Mount Shasta and Mount Eddy are seen from Cory Peak in the Scott Mountains.

Some big changes are afoot for land administration and trail development here in the Mount Shasta area. In the next few months, the Shasta-Trinity National Forest will be closing a deal that will transfer 19 parcels of land from private ownership to the Forest Service. These parcels, totaling around 10,000 acres, are spread across the Scott Mountains and the Eddy Range portion of the Trinity Divide. This is prime mountain real estate, filled with lakes, rocky peaks, lush meadows and expansive forests. In the coming years, trails will likely be developed through this new real estate, adding miles of hiking opportunities.

The impetus behind this transaction is the Pacific Crest Trail. Nearly every parcel is traversed by the PCT. The land owner was gracious to permit construction of the trail on their land but there was always a tenuous status for the trail and access rights. The funds necessary to complete this sale were secured largely through the agency of supporters of the PCT, thus enabling hikers, the PCTA and the Forest Service to have more control and flexibility in how the trail is routed and what kind of spurs and loops can be developed off of the PCT.

This land joins over 2,500 acres recently purchased on Mount Eddy. One section of this additional land includes a lengthy segment of the PCT while the rest of the land includes lakes, awesome cliffs and meadow-fringed ponds. Equally important, these additional parcels will permit legal access – and the subsequent development of trails – to many of the prettiest features on Mount Eddy. The possibilities for exciting and spectacular new trails are vast.

The red areas denote the new sections being acquired. The orange sections are those on Mount Eddy that were recently purchased. The Pacific Crest Trail is marked in yellow.

This may not seem like a big deal to hikers who already explore this area via the PCT or off trail. The land owners don’t seem to make a fuss about people crossing the land. This may be the case, but the transfer of land from private to public hands means that a whole new generation of trails may now be developed. Right now, only the Pacific Crest Trail crosses these mountainous areas. In the future, it is possible for new trails to be developed that will access lakes, the PCT, meadows, passes and peaks. The Eddy Range and the Scott Mountains have the potential be the home of a fantastic trail network for both backpackers and day hikers.

Rock Fence Lake is a first rate hiking destination.

Following the acquisition of the land, the current plan is to take it slow. A large reason for this is that all the resources devoted to new trail construction are being consumed by the awesome Gateway Phase II project. However, once that is completed, if a Phase III is not imminent, then energy can be refocused onto the Scott Mountains. The desire is there to construct new trails, trailheads and campgrounds and to make this area a vibrant recreation destination. Several lakes, previously privately owned, will be opened up and accessed via trail. One excellent example of this is Rock Fence Lake, which will surely become a popular hike. Other lakes, including Cabin Meadow, Bluff, Bull, Masterson Meadow and Grouse Creek Lakes will all be added to the national forest and trails to them will be developed. The Little Trinity River, a seldom appreciated creek, will also be open to hiking.

Robbers Meadow

Another awesome feature is the intended resurrection of a long segment of the Sisson-Callahan Trail. This was the original, 19th-Century route that connected the town of Callahan to Mount Shasta. At the time, Highway 3, which passes through Callahan, was the primary north-south route through this part of California. This made the SCT a critical transportation route. Currently, the section running from the near Lake Siskiyou up to Deadfall Basin is an active trail. In the near future, we may see the original pass at North Fork Sacramento/Bear Creek put back to use and then have the trail continue west along Bear Creek, cross the Trinity River and then climb up to Bull Lake. From there the plan is already forming to have it continue through nearby Robbers Meadow and then reconnect to the Pacific Crest Trail.

The Scott Mountains present the biggest opportunity to develop a fantastic trail network. The following gallery is a sample of the land potentially explored by a new trail network. Click to enlarge:

Rock Fence Lake is a first rate hiking destination.

View east from summit of Cory Peak

Bull Lake along the PCT.

Kangaroo Lake

Robbers Meadow

Mount Shasta viewed from above Lower Caldwell Lake.

Mount Shasta and Mount Eddy from the Scott Mountains.

Upper Caldwell Lake

Caldwell Basin cascade

Middle Caldwell Lake

Looking down on the Caldwell Lakes.

High Camp Basin.

High Camp Basin below the PCT.

High Camp Basin below the PCT.

View west along the Scott Mountains

China Mountain

China Mountain above High Camp Basin

Natural graffiti along the trail.

China Mountain and High Camp Basin.

High Camp Basin below the PCT.

Mount Eddy from the Cement Bluff.

The Cement Bluff above Bluff Lake.

Bluff Lake and High Camp Basin

Bluff Lake

The Trinity Alps from our sunset vista.

The view north, across in the Shasta Valley and into Oregon, where the pyramid of Mt. McLoughlin dominates.

Mount Shasta and rises beyond an unnamed peak.

Below is a map with a hypothetical trail network in the Scott Mountains based on conversations with the forest service. The proposed trails are marked purple. The blue line is the original route of the Sisson-Callahan Trail, which will likely be restored.

The Eddy Range has also seen significant additions of land. The previous land acquisition on the east side of Mount Eddy brings the potential for a host of new trails that access areas like Eddy Bowl. Also, the holy grail of lost areas, Dobkins and Durney Lakes, are now potential destinations for new trails coming from the Morgan Meadow and Eddy Bowl areas. Even more enticing, the section of land just east of Parks Creek Pass is being added. This yields the opportunity to actually construct a loop around Mount Eddy, connecting Deadfall Basin, the North Fork of the Sacramento Basin, Eddy Bowl and the Dobkins and Durney Basin, as well as a nice side trip up to Little Crater Lake. This would be an absolutely spectacular backpacking trip!

Below is a gallery of some of the lands added the transfer. Note that Toad Lake is already part of the national forest but the cliffs behind it and to the north of Porcupine Peak were not.

Upper Seven Lake

Meadow along the PCT.

Newly acquired peaks behind Porcupine Lake

The area behind Toad Lake is now public land.

Another view of Porcupine Lake.

Toad Lake and Porcupine Lake basin.

“Foxtail Basin” beneath Mount Eddy.

The Scott Mountains from the PCT.

North from Mount Eddy

Mount Shasta and the Cascades seen from Mount Eddy in the Klamaths.

The potential for new trails in these areas is astounding. It is a significant opportunity to develop the recreational resources this area has to offer. Both locals and visitors will benefit from the construction of new trails and the creation of new campgrounds. The potential to complement a world class mountain like Mount Shasta with a world class trail network to the west would be an awesome boon to all who enjoy the Mount Shasta area.

I should close with a word of caution. The building of trails in new areas always means the introduction of more people to areas previously minimally impacted by hikers. There is always a tension between use and preservation and I feel that tension in the very existence of this website. In the end, I tend to favor more trails and, hopefully, robust Leave No Trace training, though I remain sympathetic to those who think no or fewer trails is better for the land.

In my last post, I included a few images that captured the view of the Trinity Alps from our vantage point above the Pacific Crest Trail. The vast mountain range lies just west of the Trinity Divide and, in many ways, forms the great wilderness backyard for the Mount Shasta area. Knowing that this vast alpine paradise lies so close is a comforting thought when even the mountains around Mount Shasta seem insufficient to escape into. Their presence also enhances the local hikes. The horizon for many trails on Mount Shasta and along the crest of the Trinity Divide feature fantastic vistas of the dragontooth-like horizon formed by the many jagged spires and towers of the Trinity Alps.

This, of course, makes me think of all the different adventures that await in the Trinities. The area is so expansive that it almost runs together, making each area difficult to distinguish from the others. It was this that caused me to make a locator for the view from our hike:

A great deal of area falls within this viewshed. The area marked “N” is the Bear Lake Basin (actually the basin containing Little Bear Lake, but it is a smaller part of the larger whole). It lies about 14 miles away from our sunset vista. In contrast, the peak marked “I” is Monument Peak, which is an impressive 42 miles to the south. The whole area in between is all part of the massive Trinity Alps Wilderness. The 15 peaks (and 1 lake basin) identified here compose one of the more scenic portions of the Trinity Alps. Miles of trails course through this area and there are at least 14 lake basins visible here and a few dozen lakes contained therein. Some of these are among the most beautiful spots in all of Northern California.

For those unfamiliar with this large mountain area, it may come as a surprise that this area is actually only the southeast corner of the Trinity Alps. There is far more wilderness in these mountains than is visible from this vantage point. The crest of the Scott Mountain, extending west from where we were hiking blocks out the majority of the range. To give some perspective, I made a locator that includes the same area, but from the perspective hikers enjoy from the top of Mount Eddy. This view encompasses the entire eastern half of the Trinity Alps and includes the spectacular granite heart of the range as well as the western half of the Scott Mountains, which lies within the Trinity Alps Wilderness.

That is a magnificent block of alpine wildlands. We are blessed to have such an incredible wilderness resource to enjoy so close to Mount Shasta. In the summer, when Parks Creek Road is open, the closest trailheads lie less than an hour drive away from town. Anyone who has been fortunate enough to explore these mountains know what a blessing they are.

Of course, such an examination of the view to the south demands an analysis of the view north as well. From our vista above the PCT we could see numerous landmarks, most of which were in Oregon. The furthest away was Rustler Peak, which lay 88 miles away. Just south of that is the Fuji-like tower of Mount McLoughlin, the highest peak in Southern Oregon. One particularly interesting feature was the highlands of the Mountain Lakes Wilderness. From our vantage it appeared a nondescript ridge but that area certainly offers more than you might guess when looking at it from the outside. The interesting terrain is within a large caldera where rugged cliffs and numerous alpine lakes await hikers.

All in all, that is quite a bit of terrain taken in from one vantage point. The viewshed extends 120 miles from north to south. That is not too bad for a very short, easy hike. The trail leads through beautiful terrain and is suitable for kids under 4 to hike! What is not to love about that?!

The final PCT Spotlight focuses on a beautiful section of trail that travels from Parks Creek Pass to the Cement Bluff. This part of the PCT sees significantly fewer day hikers than the other portions featured in this blog series, despite beginning at the popular Parks Creek trailhead. This is probably due to the obscurity of the Cement Bluff and small Bluff Lake, which lies at the foot of the odd formation.

High Camp Basin below the PCT.

The hike to the Cement Bluff is the first section of the PCT to pass through the Scott Mountains, leaving the Trinity Divide behind at Parks Creek Pass. Though it is about 10 miles round trip from the trailhead to the Cement Bluff and back, it is a remarkably easy trip due to the level grade of the trail. The path makes a sweeping arc around High Camp Basin. This large bowl, along with adjacent Deadfall Basin, is the headwaters of the mighty Trinity River, which flows west for 165 miles to its confluence with the Klamath Mountains. Along the arc of the PCT, the trail passes through mostly open terrain, revealing many excellent views of the remote Scott Mountains. The destination for the hike is the fascinating Cement Bluff formation and small Bluff Lake. The Cement Bluff rises 300 feet over the lake. Its exposed cliff is composed of numerous boulders, both massive and small accreted together. It is a beautiful and unusual site.

Bluff Lake and High Camp Basin

This portion of the PCT is great for hikers willing to make the push all the way to the Cement Bluff. The views of High Camp Basin and China Mountain are excellent throughout. There is also a rarely seen but great perspective on Mount Eddy and Deadfall Basin from the top of the Cement Bluff. For hikers willing to do a little off-trail scrambling there is also a really good perspective on Mount Shasta from the ridge above the trail on the east side of High Camp Basin. If there is a real drawback to this hike, it is the lack of a maintained route descending from the PCT down to Bluff Lake. There is an obvious, established path descending down to the lake but it is steep and not a lot of fun climbing back up. Nonetheless, it is worth the effort to get to the small lake. It is beautiful in its own right but the view of the Cement Bluff’s strange cliff is one of the more unique settings in the Mount Shasta area and one not many people get to enjoy.

This is the last day of a gorgeous Memorial Day Weekend. In the midst of reflecting on what the day commemorates, getting outside appreciating the beauty of the land that we have been blessed with is certainly appropriate. As this time comes to a close, it is a good opportunity to enjoy another spectacular Mount Shasta sunset. Of course, many of the most popular trails, like Heart Lake, can get pretty busy. If you want to enjoy solitude and still take in the stunning alpenglow display, there are still numerous trails in the Mount Shasta area from which to enjoy the spectacle.

With all the people attempting to climb Mount Shasta right now, as well as hikers using the trailhead, Bunny Flat can seem like a real zoo. However, heading up on the Green Butte Ridge Trail will quickly leave the vast majority of the crowd behind and it is likely that you can have a grand seat to the sunset display from the ridge above Avalanche Gulch. Snow may still be lingering at the uppermost elevations of the path but one does not need to climb too high before getting a grand vista. It is a memorable way to watch the color on the mountain.

This is a popular trail but it is likely that most people will have headed home by the time one heads out in the afternoon to watch the sunset. The PCT from Gumboot Saddle is a gently undulating trail that heads along the spine of the Trinity Divide. Situated high above the headwaters of the South Fork of the Sacramento River, it boasts a prime vantage from which to watch the evening light on Mount Shasta. With its gentle grade and short distance to grand views, this is an easy hike to take kids on too, giving the little ones a chance to appreciate an alpine sunset.

The Scott Mountains don’t get too much attention but they ought to. They extend many of the best characteristics of the Trinity Divide several miles to the west, connecting the might Trinity Alps. The easiest trail in the range to reach is also one of the least used, leading to the small but beautiful Caldwell Lakes. On the way up, the path features staggering views of both Mount Shasta and Mount Eddy. Climbing to the rocky knoll above the trail as it passes by Lower Caldwell Lake will bring hikers one of the finest sunset views around. You are guaranteed splendid isolation here, and a majestic setting in which to enjoy it!

Another implication of the opening of the passes, specifically Parks Creek, is the quick availability of trails in Trinity Alps. The closest to the Mount Shasta area are the hikes to the Bear Lakes and Tangle Blue Lake. Other nearby trails include the routes to Stoddard Lake and to the summit of Billys Peak Lookout. Other destinations can be accessed from some of the trailheads, opening up the possibility of longer backpacking trips. The trails themselves should all be wide open and snow free by this point, so the Trinity Alps are open for business.

With the passes open, scenic driving is also a possibility. The loop up South Fork Road to Gumboot and then around to Horse Heaven Meadow and down into the Castle Creek drainage offers awesome views of the Trinity Alps, southern Trinity Divide and the Castle Crags. Driving up to Parks Creek Pass has awesome views of Mount Shasta, the Scott Mountains, Mount Eddy and the Trinity Alps.

All in all, this is perfect timing for the long weekend. With all the trails opened up (except for those at the Old Ski Bowl), there is more room for everyone to spread out and enjoy the Mount Shasta area without feeling like everyone is on the same trail. It is one of the (few) blessings of a light winter.

A spectacular morning view of Mount Shasta from the proposed Konwakiton Trail.

For the last several years, I have been highlighting the trails in the Mount Shasta area. We are blessed with a number of great tracks that lead to some truly stunning destinations. However, there remain a host of places that lack trails accessing them or the trail network is incomplete and could be significantly enhanced by the presence of a few more miles of trail. Some of these are in wilderness areas and the approval of construction in the protected land seems unlikely. Others are just not interesting enough to attract the effort necessary for the labor and money to be invested in these projects. This is OK, since it leaves these areas to the motivated and adventurous and promises that these secret spots will remain as they are. That said, there are still some places that I think warrant the effort to build. I believe these trails would instantly become classic Mount Shasta area trails and get significant use. Their addition would make an already great Mount Shasta hiking experience even better than it already is.

Unfortunately, the likelihood of many of these ideas coming to fruition are minimal. The Forest Service suffers from a lack of funding that impairs the possibility of many improvements to the trails. They want to make the hiking experience around Mount Shasta as good as it can be but the obstacles are great. Volunteer contributions are absolutely necessary. This ranges from actual trail construction to the commitment of significant funds to pay for the NEPA process (which is a major problem on its own!). Working through organizations like the Mount Shasta Trails Association is the best way to bring new trails into being.

I may expand on each of my proposals in individual posts. I would be interested in feedback you may have on any of these suggested trails.

5. Trinity Vista Trail

Deadfall Basin and Mount Eddy are classic destinations for hikers in the Mount Shasta area. The basin is filled with gorgeous lakes, awesome wildflowers and fascinating geology. There are two options for reaching the Deadfall area. Most hikers follow the Pacific Crest Trail from the Parks Creek Trailhead while others begin at the Deadfall Meadow Trailhead. The former is longer but requires almost no elevation gain. It has good views of the Scott Mountains and some particularly lush wildflowers as well as refreshing springs. The latter route is shorter but requires more climbing. It ascends into the basin through Deadfall Meadow, which is filled with creeks and even more impressive wildflowers and lush mountain gardens. These two routes each have much to recommend them. Unfortunately, they cannot be combined into a single trip without walking on the steep paved road that connects the trailheads. However, the two trails make up 75% of what could be a really excellent loop hike.

Trinity Vista Trail view of the snowy Trinity Alps.

To complete the loop, it would be necessary to construct about 1.75 of trail across the slopes that lie between Deadfall Creek and the road descending from the Parks Creek Trailhead. The addition of this trail would afford hikers the chance to hike into Deadfall Basin (and continue on to Mount Eddy if desired) by way of either the PCT or the Deadfall Meadow Trail and then return by the other route. This would allow for a much more diverse and scenic trip. What would the addition offer in terms of scenery? The area is mostly wooded but there are opening where vistas would be available. What is most notable is the opportunity to look out to the west where there is a spectacular view of the Trinity Alps. From the trail, the Bear Lake Basin is only 12 miles to the west and presents an grand foreground to the sawtooth-like horizon of the Trinities. This is particularly true near the top of the climb. Not only would the trail allow for the loop option to be employed, but for hikers only looking for a quick outing, the upper section, with its views of the Trinity Alps, would be an excellent easy walk.

4. Upper Sacramento Trail/Lake Siskiyou Trail Extension

For several years now I have been discussing the need to build trail sections that would allow for a backpacking loop that combined the Sisson-Callahan Trail, the Pacific Crest Trail, the Castle Lake Trail and the Lake Siskiyou Trail. I dubbed this proposed circuit the Headwaters Loop since it would completely encircle the three headwaters forks of the Sacramento River. Most of the loop is already built. An unofficial but established loop trail connects the PCT and Castle Lake. Though less than ideal, a dirt road follows much of Castle Lake Creek’s journey down to Lake Siskiyou. The most obvious hole in the loop is the section that would connect the Lake Siskiyou Trail with the Sisson-Callahan Trail at the North Fork of the Sacramento.

Hikers would have great views of Mt. Eddy along the river.

While this section of trail would be a key piece of the Headwaters Loop puzzle, I have a bit of a grander conception of what it offers. I propose building trail 1.75 miles from the inlet at Lake Siskiyou along the Sacramento River to the Sisson-Callahan Trailhead. However, more ambitiously, I propose building a sturdy wooden bridge (I will elaborate extensively on the bridge when I expand on this trail in a future post) across the Sacramento River and adding a section of trail that loops back to the inlet along the southern side of the river. This would accomplish several things. Naturally it would help complete the bacpacking loop I have suggested. More importantly, it would extend the Lake Siskiyou Trail along a beautiful section of the Sacramento River. This would allow the loop around the lake to be hiked all year when the seasonal bridges are not in place. When the seasonal bridges are in position, it would give hikers the option of doing a beautiful loop hike around a lovely section of the Sacramento River. A new trailhead could be built on South Fork Road at the place where the road makes a sharp turn to the west and begins to parallel the river. This would add more access to the Lake Siskiyou Trail and provide a good starting point for hikers sticking to the shorter river loop. This would have the further benefit of cutting down on vagrant encampments in this area. All in all, this has the potential to become one of the most popular sections of trail in the Mount Shasta City area.

3. Mount Shasta Bowl Trail

View towards the bowls and the area covered by the trail.

The upper reach of Everitt Memorial Highway has several awesome trails. Whether heading to the numerous destinations from Bunny Flat or Panther Meadow or the Old Ski Bowl, hikers are guaranteed spectacular scenery. The area is actually rather dense with trails, though they are generally divided between the lower ones originating at Bunny Flat and the upper trails that begin in the Old Ski Bowl area. The two sets of hikes are not connected by any maintained path. Whats more, the road to the Old Ski Bowl remains closed much of the year and the upper destinations are not accessible. This brings up my third proposed trail, which would run parallel to the Everitt Memorial Highway and connect Bunny Flat to the Old Ski Bowl. It would also be possible to add a spur trail that would split off and reach the road across from the entrance to the Panther Meadow parking area. Up until now, I have dubbed the route the Bowl Trail since it would pass beneath Sun Bowl and Powder Bowl, which lie on the south side of Green Butte Ridge.

This trail would accomplish several things. First, it would allow motivated hikers to reach the upper destinations earlier in the year. Obviously this is contrary to why the road remains closed but I believe the number of people heading up there on foot would be dramatically less than would reach the area in cars. Furthermore, hikers can already simply walk on the road to Panther Meadow. An established trail would be a much more pleasant way to channel people there. In fact, if the path simply went to the Old Ski Bowl without a spur to Panther Meadow, it would probably reduce the number of people who went to the meadow, since that area would be bypassed and lead straight to the Old Ski Bowl. The other benefit would be a fantastic loop that would connect both the Horse Camp Trail and the Green Butte Ridge Trail with the Old Ski Bowl Trail and facilitate a truly fantastic loop hike that would circumnavigate Green Butte. This route would require some rock scrambling over Green Butte Ridge but for those prepared of such a journey, it would be an epic hike.

2. China Basins Loop

Mount Shasta viewed from above Lower Caldwell Lake.

The high point of the Scott Mountains and the 4th highest peak in the Mount Shasta area, China Mountain is a criminally overlooked alpine destination. The tall peak rises at the eastern end of the Scotts, like the prow of a massive ship overlooking the Shasta Valley, which lies a mile below the summit. It is perhaps overlooked since it lakes a distinctive profile and much of its flanks are covered with dense forests. However, this hides the true character of the higher portions of the mountain. The summit of China Mountain is surrounded by three lake basins. While none of them house large lakes, the lakes themselves are still scenic and the rugged terrain that looms above them as very scenic. In many ways, the loop around China Mountain would be similar to the excellent Four Lakes Loop in the Trinity Alps. None of the lakes on China Mountain rise to the spectacular level of beauty as the four that lie around Siligo Peak but they are nonetheless beautiful. What the loop around lakes on China has, though, is eye-in-the-sky vistas that reach for great distances in every direction. These views would take in much of southern Oregon, Mount Shasta and a vast span of the Klamath Mountains including the Trinity Divide, Scott Mountains, Trinity Alps, Russian Wilderness, Marble Mountains and the Siskiyous. Take that Four Lakes Loop!

China Mountain is flanked by three basins that contain lakes as well as a 4th that has some large meadows in place of a lake. A 5th basin, High Camp Basin, lies immediately to the south and the highest corner of it makes the best passage for the trail. Two lake basins, the West Park Lakes and the Caldwell Lakes are headwaters for Parks Creek, which is a major tributary of the Shasta River. Crater Lake has no out let, but along with the meadow-filled basin, is in the Scott River watershed. High Camp Basin is one of the two sources of the mighty Trinity River. The ups and downs of the loop around the mountain, which would include a spur up to the summit of China Mountain would cross through three major watersheds! I think this trail would be destined to become a classic Mount Shasta area adventure!

1. Konwakiton Trail

In many ways, this is the trail that I have the grandest vision for and excites me the most. This trail combines an unusual creek, interesting volcanic and glacial geology, lush meadows and staggering views of one of Mount Shasta’s most beautiful profiles. The genesis of this trail concept began with the frustration over the lack of trails in the McCloud area. Basically all the hikes near the town were along the McCloud River. Squaw Valley Creek is an outlier but offers similar scenery to what is found along the river. Equally frustrating was the near total lack of views of Mount Shasta from any of these trails. I have written about how McCloud is an under-rated hiking destination but the lack of diversity and views of the mountain continued to nag at me. I have hunted around for features and places that would offer some interest to highlight this beautiful area. The one place I kept coming back to was infamous Mud Creek.

Mud Creek

Mud Creek begins high on Mount Shasta and flows through the mountain’s largest canyon. It then flows south through the McCloud Flats before suffering indignity and finally reaching the McCloud River. The creek’s name comes from the silt and glacial till in the water that gives it a muddy or chalky appearance. The name Konwakiton is the Wintu word for “muddy” and the creek’s ultimate source is the Konwakiton Glacier that lies just below Mount Shasta’s summit. The proposed trail would run parallel to the creek until it reaches the Great Shasta Rail Trail. It would then follow back along the creek before veering east. It would cut through forest until it reaches the edge of a large meadow, where hikers are greeted with an incredible view of Mount Shasta. It would then follow much of the meadow’s perimeter before cutting through the grassy fields back to the trailhead. My vision for this area is not limited to trails but also to the development of a new Forest Service campground, picnic area as well as possibly a walk-in campground and a mountain biking area. By way of the Rail Trail, it would also be accessible by foot, horse or bike from McCloud. I see this as possibly becoming a flagship area for Mount Shasta, which I tentatively refer to as the Konwakiton Recreation Area. The amazing thing is that much of the trail already exists…

The grandeur of the Klamath Mountains can be seen at Diamond Lake in the Trinity Alps.

This is a continuation of the the article examining California’s magnificent Klamath Mountains. Part I can be found here. This took an overview approach to the whole range and looked at the wildlands that are scattered throughout it. The Klamath Mountains are vast and it is much easier to appreciate the range by examining the various subranges in order to get a better idea of just how diverse and magnificent these mountains are. This article will break the range down by its numerous subranges and note some of the characteristics of each. It will only address the California portion of the Klamaths. The Oregon portion, notably the Siskiyous, the Kalmiopsis Wilderness and lower Rogue River area are outside the scope of this article and are best treated as a separate entity (and subject of a later article).

*Note that this map is only approximate and does not accurately represent the precise limits of each subrange of the Klamath Mountains.

North Yolla Bolly Mountains

North Yolla Bolly Mountain

Occupying the northern section of the Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness, the North Yolla Bolly Mountains are an isolate block of high elevation peaks. The North Yolla Bollys lies right on the transition zone between the Klamath Mountains and the North Coast Range. Geologically they are an island of metavolcanic rock surrounded by sedimentary and ulrtramafic rocks. Though they are distinct from the rock types of both the Coast Range and the Klamaths, their position within the latter range is secured by the presence of the South Fork of the Trinity River. This river’s headwaters lie immediately north and south of the North Yolla Bollies and then flows to the northwest for 92 miles before joining the Trinity River.

The North Yolla Bollys consist of a long ridge that towers over the surrounding mountains. The ridge is capped by the high peaks of North Yolla Bolly and Black Rock Mountain. These are the second highest points in the Yolla Bollys, after South Yolla Bolly, the highest point in the North Coast Range. Each of the two high peaks in the North Yolla Bollys host a single, small lake in north facing cirques. Along with the mountain summits, these are the most popular destinations in the range. Most of the North Yolla Bollys are protected in the Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness. Part of the freshmen class of wilderness areas established by the 1964 Wilderness Act, it is one of the least visited wild areas in California. Despite this, there is a well-developed trail network that accesses both the north side of the range and the wilderness’ remote interior. The trail passes through Petijohn Basin, with spurs leading to the small lakes and mountain summits before penetrating into the wildlands further south.

Southern Klamath Mountains

Inside the Massacre Natural Bridge.

Lying between the North Yolla Bollys and the main fork of the Trinity River is a large block of low to mid-elevation mountains. This area is covered with expansive forests and vast swaths of chaparral. There is no formal distinction for this region but its size demands its inclusion here. Drained by the South Fork of the Trinity River and Hayfork Creek on the west and Cottonwood Creek on the west, this area is the generally the lowest elevation region in the Klamath Mountains. The only significant upland area rises on the east side. Here, a ridge dotted with tall peaks climbs to elevations over 6,000 feet. The highest point, Bully Choop, stops just short of 7,000 feet. Two other notable peaks are part of this long ridge. Anchoring the western end is Chanchelulla Peak, protected by the tiny Chanchelulla Wilderness. At the eastern end is Shasta Bally, which is prominently visible from Redding. This peak is the highest point in Whiskeytown National Recreation Area. This park is the most well-developed area in terms of recreational amenities and attracts the most attention from hikers. Few other destinations are present in this part of the Klamath Mountains, the most worthwhile of which is the fascinating Massacre Natural Bridge, which is home to a short trail and loads of interesting geology.

Some maps identify this area as part of the Trinity Mountains. This seems like an unnecessary confusion. The Trinity Mountains lie further north, on the other side of Highway 299. The ranges are quite distinct from each other. The Shasta Bally/Bully Choop ridge is part of a granite batholith and forms the divide between the Trinity River and Cottonwood Creek. On the other hand, the Trinity Mountains are composed of sedimentary rocks and form part of the divide between the Trinity and Sacramento Rivers.

Trinity Mountains

Another one of the little known set of mountains within the Klamath Mountains, the Trinity Mountains are a collection of mid-elevation ridges and peaks that form the divide between the Trinity River and the Sacramento River. Blanketed by dense forest and some forbidding chaparral, the mountains here are generally sedimentary in nature. Though the Trinity Mountains forms the southern half of the divide between the Trinity and Sacramento Rivers, it also produces a significant watershed of its own. Clear Creek rises at the north end of the range and flows south for over 40 miles before it joins the North Fork of Cottonwood Creek. Clear Creek is impounded to form Whiskeytown Lake. The Trinity Mountains are one of the least developed parts of the Klamaths in terms of recreational infrastructure. There are no trails and only a lone, primitive campground near the headwaters of Clear Creek offers any sort of amenities.

“The McCloud Mountains”

McCloud River Canyon, the heart of the McCloud Range.

East of the Sacramento River and Interstate 5 lies the most forgotten and anonymous part of the Klamath Mountains. Lacking a name or any other sort of designation, these mountains present a rugged, impenetrable visage to those who take an interest in them. Though there are no trails or campgrounds in this remote region, there is one major recreation attraction. Major sections of these mountains are composed of marine sediment and in many cases this manifests as large limestone peaks. Typical of this kind of rock, caves have formed and the Shasta Caverns have become a popular destination. Though there are some major peaks, notably North Gray Rock (home of Shasta Caverns), Tombstone Mountain and Grizzly Peak, the most dominant feature in these mountains is the McCloud River. It rises far to the northeast but cleaves these mountains in two as it flows south toward the Pit River Arm of Shasta Lake. Its canyon is deep, narrow and remote. Though the range has no official name, the McCloud Mountains seems like a good choice, given its relationship to the river. Indeed, old maps from the 19th century identify these mountains accordingly, though the name never caught on.

The Trinity Divide

Despite being fairly unknown as a singular entity, the Trinity Divide is one of the most notable subranges of the Klamath Mountains. Its stature is ranked alongside the Trinity Alps, Salmon Mountains and Marble Mountains, the other tall, lake-filled subranges that make up the heart of Klamaths. The Trinity Divide has dozens of glacial lakes, large river valleys, high peaks and rugged terrain, just as those other mountain blocks do. What the Trinity Divide lacks is a large, federally recognized wilderness. It seems that without formal protections to alert hikers and backpackers, the Divide has kept just off the radar as a destination. Despite formal wilderness, much of this beautiful set of mountains retains its primeval character. Those very meager few who have entered Grey Rocks Basin at the head of the South Fork of Castle Creek or explored the small lakes atop the Castle Crags can attest to intact nature of the Trinity Divide’s wilderness.

Mount Eddy peeks over the mighty Castle Crags.

While there is not a large chunk of wildlands in the Trinity Divide, there is one small wilderness area. Though it is not large in area, in terms of scenic qualities, the Castle Crags Wilderness is a superlative destination. The obvious highlight is the mighty cluster of granite spire that make up the Castle Crags. Unlike the rest of the Trinity Divide, the Castle Crags are moderately well known and have their own devoted following of fans. Despite not being well known like the Castle Crags, the Trinity Divide has other landmarks that continue to shine brightly. Among these excellent features is Mount Eddy, the highest peak in the entire Klamath Mountain Range. This large mountain is not as magnificent as nearby Mount Shasta but it remains a massive mountain in its own right and is home to several glacial lake basins. Among the other lakes in the Trinity Divide is Castle Lake, one of the largest in the Klamaths.

The Trinity Divide is so named because it forms the divide between the headwaters of the Trinity and Sacramento Rivers. The Trinity is the largest of the rivers that rise in the Klamath Mountains and flow into the Klamath River. The Sacramento River is the longest and largest river in California. The Pacific Crest Trail follows the crest of the range, threading the needle between the waters that empty into the Pacific near amongst the North State redwoods and those waters that flow into San Francisco Bay.

Scott Mountains

East Boulder Lake in the Scott Mountains.

If the Trinity Divide is an obscure mountain range then the Scott Mountains are utterly forgotten. These beautiful mountains consist of a single long crest that runs for over 20 miles east to west. Much of the range is composed of reddish peridotite, giving it a distinct appearance. This rock is prominent in other parts of the Klamath Mountains but nowhere does it seem to be as ubiquitous as in the Scott Mountains. In many ways the Scotts seem like an extension of the Trinity Divide. The highest peak, China Mountain, is often considered the northernmost peak of the Divide rather than the most prominent summit of the Scott Mountains. Like the Trinity Divide, the Scott Mountains are named because they divide the headwaters of two rivers. The southern slope the range flows into the Trinity River. The northern slope is the headwaters of the Scott River, one of the major waterways of the Klamath Mountains. Several lakes are found in these mountains, many of which are accessed via a well-developed trail system. This is particularly true of the western half of the range, which is protected within the Trinity Alps Wilderness. The eastern half, with fewer (though there are still several notable lakes) and no wilderness protection, is a largely untapped resource for hikers. Worth noting, however, is Lover’s Leap, a set of crags which are home to a rapidly expanding rock climbing area.

Trinity Alps

Grizzly Lake in the Trinity Alps.

Although Mount Eddy may be the tallest point in the Klamath Mountains, the Trinity Alps are really the heart of the range. It is here that one finds the most expansive wilderness, the most spectacular mountains, the grandest scenery and the sense of limitless vastness that is a hallmark of the Klamath Mountains. It is in the Trinity Alps that hikers will most readily find the stunning landscapes that make the Klamath Mountains such an incredible, mysterious jewel of the North State. Towering, jagged towers composed of granite and other, more exotic rocks abound here. Gorgeous alpine lakes are set like glittering jewels beneath tall cliffs. Thundering waterfalls hammer against dense rocks and vast expanses of lush, beautiful forests blanket deep canyons and a seemingly numberless set of tall ridges. This truly is the heart of the Klamaths.

It is necessary to draw a distinction between the Trinity Alps Wilderness and the Trinity Alps as a subrange of the Klamath Mountains. The former is massive, totaling 560,000 acres. Its size is swelled by including portions of the adjacent Scott and Salmon Mountains. These sections of neighboring ranges lie on the divide between the Trinity River and the Salmon and Scott Rivers so are a natural fit within the wilderness area. Due to their inclusion in the large, protected wildlands, these sections are often thought of as part of the “Trinity Alps”, which is a natural, consequent association. The Trinity Alps proper, on the other hand, are somewhat smaller in area and lie wholly within the watershed of the Trinity River. For the purposes of this article, the sections of the Salmon and Scott Mountains that lie in the wilderness area have been separated out and addressed with their respective mountain ranges.

Classic beauty of the Trinity Alps.

The Trinity Alps can be divided into three general areas. In the west, there is a vast expanse of forested ridges and deep canyons. Drained by the North Fork of the Trinity River and the New River, this area has a few small lakes and a scattering of rocky peaks that punctuate the sea of green trees. On the east side of the Trinity Alps, butting against the upper Trinity River, there is a collection of tall peaks, deep lakes and vast expanses of meadow. The peaks here are rugged, rocky and beautiful. Geologically, this area is a mixture of granite and red and yellow peridotite. It has a striking appearance. Sandwiched between these two areas is the epicenter of the Trinity Alps. Composed of stark white granite, this area has the highest peaks, most rugged terrain and largest lakes. This is the area that truly supplies the “Alps” moniker to the entire range.

The entire range drains into the Trinity River. Some creeks flow west and join the river upstream from the impounded Trinity Lake while the rest flow south and join the river during its long journey west to join the Klamath River. Water is abundant within these mountains. The lakes and vast stretches of meadow feed the waterways well into summer and beyond. Several waterfalls, most notably in Canyon Creek and at Grizzly Lake, grace these mountains. Other smaller falls dot the area. Significant creeks include Canyon, Coffee, Swift, Deer, and Granite Creeks.

Trails course through the Trinity Alps and it is possible to string together paths to create trips that would last weeks. It is in the Trinity Alps that the great sense of remote expansiveness of the Klamath Mountains is most evident. Here hikers and backpackers can see for dozens of miles to the horizon knowing that civilization still lies even further away and the world around them is truly primitive.

Salmon Mountains

Taylor Lake in the Salmon Mountains.

In some ways, the Salmon Mountains are the great lost range of the Klamath Mountains. This is not because they are utterly lost and forgotten, but because the administrative nature of the national forest has broken up the range’s cohesion. The Salmon Mountains are those parts of the Klamaths that are drained by the Salmon River (often called the Cal Salmon, to distinguish it from the magnificent Salmon River in Idaho, the famed “River of No Return”). Geologically, these mountains are fairly homogenous. However, the administration of these lands has led to something of a disassociation of the range. Specifically, it is the wilderness areas themselves that have led to the demise of the Salmon Mountains. The southern part of the range is included in the Trinity Alps Wilderness. The northern corner is joined with the Marble Mountains Wilderness. The high country at the east end of the Salmon Mountains is contained in the small but spectacular Russian Wilderness. The northern and southern parts are consequently thought of as parts of their adjacent ranges while the Russian Wilderness is left as an entity unto itself.

Despite being broken up, these areas are thankfully preserved in their wild state and they are beautiful areas indeed. Granite towers, gorgeous lakes and lush meadows are found in these mountains, especially in the areas with the wilderness boundaries. Outside these protected areas, the range consists of lower, drier ridges that rise above the Salmon River. Trails are found throughout the area and hiking is easily the best way to experience this lost mountain range.

Marble Mountains

The Marble Mountain

Wild and expansive, the Marble Mountains are second in stature only to the Trinity Alps. Like the Trinities, they offer a high concentration of the best of the Klamath Mountains, with a few unique twists of their own. Occupying the high country between the Salmon River and the Klamath River, the Marbles are protected within the 250,000 acre Marble Mountains Wilderness. Here there are dozens of lakes, towering summits and large, swift flowing creeks. Numerous meadows abound. Geologically, the Marbles are diverse. Granite plutons, especially around English Peak in the south and the Cuddihy Lakes in the north, are found on the outskirts of the Marble Mountains. The interior has classic Klamath Mountains geology consisting of peridotite and serpentine as well as sedimentary rocks. The crown jewel of the range, however, is the presence of large blocks of marble. The most notable are found on Marble Mountain itself and at Kings Castle, rising above Paradise Lake. The former is the larger of the two is one of the most unique wilderness mountains to be found in the country. Composed of a long, sweeping slope of bright white marble, Marble Mountain is a striking, fascinating formation. Its northern side, however is a steep cliff that drops off sharply into the headwaters of the Elk Creek drainage. Sitting atop the eastern corner of this incredible formation is Black Marble Mountain, a roof pendant left over from the mountains formation.

The Marble Mountains are drained by the North Fork of the Salmon River as well as several other notable creeks. The largest creek in the range is Wooley Creek, which is the biggest tributary of the Salmon River. The eastern section of the range is part of the Scott River drainage. Notable creeks including Shakleford, Kidder and Canyon Creeks all contribute significant amounts of water to the Scott River. The northern section of the Marbles is part of the Klamath River’s immediate watershed and is empties into the river by way of large creeks like Elk and Grider Creeks.

Like other parts of the Klamath Mountains, there is an extensive network of trails that are reasonably well maintained. Weeklong backpacking trips are easily possible here. Unfortunately the Marble Mountains, especially the northern part, have experienced significant fire damage in the last few years. They remain beautiful and recovery has already commenced but hikers must anticipate snags and some trails in need of post-fire maintenance, especially in the more remote corners.

Little Scott Mountains and the Scott Bar Mountains

Duzel Rock seen in the upper left.

These two, small, ranges are in the far northeast corner of the Klamath Mountains. Neither climbs very high and has a strong high desert influence, especially along their lower flanks. The Little Scott Mountains’ southern boundary begins along the East Fork of the Scott River and Willow Creek. The latter is part of the Shasta River watershed. The northern boundary is where the small range meets the Scott Bar Mountains just west of Yreka. They form the divide between the Scott and Shasta Valleys. Though the Little Scott Mountains lack the rugged character of most of the Klamath Mountains, they do contain a couple notable features. First is Scarface Ridge and Antelope Mountain. These constitute the crest of the range. The other notable landmark is Duzel Rock. This massive rock protrusion is home to a Calfire lookout.

The Scott Bar Mountains rise higher than the Little Scott Mountains. Consequently, they do have more forest cover than the Little Scott Mountains. These mountains form the divide between the Scott Klamath Rivers. Running east to west, they join with the Little Scott Mountains just west of Yreka. Neither of these mountain ranges is in anyway developed for recreation. The only destination of note is Greenhorn Park in Yreka. This attractive park is on the very eastern fringe of the Scott Bar Mountains and has a well-developed trail system as well as a lake, playgrounds and other recreational facilities. Lack of significant blocks of public land further impair recreational potential of these small mountain ranges.

Siskiyou Mountains

Devils Punchbowl in the Siskiyou Mountains.

Forming the great northern bulwark of the Klamath Mountains, the Siskiyous form the great divide between the Klamath River and Rogue River watersheds. Forming a vast crescent, the Siskiyous stretch from Siskiyou Summit, where the Klamaths and Cascade Range meet, to the low hills near the confluence of the Klamath and Salmon Rivers. This long arc includes some magnificently rugged terrain and gives rise to several large creeks that feed into the Klamath River. The Illinois and Applegate Rivers, the two main tributaries of the Rogue River, also form on the northern slope of the Siskiyou Mountains. The range can roughly be divided into two sections. The most heavily used is the long east-west ridge that runs from Siskiyou Summit west toward Thompson Ridge. A significant portion of this half of the Siskiyous lies in Oregon. Mount Ashland, the highest peak in the Siskiyous is found here. The other part of the Siskiyous is almost entirely in California as it dips south along the Klamath River. This area is much more rugged with numerous large lakes and craggy peaks. It is crowned by epic Preston Peak, which is only slightly shorter than Mount Ashland but far more prominent and rugged.

Two wilderness areas are found in the Siskiyous. The Red Buttes Wilderness is the smaller of the two and receives somewhat heavier use due to its easy access from Oregon and relative proximity to population centers. Several small lakes are found in this wilderness, many of which form the headwaters of the Applegate River. The Red Buttes themselves are the centerpiece of the wilderness. Composed of bright red peridotite, they are classic Klamath Mountains peaks. In contrast to the diminutive size of the Red Buttes, the Siskiyou Wilderness is the third largest wildlands in the Klamath Mountains with over 170,000 acres. This vast land is not as tall as the other major subranges of the Klamath Mountains but it has extremely rugged, rocky terrain, several notable peaks and a number or large, deep lakes. Sinuous Clear Creek drains the interior of this exceptional wilderness.

The Klamath Mountains In Oregon

The somewhat arbitrary line that marks the border between California and Oregon also divides the Klamath Mountains. A significant chunk of the range lies north of the border in the Beaver State. Much of this is part of the Siskiyou Mountains. However, there are other areas that are noteworthy. In particular is the amorphous block of mountains that is centered on the Kalmiopsis Wilderness. These mountains were devastated by the 2004 Biscuit Fire but they remain beautiful and are well down the road to recovery already. These mountains exhibit typical Klamath Mountains geography. Nowhere it this more evident than around Vulcan Peak and small Vulcan Lake, where the red peridotite that is so common in the Klamaths is quite evident. However, geology only makes up half of the metrics by which the Klamaths are determined. Watersheds are also important and the fact that these mountains are drained by the Illinois and Chetco, the former of which feeds into the Rogue River, makes this area feel like a region apart from the main block of the Klamath Mountains. Even much of the Siskiyous, though part of the divide between the Rogue and the Klamath, feel like they are once removed from the Klamath Mountains as well. Perhaps in time they will receive their own treatment in this geography series.

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