DINER'S JOURNAL; The Right Wine for Halibut

By ERIC ASIMOV

Published: March 20, 2013

halibut skewers with yogurt sauce, the dominant flavors will be the Turkish spices, along with the lemon, onion and cooling herbs.

I suggest a good sauvignon blanc, which can show a spectrum of herbal and citrus flavors. What sort of sauvignon blanc? One that is intense but not flamboyant or brassy, in which the flavors are more herbal than tropical fruit, with substance to match the richness imparted by the yogurt. My ideal would be one of the Italian cult producers — yes, cult sauvignon blanc — like Miani (very expensive) or Meroi (less so). But those are very hard to find. A California bottle might work well, though you must choose carefully to avoid oaky wines.">

Halibut is the chardonnay of the fish family, essentially neutral in flavor but brilliant in transmitting external influences. In David Tanis’s recipe for halibut skewers with yogurt sauce, the dominant flavors will be the Turkish spices, along with the lemon, onion and cooling herbs.

I suggest a good sauvignon blanc, which can show a spectrum of herbal and citrus flavors. What sort of sauvignon blanc? One that is intense but not flamboyant or brassy, in which the flavors are more herbal than tropical fruit, with substance to match the richness imparted by the yogurt. My ideal would be one of the Italian cult producers — yes, cult sauvignon blanc — like Miani (very expensive) or Meroi (less so). But those are very hard to find. A California bottle might work well, though you must choose carefully to avoid oaky wines.

Even better, but more expensive, would be a good white Bordeaux from Pessac-Léognan or Graves, especially if, as with Château Smith Haut Lafitte, sauvignon blanc is a dominant component.

Suggest your pairings for halibut in the comments section below.

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GRAPHIC

halibut skewers with yogurt sauce, the dominant flavors will be the Turkish spices, along with the lemon, onion and cooling herbs.

I suggest a good sauvignon blanc, which can show a spectrum of herbal and citrus flavors. What sort of sauvignon blanc? One that is intense but not flamboyant or brassy, in which the flavors are more herbal than tropical fruit, with substance to match the richness imparted by the yogurt. My ideal would be one of the Italian cult producers — yes, cult sauvignon blanc — like Miani (very expensive) or Meroi (less so). But those are very hard to find. A California bottle might work well, though you must choose carefully to avoid oaky wines.">