Description

Located high above Santa Rosa lies a large park of rock known as Sugarloaf State Park. There's rock everywhere in this park. Unfourtunately, most of it is crummy volcanic rock that's too unstable for establishing routes. However, many of the tuff boulders in the park offer good bouldering on solid rock with very diverse ratings and problems.

This is one of the closest bouldering areas to The Bay Area, located just 15 minutes East of Santa Rosa, which is roughly a 50 minute drive from Central Bay locations. I drive like a bat out of hell on the 101, and can get there in 55 minutes, even being nice on Adobe Canyon Road.

There are no access fees.

Sugarloaf park is named so because of the packaging that sugar used to be sold in the 1900's looked a lot like the rolling hills found in the park .

Camping is allowed in the park at the disignated campground which is easlily found just before the day use lot. Top roping the cliff behind the parking lot is also an option.

There is lots of development potential at Sugarloaf, and it is a sight of some recent new problems. Potential first ascentionists should try to keep their routes facing away from established hiking trails so as to not detract from other peoples experiences while in the park.

Getting There

From the Bay Area, head first to Santa Rosa via the 101 North.

Once into Santa Rosa, take the exit for highway 12, and continue on 12 East 11 miles to Adobe Canyon Road, where you should go left. Sugarloaf State Park is signed at this turn.

Hey, looking for someone to show me around the boulders here. New to the area, found a few off Canyon Trail today while I was there, e-mail me at Millhouse51183@aol.com if you can help me out. Beautiful park.

a tree fell on the Asteroid Boulder taking out a few of the problems like the problems near and including the start of Milky Way Traverse :(

but the new boulders near the top of Canyon Trail (in the creek across from Pony Gate Trailhead) are brand new and make up for the other loss and there is more potential in the creek as well! come on out for some fa fun!! Aron - Brian . . ? ?