92' 25' Excella. The black water valve is leaking liquid (no solids yet). I want to fix it. I have seen the thread(s) about cutting a hole in the pan and doing it that way. However, in looking around under the trailer, there is a rectangular pan that covers both waste tanks. It is held on with about 40 bolts and gooped up pretty good around the edges. Has anyone removed one of these pans? What is the level of effort? I am hoping that once the bolts and goop is removed, it will drop straight down and I will have better access to the valve(s).

this is a thread on how i fixed my '92 leaky grey water valve http://www.airforums.com/forum...ead.php?t=4753 the only thing you need to be careful of is not to cut the tank sensor wires when you go at the tank box with the tin snips. there are a lot of them in there.

start slow. once you get going pry down the tin so you can see what you are cutting.

I discovered a fluid-only leak in my black water outlet as I was unhooking to go to the Ft. De Soto forum rally in St. Petersburg last week. Fearing what would happen, I waited until I was home to dump the tanks. Then I found out that it had leaked out 1/4 cup of fluid total. It seems that the seal in the the gasket needed to be "slosh" lubricated.

I filled the BW tank today and watched the outlet throughout the morning and afternoon. Not a drop.

I hope that you will be as fortunate as I feel right now. Try putting something in the tank and riding it around for a while. If it works, it's a cheap fix, and if it doesn't work, well, you went somewhere with an Airstream. Isn't that what they're for anyway?

Thanks for the words of advice, John. I have printed out that thread numerous times and studied it closely. I had marked an area where I was going to cut but then thought I would give this other option a try. Acutally there are only about 25 bolts and my drill does a good job on them once I break them free. I only have the back row and center support to remove. I have to put the wheels up on some blocks so I can get under there.

Lamar, I have been having this problem for over 6 months now so it has had plenty of opportunities to fix itself. What I have been doing is using a bucket to catch the liquid after I remove the cap. I normally get 1/3 to 1/2 a bucket full. I can then put on the hose. It is just getting real old to have to do that.

i don't believe it is a bad system if you can get in there with an impact gun. tank access would be easy.

however it looks like the factory put 2 whole tubes of vulkem on the seam before installing it. we all know what that means....you could take the bolts out and i'd bet it would stay there....for years!

that is why i used the tin snips and made my own hatch.

on edit, roger if you do get it off please take plenty of pictures and post them!

the dump valve on my argosy had frozen up and was not working at all ...The only access was a small 6x8 rectangle with rivits and some sealer... I got under and made nice big square from one rail to the other nice and neat around the edges and sealed it up to the frame... The black pvc is now open... exposed... because i dont tow much in the winter but i did keep the piece for the future if i do need to put it back on...I like the easy access in case there is a problem while camping I can repair without any hasle and enjoy my trip...sorry for not staying origional... ''> have fun..
Dan

OK. I gave up. I cut a hole. The thought of removing all that Vulkem and then putting some back on was too overwhelming. I got the valve out and will look for a replacement tomorrow. I will take some pics. I will probably add them to the original 'John HD' thread for continuity.

Not successful in finding a valve in stock. I have to order it. I did not take out the adapter that was in the tank. One of the RV shops wanted to see it so I went home and took it out. Well the sucker broke apart when I removed it. Luckily nothing happened to the tank itself. Parts should be here Tuesday.