By “skin type”, I mean what you inherited from your mama and papa and not a “skin condition”, such as rosacea, dehydrated or acne. It’s generally accepted that there are five different skin types: normal, oily, dry, sensitive and combination.

Now, having said that, there are many factors that affect the condition of the skin: hormones, weather, pollution, diet and stress, just to name a few. Your skin condition may change according to these elements, but the natural tendency of your skin will remain the same. For example, you may have an oily skin type, but because of dry weather and improper hydration, your skin may be dehydrated and feeling dry.

Let’s briefly go over each skin type. * Normal skin is supple and well balanced, not too oily or too dry. *Oily skin is shiny, with larger pores and is more prone to acne. *Sensitive skin is usually dry and can easily become red and irritated. *Dry skin will be flaky, dry and will feel tight. Complexion will be dull and pores will be smaller. *Combination skin is usually oily through the T-zone, which includes the forehead, nose and chin. The skin around the cheeks and eyes will be dry.

Dos and Don’ts

Oily Skin-Wear an oil-free sunscreen. Sun exposure increases oil production-Still use moisturizer, but be sure it’s for oily skin and it’s a light one. If you don’t your skin will produce more oil within 4 hours, be open for bacteria and cause more acne blemishes.-Don’t over-cleanse. If you do, you stimulate more oil production and disrupt the P.H of your skin. Two times per day is enough

Dry Skin-Stay away from mineral oils, lanolin and synthetic fragrances-Increase fluids, but watch your caffeine intake-Use a gentle, non-foaming cleanser, only at night, not in the morning-Also add a serum to your daily routine before your moisturizer and a face scrub to gently exfoliate those dead skin cells

Sensitive Skin-Stay away from synthetic fragrances-Always test products on a small area before using all over your face-Use cool water to cleanse the skin, especially at the end of every shower

Combination Skin-T-Zone tends to be the oily/problematic one, so use a lighter moisturizer there and a medium consistency on the rest of the face to make sure you’re feeding your skin properly -Use proper products for each area of your face-Be sure to exfoliate

It’s important to use the proper skin care products for your particular type of skin. Using the wrong product can aggravate your skin and make any skin condition you may be dealing with worse.The best person to discuss this with.. your Esthetician, Me!

Schedule a custom facial right now and discover your skin type, the best home care regimen and proper skin habits for your skin type.

Cold, dry weather can have us all slathering on more lotion and cream. But, for those who suffer with skin conditions like psoriasis and eczema it signals the beginning of a seemingly endless battle of intensely itchy, irritated skin and embarrassing patches of redness and open sores.

About 20% of children suffer with eczema and 3% of adults deal with eczema or psoriasis. Neither is contagious and though one single cause is still unknown, the origins of both are genetic and can be triggered by allergies and stress.

Eczema, also know as “Atopic Dermatitis” is a chronic inflammatory skin disease which causes dry, itchy, irritated skin. It can appear anywhere on the body, but many times occurs on the elbows and behind the knees.

Irritants such as soaps, detergents or shampoos can trigger or worsen the symptoms. The culprit can differ from person to person, so it’s important to pay close attention to find what may be a trigger for you. Environmental allergens like dust mites, pet dander or mold can also cause a flare up, as can food allergies. One thing’s for sure-finding the root cause of atopic dermatitis can be very difficult.

Psoriasis is a more involved and complex condition. People affected by psoriasis are at an increased risk for cardiovascular disease and other immune related inflammatory diseases.

While the edges of eczema rashes have irregular edges, psoriatic lesions tend to be more distinct. The most common type of psoriasis is Plaque Psoriasis, which produces raised, thickened patches of red skin covered with silvery scales. While normal skin takes 28-30 days to mature, psoriatic skin matures in 3-4 days. Instead of sloughing off, the dead skin cells pile up on the surface and trigger inflammation and overproduction of skin cells.

Without a known cause, treatment consists of managing the symptoms and doing all you can to lead a healthy lifestyle. Traditional treatments eczema include, steroid creams and antihistamines. General rules of thumb are: taking short warm (not hot) showers, pat skin with towel and immediately apply moisturizer after your shower.

In severe cases of both eczema and psoriasis, Phototherapy may be used. Phototherapy uses ultraviolet light to help reduce the itch, bring down inflammation and increase Vitamin D production.

Treatment for Psoriasis also includes steroid creams. Salicylic acid may be used for small areas as it promotes shedding of psoriatic scales. Calcipotriene, another topical ointment, is related to Vitamin D and may be used in limited amounts. Doctors may also prescribe retinoids. In severe cases, oral medication that suppresses the immune system may be used.

Lifestyle changes can also help symptoms from both psoriasis and eczema. You may try an anti-inflammatory diet, such as, cutting out sugar, white bread and pasta, alcohol, milk and gluten. Add in fish oil and plenty of fresh leafy greens.

Managing your stress level is very important as stress can trigger and worsen your symptoms. Try exercise, meditation and of course getting a relaxing treatment at my spa.

If you prefer more natural, at home treatments, you can try Aloe Vera gel, Calendula cream and taking Epsom salt or Dead Sea Salt baths. Essential oils, such as lavender, chamomile or neroli mixed with almond or jojoba oil can soothe and reduce inflammation. Coconut oil is also excellent for the skin and can be applied directly to the affected areas. You can also make a paste out of nutmeg powder and warm water and apply to the skin. And last, but not least, drink lots of water!

Although a single cause of eczema and psoriasis is still unknown, you still have the power to do what you can to reduce flare-ups and ease the symptoms

Tips on Dealing with Oily Skin

Go easy with the blotting paper. It can push dirt and oil deeper into the pores

Use products specifically for oily skin.

Use a cleanser with salicylic acid

Use a lighter foundation

Switch to a lighter face cream

The fight against oily skin usually intensifies during these hot and humid months of summer. But in our quest for that beautiful matte finish, we can actually aggravate the skin and give the oil more ammo for its’ battle. The natural inclination to scrub, wipe and cleanse the oil away can cause the skin to dry out, triggering the body to release even more oil.

The top causes of oily skin:

Hormones

Our bodies are at the mercy of hormones-they control pretty much every process in our systems, including oil production in the skin. So as expected, during times like puberty or pregnancy, when hormones are racing through veins, we’re more prone to oily skin.

Heat/Humidity

The weather definitely has an effect on our skin. While those with dry skin have probably been loving the humidity we've been having, all of my oily skin peeps are probably counting the days until cooler, drier weather.

Stress

Stress causes an inflammatory response in the body, including an increased production of oil. That’s why during stressful times in our lives, and often when we want to look our best, lo and behold-we have the inevitable breakout.

Over-cleansing the skin

Getting too aggressive and trying to scrub the oil away will irritate and dry out the skin-causing an increase of oil production. Also, be careful to use the correct products for your skin type. For example, if you have combination skin, but use products for oily skin it’ll dry out the dry areas further and cause more oil to be produced.

Genetics

When in doubt, just blame your genes, right?! But, unfortunately try as we may, there are just certain attributes we can’t get around. And yes, our sebaceous glands (glands that produce oil) are one of them.

I don’t want to be a nag, but I've noticed that many of my clients don’t drink water. Excuse me?You want nice skin, but don’t drink water? Really?? We've all heard the facts and figures, but somehow it still is not a priority for many of us. So I’m taking it upon myself to drill it into your head...Drink more water!! And here’s why...

Our bodies are made of 60% water and it’s involved in most of our bodily functions. When you think of the uses of water in general, what comes to mind? It flushes, transports, moisturizes ­the list can go on and on. It does all this inside our bodies too; flushing out toxins, transporting nutrients, keeping our joints lubricated and skin supple.

Next time you urinate, take notice of the color and smell. If you’re well hydrated it will be clear and free of odor. Does it flow nicely or trickle? It’s important to take note of these things because it’s linked to the health of your kidneys. The kidneys are a vital organ because they remove waste and toxins from the body, produce red blood cells and also hormones which regulate blood pressure. Being chronically dehydrated may put you at a greater risk for developing kidney stones. Ouch! Go ahead, take a water break right now!

Staying hydrated is also crucial for digestion and normal bowel function. It helps food move through the intestines and prevents constipation. The body also needs water to maintain body temperature and to keep our muscles from fatiguing.

So how much water is enough? That depends on many different factors, but a good rule of thumb is dividing your body weight in half and drinking that much in ounces every day. Of course, other fluids you intake during the day counts towards that number as well. I’m stressing the importance of water here because you don’t get the extra calories and sugar as in sodas and juice. It’s true there’s water in coffee, however, caffeine being a diuretic, it actually causes an increase in fluid loss.

Scars are usually forever, but you do have options when it comes to minimizing their appearance. Scars occur when damage is done to the dermis, which lies beneath the top layer of skin, the epidermis. Damage done only to the epidermis will usually heal without a scar.

Available treatments for scar minimization include:

surgical revision

laser treatments

injections,

dermabrasion

chemical peels

topical creams.

Scar prevention and minimization starts with proper wound treatment. Or in the case of acne, treating it as soon as it starts and of course not picking and popping. Let’s start with some tips for treating wounds to help minimize scarring.

Wound Care Tips to Minimize Scarring:

Allow it to “breathe” as much as possible. Make sure that bandage is not too tight so that it will allow air to flow in between.

Don’t soak or get wet for extended periods because it will break down the scab and impair the formation of new skin underneath.

After a day or two, apply a thin layer of a light gel moisturizer or serum containing skin healing ingredients.

Stay out of the sun as much as possible because it makes scarring worse.

Don’t pick or scratch the scab. If it’s itchy, apply a thin layer of a lightweight moisturizer.

Don’t use hydrogen peroxide to clean wound as it can destroy new skin cells.

Once the wound has healed, there are several ingredients you can find at home that will help to reduce scarring. These include:

Olive Oil: Rich in antioxidants and a natural moisturizer, massage onto area once a day

Coconut Oil: Contains lauric, caprylic, and capric acid which helps scars to fade as well as minimizes scar formation

Baking Soda: To be used as microdermabrasion to encourage the growth of new skin cells. Mix 1 teaspoon with 2 teaspoons of purified water and rub over area for 1 minute and rinse

Lemon Juice: Mix the juice of 1 lemon with 1 cup of water and apply to scarred area for 3-4 minutes, rinse and apply moisturizer if using on face.

Rosehip Oil: Rich in vitamins and antioxidants, it helps heal the skin and reduce scarring. Massage the oil onto the affected area once or twice a day.

Over the counter topical creams are also available, but buyer beware. A study done in 2009 by the University of Pennsylvania and published in the American Academy of Dermatology, found that “there’s little evidence that they work any better than inexpensive petroleum jelly”. Dr. Joseph Sobanko, a dermatological surgeon at the University of Pennsylvania Health System says, “The only thing really shown to help the healing process and minimize scarring, is keeping a wound moist and covered’.

Dr. Audrey Kunin, board certified dermatologist and “Dr. Oz” expert suggests using vitamin A creams or rejuvenating creams packed with antioxidants and vitamin C. Specific to acne, injectable fillers may be used to reduce the visibility of saucer shaped depressions or “pock marks”. The effects can last anywhere between 3 to 12 months.

Fortunately, you have many different options when dealing with scars. There is no one size fits all remedy, so be patient and willing to try different options. Remember, prevention and proper care is best whether treating a wound or dealing with acne.

The body goes through many changes during pregnancy and although we may think the days of having to deal with acne are long gone, it can once again rear its ugly head. The culprit-increased hormone levels can also cause hyper-pigmentation.

Before you try to zap those zits, it’s important to know what is safe to use and what isn’t. Some medications have been linked to complications during pregnancy and birth defects. It’s always best to consult your doctor before starting any kind of acne treatment.

In doing research for this posts, there were certain medications that all sources agreed were NOT safe. So let’s cover those first...

Medications to Avoid

Retinoids which includes:

Differin (Adapalene)

Retin-A, Renova (Tretinoin)

Retinoic Acid

Retinol

Retinyl Linoleate

Retinyl Palmitate

Tazorac, Avage (Tazarotene)

Antibiotics

Accutane (Isotretinoin)

Tetracycline

Doxycycline

Minocycline

Hormonal Therapy

Estrogen

Flutamide

Spironolactone

I found differing opinions on Salicylic Acid or Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA), which I would translate as avoid if possible. In its oral form, studies have shown it causes birth defects and various complications during pregnancy. However, dermatologist Sandra Marchese Johnson stated in an article posted on Babycenter.com, “small amounts applied to the skin-such as a salicylic acid-containing toner used once or twice a day-are considered safe”. Remember, the longer it sits on your skin the more opportunity it has to seep into the bloodstream.

Benzoyl Peroxide is another ingredient I found conflicting opinions on. At Mayoclinic.org it says that there’s been little research on the safety of its use during pregnancy, but problems have not been reported. At Webmd.com, it says products containing benzoyl peroxide appear to be safe. Dr. Brandith Irwin at Skintour.com recommends avoiding this medication during pregnancy. The bottom line, appears to be safe, however there are really no studies to back this general consensus.

Medications for Rosacea

Metronidazole is prescribed for rosacea and studies done on animals did not show fetal damage, however it does cross the placental barrier. According to the FDA, it should not be used in the first trimester. See above for any acne medications (which may be prescribed for acne) that you stay away from.

Now let’s look at which treatments are considered safe to use during pregnancy…

Safe to Use

Erythromycin (Erygel)

Clindamycin (Cleocin T, Clindagel)

Azelaic Acid (Azelex, Finacea)

Safe for Hyperpigmentation

Kojic Acid

Mandelic Acid

Generally you want to avoid over cleansing because this can overstimulate the skin’s oil glands, use a gentle non-abrasive cleanser and don’t pick or pop your pimples. Of course, you can always come and see me for a facial and I’ll help to get your skin back on track.

Whether you choose natural or synthetic brushes, it is all about the bristles. To determine the quality of a makeup brush, you need to look at the bristles.

Makeup brushes contain three parts: the bristles; the handle; and the ferrule, which is the metal piece that attaches the bristles to the handle. The bristles will be made from either natural animal hair or synthetic fibers.

Natural bristles

Sable, squirrel, goat, pony and badger are animals from which the natural bristles of makeup brushes derive. Sable is the most expensive of natural hairs and usually considered the softest. Squirrel hair is a close second. Goat and pony hair come next. Both offer a soft bristle but without the luxurious feel of sable or squirrel. Since badger hair is coarsest, bristles made from it are less pliable than those of other natural hair. Badger bristles work best when brushing brow liner.

Top-quality natural bristle brushes will have first-cut or virgin hairs. This hair is sheared from only the fine-tipped points of fur. Second-cut hairs will be blunter than and not as soft as first-cut hairs.

Synthetic bristles

Man-made or synthetic fiber bristles are manufactured from nylon or taklon.

These fibers are often treated, which softens the bristles. Taklon bristles are also hypoallergenic, making them a good choice for anyone who suffers from skin sensitivity or allergies.

The basic benefit of natural bristles is that this type of makeup brush holds onto powders more efficiently, providing a flawless finish. Synthetic bristles work better with creams and in general are much easier to clean and maintain. The synthetic bristles absorb less pigment from the makeup, ensuring that the bristles do not discolor as quickly as natural bristles do. In addition, synthetic bristles are preferred by animal lovers who wish to own only vegan makeup tools.

Brush maintenance

Whether you choose natural or synthetic makeup brushes, it is essential to clean them properly. The basic rule is any brush that is used daily should be cleaned weekly. Brushes used with creams or liquids will need to be cleaned more frequently than those used with powdered cosmetics.

Baby shampoo in warm water works fine for natural or synthetic bristles. Always rinse the soap thoroughly from the brush, but do not submerge it into the water. When drying the brush, never stand it upright. Keep it angled so that the water does not seep into the ferrule. Always keep your makeup brushes in their own case to maintain their best quality.

Acne, being the most common skin condition in the U.S., one would think it’d be easier to deal with and overcome. Yet, despite all the information and treatments available, some may find that the right solution remains just out of reach. What’s up with that?!

The cause of acne according to the American Academy of Acne is straightforward enough: Pores get clogged with dead skin cells and oil, which then attracts bacteria and causes the pore to become red and swollen. So, if that’s the case, just scrub and squeeze the heck out of those pores and all should be good, right?

Just writing that makes me cringe! Luckily, we all know better by now. Scrubbing, over cleansing, poking and prodding all irritate the skin more and can cause more sebum (oil) to be produced, making the situation even worse.

Acne can be triggered by many factors, including: hormones, stress, genetics, diet and certain medications. This makes it harder to get to the root cause of the breakouts.

Searching for an answer, some acne sufferers have gone back, way back...about 3,000 years to a traditional chinese medical practice called Face Mapping. This refers to a diagnostic tool which consists of mapping out the face into zones. Each zone then correlates to certain organs of the body. The following table breaks it down:

Eat more fiber, fresh fruit and vegetables, eat less spicy and fried food

You may be skeptical, but if you’ve had a hard time finding the right solution, it’s worth checking out. Remember, your skin is the largest organ of the body, so it makes sense that breakouts can be a symptom of something deeper going on.

As boring as it may sound, going back to the basics of proper nutrition, sleep, getting plenty of water and exercise is always a good place to start.

The heat is on for all of us San Diego Waxing and Facial fans! This means our bodies will dehydrate faster and our skin will show the drying effects of a dull and wrinkled complexion. And just because your skin is dry doesn't mean you don’t have to worry about breaking out. Actually, it could trigger your body to produce more oil, increasing the likelihood of congestion and breakouts.

My first suggestion is an obvious one, however surprisingly ignored by many people, which is -drinking enough water. The skin being the largest organ of the body not to mention one of the first things people notice when they look at us, gives us an excellent reason to take proper care of it. The dull complexion I mentioned above occurs when the stratum corneum, the top layer of skin, becomes overcome by dead skin cells because of the lack of moisture.

A good rule of thumb for water intake is this: take your body weight, divide it in half and that is the amount of water in ounces you should be getting everyday.

So, get yourself a water bottle which is marked with measurements and keep that with you all day, so you know exactly how much water you've taken in. If you’re a coffee lover like I am, it’s even more crucial to increase your water intake. Coffee is a diuretic, which means you’ll have more trips to the bathroom releasing the liquids you've taken in.

Now that we've talked about hydrating on the inside, let’s look at hydrating on the outside with oil, humectants and occlusives (oh my!).

For those prone to acne and congestion, you may cringe when I talk about applying oil to the face. Some of you in fact work very hard to scrub away all that oil. Actually, this is often counter productive because you are signaling the skin to produce more oil and interestingly enough, studies have shown that acne sufferers are deficient in essential fatty acids.

Oil is classified as an occlusive which means it locks moisture into the skin. If you’re prone to breakouts, I’d suggest using light oils such as sweet almond oil or jojoba oil. Applying them after a bath or shower is best. Other natural occlusive's include shea butter, cocoa butter and squalene which is derived from olives.

Humectants attract and hold on to water. They work by pulling moisture up from the dermis into the epidermis. Some popular humectants are glycerin, honey and hyaluronic acid. The latter, can attract and hold on to 1,000 times its weight in water which can definitely give you a glowing and supple complexion. Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the body-it’s what gives the skin a plump and supple appearance, but diminishes with age. Glycerin is commonly found in skin care products, but can also be purchased as a stand alone ingredient.

The dry San Diego weather definitely makes it hard to stay hydrated, but follow my suggestions and you’ll find your skin glowing and radiant in no time. Remember to drink lots of water, don’t over wash or exfoliate and find a moisturizer with both a humectant and an occlusive.

Why not get a jump start and come in for a Glycolic or Lactic Peel or a Fruit Enzyme Treatment which will gently exfoliate dead skin cells and impurities.

With all of this summer like weather we’re having in San Diego, it’s a good preview of what we have in store for the upcoming months. Sun, sun and more sun-it’s good for the soul, but not so good for the body. Breakouts, hyperpigmentation, sunburns, dehydration, etc. can all wreak havoc on our skin.

There’s one great solution for this...be a vampire. Yes, stay inside all day and only come out at night. Ok, so that’s pretty much not going to happen, right? I mean we all live here in San Diego for a reason and the weather is a big part of it. So, of course you want to enjoy the sun, but we need to protect our skin as much as possible. This means applying sunscreen (read my post on sunscreen if you haven’t already), wearing a hat and protective clothing and yes, staying out of the sun as much as possible.

Getting a facial in San Diego is very important because it can help repair and replenish sun damaged skin. Your skincare regimen at home also plays a vital role and besides your daily routine, you can add in a special treatment every so often.

Here are 5 tricks and treatments you can add to your summer skincare regimen:

1. Chill Out with Ice

Prime skin: Before applying foundation, rub an ice cube all over your face, focusing on areas with large pores to create an extra smooth complexion

Shrink a zit: put ice in a plastic baggie and place on area for 5-10 minutes to decrease inflammation and redness

2. Exfoliating Papaya Mask

Papaya contains the enzyme papain which digests the keratin protein build up on the surface of the skin without causing excessive heat or inflammation

Simply mash up the papaya and add honey or yogurt, spread all over face and leave on for 10-15 minutes, rinse with warm water and end with a splash of cold water

3. Banana Mask for Oily Skin

Mash up 1 banana, add 2 TBSP honey and a few drops of juice from a lemon or orange. Apply all over face or to the oily areas (most likely the T-zone) and leave for 10-15 minutes. Remove with a warm washcloth.

4. Acne Basil Toner

Crush up 3 TBSP of dried basil leaves and mix into 1 cup of boiling water. Once cooled, strain out the leaves and put into spray bottle. Spritz face and use a cotton ball to spread gently around face

5. Sunburn Treatment

Soak a cloth in a bowl with equal parts milk, water and ice cubes and hold the cloth on the burned area for 5 minutes

Now that you have 5 more tricks in your summer skin care arsenal, you can go out and enjoy your day. As always, your friendly San Diego esthetician is here to help. Let me know if you have any questions or click here if you’d like to schedule an appointment online.

It’s only the end of April, but here in sunny San Diego it feels a lot like summer. And with the hot weather comes more outdoor activities; barbecues, beach parties, exercise, etc. At this point, everybody knows the dangers of long term unprotected sun exposure, but there may still be some lingering questions or misunderstandings. With so many different sunscreens to choose from, it’s hard to know what to look for.

Okay, let’s get one thing straight. When you come in to see me, you won’t find me wearing thick glasses and a pocket protector. But, you will find a sassy, chic, information-lovin’ beauty professional. And, I wear the “nerd” title with complete and utter respect for nerds everywhere. “Why?” - you say? Because we love to learn and we love to teach.

As we age, our skin will go through many changes. From oily and pimply to fine lines, wrinkles and age spots. To keep our skin in top shape we need to periodically reassess our skin and act accordingly. We’ll get into that later.

First, I want to talk about the universal rules we could all follow-you know, do this, don’t do that. Now, I’m not trying to sound like your mama, but who couldn’t use a little reminder every now and then. Paying attention to these little tips can go a long way in your skincare regimen. These tips are in addition to the common ones that we all know, such as, wearing sunscreen, getting enough sleep, etc.

If you bother to look at the ingredients in your beauty products, you’ll see a lot of big and seemingly impossible to pronounce words. Polyethyl-something, phenyl-whatever, dibutyl-huh? And pthalates? Who knew a silent “P” ever existed.

It can be overwhelming to say the least. Enough so that most of us shrug our shoulders and trust the powers that be, that if it were unsafe it wouldn’t be allowed in consumer products. Right? Wrong. Would you believe that many of these chemicals are also found in industrial products, such as pesticides, degreasers, paint and concrete?

Makeup (depending on how it’s done) can be your best friend or your worst enemy. With so much information out there, it’s hard to know who you can trust. Well, as your friendly and trusted skin care professional, let me guide your way.

As a beauty professional and makeup artist, I’ve learned a trick or two along the way. Before we get into it, let’s see how much you know about makeup.