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first test with TF100

I shocked the pool yesterday w/ shock and swim and the total chlorine level was over 5ppm and the water got cloudy. Today the water was more clear and as you can see, the chlorine level dropped dramatically. I just cleaned the cartridge filters today as well prior to testing. The water is still a bit cloudy. Any advice? I'm considering using the BBB method and using the chlorinator for when I'm out of town (I travel a bit for work and can't check the levels everyday). I'm also considering switching to bromine pucks as I understand they react better w/ ozone. I'm open to whatever is easiest/cheapest.

Re: first test with TF100

Welcome to TFP!

The problem is your high CYA level, which comes from the trichlor pucks used in the chlorinator. High CYA levels make chlorine less effective. With CYA of 100 you need an FC level of at least 8 to be effective against algae. You need to lower your CYA level and stop using trichlor, least it go right back up again.

If you maintain the spool at spa temperatures and keep it covered, bromine is probably better. Though some people are put off by it's slightly "chemical" smell.

It isn't nearly as time critical, but your CH level is way too low. You need to raise the CH up to at least 250 to avoid plaster problems.

Re: first test with TF100

Welcome!

Using the BBB method and using pucks in the chlorinator for travel will work fine, PROVIDED you understand that the pucks are acidic and will lower your PH, so that must be monitored closely; AND they increase CYA, which for you is already too high. Regardless of what you decide you need to lower the CYA.

So partial draining and refilling, maybe in a series, is in order. Once your CYA is down to a more reasonable level (50) this can work for you, provided you stay on top of your testing and maintain proper levels. You don't mention what kind of filter you have. Filters that are backwashed help keep the CYA in check a bit, cartridge filters do not.

I seond the advice that Bromine is not the best choice for outdoor pools.

If you do plan to use pucks a higher TA would be adviseable, 100-120. Adjust the CH and TA after you lower the CYA because all that water replacement will only adjust the other numbers too.

Hope this helps.

BTW, you can put your pool specs/equipment infor in your signature - go to User Control Panel, then Profile, then Edit Signature. You are allowed 5 lines of text.

Re: first test with TF100

Thanks guys. I'm draining my spool about halfway as I type. I added a signature as well. I think I'm going to start buying liquid bleach in bulk. I think I know why my CYA levels got so high so quickly. The startup guys that came for the first month added stabilizer, the trichlor, and shock. I trusted his advice and did the same periodically. Anyway, now that I'm armed with my real test kit, I can keep things under control. More advice would be great.....

Re: first test with TF100

I drained at least half the water out last night and refilled it (I was up until 2am babysitting it), but didn't get a chance to retest before going to work. I'm going to pick up some calcium chloride and bleach on my way home. Anything else?

Here are some pics we took right after we finished the landscaping:

We're pretty excited about it. There are three swim jets installed under the flagstone "step" They are plumbed straight back about 15 feet along with six drains. We plan to add the pumps and a blower later (we had them bury conduit from the panel as well). The decking is stamped concrete.

Re: first test with TF100

Since this test I have added: 12fl.oz of 6% liquid bleach to bring FC up in the 2ppm range (I'm experimenting with low FC because I have such an oversized ozonator)
5lbs of calcium chloride (I broadcasted it all over the surface and then vacuumed an hour later)

How long until I can swim????? The water is clear and it's a bit warm out.

Re: first test with TF100

From your numbers you can swim now. Be aware that Ozone can actually increase your chlorine demand because ozone destroys chlorine and vice versa. In any case I would not let the FC go below 2ppm because you need a residual santizer in the water and ozone has no residual!