A decent all-round package should be an upmarket chain’s stock in trade, and Browns Bar and Brasserie in George Street has a slick take on most eating and drinking options. The chandelier wouldn’t disgrace Phantom of the Opera, while smart white-aproned waiting staff continue the belle époque brasserie theme. It’s a capacious, high-ceilinged space, but broken up by changes of level so that whether you want a comfy sofa for some elevated people watching, a perch at the bar, or a rendez-vous to dine à deux, in a group or even solo, there’s a nook to suit. Brunches, afternoon tea and family-friendly Sunday roasts figure alongside the lengthy à la carte menu. A meaty wild boar and chorizo burger is spicily juicy, while plum sauce spiked with star anise brings dash to succulent twice-roast leg of duck. Peppered parsnip mash and kale are nice side additions to the more routine chips and green beans, while salads are fresh, if a bit blandly dressed. For afters, the sticky toffee, chocolate and pastry scenario may not surprise but neither will it disappoint.

High point: Decent food in civilised surroundings, and sometimes live piano music