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Comment

I have safety glasses all over the place. I put a set on a lanyard that goes around my neck, so can't forget...or lose. That table saw commands a lot of respect from me.

I've got a separate pair of safety glasses for each major piece of equipment, that way I never have an excuse for not putting it on. Even if I lost one, I'm never more than a step or two from another. It's just not worth it to risk your eyes over a piece of wood.

Comment

I agree with most other people, get a ZCI (which I saw you did), make sure you didn't catch the cutoff between the fence and the blade and move your power switch to a more convenient location. If you had your blade guard on, I'm having trouble picturing how a cutoff could have been thrown up at chest level without hitting the blade guard in the process, it's more likely you would have gotten a waist-height bullet than anything. Also, you might consider using a pushstick or some other tool to push all cutoffs past the blade as a matter of course, no cutoff, no kickback.

Comment

I have had the same thing happen with small cut-offs. It led me to a few changes and have not had a repeat.

1st - In this instance, a ZCI would have prevented the launching of the wood piece. I have all idea that you would find the rest of it down the exhaust chute. The blade caught it, pulled it down but it was too big to fit through the opening. It was not tough enough to stop the blade so it broke. The piece that hit you was rebounding from the insert as well as being propelled by the forward spinning teeth. A ZCI might have had it kick forward (doubtfully, because I have had many small pieces just sit where the cut ended and never tilted into the blade), but as a small piece, with a lot less force.

2nd. I moved my switch from the right side to the left side. As you have already used the handy little wire restraint that came with the saw, you will have to improvise. I took a zip-tie, ran it out through the hole on the back left side of the saw, around the wire, and back into the hole. That meant the catch on the zip tie kept the wire in place. Make sure the wire is secured so it will not drop onto the pulley belt, because the belt will cut through the insulation (DAMHIKT )

The other advantage I have found having the switch on the left, as counter-intuitive as it seems, is that, being right-handed, I can still keep control of a piece that is starting to go awry. Beings the right hand is what I am using for the push block/stick, etc, I do not have to move it, and can use my left hand to shut things down.

Just my thoughts

Go

Practicing at practical wood working

Comment

OK, will move the switch. Do most people locate the switch on the side they operate from? If so, and the switch default location is on the right, it makes me wonder if the normal operating position is to the right side of the blade. ???

- Phil

I installed mine on the left side, where I usually operate from, since I didn't like the idea of having to reach across the saw to turn it off.

Comment

I've read all of the comments and didn't see any mention of a small parts cutoff sled. Along with everything else that has been said, and you seem to have most of it covered already, I think a small parts cutoff sled would give you even more peace of mind. You can maintain a lot of control using hold-downs mounted on the sled.

I agree with most other people, get a ZCI (which I saw you did), make sure you didn't catch the cutoff between the fence and the blade and move your power switch to a more convenient location. If you had your blade guard on, I'm having trouble picturing how a cutoff could have been thrown up at chest level without hitting the blade guard in the process, it's more likely you would have gotten a waist-height bullet than anything. Also, you might consider using a pushstick or some other tool to push all cutoffs past the blade as a matter of course, no cutoff, no kickback.

I think Gofer, in the next post, best explains what happened. The piece hit me below the rib cage, but maybe five inches or so above my waist. The guard was definitely in place. The cutoff was small enough to fit inside the guard. The fence was nowhere near the cutoff, was just using the miter gauge only. The cutoff was quite small, but could use a small stick or something to push it away. It makes me nervous to see that small cutoff sitting next to the blade. I suspect that the insert had an opening big enough where more than half the cutoff is hanging over the opening between the blade and the edge of the insert. In that case, it would tilt into the blade, trying to fall into the opening. The teeth catch it, break it up, and somehow, some chunk of it is shot at me. There is no doubt that part of the cutoff was ingested by by the saw. I could hear some clanking within the saw, briefly before being hit.

Comment

I have had the same thing happen with small cut-offs. It led me to a few changes and have not had a repeat.

1st - In this instance, a ZCI would have prevented the launching of the wood piece. I have all idea that you would find the rest of it down the exhaust chute. The blade caught it, pulled it down but it was too big to fit through the opening. It was not tough enough to stop the blade so it broke. The piece that hit you was rebounding from the insert as well as being propelled by the forward spinning teeth. A ZCI might have had it kick forward (doubtfully, because I have had many small pieces just sit where the cut ended and never tilted into the blade), but as a small piece, with a lot less force.

2nd. I moved my switch from the right side to the left side. As you have already used the handy little wire restraint that came with the saw, you will have to improvise. I took a zip-tie, ran it out through the hole on the back left side of the saw, around the wire, and back into the hole. That meant the catch on the zip tie kept the wire in place. Make sure the wire is secured so it will not drop onto the pulley belt, because the belt will cut through the insulation (DAMHIKT )

The other advantage I have found having the switch on the left, as counter-intuitive as it seems, is that, being right-handed, I can still keep control of a piece that is starting to go awry. Beings the right hand is what I am using for the push block/stick, etc, I do not have to move it, and can use my left hand to shut things down.

Just my thoughts

Go

I think your assessment of how this happened is correct. I am quite sure the saw ingested some part of the cutoff, as there was some brief clanking with the saw blade, and then bang, I am hit about the same time.

I've read all of the comments and didn't see any mention of a small parts cutoff sled. Along with everything else that has been said, and you seem to have most of it covered already, I think a small parts cutoff sled would give you even more peace of mind. You can maintain a lot of control using hold-downs mounted on the sled.

Something to think about.

Take care.

Rick

I would welcome any plans on on sleds that work well for smaller parts. I saw one design (below), that uses a 45 degree angled piece so that small parts slide down the 45 degree ramp, away from the blade. Nothing too complicated please, I am VERY new to woodworking!

Comment

I think Gofer, in the next post, best explains what happened. The piece hit me below the rib cage, but maybe five inches or so above my waist. The guard was definitely in place. The cutoff was small enough to fit inside the guard. The fence was nowhere near the cutoff, was just using the miter gauge only. The cutoff was quite small, but could use a small stick or something to push it away. It makes me nervous to see that small cutoff sitting next to the blade. I suspect that the insert had an opening big enough where more than half the cutoff is hanging over the opening between the blade and the edge of the insert. In that case, it would tilt into the blade, trying to fall into the opening. The teeth catch it, break it up, and somehow, some chunk of it is shot at me. There is no doubt that part of the cutoff was ingested by by the saw. I could hear some clanking within the saw, briefly before being hit.

I am definitely moving the power switch.

Oh, I wasn't accusing you of anything, it just seems to me that if a scrap of wood came in contact with the blade (presumably the rear of the blade which would have sent it upward), it would have struck the inside of the guard and been stopped, even if it exploded. There just isn't enough kinetic energy in that kind of piece to lift the blade guard up and out of the way and still shoot it upward, at least not that I've ever seen. Of course, that depends on the type of guard someone has and a lot of other factors, the only place in most blade guards that has an opening is at the very front where I suppose a small piece of wood could shoot out if conditions were just right.

I think you're on the right track with the power switch move, I've always had mine on the left side and it's always worked perfectly for me.

Comment

I did not think you were accusing me of anything. The cut off was at the front of the blade. It was a small piece, so detached from the work piece (small) after pushing into the blade probably only 2" at most.

- Phil

Comment

It may be possible if your work piece is still lifting the blade guard that a small cut off can get shot out under the lifted guard. On a side note I had an incident where after cutting off a small piece I pulled my work piece away from the blade and out to the side, This was not a good thing to do as the blade guard dropped off the edge of the work piece and the falling guard struck the cut off piece and propelled it into the blade, although by now the blade guard was safely down the cut off bounced around wildly inside the guard and caused a little gouge out of my zero clearance insert I learned that from now on I will push the work piece forward and then back, and never out to the side after a cut

I have to agree with others here that cut off sleds are a great way to accurately and safely cut small pieces. I am into making wooden puzzles and puzzle boxes. This has me always cutting small components, and I always use sleds. I am slowly getting quite the collection and now have 3 different sleds for specific cuts. I also use clamps and my fingers are always well away from the blade.

Phil I too am fairly new to table saws, and it's good to have a respect for them and to learn to use them wisely. Glad to see that you were not seriously hurt, and that you are smart enough to ask others on how to avoid it in the future. Table saws are fantastic woodworking tools when operated safely!!!

I have a few holes in the garage door I could take a picture of and post if any one wants to see, if one is using the miter gage and the fence as a stop your going to get one some time, (very dangerous set up use a block attached to the fence and use that as a gage with enough space so the cut block can not wedge against the blade,

cutting thin strips seem to be the next most dangerous, and if it set against the blade an the fence it can pick up speed very fast and dangerous, (thus hole in the door), I think the thin strips can bow when cut and thus force them selfs against the blade thus pinching and kick back,

keep your hands out of the way use push sticks and blocks, I hook my right hand little finger over the fence when pushing items through if it is wide enough not to use a push stick, and not so wide as the fence is far away from the blade, if the board is caught or kicks back, my hand stays in a safe location.

do not stand directly behind the blade, (even the carbide teeth can break).

and learn not to move your hands regardless how startled you are by some thing, some one walking into the shop when some thing is running and touching you on the shoulder can be very dangerous, (and if they do horse play not a good idea),

use common sense, push sticks and blocks and know where your hands are, and the paths they will take, keep them at a safe distance from the blade at all times, much better to lose a piece of lumber than a body parts, wear eye protection, and keep loose clothing our of the way and long hair put up.

Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
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I would welcome any plans on on sleds that work well for smaller parts. I saw one design (below), that uses a 45 degree angled piece so that small parts slide down the 45 degree ramp, away from the blade. Nothing too complicated please, I am VERY new to woodworking!

Look around on the internet for plans. You can make yourself a sled that can be as basic or as elaborate as you want. It'll be your choice. But, don't sell yourself short, even if you are very new to WW, you can still make more complicated projects. And the good thing about making jigs/fixtures is they don't have to look perfect, they just need to function well.

I recently purchased a new TS and have a whole slew of jigs/fixtures that I want/need to make. My old TS was a contractors style and it had unorthodox miter slots which weren't usable with sliding jigs.

I would highly recommend Jim Tolpin's book "Table Saw Magic" for jig/fixture plans and TS use instruction. He covers just about any task that the TS can do and has jigs/fixtures for most, if not all, of them.