How to Make a Long Island Iced Tea, If You Must

Did you know it's National Iced Tea Month? Didn't think so. But this occasion gives us a chance to reconsider one of the most maligned summer cocktails in American history, the Long Island Iced Tea, which has been the butt of jokes everywhere from New York speakeasies to The Simpsons. It's known less as a drink than a way of getting drunk: a sugary but powerfully alcoholic concoction of cola and just about every house liquor behind the bar.

But is it really that bad? Recently, it seems like bartenders have backed away from ritual mocking of the drink. You can find a version at David Chang's Ma Peche in New York City, and even Ina Garten makes her own variation. According to Esquire drinks correspondent David Wondrich, enjoying a Long Island is all about not taking yourself too seriously: "It's not the worst drink in existence. It is, however, strong and trashy." Which means, yes, you should probably be drinking something else, but as long as you're doing it, you might as well do it right. Wondrich has his own "fancy" version, which is like the classic but with better brands. You can find the recipe below. Just don't blame him for what happens — this isn't one he likes to claim responsibility for. "As a proud-ish son of Long Island, I wish it had been invented on the Jersey Shore."

The David Wondrich Long Island Iced Tea

Shake well with plenty of ice:

1/2 oz Absolut vodka

1/2 oz Beefeater gin

1/2 oz Don Q white rum

1/2 oz Milagro blanco tequila

1/2 oz Cointreau

1/2 oz fresh lemon juice

2 teaspoons simple syrup (equal parts water and sugar)

Strain into an ice-filled Collins glass. Top off with 1/2 oz Coca-Cola. Garnish with a lemon wedge and add a straw.