What was the issue? My second 120" Elite screen came and both it and the first had v-wave and other rolls. The first was far worse than the second so I've decided to keep the second. the first was also a manual series and the second is a VMAX2.

This unit doesn't have any issues with the way it hangs or anything like that. My guess would be that this particular screen may have been sitting in someone's inventory for a long time. This should be easily resolved unless there is an issue with the reseller themselves. If that is the case, I will simply return it rather than deal with any complications. I need to let this issue work itself out before airing any specifics on this forum

Not certain if this is applicable here as the procedures outline in this Draper document show how to remove/eliminate the V or inverted V that many non-tab-tensioned screens suffer from. Sharing here in the event that others may be able to apply these methods to resolve any flatness issues some here may be experiencing.

Has anyone found a solution to the so called horizontal 'memory lines' during bright scenes? Having it rolled down for days didn't help.
It really gets you out of the experience when you have some bright scenes in the movie. Basically, films like Lawrence of Arabia are completely unwatchable due to the effect.

This unit doesn't have any issues with the way it hangs or anything like that. My guess would be that this particular screen may have been sitting in someone's inventory for a long time. This should be easily resolved unless there is an issue with the reseller themselves. If that is the case, I will simply return it rather than deal with any complications. I need to let this issue work itself out before airing any specifics on this forum

Here's the update I promised. I bought from a company that "liquidates" electronics. The seller claimed that he had picked it up from Best Buy & that it had been either an open box or return item. He claimed that since it is "essentially new" it even had a 2 year warranty. He stated that he had hooked it up and FULLY tested it and he would be happy to send me a picture of the serial # so that I could verify it actually was the Acoustically Transparent material as that was probably my largest concern as I had not found ANY motorized AT screens under $1K.

Naturally, he didn't want to ship it with ANY possiblity of a mis-understanding as shipping was going to cost $150. He sent me pictures showing the projector in a box with the controls still wrapped like new and based on how up-front he was and all his claims of testing that we came to a price, he sent me an invoice, I paid it through paypal & he shipped it out the next day. It wasn't cheap but I was glad to have FINALLY made what I thought was a good decision on a name-brand Acoustically transparent screen with a good reputation or so I had thought...

Unfortunately, his claims could not have been further from the truth. Upon unboxing it I noticed that the power cord had been "severed VERY near the housing". As some of you may be aware, that is a common method manufacturers use to indicate a defective unit that is not to be re-sold for anything other than parts. They figure that if they cut it off close enough to the housing, nobody can then later try to connect it without rebuilding the power cord and few have the technical skill to do so on most electronics. Of course this immediately gave me the sinking feeling that I was going to have to call the seller and ask for a refund. I HATE doing that as I have been burned previously and didn't want to cost this guy his original shipping + potentially return shipping as well. I scrounged around the box and located the rest of the power cord in a bag with the remote. Another sign that whoever had sold it to him had likely gotten a replacement, cut the cord and then simply re-packed it & sold it to this guy.

This seller had CLEARLY lied about testing anything with that power cord. However, it was late at night and I wanted to see if I could fix it and get it running. It was still a good price as long as I could get it to work so I repaired the wiring & hooked it up to the ceiling and proceeded to lower it. It was slow coming down but I had read that others on here also noted that it was fairly slow so no issue until.... it got about 1/2 way lowered and then the bar DROPPED to the top of my 2-foot tall credenza underneath the screen?!? I thought "Oh Sh!t, the motor failed" but it had not. Since it's a tab-tensioned model I thought that perhaps one of the strings had broken but it had not. In fact, at the time it appeared that whoever had rolled it back into the housing had simply folded it back in instead of fully rolling it up. Afterall, the screen was now more or less in place as it had come down about an inch further than the product description's measurements showed. Never-the-less it was in place and I could set the projectors image and such before retiring for the night with plans to watch a cartoon or something fun with my youngest son in the morning.

It wasn't going to be THAT easy as I was awaken very early in the morning to a loud CRASH. I did not put 2 & 2 together until I walked into the Home Theater to find the images below. Aw CRAP! I guess it wasn't a simple thing & the unit really WAS defective. After inspecting everything I was relieved to learn that there were no tears or rips and even the credenza's glass top had not been cracked. At least there's that.

I proceeded to call the seller, share what I found and informed him I wanted to return it. I have had enough "projects" and didn't feel like tearing the housing apart to find a damaged motor that I would never be able to fix. I explained the cut cord so I KNEW he had not tested it. He argued that either I cut it or that it "must" have been cut during packaging (not unless the packager was also diligent enough to re-pack the power cord into a baggy on the other side of the package). When I asked him how he wanted to handle return shipping he asked me to file a warranty claim. Apparently he has done this kindof thing before and gotten the mfg to cover the replacement. Since he was an electronics company I thought that perhaps he was also an authorized ES dealer & perhaps this was normal. Maybe it really WAS just a mfg defect. I filed the claim with ES and two business days later received an eMail from ES stating that "The seller is not an authorized ES dealer than therefore it was the seller's responsiblity to refund my $'s".

I filed a paypal dispute to start the refund process & informed the seller of the details. He asked why I didn't just "tell them I bought it from Best Buy" like he claimed. I thought about bringing up the entire issue of it being dishonest but instead I simply informed him that I only had HIS receipt so there is no way for me to have sent ES a BB receipt. I could tell he was frustrated but so was I. He said he could refund but wanted me to take the screen off the roller and send "just that" to him & he would refund my $'s once he received it but before I did that he wanted me to see if there was some way I could fix it & he would give me a partial refund. Argh! Just was I had been trying to avoid when I decided not to "build my own" a onth or two earlier!

I could see the writting on the wall (Him claiming I cut the cord, etc) so with few other options, I spent some time with the unit testing the motor which turned out to function correctly so it appeared that just the fabric had become unglued. Perhaps from sitting around his warehouse for a year or two perhaps? Knowning what I now know I suspect that he stored the screen vertically in his warehouse to consume less space or perhaps simply to get it out of the way. I suspect a hot warehouse (South Texas near the mexican boarder) had likely made for a perfect scenario for the adhesive to release. I figured out a way that I could get the roller out of the chassis, re-glue the fabric & re-assemble it all even though that was the LAST thing I wanted to burn time on.

We negotiated about a 50% refund and I worked on it for 2 nights (about 6 hours). Getting that roller out and then back in with a partially unrolled 120" diagonal screen was a B-I-T-C-H but in the end I was successfull in re-building it. I carved up my hands on the metal, bruised a knuckle or two pretty badly as they started to swell. I made CERTAIN that the roller was all the way down when I rebuilt it so that I coudl ensure that there was at LEAST an extra wrap around the roller when fully extended which also helped alleviate the pressure on the new adhesive.

Long story short.... I got a hell of a deal on a very nice screen and I have the war wounds to proven it. A little blood shed always makes me feel like I truly EARNED this one. We watched Independence Resurgence tonight after all the repairs.

In the end I got a $2K retai screen for less than 1/2 the retail price less the refund means that I was able to get this QUALITY 120" 16:9 Acoustically Transparent screen for under $500. Well, the mental & the physical damage as well as the $s!

Here is the screen in place after all that effort. Yes, it DOES need to be lowered and I will be picking up those parts from Lowes this afternoon. Apologies for the crappy image due to the poor camera on my company-provided cell phone.

@ndabunka
- man I hate hearing stories like this, but glad it all turned out well in the end. There's always someone out there looking to get over on everyone they can unfortunately. Sounds like it was definitely a case of this seller trying to force you into his scheme with getting his money and then having Best Buy refund you. Anyways it looks great! I've been living my setup too!

Got a stupid question, was looking at the ez cinema screen 100" for a possible 1080p projector/uhd TV combo setup but was wondering if there would be any issues with having my center channel speaker behind the screen,is the portion of black fabric acoustically transparent?

Got a stupid question, was looking at the ez cinema screen 100" for a possible 1080p projector/uhd TV combo setup but was wondering if there would be any issues with having my center channel speaker behind the screen,is the portion of black fabric acoustically transparent?

I don't think that's a stupid question. Unfortunately I don't know the answer but I would be interested to hear from someone who does. Or you can go to elite screens website and chat with someone. They can answer that for you.

I have, all three, the Cinewhite 1.1, the 3D and 5D samples.
I had ordered them from Elite and took them to a local Best Buy that had the 6040UB

It was in room with light control but the glass door to the main floor bled in lights.
I tested Transformers 4 in 3D IMAX (brought my own 3d glasses) and Star Wars: TFA

I spent about 2 hours testing them and definitely NOT the 5D.
It was a toss up A/B'ing the cinewhite and 3D and while the lights were off and some light coming in from the glass door here's what I noticed

The CW was brighter and on some Robot fight scenes it really popped out nicely colorwise.
However over black I could see that it was NOT as black holing the 3D sample.
In every instance, where Transformers in 3D or just regular blu ray or Star Wars, the CW did not have the deep true black as the 3D did. I did notice that the 3D had a nice contrast and colors where more vivid.
I am about to get the Elite Sable 2 135 3D (well %95 set on it unless someone here suggest other wise).

However on the Fence on 135 flat or 135 Curved. I am assuming if I go with their Lunett Curved the Epson would have to be in the dead center on the ceiling?
mine ceiling is 10'

I have, all three, the Cinewhite 1.1, the 3D and 5D samples.
I had ordered them from Elite and took them to a local Best Buy that had the 6040UB

It was in room with light control but the glass door to the main floor bled in lights.
I tested Transformers 4 in 3D IMAX (brought my own 3d glasses) and Star Wars: TFA

I spent about 2 hours testing them and definitely NOT the 5D.
It was a toss up A/B'ing the cinewhite and 3D and while the lights were off and some light coming in from the glass door here's what I noticed

The CW was brighter and on some Robot fight scenes it really popped out nicely colorwise.
However over black I could see that it was NOT as black holing the 3D sample.
In every instance, where Transformers in 3D or just regular blu ray or Star Wars, the CW did not have the deep true black as the 3D did. I did notice that the 3D had a nice contrast and colors where more vivid.
I am about to get the Elite Sable 2 135 3D (well %95 set on it unless someone here suggest other wise).

However on the Fence on 135 flat or 135 Curved. I am assuming if I go with their Lunett Curved the Epson would have to be in the dead center on the ceiling?
mine ceiling is 10'

Good input. I'm thinking with full light control, the white would be better for me. If that were not the case, 3D might be a good choice.

I have, all three, the Cinewhite 1.1, the 3D and 5D samples.
I had ordered them from Elite and took them to a local Best Buy that had the 6040UB

It was in room with light control but the glass door to the main floor bled in lights.
I tested Transformers 4 in 3D IMAX (brought my own 3d glasses) and Star Wars: TFA

I spent about 2 hours testing them and definitely NOT the 5D.
It was a toss up A/B'ing the cinewhite and 3D and while the lights were off and some light coming in from the glass door here's what I noticed

The CW was brighter and on some Robot fight scenes it really popped out nicely colorwise.
However over black I could see that it was NOT as black holing the 3D sample.
In every instance, where Transformers in 3D or just regular blu ray or Star Wars, the CW did not have the deep true black as the 3D did. I did notice that the 3D had a nice contrast and colors where more vivid.
I am about to get the Elite Sable 2 135 3D (well %95 set on it unless someone here suggest other wise).

However on the Fence on 135 flat or 135 Curved. I am assuming if I go with their Lunett Curved the Epson would have to be in the dead center on the ceiling?
mine ceiling is 10'

I'll play DA and argue that the CW is tried and tested. It was well reviewed across the board against other manufacture's offerings. We chose it over several samples from Elite and DaLite.
For lack of a better word, it is "neutral".
Like you, I found that there were way more similarities than differences. In the end I went with the "established" product. So far, so good. My $.02.

I am ordering a BENQ HT2050 projector. My room is 13'10"X17'5". The projecting distance is about 15". At daytime, the room is not totally dark due to an open door (no direct sun light). It is fairly dark coz difficult to read a book. The projector is for movie only.

Currently, I have silver ticket's AT screen and not happy with it (moire effect). Although ST has been excellent in customer support (they are sending me custom cut screen) to see if it works. If it does not, I wanted to try Elite's AT screen.

If anyone has done comparison on these two screens, kindly let me know

Has anyone found a solution to the so called horizontal 'memory lines' during bright scenes? Having it rolled down for days didn't help.
It really gets you out of the experience when you have some bright scenes in the movie. Basically, films like Lawrence of Arabia are completely unwatchable due to the effect.

I just went from a home made board type screen to a 106" Elite manual series M106UWH. I noticed this as well... They don't seem to go away even after having the screen down (deployed) for over a day. This plus some persistent waves make me miss my smaller home made screen sometimes...

Just got and installed my Elite Screens Electric125HT. I remember reading somewhere that you should leave it down for a few days after installing it, is that correct? Also, I know I read before how the tension lines are not very taught, it looks like there is a hex-key adjustment in the bottom bar to tighten it, but it isn't talked about in the manual that I found.

Does anyone have experience or heard of anyone using the Vmax Tab-Tension Dual Series? Moving in a few months and looking at this screen paired with a JVC PJ with the motorized lens/lens memory for shifting between 2.35:1 and 16:9 content. Link here: http://shop.elitescreens.com/vmax-dual-tension.aspx

Im most curious about focusing the image since one screen is "behind" the other by "12 mm" according to the manufacturers website anyways. I want the motorized screen in order to use a flat panel tv positioned behind where the screens would drop for gaming and/or music listening, etc.

Any thoughts? I'm also eyeing the Aeon series with the "cinegray 3D" material (Link here: http://shop.elitescreens.com/aeon.aspx) so I could have some lights on for watching sports, etc, but I really want to have a flat panel in the room as well for gaming/non PJ use. Any input here is appreciated, thanks in advance.

Does anyone have experience or heard of anyone using the Vmax Tab-Tension Dual Series? Moving in a few months and looking at this screen paired with a JVC PJ with the motorized lens/lens memory for shifting between 2.35:1 and 16:9 content. Link here: http://shop.elitescreens.com/vmax-dual-tension.aspx

Im most curious about focusing the image since one screen is "behind" the other by "12 mm" according to the manufacturers website anyways. I want the motorized screen in order to use a flat panel tv positioned behind where the screens would drop for gaming and/or music listening, etc.

Any thoughts? I'm also eyeing the Aeon series with the "cinegray 3D" material (Link here: http://shop.elitescreens.com/aeon.aspx) so I could have some lights on for watching sports, etc, but I really want to have a flat panel in the room as well for gaming/non PJ use. Any input here is appreciated, thanks in advance.

I'm also thinking about edge free Aeon. Was torn between JVC current models and Epson 5040ub/6040ub. The Epson models do gaming really well, with relatively short input lag times, the JVCs, not so much. so I was leaning very much so toward Epson. An inside source recently told me that if gaming was a concern for me, and I was considering JVCs, that I might want to wait till after the first of the year....not official yet...

Does anyone have experience or heard of anyone using the Vmax Tab-Tension Dual Series? Moving in a few months and looking at this screen paired with a JVC PJ with the motorized lens/lens memory for shifting between 2.35:1 and 16:9 content. Link here: http://shop.elitescreens.com/vmax-dual-tension.aspx

Im most curious about focusing the image since one screen is "behind" the other by "12 mm" according to the manufacturers website anyways. I want the motorized screen in order to use a flat panel tv positioned behind where the screens would drop for gaming and/or music listening, etc.

Any thoughts? I'm also eyeing the Aeon series with the "cinegray 3D" material (Link here: http://shop.elitescreens.com/aeon.aspx) so I could have some lights on for watching sports, etc, but I really want to have a flat panel in the room as well for gaming/non PJ use. Any input here is appreciated, thanks in advance.

That screen will not be useful for your lens memory. That dual screen uses CIW vs CIH.

You would be better with a 2:35 screen so you can use the lens memory for CIH.

I'm also thinking about edge free Aeon. Was torn between JVC current models and Epson 5040ub/6040ub. The Epson models do gaming really well, with relatively short input lag times, the JVCs, not so much. so I was leaning very much so toward Epson. An inside source recently told me that if gaming was a concern for me, and I was considering JVCs, that I might want to wait till after the first of the year....not official yet...

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluer101

That screen will not be useful for your lens memory. That dual screen uses CIW vs CIH.

You would be better with a 2:35 screen so you can use the lens memory for CIH.

Thanks yall, I will keep evaluating my screen options and fortunately I will not be moving to the new place until late march or april, so I am not in a big rush. Trying to evaluate all options here.

How are the blacks on the epsons vs the JVC's? The epson is quite a bit less expensive IIRC as well, right?

When going 2:35, will it look goofy with 16:9 without masking? Is it possible to get a reliable, durable, masking set up for <$400 or $500?

Does anyone have experience or heard of anyone using the Vmax Tab-Tension Dual Series? Moving in a few months and looking at this screen paired with a JVC PJ with the motorized lens/lens memory for shifting between 2.35:1 and 16:9 content. Link here: http://shop.elitescreens.com/vmax-dual-tension.aspx

Im most curious about focusing the image since one screen is "behind" the other by "12 mm" according to the manufacturers website anyways. I want the motorized screen in order to use a flat panel tv positioned behind where the screens would drop for gaming and/or music listening, etc.

Any thoughts? I'm also eyeing the Aeon series with the "cinegray 3D" material (Link here: http://shop.elitescreens.com/aeon.aspx) so I could have some lights on for watching sports, etc, but I really want to have a flat panel in the room as well for gaming/non PJ use. Any input here is appreciated, thanks in advance.

I can answer one of your questions. We already had a 16x9 DaLite Electric drop screen.
For movies, we wanted a dedicated 2.35:1. So we added an Elite CineTension2 2:35 electric drop screen right behind it. When both are deployed, the two screens are separated by about 6". The lens memory on our projector (Sharp Z30K) will shift the image to fit each screen. The focus however, does not need changing. It stays sharp within this range, when viewed from our 15 ft seating distance. 12mm is not a lot of separation. You should be fine. However, one of the tweaks in the motorized lens memory (at least on the Sharp) is focus...

I read somewhere that if there was a problem with the screen under warranty, you provide proof you destroyed the one you have and they send you a new one. Is that correct? I want to shorten the power cord on mine, if they never take them back for service, then it won't make a difference and/or void the warranty.