Plaza de Mayo down Defensa. It’s a wonderful transition from the city and an architectural delight. However, if you prefer to start closer to Plaza Dorrego and jump-start your antique splurge, there is a Subte (subway) stop on the C line at Avenida San Juan, about 6 blocks away from the fair. Like any true gem of a city attraction, don’t expect the fair to jump right out in front of you. From the right (or rather, wrong) side street you can almost miss it, making the San Telmo fair a real Buenos Aires treasure.

Related Posts

Abasto Shopping MallOpened originally as the city's central market, this beautiful Art Deco structure now functions as one of Buenos Aires' liveliest shopping centers. Also a great choice for a weeknight movie or a family outing.

Plaza DorregoOn Sunday, head to Plaza Dorrego in the charming neighborhood of San Telmo to experience one of the best antique markets in the world, along with open-air tango dancing, artisan goods and outdoor cafes.

Cochabamba 444 Tango MilongaLearn tango, enjoy live music or simply watch the magic happen at Cochabamba 444, a traditional tango milonga where dancers strut across the floor under the dim lights. Blocks from Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo.

Galerías Pacífico Shopping MallConstructed in the 1890's as an elegant home to a Parisian department store, the Galerías Pacífico in Buenos Aires is a grand shopping mall whose history is entwined with that of the city itself.

Bar SeddonShare a bottle of Argentine wine and relax for the evening at Bar Seddon, a San Telmo bar with live music, an international crowd and local charm. A true Buenos Aires neighborhood staple.

Comments

[…] San Telmo Feria, Buenos Aires: This is a Sunday fair. Many of the booths here are filled with antiques of various styles, quality and price. The fair extends into the interior of the city blocks. The large warehouses are filled with different shops with unique goods. This is a great place to watch old style Argentine life. […]

Karen on
August 23rd, 2008 9:26 am

These posts are great – very informative!

Im planning on visiting in October – but will only be in Buenos Aires for one Sunday. How would you suggest I break up the day between San Telmo and the Feria de Matadores?

[…] highlight of my day was the Sunday Fair in San Telmo. This is a fairly well-known weekly event held in and around Plaza Dorrego, and […]

Gaby Willoughby on
November 28th, 2015 7:20 am

My husband and I will be in Buenos Aires next Easter and we’re hoping to visit the San Telmo Feria, however the only Sunday we will be there is Easter Sunday . We’d love to know if the makets still go ahead on Easter Sunday.

We are in Buenos Aires until the 1st January and would love to attend the markets this coming Sunday 27th December.. Just wondering whether they will still be open given it is over tje Christmas period?

[…] the whole thing must be at least 12 blocks long. It turns out we stubbled onto the fringes of the San Telmo Faria. The girls picked out heart shaped stone necklaces and Levi got a leather wallet for 20 pesos, and […]