Is this the "real thing"?
Mercer claims that it is.http://mercerandsons.com/swatches_and_pricing.htm
not to take anything away from David, but the oxford he offers is the same asian made oxford
that almost all of the USA based custom shirtmakers offer.

I have some RTW that are over 10 years old that seem very "beefy"
They came from the old Hawes and Curtis and T&A. I haven't seen any thing like
this fabric in years.

Not sure where their shirt fabric was made, but Allbini, Thomas Mason oxford is quite nice. softer then traditional oxford using finer yarns

Thanks, man. These are actually the first linen shirts I've owned in many, many years, so I figured 2 out of the 3 should be workhorse basics and I'd take a flyer on one that's a little more interesting.

understood it is fully bespoke, measured in person(first shirt). no try on was needed, nailed at first attempt. think AM w/o the extensive handwork, which i do not appreciate. when the measurements have been taken, thirty indicator points have been considered. this is their kent collar, where you can choose from a dozen different angles. iirc, this is 8 degrees.

collar size is twenty-one inches or 52.8 cm. collar band is from 3.0 cm to 3.3 in the back.

understood it is fully bespoke, measured in person(first shirt). no try on was needed, nailed at first attempt. think AM w/o the extensive handwork, which i do not appreciate. when the measurements have been taken, thirty indicator points have been considered. this is their kent collar, where you can choose from a dozen different angles. iirc, this is 8 degrees.
collar size is twenty-one inches or 52.8 cm. collar band is from 3.0 cm to 3.3 in the back.
hope this helps.